2).Anti-aging treatments that once were offered only in the dermatologist’s office are now increasingly available at home. Microdermabrasion kits and chemical peels are two of the most popular. Both treatments work by exfoliating, which brings several benefits. First, mature skin is usually drier, and dead cells don’t slough off as easily, which translates to fine lines, rougher texture, and uneven skin tone. Exfoliation removes those cells and reveals younger, fresher skin underneath. Those new skin cells are better able to hold on to moisture, and they allow other anti-aging ingredients to penetrate better and work more effectively.
Because at-home treatments contain a lower concentration of active ingredients, do-it-yourself results can’t match those from the doctor’s office, but using them regularly can produce noticeable results at a fraction of the cost. And the American Academy of Dermatology notes that at-home treatments “can be safe when they have been thoroughly tested for this type of self-use”—as long as you follow the package directions. Here’s what you need to know if you’d like to try them on your own.
For an in-office microdermabrasion treatment, a dermatologist uses a wand to spray the skin with small crystals, such as aluminum oxide, providing deep exfoliation. This helps diminish fine lines and brown spots, and improves skin tone and texture. Skin fully recovers within twenty-four hours, and many patients notice some improvement right away, although you’ll likely need multiple sessions spread over several weeks for clearly visible results. At-home kits use similar technology, but the exfoliation isn’t as deep. Still, regular microdermabrasion treatments enhance skin cell turnover and will leave you with softer, smoother skin and fewer fine lines. The most basic products are simply grainy scrubs that you rub on your face with your fingertips.
A 2009 study in the Journal of Dermatological Treatment found that applying topical antioxidants immediately after professional microdermabrasion increased the number of fibroblasts, cells that produce collagen. Using an antioxidant-rich moisturizer or serum (such as Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum [$45] or Neutrogena Anti-Oxidant Age Reverse moisturizers [$20]) after at-home microdermabrasion may offer similar benefits. And of course, be sure to protect your new, softer skin with sunscreen during the day (2).
Mild chemical peels usually rely on alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like lactic acid, glycolic acid, or citric acid to exfoliate skin and encourage younger, healthier skin to develop. Unlike microdermabrasion, which physically removes dead skin cells from the skin’s top layer, chemical peels dissolve the “glue” that holds cells together so they can slough off. The result is softer, brighter skin with less-noticeable signs of sun damage, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots. At-home peels use lower concentrations of the acids—typically between 5 and 15 percent, compared to 30 percent for an in-office glycolic acid peel, for example. That means results aren’t as dramatic, but with regular use the less-potent treatments are still effective.
All the same, you are dealing with acids in concentrations high enough to cause irritation and other problems with overuse, so stick to well-known brands (such as Olay or other common drugstore brands, or those found in specialty stores like Ulta or Sephora, which likely have better safety track records) and always follow the directions. Chemical peels work best to reverse the effects of sun damage when they’re used along with other anti-aging treatments, noted a study in the 2008 issue of Clinics in Dermatology. Common combinations include microdermabrasion, Retin-A, and antioxidants (2, 7). To be safe, check with your dermatologist before using an at-home peel in case any of the ingredients interact with anti-agers you’re already using. And as always, you’ll need to be religious about using sunscreen so you don’t undo all your results.