Chapter 7: Puppy School

Training puppies is great fun because they are cute, irresistible, and free (for now) of any bad habits; they are clean slates that you can mold into astonishing canine companions. All puppies need and deserve basic obedience training and puppy manners, as well as direction and guidance. Of course, all puppies have different temperaments and personalities and must be treated as such. So how do you choose the best training method for your puppy?

Myriad training methods exist, and it is safe to say that no one training technique works for every dog. Some puppies are confident, bold, cheeky, tenacious, or determined. They challenge their owners at every opportunity and can take a lot of energy to train. Other puppies are fearful, shy, timid, or uncertain, and they challenge you in different ways.

Some puppies are proverbial square pegs trying to fit into round holes. Terriers do not work like German Shepherd Dogs. Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers do not behave like Border Collies, nor do Miniature Schnauzers respond like Bichon Frises, and so on. What works for an Australian Shepherd may not work for a Belgian Tervuren, even though both are herding breeds. Some spaniels and setters can be overly sensitive, while some retrievers are at the opposite end—overly insensitive. Some terriers and hounds are bred to work independently of their owners; therefore, getting them to interact with their owners can be more challenging.

Sometimes, a puppy needs his owners to be calm because too much excitement may stimulate a puppy and stir up frenzied energy beyond his capacity to learn. Other puppies have a “must I wag my tail today?” attitude and need upbeat, energetic owners who can motivate them and pump them full of enthusiasm. Some puppies (and owners!) need their egos stroked to build confidence and encouragement so they can make decisions without constant handholding.

Before jumping into training, it is important to recognize that puppies and adult dogs learn through repetition, consistency, reinforcement, and, of course, their successes and failures. That almost sounds simplistic, doesn’t it? Yet, with dog training, you will find countless methods of getting from point A to point B.

Everyone, from your neighbor to your best friend to your in-laws, is an expert at dog training. It matters not one iota that their dogs are out of control! Some of them may not even own a dog. A lot of owners turn to the Internet for advice on everything from house-training to solving aggression problems. All of this “advice” can cause owners and their puppies an inordinate amount of frustration.

This chapter is not intended to present you with one absolute method of training because many effective training methods exist. Rather, it is intended to point out the general principles that form the cornerstone of all good training.

Why versus How

Early European ethologists and American comparative psychologists defined animal behavior, but the types of behavior they studied were different. Observing animals in natural habitats, the ethologists focused primarily on the function and evolution of a particular habit. Because they believed that behaviors evolved to suit the environment, ethologists asked the fundamental question, “Why is this animal doing that?”

On the other hand, American psychologists, such as Edward Thorndike, a pioneer of trial-and-error learning (now known as operant conditioning), and B.F. Skinner, the “grandfather” of operant conditioning, focused on observable, quantifiable patterns of behavior in a laboratory environment. More interested in how an animal’s behavior developed, these psychologists asked questions about the causes that elicited certain behaviors. For them, instinct and innate tendencies were irrelevant.

A period of extreme divergence and discussion about inherited versus acquired behaviors ensued, hence the famous “nature versus nurture” debate. Over time, the distinction has blurred, and today’s trainers recognize that most behaviors develop under the combined influence of hereditary and environmental factors. The theories forged by early pioneers still govern the scientific principles of learning, with each having its place in a dog owner’s training toolbox.

Learning Theory Basics

Canine learning theory is multifaceted and certainly goes well beyond the scope of this chapter. Consider that some behaviorists have PhDs in animal behavior! That said, understanding the basics and having an overview of how dogs learn will help you make smart decisions about your puppy’s training and future behavior.

Two theories govern the scientific principles of learning: classical conditioning and operant conditioning. Without delving too deeply into the complexities of each, here are the basics.

Classical Conditioning

Classical conditioning is creating an association between two stimuli. Russian scientist Ivan Pavlov, best known for his drooling dog, first described the most notable example of classical conditioning in the early 1900s, when he discovered that a dog salivates at the anticipation of food. In his well-known experiment, Pavlov rang a bell immediately before feeding a dog and found that, in time, the dog would salivate at the sound of the bell alone. The dog had no control over this reflex.

Salivating at the sound of the bell became a conditioned reflex.

People experience the same phenomenon. Does the thought of a lemon make your mouth tingle? If you have ever experienced food poisoning, you know that the sight of the offending food can now make you nauseated. These are examples of classical conditioning or establishing a conditioned reflex. You are responding reflexively or automatically. You can’t make yourself salivate, at least not without thinking about food.

In retrospect, Pavlov’s thesis seems so simple. He took something that had absolutely no meaning to the dog (the bell ringing) and paired it with something good and desirable (the food) over and over and over again until the dog began to equate the meaningless thing (the bell) to the really good thing (the food).

If your puppy has already learned different behaviors, maybe you are connecting the dots, seeing the connection, and realizing how simple behaviors, be they wanted or unwanted, can be trained. For instance, does your dog go crazy when you put on your shoes or coat? If so, he has no doubt associated your shoes or jacket with something fun—maybe a hike in the woods, a game of fetch, or a ride in the car. Does he pace and whine and pester you the closer it gets to his dinnertime? Perhaps, contrary to academic pessimists, he can tell time!

Classical conditioning works both ways. It can work against you and your puppy because it is not exclusive to positive behaviors; in fact, research indicates that unpleasant experiences are conditioned much more quickly than pleasant ones. A dog may become conditioned to react fearfully after just one exposure. For instance, a puppy who has had a bad experience following a ride in the car, such as being abandoned at a shelter or experiencing a painful event at the veterinarian’s office, may run and hide when you grab your car keys. If going for a walk involved being jerked around or scolded on leash, the sight of a leash may cause him anxiety. The sound of thunder may paralyze a dog with fear or send him into a frenzy of barking, cowering, pacing, or destructive behavior. A noise-phobic dog may start to shake long before he hears the thunder.

The dog’s fear response prevents him from thinking or performing a previously learned behavior, such as Sit, Down, or Come. Think of something that terrifies you. Maybe it is snakes or spiders or flying in an airplane or getting an injection. The presence of a snake, for example, may be so terrifying to you that you are paralyzed by fear, unable to remember something as simple as your telephone number or street address. Your fear overrides your ability to think.

The same concept applies to dogs. A dog who is fearful is not in a state to learn anything or even remember previously learned behaviors. It is important to recognize that the dog is not dumb, willfully disobedient, or stubborn. Regardless of how much you sweet-talk him or how many treats you offer, the conditioned fear response will override any previously learned behavior.

If you reward your dog for a behavior, he will repeat it. This Chinese Crested stands for tasty treats.

Operant Conditioning

In contrast to classical conditioning, operant conditioning capitalizes on the principle that a dog (or any animal) is likely to repeat a behavior that is reinforced. Think of it as a cause and effect relationship in which the dog performs a behavior, such as sitting, on his own and is rewarded with something positive, usually a tasty tidbit. The dog quickly learns that his own behavior (i.e., sitting) causes a reward (tasty treat or favorite toy) to appear. If a dog jumps on his owner and is ignored (i.e., no treats, no physical or verbal reward), the dog quickly learns that that behavior (jumping) pays no dividends.

Dogs, at least the really smart ones, tend to drop a behavior that reaps them no reward. Remember, dogs do what is most reinforcing. Why would a dog waste his time on something that gains him nothing? Here’s another example: you are eating dinner while your dog sits patiently with pleading eyes. You ignore him. He sits up on his hind legs. You ignore him. He starts whining. You cave and give him a tidbit of food. Your dog just learned that he could offer behaviors (sitting, sitting up, whining) until he hit on the behavior that paid off in treats (this is called being “operant.”)

The basic principles of operant conditioning are:

•A behavior that is rewarded will repeat itself.

•A behavior that is ignored will go away.

The behavior you reward is the behavior you get, which is not necessarily the behavior you want.

Operant conditioning presents consequences for a dog’s actions, teaching him to think about his choices and choose the one that gets him a reward (e.g., treats). In the simplest of terms, the essence of operant conditioning is that a dog (or any animal) is required to perform a behavior to receive a reward.

The principle that behavior is driven by consequences was first described by Edward Thorndike in the early 1900s. Originally referred to as Thorndike’s Law of Effect, Thorndike’s basic notion is that a behavior that is reinforced will increase in frequency, while a behavior that results in an unpleasant outcome will be avoided by the animal in the future. B.F. Skinner greatly advanced the concept that reinforcement builds behavior.

Say Good-bye to Old-Style Training

Some trainers still employ archaic training methods—the old pop-and jerk training that involved a choke chain, force, and total domination of the dog. While these methods appear to provide a quick resolution of “bad” behaviors, they often come at a hefty price that includes stifling a puppy’s personality as well as his willingness and desire to please. Be smart. Stick with positive training methods. You and your puppy will be a lot happier!

The Tricky Part

Here is where it can get a bit confusing because in almost every situation, classical conditioning will override operant conditioning. When a dog is stressed from fear, for example, classical conditioning will have a more powerful influence over his behavior than anything he learned through operant conditioning. Think how quickly a dog—even one who is well trained—can revert to near-feral behavior when he becomes lost or how fearful a dog becomes when he is placed in a stressful environment, such as a shelter. If a dog is truly terrified, you can dangle a chunk of steak in front of his nose and it won’t make one bit of difference. The conditioned fear response will overpower any previously learned operant conditioning. A dog can’t eat and digest and have adrenalin coursing through his system at the same time.

That said, classical conditioning can be used to treat a fear or phobia that has already developed, such as fear of entering a new building, riding in a car, coming into contact other animals or strange people, thunderstorms, and so forth. Many trainers use a combination of classical and operant conditioning. While some trainers claim to be true operant-conditioning trainers, meaning that they use no luring or physical manipulation, most trainers employ some degree of luring and/or physical manipulation in their programs. And why not? Training is not about one training strategy versus another. The approach that works best depends on the type of behavior that you are trying to teach or reinforce. It is about what works and doesn’t work for you, your puppy, and his individual temperament and personality.

Reward your puppy with his favorite toy whenever he comes to you. This Vizsla puppy will come to his owner for a quick game of catch.

Positive and Reward-Based Training

Dog training has come a long way in the last twenty years. Gone are the days when most trainers advocated the benefits of old-style pop-and-jerk-type training (also known as training through corrections). The talk these days is all about positive (and purely positive) motivation. Ideally, all of your puppy training should be through positive motivation and rewards. The goal is to instill all of the behaviors you want your puppy to have as an adult dog in a fun and humane manner. Unless your puppy is biting you or another animal, there should be no need for corrections. After all, a puppy has not yet learned to come when called, stay, or be quiet. The golden rule of dog training is that you never, ever correct a puppy or adult dog who has not yet learned a behavior. Correcting him for something he has not yet learned is unfair and will damage the human–canine bond.

Positive reinforcement simply means adding something positive, such as a treat or praise, to increase the likelihood that a behavior will reoccur. For instance, if you reward your puppy with a favorite treat each and every time he comes to you, you greatly increase the odds of his repeating that particular behavior. If you repeat this routine 7,200 times in your puppy’s first year of life, he will grow into an adult dog who views coming to you as a positive experience. This is the essence of positive reinforcement: when a dog does something that you like, he instantly should get something that he likes (treat, toy, game of tug) so he will want to repeat the behavior.

If, on the other hand, your puppy comes to you when called, and you then correct him for something he did ten minutes ago, it will not be a positive experience for him. Your dog will be thinking, “She yelled at me the last time she called me, so I don’t think I’ll do that again!” Likewise, if you call your puppy to you and then do something that he finds objectionable, such as clip his nails or bathe him, he will quickly learn that responding to your command is not fun or rewarding.

Dogs are learning every single minute of the day, whether you pay attention to them or not. If allowed to do so, they will always choose what is most rewarding to them. For some dogs, chasing a cat or squirrel (or digging, chewing, barking, raiding trash cans, jumping on people, or chasing a delivery person) is inherently self-rewarding. Managing your puppy’s environment and not allowing him to get himself into trouble will help you reinforce the behaviors that you want while minimizing his opportunities to engage in self-reinforcing behaviors.

You’ll feel very proud every time your puppy runs to you when he hears you say, “Ringo, come!”

Purely Positive Training

The essence behind purely positive training is that everything is positive and a dog is never, ever corrected, regardless of the circumstances. That sounds wonderful, right? We all want our puppies to grow into adult dogs who never misbehave or get into trouble or embarrass us in public. Alas, if you are looking to avoid public humiliation, you should have invested in an aquarium, not gotten a dog.

A purely positive trainer never use corrections. If he or she tells a trained dog (emphasis on trained) to come, and the dog chooses to ignore the command, the trainer waits until the dog does the command or any other command that he or she can reward, or the trainer distracts the dog with a different command.

Purely positive training has been compared to raising kids without ever telling them “No” or setting any boundaries. We all know what that looks and sounds like in the grocery store! While this type of dog training might look good on paper, it has a few flaws, and here is why: dogs need boundaries. They understand boundaries. They are happy when they have rules. Rules give a dog freedom—freedom to be off leash in a safe situation, freedom to be loose in the house, freedom to play with his canine buddies. Dogs without boundaries grow into unruly ruffians that your family and friends secretly dislike.

On the other hand, purely positive training is great for puppies or adult dogs who have been trained harshly in the past because it provides a safe way to let them know that the rules have changed and that training is fun and, more importantly, safe.

The key difference between purely positive and reward-based training is the corrections, or the lack of corrections. This is why and where many trainers part company.

The philosophy behind most positive motivation/reinforcement training is that when a trained dog (again, emphasis on trained) thoroughly understands a command, such as Down, and chooses to ignore the command, the trainer feels that a correction is warranted. Rules are black and white, and if a trained dog willfully ignores a command, there are consequences. The consequences depend on the dog’s temperament and personality and can range from a mild “Aahhhhh” to a stronger “Knock it off!”

Some trainers advocate a “time out”—which is taking the dog away from the game or job that he loves, such as tugging or retrieving. Other trainers advocate physical corrections, but that is a dicey topic because what constitutes a physical correction varies. Again, it’s worth reiterating that we are talking about trained dogs.

Problems arise with purely positive training because a lot of dogs have their own agendas, which don’t necessarily include their owners. As a result, purely positive training, while handy in many situations, may not serve you well in all instances. For example, most hounds will find chasing a deer or rabbit more rewarding than any treat you can offer. Most terriers find unearthing a rodent more exciting than a piece of steak. Most herding breeds would rather chase anything that runs because it is more rewarding and entertaining than a tidbit of cheese. So if you ask your dog to sit but he decides instead to chase a deer or rabbit or paper bag blowing in the wind, purely positive training provides no consequences for his actions. A puppy, as he grows into an adult dog, needs to understand that “Sit” means he has to sit—even if he wants to run after a leaf fluttering in the wind.

A Few Words about Corrections

Corrections are not the evil affair that many trainers and owners make them out to be. A correction is simply taking an incorrect behavior and making it right. A correction should never mean that a dog is bad—only that he made the wrong choice. Again, it does not matter if you have a six-month-old puppy or a five-year-old dog—if you have not thoroughly taught a behavior, such as Come, then you cannot correct him for not coming. This point cannot be overemphasized. Unfair corrections can ruin a good puppy or adult dog and, in some instances, create aggression.

Clicker Training

Operant conditioning is closely associated with clicker training, which starts by first using classical conditioning to the sound of a clicker. The clicker, like Pavlov’s bell, must mean something to the dog before you can begin clicker training. Typically, a trainer clicks and then immediately delivers a tasty tidbit to the dog, and then repeats the process again and again—perhaps twenty-five or thirty times in rapid succession. Click, feed, wait a beat, click, feed, wait a beat, click, feed—always in that order. The click always comes first because you are classically conditioning the dog to respond to the sound of the clicker—just as Pavlov conditioned his dogs to respond to the bell. The technical term is creating a conditioned reinforcer by using classical conditioning.

In a relatively short time, the dog makes the positive association between the sound of the click and a yummy treat. The dog figures out that the clicking sound always means that a tasty tidbit is coming. In training terminology, this process is known as loading the clicker or powering up the clicker.

Once a dog connects the clicking noise (the conditioned reinforcer) with a food reward, you can use operant conditioning to teach everything from basic obedience commands to fun tricks by reinforcing any desired response that the dog offers.

This type of training has big advantages because the dog gets rewarded incrementally for figuring out what you want. In other words, the dog’s behavior makes the reward appear. Many dogs quickly become obsessed with trying to figure out what behavior will produce the click and subsequent tidbit of food. Eventually, the dog fires off a bunch of behaviors, and you mark (by clicking) and reinforce the behaviors you want. (Remember the begging dog at the table who offered behaviors until he found the behavior that paid off?)

Operant conditioning requires spot-on timing because the behavior you click is the behavior you teach, which, of course, requires you to pay close attention to what your dog is doing. If your timing is off, you are likely to click and inadvertently reward undesired behaviors. For instance, if you are teaching your puppy to sit and you click at the moment he paws your leg, you just taught him that pawing your leg is the behavior you want. If you are teaching him to stay and you click at the nanosecond he stands up, you just taught him that releasing himself from the Stay is the behavior you want.

In the beginning, until you get the mechanics of clicking and treating in sync, you might find it easier to start with teaching your puppy fun games, such as touching your hand, kissing your nose, or standing on a box. This helps you get the hang of clicking and rewarding and also helps teach your puppy that learning is fun. If you start with basic obedience commands, such as Sit or Down, you are likely to get caught up in getting it exactly right, and that probably won’t be as much fun for you or your puppy. All of the necessary and useful obedience commands will come later.

A Pinch of Both Methods

It is perfectly acceptable to use any combination of training that works for you and your dog, provided, of course, that the methods you choose are fun, fair, and humane. You can train by luring a dog into a Down, or you can strictly go the route of clicker training and operant conditioning. You can use food and toys along with physical and verbal praise. You can try purely positive training if that better suits you and your puppy. The bottom line is that the training method you choose—whether classical or operant conditioning, positive reinforcement or purely positive—is less important than consistency and balance.

Shaping

Shaping and clicker training, for the most part, go hand in hand, and shaping is another concept you are likely to encounter with operant conditioning. Key components of operant conditioning are shaping (a term coined by B.F. Skinner) and marking behaviors by rewarding small increments of a behavior that put the dog on the path to the desired behavior, without luring. True operant trainers never lure dogs into behaviors, feeling that any manipulation of the dog is a corruption of the learning process and doesn’t produce a dog who is predisposed to work for you. The key to operant conditioning is that the dog must think that performing a behavior is his idea—not yours—because the behavior must be spontaneously expressed and not elicited by a stimulus, as in classical conditioning. This creates a thinking dog: what do I have to do to get my owner to click and give me a yummy reward?”

That is all well and good, and in a perfect world shaping would be every owner's first choice. However, shaping a behavior can be lengthy and sometimes frustrating for some dogs because it requires a certain mental makeup and a willingness to think independently. Some dogs, for whatever reason, prefer to be shown what to do.

Shaping can be a chore for some dogs—occasionally even a stressful chore. You can almost see some dogs thinking, “Just show me what the heck you want!” But just because a puppy doesn’t grasp the concept of shaping doesn’t mean that he’s a dunce.

In these instances, many trainers use shaping along with some luring and showing the dog what is expected of him.

Once the dog catches on, it is important to drop the luring as soon as possible. The food as a lure needs to be weaned away relatively early in the training process; otherwise, you will have a dog who can’t perform a behavior without a piece of cookie in his face. As your puppy begins to understand what you want, you make the food a reward rather than a lure.

While owners of small dogs tend to become more lax about training their dogs, owners of large, powerful breeds, such as the American Staffordshire Terrier, must recognize that training is mandatory.

Why Training Is Important

Training is super important to your puppy because it teaches him how to live harmoniously in our world, as opposed to living in a cave like his wild ancestors did. While still in the whelping box, your puppy’s canine mom started teaching him some immediate manners such as how to play nice and not bite too hard, how to wait his turn, how to not be sassy, and how to handle praise and corrections. Now it is your responsibility to continue his schooling by teaching him how to walk nicely on leash, come when called, and wait his turn before heading out the door—and a potpourri of other important life skills.

Puppies who are taught to happily and eagerly respond to basic obedience commands grow into adult dogs who are fun to be around. No doubt their lives are better, too, because trained dogs tend to be included more in their families’ day-to-day adventures, be it car rides to pick up the kids, walks on the beach or around the lake, or just hanging out to watch TV. Having to holler at your dog or physically restrain or maneuver him is not fun, and it is hard work—especially if you own a powerful breed like an American Pit Bull Terrier, Doberman Pinscher, or German Shepherd Dog.

Motivating Your Puppy

Everything in dog training comes down to motivation, and motivation is all about finding the reinforcer/reward that your puppy wants. Like people, dogs need motivation and reinforcement. Think of it this way: would you clock eight hours a day at work if you didn’t get paid? If you stopped getting paid at noon, would you go back to work after lunch? If someone offered you five dollars to wash his or her car, would you do it? What if the person offered you one hundred dollars?

The same concept applies to puppies and adult dogs. To simplify, think of motivators as primary and secondary. A puppy’s primary motivator should always be you—pleasing you and working for you, for verbal and physical praise, for play, for fun, and for the love of working. He must enjoy being with you, and vice versa. He should see you as his leader. He should respect you but not fear you. (Lack of respect is one reason that many dogs do not do what is asked of them.) He should see you as someone who is important enough to issue commands.

Secondary motivators are simply extensions of yourself. They put a little extra “oomph” into training. Most often, but not always, food is an excellent motivator because most dogs will do backflips for chicken, steak, or cheese. Some dogs, however, aren’t all that turned on by food. A lot of Border Collies, for example, prefer balls and toys to food, and that’s OK, too.

Problems arise because not all owners are good motivators, and not all dogs want the same thing. Remember those self-rewarding behaviors previously discussed? Some dogs think that running away to play with other dogs, chasing the FedEx gal, fighting the neighbor’s Beagle through the fence, or ransacking trash cans is great fun. Unfortunately, those behaviors are at odds with your wanting him to learn to sit, lie down, and walk nicely on leash. The trick is finding out what, besides being with you, motivates your puppy (remember, if your puppy is not tuned in to you and excited and happy about being with you, the toys and food will not work).

Find out what your puppy responds to, what type of noise turns him on, which treats, toys, or games excite him. If your puppy has a thing for toys, count your blessings because then it is only a matter of finding that special toy that motivates him to work and play. Some dogs are manic about balls or tug toys. Some dogs like squeaky squirrels or fake rabbit fur. Some even go crazy over a piece of rubber hose. Some dogs love the water, so releasing them and rewarding them with a dip in a kiddie pool can work, too. Many dogs love food and go crazy over beef, liver, or cheese treats.

Interestingly, food has fallen out of favor with some trainers, but the food is not the problem. Some owners go wrong by allowing the food to become the primary motivator. Your puppy should come when called because he thinks you are the most fantastic and captivating person, not because you’re bribing him with a chunk of food or a favorite toy. The problem with luring and bribing is that when the food or toy is not forthcoming, many dogs have little or no interest in coming when called, sitting, lying down, walking nicely on leash, or anything whatsoever. That is why you must work hard to establish yourself as his primary motivator—to enthrall him with your voice and mannerisms, to be the most exciting person in his world.

Finding out what motivates your dog, and then using those things in your training sessions to generate his excitement and hold his attention is a giant piece of the puppy-training puzzle.

Once you have found what motivates your pup, use that toy or treat only for playing and training. You can even put a name to it, such as “Where’s your tuggie?” or “Get your Frisbee.”

It’s a Treat, Not a Meal

Soft foods work better as treats than hard, crunchy dog bones do. Ideally, the treat should be so tiny that the dog can just swallow it without chewing (or chew just once or twice). Standing around for twenty seconds crunching on a bone only serves to disrupt the dog’s focus and the momentum of fun and excitement. Use tiny pieces of food—about the size of a small pea. The goal is to motivate, engage, and reward your puppy—not fill him up with treats.

Be generous with your treats in the beginning, so your puppy understands that you “pay” well. Learn to toss food with precision, too. Not only does this teach your puppy to catch (a fun trick) and to watch you, it helps you quickly reward him when he is beyond your reach.

Keep Sessions Short

Puppies are individuals, and they learn at different rates. Some puppies become bored after a few repetitions. Others get frustrated because they are too young mentally to play certain games or learn specific exercises, such as the Stay command. Almost all puppies have short attention spans and tire quickly, both physically and mentally. Always play and train within your puppy’s individual physical and mental capabilities.

When playing and training basic obedience commands or fun tricks, it does not take long for your puppy to learn. Work for five minutes at a time, several times a day, and you will be surprised how much your puppy absorbs and learns in a short period of time. One trainer calls it “string cheese” training because multiple times a day she will take one piece of string cheese and cut it into small pieces. Then, she will do as many Sits or Downs or Recalls as possible using that one stick of cheese. Ideally, one stick of cheese should break into about fifteen tiny pieces, which means you can do five or six Recalls, three or four Downs, and a few Find-Me or Find-It games, all with one stick of cheese. When that stick of cheese is gone, you are done training for that session. Do this three or four times a day, and it won’t be long until your puppy will be able to do all kinds of fun tricks and commands.

The goal is to always quit while your puppy is still craving more playing and training. This ensures that he will be happy and excited to do it again. If you train for too long, your puppy is likely to shut down and will not be as eager to participate the next time.

Attention

If you do not have your puppy’s attention, you cannot teach him anything. Think how frustrating, if not downright annoying, it is when you are trying to discuss an important matter with someone who is mentally in another world or texting or keeping one eye on the television! You might as well be talking to the wall.

Puppies are no different, which is one of the most important reasons that you should start right away making yourself your puppy’s primary motivator. Sure, a lot of trainers thrust aside the idea of making yourself the center of your puppy’s universe, but without his undivided attention, attempting to train him is pointless. Without your puppy’s attention, he is likely to wander off and find his own fun. This causes owners a good deal of angst, and it’s one of the prime reasons that owners give up on training. “He doesn’t listen to anything I say!” or “He’s impossible to train!”—neither of which is true.

Attention is a learned behavior, and teaching it is like teaching any other command, be it Sit, Down, Stay, or Come. The not-so-good news is that it can be a lot of work—depending on your dog and his temperament and personality. Bulldogs, Bull Terriers, and Basset Hounds, for example, can take a lot more time and energy than Golden Retrievers, Australian Shepherds, and Border Collies. However, once you have gained his consistent attention, and once he is crazy about being with you and working for you, your relationship will flourish and you can teach your puppy just about anything!

You are not going to teach an attention cue or command. Instead, the goal is to keep your puppy’s attention on you, which means that you must be more exciting and stimulating than his surroundings—and there is a lot of competition out there. Focusing on you (i.e., paying attention) is going to become your puppy’s default behavior. If your puppy is with you, he should pay attention to you. Everywhere you go and in everything you do, your puppy should be conditioned to look to you for direction and guidance—as well as fun! As he grows and matures, you begin asking for longer periods of continuous attention. Doing so requires him to learn to ignore distractions.

In the beginning, when first working on attention, choose a place where there are few or no distractions, such as your backyard or living room. As your puppy progresses, you can include some minor distractions, such as placing a toy on the floor or having a friend or family member nearby. Gradually increase the number of distractions; work up to having another dog in the room, and then having a dog walking past you, and then working in a puppy class or on your sidewalk or in your front yard.

The more you reinforce your puppy’s attention, the faster he will learn. Eventually, he will focus on you despite other dogs and people, noises, smells, and, yes, even squirrels scurrying up trees.

Positive reinforcement motivates voluntary attention, and puppies who are motivated to pay attention to you do so because it is fun and because he gets a fun reward (e.g., a treat, toy, or verbal or physical praise). You give your puppy a reason why it is advantageous for him to pay attention to you. You want your puppy to be thinking, “Any second, my owner is going to throw my ball or toss a treat or take off running, so I better pay attention!”

Interactive play is great for teaching your puppy to focus on you. Puppies like movement, so while talking to your puppy in a happy voice, hop to the left, hop to the right, step back, spin in a circle, hop on one leg, or roll on the ground. Other times, stand still and whisper. See how softly you can talk while keeping his attention. The quieter your voice, the more intently he has to listen. Other times, talk in a high-pitched voice. Your puppy doesn’t understand the words, but he responds to your tone of voice.

If he looks away, quack like a duck, bark like a dog, or make silly noises. Do a crazy dance! Turn your back on your puppy so that he has to run around to the front of you to see your face. Ask him, “Where were you?” or say “There’s my silly boy!” If he doesn't run around to see your face, bend over and peek between your legs and say, “I see you!” Be spontaneous and enthusiastic. Be silly and animated. This will keep your puppy’s interest and focus on you.

The following fun game was developed by Sylvia Bishop, one of England’s top dog trainers, and helps teach your puppy to focus on you. Place a yummy treat in your mouth. Put your index fingers to your lips and ask him, “What's this?” When he looks at you, praise him with “Yes!” (or click if you are using a clicker) and reward him with the treat from your mouth. (Spitting the treat at your puppy can be fun—especially if he is proficient at catching.)

You can then begin incorporating “What's this?” into your Come command. As your puppy is running toward you, put your fingers to your lips and ask, “What's this?” Make the command fun and exciting, and your puppy will want to race to you to get his treat.

The Handy Treat

Stash tasty treats or your puppy’s favorite toy in your pocket, or have containers of food or toys strategically placed around the house or yard. This way, you always have a reward handy when your puppy does something clever. Surprise him by “finding” a tidbit or toy on a shelf or behind a planter. Ask him, “What’s this?” Have him do a quick Sit for a treat or a quick game of tug or retrieve.

Tone of Voice and Verbal Praise

Your tone of voice is your greatest motivator and training tool—more so than any treat or toy. What you say and how you say it can make all the difference. Do you want a puppy who is motivated to respond to you or one who lies there like a sack of potatoes? Or worse, one who wanders off to find his own fun? For example, if you say, “Bad dog!” in a stern voice, your puppy will most likely cower and run for cover. But if you say, “Who’s a baaaddd dog?” in a fun, happy, upbeat, you’re-my-crazy-little-puppy kind of way, the reaction will be much different.

Some dogs become happy and wag their tails when you speak to them in a normal tone of voice. Other dogs get excited or cock their heads at the sound of a high-pitched voice. Others strut around bursting with pride when you say, “Who’s an awesome dog?” Some dogs are more responsive to low, soothing tones—staring adoringly at you as they wait to see what's going to happen next. Harsh voices generally make most dogs cower and run for cover. If your voice and mannerisms are too bossy, some confident, assertive dogs will take offense and think, “Look how hard I can push back!”

No two puppies are alike. The type and quantity of praise required depend on the individual puppy’s personality and temperament. An excited or animated voice may work for a middle-of-the road dog, but a high-energy dog is frequently on the verge of being out of control. Generally speaking, calm verbal praise works well for a high-energy dog because just the tiniest bit of excitement in their owner’s voice causes them to become too revved up to concentrate on the task at hand.

Pay attention to the sound of your voice and how your puppy reacts. Is your voice happy? When your puppy retrieves a ball, does your voice squeal with excitement? “Look at you! Aren’t you clever?” At the veterinarian’s office, is your voice calm and reassuring? When you give the “Come” cue, does your voice motivate and encourage him? Are his ears and tail up? Is he pleased with himself? Or is he doing the dreaded belly crawl back to you? Do you dishearten him with your harsh, angry voice? Or bore him with a monotonous voice that drones on and on, regardless of his achievements?

When dogs hear a boring, repetitive tone of voice for every cue and all verbal praise, all of the words run together, and the dog isn’t able to decipher between commands, praise, and his owner’s tedious drone. Unless the owner animates his voice to motivate the dog, the dog will never get a sense of what behaviors his owner really likes.

You can learn a lot by recording yourself playing and interacting with your puppy. When you watch the video, you might be surprised at how you sound, what your puppy hears, and how he responds.

As previously mentioned, what you think of your puppy—from the words you use to describe him to the way you talk to him or pet him—is a reflection of your relationship. If you constantly put down your puppy by telling him (or other people) that he is dumb or useless, or if you are constantly annoyed or have no confidence in him, he will sense your disappointment. If your words are positive and uplifting, and you focus on and maximize his positive traits, he will sense that as well. Being with you will be fun and encouraging, and motivating him becomes much easier.

Physical Praise

Physical praise is a personal thing with dogs. Yes, it is a reward for a job well done, and it is also a great motivator, especially when combined with verbal praise, provided that your puppy likes it!

How much physical praise a puppy likes, needs, or can handle will vary from puppy to puppy. Some puppies love it; others simply dislike it. Some puppies like a little physical praise but they crumble if given too much. For some puppies, physical praise can be too stimulating and exciting. For many young puppies, the anticipation alone of physical praise is enough to send them into uncontrollable wiggles, unable to focus on the task at hand. If this is the case, modify your physical praise so it is calm and reassuring or eliminate it temporarily until your dog has matured and can handle small doses without losing control.

Some dogs enjoy physical interaction if they have a toy but dislike being stroked, patted, petted, or otherwise touched when they are working because it annoys them or distracts them. Such a dog usually just wants an enthusiastic “Good boy!” and a chance to get his toy or get on with his duties.

Some dogs dislike being patted on the head, which is what owners instinctively want to do. If this is the case with your dog, instead stroke his back or chest area lightly or scratch under his chin as you tell him that he is fantastic!

As with verbal praise, finding out what type of physical praise works best for your puppy involves reading his body language—and a bit of trial and error (and error and error). How does he react when you pat him on the shoulder and tell him he’s a rock star? Does he lean into you—happy, relaxed, panting, eyes open? Or does he lean away, trying to avoid physical contact?

At the risk of generalizing, Shelties and many other herding dogs are notorious for disliking physical praise and will usually pin back their ears, lower their heads, or avert their eyes. In these instances, verbal praise alone is your best bet, and that is perfectly acceptable. If you want to teach your dog to enjoy physical contact, teach it as a separate exercise and do it in a fun and humane manner. Proceed slowly and always work within your puppy’s threshold.

Timing Is Everything

Dog training is all about timing. Correct timing tells your puppy exactly which behavior you are rewarding. Poor timing—praise that is given too soon or too late—confuses puppies. Good timing can be a bit tricky, but with a bit of practice, it is a skill anyone can learn.

It also helps to look at it from your puppy’s perspective. What is he doing at the exact moment you are telling him he’s a good boy? Is it a behavior you want to reinforce? Remember, the behavior you reward is the behavior you reinforce, which may not necessarily be the behavior you want.

If, for example, you verbally reward your dog with “Good boy!” as he charges out the door, he will think that charging out the door is what you like, and he will keep doing it. If you give him a tasty tidbit each time he barks, he is pretty much guaranteed to bark all the time. If he jumps on you, and you say “Off,” yet you praise him while he is still jumping on you, you are reinforcing the behavior of jumping on you. Try to really pay attention to when you are praising (or clicking) and what behaviors you are intentionally or inadvertently reinforcing.

On the other hand, if your puppy comes tearing over to you, his tail and ears up, with an attitude that screams, “Here I am!” and you lavish him with kisses, treats and praise, he will think coming to you is fun, and that is definitely a behavior you want to reinforce.

Build a Foundation

Now that you understand the basics of how dogs learn and how to motivate your puppy to learn, you need to keep adding to your puppy’s foundation so he can grow into an adult dog who is well behaved and fun to be around.

Release Cue

Early on in your foundation work, you need to teach your puppy a release cue, such as “OK” or “Free.” A release cue tells your puppy that the training session or the behavior you are working on is over, and he can do as he likes. Well...maybe not run down the street or chase squirrels or harass the family cat, but he does not have to continue sitting or lying down when you give a release command.

If you do not have a clear release cue—a demarcation line that tells your puppy he is done working on a particular exercise—then he will either always be guessing when he can stop doing what you are asking him to door think that he can release himself from an exercise any ol’ time he feels like it.

If you teach your puppy from day one to continue doing what you ask him to do, such as a Sit, until you give him a release cue, he grow into an adult dog who is clear about his job. If you fail to teach him a release cue, and you allow him to get up from a Sit or Down anytime he feels like it, he will not understand why you are annoyed at him when he breaks his Stay.

Teaching a release cue is not difficult. First, pick the cue you want to use. A lot of people use “OK,” while others prefer “Free” because “OK” is used so frequently in day-to-day conversations. Have your puppy do a Sit or Down, and when you are ready to release him, tell him “OK” (or whatever word you are using). Some trainers like to include a tap on the dog’s shoulder while giving the release cue. This is an additional cue that the exercise is finished.

An important note: the release cue should be calm, not fun. If you do a crazy dance when you release your puppy, he will think the most fun part of the exercise is the release. Why would you want your puppy to think that the most fun part of the training/play session is when it is over?

Release Cue for Tugging

A separate type of release cue should be taught for tugging games. When your puppy is tugging, tell him, “Good tugging!” or “Pull” or “Get it.” This teaches him to associate the behavior with the command. By teaching him to tug, you can teach him to stop tugging with a “Give” or “Out” or “Drop it” or whatever words you choose.

Some tenacious puppies are more reluctant to give up a toy, and getting such a puppy to release it may take a bit of finesse on your part. If this is the case, do not continue tugging! This only encourages more tugging on the dog’s part, and you will not win a tugging match with an adult American Staffordshire Terrier, Rottweiler, or other strong breed.

For young puppies, you can (carefully!) stick your index finger between his cheek and molars and encourage him to open his mouth as you say “Give” or whatever cue you are using.

For larger puppies, or if you are uncomfortable sticking your finger in your puppy’s mouth, simply show him a different toy and encourage him to get it. When he lets go of the first toy, put your command to the behavior of releasing the toy. If you are using a clicker, click and reward immediately after he lets go of the first toy.

Teaching a release cue will help you remain in control of the situation. If you cannot get your puppy to give up the toy on command when he is playing, guess who is controlling the game? (It's not you!)

Teaching the Basic Commands

Basic obedience commands include Sit, Down, Come, and Stay. Ideally, all puppies should grow into well-mannered adult dogs who are able to perform these commands without fail and without a lot of fuss. Using what you have learned so far, teaching the basic commands is a piece of cake!

There are many possible methods to teach your puppy to sit. While you choose the one that best suits your puppy, he’ll likely just sit and wait.

Sit

Three options exist for teaching the Sit. The first is through strict operant conditioning, which says that you do not do anything to initiate the behavior. You shape the behavior, meaning that you can click for just a little movement toward a Sit, and you keep clicking for more progression toward a Sit, and then finally click for actually sitting. This is time consuming and frequently frustrating for owners (and puppies!) who have limited patience and just want to teach their puppies to sit.

The second option is that you can reward your puppy for sitting on his own. For instance, when you are playing, strolling around the yard, or just hanging out, and the puppy sits on his own, tell him “Good sit!” (or click) and reward. You praise and reward every behavior you want to reinforce, be it Sit, Down, Come, or Roll Over. This works well for some owners, especially those who are super observant and have good timing.

In the interest of expediency, a third option is to lure your puppy into a Sit using a treat in the following manner:

•Begin with your puppy on leash. This is especially helpful if your puppy, like most puppies, is easily distracted or tends to wander off.

•Start with your leash in one hand and a tasty tidbit in the other hand, with your puppy standing in front of or close to you, facing you.

•Hold the treat between your thumb and index finger.

•Show your puppy the treat, holding it close to and slightly above his nose.

As he raises his nose to take the treat, slowly move the treat in slightly upward and backward toward his tail, keeping the treat directly above his nose as he moves his head to follow the treat. (If he jumps up, the treat is too high. If he walks backward, the treat is too low.)

When you do this correctly, a puppy has no choice but to lower his rear end toward the ground. As his bottom touches the ground, tell him, “Good sit!” (or click) and reward with the treat. Release with your chosen release cue.

Repeat this exercise three or four times in succession, three or four times a day.

Once your puppy begins to understand the behavior, make the treat a reward rather than a lure. The puppy should now associate the cue “Sit” with the action of putting his bottom on the ground, so all you should have to do to get him to sit is use the verbal cue. As soon as he sits, give him his reward..

Keep the Down lesson positive and reassuring. This position is less natural to most dogs and may require some calm coaching.

Down

The same options that exist for the teaching the Sit exist for teaching the Down: you can shape small behaviors that move your dog closer to the final Down position, you can praise and reward your puppy each and every time he lies down on his own with “Good down!” (or click) and then reward, or you can show him what you want by luring him into a Down.

Hold a treat in one hand and kneel on the floor so that you are eye level with your puppy, with your puppy standing in front of you.

Let him sniff the treat.

Move the treat toward the floor, between his front feet. When done correctly, your puppy will plant his front feet and follow his body into the Down position as he follows the treat to the ground.

When his elbows and tummy are on the ground, calmly praise him with “Good down” (or click) and reward with the treat.

Be sure your puppy is completely in the Down position while you praise and reward, or you will be teaching him to associate the wrong behavior with the verbal cue.

Release with your chosen release cue.

Repeat the exercise three or four times in succession, three or four times a day.

The Wait Game

The Stay command is considered a static exercise, which is challenging for many dogs—especially young puppies—because they can quickly become bored or anxious. Most puppies are not physically or emotionally mature enough to handle a Stay command until they are about five to seven months old. By starting the Stay exercise too soon, rushing the process, or overcorrecting, you are putting too much pressure and stress on your puppy and can run the risk of creating lifelong problems with the Stay command. Instead, begin playing a fun version of the Stay, which is the Wait command.

This “game” to teach Wait was adapted from an exercise used by trainer and author Bobbie Anderson. Start by playing in an enclosed area, such as your living room, patio, or small fenced yard.

Stand next to your puppy (he can be sitting or standing) and hold his leash in one hand. (Always use a buckle collar, never a pinch collar or choke chain.) Have tasty treats handy in your pocket or a bait bag, or have his favorite toy ready.

Tell your puppy in a nice, fun voice, “Wait.”

With your free hand, toss his toy (or a treat) about 5 or 6 feet in front of him.

If he strains or jumps at the leash, which is highly probable, remind him in a nice, fun, playful voice “You have to wait! Don’t you cheat!” Be proactive and try to remind him before he starts pulling or straining on the leash (or at least pulling or straining uncontrollably).

When he is standing or sitting still (waiting) nicely for a few seconds, tell him “Get it” and give him some slack in the leash. Hold on to the leash and walk with him to prevent him from wandering or running off.

Once he gets the treat, back up so that you encourage him to come back to you (or bring the toy back, if you are using one).

If you are using a toy, encourage him to bring the toy back so that you can repeat the game by putting a command to it, such as “Bring it here.” Tap your legs or chest while giving the verbal cue to encourage the puppy to come back; moving backward will also help.

It won’t take long before your puppy realizes that bringing the toy back means he gets to continue playing. When you do the exercise properly, your puppy will soon think that waiting is a fun game. Eventually, the command morphs into Stay as your puppy matures physically and mentally and is able to hold his Wait for longer periods of time with low-level (and then high-level) distractions.

Here’s a good example of when that release cue will serve you well. If you put your puppy in a Sit to play this game, and he jumps up and out of his Sit, you can quietly and calmly replace him in the Sit, let him hold the position for a few seconds, and then give him the release cue. Never allowing a puppy to release himself from a command makes teaching the Stay much easier later on.

Always praise your puppy when he comes to you. This Samoyed puppy is expecting the usual good stuff when he gets to his owner—treats, praise, a fun game, and maybe even a hug.

Come to Me

Coming when called is a rudimentary skill that all puppies and adult dogs must learn. It is a simple exercise to teach, yet it is the one behavior that seems to cause owners a good deal of difficulty. “Why won’t my dog come when I call him?” is a complaint that trainers hear all the time. But why?

Where owners often make mistakes is by assuming that a puppy comes preprogrammed with a Come command. Unfortunately, you cannot simply say “Come” and expect a ten-week-old puppy, or any dog, to come to you. Your puppy has no idea what “Come” means. You first need to teach him that the Come cue means “Stop what you are doing and run back to me as fast as you can—right now!”

Another common error that owners make is to yell “Come” louder and louder when the puppy doesn't respond. When that doesn’t work—and it never does—owners resort to chasing their puppy while still yelling “Come!” The puppy starts to think that “Come” means “You chase me and I run. Yeah! Fun game!” Meanwhile, the owners eventually get fed up and start hollering angrily, “Come! Come here right now!”

Do you want a puppy who grows into an adult dog who comes reliably, willingly, and immediately upon hearing the “Come” command in any situation, such as at the park, at a friend's house, if he gets loose, and even when he is playing with his canine buddies? The following fun recall games will show you how to achieve this with your puppy—but first, some ground rules.

“Come” or whatever word you choose to mean “come to me”—be it “Come,” “Here,” or “Close”—must always be delivered in a positive manner. Call him to come to you for good things, never for reprimands. You cannot call him to you and correct him for peeing on the rug ten minutes ago or scold him for chewing your shoe or ransacking the trash.

If you call your puppy to you and then scold him, he will not want to come to you the next time you call him. If you call your puppy to you and he comes, you must always, always praise and reward. If you cannot do that, do not call your puppy. It is that basic, and there are no exceptions.

If your puppy doesn’t come to you, do not chase him—your puppy must always chase you. If you chase your puppy, he learns that “Come” means “I run, and you chase me!” While it might seem harmless to chase an eight-week-old puppy, it is not fun when you are twenty minutes late for work, and it’s not safe when he runs into traffic.

If you want a strong, reliable Come command, you need to instill the behavior when he is young and impressionable. A puppy who learns early on that Come is a fun game is more likely to develop a reliable response to the command. If he stays reliable with this behavior throughout his puppyhood, and you remain positive and enthusiastic each and every time he comes to you, you will have a strong and positive response to the command as he matures into an adult dog.

Find Me!

The Find Me game is a modified hide-and-seek game that capitalizes on a puppy’s natural chase instinct. You can play indoors or outdoors, but when playing outdoors, always play in an enclosed area so that your puppy can’t escape. Also, your puppy should be dragging his leash or a long line, which you can step on should he decide to run off and explore an enticing smell or bug or anything else he finds intriguing.

Start with a handful of tasty treats. Show your puppy the food and then toss a tidbit down the hall or across the room.

As your puppy runs to get the food, run in the opposite direction and either go into another room or hide behind a chair or a door.

Call your puppy’s name enthusiastically: “Ringo! Ringo! Ringo!”

When he finds you, shower him with praise—“Aren’t you smart! You found me!”—and a generous smattering of kisses and a tasty tidbit or a tug on his favorite toy.

In the beginning, your hiding spot should be somewhat obvious, making it easy for your puppy to succeed. As he becomes more enthusiastic and proficient, make your hiding spots more challenging.

When playing outdoors, wait until your puppy is distracted—sniffing the grass, eyeing a bird—and then take off running or duck behind a tree, shed, or whatever is nearby while saying your puppy’s name in a happy, enthusiastic tone. When he finds you, always shower him with praise and enthusiasm.

A variation is to have a friend or family member hold the puppy at one end of the house while you run to the other end while saying the puppy’s name enthusiastically. As you say his name, the person holding your puppy lets him go with the command “Find her (or him)!” or “Find your mommy (or daddy)!”

If your puppy is reluctant to run and find you, make your voice more inviting and exciting, make it easier for him to find you by letting him see you, or have the person holding your puppy run with him to find you. Most puppies will chase anyone who runs away from them, which explains why dogs love chasing fleeing children.

An alternative for very young or small puppies is to sit on the floor with another person and call the puppy back and forth between you. Once your puppy is comfortable with this game, gradually increase the distance until you are across the room and then eventually in another room.

Playing this fun, interactive game builds enthusiasm, develops your puppy’s personality, and builds an intense eagerness and desire for him to be with you. It helps puppies grow into adult dogs who are willing to climb or crawl over or go through anything to be with their owners. Remember to always progress at a rate that is comfortable for your puppy and his individual temperament.