a
Alloys
silver, 14
Anticlastic cuff project, 180–183
Anticlastic forming, 112–115
Asymmetrical stones, bezel setting for, 131–133
Avoirdupois ounce, 10
b
Ball-peen hammer
about, 103
forging with, 111
Base metals, 12–13
Bench pin, 22
Bezel rockers, 144
Bezel setting
about, 120
asymmetrical stones, 131–133
faceted stones, 134–139
making cup, 126–127
safety precautions, 121
setting stone, 128–130
step-by-step, 122–125
Blades
breaking, 22
inserting in saw, 21
removing, 25
selecting correct, 20
Brass, 12–13
Bronze, 13
Brown & Sharp (B&S) gauge system, 10
Buffing wheels, using, 33–35
Burs, 144
Butt joints, soldering, 56–61
Cabochon gems, 17
Captive stone pendant project, 156–161
Carat, described, 16
Cold connections
fold-over retention, 46–49
riveting, 42–45
Connections. See Cold connections;
Hot connections
Copper, 12
Cross-peen hammer, 102
Cuffs, making
anticlastic, 180–183
synclastic, 178–179
Curves, filing, 30–31
d
Dapping
about, 90
not round shapes, 96–101
round shapes, 91–95
Drilling
safety precautions, 26
step-by-step, 27
tools and equipment, 26
Durgham, Sessin, 211
e
Earrings, making
reticulated, 192–197
stretched diamond, 152–155
Elkin, Beth, 210
Elkin, Rick, 210
Embossing, 72
Erickson, Lexi, 209
f
Faceted gems
about, 17
bezel setting for, 134–139
Filing, 30–31
Finishing
hand, 32–33
mechanical, 33–35
patinas, 36–39
safety precautions, 32, 33, 36, 38
Firescale, 51
Flat-faced hammer, 103
Flex shaft, 26
Flush-set textured ring, project, 198–205
Flush setting, step-by-step, 147–149
Flux, 51
Fold-over retention, step-by-step, 46–49
Forged spiral pin project, 184–191
Forging
about, 102
with ball-peen, 111
curving metal, 106–110
hammers, 102–103
planishing, 104–105
safety precautions, 104
Forming
anticlastic, 112–115
Fusing, 66–67
g
Gemstones
anatomy, 17
measuring, 16
German silver, 13
Gold
history, 6
testing purity, 11
types, 14–15
Goldsmith’s hammer, 72
Gomez, Dennis Lee, 212
h
Hammer face types, 102–103
Hammer textured necklace project, 162–167
Hammer textures, 70–73
Hammers
face types, 102–103
forging with, 111
Hand finishing, 32–33
Heat patina, 38–39
History, 6
Hot connections
annealing, 52–54
butt joints, 56–61
cleaning firescale, 51
fusing, 66–67
rotating for even heating, 127
silver solders, 54–55
soldering and annealing kit, 50–51
soldering different gauges together, 174
sweat soldering, 62–65
i
Inside curves, filing, 31
j
Jerman-Melka, Julie, 207
Jeweler’s riveting hammer, 42
Jeweler’s saw, 20
Joints, tightening, 200
k
l
Leaf pin project, 168–171
Leaves, drying, 74
Liver of sulfur, 36–37
m
Mandrels, 121
Measurements
gems, 16
metals, 10–11
Mechanical finishing, 33–35
Metal overlay, step-by-step, 84–87
Metals
base, 12–13
measuring, 10–11
precious, 14–15
purity, 11
storing, 15
Mohs hardness scale, 16
Moisture, preventing, 175
n
Necklace, making, hammer textured, 162–167
Nickel (silver), 13
o
O’Connor, Harold, 206
Ounce, 10
Outside curves, filing, 30–31
Patinas
heat, 38–39
liver of sulfur, 36–37
Pendants, making
captive stone, 156–161
yin yang, 172–177
Pennyweight, 10
Piercing, 28–29
Pins, making
forged spiral, 184–191
leaf, 168–171
Planishing, step-by-step, 104–105
Planishing hammer, 72
Polishing compounds
mixing, 35
safety precautions, 33
Prong setting
safety precautions, 140
step-by-step, 140–143
r
Red brass, 12–13
Reed, Todd, 208
Reticulated earrings, project, 192–197
Reticulation, step-by-step, 80–83
Ring, making, flush-set textured, 198–205
Riveting, step-by-step, 42–45
Roller embossing
about, 74
safety precautions, 75
step-by-step, 76–79
s
Safety precautions
annealing, 52
anticlastic forming, 112
bezel setting, 121
butt joints, 56
drilling, 26
filing, 30
flush setting, 147
fold-over retention, 46
forging, 104
fusing, 66
general, 6
hammer textures, 70
metal overlay, 84
piercing, 28
prong setting, 140
reticulation, 80
riveting, 42
roller embossing, 75
sawing, 20
synclastic forging, 116
tube setting, 144
Sartin, John, 214
Sawing
preparation, 21–22
safety precautions, 20
straight lines, 23
using templates, 24–25
Scavezze, Jerry, 213
Silver/silver alloys
about, 14
testing purity, 11
Silver solders, 54–55
Sinusoidal stake, 113
Soldering
annealing kit and, 50–51
butt joints, 56–61
different gauges together, 174
silver, 54–55
sweat, 62–65
Spiral pin, making forged, 184–191
Sterling silver, 14
Stretched diamond earrings project, 152–155
Sweat soldering, 62–65
Synclastic cuff project, 178–179
Synclastic forming
about, 112
shape shown, 113
step-by-step, 116–117
t
Templates, sawing using, 24–25
Textured ring, making flush-set, 198–205
Torch and accessories, 50
Touchstone testing, 11
Troy ounce (ozt.), 10
Tube setting, 144–146
Tubing jig/cutter, 42
y
Yellow brass, 12
Yin yang pendant project, 172–177