2). Many dermatologists suggest saving anti-aging creams to use at night, since sunlight can inactivate some of the ingredients or cause irritation—plus, they don’t have to compete with sunscreen and makeup to penetrate your skin.You already know that wearing sunscreen during the day is your first defense against aging skin (2). Many dermatologists suggest saving anti-aging creams to use at night, since sunlight can inactivate some of the ingredients or cause irritation—plus, they don’t have to compete with sunscreen and makeup to penetrate your skin.
When collagen breaks down, it forms short chains of amino acids called peptides that spur skin to repair itself. Applying peptides topically may trick your skin into thinking it needs to make more collagen. Moreover, because it’s easy to modify the molecules to help them cross the skin barrier more effectively, peptide formulations can carry other helpful ingredients to the skin and decrease toxicity, according to a 2009 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology.
Peptide treatments are relatively new to the market—in fact, much of the existing research focuses on peptides as wound-healing agents or as a way to deliver other ingredients to the skin—but dermatologists quickly saw their potential for helping reduce signs of aging. For instance, peptides typically bind water and, therefore, help hydrate skin, says Mary Lupo, M.D., dermatologist and professor at Tulane Medical School. That especially benefits aging skin, since skin gets drier as you mature and dry skin accentuates wrinkles.
There are three main types of peptides with anti-aging benefits. Signal peptides increase collagen production and reduce fine lines. Carrier peptides deliver copper to the skin, triggering a wound-healing response that boosts collagen and may improve skin tone and hyperpigmentation, as well as diminish fine lines. Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides may actually decrease muscle movement, leading to a mild Botox-like effect. Lab studies are encouraging, but it remains to be seen if these kinds of peptides can actually penetrate deep enough to reach the nerve-muscle connection in humans.
Within these three main categories, individual peptides are proprietary and licensed to cosmetics companies, notes Lupo. Many different peptides are available in a variety of products, but you’ll frequently see (signal) pentapeptides (found in StriVectin at $50 to $100 a pop, or Olay’s Regenerist line, in the $20 range) and copper peptides (such as Neova, in the $75 range, or Neutrogena’s Visibly Firm line for under $30) on labels. Experts predict combination products with multiple types will be next to hit shelves.
In the past few years, peptides have stolen the skin-care spotlight, but don’t dismiss ingredients that have been around longer; many have strong evidence supporting their effectiveness. These anti-agers have more research behind them, and dermatologists regularly recommend them to renew aging skin.
Alpha hydroxy acids can boost collagen and elastic fibers and hydrate skin if used regularly. Effective exfoliators, they also slough off dead skin cells that make skin dull and reduce the appearance of fine wrinkles. When shopping for AHAs, such as lactic and glycolic acids, which have been studied the most for safety and effectiveness, stick to over-the-counter concentrations of 10 percent or less and a pH of at least 3.5. Alpha Hydrox ($10 range), DDF ($35 to $50), and Peter Thomas Roth ($35 and up) are all good picks. AHAs make your skin more sun sensitive, so be diligent about wearing sunscreen and avoiding sun exposure while using them.
Solid research, including a 2006 review of studies in Dermatologic Surgery, confirms vitamin C’s benefits for skin, including boosting collagen production, protecting against sun damage, lightening dark skin spots, and calming inflammation. L-ascorbic acid seems to be the most effective form; ideally, a product will contain at least a 10 percent concentration. Check out certain Cellex-C products ($100 to $150) and La RochePosay’s Active C line ($35 to $50).
Vitamin C degrades quickly when exposed to light and air, so look for products in single-use or opaque packaging. Use within ninety days of opening, and consider storing it in the refrigerator.
Other topical antioxidants, such as green tea, coenzyme Q10, and vitamin E, also get the dermatologist seal of approval for their ability to quench free radicals.
Prescription-strength retinoids, such as Retin-A (tretinoin), are dermatologists’ first choice for repairing sun damage (2). Milder over-the-counter formulas of these vitamin A derivatives, called retinols, offer some anti-aging benefits as well. Try certain Philosophy products ($40 to $60), the ROC line ($10 to $45), and the Neutrogena Ageless Intensives line ($20). They can irritate skin, so start with a small amount every other day and build up to daily application.