Elegant Food, Impeccable Service Define Le Bernardin


MARCH 21, 2012


We had dined at Dovetail—one of New York City’s finest restaurants—the first evening we were in the city. With friends, we had a wonderful time visiting and tasting. We went to Shake Shack in Times Square the second evening. Ryan Babb of Forum Communications, who accompanied me on our whirlwind tour, thought we should see where real, down-to-earth people eat.

We took a Shake Shack menu handed out on the sidewalk and stood in line about 20 minutes before we could even get inside. We enjoyed the experience. And actually the burgers were very tasty. They had that good flavor that only comes with a little fat. We are not sure if they contained the pink slime that has hit the news waves of late. And we didn’t ask.

Then, there was a lunch at the exclusive Crown, on Madison Avenue. There, the food seems unexcelled and the ambience both warm and sedate.

We approached Le Bernardin with awe because of its reputation as THE top restaurant in the city. It is a longtime holder of the top star ratings by the Michelin Guide. We spent almost four hours in this famous restaurant, which has its origins in France.

It was an unforgettable experience because of the elegant food and impeccable service. We came away marveling at the highly professional serving staff, the sommelier who described the wines he paired with each course, and the chefs in the kitchen. We were surprised when Eric Ripert, chef-owner of Le Bernardin, invited us into the kitchen.

This was a dazzling scene, with pastry chefs and sous chefs in stiffly starched bright white uniforms, busily engaged in their work.

On Thursday, we were treated to the chef’s tasting menu. Servings were light and inviting. First course: caviar wagyu. Second course: octopus. Ryan said he had never eaten it before. I nodded and said, “Neither have I. Dig in.”

The sommelier, Aldo Sohm, stayed with us, describing in a delightful witty way of how he paired each course with the right wine. It was a leisurely meal with small, very dainty servings. We were comfortable.

Sohm really made the meal an enjoyable adventure. He has been voted best sommelier in America—and indeed the world. He is wise about wines and explained how each wine blends with the food. He poured sipping-sized portions. The wine did not overwhelm the tastes we experienced.

Waiters were on hand with a variety of breads, and there was softened butter with a dash of sea salt in small metal containers.

The courses kept coming. There was a sea medley, then codfish. We ate monkfish with Brussels sprouts. Then there was a Seville orange sorbet with olive oil and basil.

The final course was called chocolate peanut. This was a Madagascar chocolate ganache, peanut mousse and salted caramel ice cream. Each was bite-sized—a medley of wonderful tastes. When the salted caramel ice cream drooped a little, the waiter took it away and replaced it.

While we came ready to be served and pay the cost, we realized the staff was aware of our mission of testing, tasting and writing. We received special attention, but I think the experience would be as good for all customers.

The diners were middle-aged and older, dressed in fine clothing and enjoying their conversations over fine food. We found it all quite appealing.

There were special touches I liked about Le Bernardin. At the beginning of the meal, the waiter asked if we had any food allergies. We noticed small tables where women can place their purses. No need to sit there wrestling with a bag all evening.

There are not many minuses at Le Bernardin. That, obviously, is why it is considered tops in the Big Apple.

Le Bernardin continues to operate in New York.