Sailing the seas
Seafood and fish
The Arabian Sea breeze carries with it the warm, salty promise of my hometown, Karachi. Pakistan’s coastline is unexplored by most, leaving an absence in many minds of its captivating beauty and abundant seafood. Karachi is the largest Pakistani port and is a haven of edible treasures, from both the briny sea water and the fresh Indus River which flows into it.
My early years were not conventional. I spent much of my childhood growing up on a cargo vessel captained by my father. My passion for the sea, for food and for cooking all began there. Food was my main connection to reality and home in this surreal life. My mother never stopped cooking onboard, making everything from cakes to seafood biryani, all in one electric frying pan. Being on a boat for months on end, there was little understanding of the provenance of food, but certain moments would bring it to life. I remember catching the flying fish that leapt on to the ship’s lower deck, quickly coating them in salt and crushed red chillies, and flash frying them… a pure flavour of the ocean.
Most coastal-living Pakistanis buy seafood either fresh from the bazaar (where fisherman sell their catch in the early hours), or from a fisherman’s home-delivery service. That might sound like a luxury, but it’s the best and most cost-effective way to get the finest seafood. Large jute baskets filled with ice are topped with fresh, seasonal fish, gutted and prepared to personal liking, then delivered to your house directly.
The Arabian Sea is criss-crossed with ancient trade routes that brought invaders, religion and travellers over many centuries to Pakistan. It’s no wonder the country’s coast has such an eclectic cuisine. My seafood recipes are not only inspired by the bounty of fresh lobsters, king prawns and other seasonal catch, but the diverse communities who cooked them.
◁ Spicy crabs
As a teenager I’d take weekend trips to Kemari jetty for a night-crabbing cruise with friends. Once out of the harbour, we would throw lines in and ‘fish’ our crabs for dinner. The boatmen then served up a feast of fresh ‘tawa’ (pan) cooked crabs with red chilli masala mopped up with naans. The rustic presentation and simplicity of the spices is deeply etched in my mind, and though the boatmen would never share their recipe, I have created this from memory.
Preparation 15 minutes | Cooking 2–4 minutes | Serves 2–4
2 bay leaves
2–3 dried red chillies
1 tsp each dry-roasted cumin and coriander (cilantro) seeds
3–4 tbsp sunflower oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
juice of 1 lemon
salt, to taste
1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
1 crab, humanely killed by your fishmonger, steamed and claws detached
To garnish
lemon wedges
fresh tender coriander (cilantro) leaves with stems, chopped
First make the ground spice blend by grinding the bay leaves and red chillies with the cumin and coriander seeds in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle until finely ground.
Heat the oil in a sauté pan with a lid over a medium heat. When hot, add the garlic and stir-fry for 2–4 minutes until light brown. Add the ground spice blend with the lemon juice and stir-fry for 2 minutes until the oil begins to rise to the top. Don’t let the garlic and spices burn – you may need to add a few splashes of water to prevent this from happening.
Add salt to taste and the Kashmiri chilli powder and cook for a further 2–3 minutes. Add the steamed crab and stir through. Cover with the lid, reduce the heat to the lowest setting and heat through for 3–4 minutes, not any longer.
Garnish with lemon wedges and chopped coriander leaves, and eat with naan.
◁ Lahori fish
In chickpea batter and ajwain seeds
Summer holidays spent with my cousins in Lahore were always a food adventure. This is a city that never stops eating, and one of the most authentic street meals from Lahore’s foodie hotspot is this lightly battered chickpea flour fish. The trick to a crispy coating is dipping the fish in rice water (that’s the starchy water that’s drained off after boiling rice) instead of tap water. An alternative is to mix a teaspoon of cornflour in tap water for a similar effect.
Preparation 20 minutes | Cooking 10–15 minutes | Serves 4–6
4–6 haddock fillets
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp salt
100g/3 1/2 oz/generous 1 cup gram flour
2 tbsp rice flour
1 tsp dry-roasted cumin seeds
1/2 tsp ajwain (carom seeds)
1/2 tsp red chilli flakes (or more if you like)
100ml/3 1/2 fl oz/scant 1/2 cup rice water (made by boiling 1 tbsp of rice in 120ml/4 fl oz/ 1/2 cup water, straining and reserving the water, or 100ml/3 1/2 fl oz/ scant 1/2 cup water mixed with 1 tsp cornflour/cornstarch)
50ml/2 fl oz/scant 1/4 cup corn oil
Rub the fish with the lemon juice, turmeric and 1/2 teaspoon salt.
Mix the gram flour, rice flour, cumin, ajwain, red chilli flakes and remaining salt together in a bowl. Pour the rice water into another bowl. Dip the fish into the dry gram flour mix, then in the rice water and repeat again. Continue until all the pieces of fish are covered.
Heat the oil in shallow frying pan over a medium heat and fry the fish for 4–5 minutes on each side until cooked through with a crisp coating. Serve hot with lemon slices.
Kitchen secret
To get a really crisp coating, begin by patting the fish dry with kitchen paper to remove all the non-starchy moisture before dipping into the starch water. If your fish is a little smelly, rub some white vinegar on the fish then rinse under cold running water and pat dry with kitchen paper before coating.
◁ Green masala fish in banana leaves
The Gujarati-speaking Parsi community in Pakistan have a distinct flavour to their cuisine. This is a classic recipe that only seems to vary ever so slightly from one Parsi home to the next. It’s a recipe I picked up from friends growing up. You can use a whole fish, or pieces; you can cook the fish on the barbecue, you can shallow-fry, or steam the banana-leaf parcels in a steamer.
Preparation 15 minutes + 1 hour marinating | Cooking 10–15 minutes | Serves 4
4 skinless haddock fillets about 10–13cm/4–5 inches in length
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
juice of 1/2 lemon
5 tbsp green chutney see here
4 pieces of fresh banana leaves
3–4 tbsp vegetable oil
Rub the fish with salt, turmeric and lemon juice. Put the chutney in a large bowl, add the fish and turn to coat. Cover and leave the fish in the chutney to marinate for about 1 hour.
Cut the banana leaves into squares large enough to enclose the fish. Place the fish in the middle of the square, making sure the marinade is covering the fish, then fold and close up using kitchen string or toothpicks.
Heat the oil in a shallow pan with a lid over a medium heat. When hot, reduce the heat to low, add the fish parcels, cover with the lid and cook for about 3–4 minutes. Uncover and cook for a further 4–6 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through.
Serve with plain basmati rice.
Kitchen secret
If you can’t find banana leaves then use foil instead. Gently steam the fish parcels in a steamer or bake in a hot oven.
◁ Squid, mussel and prawn biryani
Whenever I make this I’m immediately transported to the silver sands of Seaview Beach in Karachi where I would often devour a picnic of seafood biryani with my hands while enjoying the afternoon sun. The flavours of this biryani are unique due to the green chutney, which infuses the seafood with freshness and flavour. The addition of lemons with the saffron sets off the herbs in the curry base.
Preparation 20 minutes + 1 hour soaking | Cooking 40–45 minutes | Serves 6–8
300g/10 1/2 oz/2/3 cups basmati rice
1 tsp saffron threads
20ml sunflower oil
10 cloves
10 black peppercorns
5cm/2-inch cinnamon stick
5 green cardamom pods
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp coriander (cilantro) seeds
1/2 tsp ajwain (carom seeds)
2 large red onions, finely chopped
2.5cm/1-inch piece ginger, peeled and grated
2 garlic, cloves puréed
150g/5 1/2oz green chutney see here
salt, to taste
200g/7oz/scant 1 cup whole Greek yogurt
5–6 tbsp water
4 king prawns (shrimp), with shells on
1 squid, cleaned and cut into rings
handful of fresh mussels
2 tbsp rose water or kewra (screwpine extract)
1/2 lemon, cut into thin round slices
10 mint leaves
1 tbsp ghee, melted see here
Wash the rice and soak in a bowl of water for 1 hour, then drain, par-boil and drain again. Soak the saffron threads in a bowl of boiled water for 10 minutes.
Heat the oil in a deep saucepan over a medium heat. When hot, add the whole spices and fry for 30 seconds or so until they pop. Add the red onions and cook for 7–10 minutes, or until golden brown.
Reduce the heat to low, add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry for about 20 seconds, or until the raw smell disappears and the garlic and ginger start to brown. If they are burning add a couple of splashes of water.
Mix the green chutney, salt and yogurt together in a bowl. Add to the pan with the red onion mixture, then stir and cook over a low heat, stirring occasionally, for 15–20 minutes, or until the oil rises to the top. If the curry is too dry, add the water and stir. Keep simmering over a low heat until the curry is a medium green colour with oil floating on the surface. Turn the heat off. The curry should be a thick consistency. If it is not, continue to cook for a few minutes without a lid.
Put the prawns, squid and mussels on top of the curry. Spoon the drained rice evenly over the seafood and curry, then pour the saffron and rose water around the top of the rice. Arrange the lemons and mint leaves here and there into the rice.
Pour the melted ghee over, cover the pan with a large piece of foil firmly around the edges, then tightly cover with the lid. Turn the heat to very low and cook in its own steam for 8–10 minutes. Turn off the heat and, using a fork, gently mix the rice with the seafood and curry. Serve hot with raita.
◁ Fish kofta curry
These koftas can be eaten on their own, or added to this lightly spiced tomato sauce and served with rice. They’re beautiful when made using any white fish, but they can also be made with salmon if you prefer.
Preparation 25 minutes | Cooking 35–40 minutes | Serves 6
For the koftas
150g/5 1/2oz white fish (haddock or cod) fillets, steamed and flaked with a fork
2 tbsp breadcrumbs
3 tbsp cooked, mashed potato
1 tsp dry-roasted cumin seeds
1/2 tsp ajwain (carom seeds)
1 tsp salt, or to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves
6 mint leaves, finely chopped
1/2 green chilli, finely chopped
1 tbsp tamarind paste (or homemade pulp, see here)
3 tbsp semolina
1 egg, whipped
5 tbsp vegetable oil, for frying
For the curry
4 tbsp coconut oil or vegetable oil
1 tsp coriander (cilantro) seeds
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp nigella seeds
7–8 fresh curry leaves
1 red onion, finely chopped
1/2 tsp each of grated ginger and crushed garlic
3–4 tomatoes, finely chopped
1 tbsp tomato purée
1/2 tsp salt, or to taste
1/2 tsp red chilli powder
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
To garnish
handful of fresh tender coriander (cilantro) leaves with stems, chopped
4–5 mint leaves, chopped
To make the koftas, combine all the ingredients, except the semolina, in a bowl by hand, squeezing the ingredients together so they hold.
Spread the semolina out on a plate. Take about 1 tablespoon of the fish mixture and, using your hand, roll into golf ball-sized ball, then roll in the semolina and place on a plate. Continue until all the fish mixture has been used up.
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, reduce the heat, add a few fish balls at a time and cook for 3–5 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
To make the curry, heat the oil in a saucepan with a lid over a medium heat. When hot, add the spices and cook for 30 seconds or so until they pop. Add the onion and cook for 7–10 minutes until light brown. Add the ginger and garlic and fry for a few seconds until light brown.
Add the tomatoes and tomato purée, salt, red chilli and turmeric and cook, stirring, and adding a few splashes of water if the juice from the tomatoes runs dry. Continue to stir-fry until the oil rises to the top and you’re left with a thick sauce, about 3–5 minutes.
Once this sauce is cooked, pop in the fish balls and, using a spoon, gently coat in the sauce. Reduce the heat to very low, cover the pan with the lid and simmer for 3–4 minutes, or until the fish balls are heated through.
Garnish with chopped coriander leaves and mint and serve with rice.
Sindhi barbecued fish
Tossed in rice flour
This recipe is inspired by a dish from the Sindh province using palla (a type of fish rarely found outside South Asia), which is coated with a delicious crusty blend of spice. You can use fillets of white fish such as plaice, haddock or coley. And you can also try using the spice mix on a whole fish before baking or frying.
Preparation 10–12 minutes | Cooking 10–15 minutes | Serves 4
1 tbsp coriander (cilantro) seeds
2 tsp fennel seeds
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1cm/ 1/2-inch cinnamon stick
1 tsp salt
2 garlic cloves
2 red chillies, deseeded
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp chilli powder
juice of 1 lime
2 tbsp rice flour
2 tbsp water
4 large white fish fillets such as plaice or haddock
50ml/2 fl oz/scant 1/4 cup vegetable oil, for drying
Grind the coriander seeds, fennel seeds, bay leaf, cumin seeds and cinnamon together in a spice grinder until finely ground. Add about 2 teaspoons of this spice blend to a mortar and pestle with the salt, garlic, red chillies, turmeric and chilli powder and grind into a fine paste while adding lime juice to moisten. Add the rice flour and the water and mix together into a thick paste. Put the paste into a large shallow bowl, then add the fish and turn until the fish is coated all over with the paste.
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, reduce the heat slightly to medium low, add the spiced fish and fry for 4–5 minutes on each side. You should have a thick crispy crust on each side. Carefully remove the fish from the pan and drain on kitchen paper before serving.
Fish tikkas
With turmeric and Kashmiri chilli
Ajwain (carom) seeds and fish are a perfect match. and these tikkas should be made using a firm white fish such as cod and cooked on the barbecue or under the grill.
Preparation 10 minutes + 30 minutes marinating | Cooking 15 minutes | Serves 4–6
juice of 1 lemon
1/2 tsp red chilli flakes
1 tsp dry-roasted coriander (cilantro) seeds
1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
3/4 tsp ajwain (carom seeds)
1/2 tsp dry-roasted cumin seeds
1/2 tsp garlic purée
1/2 tsp ginger paste
2 tbsp whole Greek yogurt
1 tbsp chopped mint
150g/5 1/2oz firm flesh white fish cubes
3 tbsp mustard oil or vegetable oil
Make the marinade by combining all the ingredients except the fish and oil together in a large bowl. Add the fish, turn to coat, cover and allow to marinate in the fridge for about 30 minutes.
Light a barbecue or indoor grill. Brush the fish with mustard or vegetable oil, and grill for 3–5 minutes on either side until it is caramelised and light brown around the edges.
Serve with red onion, green chilli and radishes and a squeeze of lime, if you like.
Lemon pickle fish
Preparation 10 minutes (if using pre-made pickle) | Cooking 10–15 minutes | Serves 4
1 pickled lemon see here or 1/2 lemon boiled in water until skin is soft (about 1 hour)
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder
1 tbsp mustard oil
1/2 tsp dry-roasted cumin seeds
1/2 tsp dry-roasted coriander seeds
4 halibut, sole or sea bass fillets (without skin)
50ml/2 fl oz/scant 1/4 cup vegetable oil (if frying fish)
If you want to grill the fish, rather than griddle or fry it, preheat the grill to high.
Pound the pickled lemon, if using, in a mortar and pestle until soft and pulpy. If using boiled lemon, cut the peel into tiny pieces. Add all the remaining ingredients except the fish and oil, mix together and smear over the fish to coat.
Depending on your cooking method of choice, add the oil and then heat the griddle pan or frying pan. Grill, griddle or fry the fish for 10 minutes, or until light golden and crisp around the edges.
◁ Mummy’s whole fish
With spiced red onion and tomato topping
A whole fish (or fish steaks) topped with spiced tomato and red onion is a quick and delicious way to add Pakistani flavour to seafood – this one is a staple in my mother’s home. You can use red snapper, mackerel or rainbow trout (whole or in fillets), or halibut or hake works just as well.
Preparation 15–20 minutes | Cooking 20 minutes fillet, 50 minutes whole fish | Serves 3–4
1 whole gutted red snapper (or fish of your choice)
juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
5–6 tbsp vegetable oil
1 1/2 tsp cumin seeds
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 red onions, cut into rings
1/2 tsp ajwain seed
5 large tomatoes on the vine, chopped
1 tbsp tomato purée
To garnish
1/2 bunch of coriander (cilantro) leaves, roughly chopped
2 green chillies, finely chopped
2.5cm/1-inch piece ginger, peeled and cut into julienne
juice of 1/2 lemon
Rub the fish with lemon juice, salt, chilli powder and turmeric. Place on a plate, cover loosely and set aside until ready to cook.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, add the cumin seeds and allow to splutter for 30 seconds. Add the garlic and cook for a few seconds; do not allow to burn. Add the onions and cook for 10 minutes, or until slightly caramelised.
Add the ajwain seeds and chopped tomatoes and cook for 5–6 minutes, or until the tomatoes are soft and the oil rises to the top. Add the tomato purée and cook for a further 3–4 minutes until everything is red and bubbly. Turn off the heat.
Top the fish with this tomato mixture, then place the fish in a large baking dish, cover with foil and cook in the hot oven for 45 minutes if the fish is whole, 15–20 minutes if the fish is in pieces. Check to see if the fish is cooked through. For the last 4–5 minutes remove the foil and allow the topping to caramelise.
Garnish with chopped coriander, green chilli, ginger julienne and a squeeze of lemon and serve hot.