21
Cathedral Lake
Mount Tallac, at more than 9,700 feet in elevation, dominates nearly every South Lake Tahoe vista. It’s also a powerful presence on the hike to Cathedral Lake, a peaceful tarn cupped among jumbled rock and thick-trunked evergreens that sits at the base of one of the peak’s talus fields.
Start: At the Mount Tallac trailhead parking area off CA 89
Distance: 5.6 miles out and back
Hiking time: 4–5 hours
Difficulty: Strenuous due to an 1,100-foot elevation gain
Trail surface: Dirt singletrack
Best seasons: Late spring, summer, early fall
Other trail users: None
Trailhead amenities: Parking, an informational signboard
Canine compatibility: Leashed dogs permitted
Fees and permits: A free wilderness permit is required and available at the trailhead.
Schedule: Sunrise to sunset
Maps: USGS Emerald Bay CA; a map on the signboard at the trailhead
Trail contact: US Forest Service Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit, Forest Supervisor’s Office, 35 College Dr., South Lake Tahoe, CA 96150; (530) 543-2600; www.fs.fed.us/r5/ltbmu
Finding the trailhead: From the intersection of US 50 and CA 89 in South Lake Tahoe, head north on CA 89 for 4.1 miles to the turnoff for Camp Shelly and the Mount Tallac trailhead. Turn left (west) onto the trailhead road, and drive 0.4 mile to the first fork in the road, signed for the Mount Tallac trailhead and Camp Concord. Go left (southwest) for 0.2 mile to another intersection. Stay straight (right) on FR 1306, again signed for the Mount Tallac trailhead. The parking area is 0.5 mile ahead. GPS: N38 55.283' / W120 04.086'
The Hike
Though separated from the gray-green flanks of Mount Tallac by a narrow glacial valley for most of its distance, every foot of the trail to Cathedral Lake is shadowed by the mountain’s daunting ramparts. The elevation gain is significant, but the climbing is never painfully steep and is mitigated by great views, shade, and a convenient refueling locale at Floating Island Lake, a tarn surrounded by a thick yellow pine forest that makes a logical turnaround spot for a shorter hike. Cathedral Lake is set above and beyond, in a talus-rimmed bowl near treeline on the mountain’s southeast flank.
The trail begins by climbing through sunny scrubland scented with sage. Ascend a couple of switchbacks and wonderful views open of Fallen Leaf Lake below (east), and Lake Tahoe, behind and to the north.
The views improve atop the narrow ridgeback of the lateral moraine separating Fallen Leaf Lake from Mount Tallac, with the trail cruising along the spine of the moraine through Jeffrey pine and mountain hemlock. Drop off the ridge into a drainage, where the views are abandoned for shade.
Cathedral Lake stills in the morning light.
The trail roller coasters through forest and gully as it veers north. Climb up to and then alongside the creek that issues from Floating Island Lake. Pass the Desolation Wilderness boundary, then hitch up a final stretch to the flat, quiet shoreline of the little wooded lake. Take a break, then continue along the path, which skirts the south shore of Floating Island Lake.
At the edge of a small talus field just above Floating Island Lake, the trail veers right (west), resuming the climb via a short staircase composed of blocks of granite. Cross a small meadow and a creek (stay left on the main trail); beyond, the route traverses a hillside strewn with wildflowers and butterflies in early summer.
Drop to a second creek crossing, then meander up to the junction with a trail that descends to Fallen Leaf Lake. Stay right (southwest), climbing a last pitch up to Cathedral Lake. Rest on the shores of the small tarn, then return to the trailhead by the same route.
Miles and Directions
0.0Start up the trail behind the informational signboard.
0.7Reach the top of the lateral moraine, with views down to Fallen Leaf Lake and Lake Tahoe, and up to Mount Tallac.
1.2Drop off the moraine.
1.8Climb up along a creek to the boundary of the Desolation Wilderness.
1.9Arrive at Floating Island Lake.
2.5Cross a streamlet and stay right (west) around the talus field.
2.7Arrive at the signed junction with the trail to Fallen Leaf Lake. Stay right (south) and up on the Mount Tallac Trail.
2.8Arrive at Cathedral Lake. Rest, then retrace your steps.
5.6Arrive back at the trailhead.
Options: If you have the will and strength, you can make the steep climb to the summit of Mount Tallac (9,735 feet; about 2.4 miles beyond Cathedral Lake). The trail also connects with other routes in the Desolation Wilderness, including a trail leading to Gilmore Lake and Glen Alpine.
Hike Information
Local information: For information on lodging, restaurants, and activities in South Lake Tahoe, look to the Lake Tahoe South Shore Chamber of Commerce. The chamber is located at 169 US 50, 3rd Floor, Stateline, NV 89449; call (775) 588-1728; visit www.tahoechamber.org. Or visit www.tahoesouth.com.
Camping: While camping at Cathedral Lake is less than inviting, given the rocky terrain, backcountry campsites are available at other destinations in the Desolation Wilderness. Backpackers must obtain permits to camp in the wilderness, with 50 percent of the permits available in advance and the remainder distributed on a first-come, first-served basis. A fee is charged. Be sure to observe wilderness regulations, which limit groups to twelve individuals, require campsites to be situated at least 100 feet from any water source, and request that proper precautions be taken to protect foodstuffs from black bears. For more information and permits contact the forest service’s Lake Tahoe Basin Management Unit by calling (530) 543-2600 or visit www.fs.fed.us/r5/ltbmu.
Stately pines and talus border Cathedral Lake.