By some estimates, sun exposure accounts for nearly 90 percent of age-related damage to often-exposed areas such as the face, the back of the neck and “V” of the neckline, the arms, and the backs of the hands. Why, exactly, does the sun pose such a problem? Ultraviolet radiation falls into three wavelengths, but only two reach the earth: ultraviolet A (UVA) and ultraviolet B (UVB). UVA rays are responsible for long-term photoaging, while UVBs are the culprit behind sunburn. Both types create free radicals that damage healthy skin cells and make it harder for skin to heal, and both play a role in skin cancer. Ultraviolet radiation breaks down elastin and speeds up collagen loss, leading to wrinkles. It can also make your skin thicker in some areas and thinner in others, affecting skin tone and texture. You can chalk up brown spots and spider veins to sun damage as well. And while fair-skinned people tend to have more visible signs of photoaging than those with dark skin, UV rays penetrate deeply, damaging skin and increasing the risk of skin cancer regardless of your skin color.
Slathering on sunscreen is a smart strategy for both preventing and undoing sun damage. A New England Journal of Medicine study looked at nearly six hundred people over the age of forty and found that using SPF 17 every day not only shielded them from harmful rays, it actually allowed sun-damaged skin to heal as well. To get the most benefit from sunscreen, apply a broad-spectrum formula of at least SPF 15 (if you have fair skin or burn easily, opt for SPF 30) half an hour before heading outdoors—even on cloudy days. Reapply every two hours, especially if you’re sweating, wet, or have dried or rubbed your skin with a towel.
A 2009 study found that adding antioxidants like vitamins C and E and epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) in green tea to a broad-spectrum sunscreen makes it even more effective in preventing sun damage. Since no sunscreen can block all UV rays, some radiation does get through to skin and creates free radicals. The antioxidants quench free radicals before they age your skin. Look for products with sun protection and antioxidants in one bottle.
There are two types of sunscreens: physical and chemical. Physical sunscreens contain ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide that scatter or reflect UVA and UVB rays so they can’t penetrate the skin. Remember lifeguards with those white stripes down their noses? They were using physical sunscreens. Thankfully, recent formulations are better able to blend in with your skin and are less noticeable. Physical sunscreens are popular picks for people with sensitive skin or rosacea.
Chemical sunscreens usually rely on one or more active ingredients—such as avobenzone (Parsol 1789), oxybenzone, or newcomer mexoryl (Anthelios SX)—to absorb UVA and UVB rays before they can damage skin. If you choose a chemical sunscreen, make sure it’s broad spectrum to protect against both UVA and UVB rays.
To repair sun-damaged skin, most dermatologists agree that prescription-only tretinoin, or Retin-A, is the top treatment. In a 2009 study, French researchers found that with nine months of regular application, a 0.1 percent retinol treatment improved under-eye wrinkles, fine lines, and skin tone. Research shows that 0.05 percent Retin-A cream helps heal mild to moderate photodamage as well. Retin-A protects against collagen breakdown and actually repairs collagen and elastic fibers, restoring collagen production by about 80 percent over ten to twelve months of daily use, according to a New England Journal of Medicine study. It also improves wrinkles and skin texture and color. Retin-A can cause irritation and redness, so talk to your doctor if you experience these side effects. It also increases your sensitivity to sunlight, so be superdiligent about wearing sunscreen while you use it. Over-the-counter products with retinols offer more subtle benefits.
Alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin C, and peptides are worthy additions to your skin-repair arsenal as well (
7).