Chapter 8: Grooming
Good nutrition is important for a shiny, healthy coat, and a puppy’s coat is a good guide to his overall health. For your puppy to look and feel his best—and not to mention strut his stuff as the most eye-catching pup on the block—he also needs regular grooming of his coat, nails, teeth, and skin. A well-conditioned and coiffed coat is a beautiful sight. No doubt it makes a puppy feel more comfortable, and it is less prone to mats, rashes, skin infections, and external parasites.
Grooming should be a regular part of your puppy’s routine, and puppyhood presents the perfect opportunity to introduce and establish that routine. If started early, when your puppy is still young and receptive to new experiences, grooming becomes an enjoyable part of his routine—just like eating, sleeping, and playing. If you are a bit lazy about it, grooming, especially bathing and nail trimming, can quickly become a nightmare for you and your dog!
Grooming goes beyond just keeping your puppy’s skin and coat in tip-top condition. Grooming is a social behavior of many animals, and studies indicate that grooming can provide environmental enrichment for dogs as well as other domestic pets. Maybe you have seen dogs grooming themselves as well as their canine or feline buddies. Equally important, grooming allows you to spend quality time with your puppy, which helps the natural bonding process and fosters a strong human–canine relationship.
The amount of grooming that your puppy requires depends largely on his breed. A longhaired Lhasa Apso or Samoyed, for instance, will require more time, energy, and attention than a short-coated Vizsla or Greyhound.
Coat Types and Textures
Just as the size and structure of dogs vary drastically, so too do their coats. A dog’s original function—the job for which he was originally bred—could dictate his coat color, length, abundance, and texture. A Curly-Coated Retriever, for example, has a mass of small, thick, tight curls that are water resistant and protect him in the “heaviest of cover and the iciest of waters,” according to the American Kennel Club’s breed standard. Can you imagine a dog with long, silky hair surviving the harsh, icy waters? Or an Alaskan Malamute with no undercoat surviving the freezing Arctic environment?
Coat type is an essential element of “breed type” in many dogs. The AKC standard describes a Golden Retriever’s “rich, lustrous golden of various shades,” which typifies the breed. Would you recognize a Golden Retriever as a Golden Retriever if his coat were black or liver like that of the Flat-Coated Retriever or in an array of colors like that of the Afghan Hound?
Some breeds have several coat varieties. The Dachshund, for example, is seen inthree varieties—smooth, wirehaired, and longhaired—while the Chihuahua has two varieties—long coated and smooth coated.
A few breeds have grooming requirements that are dictated by the breed standard, the most notable being the Poodle’s Continental clip, which comes from early attempts to protect the breed’s “action parts” from freezing waters. (Yes, the Poodle was once a great retrieving breed.) You are not likely to see this type of grooming on dogs other than show dogs, as it is labor intensive.
Long- or Drop-Coated Breeds
Long- or drop-coated breeds, such as the Maltese, Yorkshire Terrier, and Afghan Hound, require special attention because their hair drapes down their bodies nearly or all the way to the ground. Keeping up appearances with this type of breed requires extra commitment. The hair is highly susceptible to damage and breakage caused by harsh shampoos, excessive blow drying, and exposure to environmental elements. Every aspect of care, from brushing and bathing to housing, requires special attention in order to maintain these sensitive yet exquisite coats, which is the primary reason that many owners opt to pay professional groomers.
Smooth-Coated Breeds
A smooth coat tends to lie flat and close to the body. Smooth-coated breeds can be either single coated or double coated. The smooth-coated Border Collie, smooth Collie, and Smooth Coat Chihuahua, for example, have undercoats, while the Vizsla has no undercoat.
Smooth-coated breeds are often referred to as “wash and wear” breeds, but they too require bathing and grooming to remove dead hair and debris.
Double-Coated Breeds
Most breeds have two coats, which can usually stand up to a bit more abuse around the house and in the yard than can their silky -coated counterparts. However, they still require regular grooming.
Referred to as a double-coated, these dogs have an undercoat that is usually short, soft, and dense—acting as a protective blanket against water and the elements—and an outer coat or top coat that is generally longer. The undercoat sometimes acts as a support for the top coat, which varies in texture depending on the breed. The corded coat of the Hungarian Puli, the shaggy coat of the Old English Sheepdog, and the wiry coat of the Sealyham Terrier are just a few of the distinctive yet different double coats.
If not regularly groomed out, the undercoat gets thick and matted and can be extremely uncomfortable for the dog. Double-coated dogs shed—often a lot. The amount of shedding, which is a natural process in which strands of hair die, fall out, and are replaced by new hairs, varies according to the dog, the season, and the climatic conditions. Australian Shepherds, for example, shed heavily in the spring or early summer when they tend to “blow coat.”
The Maltese always has a single coat, except when he’s wearing a jacket!
Single-Coated Breeds
Single-coated breeds have no undercoat, but they still require regular grooming to keep their coats in tip-top condition. Interestingly, it is not only smooth-coated breeds, such as the Italian Greyhound, that have single coats. The long, silky –coat of the Maltese and the thickly planted coat of the Portuguese Water Dog are both single coats, yet they could not be more different.
Rough-Coated Breeds
Some breeds are considered rough coated, but that is a bit misleading because they are not always rough or harsh to the touch. The Border Collie’s rough coat variety, for example, is medium to long with a flat to slightly wavy texture. Likewise, the Chow Chow and the Collie, both double-coated, thick-coated breeds, have rough-coated varieties.
The term rough, however, is more commonly used to describe the coats of some terriers, such as the Wire Fox Terrier and Scottish Terrier, as well as the coats of some gun dogs, such as the Wirehaired Pointing Griffon and Spinone Italiano.
Hairless Breeds
A few hairless breeds exist, including the Chinese Crested and Xoloitzcuintli, both recognized by the American Kennel Club, as well the lesser known Peruvian Inca Orchid and American Hairless Terrier. Both the Chinese Crested and Xolo are bred in hairless and coated varieties; in the Chinese Crested, the coated variety is called the Powderpuff.
Other Coat Types and Textures
Dog coats come in a variety of textures, too. One of the more common is the broken or crinkly coat that comprises a harsh, wiry outer coat and a soft, dense undercoat, such as those found on many terriers, including the Wire Fox Terrier. The texture is often described as resembling “coconut matting.”
Bristle coat is not a term you hear very often. It is used to describe broken- or wire-coated breeds, but according to experts, it more aptly describes the unique coat of the Chinese Shar-Pei, which is "short, bristly and stiff like a pig."
The term linty coat is used to describe a soft, downy coat, such as that of the Bedlington Terrier, and “pily coat” describes the peculiar crisp coat texture of the Dandie Dinmont Terrier and some Border Collies.
Some breeds, such as the Keeshond and Pomeranian, have coats consisting of long, heavy, harsh outer coats with hair standing out from the body, hence the catchy term used to describe them—“standoff” coats.
Mixed-Breed Coats
Mixed breeds (and so-called “designer dogs”) often have combination-type coats. The Goldendoodle, for example, which can be a groomer’s nightmare, has a soft undercoat similar to that of the Golden Retriever and a soft Poodle top coat, which is not unlike trying to comb through cotton. These coats require regular care and maintenance to prevent painful mats.
Good Equipment Is Worth the Money
Grooming your puppy, like anything else, is always easier when you have the proper equipment. Investing in good professional equipment will cost a bit more up front but will pay off in the long run. When properly cared for, quality grooming tools will last your dog’s lifetime. Grooming is quicker and easier when you have the right equipment handy.
The equipment you purchase will depend on your puppy’s breed as well as your budget. Grooming equipment is available at most pet-supply stores, at feed stores, and from online vendors. Dog-show vendors are an excellent source of good-quality equipment, and most are knowledgeable about the various breeds, coat types, and textures. A few of the must-haves for any dog include brushes, combs, nail clippers, and shampoos.
The slicker brush is ideal for removing dead undercoat from double-coated breeds like the Australian Shepherd. Don’t use too much pressure when grooming a puppy, as the pins of a slicker brush can scratch a puppy’s skin.
Brushes
Countless types of brushes—from boar bristle to pin to slicker—are available, and the equipment you choose depends largely on your dog’s coat type. Using the proper brush for your puppy’s coat means that your job will be much easier, and you will produce top-notch results. If you decide to have your puppy professionally groomed, you will still want a brush or two to maintain your dog’s coat between visits.
Boar bristle brushes are specialty brushes that are made from the hair of an adult boar. The quality of a brush depends on the quality of the natural bristle and which cut of bristle is used (first, second, or third cut). Boar bristle brushes are ideal for stimulating hair and skin follicles, distributing natural oils, and removing dander on smooth-coated or flat-coated breeds.
Pin brushes have metal pins in a rubber-cushioned base. The pins vary in their stiffness, flexibility, and length and are tailored to suit various canine coat types. Pin brushes work well on medium- to long-coated breeds, such as German Shepherds and Golden Retrievers.
Flexible pins are less likely to break the hair and are good for daily grooming. Some are better than others at removing undercoat. Brushes can range from five to more than sixty dollars. Top-quality pin brushes have stainless steel pins, gold-plated stainless steel pins, or brass tips for static-free brushing. Some pin brushes have wooden pins, which are the softest and gentlest for detangling hair. Run the brush down your bare arm, if it scratches you—it will scratch your puppy's skin, too. Be sure to buy a quality brush with a pin length suited to your dog'’ coat length.
Square or rectangular slicker brushes have fine, closely spaced metal bristles that work well for removing dead undercoat and debris from double-coated breeds. Many groomers discourage their use on the long hair of drop-coated breeds because they can cause breakage. Be careful not to brush the skin itself with a slicker brush because this can create nicks, scratches, and even welts—often referred to as “slicker burn.”
A rubber curry brush is ideal for smooth-coated breeds, such as Whippets, Greyhounds, Boxers, and Boston Terriers. It consists of a rubber pad with soft nubs that stimulate your puppy’s coat and skin and remove dirt, loose hair, and undercoat. It is ideal for use during bathing, too, because it helps distribute the shampoo deeply. When you use a curry, your puppy will think he is getting a massage!
Combs and Rakes
Combs are often used for “finishing” a coat but can also be used for removing undercoat and detangling knots. Combs come in a variety of sizes and types—single- or double-sided—and have teeth of varying length and spacing for different coat types and textures.
Flea combs have teeth that are positioned very close together to remove fleas and dander from of a dog’s coat. They come in metal or plastic with various handle sizes. They are designed for smooth-coated breeds but are not as efficient on medium- or long-coated breeds.
Grooming rakes, also referred to as undercoat rakes, look somewhat like miniature stiff-tined garden rakes. They are ideal for stripping out a dog’s undercoat. The newer versions have an anti-static coating on the pins to help them easily glide through a dog’s coat.
Look for a rake that has pins long enough for your dog’s coat. Pins that are too short won’t reach the undercoat, and pins that are too long may scratch your puppy’s skin.
Nail-Care Equipment
Nail clippers are used to clip a dog’s nails, and they come in several styles, the most popular being the guillotine and scissors styles. The guillotine style cuts from only one direction and has a replaceable blade. The scissors-type nail trimmer comes in sizes for small and large dogs. Replacing nail scissors from time to time may be necessary because they cannot be sharpened effectively, but you can usually get several years of use out of this type of clipper. The type of clippers you use comes down to your personal preference and which type your puppy will tolerate.
Canine nail files are not unlike nail files you would use on your own nails—only larger and quite a bit stronger. Some groomers will file nails, as opposed to clipping them, because some dogs—especially those who have not been conditioned at an early age—find nail clipping too stressful. Files are also used to smooth the rough nail edges left after clipping.
Breeders have been using nail grinders since long before they became a popular staple of doggie nail care. In fact, long before grinders became vogue, and way before Martha Stewart jumped on the pet-care bandwagon, breeders used plain ol’ rotary grinding tools (and some still do!).
A grinder grinds your dog’s nails down instead of clipping them. Grinders are readily available at most pet-supply stores or online. They come in a variety of models, including corded and cordless. Most grinders have two speeds, with the top speed being about 13,000 rpm. If you go this route, invest in a good-quality grinder; they are well worth the extra money.
Shampoos and Conditioners
A huge variety of shampoos and conditioners for dogs is available, ranging from all-breed products to coat-specific care to medicating, herbal, and color enhancing. The shampoo and conditioner you choose will depend on your puppy’s coat and skin. Shampoos and conditioners can either enhance and complement coats or damage them by stripping them of natural oils, weighing them down, or gumming them up.
While dogs benefit from a good shampooing, not all dogs need a conditioner. Yorkshire Terriers, for example, tend to have a lot of natural oils in their coats. Their silky coats require a minimal amount of conditioner; otherwise, they will end up looking very greasy. A Lhasa Apso, on the other hand, has a heavy, textured undercoat and a coarse outer coat that requires a conditioner for shine and to eliminate static, yet not so much as to soften the coat.Unless your dog has a specific skin condition, such as dry, flaky, itchy skin, choose a good-quality shampoo and conditioner designed specifically for dogs—something nontoxic and not detergent-based so as not to strip the hair of its natural oils. The pH balance of human shampoos is different than those for dogs, so it is best to stick with doggy shampoos.
Excellent coat-care products are available at most pet-supply stores. Most breeders and professional groomers use only the best-quality shampoos. Don't be shy about asking them for advice, as most are willing to answer questions. Shampoos and conditioners are also available online and through dog-show vendors.
Important but Optional Products
Some items are not necessarily essential but they do make grooming easier and more enjoyable.
Grooming Table: A grooming table can be a costly but worthwhile investment because it will save your back! It is convenient because you can set up the table in the yard or driveway and stand comfortably while you groom your dog. If you get one with a waterproof top, you can even bathe your dog on it.
Tables run the gamut in size, price, and quality. Some tables are height adjustable, and the surfaces vary from rubber matting to waterproof coatings. Most fold down for portability and storage, and some have wheels for easy maneuverability.
Sturdy construction is paramount with any grooming table. You do not want it collapsing while your dog is being groomed. If a grooming table is not in the budget, any sturdy surface, such as a kitchen table, bench, or crate top covered with a nonslip surface is sufficient.
Blow Dryer: Depending on your dog’s coat, a blow dryer designed specifically for dogs may well be a necessity as opposed to a luxury. For medium- or long-coated adult dogs, a forced-air dog dryer will cut your drying time in half. Once you use one, you will wonder, “How did I ever get along without one?”
Dog dryers differ from human dryers in a number of important ways. The least expensive dog dryers are just like handheld dryers made for humans. They are available at most discount stores, as well as at pet-supply stores. These dryers blow hot air and usually have variable speeds. If you go this route, use the lowest possible setting because you can easily burn your puppy’s coat or skin with a dryer that is too hot. The advantage of these dryers is that they are inexpensive; the disadvantage is that it will take a long time to dry a thick- or long-coated dog, and you run the risk of damaging your dog’s coat.
Forced-air dryers are what most breeders and groomers use. They are the most efficient for drying thick-, medium-, and long-coated breeds because they literally blow the water off the dog. Most forced-air dryers rely on high-velocity airflow rather than heat to efficiently penetrate and remove the water from a dog’s coat. Most have variable speeds, with the low speed being ideal for drying a dog’s sensitive parts, such as his feet, ears, and face. The advantage is they can cut your drying time in half (or better!), and they will not burn your dog’s coat or skin. The disadvantage is they are more expensive.
A puppy who is accustomed to hands-on affection will more readily accept grooming. Love may be the best way to detangle a puppy coat.
Introducing Grooming Basics
A puppy’s coat differs from the coat of an adult dog. It is usually softer, fluffier, and shorter. That’s why puppies are called little bundles of fur! Still, it is important that your puppy becomes accustomed to grooming at a young age—even if he doesn’t need a lot of brushing and grooming just yet.
If your puppy came from a reputable breeder, then he should be used to being handled and gently stroked. He has probably had at least one bath and may already be accustomed to being brushed and examined. If not, you will need to start this practice right away, or else you run the risk of making the grooming process an unnecessarily stressful experience. It can also get expensive if every bathing, brushing, or nail-clipping session becomes an ordeal that requires a trip to the groomers.
By teaching your puppy early on to accept handling, the grooming process becomes much easier as he grows into an adult dog. A well-trained dog is always easier to groom than an unruly one. Nothing spells stress like a 175-pound Great Dane who hates brushes and water.
To condition your puppy to being handled and eventually groomed, set aside some time every day for the first five or six months. You can do this while you are watching television or just sitting on the sofa. This helps your puppy to learn that handling is a necessary habit of daily life rather than something to dread.
Start by having your puppy sit in your lap (if he is small enough) or sit or stand next to you on the floor. Gently massage and stroke his body, rub his ears, count his toes, check his mouth, and so forth. Exposing your puppy to positive, calm, and delightful handling experiences sets up the whole grooming process. This is doubly important if you have a grooming-intensive breed, such as a Maltese or Yorkshire Terrier.
Once he is accustomed to handling, you can then gently introduce a brush in a soothing, calm manner. Most puppies learn to love the experience and interaction quite quickly. Some dogs never learn to like grooming, but they should learn to at least accept the necessary chore. Puppies have limited attention spans, and some are more agreeable than others when it comes to remaining still for more than a few seconds. In the beginning, you want progress—not perfection. Your goal is for your puppy to stand or lie still for a few minutes while you brush him.
If your handling is too rough or animated, your puppy may become anxious and squirm to get away. Try to be more gentle, calm, and slow with your movements. Harsh handling during these learning stages will come back to haunt you when your puppy grows up to resent being groomed. Don’t be surprised if your puppy is frightened, nervous, or unsure at first. Patience, gentle handling, and plenty of hugs and kisses will help build his confidence and teach him to accept and even enjoy the grooming process.
Brushing and Daily Care
Ideally, once your puppy is comfortable with being brushed, you should establish a routine of brushing your puppy for a few minutes each day. In addition to allowing you to bond with your puppy, this time enables you to check his entire body for lumps, bumps, cuts, rashes, dry skin, fleas, ticks, and debris. You can check his feet for cuts, torn pads, or broken nails and examine his mouth for signs of trouble, including redness, broken teeth, or discolored gums.
As your puppy grows and matures, depending on his breed and coat type, once- or twice-weekly brushings may suffice. As previously mentioned, coats come in various types and lengths, each one requiring its own set of tools and techniques. Once-a-week brushings may work for a Boston Terrier, but a Bearded Collie will benefit from quick daily brushings. Daily brushings will help reduce shedding and thus keep your house cleaner, too, and who doesn’t want that?
Some groomers and breeders recommend starting at the dog’s head, brushing the top of the head and around the ears, and then proceeding down the neck, chest, and front legs. Continue in one long stroke from the head toward the tail, then brush down the sides, and then finish with the rear legs. Others begin by brushing the legs, then working up to the body, and then finishing with the head. With puppies, some days you have to be satisfied with just getting them brushed—no matter which part comes first.
Many groomers discourage backward brushing—brushing against the direction of hair growth—because it can damage the coat, and some dogs find the process uncomfortable and irritating.
For dogs with short, straight coats, a rubber curry brush to pull out the dead hair and a boar bristle brush to shine the coat a few times a week is usually sufficient. Rubbing down your puppy with a hound glove, chamois, or soft towel and applying coat oil will add shine to his coat.
Medium-length coats, such as those found on Corgis, Scottish Terriers, and Siberian Huskies, require about ten minutes of regular brushing several times a week to keep up their appearances. A pin brush, slicker brush, or comb works well on these types of coats. The pin or slicker brush (or even a curry brush) helps to remove the dead hair and undercoat. Running the comb through the coat after you are finished brushing will help remove any remaining dead coat.
Long- or drop-coated breeds, such as the Maltese, Yorkshire Terrier, and Afghan Hound, require significantly more maintenance than their short- or medium-coated counterparts. Correct brushing is the most critical grooming skill needed for these coats. Some owners opt to keep these breeds in short clips or puppy cuts, which are less troublesome.
Puppies differ in their sensitivities. Always work within your puppy’s comfort zone, being careful not to tug or brush too hard. Normal brushing for one puppy may be painful to another. Keep coat damage to a minimum by brushing gently. Part the hair with one hand and work from the skin out, brushing only in the direction of the hair growth, and continue right to the ends. Avoid “flicking” the ends of the hair, which can lead to breakage.
Never brush a dry or dirty coat, as this will cause the ends to break. Instead, mist or spray the hair first with a cream rinse diluted with water or a coat conditioner to help control static and prevent breakage.
For double-coated breeds, be sure to brush down to the skin, brushing both the top coat and undercoat. Brushing only the top coat can result in painful mats and tangles underneath that are difficult, if not impossible, to comb out. When a matted coat gets wet, the moisture is trapped near the skin, causing hot spots—circular lesions that are inflamed, raw, moist, and very painful. Be sure to check hidden spots, including the puppy’s “armpits,” chin, belly, and groin area, which are a haven for mats. Pay attention to the soft fuzzy hair behind the ears, too. It mats easily, so it needs to be kept clean and brushed regularly. Thinning the fuzzy hair will help to prevent matting while keeping your puppy’s coat tidy.
Even if you plan to have your dog professionally groomed, it is helpful to seek basic grooming advice from a qualified professional because you may want to attend to your puppy’s coat between visits.
In order to preserve the naturally harsh texture of the terrier’s coat, the groomer must pluck the coat by hand or use a stripping knife to remove the dead top coat.
Styling Special-Care Coats
Some breeds require clipping, stripping, and scissoring—all of which require a skilled hand. Breeds such as the Poodle or Bichon Frise are often kept in show coats that require special care and the preparation of an experienced groomer. Mastering the proper scissoring technique can take years, which is why many owners opt to keep these breeds in short or puppy clips. Before investing in costly scissors or clippers that can be a bit tricky to use, get advice and instruction from an experienced breeder or groomer.
Some terriers such as the Parson Russell Terrier, need to be stripped or “plucked” by hand, which helps keep the coat in good condition. Stripping a terrier’s coat helps retain the coat’s natural harsh texture and the lie of the hair.
Breeders used to strip a terrier’s coat by hand—literally plucking each hair. Today’s breeders and groomers generally use stripping knives, available at most pet-supply stores. The process involves grasping a few hairs between the thumb and knife blade and giving a sharp pull. When properly done, it should not cause any pain, but it may be stressful for a young puppy that is not used to the process.
It is not likely that your puppy’s coat will need clipping, scissoring, or plucking until he is a bit older. However, it is a good idea to condition to him to the sound and sensations of appropriate grooming techniques from an early age. Your groomer will thank you!
Shaving a Dog’s Coat
As your puppy grows into an adult dog, you may be tempted to shave his long locks as a way of keeping him cool in hot weather. This is a controversial topic, and you will want to speak to your veterinarian before doing so. A normal, healthy coat helps protect a dog from the sun. When shaved, your dog is more susceptible to sunburn. If you want to keep your dog cool in the summer, be sure his coat is clean and free of mats and dead undercoat.
Make your puppy’s first bath a positive experience. Be sure to make him feel secure and keep water from getting into his eyes and ears.
Bathing and Drying
Bathing your puppy may seem like a daunting task, but it really is quite easy once you get the hang of it. When introduced correctly, most puppies grow into adult dogs who enjoy the process. Bathing and grooming also help with the bonding process because you are spending valuable time loving your puppy.
One key to success is having all of your supplies handy before you start running the water. You do not want your puppy jumping out of the sink or tub or off the grooming table while you are searching for shampoo or towels.
How often your puppy requires bathing depends on where you live, how much time he spends outside, and how dirty he gets. Some puppies—like some kids—have a knack for getting dirtier than others, so you will need to be the judge.
Some groomers and breeders discourage regular bathing for some dogs, such as rough- or wire-coated breeds, as too much shampooing can dry out the coat. Consider, however, that many a show dog is bathed weekly while on the show circuit, and more than a few puppies and adult dogs love running through puddles and rolling in stinky stuff on a daily basis. Choosing the right shampoo will help immensely when regular baths are necessary.
In warmer climates, you may be able to bathe your dog outdoors with a garden hose, provided the water is not too cold. (This is where a grooming table comes in handy.) If your puppy is small enough, you can bathe him in the sink. For larger puppies, a bathtub or shower stall works well, and be sure to use a rubber mat to provide secure footing and prevent your dog from slipping. Do not forget about slippery floors, either. A rubber mat or plenty of dry towels on the bathroom floor will prevent your puppy from slipping and injuring himself. Have plenty of towels on hand for cleaning up and drying off.
A sprayer attached to the faucet works well, and no doubt you will need to accustom your puppy to the sprayer’s sound and the sensation of water soaking his body.
Saturate your puppy’s coat and skin with lukewarm water. Apply a dab or two of shampoo and gently scrub. Work the shampoo into the coat with your fingers or a rubber curry brush or massaging glove designed specifically for dogs. Massage the shampoo into his coat from head to toe, being careful to avoid the eye area. Don’t overlook his belly, the inside of his hind legs, under his arms, and behind his ears.
To clean around a puppy’s eyes, wipe the eye area with a damp cloth. Tearless shampoos are available for washing around the head and eye area, but you still want to avoid getting any in your puppy’s eyes.
Rinse his entire body with lukewarm water until the water runs clear. Some coats can hold a lot of suds, and residual shampoo can irritate the skin and leave a dull film on the coat, so be sure that his coat is thoroughly rinsed. If necessary, shampoo and rinse again to be sure that your puppy is squeaky clean. If you are using a coat conditioner or skin moisturizer, follow the directions carefully.
Use your hands or a highly absorbent towel or chamois cloth to squeeze out excess water from your puppy’s coat and then wrap him in a warm, dry towel before lifting him out of the sink or tub. A lot of puppies love to shake immediately after their baths. You might want to encourage this behavior while he is still in the tub or sink; otherwise, your wet puppy is likely to make a mad dash around the house!
Whether using a blow dryer or warm towels, be sure to remove as much water as possible from the puppy’s coat.
If you live where temperatures are warm, and your puppy is likely to air-dry quickly, blow drying may not be necessary. Otherwise, to prevent him from getting chilled, blow-dry him with a dryer designed for dogs or, if necessary, a human blow dryer. If your dryer has a heating element, be sure to use the lowest or cool setting—never hot. Hold the dryer at least 6 inches away from the coat and keep the dryer in motion to avoid damaging the coat or burning your puppy’s skin.
Most puppies and adult dogs dislike having air blowing into their faces, and for good reason. The face is sensitive, and the eyes, nose, and mouth can easily be injured with excessive heat or air pressure. Angle the dryer away from his face or simply allow his face to air dry.
You will need to accustom your puppy to the noise and sensation of the blow dryer. Start with a low speed and gradually work up to a higher speed, if necessary, always using cool air.
Keep His Collar Dry
A wet nylon or leather collar pressed against wet fur is an ideal site for bacteria growth, so it is important to thoroughly dry your puppy’s collar and neck area after bathing and before putting his collar back on. If your puppy likes to swim or play in water, be sure to remove his wet collar afterward until his neck and his collar are completely dry. This helps to prevent bacteria and the unmistakable doggy odor that can accumulate in these areas. If your puppy regularly swims in a chlorinated pool or in any natural body of water, rinse him afterward to prevent skin irritations.
Foot and Nail Care
Life can be miserable for dogs (and humans!) when their feet hurt. To keep your puppy’s feet in tip-top shape, you will want to take good care of them for his entire life. This includes inspecting and trimming his nails on a regular basis. If you are the slightest bit lazy about nail care, you run the risk of your puppy’s nails growing too long, making walking awkward and painful for him. Long nails can break, tear, or snag, and they can can scratch furniture, hardwood floors, and skin. Torn or broken nails can cause a puppy a great deal of pain and discomfort, and they may become infected, which can require veterinary attention. Nails that are not regularly trimmed and are allowed to grow too long put undue stress on the paw by forcing weight on the backs of the foot pads, which can, over time, break down the foot.
How often a puppy’s nails need to be trimmed depends a good deal on the individual dog. Some puppies and adult dogs seem to require little nail trimming, while others need their nails trimmed weekly or at least several times a month. Also, much depends on the ground surface on which a puppy or adult dog spends most of his time. A puppy who spends the majority of his time indoors or running on grass will likely require more frequent nail trimming than his canine counterpart who spends a good deal of time walking, running, or playing on asphalt or concrete. While walking on hard surfaces, such as pavement, may help naturally wear down a dog’s nails, few puppies or adult dogs wear down their nails naturally to the point that they never require trimming.
Like other aspects of grooming, proper nail care should start while your puppy is young and receptive to new experiences. With any luck, the breeder will have started snipping small pieces of nail as part of the socialization process, as well as to build the puppy’s confidence and teach him to accept having his feet handled. In the beginning, depending on your puppy’s level of cooperation, you may want to simply touch the nail clipper to his nails and then offer plenty of praise.
Dogs have a blood vessel called the “quick” that travels approximately three-quarters of the way through the nail. Regular nail trimmings will keep the quick from growing too close to the end of the nail. If the nails are neglected and they grow too long, it becomes more difficult to cut them back to the appropriate length because as the nail grows, so too does the quick. For that reason, it is better to get in the habit of trimming tiny bits of nail on a regular basis rather than waiting for the nails to get too long and then expecting to cut them back easily.
Your puppy may have white nails, black nails, or a combination of both. White nails make it easier to see the quick, which looks like a pink line extending through the nail toward the tip. Black nails make it difficult to see where the quick ends and the hook—the dead section of nail that extends beyond the quick—begins.
You want to trim only the dead section of nail. Clipping a dog’s nails too short can cut the quick and cause bleeding. It’s pretty darn painful for a puppy, too, and he will likely be hesitant to allow you to continue. One nip of the quick can lead to a lifelong aversion to nail clipping. A number of blood-clotting products are available through retail stores, such as powdered alum, styptic powder, or styptic pencil. Some breeders also recommend cornstarch in a pinch. Having one of these products in your doggy first-aid kit is always a good idea.
Guillotine-style nail clippers are preferred by most groomers and owners.
Before clipping, examine the underside of the nail. You will see that the section closest to the paw is solid, while the tip (or hook) of the nail looks hollow, like a shell. You may be able to see or feel the slightest groove on the underside of the hook portion of the nail. Trim only the thinner hollow part, just nipping it where it curves slightly downward.
Some experts theorize that the sound of the nail clipper conditions a dog to expect something aversive—an example of classical conditioning. Some dogs simply will not tolerate their nails being clipped. In these instances, you might consider using a nail file or an electric nail grinder. Some groomers use a combination of clippers, files, and grinders to trim the nails or to smooth any remaining sharp edges.
If you use a grinder, do not hold it in one spot for more than a second or two because it has an abrasive tip (similar to sandpaper) that spins at a high speed. The easiest way to use a grinder is to lightly touch the nail, release, and then repeat. Applying too much pressure or filing too close to the quick can cause a puppy a lot of discomfort. Nail grinders make whirling noises, and the vibration on the dog’s nails can take some getting used to. If started at a young age, though, many puppies learn to accept the nail grinder as part of the routine grooming process.
To condition your puppy to a nail grinder, put him on the grooming table or sit on the floor with him and a bucket of treats. Turn on the grinder, offer plenty of yummy treats, and turn off the grinder. Do this about ten or more times until your puppy is comfortable. Next time, turn on the grinder, move it toward his foot, and treat. Do this as many times as necessary until your puppy is comfortable. Eventually, turn on the grinder, touch the nail, and treat. The goal is to grind one nail, then two, then progress to all of the nails on one foot, and then move on to the other foot, with plenty of treats in between grinding. At first, until your puppy is comfortable with the process, it's safest to grind only half as much of the nail as is necessary. Also, be sure that your puppy’s hair doesn’t get caught in the rotating grinder head—be ever alert about keeping the hair away from the rotating head.
In no time, with practice and patience, you will discover that trimming nails is not as hard as it may seem. Ideally, you should have a veterinarian or experienced groomer show you how to do it correctly. Learning how to do it properly, using the correct equipment, and having a dog that accepts having his feet handled will make this necessary task easier and go a long way in reducing the odds of inadvertently nipping the quick.
You will need to find what works best for you and your puppy. If your puppy never grows to tolerate the procedure, you can always take him to the groomer or veterinarian’s office for nail clipping.
If your puppy has dewclaws, be sure to trim them regularly. Certain breeds, such as the Beauceron (pictured), Briard, and Great Pyrenees, retain their dewclaws.
Dewclaws are the fifth digits on the inside of the front and rear legs, usually an inch or so above the feet. In some puppies, the rear dewclaws are absent at birth. When present, some breeders choose to leave them on, while others have them removed shortly after birth. If your puppy has dewclaws, you will want to make sure that you include them in your regular nail care. If left unattended, they can curl around and grow into the soft tissue, not unlike an ingrown toenail on a human.
Ear Care
Routine ear cleanings are a necessary part of puppy and adult care and will help to reduce ear infections, which top the list of reasons that owners take their dogs to the veterinarian. While any breed is susceptible to ear problems, certain types of dogs are more prone to ear infections:
•breeds with pendulous (floppy) ears, such as Cocker Spaniels and Basset Hounds
•breeds with a lot of hair in and around the ear canal, such as Poodles and Schnauzers
•dogs who spend a lot of time in the water, such as Labrador Retrievers and Irish Water Spaniels dogs with allergies that may have more ear problems because of their allergies
A dog's ear has three major parts:
•the outer ear, which consists of the ear flap (also called the pinna)
•the middle ear, which is separated from the outer ear by the eardrum
•the inner ear, which connects to the brain and contains nerves and the circuit board for balance and hearing
Unlike a human’s ear canal, which lies basically in a horizontal line from the side of the head inward to the eardrum, a dog’s ear canal is L-shaped. The internal ear canal descends vertically before making almost a90-degree bend and terminating in a horizontal stretch to the eardrum, also known as the tympanic membrane. A major benefit of the dog’s two-directional ear canal structure is protection of the eardrum, which is vulnerable to injury. The downside is that gravity encourages wax, dirt, and other debris to collect in the ear canal’s bend. Dogs can shake out some of the material, but the gunk that remains sets up a haven for infection.
Compounding the problem is the thick hair that grows in the ears of some breeds, which prevents proper aeration of the ear canal, which contributes to ear infections. Dogs who swim or are bathed frequently may have water left in their ears, which is another potential source of ear problems. Recurrent ear infections are a common clinical sign of dogs with allergies. Parasites, foreign bodies, trauma, tumors of the ear canal, ruptured eardrums, and certain skin disorders, such as seborrhea, all can contribute to ear problems as well.
At least once a week—or more often, depending on your dog’s breed and lifestyle—check the inside of your puppy’s ears. The L-shaped canal means you can’t see everything, but what you can see should be clean and light pink in color. It should have a clean, healthy doggy smell—somewhat resembling the smell of beeswax. Honey-colored wax in the ear is normal, but a dark crusty substance may indicate problems, such as ear mites. If your puppy’s ears have a discharge or smell bad, or if the canals look abnormal, red, or inflamed, do not clean the ears; instead seek veterinary attention right away.
Symptoms of an ear infection typically include signs of discomfort, such as depression or irritability, scratching or rubbing of the ears or head, shaking the head, or tilting the head to one side. The problem might be a foxtail or burr in his ear, ear mites, or the start of an infection. The longer an ear infection goes untreated, the harder it is to get rid of, and your puppy will be in a lot of pain. Left untreated, ear infections may cause permanent damage to your puppy’s hearing, so do not procrastinate in getting your puppy to the veterinarian.
Cleaning Your Puppy’s Ears
Experts disagree on how often owners should clean their puppy’s or adult dog’s ears. Some say to clean only when there is visible debris, feeling that cleaning too often can upset the ear’s delicate pH balance. Others suggest weekly cleanings with a few drops of a veterinarian-recommended ear-wash solution squeezed into the ear canal. Do not place or force the tip of the bottle into the ear canal, as you run the risk of rupturing the eardrum. Massage the base of the ear to distribute the wash, and then gently wipe the inside of your puppy’s ear leather (ear flap) using a cotton ball or a strip of gauze wrapped around your finger. If necessary, dampen the cotton or gauze with a bit of ear-wash solution or witch hazel.
Remember the old adage “Never put anything smaller than your elbow in your ear?” The same concept applies to your puppy. Only clean the section of ear flap that you can see. Never stick cotton swabs or pointed objects into the ear canal because this tends to pack the debris in rather than remove it. Most important, you risk injuring your puppy’s eardrum should you probe too deeply.
Eye Care
Your puppy’s eyes should be clear and bright. You can easily clean your pup’s eyes by saturating a gauze pad or soft washcloth with warm water and then, starting at the inside of the eye, gently wiping toward the outside corner of the eye. Excessive tearing, redness, swelling, discoloration, or discharge may be signs of an infection. If you suspect that something is wrong, do not hesitate to call your veterinarian.
Anal Glands
Anal glands and anal-sac disease are not your typical dinner- table topics, but anal sacs are an important part of your puppy’s anatomy that you should understand so you can better recognize a problem. In the simplest of terms, anal glands are scent glands located around a dog’s anus, which produce a strong-smelling, oily secretion. When dogs greet each other with their familiar rear-end sniffing, they are smelling the secretion from each other’sanal glands.
When viewing a dog from behind, the sacs are located at approximately the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. The glands are emptied naturally during bowel movements. If not emptied regularly, the liquid contents become thick and plug the openings of the anal sacs. If the impacted (clogged) glands are not cleared, they can become abscessed. (If you think normal anal gland fluid stinks, you never want to experience infected anal glands.) Abscessed anal glands require veterinary attention, as do impacted or clogged glands.
Experts do not know why some dogs are predisposed to anal sac abscesses. Obesity may be a contributing factor. If you notice your dog scooting his rear on the floor or licking or biting the anal area excessively, chances are his anal sacs may be full or clogged. Abscessed or infected glands can be very painful, and a dog may be hesitant to allow you to touch around the area.
When glands become clogged, they must be expressed, or emptied, by applying pressure to the glands. While some owners have learned to express the glands themselves, most feel that it is money well spent to have a veterinarian do it.
Keep your puppy’s smile shining.
Dental Care and Problems
As with other aspects of grooming, you should begin exposing your puppy to regular (preferably daily) toothbrushing at an early age. If you have not started yet, do not worry. It is never too late to begin. Puppies often struggle with having their mouths examined because they are unfamiliar with the routine. Plus, their mouth and gums can be super sensitive, especially when they are teething—that time between three and six months of age when a puppy’;s baby teeth fall out and the adult teeth begin pushing through the gums.
It is much easier to brush a puppy’s teeth than you think. You can begin conditioning him to the process at the same time you are introducing grooming basics and handling. Calm handling and touching your puppy’s mouth and teeth set the foundation for regular oral hygiene.
Your success relies on having the right supplies, being patient, and always progressing at a rate comfortable for your puppy. You will need a pet toothbrush or a finger toothbrush (a rubber cap that fits over your finger) and toothpaste made specifically for dogs. Most canine toothpastes are formulated with poultry- or malt-flavored enhancers for easier acceptance. Never ever use human toothpaste because it can upset your puppy’s stomach.
Start by using your finger to massage your puppy’s gums. Put a small dab of doggy toothpaste on your index finger and let your puppy lick it. Praise him for being brave. Apply another dab on your finger, gently lift up his outer lips, and massage his gums.
Ideally, it is best to massage in a circular motion but, in the beginning, you may need to be satisfied with simply getting your finger in your puppy’s mouth—without getting nipped by those razor-sharp baby teeth. Try to massage top and bottom, and the front gums, too. Keep a positive attitude, praising and reassuring your puppy throughout the process. Try to avoid wrestling with your puppy or restraining him too tightly. This will only hamper the process and make him resistant to the task.
Depending on your puppy, it may take a few days or a few weeks for him to accept your fiddling about in his mouth. Once your puppy is comfortable, try using the toothbrush or finger toothbrush. Let your puppy lick some toothpaste off the toothbrush and, again, praise him.
You may find it easier to start with the canine teeth—the big fang-like teeth in the front of the mouth. They are the easiest to reach, and with any luck you should be able to brush them with little interference or objection from your puppy. In time, you can progress to a few more teeth, and then a few more, until you have brushed all twenty-eight puppy teeth. Remember to always progress at a pace that is suitable for your puppy.
In addition to regular at-home toothbrushing, be sure to provide your puppy with plenty of chew or dental toys that help to remove tartar and plaque. Toys should not replace brushing, but they will help to remove some of the buildup on the teeth, exercise your puppy’s jaw, and satisfy his need to chew. Equally important, be sure to schedule yearly professional teeth cleanings with your veterinarian.
Periodontal Disease
The sweet smell of puppy breath! It only lasts a few months, but who can resist that intoxicating scent? It is not likely that your puppy has developed periodontal disease yet, but more than 80 percent of dogs develop some degree of periodontal disease by age three, the American Veterinary Dental Society reports, making this the number-one dental disease affecting adult dogs. Compared with other canine diseases, it is often overlooked by owners, even though it is completely preventable with proper care.
Don't ignore your puppy’s or adult dog’s bad breath. It is not normal, and it is a telltale sign that something is wrong. Unless you have seen your puppy eat something particularly offensive (such as spoiled garbage, squirrel guts, or cat stools—or even his own stools), it is best to have your dog examined by a veterinarian. Bad breath, tartar accumulation, and red, swollen gums are classic symptoms of periodontal disease, which is the progressive loss or destruction of the tissues that hold the teeth in the jaws. It starts the same way in dogs as it does in humans, with plaque buildup around and under the gum line.
When the bacteria come in contact with the gums, or gingiva, they provoke an inflammatory reaction known as gingivitis. Yellowish brown crust on a dog’s teeth and red gums are signs that you need to visit a veterinarian. In the earliest stages, when only plaque and minimal tartar are present, gingivitis is reversible.
Treatment at this stage is relatively straightforward and includes a thorough oral examination and professional dental cleaning, which means that your dog will need to be anesthetized. While he is asleep, the veterinarian can remove all of the tartar from the teeth, below the gum line, and between the teeth—a nearly impossible task with a conscious animal. (Some clinics advertise no-anesthesia procedures. This is highly controversial. Be sure to discuss with your veterinarian the pros and cons of both types of procedures.)
Left untreated, the bacteria can spread under the gum line, causing deep pockets between the teeth and gums. These pockets encourage more bacteria growth, causing infection in the deeper periodontal tissues—a condition known as periodontitis. In this stage of the disease, the tissues and bones that support the teeth erode, resulting in pain and eventual tooth loss. In advanced stages, bacteria can enter the bloodstream, causing secondary infections that can damage your dog’s heart, liver, and kidneys.
Periodontitis is irreversible, but in some cases, treatment can slow the progression of the disease, prevent infection, and ease pain. Treatment for periodontitis generally includes a professional dental cleaning and, depending on the severity of the disease, may include tooth extraction or periodontal surgery to clean the root surfaces or remove excessive gum tissue.
The cost of a professional dental cleaning varies depending on the dog, the condition of his mouth, whether or not pre-anesthesia blood work is required, and, of course, the individual veterinary clinic. The price tag can jump by hundreds or thousands of dollars if periodontal surgery is required.
The least expensive method of keeping your puppy’s teeth and gums healthy is prevention. Tartar can start accumulating again just twenty-four to thirty-six hours after professional cleaning; therefore, regular at-home toothbrushing is essential and is the most effective means of removing plaque. You can purchase a toothbrush and doggy toothpaste to keep your puppy’s pearly whites clean, healthy, and tartar-free all year.
Other preventive measures include providing your puppy with dental chew toys and water additives or gels. Feeding a balanced premium diet, or a food specifically designed to reduce the accumulation of plaque and tartar, are also recommended. When choosing products for dental health, from water additives to special chews and foods, a good place to start is the Veterinary Oral Health Council (www.vohc.org). The more diligent you are about at-home dental care, the less veterinary intervention will be necessary.
Fractured Teeth
Veterinarians say that broken teeth are very common; some clinics see several cases per week. Like humans, dogs with fractured teeth can suffer a great deal of pain, especially if the broken tooth exposes the pulp, the soft inner portion of the tooth that contains blood vessels and nerve tissues. If a broken tooth goes untreated, it can create a superhighway for bacteria to lodge in the damaged tissue, causing inflammation and abscesses.
Eventually, the tooth dies and becomes a bacterial haven. As with periodontal disease, the blood vessels in the area pick up the bacteria, spreading it to and infecting other areas of the body, specifically the liver and kidneys.
Any tooth can break, but the most commonly fractured teeth are the canines and the upper fourth premolar, which is the main “chomping” tooth. Dogs usually break their teeth chewing on hard bones, rocks, ice cubes, and, yes, chain-link fencing. Fighting or fence fighting are common causes of broken teeth (especially canines). Trauma, such as being hit by a car, can also lead to broken teeth.
With the canines or incisors, which are easily visible, you can usually easily identify a broken tooth. Other times, you may notice clues, such as bleeding or pain when you touch a tooth, or facial swelling inside or outside the mouth. Some dogs have difficulty eating and may avoid chewing on one side, or they may not drink very cold water. Again, some dogs are very stoic and show few or no signs of discomfort. Treatment depends on the dog’s age and the time that elapses between the fracture and treatment, as well as which parts of the tooth are broken and the break’s severity. If only the enamel is broken, treatment may be minor, such as smoothing the sharp edges to prevent irritation to the lips or tongue. More serious breaks may require removal, a root canal, or a crown—not unlike the dental procedures performed on people.
Veterinary dentistry has come a long way, but education, prevention, and regular checkups remain the best approach to dealing with and preventing dental problems.
Choose safe chew toys for your puppy. The raised nubs on a nylon or resin bone can help remove plaque buildup on your dog’s teeth
Consider a Professional Groomer
If you have fallen in love with a double-coated or long- or drop-coated breed but lack the time, energy, and know-how to properly groom your four-legged friend, consider taking him to a professional groomer. No doubt this will make your life much easier. Here are a few things to consider:
•Prices can range from reasonable to very expensive. Be prepared to pay extra for vey dirty or matted dogs.
•Depending on your puppy’s breed, he may need grooming every two weeks or scissoring/clipping every six weeks.
•Groomers are busy, so book appointments well in advance—especially during holiday seasons.
•Look for groomers who are professionally trained and knowledgeable about your breed.
Finding a groomer is not terribly difficult, but it may take some time to find the one who is right for you and your puppy. Many breeders also are professional groomers, so you may luck out. Otherwise, ask the breeder for a referral. If your puppy did not come from a breeder, ask dog-owning friends or relatives for a referral. Many veterinary clinics, boarding kennels, doggy day- care centers, and pet-supply stores have groomers on staff. Dog shows are also great resources because these dogs are always impeccably groomed, and many handlers are also groomers.
If you see a good-looking dog at the dog park or vet’s office, don’t be shy about asking who grooms the dog. A dog person often loves any opportunity to talk about his or her dog—especially when you have just complimented him!