If you’ve noticed your skin getting drier with age, you’re not alone. Over time, the outermost layer of your epidermis (the stratum corneum) loses lipids, the fatty substances that protect and keep your skin moist. And it’s not limited to the skin on your face: You might notice dry, itchy, easily irritated skin all over your body, especially in winter. Besides being uncomfortable, dry skin can make wrinkles more noticeable and lead to flaky, ashy skin—quite the opposite of the dewy complexion of your youth.
Whether it’s due to an arid climate or indoor heating, lack of moisture in the air can make a big difference in how dry your skin feels. A 2007 study in the Journal of Biomedical Optics found that increasing the relative humidity of the air causes skin to plump up, potentially diminishing wrinkles. To combat dry air, use a humidifier in your bedroom at night. If you have radiators, you can also place a tray of water on top—the heat will cause the water to evaporate and add moisture back into the air. Keeping well-watered houseplants nearby will also raise humidity. An inexpensive hygrometer, available at hardware stores or online, can track humidity levels; aim for 50 percent humidity (and no less than 30 percent, the amount at which skin starts to feel uncomfortably dry).
Although only a small percentage of the water you consume ends up reaching your skin, there’s no denying the importance of staying hydrated. Experts are divided on how much water you need to consume daily, and it varies according to your health, climate, and activity level. But as a general recommendation, the Institute of Medicine suggests that men consume roughly thirteen cups (about 3 L) and women consume nine cups (about 2.2 L) of total beverages a day. Notice that they didn’t just say “water.” That means that drinks such as milk, tea, and juice, plus foods with high water content such as grapes, tomatoes, and melon, all count toward your total. And there’s extra good news for those who enjoy hot beverages to take the chill off: A 2006 study in the Journal of Nutrition found that women who drank cocoa with high levels of flavanols (antioxidant compounds) had better-hydrated and smoother skin than women who drank low-flavanol cocoa. Look for varieties made with chocolate containing at least 60 percent cocoa to get a similar benefit. Marshmallows are optional.
Surprisingly, water isn’t always good for keeping skin moist. Long, hot showers may do wonders for your psyche, but they wreak havoc with your skin. Hot water strips natural oils more quickly, so use warm, not hot, water for showers and baths. And limit yourself to five to ten minutes in the water—any longer than that is actually dehydrating, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.
Steer clear of deodorant, antibacterial, or strongly scented soaps, which are too harsh, and avoid alcohol-based toners and cleansers. Dry skin is often more sensitive, so don’t derail your anti-aging efforts by exfoliating too much or too harshly with peels or scrubbing. Use milder treatments (or use them less frequently) until after you’ve tried these tips and your skin is better hydrated and less sensitive.
As water evaporates from the surface of your skin, it actually pulls moisture out of the skin’s top layer, exacerbating dryness. So the best time to moisturize is right after you shower or wash your face, while your skin is still slightly damp. Creams work best for sealing in moisture; rely on rich formulas with hyaluronic acid (1), shea butter, ceramides, stearic acid, or glycerin. For severely dry skin, try a moisturizer that contains urea or lactic acid—the American Academy of Dermatology notes that they help the skin hold water if used regularly. For cracked skin, Aquaphor is the dermatologist’s treatment of choice.