Detail of Norwich cathedral cloister.
8
Suggestions for Longer Day Trips
There are a few places just a little farther away from London that can be visited in a day if you set off early in the morning, although we have suggested some accommodation options if you decide that two days would provide a more relaxing timescale to see everything they have to offer. The historic city walls of York surround a magnificent Gothic cathedral, the winding half-timbered ‘Shambles’ and an attractive city centre, with several impressive museums, plenty of shopping opportunities, riverside pubs and the legendary Betty’s Tearooms. A 14th-century castle and another impressive cathedral with the largest cloister in Europe can be found in Norwich, a city rich in medieval architecture and only a short distance to the waterways of the Norfolk Broads, which an extended stay would allow you to discover.
Shakespeare fans should find time for a visit to Stratford-upon-Avon, the town in which the Tudor playwright was born and later retired as a wealthy man. If everyone else appears to have had the same idea when you arrive, you can always escape the crowds with a gentle row along the River Avon, although catching a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre shouldn’t be missed.
Norwich
The British author George Borrow described Norwich as “a fine old city,” and you’ll probably agree as you see this beautiful assemblage of many medieval buildings, crowned by a castle and clustered on narrow lanes beneath the spires of a magnificent cathedral and 32 churches from the Middle Ages. By the late 11th century, the small Saxon settlement on the River Wensum had grown into one of the largest and most important cities in England, making its fortunes from wool. Today, remnants of its former glory are plentiful: sections of the old city walls remain, although the city has long since sprawled beyond them, and the medieval quarter is filled with tiny, winding lanes and beautifully preserved medieval buildings.
Given the distance from London, you’ll want to devote a full day to Norwich. If you decide to extend the trip any farther, however, the countryside nearby is full of hidden gems, from the breathtakingly lovely, reed-covered waterways of the Norfolk Broads, to the queen’s summer residence, Sandringham Palace.
Essentials
Visitor Information
The Tourist Information Centre, The Forum, Millennium Plain (
01603/213-999; www.visitnorwich.co.uk), is well-stocked with maps and information. The center is open Monday to Saturday from 9:30am to 6pm (Nov–Mar to 5:30pm) and, in summer, Sundays as well, from 10:30am to 3pm. The shiny, modern Forum building also houses a digital art gallery (free admission).
Scheduling Considerations
Try and time your visit to Norwich to coincide with one of the excellent, and free, guided tours of the cathedral (see “A Day in Norwich,” below).
Getting There
By Train
Trains from London Liverpool St. take just under 2 hours. During the day they leave every 30 minutes; from 6pm to midnight they return every hour. Expect to pay around £45 round-trip on the day; however, the cost drops to £15 if you book just a couple of days ahead. (And sometimes just a few pounds more for a first-class ticket, too).
By Bus
National Express buses ( 08717/818-178; www.nationalexpress.com) leave every hour for the 3-hour ride to Norwich. Expect to pay around £30 on the day of travel.
By Car
From London, head north toward Cambridge on the M11, and turn northeast at the junction with the A11, which takes you into Norwich. Much of the old city is closed to traffic, and so you’ll want to use one of the carparks at the edge of the city center.
Getting Around
The central area of Norwich is easy to navigate on foot. Prince of Wales Road leads to Elm Hill and the cathedral, and the castle is just to the west. There are usually taxis waiting at the train station, or you can try Five Star ( 01603/455-555).
The Norwich 12
No, this isn’t the name of an infamous gang, but of a collection of stunning landmarks from Norwich’s colorful past. Many of the buildings are included in our recommendations for a day in Norwich. Others include the Assembly House, built as an entertainment venue for Georgian gentry in 1755; St. James Mill, a yarn mill from the Industrial Revolution in the 1830s that transformed England (it’s now an office complex); and the Art Deco City Hall, built in the 1930s and called the “foremost English public building of between the wars.” For more information about visiting the Norwich 12, ask for a free booklet at the Tourist Information Centre (see above), housed in the stunning Forum complex, itself one of the “12.”
A Day in Norwich
By far the city’s most impressive sight, and certainly its most visible, is Norwich Cathedral ★★★ ( 01603/218-300; www.cathedral.org.uk), which is considered one of the great engineering achievements of the Middle Ages. The 315-ft. (96-m) spire stretches, finger-like, above the rooftops of central Norwich. Rows of graceful columns support a high vaulted ceiling and rows of arcades, all of it light and airy, and a Romanesque masterpiece. Mirrors placed throughout the nave make it easier to view the 300 bosses of carved stone that are placed at joints in the fan-vaulted ceiling and depict biblical scenes. An enormous cloister, the largest in Europe, was once the province of the more than 250 Benedictine monks for whom the cathedral was the center of a community devoted to worship, hospitality, and learning.
Norwich Cathedral.
The cloister of the cathedral.
Just outside the east end of the church is the simple grave of Edith Clavell, a Norfolk nurse who was arrested and shot in Belgium during World War II for helping Allied soldiers escape, and from there a path continues past the refectory and other monastic buildings to the banks of the River Wensum. Among these medieval buildings is the Great Hospital, founded in 1247 to house paupers, care for the sickly poor (treatments included blood-letting and bone-setting), and dispense a dole of bread and soup. The cathedral is open daily 7:30am to 6:30pm. Guided tours are held on the hour from 11am to 3pm, every day except Sunday. Admission and tours are free, though donations are requested.
Many of Norwich’s medieval houses and monuments are clustered around the cathedral on Elm Hill. Some of the most impressive landmarks on the hill are the Halls ★ ( 01603/628-477; www.standrewshall.co.uk), a medieval friary complex built between 1307 and 1470. In keeping with the Dominican vow of poverty, the flint stone buildings are simple and unadorned and include chapels and halls that, over the centuries, have been used as a granary, a workhouse, and a mint. There’s an antiques market here every Wednesday, and book and record markets on Saturdays. The Halls are open Monday to Saturday, 9am to 5pm (but call ahead—they are often booked for private events). Admission is free.
Medieval buildings line Elm Hill.
The 14th-century Norwich Castle ★ ( 01603/493-625; www.norwich12.co.uk) may be a shadow of its former self—all that remains today is the central stone keep, or fortification—but it’s found a latter-day lease of life as a museum and art gallery. Among the highlights of its collection are items from the so-called Snettisham Hoard of gold and other precious objects, believed in effect to be the crown jewels of the Iceni tribe, who fought the Romans for control of East Anglia 2,000 years ago. The castle is open Monday to Saturday from 10am to 4:30pm and Sunday from 1 to 4:30pm. Admission costs £6.20 adults, £5.30 seniors and students, and £4.40 children.
Two examples of the secular might of medieval Norwich sit beneath the castle. The elaborate, castellated Guildhall ( 01603/666-071) reflects Norwich’s prominence as England’s second-largest medieval city. Most of the building isn’t open to the public, but tours can be booked through the Tourist Information Centre (see above). The Mayor’s Court, with its stained-glass windows and elaborate Renaissance woodwork, is particularly worth seeing. The 600 year-old Dragon Hall ★, on King Street ( 01603/663-922; www.dragonhall.org), is an extremely rare example of a medieval trading hall—possibly the last in Europe. The building takes its name from the 14 carved, wooden dragons that adorned the massive oak beams that span the width of the Great Hall, though only one survives today. It’s open Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm, Sunday noon to 4pm; admission costs £4.50 adults, £4 children, seniors, and students.
The Norman Foster-designed Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts ★★ ( 01603/593-199; www.scva.org.uk) displays paintings by Francis Bacon, Henry Moore, Alberto Giacometti, and others. The collection also includes Art Nouveau works, and pottery and other artifacts from the ancient Mediterranean. The gallery is at the University of East Anglia, on the west side of Norwich, and can be reached using buses nos. 22, 25, and 35. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 5pm (8pm Wed). Admission is free.
Reflection on the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts.
Stay the Night
If you choose to stay the night in Norwich, you might try the DeVere Dunston Hall ★★ (Ipswich Rd., 01603/209955, www.maidsheadhotel.co.uk) has been in business since 1272—Elizabeth I is said to have stayed here. The beamed, low-ceilinged hotel is filled with 15th-century detail, with comfortable rooms and the choice of a convenient nightcap in the pub downstairs (from £90 double). As a budget option, consider the Premier Inn in the town center (Duke St., 0871/5278840, www.premierinn.com). It has big, comfortable rooms and everything you need right in the middle of the action. (Doubles from £60.)
Shopping
The backstreets and alleys of the Norwich Lanes, including Elm Hill and Timberhill, contain a host of intriguing independent stores, selling vintage clothing, gifts, homewares, and books. The Royal Arcade is a picturesque shopping area: Among its offerings is The Colman’s Mustard Shop, 15 Royal Arcade ( 01603/627-889; www.colmansmustardshop.com), selling nostalgic knick-knacks relating to the distinctive local mustard, made here since the 19th century. Opposite the cathedral, the Tombland Antiques Centre, 14 Tombland ( 01603/619-129), houses 60 antique dealers across three floors. Popular, high-street stores can be found in two large shopping centers: The Mall, in the city center on Castle Mall, and Chapelfield, next to the bus station on St. Stephen’s Street. In the town center on Gentlemans Walk near City hall, Norwich Market ( 01603/213537) is a large bustling covered market with nearly 200 sellers peddling everything from food to secondhand goods and clothes. The market has been in operation for centuries – there’s even mention of a market in Norwich in the 1086 Domesday book. Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm.
Vintage tin in the Colman’s Mustard Shop.
Norwich market.
Where to Eat
Housed in a thatched cottage that started life as a medieval women’s refuge, The Britons Arms, 9 Elm Hill ( 01603/623-367), serves freshly prepared light meals and cakes. The equally venerable Adam and Eve ( 01603/667-423), thought to have been an inn since the 13th century, serves basic but tasty bar food, including homemade pies. St. Benedict’s Restaurant, 9 St. Benedict’s St. ( 01603/765-377; www.stbenedictsrestaurant.co.uk), has a delicious but affordable set menu featuring salmon crabcakes and vegetable moussaka (two courses £9.95). After wandering around the cathedral, the Cathedral Refectory, in an airily beamed stone building on the grounds, is a decent venue for a coffee break or small meal. Light lunches such as mixed salads or fajitas are priced from £5.50 to £7.00.
Nearby
Norwich lies at the western edge of the Norfolk Broads ★★★, a vast wetland of marshes and woods that comprise some of the most uniquely beautiful scenery in England. They can be explored by boat, bike, or on foot. Begin at the tourism office at Wroxham, 7 miles (11km) northeast of Norwich ( 01603-782-281; open daily Easter to Oct, 9am–1pm and 2–5pm). For a boat tour, contact Norfolk Broads Direct ( 01603/782-281; www.broads.co.uk); a half-day costs about £8 for adults and £6 for children.
The waterside at Wroxham.
Fourteen miles (23km) north of Norwich, the grand 17th-century Blickling Hall ★★ ( 01603/493-625; www.nationatrust.org.uk) claims to be Britain’s most haunted house. According to lore, Anne Boleyn crosses the grounds in a horse-drawn carriage, severed head in hand. Blickling’s more earthly highlights include the cavernous Long Gallery and extraordinary historic library. It’s open March to October, Wednesday to Sunday, from 11am to 5pm (also Mon in midsummer). Admission is £8.85 for adults and £4.40 for children.
Blickling Hall.
Stratford-upon-Avon
This market town on the River Avon, 91 miles (146km) northwest of London, is a shrine to the world’s greatest playwright, William Shakespeare, who was born, lived much of his life, and is buried here. Stratford boasts many fine and beautifully preserved Tudor, Elizabethan, and Jacobean buildings, but it’s not really a quaint village anymore. If you arrive by train, your first glimpse is of a vast carpark across from the station. Don’t let this put you off. The charms of Stratford’s formerly bucolic setting haven’t been completely lost, and you’ll find plenty of quaint corners as you explore. If the weather is cooperative, you can escape the crowds and float along the River Avon in the company of swans. Besides the literary pilgrimage sights, the top draw in Stratford is the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, where Britain’s foremost actors perform.
There’s so much to see here that, though it’s possible to do it all in a long day, many people prefer to stay overnight so they can take their time.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Stratford’s Tourist Information Centre, Bridgefoot ( 0870/160-7930; www.shakespeare-country.co.uk), provides information and maps of the town and its principal sights. It also has a currency exchange and a room-booking service (open Apr–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–5:30pm, Sun 10am–4pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 10am–3pm).
Scheduling Considerations
All of the Shakespeare properties keep basically the same hours, opening daily between 10 and 11am and closing at 5pm. They open slightly earlier in the summer and close an hour earlier in the winter. The town can be very crowded on summer weekends. Crowds are heaviest from June through mid-September; if you’re visiting during those times, you’ll find the town less congested on weekdays. If you want to see a play at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, book ahead. The theater is closed during October.
Enjoying a Shakespeare Combo
There are five properties in Stratford connected with Shakespeare and if you plan to visit a few, if not all of them, a combination ticket saves you money. It’s priced at £19.50 for adults, £17.50 for seniors and students, and £12 for children. You can purchase the ticket at any Shakespeare property ( 01789/204-016; www.shakespeare.org.uk).
Getting There
By Train
There are two or three direct trains a day from London Marylebone station to Stratford-upon-Avon, but you can travel anytime changing at Birmingham. The journey takes about 21⁄2 hours and tickets start at around £40 for the round-trip. Note that on this route, tickets are significantly cheaper if purchased in advance. You can buy online and collect your tickets at the station.
By Bus
National Express ( 08717/818-178; www.nationalexpress.com) offers a daily express bus service from London Victoria bus station; the trip takes just under 4 hours and costs about £25 round-trip.
By Car
By car from London, take the M40 toward Oxford and then onto Stratford-upon-Avon, leaving at exit 15. Allow 3 hours for the trip.
Getting Around
Stratford is compact and can be explored easily on foot. The train and bus stations are less than a 15 minute walk from the town center. Pop into the Tourist Information Centre to pick up a map. Some of Stratford’s sights are at the edge of town, though, and for these you may need transportation (if you don’t like long walks). Try Main Taxis ( 01789/414-514) or Elite Taxis ( 01789/296-666). City Sightseeing (see under “Organized Tours,” below) runs a convenient hop-on/hop-off bus service to all the Shakespeare properties.
A Day in Stratford-upon-Avon
The obvious place to begin your exploration of Stratford is the sprawling, half-timbered building called simply Shakespeare’s Birthplace ★★★. It’s very hard to miss on busy Henley Street ( 01789/204-016; www.shakespeare.org.uk) due to the crowds usually around it. This is where the writer, son of a glover and wool merchant, was born in 1564. You enter through the modern Shakespeare Centre 
, where exhibits illustrate his life and times. It’s geared primarily at children, though, and you would be forgiven for hurrying on into the house. The house, filled with Shakespeare memorabilia, is actually composed of two 16th-century half-timbered houses joined together. You can visit the bedroom where Shakespeare was born, the living room, and a fully restored Tudor-style kitchen. Opening hours are generally April through October daily 10am to 5pm (closing 6pm in July and Aug only) and November through March daily 11am to 4pm. Admission is £12.50 for adults, £8 for children 5 to 16.
Shakespeare’s Birthplace.
On Chapel Street, a lush walled garden is virtually all that remains of New Place ( 01789/204-016; www.shakespeare.org.uk), where a prosperous Shakespeare retired in 1610 and died in 1616. The Bard bought the house for the then-astronomical sum of £60. The Reverend Francis Gastrill, who owned it in the 18th century, allegedly tore the house down rather than continue paying taxes on it. He said he couldn’t live in it because of the hordes of Shakespeare fans. You enter the garden through Nash’s House, which belonged to Thomas Nash, husband of Shakespeare’s granddaughter. The house contains 16th-century period rooms and an exhibit illustrating the history of Stratford. Hours are daily April through October 10am to 5pm, and November through March 11am to 4pm.
A 5-minute walk away in Old Town, Hall’s Croft ★★ is the magnificent Tudor house where Shakespeare’s daughter Susanna and her husband, Dr. John Hall, lived. The house is furnished in the style of a middle-class 17th-century home and has an absorbing exhibit on medicine of that time. It has the same opening hours as New Place/Nash’s House.
A bedroom inside Hall’s Croft.
From Hall’s Croft, it’s a short walk down Southern Lane, which runs beside the river, to Trinity Street and the footpath to Holy Trinity Church ★ ( 01789/266-316), where Shakespeare is buried. He died on his birthday, April 23, 1616, at age 52. His tomb lies in the chancel in front of the altar. Alongside his grave are those of his wife, Anne, and other members of his family. On the north wall a bust of Shakespeare overlooks the room: it was erected 7 years after his death—within the lifetime of his family and friends—and is believed to be a true likeness. The church is open April through September Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 6pm (9am–4pm in winter), and Sunday year-round from 12:30 to 5pm. The church is free, but to see the grave costs £2.
Shakespeare’s tomb, Holy Trinity Church.
About a mile south of the town center, Anne Hathaway’s Cottage ★★★ is the childhood home of Shakespeare’s long-suffering wife. (When Shakespeare died, his will included nothing for his wife except his “second best bed.”) Of all the Shakespeare properties, this one is most evocative of the Tudor period; a pretty thatched wattle-and-daub cottage surrounded by gardens. The Hathaway family were yeoman farmers, and their descendants lived in the cottage until 1892. As a result, it was never renovated and provides a rare insight into family life in the 16th century. Many original furnishings, including kitchen utensils and the courting settle (the bench on which Shakespeare is said to have wooed Anne), are still there. Before leaving, be sure to stroll through the beautiful garden and orchard. The house is on Cottage Lane in the village of Shottery about 1 mile (1.6km) south of Stratford. To get there, walk along the well-marked country path from Evesham Place or hop on a bus from Bridge Street. It has the same opening hours as New Place and Hall’s Croft.
Anne Hathaway’s Cottage.
The last Shakespeare property is Mary Arden’s House & the Shakespeare Countryside Museum ★ in Wilmcote, about 3.5 miles (5.5km) north of Stratford on the A34. The redbrick house where Shakespeare’s mother, Mary Arden, grew up has hardly changed. Dating from 1514, the house contains country furniture and domestic utensils; the extensive collection of farm implements in the barns and outbuildings illustrate life and work in the local countryside from Shakespeare’s time to the present. To reach the house, follow signs to Wilmcote or take the City Sightseeing bus (see “Organized Tours,” below).
Mary Arden’s House & the Shakespeare Countryside Museum.
Completely refurbished in 2010, the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, Waterside ( 01789/403-403; www.rsc.org.uk), is a major showcase for the acclaimed Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC), with a season that runs from April to November, and typically features five Shakespeare plays. The RSC also stages productions in the smaller Swan Theatre next door. Even if you’re not seeing a performance, you can take a guided Theatre Tour. It lasts an hour and takes you behind the scenes. Tours run every two hours from 9:15am (Mon–Sat) and from 10:15am (Sunday). Tickets cost £6.50 for adults and £3 for under-18s.
Royal Shakespeare Theatre.
All the World’s a Stage
If you want to catch a performance at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, advance booking is recommended. For ticket reservations book online or call 0844/800-1110. A small number of tickets are always held for sale on the day of a performance, but it may be too late to get a good seat if you wait until you arrive in Stratford. The box office is open Monday to Saturday 9am to 8pm. Seats range in price from £5 to £35.
Organized Tours
The Stratford Town Walk ★ ( 01789/292-478; www.stratfordtownwalk.co.uk) is a lively and absorbing 2-hour insider’s tour of Shakespeare’s Stratford. It departs daily (Mon–Wed at 11am, Thurs–Sun at 2pm) from the Swan Fountain near the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. No need to book a place; just show up: £5 for adults, £4 for seniors and students, and £2 for children 15 and under.
City Sightseeing, 14 Rother St. ( 01708/866-000; www.city-sightseeing.com), is a hop-on/hop-off guided tour of Stratford that leaves from outside the tourist office. Open-top, double-decker buses depart every 15 to 30 minutes daily between 9:30am and 5:30pm (until 3:30pm in winter). You can hop off at all five Shakespeare properties, including Mary Arden’s House in Wilmcote, although your bus ticket isn’t admission to the houses. The bus tour costs £11.75 for adults, £9.75 for seniors and students, and £6 for children 11 and under. You can buy your ticket on the bus.
Outdoor Activities
Avon Boating ( 01789/267-073) offers 30-minute cruises on the River Avon in traditional Edwardian launches, with regular departures Easter through October (10am–dusk) from Swan’s Nest Boatyard near the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. The cost is £4 for adults, £3 for seniors, £2.50 for children. Rowboats, punts, and canoes can be rented for £3 per hour.
Stay the Night
Close to the train station, Penryn House ★, 126 Alcester Rd. ( 01789/293-718; www.penrynguesthouse.co.uk), is convenient and affordable. Rooms are small, but well furnished, and breakfasts are made with local eggs and bacon. Double rooms cost from £60 to £70.
In Stratford’s oldest building, the White Swan ★, Rother St. ( 01789/297-022; www.white-swan-stratford.co.uk), is atmospheric and romantic. Rooms are comfortable if not big or modern, but this place is all about history and ambiance. The walls are decorated with art 500 years old. A standard double or twin room costs £85.
The Stratford, Arden St., ( 01789/271-001; www.qhotels.co.uk), is definitely not one of the atmospheric inns of Stratford-upon-Avon. But if you prefer a modern hotel with up-to-date conveniences when paying your call to the Bard, this hotel is for you. Bedrooms are spacious and elegant, some come with four-poster beds, and doubles are priced from £79 to £114.
Shopping
Stratford’s weekly Market, held every Friday on Rother Street, dates back more than 800 years. The Shakespeare Bookshop ★, in the Shakespeare Centre, Henley St. ( 01789/201-819), is the region’s best bookshop for Shakespeare-related material. The nearby Pickwick Gallery ★, 32 Henley St. ( 01789/294-861), carries a wide variety of old and new engravings. Elaine Rippon Craft Gallery ★★, Shakespeare Craft Yard off Henley St. ( 01789/415-481), designs, creates, and sells sumptuous silk and velvet accessories and carries fine British crafts.
Where to Eat
Stop in for afternoon tea and cakes at the Hathaway Tea Rooms & Bakery ★, 19 High St. ( 01789/292-404). The scones are light and airy, and it’s all served up in a building that dates to 1610. For more substantial cuisine, Lambs ★★, 12 Sheep St. ( 01789/292-554; www.lambs restaurant.co.uk), serves meaty English classics, priced from £10.95 to £16.50, at a location near the Royal Shakespeare Theatre. McKechnies, 37 Rother St. ( 01789/299-575; www.mckechniescafe.talktalk.net), is a cozy cafe near the market on Rother Street priding itself on locally sourced food. Its toasted sandwiches and zesty soups make a perfect lunch for about £5. The Dirty Duck ★★ on Waterside near the theater ( 01789/297-312; www.dirtyduck-pub-stratford-upon-avon.co.uk) has been a traditional hangout for actors from the RSC since the 18th century. It serves real ale and classic pub lunches, including a range of burgers (mains £7.50–£10.50).
Hathaway Tea Rooms & Bakery.
Nearby
Eight miles (13km) northeast of Stratford, Warwick Castle ★ (image above)( 0870/442-2000 for recorded information; www.warwick-castle.co.uk) stands nobly above the River Avon as it has since a.d. 914. Much of the enormous castle was built in the 14th century and it’s thoroughly medieval, with chunky towers, crenellated battlements, and a moat surrounded by gardens, lawns, and woodland. Scattered through the castle apartments (restored to the way they appeared in the late 19th century) are lifelike wax figures, created by Madame Tussauds, to represent famous figures who visited the castle and the servants who kept the place running. There’s a scary dungeon, battlements to walk on, and towers to explore, as well as playgrounds for kids. It’s all good, touristy fun. It’s open daily 10am to 6pm, closing at 5pm from early October to March. Admission costs £18.60 for adults, £15 for students, and £13.80 seniors and children 4 to 16. To get there, Chiltern Railways ( 08705/165-165; www.chilternrailways.co.uk) runs direct trains to Warwick from Stratford-upon-Avon; the trip takes 20 to 30 minutes. By car from Stratford, take the A439 and the A46 to the M40 and then follow Stratford Road and the Warwick signs for 2 miles (3km). Bus tours of Warwick Castle from Stratford-upon-Avon are available through City Sightseeing (see above).
York
Surrounded by ancient city walls and dominated by a huge cathedral, York is one of the most historic cities in England and one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe. York began life as a Roman fort and settlement known as Eboracum, and then became the Saxon Eofowic, capital of Northumbria, and then a thriving Viking settlement called Jorvik. Finally, after the Norman Conquest under William the Conqueror, the city became known as York, a thriving port and trade center. For thousands of years it acted as a guardian of the north with Romans, Saxons, Vikings, and Normans all using it as a fortress to protect their hold on the region. After the cathedral was built here in the 12th century though, the city’s role changed, and it became a religious center and market town. You can still see elements of the past everywhere you go—this is a piece of history you can walk through. But York is a thriving modern city, too, and its workaday life coexists smoothly with the tourism hubbub.
The enormous York Minster, the largest Gothic structure north of the Alps, dominates the city, along with the ancient city walls and fortified gateways, dating in part to Roman times. You can soak up the city’s history while exploring its maze of ancient streets and winding hidden walkways, known as “snickelways.”
Most of York’s attractions can be visited in a day, but there’s plenty here to induce an overnight stay.
Essentials
Visitor Information
A convenient branch of the Tourist Information Centre is in the train station so you can pick up a map at the very start. The main Tourist Information Centre on Museum Street ( 01904/550-099; www.visityork.org), near York Minster, is also helpful. Both branches are open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm (to 6pm in summer), and Sunday from 10am to 4pm (to 5pm in summer).
Scheduling Considerations
York is a popular place and draws visitors year-round, especially on weekends and from Easter through the summer months. If you want the city more to yourself, visit from mid-October to mid-March, but be aware of reduced hours at many attractions.
Getting There
By Train
East Coast trains leave every 30 minutes from King’s Cross for the 2-hour trip to York. Advance-purchase round-trip tickets cost about £65, but tickets will cost much more if purchased on the day of travel. York station is a 5-minute walk into the city center, across the river—head left from the station, follow the road down the hill, and to the right.
By Bus
National Express buses ( 08717/818-178; www.nationalexpress.com) travel from London’s Victoria bus station to York several times a day. Tickets start at £23, but the journey takes around 51⁄2 hours.
By Car
If you’re driving from London, take the M1 expressway north to exit 45, east of Leeds, and from there continue northeast on the A64 to York. The drive takes 31⁄2 to 4 hours. Park in one of the carparks outside the city walls and walk into the city; there’s no driving or parking in the center.
Getting Around
The train station is a 5-minute walk from York’s pedestrian-friendly historic city center, which is where you’ll want to spend your time and is easily traversed on foot. If you need a taxi, contact Station Taxis ( 01904/623-332).
York Pass
The York Pass, available online at www.yorkpass.com or at either of the city’s tourist information centers, grants you free admission to 30 attractions, public transport around the city, and discounts on dining. It includes admission to York Minster, the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall, Treasurer’s House, York Castle Museum, and nearby Castle Howard. A one-day pass is £34 for adults and £18 for children.
A Day in York
Begin your day at York Minster ★★★, Minster Yard ( 01904/557-216). The largest Gothic cathedral in Northern Europe was begun in 1220, when Archbishop Walter de Grey set out to build a cathedral to rival the one in Canterbury. Before entering, walk around the exterior to take in the massive size of the structure—534 ft. (160m) long, 249 ft. (75m) at its widest point, 90 ft. (27m) high. Light in the cavernous interior is diffused by the medieval stained glass (the cathedral contains fully half of all the stained glass in England); the Great West Window, with stained glass dating from 1338, is called the “Heart of Yorkshire.” A 15th-century choir screen decorated with statues of 15 kings of England, from William I (the Conqueror) to Henry VI, separates the nave from the choir. In the south transept, you can descend into the undercroft, where excavations have revealed the Roman basilica that stood here nearly 2,000 years ago, as well as portions of a Roman street and an earlier Norman cathedral. From the nave, a separate entrance leads to the 13th-century octagonal chapter house, filled with superlative stone carvings and medieval glass. You can ascend the mighty tower for a fabulous view of York and the surrounding countryside. The minster is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6:30pm (5:30 in winter), and Sunday noon to 4pm. Admission is £9 for adults, £8 for seniors, free for children 16 and under.
York Minster.
Medieval stained glass windows.
Next to the cathedral, in Minster Yard, stands an elegant stone house known as Treasurer’s House ★ ( 01904/624-247). Built in 1620 to house the treasurers of York Minster, the house and its gardens were extensively remodeled during the Victorian era by an eccentric collector. Inside are beautiful period rooms with collections of 17th- and 18th-century furniture, glass, and china. It’s open mid-March through November, Saturday through Thursday from 11am to 4:30pm (until 3pm in Nov). Admission is £5.90 for adults, £3 for children 5 to 15. The peaceful walled garden is free to visit.
Virtually in front of the Minster, Stonegate ★★ is a wide, pedestrian street heading toward the river and lined on both sides by shop fronts from as far back as Tudor times. The tiny statues perched above shop windows acted as business signs in an age when most people couldn’t read. Keep an eye out for the red devil, this figure once represented a printers shop, a common symbol in those days for this trade. The apprentices that worked here were known as the ‘printers devils.’
Heading off Stonegate into the tangle of medieval streets around the Minster, Petergate leads you to The Shambles ★. Up until 150 years ago, the Shambles was a street where butchers displayed their finest cuts in open windows on wide shelves called shammels. Today this narrow, winding lane where the half-timbered buildings are so close together they nearly shut out the light is filled with a combination of touristy gift shops and specialty stores, but the old butchers hooks still hang from many walls.
The Shambles.
A short walk away on Piccadilly, the 14th-century stone and half-timbered structure is the Merchant Adventurers’ Hall ★ ( 01904/654-818; www.theyorkcompany.co.uk). With a great hall on the main floor and a hospital and a chapel below, it served York’s most powerful guild, the Merchant Adventurers. (Adventurers, in this context, means investors, and members profited from trade into and out of the city.) It’s open Monday through Thursday 9am to 5pm (Nov–Feb only until 4pm), Friday and Saturday 9am to 4pm (until 3:30 in winter), and Sunday 11am to 4pm (closed Sun in winter). Admission is £6 for adults, £5 for seniors and students, and free for children 16 and under.
Backtrack on Piccadilly to Coppergate, where you turn south and then turn east on Castlegate to the Jorvik Viking Centre ( 01904/643-211; www.jorvik.co.uk). There you can hop into a “time car” and be transported back to a.d. 948, when Eric Bloodaxe was king and York was Jorvik, a thriving Viking port and trading town. The scenes you pass—of village life, market stalls, crowded houses, and the wharf—are re-creations based on archaeological finds in this area; open daily from 10am to 5pm (Nov–Mar only until 4pm). Admission is £9.25 for adults, £7.25 for seniors and students, and £6.25 for children 5 to 15.
Jorvik Viking Centre.
Continue on Castlegate to York Castle Museum ★ ( 01904/653-611; www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk), housed in a former castle and debtors prison and today the most popular folk museum in the country. Using a treasure-trove of now-vanished everyday objects, the exhibitions re-create slices of life from the last 400 years. A highlight of the museum is the recently re-vamped Kirkgate Street, re-creating shops, a school, and even a padded cell, all as they would have looked and felt in the Victorian period. The museum is open daily 9:30am to 5pm. Admission is £8.50 for adults and free for under-16s. The ticket is valid for one year, covering as many visits as you wish.
Nearby, the station on Leeman Rd., the National Railway Museum ★ ( 01904/621-261; www.nrm.org.uk), is packed with working vintage locomotives and antique railway cars, the earliest dating from the 1840s. Peek into the windows of private royal trains, including Queen Victoria’s plush 1869 coach (open daily from 10am–6pm, admission is free).
National Railway Museum.
Organized Tours
The York Association of Voluntary Guides ( 01904/640-780) offers free, 2-hour guided tours of the city. The tours depart daily, year-round, at 10:15am from the front of the York Art Gallery in Exhibition Square. Additional tours are offered at 6:45pm from June to August. You don’t need a reservation; just show up.
Yorkwalk ( 01904/622-303; www.yorkwalk.co.uk) leads 2-hour guided walks that focus on Roman York, hidden alleyways (snickelways), the walls, and other elements of the city. Guides are extremely well-informed and provide fascinating commentary; cost is £5.50 for adults, £5 for seniors and students, £4 for children. Call or check the website to find out what tours are on offer while you’re in town.
The Roman walls of York.
Climbing the Walls
Some 3 miles (5km) of stone walls surround York city center and a walk along the top of them takes you along 2,000 years of history. The Romans raised the first walls around the city, and these were rebuilt and strengthened by Vikings and Normans. The walls are crossed by fortified medieval gates, called “bars.” One, Monk’s Bar, still has its portcullis. Micklegate Bar is the most elaborately decorated, because this was the entrance used by the royal family. Staircases can be found near each bar, and you can walk along the walls to the lookout towers for free.
Allegedly the most haunted city in Britain, York is hugely popular with ghost hunters and those who believe in a spectral world. There are many ghost tour options—the tourism office can bury you in information. A good one to try is the Original Ghost Walk ( 01947/603-159; www.theoriginalghostwalkofyork.co.uk). It’s a thorough and knowledgeable look at the city’s most famous ghosts. Tours start at 8pm in front of the King’s Arms Pub on Ouse Bridge, and cost £4.50 for adults and £3 for students, seniors and children under 15.
Stay the Night
If you choose to stay the night in York, there are plenty of options. The Hazelwood ★, 24–25 Portland St. ( 01904/626-548; www.thehazelwoodyork.com), is a 19th-century home on a quiet lane inside the city walls. Rooms are well furnished (doubles cost £85–£120) and breakfasts are enormous. If you want to splurge a bit, the Hotel du Vin ★★, 89 The Mount ( 01094/557-350; www.hotelduvin.com), just outside the city walls, is a lovely option, with exposed brick walls, roll-top tubs, and hugely comfortable beds. Expect to pay £200 to £300 for a double room. If you’d like to spend a night in a haunted inn, The Black Swan, Peasholme Green ( 01904/686-911; www.blackswanyork.com), is in a 16th-century building with comfortable guestrooms (doubles £110) filled with antiques, and a good dinner menu downstairs.
Shopping
High-end shops, including designer clothes boutiques and fine jewelry, are found on Swinegate ★. The area around Stonegate has a balanced mix of independent shops and chain boutiques. Newgate Market, between Parliament Street and the Shambles, is York’s biggest open-air market, open daily with stalls selling crafts, clothes, candles, you name it. Appropriately for such a historic city, York has lots of antiques and antique jewelry stores. Try Red House Antiques Centre ★, 2 Lendal St. ( 01904/641-445), has 25 small dealers selling antique jewelry, clothes, and furniture.
Where to Eat
The most famous eatery in York is the tea shop at the end of Stonegate, Betty’s ( 01904/659-142; www.bettys.co.uk), where pots of tea and warm scones studded with raisins have been served since 1912. The sunny dining room is an ideal place to take an afternoon break, but it’s so popular there’s almost always a wait for a table. The Old White Swan ★★, 34 Fossgate ( 01904/673-990; www.thebluebicycle.com), is an elegant restaurant set inside a former 19th-century brothel. The seasonal menu often has exceptional seafood and beef dishes and makes good use of locally sourced produce, with main lunch courses priced from £4.50 to £8.50.
Assorted pastries and cakes at Betty’s.
Nearby
Fifteen miles (24km) east of York, Castle Howard ★★ ( 01653/648-333; www.castlehoward.co.uk) is the largest house in Yorkshire and has been the home of the Howard family since the 17th century. The facade showcases elegant architectural details, including statues, long arched windows, and a beautiful cupola crowning the center of the house. The marble entrance hall, lit by the dome, is particularly impressive, as is the Long Gallery, but the house has many superb rooms, all filled with fine furniture, statues, and china. The collection of paintings includes works by Rubens, Tintoretto, Van Dyck, Canaletto, and Reynolds, as well as a famous portrait of Henry VIII by Hans Holbein. There’s a tea shop overlooked by strutting peacocks, and a playground for kids. To reach Castle Howard by train from York, take the local Scarborough line to Malton and then a taxi. If you’re driving, take the A64 north from York. Castle Howard is open late March through October and late November to mid-December daily from 11am to 4pm (the grounds open at 10am). Admission is £13 for adults, £11 seniors and students, and £7.50 for children 5 to 16 (under-5s are admitted free).
