Lake McDonald and the North Fork Country

Lake McDonald, near the west entrance of Glacier National Park, is the largest body of water in the park. It is 10 miles long and has a maximum depth of 472 feet. The lakebed was carved out by a huge glacier that filled the entire valley, leaving a characteristic U-shaped basin. Lake McDonald was once fair fishing for native cutthroat trout, but ever since the introduction of lake trout decimated the native populations of cutthroat and bull trout, the lake has offered very poor fishing. At the lake’s foot lie the low foothills of the Apgar Range and the Belton Hills, while snowcapped peaks along the Continental Divide loom to the east of the lake’s head. The country is characterized by low, east–west ridges rising to rugged peaks. Dense forests cover the eastern shore of the lake, grading from cedars, birches, and larches at lower elevations to Douglas firs and lodgepole pines higher up. The western shore and the Apgar Mountains show dramatic evidence of the 2003 Robert Fire.

The North Fork of the Flathead River occupies a forested valley bounded on the west by the Whitefish Range and on the east by the craggy Livingston Range. The climate here reflects a maritime influence, with storm fronts pushing in from the Pacific Ocean. As a result, the North Fork country gets quite a bit of precipitation over the course of a year, most of which falls in wintertime as snow. Lodgepole pines dominate the vegetation of the valley floor, dependent on periodic fires to maintain their competitive edge over more shade-tolerant species. The serotinous cones of lodgepoles are covered with resin that melts and allows the cone to release seeds only in the presence of heat provided by forest fires. The seeds then fall on fertile soil in openings created by the fire, where they germinate and thrive in direct sunlight. Many fires have burned along the North Fork of the Flathead River during the last several decades, leaving their mark on the forest.

Hikes around Lake McDonald and the North Fork tend to pass through heavy forest, with limited opportunities for sweeping views. Burns and lakes provide occasional vistas. The forest itself abounds with wild berries in late summer. Lakes and streams typically harbor native westslope cutthroat trout, though rainbow trout were introduced in some areas. In general, the lakes provide much better fishing than the streams, which are so pure that they contain few nutrients to sustain a productive food web. Know the park fishing regulations, and check for closures and catch limits before you set out.

Wildlife in this part of Glacier reflects the boreal nature of the region, with elk and white-tailed deer being plentiful. Taiga species, such as lynx and fisher, are occasionally seen in thick stands of lodgepole pine at lower elevations. Since fishers are extremely rare, please report all sightings to the National Park Service. The North Fork country is home to several active wolf packs, which colonized the park naturally from Canada. Hikers who see tracks or hear the howl of these endangered predators can consider themselves truly fortunate. Birders will find the large glacial lakes of this area good places to see ospreys, bald eagles, and common loons.

West Glacier, Montana, is the western gateway to the park and serves as trailhead and rafting hub for that side of the park. Vendors offer a wide variety of tourist services at West Glacier, Apgar Village, and Lake McDonald Lodge, including guided horse trips, gas, restaurants, and lodging. Major car campgrounds are located at Apgar and Avalanche Creek; these tend to be crowded and noisy. A quieter tents-only campground is located on Sprague Creek near Lake McDonald Lodge.

The North Fork Valley can be accessed via the Inside North Fork Road (Glacier Route 7), a narrow gravel road that runs along the river inside the park boundary. There are auto campgrounds at Quartz and Logging Creeks along the way, as well as campgrounds at the foot of Bowman and Kintla Lakes. An alternate route into the North Fork area is the Polebridge Road, which can be accessed from the terminus of the Camas Road or from the town of Columbia Falls, Montana, and runs 16 miles north to the settlement of Polebridge. This road, heavily traveled by logging trucks, is frequently in rough condition. Polebridge is an authentic frontier community, serving a handful of homesteads and ranches on the west bank of the river. This “town” boasts a mercantile store selling gas and groceries and the Northern Lights Saloon, which serves meals and libations to weary travelers in an atmosphere of down-home hospitality. Just north of this quaint community, a new two-lane bridge crosses the river to link up with Glacier Route 7.