It is a real pleasure to write the foreword for a book that features authentic and signature recipes from many of Wisconsin’s legendary supper clubs. For people who have visited one of the supper clubs that submitted a recipe, the book will give them an opportunity to relive a pleasant memory. For people who have never dined in a supper club, reading this book might open a door to future “must-have” experiences.
There are supper clubs in other states, but it is hard to imagine a state that has more of this style of restaurant than Wisconsin. I would even venture to say that Wisconsin is the home of the supper club. Practically every rural town has a supper club that has been in existence for a long time and often is still being run by the family of the original owner. However, supper clubs abound in cities as well. They are just not quite as visible.
As chief executive of the Wisconsin Restaurant Association since 1981, I get many inquiries about restaurants in a particular area from people planning a visit to our great state. Most often they really want to know what a supper club is and where can they find one. I’ve come to the conclusion that the two things on most Wisconsin visitors’ “to-do” lists are dine in a supper club and see Lambeau Field.
The recent resurgence of supper club popularity is easy to understand. For many it is nostalgia, a longing for a time past when life seemed simpler and went at a slower pace. In this era of technology and speed, people sometimes feel disconnected. Well, if a supper club is anything, it is connection. Supper clubs are known for being friendly and welcoming. Typically the owner is always there greeting customers, checking food, making drinks, and talking to people about their travels, family, and the news of the day.
Supper clubs have a lot of regular customers, and if you dine at one more than once, chances are “everybody knows your name.” Historically, the supper club was the average person’s answer, in a way, to the private dining clubs or country clubs.
Then, there is the food. Some menus have been retooled to be more modern, but the essence is still the same. Food is made from scratch and has the “homemade touch.” Much of it is comfort food, the kind that makes your taste buds pop, your stomach warm, and the rest of you feel really good. Key recipes have often been in the family for years: Sometimes they are mom’s, grandma’s, and even great-grandma’s secret recipe.
The drinks are generous and well made. While you can get a cold beer or a glass of wine, the cocktail is king at a supper club. The old-fashioned, Manhattan, gimlet, martini, Bloody Mary, and even the Tom Collins are often the drinks of choice. The bartender knows sports and everything else, including directions. Ask, and you won’t get a blank look. You might get a story as well, but you will get directions.
Mary Bergin is an accomplished author and journalist whose specialties—travel and food—uniquely qualify her to write this book. I first became acquainted with Mary when she called on me for an occasional interview about restaurants and food. I always found her questions stimulating and her conclusions insightful. She didn’t just get the answers to her questions and hang up; she was probing and we conversed. I began to think of Mary Bergin as an expert in dining, and we have commissioned her to write for our Wisconsin Restaurateur magazine. Those articles have included a feature on supper clubs, entitled “Old Fashioned Traditions and New Innovations,” which was well-received by supper club owners and fans of the supper club, like myself.
The selection of supper clubs and recipes in this book gives you a taste of the romantic supper club tradition that is still going strong. While supper clubs are founded on tradition, there’s room for innovation. Supper clubs are not stagnant or a throwback, they continue to modernize and augment traditional favorites to satisfy changing consumer preferences. Some of the newer supper clubs, in particular, are finding the perfect balance between the nostalgic and the contemporary.
Edward J. Lump, President and CEO
Wisconsin Restaurant Association