Chapter 13: Advanced Training

Now that you and your puppy have established a strong bond of trust and unconditional love and have mastered basic obedience skills, you can begin working on some advanced training, which can be as challenging as it is fun. Most advanced training exercises are a continuation of basic obedience exercises. In advanced training, you are simply asking more from your dog in distracting situations as he matures emotionally.

In the beginning, when your puppy was first learning, you asked him to learn behaviors in an environment that was mostly free of distractions, such as your living room or a quiet backyard. Most puppies and adult dogs are relatively easy to teach in distraction-free environments. To keep progressing, as your puppy matures into an adolescent and then an adult dog, you want to continue pushing the envelope by adding new distractions and new environments, as well as teaching the Stay command and building the duration of time that your puppy remains in the Stay position.

Not only does advanced work help to continue strengthening the human–canine relationship, it helps a dog learn emotional control. As previously mentioned, if you make training a “game” rather than a series of rigid, boring mechanical exercises, dogs learn that training is fun. In fact, most dogs don’t even realize they are learning because they are having so much fun. That translates into a dog who thinks coming when called, or any other behavior, is great fun. Advanced training also helps dogs learn to control their impulses while feeling good about themselves, and that’s what training is all about.

The Wait exercise forms the basis of the Stay command.

Stay

As mentioned previously, the Wait game is ideal for young puppies because most puppies are not physically or emotionally mature enough to handle a Stay command until they are about six, seven, or even twelve months old. It's fabulous that your four-month-old puppy can do a Stay while waiting for his food bowl in a quiet kitchen. However, it is unrealistic to think he can do a Sit/Stay or Down/Stay—or even just a Stay—while you are at the veterinarian’s office or an outdoor café or when company arrives.

Staying in place, whether doing a Sit, Down, or Stand, takes a certain amount of emotional maturity. One trainer compared it to taking a child to Disneyland and expecting him to do algorithms. Never going to happen! The age at which a dog is emotionally mature enough to maintain a Stay no matter what else is going on around him depends on his breed, temperament, and personality. Some dogs can maintain a lengthy Stay at one year of age; others can still barely contain themselves at two years of age. By starting the Stay exercise too soon, rushing the process, or using rough physical or harsh verbal corrections, you run the risk of creating lifelong problems with the Stay command by putting too much emotional pressure and stress on a young dog.

To a large degree, a lot will depend on your training, too. Consider how often you train, how consistent you are with your commands, and how much you ask of your dog. For example, if you tell him to stay, yet he chooses to wander off, and you ignore him, he will quickly learn that “Stay” means nothing. Equally important, if you ask him to stay in a very distracting situation—a situation that is beyond his emotional maturity—you set him up to fail, which is neither fair nor fun. Your job is to help him learn in a fair, humane, and fun manner.

Before starting, let’s review some important points for success.

Every behavior you teach should be taught up close, within a few feet of your dog. Once your dog understands and can do the behavior with 100-percent compliance at a 3-foot distance, only then should you begin adding distance or distractions. If your dog cannot sit, lie down, or stay 100 percent of the time while 3 feet away from you, how can you expect him to sit, lie down, or come from 20 feet away amid high-level distractions (think squirrels, cats, or tennis balls)?

Dogs, especially puppies and adolescents, are not always in control of themselves. Short attention spans, hormones, frenzied energy, and canine adolescence are at odds with your training success. Help your dog learn by working and progressing within his emotional limitations, teaching him by always setting him up to succeed.

When releasing your dog from a Stay, be it a Sit/Stay, Down/Stay, or Stand/Stay, do so in a calm manner. If you go crazy and hoot and holler and do a crazy dance, your dog will think getting up is the best part of the exercise, which it is not.

Because Stay is a static exercise, many dogs—especially young puppies—find it stressful and can quickly become bored or stressed. Remember that training, be it obedience or trick training, is all about fun. It's not a test of authority over your dog. If you find yourself digging a hole—stop digging. Take a deep breath and play with your dog, toss his ball, have a quick game of tug, or do whatever you need to do to get yourself and your puppy happy and eager to train again.

If you have played the Wait game with your puppy, teaching a more advanced Stay command is relatively easy because you’re simply building upon that game. It’s worth noting that your dog will learn faster if you change only one criterion at a time. For example, if you are adding a new distraction, such as more toys or other dogs or a new location, do not also increase the duration at the same time. Likewise, if you are adding distance, do not add in a new distraction or increase the duration at the same time. If you are asking your dog to stay while a cat sits on a nearby fence or squirrels scurry around, keep the duration short.

Be proactive by reinforcing your dog’s successes with yummy treats, his favorite toy, or any other reinforcement that he loves. Give your dog lots of reasons to want to continue learning and trying his hardest. Do not wait until he makes a mistake and then go back and attempt to correct the mistake. This can be very deflating to a dog's ego and can dampen his attitude and willingness to work. Always work within your dog’s emotional threshold and ability, but don't baby him to the point that he never progresses.

Is your puppy ready to practice off leash?

Off-Leash, Long-Lines, and Coming When Called

Have you ever been to a dog show or watched one on television and seen how the dogs only have eyes for their handlers? Dogs staring adoringly at their handlers, waiting to see what is going to happen next? Maybe it is an agility, herding, or obedience trial. Maybe it’s flyball or dock diving. Would you give your right arm (figuratively speaking) to get that type of focus and attention from your dog? It’s 100-percent achievable for most dogs.

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Some breeds, particularly Nordic breeds like the Shiba Inu, are never reliable off leash. Although not bred to run like the Siberian Husky, the Shiba remains fairly unimpressed by formal commands (like Come).

Granted, some breeds seem to naturally want to hang around their owners more than others do. Terriers, for example, were bred to work independently of their owners, so getting one to focus and stay close to you can take some doing. Also, some dogs may never be 100- percent reliable off leash. Think Siberian Husky, Shiba Inu, Whippet. The goal, however, is to work toward 100-percent reliability because one day calling your dog to come may save his life.

We discussed that being on or off leash should not be a condition of your puppy’s working or wanting to be with you. When done correctly, puppies grow into adult dogs who continue to think that being off leash means something fabulous is going to happen. By instilling this behavior in your puppy while he is young and impressionable, transitioning to working off leash in new, strange, or distracting environments will be much easier.

This is where long-lines come in handy. Trainers vary in their opinions when it comes to training dogs on long-lines. A recall in your backyard is not the same as a recall at a dog park or while hiking in the woods or walking on the beach. Where owners often go wrong is by allowing their dogs off leash too soon in distracting or unfamiliar environments. No doubt you have seen owners who have their dogs off leash at dog parks or beaches. However, unless you are 100-percent certain your dog will come amid chaotic distractions, he should never be off leash. The risk of him running off and becoming injured or lost is too high.

Before taking him off leash at the neighborhood park or hiking on a trail, you need hundreds, if not thousands, of successful recalls amid controlled distractions, such as at a dog class or in a fenced yard with squirrels scurrying around and/or birds flying overhead. Until then, keep him safe by keeping him on a leash or long line.

Be realistic about your environment and the level of distractions. Having your dog drag a long line allows you to keep him safe and manage his environment so that he isn’t allowed to develop bad habits, such as like running away from you. If your dog is dragging a leash or long line each and every time he goes outside with you, there will be no need for you to chase him down (and chasing him is never a good idea!). A long line gives your puppy or adult dog the freedom to make choices about his behavior while enabling you to restrict his ability to run away from you.

If he starts to wander off, you simply step on the long line and say, “I've got you!” Then do something silly to make him come back to you. Kneel on or tap the ground and encourage him to come to you. Stand on one leg, hop up and down, spin in circles—do whatever goofy behaviors you need to do to get your dog’s focus and attention back on you. When he runs to you, praise and reward. If necessary, reel him with the long line and say, “There’s my boy!”

It takes thousands of successful Recalls before your dog can be given complete freedom to run in a public place.

Coming to you when called is the single most important command you can teach your dog, and you should start right away instilling the behavior as quickly and creatively as possible. The fun Recall games you’ve begun playing with your puppy will set the foundation for a first-class Recall as he grows and matures. By continuing with these fun games while gradually adding distractions along the way and reinforcing Come with treats or a favorite toy, your puppy will continue to think that running to you as fast as his legs will carry him is more fun than anything else in his world. And that’s what you want.

Like the Stay command, you gradually begin adding distractions to the Recall command. For example, play chase Recall games in the backyard, where there are interesting smells or a few toys lying around. Maybe have a friend sitting in the yard or a few kids playing and chattering away. Set your dog up to succeed by using high-value reinforcements, such as steak, chicken, or that favorite toy. If he ignores a squirrel and comes darting over to you, you had better reward with 24-karat gold (i.e., cheddar cheese, boiled liver, heart, hot dog).

On the other hand, if your dog has a difficult time focusing, perhaps you increased the distractions too quickly. Try playing in a less distracting environment or trying harder to make yourself more exciting than the distractions. The long-term goal is for your dog to be able to focus on you despite enticing distractions.

Formal Training and Obedience

A lot of owners want to know when they should start “formal training” with their puppies. While the terms “formal” and “informal” training are tossed around a lot, the only difference is the degree of precision. Formal training is often, although incorrectly, categorized as all work and no play. We’ve shown you that all training should be fun regardless of whether you choose to call it “formal” or “informal.” Again, the only difference is precision.

Most obedience competitors are looking for precision—a perfect, straight, fast Sit in front—but most canine sports, such as agility, herding, and flyball, do not require the precision of obedience competitions. Generally speaking, most dog owners are not concerned about precision. They are happy if their dog sits or comes on the first command. The goal is for your puppy to grow into a well-adjusted, happy adult dog who is eager to focus on you and execute a variety of commands in various and frequently distracting situations.

To be perfectly redundant (again!), keep training fun. Avoid getting bogged down in the formal-versus-informal terminology. For example, while working on Sit, rather than doing eight boring Sits in a row, mix it up. Get your puppy tugging, then quickly snatch the toy and tell him to sit. When he sits, praise with “Good sit!” (If your puppy is still learning the Sit, lure him into a Sit until he understands the command.) Toss the toy behind him and release him to go “Get it.” When he does so, run in the opposite direction, calling his name enthusiastically and encouraging him to chase you. Praise him for coming. Tug some more, then do a spin or twist, and then ask him to sit. Praise with “Good sit!” While he is sitting, take the toy, tell him to wait or stay, and then release him and ask him to jump up and “Get it!” Play some more, then do another Sit. Snatch the toy, toss it between your legs, and gently push your dog between your legs, as you tell him “Get it!” Tug some more. Toss the toy a few feet as you both run for it. End the training session with some more play and a potpourri of hugs and kisses.

Adding Distractions

Categorize distractions by various degrees. This varies from dog to dog, depending on temperament and personality. For example, a toy on the floor may be a minor distraction—say, a 2 on a scale of 1 to 10—for a Basset Hound, but a 9.5 for a Border Collie or another toy-crazy dog. Some dogs are super friendly and can’t resist any friend who might appear, so that would probably be an 8 in terms of distractions for such dogs. A cat sitting on a fence might be a major distraction—a 10 on that same scale—for a sight-sensitive coursing, herding, or terrier breed, but not a big deal for a Newfoundland. Water, such as a kiddie pool, sprinkler, or even a puddle, might not be a distraction for a Chihuahua, but it will likely ping the scale at 10 for that Newfy or a water-loving retriever.

Whether you are teaching fun Recalls, Sits, Downs, Stays, or tricks, as your dog becomes more proficient and reliable, begin increasing the distractions, but never progress to more difficult distractions until your dog is working reliably with low-level distractions. If, for example, your dog is not chasing you (i.e., coming when called) or playing or staying with you, try working in a less distracting environment. You could also stay closer to your dog when he does chase you, or offer more appealing rewards, such as tastier treats or a higher value toy. Manage your dog’s environment so that you set him up to succeed, thereby always reinforcing him for doing the right thing.