| Start | Lukla (2840m/9318ft) |
| Finish | Namche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft) |
| Distance | 18.5km (11½ miles) |
| Total ascent | 1240m (4070ft) |
| Total descent | 670m (2200ft) |
| Time | 2 days (plus 1 day in Namche) |
| Max altitude | 3410m (11,188ft) (Namche Bazaar) |
| Min altitude | 2565m (8415ft) (bridge at Thado Koshigaon) |
| Altitude gain | 570m (1870ft) |
Connected with Kathmandu by regular flights, and situated at an altitude of 2840m (9318ft) on a high terrace above the Dudh Koshi, Lukla is the place where most trekkers start their journey in the Everest Region. Flying here saves at least three days of walking (this will decrease as the road from Salleri is under construction) and a full day by jeep or bus on a bumpy road. Starting from Lukla enables a fairly fit trekker to complete the walk to Everest Base Camp or Kala Patthar and back in 11 days at a reasonable pace, assuring proper acclimatisation. It also opens the Everest Region’s trekking opportunities to those whose time is even more limited, or who are not ready for a trek at high altitude – Namche Bazaar, which is just two days’ walk from Lukla, enjoys fantastic views of Everest and Lhotse among many others, and could be the destination for a short and relatively easy trek. Indeed, often referred to as the ‘Everest View Trek’ with the highest point in Namche or Pangboche, this is on offer by some trekking agencies. However, for most visitors this trek from Lukla to Namche Bazaar forms part of a longer adventure to EBC or Kala Patthar (Trek 3), Gokyo (Trek 4) or even the Three Passes (Trek 5).
Lukla to Namche Bazaar is usually completed in two days and can be started on the day of arrival from Kathmandu, but as on higher sections of the route, it is important to be mindful of the altitude. The start in Lukla is at an altitude where acclimatisation begins to matter (see ‘Altitude sickness’) and Namche is at an elevation where altitude sickness may even prevent you from going higher. As there is a significant height gain between Jorsale and Namche without any option to sleep between the two places, it is vital to stay in Namche at least two nights. That is what most trekkers do.
| Start | Tribhuvan International Airport, Kathmandu (1338m/4390ft) |
| Finish | Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla (2845m/9334ft) |
| Distance | 135km (84 miles) |
| Time | 35min |
The domestic terminal of the Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu is in a separate building from the international terminal. Airlines require passengers to check-in 1hr 30min before their flight is due. It is strongly recommended to arrive no later than that, preferably earlier – around 2hr before the flight. There are extra security measures at this airport and the terminal gets crowded in the peak season mornings with numerous passengers heading for Lukla as well as setting off for the Everest view flights.
All luggage will be x-rayed and your printed ticket along with passport checked at the gate leading into the terminal. Individuals without a ticket for one of the upcoming flights are not allowed inside the terminal. Make sure you receive a security-check sticker placed on your check-in bag. No oxygen or gas cylinders are allowed in the aircraft. In addition to the usual regulations regarding check-in luggage, you are not allowed to have any spare standard AA or AAA batteries in your hand luggage, although such batteries in a camera, GPS, etc or in check-in luggage are fine. If in doubt, ask at the check-in counter. Keep your check-in luggage slip as it will be necessary when collecting your bags on arrival at Lukla. There is a small cafeteria in the waiting hall at the domestic terminal in Kathmandu, but you are recommended to have a bread roll or some fruit with you in preparation for possible flight delays.
Lukla airport with a Tara Air aircraft taking off on a clear autumn morning
Lukla’s airport is often listed among the world’s most dangerous or challenging for a pilot. Inspired by Sir Edmund Hillary, and built in 1964 with the assistance of the Himalayan Trust, it opened for commercial flights in 1971. Located on a mountainside some 700m (2297ft) above the floor of the Dudh Koshi’s valley, the runway is just 20 metres wide and 527 metres in length (66 x 1729ft) with an up-slope gradient of nearly 12% assuring a quick decrease in speed on landing, and helping the aircraft to reach the required speed for take-off before the runway’s end where the slope drops steeply towards the river. It was renamed the Tenzing-Hillary Airport in honour of the two great climbers, shortly after Hillary’s death in 2008. Only helicopters and small short take-off and landing (STOL) aircraft with a limited capacity of 20 passengers may use it.
Operation of the airport is weather-dependent. The fixed-wing aircraft on the regular route between Lukla and Kathmandu do not fly when it is cloudy above Lukla. Even if the weather in Kathmandu is perfect, no plane will leave the capital unless the captain receives positive weather confirmation from Lukla. As it is usually windy in the afternoons and clouds develop at noon, flights are scheduled for mornings. Delays are frequent and cancellations do happen. You must always be aware that the trip might be delayed for one, two or even more days. Don’t make your ongoing journey plans too tight. If the flight is cancelled you should be accommodated on the first available flight by the same airline, which usually means you would fly the following day after all the passengers scheduled for that day, plus those who were booked for earlier flights on your scheduled day of travel.
Therefore, the earlier your time of departure, the better will be your chance of flying. If possible, try to book the first flight of a particular airline on a given day. These leave Kathmandu shortly after sunrise, and take about 35min. As you can usually take any seat you want, for better views on the way to Lukla it is recommended you sit at the front of the aircraft on the left-hand side. On arrival the plane rests on the tarmac for only a few minutes, in order to offload passengers and their baggage, and reload for the return to Kathmandu.
It’s true that Lukla’s airport is sometimes closed for a few days in a row. At such times the lodges and airport building become packed with irritated tourists. However, cloudy weather and long delays are less likely in the second half of October, in November, April and the beginning of May which are the peak trekking months – as many as 10,000 passengers flew to Lukla on about 1500 flights during October 2014. The author has so far flown to Lukla on eight occasions and the same number from Lukla to Kathmandu, completing all flights to the mountains on the scheduled day and being delayed on the return to the capital only twice.
Several airlines operate the route. Some – including Tara Air and Summit Air (previously Goma) – have a few flights each day including certain aircraft dedicated to this route which will do several additional trips a day in high season. The price is more or less the same for all airlines and was about US$170 for a one-way ticket in 2017. A return ticket costs double. The price usually includes 10kg of checked-in luggage and up to 5kg of hand baggage, with about $1 charged for each kilogram of excess. Limits may apply.
If you are stranded in Lukla for a few days and are desperate to leave, you might try a helicopter. It is significantly more expensive than regular fixed-wing aircraft, but less weather-dependent. Expect to pay around $500 if there are other passengers in the same helicopter. Another option is to walk to Phaplu or Salleri (2–3 days, see Trek 1). There is a road with regular bus or jeep connections with Kathmandu. Phaplu has an airport with regular flights to Kathmandu (ticket prices are similar to those of the Lukla flights). This option will soon become more convenient as the road planned to link Salleri with Surke (about 1hr from Lukla) was under construction at the time of writing.
Tickets for Lukla-Kathmandu flights need to be re-confirmed a day before the flight. Most lodges in Lukla can do the job for you. When visiting Lukla at the start of your trek, it is a good idea to leave a copy of your return ticket at the lodge and book a room for the last night before the flight. Note the lodge manager’s telephone number and call him from Namche on your return. All airlines operating this route have their offices in Lukla. It is possible to buy a ticket there or change the flight date if necessary.
| Start | Lukla (2840m/9318ft) |
| Finish | Phakding (2640m/8661ft) |
| Distance | 7.5km (4½ miles) |
| Total ascent | 190m (620ft) |
| Total descent | 390m (1280ft) |
| Time | 3hr (3hr for the return) |
| Max altitude | 2840m (9318ft) (Lukla) |
| Min altitude | 2565m (8415ft) (bridge at Thado Koshigaon) |
| Altitude loss | 200m (660ft) |
Arriving at Lukla on a clear morning you will see two significant mountains on the other side of the valley. Nupla (5885m/19,308ft) is further up-valley and Karyolung (6511m/21,362ft) rises above the ridge in front of you. The latter belongs to the Rolwaling Himal; first climbed in 1982, it is rarely visited.
Lukla itself is no longer the tiny Sherpa village it was at the time of the first successful expedition to Everest. It is an unprepossessing cluster of guesthouses, lodges, shops and bars with the airport near its southern end. Porters hang around resting between treks or waiting for a new job. Trekkers arriving from Kathmandu stop here just long enough to arrange the necessities, and leave the same day. Those who finish their trek here usually celebrate with dinner at their lodge or at a coffee house or at a bar with pool and music, before catching the flight out next morning.
There are shops where you can buy basic food and equipment, and if you need a porter or a guide and haven’t prearranged one, it is certainly possible to hire one here. Probably the best way to do this is to find a guesthouse where you will stay at the end of your trek, and ask about porters there. See also ‘Trekking with a porter-guide’ and ‘You and your porter’ in this book’s introduction.
It is a gentle walk between Lukla and Phakding, following the Dhud Koshi up-valley, heading north. As Lukla is situated high above the valley floor the first part of the route leads downwards, reaching an altitude of about 2565m (8415ft) before it starts to ascend to Phakding.
Bear in mind for when you have finished your trek and returned to Lukla, that if you want to leave your used – but not totally worn out – boots or clothing, you can either give them to any porters who have been trekking with you, or donate them to the Everest Clothing Bank run with the support of Porters’ Progress UK (www.portersprogressuk.org), located near Lukla airport’s runway, next to Lukla Resort. To get there, walk along the northern side of the runway, aiming downhill. Do not follow the main lane to the right towards Namche, but continue straight down, past the traffic control where you will see the Lukla Resort. Once there turn right.
On arriving from Kathmandu, collect your luggage at the small arrivals hall (you will need the slip you were given at check-in) and leave the airport. Pre-arranged porters should be waiting for you at the arrivals or nearby. Walk around the fencing above the runway, keeping it on your left-hand side. As you reach the airport control tower, turn right along Lukla ’s main street which is lined with lodges and shops. There’s a police checkpoint near the end of the village where you need to show your passport. You will also be asked to list your valuable electronics here – the reason for this seems unclear, but it is said to prevent theft.
In the past, those who trekked with a porter or guide had their TIMS cards checked here (independent trekkers obtained a TIMS card at the checkpoint in Chhamuwa, shortly before entering the Sagarmatha National Park on the next stage). However, in autumn 2017 the TIMS card requirement was lifted for trekkers in the Everest Region and new permits were implemented instead (see ‘Trekking formalities’ for more details). They are obtained at the Khumbu Pasanglhamu Rural Municipality Ticket Checking Counter just before the police checkpoint, on the right-hand side. These permits are checked at the police checkpoint in Lukla and on the other checkpoints further along the route. How long the new system will be in place for, it is hard to predict.
There is a kani – an entrance archway/gate with a chorten or stupa atop – at the end of the village, near to the checkpoint and ticket counter mentioned earlier. As with all the religious structures you will pass on your trek, you should either walk through the archway or pass along its left-hand side. In a tiny building nearby there’s a large prayer wheel – turn it clockwise for the goodwill of all sentient beings as well as for good luck on your trek.
You soon leave Lukla through a gate and descend to another chorten which commemorates victims of a fatal plane accident that occurred here in 2008. The path is wide and clear all the way now, so ignore an alternative route to the left a few minutes after leaving Lukla.
You will pass two or three buildings with a tea-shop just past a little bridge in a side valley, with more houses and fields below the path. Hill Top View Lodge is 40min from Lukla, and about 70 metres beyond it there’s a trail heading left. This is the way to or from Jiri, Salleri and Phaplu (see Trek 1) and is clearly marked for trekkers coming from Namche. A chorten and the Khumbila Guesthouse are found a little further on where another branch of the Jiri trail enters from the left, opposite Ama Dablam Lodge. This is Chheplung (2690m/8825ft), a relatively large village with a gompa (monastery) clinging to a cliff above it. Most trekkers who chose to make the longer trek from Jiri or Salleri (Trek 1), rather than approach Lukla by air, will join the main route here, while those who are on their way back from Namche and plan to walk to Jiri or Salleri should turn here and continue along the route described in Trek 1 in the reverse direction.
A Buddhist temple in Chheplung clings to a rock face
After another 1.5km (30min), cross a suspension bridge above a landslide. Further along the trail you will cross rivers many times on similar bridges. Please be considerate to those who are uncomfortable on such bridges, and resist the temptation to run or jump when crossing. Allow heavily laden porters to cross first, and do not enter the bridge if packed animals are approaching from the opposite side.
You will reach a side valley with the lodges and restaurants of Thado Koshigaon (Thadokoshi) in another 500 metres (20min).
On a clear day Kusum Kanguru (6367m/20,889ft) can be seen at the head of the valley. It is a very difficult mountain whose main summit was climbed solo in 1981 by New Zealander, B Denz. On show from Thado Koshigaon is the mountain’s 1400m (4593ft) high South-West Face, first climbed by two Russians (Ivanov and Ruchkin) in 2013.
The bridge over the Tado Koshi Khola is at an altitude of about 2565m (8415ft), making this the lowest point of the entire Lukla–EBC trek. Once over, continue on the main trail up a series of stone steps. There are many restaurants and lodges on the way as you pass through the villages of Ghat and Nurning (Yulning). There’s a gompa about 25min from the bridge. Pass along the left side of the prayer wheels and rotate them clockwise as clearly marked by the lama who lives in the gompa. Likewise, keep left where the trail divides many times, passing chortens and elaborately inscribed mani-walls and stone boulders. The white painted letters are in Tibetan script which reads Om mani padme hum – the principal mantra of Buddhism.
The awe-inspiring south-west face of Kusum Kanguru
A few minutes beyond the gompa you come to the small village of Chhuthawa (2610m/8563ft), and in another 20min note the large Yeti Mountain Home, which belongs to a group of high-quality, high-priced lodges.
Continue to Phakding (2640m/8661ft), a relatively large village situated on both banks of the Dudh Koshi connected by a long suspension bridge . It’s the first overnight stopping place for most group trekkers. There are a few lodges on the true left bank of the river and two or three big ones on the other side. If it’s early and you still feel like walking, it should be fine to continue as there is plenty of accommodation further along the trail towards Namche, with some of the lodges in tranquil sites. As for the altitude, it should be perfectly fine to sleep at around 2800m (9186ft), and as there is a significant altitude gain on the next stage, it should actually aid acclimatisation if you continue for an hour or two up-valley beyond Phakding. Another reason to finish the day somewhere further up the valley is that the earlier you reach the Everest viewpoint on the following day, the better chance you have to enjoy a cloud-free view.
An important monastery is located above Phakding on the western slope of the valley. According to legend, three brothers came to the Solukhumbu from Tibet some 550 years ago and established three monasteries. The Pema Choling Monastery has been moved here from its original location, and is said to be famous for a small statue of the Buddha. Once stolen, it gained weight and proved to be too heavy to be carried across the mountains to Tibet, and was eventually returned to the gompa. The monastery is the main religious centre for all devotees living between Surke (below Lukla) and Jorsale. It suffered extensive damage during the 2015 earthquake but has been rebuilt with support from the Himalayan Sherpa Foundation (HSF). It is a short walk to the monastery from Phakding and the trail starts beyond the village (see the next section). The Panjuing (Pangjung) viewpoint is found above the monastery and according to an information board it takes some 4hr to get there.
| Start | Phakding (2640m/8661ft) |
| Finish | Namche Bazaar (3410m/11,188ft) |
| Distance | 11km (6¾ miles) |
| Total ascent | 1050m (3450ft) |
| Total descent | 280m (920ft) |
| Time | 6–7hr (4–5hr for the return) |
| Max altitude | 3410m (11,188ft) (Namche) |
| Min altitude | 2630m (8629ft) (bridge at Phakding) |
| Altitude gain | 770m (2530ft) |
There are two parts to this section. For 3–3½hrs you will frequently pass villages with many tea- or lunchbreak options. This is the easier part of the day with the path ascending gradually but with a few short steep gradients. At Jorsale (2810m/9219ft), which is a perfect place either for lunch or as an overnight stop for those who did not sleep in Phakding, you will leave habitation for a while. Further on, the route is mostly through forest and is where most of the ascent for this stage is made. Some trekkers will certainly feel the altitude, so it is very important not to hurry – find your rhythm, and walk at a slow, steady pace.
Beyond the main part of Phakding , cross the suspension bridge to the western side of the Dudh Koshi. Pass between two big lodges on the other side and turn right, up-valley. (Note this point for your return to Lukla as it is easy to miss the turn and you may find yourself on a path that continues down the valley on the wrong bank.) The path is clear and the way should be obvious. Pass a bakery and then, 250 metres beyond the bridge, the trail forks. The main route follows the right branch, ascending gradually, while the path to the left climbs steeply towards the Pema Choling Gompa (see previous section). There is an information board at the fork.
A short section through sparse forest brings you to a few more big lodges at Zamphute (2700m/8858ft), 1km and 20min beyond the Phakding bridge. Another path to Pema Choling Gompa turns off here, while the Himalayan Sherpa Clinic (established by the Himalayan Sherpa Foundation), provides basic emergency treatment and is located to the right of the path.
Follow the main route to a side valley where a short steep climb on its far side brings you to the village of Toktok (2710m/8891ft) with its few lodges and restaurants.
One of the waterfalls passed en route between Phakding and Bengkar
A tiny waterfall is passed next, and then the path climbs among trees to gain a view of Thamserku, another six-thousander high above to the right. It will become a familiar sight on the trek to EBC from several different points along the way.
Although it was first climbed in 1964, the South-West Face of Thamserku , viewed here, had to wait until the spring of 2014 when two Russian climbers (Gukov and Lonchinsky) reached the top in an eight-day alpine-style attempt.
From the Thamserku viewpoint it is another 600 metres to the first lodge of Bengkar. Then you pass another small and picturesque waterfall , climb a short slope to another guesthouse and descend to enter the main part of Bengkar at 2720m (8924ft).
Cross the bridge at the end of the village to return to the true left (E) bank of the Dudh Koshi. A few minutes from here, the sacred mountain of Khumbi Yul Lha (Khumbila; 5761m/18,901ft) may be seen up-valley to the north on a clear day. Khumjung village is located directly below the rocky part of the mountain and Namche Bazaar in the basin below that. Neither village can be seen from here, but you can see the trail that carries the route between Namche and Pangboche.
Khumbi Yul Lha has never been climbed, as the deity said to live there is believed by Sherpas to be the main guardian of the Khumbu region. The name means ‘Khumbu country god’, and as with all the protector deities, he must be respected by various rituals that include the burning of incense from local plants. Failure to do so might mean he would cease to protect the land, the local community and its religion.
Khumbi Yul Lha is a sacred mountain for Sherpa people
Chhamuwa (Chhuma) is the next village (2770m/9088ft), reached about 500 metres from the Dudh Koshi bridge. A TIMS card checkpoint used to be here. It was closed when the formal requirements for trekkers were changed in autumn 2017 – whether for good or temporarily remains to be seen. In the past, individual trekkers were able to buy their TIMS cards here. (See ‘Trekking formalities’ for more details.)
A short, steep descent takes you over a small bridge crossing a side stream, beside which there are some traditional watermills. As soon as you negotiate a short climb, you reach Monjo (2850m/9350ft) – another village with a few lodges. The Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint is at the end of the village; if you did not buy an entry permit in Kathmandu, you must buy one here – at present it costs 3390NPR.
Enter through a traditional kani (archway), descend steeply to the first buildings of Jorsale and then cross the Dudh Koshi once more on a suspension bridge that brings you to the main part of the village at 2810m (9219ft). There are several guesthouses and restaurants, and some have pleasant terraces overlooking the river. This is the last opportunity for lunch or accommodation before Namche (3–3½hrs away).
The route returns to the eastern side of the river by another suspension bridge just 100 metres beyond the last building of Jorsale.
The valley forks 1km beyond the bridge. It is the first of three major forks in the valley between Lukla and EBC. The Bothe Koshi flows from the NW (the left-hand side as you approach up-valley). At its headwaters, the Nangpa La is a major pass used as the main trade route with Tibet until it was closed following the Chinese invasion. It was across this pass that Sherpas migrated to Solukhumbu from Kham in eastern Tibet from the 15th century on. The important village of Thame lies up this valley, and the Renjo La is found in its upper part – the last pass on the route of the Three Passes Trek (Trek 5).
Towards the north is the Dudh Koshi with Everest, Lhotse and the famous Khumbu Glacier further up-river. Namche Bazaar stands between the two tributaries, about 600m above their confluence on the western side of the Dudh Koshi. (This confluence marks the boundary of the Khumbu region.)
Once you’ve crossed the second of the Jorsale bridges you have a choice of routes to consider before starting the climb to Namche. The trail to the left is the more frequently chosen option. It stays low near the river, before climbing steeply just past the confluence of the Bhote Koshi and Dudh Koshi, to join with the alternative path at about 2930m (9613ft) where you finally cross the Dudh Koshi to its western side once more by a very high suspension bridge. The other trail from the Jorsale bridge goes straight ahead up stone steps to begin a longer option. This follows a high, undulating route among trees – normally a tranquil walk with fewer trekkers and pack animals. Unless it is late, the author’s favoured route is this second option, as every minute spent at an intermediate altitude seems to aid acclimatisation; on the return to Lukla the shorter alternative may be preferable.
Suspension bridge high above the Dudh Koshi
The two trails combine just before the suspension bridge that stretches some 50m above the Dhud Koshi river. In fact there are two bridges – the other one, rarely used now, is just below you. Once across the bridge, look back (facing SE) and you should be able to see Kusum Kanguru (clouds permitting), while up-valley towards the north, Taboche can be seen – this will be a frequent companion in the days ahead.
It is now time to tackle the long, steep climb that leads to Namche Bazaar. It takes about 45min to reach a place where you will probably want to have a rest. There is a toilet and a few local women sell fruit here, but the real reason to cheer is the first view of Everest for those who began their trek at Lukla.
It is only a narrow view between trees; a long ridge joining Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft) on the right with Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft) on the left. Rising majestically above that ridge – high and monumental – is Everest . Just imagine the scale – you are standing at about 3130m (10,269ft); the lowest point on the ridge is at 7545m (24,754ft) and the top of Everest is more than 1300m (4265ft) above that! The South Summit and the Hillary Step are both well seen if you have binoculars or a tele-lens. If it’s cloudy, hope for better luck on your return.
Trekkers lucky enough to have a clear sky will be treated to this view of Everest
Continue the climb through forest. There is another excuse to stop for a rest 200m higher (35min) at the checkpoint where you need to show both your National Park permit and the Rural Municipality Ticket. Beyond the checkpoint the gradient eases, and in another few minutes you reach the first house of Namche .
The trail forks 100 metres past this house. The right branch climbs steps that lead to the middle part of the village where the main bazaar is located. Take this one if the lodge of your choice is in the upper part of the settlement and you know the way. The left branch curves round a descending ridge and provides an almost complete view of Namche Bazaar, built in a horseshoe with a big stupa and a long mani-wall at the centre. Ahead of you a kani marks the village entrance. Namche’s gompa (monastery) is above you on your left. The trail to the left of the gompa leads to the helipad and eventually to the village of Thame, while the easiest way to Namche’s main market and the upper part of the village is beside the stream on a rising path with recently built fountains and water-driven prayer wheels. The way towards EBC is along that way too and then uphill to the right.
There are so many guesthouse options in Namche, ranging in size and standard, that you’re really spoilt for choice. If the trek from Lukla is your first at altitude this season, remember that you are not yet acclimatised, so it is probably better to stay at one of the lower lodges. Take a good rest and save the experience of roaming the bazaar for tomorrow, when you will have plenty of time. Drink a lot, but avoid alcohol and coffee.
Unless you opt for a helicopter flight, which could probably be arranged at your lodge in Namche, there are no other options for a return to Lukla than to retrace your steps. This can usually be managed in a single, long day with an early start being crucial. If you have arrived early in Namche on the return leg of a trek, it would be better to continue to Jorsale, as this would make the final stretch to Lukla shorter and easier. Jorsale is a pleasant, tranquil place to stay.
If your plan is to fly from Lukla to Kathmandu the following day, remember to reconfirm your ticket. But if you are not flying to Kathmandu, there is no need to go to Lukla. Take the right fork in Chheplung for the way to Jiri, Salleri and Phaplu (see Section 1).
TIME IN NAMCHE BAZAAR
According to the rules for proper acclimatisation, the daily altitude gain for those not yet acclimatised should be no greater than 300m (www.medex.org.uk) or 300–500m (UIAA and ISMM advice) for each stage of ascent above 2500m (8202ft). If this rule cannot be fulfilled, it is recommended to sleep at the same altitude for at least two successive nights. (Refer to ‘Altitude sickness’ in this guide’s introduction for more information on the possible hazards of being at altitude.) Even if you slept in Jorsale, the last point where accommodation was available before Namche, you will have ascended 600m. It is therefore strongly recommended that you spend at least two nights in Namche before setting out for the higher parts of the Khumbu. If you feel unwell (again, see ‘Altitude sickness’ for details of which symptoms are acceptable and which are dangerous), devote the day to a good rest. Otherwise, take a walk to a higher elevation to fulfil one of the golden rules of acclimatisation: go high, sleep low.
A trip to Khumjung, which is a picturesque, traditional Sherpa village, is one option. You could combine it with a visit to the National Park Centre, Sherpa Museum, Hotel Everest View and Khunde, which is another nice village near Khumjung. Another option is a full day’s trek to Thamo and Thame villages.
Namche Bazaar enjoys stunning views. As afternoons are often cloudy, it’s possible that you will have seen nothing spectacular when you arrived. Don’t despair – it might clear up at sunset, and mornings are usually clear, so do not miss the early hours of the day!
When looking south-west from Namche, the mountain with many peaks immediately ahead and on the far side of the Bhote Koshi is Kongde Ri. From the left there’s Nupla (5885m/19,308ft) which you might have seen from Lukla, then right of the long ridge is Shar (Tartikha; 6093m/19,990ft), Lho (Kongde; 6168m/20,236ft) and Nup (6035m/19,800ft). From the upper part of Namche there is one more peak on show up the Bhote Koshi valley to the west – Tengi Ragi Tau (Angole; 6943m/22,779ft). All these mountains belong to the Rolwaling Himal. You might also be able to see the roofs of some buildings high up to the left of Nupla. This is Kongde Yeti Mountain Home, a high-quality lodge which, at 4250m (13,944ft), has one of the most scenic locations on the planet.
Kusum Kanguru (to the south-east) and Thamserku (east) are both clearly seen from Namche across the far side of the Dudh Koshi. However, what you probably wish to see is Everest. And yes, there are places in Namche where it is possible…
Sherpa Museum, National Park Centre, Hotel Everest View and Khumjung
Take the path with the stone steps by the stream from the main stupa at the lowest part of Namche. Rising past the main bazaar, keeping straight and up all the way, you arrive at the Tashi Delek and Moonlight lodges at about 3475m (11,400ft), where the path turns right (still rising). At the fork take the left branch which rises to an important junction. The main route to Khumjung and EBC is the left branch; but ignore this and go straight ahead following signs to the National Park Headquarters. You will pass the Sherpa Saga Sanctuary and Sherpa Culture Museum on your left. It is a private centre which includes a traditional Sherpa house as well as a photographic exhibition documenting Sherpa culture, festivals, and photographs of Sherpa climbers who summited Everest. The place was established by Lhakpa Sonam Sherpa and run by him and his wife Ang Kanchi. Lhakpa Sonam is a fine photographer, many of whose amazing panoramas are on sale in the centre. The place is definitely worth your attention, but you are also recommended to go to the Sagarmatha National Park Headquarters – straight ahead, on the hill – which is a fantastic viewpoint. The earlier you arrive there, the better your chance of having clear and distant views.
As you reach the top of the hill the view opens towards the north along the Dudh Koshi and Imja Khola valleys, with Taboche (Tawetse; 6495m/21,309ft) on the left and Ama Dablam (6812m/22,349ft) – considered by many to be the most beautiful in the region – on the right. Between them, at the end of the valley, is the impressive South Face of Lhotse (8516m/27,940ft), from whose top the ridge stretches left to Nuptse (7861m/25,791ft). The summit of Everest rises behind this ridge, overlooking them all. It would be difficult to imagine a better site for the statue of Tenzing Norgay who, together with Sir Edmund Hillary, made the first successful ascent of Mount Everest and of whom the Sherpas are so proud.
Statue of Tenzing Norgay, with Everest and then Lhotse to the right
To visit Khumjung, return to the major trail junction below the Sherpa Saga Sanctuary, and turn right to follow the main route towards EBC. Soon you will reach a large boulder with mani inscriptions at 3535m (11,598ft). The trail divides again behind it. The route which begins the next stage of the main trail to EBC is to the right, but for Khumjung you climb steeply up the ridge in front of you. The path brings you to the Syangboche airstrip (not in use) after 30–40min. Continue straight on, passing the ‘Sagarmatha Next’ cultural and ecological centre, which was under construction in autumn 2017, up and then slightly to the right to reach the Everest Sherpa Resort located at about 3840m (12,598ft). Take the path to the right at the gate of the guesthouse. Soon a footpath contours to the left (NNE) behind the guesthouse, along the steep slope, high above the main trail leading to EBC. Follow it for about 20min to reach Hotel Everest View (3880m/12,730ft).
Designed by a Japanese architect, the hotel was built in the late 1960s with an enormous amount of effort from porters who carried most of the materials here on their backs (the rest were transported by helicopter); some were imported from Japan. Finally opened in 1971, it was listed in the 2004 Guinness Book of World Records as the Highest Placed Hotel.
Facing the hotel, take the path heading N (left) among rhododendrons and pine trees, along a ridge which soon makes a gradual descent with Khumjung village seen just below on the left. Do not miss the chorten on your right, which is dedicated to the memory of Sir Edmund Hillary, who worked for many years for the well-being of the people of Solukhumbu and is highly respected by the Sherpas.
From the village, the main route to EBC can be accessed near Sanasa by going down-valley to the right. To return to Namche, follow the main street in Khumjung to the left. There are a number of lodges and restaurants along the way. As you are at around 3765m (12,352ft) now, an hour or two spent here before returning to Namche should aid acclimatisation.
Continue along the main street of Khumjung to a stupa and a long mani-wall. The Hillary School, founded by the Himalayan Trust, stands next to it with a statue of its founder and patron. If you continue straight ahead you would reach Khunde – another picturesque Sherpa village, in which the first hospital built with the help of Hillary and the Himalayan Trust is found. For Namche turn left by the mani-wall, and then steeply up to a chorten on a pass on the ridge between Khumjung and Syangboche. This is another great viewpoint at 3845m (12,615ft).
A steep descent soon brings you to the Syangboche airstrip. Continue ahead past two or three houses, and take the left branch at the fork which is just behind them. Namche appears below, and there’s yet another steep descent to reach it.
Lhotse, seen from the pass between Khumjung and Syangboche. Everest is on the left, behind the tree
Thamo and Thame
A visit to the villages of Thamo and Thame in the Bhote Khola’s valley is another option for an acclimatisation day spent near Namche. However, it is not for those who want an easy or restful day: the walk from Namche to Thame takes 4–4½hr over a distance of 9km (5½ miles), involving a gain of 390m (1280ft), about 665m of ascent (2180ft) and 275m (900ft) of descent; while the return will take around 3hr. Therefore a return trip that includes a lunchbreak in Thame (3800m/12,467ft), and a visit to its monastery, would require a full day. Should you plan to cross the Renjo La (see Trek 5) you will be in Thame (Thami) anyway, but the village and the Bhote Koshi valley are worth the attention of other trekkers too. One of the oldest of the Solukhumbu monasteries is located in Thame. There’s another one in Thamo – a village on the way to Thame – and a few more off the main trail nearby, signed from the main route. Those interested in Buddhism could easily spend a few days here. As both Thame and its monastery were among the most severely affected by the earthquake in this region, this could be another reason to visit as by spending time there you help the local community. Most of the lodges have now been rebuilt, so accommodation is available if you have some spare time, either on the way to Kala Patthar and EBC or on the return.
Tenzing Norgay once lived in Thame, and Apa Sherpa (in full, Lhakpa Tenzing Sherpa) was born here. Known as Super Sherpa, Apa climbed Everest for the 11th time in 2000, establishing a new record. Since then he has broken his own record several times, before reaching 21 ascents in May 2011. This was equalled by Phurba Tashi Sherpa in 2013 and to date (January 2017) this latest record has not been broken. Apa Sherpa, who now lives in the US, has also been working to raise environmental awareness, and has participated in a few Eco Everest Expeditions with the aim of cleaning up the mountain. He runs The Apa Sherpa Foundation, which supports education in the Khumbu. At the Everest Summiters’ Lodge in Thame, which apparently belongs to his family, you may see the sequence of Apa Sherpa’s Guinness Book of World Records certificates.
For those well acclimatised, Sunder Peak (Sumdur Peak; 5361m/17,589ft) above Thame is said to be an interesting viewpoint – or rather its south-east summit at about 4900m (16,076ft), as the main summit appears to be both dangerous and difficult.
To reach Thame, go up to the monastery at Namche, and then follow the trail leaving the gompa on your right. The path goes around a lowering ridge and passes near the helipad . From there on you will follow a good path high above the Bhote Koshi, first through forest and then passing through villages further on. Note the significant side valley ahead to the left; Thame sits at the mouth of this valley and you can occasionally see its monastery. At the head of that valley lies the difficult Tashi Labsta La, a 5755m (18,881ft) pass connecting the Khumbu with Rolwaling. The rocky mountain above Thame is Sunder Peak, and Tengi Ragi Tau is the glacier-covered mountain above it.
About 7km (4¼ miles) from the helipad, the path brings you to a bridge over the Bhote Koshi where the river flows through a very narrow, rocky gorge. There are paintings of Guru Padmasambava and Green Tara on the right-hand rock just before the bridge. From here it will take about 30min to reach the main part of Thame, 1.3km away.
There are stunning vistas down-valley from Thame, especially just before sunset. Thamserku is the highlight; Kusum Kanguru, which you should already be familiar with, is to the right of it. Kangtega, a new mountain in view is to the left of Thamserku, and a bit further to the left of that – and visible from some parts of Thame – is an intriguing mountain that looks like a pyramid from this angle. It is Malanphulan whose impressive unclimbed North Face can be seen from the neighbourhood of Ama Dablam Base Camp (see Trek 3, Section 2B).
To return to Namche, retrace your steps.
