My intentions for writing a book on Palestinian cuisine are both personal and practical. First, it evolved out of my interest in culinary culture in general. Second, quality Palestinian cuisine is poorly represented within Palestine and in the West. Finally, the need for a more health-oriented and less time-consuming cuisine, which draws from a heritage handed down through the generations, has become timely.
I owe my love of cooking to my mother who has managed, for the last fifty years, to keep the burner going, as it were, and it is to her that I owe my appreciation of the value of a well-cooked meal. I grew up in a home where the kitchen was the centre of activity and where a large portion of our lives was spent around the big wooden table that occupied the large central space, with my mother as queen of the realm and a source of creativity and resourcefulness. The cadence of finely cooked meals, carefully prepared and exquisitely served by her, still carries the aura of former days as we meet, children, grandchildren, great grandchildren and friends, and indulge our epicurean penchants.
I decided to write this book because of the current lacklustre situation of Palestinian cuisine and the stagnation from which Palestinian culture generally suffers, which has deprived it of its own specificity within the region of the Middle East. Palestinian identity has been crushed by the irreverent and overwhelming encroachment of a nascent Israeli ‘culture’ upon what is specifically Palestinian, for political ends and as part of Israel’s need to secure for itself a homogenising, collective identity. This momentous period in the history of Palestine presents the right juncture for giving our cuisine its rightful place among the cuisine of other nations.
I also wanted to reflect the economic and cultural context of social groups in transition where women have joined the work force; where education has heightened awareness of health issues associated with food consumption; where travelling and cosmopolitanism among substantial Palestinian groups have prompted the need for innovation and change. The anecdotes and excerpts in the text aim to enrich the culinary experience with illustrations of cultural and celebratory traditions from different regions of Palestine.
While my mother has handed me down the principles, the inducements for keeping my family happy have given me no choice but to cook again and again, and it is to them that I owe my advancement in this field. While more than twenty years have already elapsed, I know that it is not over yet.
Finally, I owe the idea of starting this book to my friend Pauline de Laboulaye, whose suggestions and advice throughout the writing were invaluable. Also the encouragement and appreciation of my friends, who have often been guests at my table, have given me enough self-confidence to embark on such a project.
