Large families with limited resources consider meat a luxury, which they can enjoy only sporadically; however, they need not feel deprived as a big variety of vegetarian dishes, equally rich and equally enjoyable, can still provide them with the required daily nutrients. It is customary to cook the vegetables for a long time in order to get a soft dish that can be eaten with kmaj bread. Many of those dishes include a rich thick sauce, often a tomato sauce, and in spring many are based on green, leafy vegetables.
In a country that suffers from severe water shortages the cultivation of vegetables is limited to certain areas and cannot be considered as a seriously lucrative operation. After the partition of Palestine and the displacement of more than half a million Palestinians, what we Palestinians call the Nakba, most of Palestine’s fertile areas ended up in the territory that is now Israel. The military occupation of the rest of Palestine by Israel in 1967 brought on further loss of territory through confiscation and the expansion of the settler movement. Fertile and green in the midst of bare hills of a biblical landscape, Jericho is one of the few Palestinian towns happily situated for agricultural exploitation. At almost 400 metres below sea level, Jericho is blessed with a fertile soil, hot weather and an abundance of springs that make it ideal for the cultivation of vegetables and citrus fruits.
Jericho epitomises the demographic fluctuations that swept Palestinian cities throughout the last fifty years. A backwater of just over 3,000 inhabitants, Jericho witnessed, in 1948, an unprecedented and sudden population growth due to the influx of more than 100,000 refugees from all over Palestine. In 1967, this figure dropped dramatically as a result of the wave of emigration brought on by the Six-Day War. Today, the population of the town, including the refugee camps, is 33,000.
My memories of Jericho are those of a laid-back town basking in the deep folds of its lush vegetation and lulled by the steady murmur of its water springs. Little did I know of the stark conditions that marred the reality of life in the camps; all we could see as growing children and senseless adolescents was the lure of its façade. As soon as winter set in, especially during the months of January through March, it was common practice for city people to flock down to Jericho for the warm climate and green surroundings. The oldest city in the world – the Tel in the heart of Jericho is the excavation site of an urban settlement that dates back 9,000 years – Jericho shed its provincial equanimity in favour of resort sophistication for the duration of the weekend. As teenagers we loved to throng the main thoroughfare and zoom on our bikes past colourful displays of green vegetables and citrus fruits that adorned both sides of the street, as mothers, aunts, grandmothers and godmothers paid their ritual visit to the bustling market place. Once we were back in the colder climate of the hills, out came forgotten recipes from the forlorn depths of old chests and the musty bottoms of neglected drawers. The following week promised yet another celebration of grandmothers’ recipes and wondrous concoctions.
Visits to Jericho still carry some of the magic of the sixties and seventies, for all is not lost, and a culinary feast awaits enthusiasts of such simple fare as hweirneh and qras b’sabanekh – spinach breads. The favourite fried kiftah meatballs that often accompany this assortment are passed over for the simpler delights of the side dishes. They brighten the dreary days of Lent when many homes, especially those of the Orthodox denomination, follow strict vegetarian and non-dairy diets. When such dishes are on the menu, the intended meagre repast turns into a gourmet special that defeats the purpose.
Whether sautéed, steamed or fried, vegetables remain favourites and endless combinations can come out of a good kitchen. After years of experience and trying out kitchen utensils, I find that a good wok is indispensable for preparing many of the vegetable dishes. Although the traditional way is to cook them until they are soft, I opt for crisper vegetables most of the time.
The artichoke season is limited to early summer and women get busy cutting and trimming the artichokes in order to have a nice supply of the hearts of this special vegetable in their freezers. In the last few years, it has become possible to buy them frozen in the better grocery stores at quite a high price. Preparing a small quantity is not an ordeal: wash the artichokes and peel off the leaves from the bottom with a sharp knife; cut off the upper part and core the centre clean. Always keep a basin of water laced with lemon juice to immediately soak the artichoke bottoms in so that they stay fresh and green.
Whether you buy them ready or you trim them yourself, artichoke bottoms remain a luxury dish and add a nice note to a special dinner. The heady aroma of fresh coriander leaves elevates this dish to an art form.
700 g (1½ lb) artichoke hearts
3 tbs vegetable oil
1½ tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
¼ cup fresh chopped coriander
3–5 garlic cloves
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
Sauté the artichoke hearts in a shallow pan in vegetable oil and cover them to simmer slowly. Let them cook for 10 minutes adding some water if necessary. If the hearts are frozen, follow the instructions on the package before adding the herbs and spices.
While they are simmering, wash the coriander and trim the leaves from the stems and chop them finely on a wooden board. Peel and crush the garlic with a garlic press.
In a separate pan, sauté the garlic with the coriander in 2 tbs vegetable oil, stirring for 5 minutes so as to cook them evenly. Add the garlic and coriander to the artichokes and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Cook them for another 5 minutes then add the fresh lemon juice. Cook for 2 more minutes and remove from the heat. You can serve immediately or at room temperature. This dish can be prepared the day before and refrigerated tightly covered. Remove from refrigerator at least one hour before serving.
Plaki is an Armenian word that means white beans and Jerusalem Armenians refer to this salad by that name. According to Shoshane Hagopian, you cannot have an Armenian meal worthy of the name without plaki. Rich and tangy, it is ubiquitous at Palestinian tables.
300 g (11 oz) white beans, soaked overnight
6 cloves of garlic, whole
2 large carrots, sliced
1 tbs tomato paste Salt
⅓ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup chopped parsley
In a large pot, cook the white beans until they are almost done. Make sure that they still have enough liquid and add the carrots. Lightly fry the garlic in the vegetable oil and add to the beans. Add the tomato paste and stir and let cook for another 30 minutes, adding the parsley for the last 5 minutes of cooking. Remove from heat and let cool. Serve with pot roast or grilled chicken.
Rihawi aubergines, baladi tomatoes and olive oil from the grove sum up in one dish the best that the land can offer. A successful moussaka‘a is enjoyed down to the last bite for the lucky one who gets to wipe out the last trace of sauce with fresh kmaj or tabun bread.
Big rihawi aubergines, about 800 g (1 lb 14 oz)
¾ cup olive oil
3 tbs olive oil
1 big onion
4 tomatoes
1 tbs finely chopped hot pepper
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
½ tsp allspice
½ cup tomato juice
Peel the aubergines and cut across into medium-thin slices. Sprinkle them generously with salt and set them aside for 30 minutes. This procedure is important to reduce the amount of oil absorbed by the aubergines.
Pat them dry and fry them over a medium heat a few slices at a time in hot oil until they are golden. When they are done, remove them from the pan and put them immediately on kitchen paper. It is a good idea to take the time and effort to change the paper towels in order to allow further absorption of the oil.
Preheat the oven to 190° C/375° F/Gas mark 5.
Meanwhile chop the onion into thin slices and set aside. Blanch the tomatoes by soaking them in boiling water for a few minutes to allow for easy paring. Once they are ready, remove the skin and cut them up in coarse chunks. Heat the olive oil in a pan and add the onions. Stir and fry until they are tender and translucent; add the tomatoes, stirring them into the onions, then add salt, pepper and allspice. Add the tomato juice and cook for a few minutes until the sauce is ready.
Put the aubergines on an ovenproof plate and add the tomato mixture; cover with aluminium foil. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove the aluminium foil and bake for another 10 minutes making sure the dish does not get dry. Serve at room temperature.
Hardy and needing little care and water, rosemary grows wild in Palestine, yet its culinary value is underestimated in our kitchens. This is most probably due to the fact that rosemary adorned funeral wreaths before the mass production of flowers and is ubiquitous in cemeteries. But I will not be dissuaded and tend to use this fragrant herb quite often and generously.
5–6 large potatoes
A small bunch of rosemary twigs
3–4 garlic cloves, crushed
¼ cup olive oil
1 tsp salt
White pepper to taste
Wash and peel the potatoes then cut them into thin, round slices. Arrange them in an oven pan that has been greased with olive oil. Wash the rosemary and cut off the head of the twigs where the leaves are most tender and sprinkle them over the potatoes.
In a small bowl, mix the crushed garlic cloves, the salt, pepper and the oil and spoon out the mixture over the potatoes. Place them in a preheated oven at 220° C/425° F/Gas mark 7, and bake for 40 minutes. At this point you might need to add a little oil if you think they are somewhat dry. Bake for another 10 minutes, then put under the grill for a few minutes until they turn golden and crisp.
The fast food of the Middle East, falafel has invaded restaurant menus of all categories in many parts of Europe and America, food kiosks in malls as well as international food festivals. It is nourishing and tasty and can be served with a variety of salads and relishes, in a sandwich, on a plate or as finger food. Chickpeas are a basic ingredient of falafel. In Egypt, broad beans are added to the chickpeas in varying proportions. This recipe calls for uncooked chickpeas that have been soaked overnight or for at least five hours. Although frying in very hot oil is very important to prevent them from disintegrating, I have discovered that the tool used to shape the falafel is as essential for their success.
250 g (9 oz) chickpeas soaked overnight
A handful of coriander leaves, about 12 g (½ oz)
Same amount of parsley
2 hot peppers
1 small onion
4 garlic cloves
1 tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
2 tsp cumin
1½ tsp coriander seeds
Drain the chickpeas properly and dry them with a kitchen towel. The coriander and parsley leaves have to be dried too. Remove the stem and seeds from the hot peppers; if you care for hotter falafel, do not hesitate to add another pepper. Put all the ingredients in a food processor and mash at high speed for a few minutes. The mixture has to be reduced to a pulp, but it will not be smooth.
Knead the mixture and, taking small quantities at a time, shape them into small patties the size of a flat walnut. Otherwise, use a falafel mould if you have one; it is a small version of the hamburger mould. Drop the falafel patties into the very hot oil and turn them over once they turn a deep gold on the bottom side. Remove them with a perforated ladle and place on kitchen paper. Serve hot with a traditional salad, tahineh sauce or garlic yoghurt, or just plain slices of tomatoes, on a plate or as a sandwich in kmaj bread.
Traditionally, Palestinians have used the seeds of coriander because of their slightly fruity taste; in recent years, however, fresh coriander, which has quite a heady aroma, is used more and more. Huge bunches of fresh coriander adorn the stalls in the market places and the shops in early summer and they can be found in the better vegetable shops all year round, which has encouraged its more frequent use in sauces and stews.
For the success of any dish based on okra, it is crucial to buy only the small tender vegetables as the bigger pods can be tough, with an unpleasant texture.
1 kg (2 lb 4oz) okra
4 fresh tomatoes, blanched, peeled and chopped
¼ cup olive oil
4–6 garlic cloves, crushed
½ cup chopped coriander leaves Salt and pepper to taste
Trim the okra around the head as they might have a hard, fibrous crown. After washing them, place them on kitchen paper to dry thoroughly, then fry them lightly in olive oil in two batches. A wok is best for this purpose, otherwise use a large frying-pan. While they are draining on kitchen paper, throw away the remaining oil at the bottom of the wok, wipe it with paper and add a tablespoonful of fresh olive oil, in which you will fry the crushed garlic cloves and the chopped tomatoes. Throw in the okra and cook for 30 minutes. Add the chopped coriander leaves, cook for another 5 minutes and transfer to a fresh bowl. You can serve it hot or lukewarm with kiftah, grilled chops or chicken.
In a country that has lived through hardships and adversity, nothing is wasted and this recipe makes use of the pulp of marrows after they have been hollowed out for stuffing. It is simple and goes very well with lentil soup. I often like to include it in a brunch, especially when the baladi marrows are in season. This recipe can amply serve up to eight persons.
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) pulp of marrows
½ cup chopped parsley
1 small onion
2 garlic cloves, peeled
1¼ tsp salt
⅓ tsp pepper
½ tsp allspice
A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
¼ tsp bicarbonate soda dissolved in 1 tbs water
8 eggs
Olive oil for frying
Wash and drain the parsley. Chop the pulp of the marrows on a wooden board and transfer to a glass bowl. Finely chop the parsley, the peeled garlic and the onion and add to the marrow. It is important to do all the chopping by hand in order to avoid a mushy texture; it also avoids the loss of liquid from the vegetables.
Add the spices, the dissolved bicarbonate of soda and the beaten eggs to the bowl, stir well and let it sit covered for 30 minutes before frying.
Put the olive oil to heat in a deep frying pan and fry the ijjeh either in small individual cakes, adding to the pan a few at a time, or as a large omelette.
Tips
If you appreciate this dish, you can try using other favourite vegetables, such as cauliflower or spinach. I like to serve the larger omelettes with a topping of fresh, chopped tomatoes and garlic seasoned with salt and pepper.
There is nothing more agreeable than chatting around the tabun, the traditional clay oven in the backyard of village homes, during the first days of spring when the easterly wind hits dry and spirits are in want of rejuvenation, catching up on the village gossip and discussing plans for the spring, while the marrows and tomatoes are slowly grilling on the last embers of the morning fire. If such a scene has been relegated to days past, the dish is still alive and cooking! A frugal dish that carries memories of the farmyard, the vegetable patch and the tabun is the only way to describe mafghoussa.
Laban jmeed, buttermilk that has been processed and dried for year-round consumption, will add just the flavour to make it extra special. If you prefer the cooler taste of regular unflavoured yoghurt, you will still enjoy it to the last bite!
1 kg (2 lb 2oz) marrows
4 large tomatoes
1½ tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
2–3 garlic cloves, crushed
½– 1 hot pepper finely chopped
1½ cups unflavoured yoghurt
Brown the marrows and tomatoes in the oven for one hour or until the marrows are very soft to the touch. Baste the marrows with a small amount of olive oil halfway through the cooking. Let them cool for 15 minutes and cut the stems off the marrows, peel and chop the tomatoes and mash both vegetables with a fork; you can use a food processor on slow speed for two to three minutes. Add the salt, pepper, crushed garlic cloves, the finely chopped hot pepper and yoghurt and mix well. Serve in a shallow plate and sprinkle with oil.
Serve with grilled chicken or kebab with a bowl of olives on the side.
This dish is delicious served fresh and warm. It refrigerates very well and can be served cold the next day.
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) fresh string beans
120–150 g (4–5 oz) spring onions
2 garlic cloves
¼ cup olive oil
4 fresh tomatoes
2 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
½ cup tomato juice (optional)
½ cup finely chopped parsley
Wash and dry the beans. Remove the string on both sides, cut off the stems and cut up the beans to desired size. Wash and trim the spring onions, cutting off the ends, then chop. Peel and chop the garlic.
In a deep pan, heat the oil and add onions and stir-fry for 3 minutes. Stir chopped garlic into the onions and fry without browning them. Add the string beans and mix carefully, making sure that the oil coats the vegetables in a thin film. Add the salt and spices and cook, covered, over low heat for about 10 minutes. It is possible to add ½ cup of water if you think it necessary.
Meanwhile pour boiling water over the tomatoes for easier peeling. Peel and chop into coarse cubes and add to the pan. Cook for another 20 to 30 minutes, depending on how you like your vegetables done. If you see that the juice from the tomatoes has decreased, add ½ cup of tomato juice and adjust the salt if necessary.
When the beans are tender, remove from heat and add the chopped parsley and stir. Serve warm.
An Armenian dish that is best served cold, it requires delicate simmering for 40 minutes on the stove top without disturbing the ingredients. It is easy to prepare and a perfect accompaniment to cold meats.
4 artichokes
4 small potatoes
4 small onions
3 carrots
Freshly-squeezed
lemon juice
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Flour
3–4 cloves (optional)
Wash the artichokes and peel off the leaves around the base with a sharp knife. Cut off the upper part and core the centre clean. If the artichokes are big, the bottom will be wide enough to hold quite a large amount of stuffing. Soak them in water laced with lemon juice while you prepare the rest of the vegetables, as this will keep them freshly green.
Peel and wash the rest of the vegetables. Cut the potatoes and carrots in thin slices and slice the onions finely. Layer the potatoes and carrots on the artichokes, top with the onions and place in one layer in a large pot. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the lemon juice and oil. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of flour over the top and simmer for at least half an hour checking the liquid and, if necessary, adding a small amount of water in order to allow for further cooking. When the artichokes are cooked, remove from heat and let cool. Transfer to a serving plate.
Two or three whole cloves, added to the pot, will add a rich warm flavour to the taste of this straightforward, simple dish.
This dish, light and pleasant, can be prepared in a jiffy. I like to cook it in a wok, quite my favourite utensil for cooking many of the vegetable dishes, as well as some meat dishes such as shawerma.
1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) marrows
4 garlic cloves, mashed
¼ cup olive oil Salt and pepper to taste
Slice the marrows lengthwise into julienne strips. In a frying pan or wok, heat 2 tablespoonfuls of the oil and add half the garlic and marrows and stir-fry for 8 minutes. Remove to a plate and repeat with the rest of the quantities. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve with a meat dish or as a side dish containing rice, such as fattet djaj.
The versatile use of this dish explains its presence at tables at different times of the day. It is an interesting addition to a brunch. To supplement its nutritional value, stir two eggs in with the tomatoes at the last stage of the cooking, add a dash of salt and pepper and sprinkle with some olive oil. And serve a mouthwatering country-style treat that Bethlehemites call m’thawarah!
4 large tomatoes, peeled and skinned
4 garlic cloves
2 tbs olive oil
¾ tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
½ tsp allspice
Pour boiling water over the washed tomatoes and allow them to sit for a few minutes until you are able to remove the skin easily. Remove the skin and slice the tomatoes on a wooden board, making sure not to waste the juice.
Peel and chop the garlic coarsely.
Heat the oil in a shallow pan or wok and add the garlic. Quickly fry the garlic and add the slices of tomatoes, spreading them over the bottom of the pan.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and leave to cook for five minutes. Serve immediately.
The best way to cook Swiss chard is to separate the stem from the leaves, which cook very quickly. You can save the stems for soup or to prepare a salad: cook the stems in salted water and when they are cooled add lemon, oil, salt and pepper and whole basil leaves. The leaves are a real delicacy and are best prepared with onions.
1 kg leaves from Swiss chard, washed, dried and coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 large onion
3 tbs olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Chop the onion finely and fry in the oil in a medium-sized pan until it becomes translucent. Add the crushed garlic and stir for a minute or two. Then add the coarsely chopped leaves. Stir and cook over low heat for a few minutes until the leaves wilt. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve.
