NOVEMBER 24, 2004
At the grand old age of 79, Whitey’s of East Grand Forks is easily the oldest restaurant in the Grand Forks area. It is, in fact, an institution, having survived since the days of the 1930s, when East Grand Forks was a mecca for bars and nightclubs, and the Flood of 1997, to flourish in the aftermath.
These days, the post-flood Whitey’s sits up the block from its former building but retains most of its distinguishing qualities. The horseshoe bar, built in 1933, was saved from the floodwaters. The glass blocks are there. The very feel of Whitey’s is there.
And lately, longtime staff members are wearing smiles. They say business has been good, and the Canadians are coming back again. They get calls for reservations when there are hockey games on weekends. They run a bus to Ralph Engelstad Arena.
The carefree ambience of Whitey’s continues along with a couple of old trademarks on the menu—although the restaurant adds items right along to keep up with the times.
I made a lunch visit there on a Tuesday in November, since pan-fried chicken livers ($6.29) are one of the features on Whitey’s luncheon menu. I can think back 30 or 40 years and remember ordering chicken livers when we would go out to dinner at Whitey’s. And they are as good as ever, whether you eat them at noon or in the evening from the dinner menu ($8.99).
The chicken livers, which are marinated in a butter-wine sauce before being pan-fried, are plentiful. With them, at lunchtime, you get a very good, fresh poppy-seed hard roll and butter and your choice of potatoes or vegetables. Mine was an attractive plate of vegetables. I ended up taking half of the liver home for a second meal.
I went back on a Sunday to try another Whitey’s classic—mushrooms and asparagus tips over toast topped with melted Swiss cheese. This was $6.99 on the Sunday brunch menu. With it, I had a choice of soup or salad and took the ham and bean soup. I was brunching with Katie Mullen David (KMD), and I think she made an even better choice of French onion soup and a half of a fried Canadian walleye sandwich ($5.49). For some reason, I always think the people I am eating with make better choices.
KMD noticed an interesting wrap sandwich on the menu, but dismissed it saying, “You can get wraps anywhere. The walleye is good in Whitey’s.”
And it’s true. When you are in Whitey’s, it is well to “do” the Whitey’s specials. June Miron, who served my chicken livers, says, “Whitey’s has the best shrimp, prime rib and steak in town.” She also is proud of the chicken liver pâté. June is one of the core members of the staff who have spent decades working at Whitey’s. Lolly Metcalf has been there even longer.
June started in the 1960s, and has been there off and on ever since. She remembers giving the late Whitey Larson rides home. And she helped train Greg Stennes, who now is general manager and owner along with Lyle Gerzewski and Alice Davis.
With its longevity, Whitey’s has the distinction of being a meeting place for people who come back to town. In its recreation, Whitey’s is a sports bar where people gather.
Among the things I like about Whitey’s is the Canadian flag that hangs behind the bar. I like the nicely starched, brilliantly white napkins. I like the narrow shape and the thin glass in the drinking glasses. I like the fact that the staff wears white and black. Usually, the service is good. Sometimes, it is slow—as it was on a recent Sunday. But the staff always is courteous.
You can still walk into Whitey’s and circle the bar to find your friends. The booths around the perimeter provide a bit of privacy. The dining room with a wall of windows looking out on DeMers Avenue usually is filled first, and it is a pleasant area for lunch or dinner.