JUNE 7, 2006
We ordered a side of fiddlehead fern and a side of garlic wasabi mashed potatoes along with a pheasant lavosh. Then, we sat back and studied the Toasted Frog, which has been open slightly more than a month in downtown Grand Forks.
I was eating out with Katie David (KD), and we agreed the Toasted Frog is indeed a unique place for casual dining—a notch or two above the same old places. It is unique because of the menu that suits the customer who wants a beer and wings as well as those who want a full dinner. And it’s unique because of the artsy, trendy decor.
And yes, there are frog legs on the menu. They are served with buffalo sauce ($10). There are also sautéed clams, fried oysters and shrimp skewers.
The fiddleheads, not usually found on menus in this area, were excellent. So, too, the mashed potatoes. The pheasant lavosh ($15) with its light cracker crust was delicious. The tender pheasant was enhanced with red onion and roasted red peppers in a light cheese topping. The serving was enough for KD and me, with the leftover portion going home in a takeout box.
The Toasted Frog also has an open-faced pheasant melt ($10) sandwich. All sandwiches are served with french fries or sweet potato fries. Seven wood-fired pizzas are on the menu, including a Rome Dakota version with olive oil, garlic, basil, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes and marinated pheasant.
The menu, with a frog watermark on each of the two pages, lists fish tacos, lobster tail, walleye fingers, Angus burgers and buffalo wings. It’s not redundant or complicated, and that’s a plus.
Our server, Laura Holt, made the outing pleasant with her good humor and helpfulness. The staff of 16 seems friendly. They wear khaki trousers and black shirts with Toasted Frog insignias beneath long black aprons tied at the waist. The music was not too loud, but it was enough to mute conversations at nearby tables.
It seemed the opening of the Toasted Frog was a long time coming. It is good to have the corner of Second Avenue North and North Third Street, which used to house Lola’s, open and busy again. Those who enjoyed Lola’s are finding their way back to the Frog.
The Toasted Frog retains some of the best features of Lola’s. The bar, designed by David Badman, now is in the rear and faces the open kitchen, where patrons can watch the chefs in white at work. The private dining room still is there. So, too, is the room-sized wine cellar. The bar along the side and the private booths are there. Contemporary artwork enriches the restaurant, and the tiny hanging lamps add a dramatic touch. The old wood floors have been replaced by light wood. There is a certain charm about this old building with its high ceilings and an old brick wall.
The owners of the Toasted Frog seem pleased with initial response to their business. Both Jon Holth and Shawn Clapp had worked at Sanders 1907 and were involved in operation of the dining room in the restored Hotel Donaldson in downtown Fargo.
The two have created an inviting, very appealing spot that begins with unusual appetizers and winds up with desserts including a pear pie that is served on a pizza crust and includes caramel sauce over cinnamon ice cream.
Customers at Toasted Frog must be 21 and older. Smoking is allowed in the restaurant after 9 P.M.