JULY 26, 1995
Small cafes such as Noel’s Cuisine on Demers make the dining scene in Grand Forks an adventure. We had eaten Noel Singha’s Pakistani food a couple of years ago, when he and his wife, Caryn, leased the dining room of the American Legion Club in East Grand Forks. We enjoyed the curry dishes so much at the time that we went back a couple more times. We like to savor the curry and eat the warm bread, called naan.
Noel’s has moved to the location that for years was Web’s Cafe. We went there Thursday with our houseguest, Fran Froeschle, who used to write food columns for the Detroit Lakes (Minn.) paper when she was managing editor there.
My first surprise—a pleasant one, indeed—was to find the interior changed. Instead of the two horseshoe counters, there are only booths, about 10 of them. And there is fresh blue paint with homey valances of rose and blue tones on the windows. A cheery decor.
Noel’s has a sort of ma-and-pa arrangement. Noel is the chef, but both he and Caryn cook. She was serving the food. The menu lists breakfast and lunch items to suit American tastes. We studied the shorter menu of Pakistani food.
With more than a passing interest in food, Friend Fran (FF) studied the list of appetizers, which includes samosas (pastry stuffed with potatoes, peas and spices for $2.50), and seikh kebab (ground meat and spices for $2.25). Fran ordered aloo tikka (potato cutlet seasoned with spices for $1.75). We all took a taste and found this appetizer to be delightful patties made of potato, onion, green chili and other spices.
Then came the entrees. FF ordered a half tandoori chicken ($6.25), which is marinated in yogurt, lemon juice and spices, roasted and served on top of rice. CC ordered chicken curry ($6.25). After discussing the degree of spiciness with Caryn, he decided to ask for the mild, rather than hot curry. And mild was hot enough.
My choice was lamb biryani. This is a dish made of spring lamb marinated in spices, green chili, coriander, mint, yogurt, fresh-squeezed lemon and served with basmati rice and ghee (clarified butter) with saffron for $8.95.
We all tasted and savored the three dishes and were pleased with the quality of meat and how thoroughly it was cooked and how well it tasted with the flavored rice. “It’s interesting,” FF said, “how they cut up chicken differently, so you don’t know what part it is.”
My lamb was tender and tasty. We all agreed it was the dish we would order on another visit to Noel’s Cuisine. My serving was so ample that I took half of it home.
I noticed regulars eating vegetarian curry dishes. Noel’s serves curries with chickpeas, spinach, potatoes and lentils. The menu also lists Bombay potatoes and okra curry, spiced tea and an Indian dessert. There is a complete list on a reader board of Pakistani foods served for lunch, which are cheaper than dinner prices. This is a good place to stop for a change of pace at noon—a break from the soup and sandwich routine.
Caryn says in their first year, business has been OK. “We have a good following of people who like curry, but we have a problem with some thinking this is only Pakistani food.”
Marilyn says, “Noel’s restaurant went with the flood of 1997. . . . The owners went back to Pittsburgh, I am told, and he died there. It was a fun little restaurant with a very loyal following.”