Mahonia at Winkworth Arboretum, Surrey.
THE COLD WEATHER can create a visual winter wonderland in the garden. Seedheads stand tall and resplendent, looking at their best when the winter frost catches them, making them shine and glisten in the winter sun. As temperatures drop and day length shortens, there is a warm pleasure from standing indoors with a hot mug of coffee or tea and admiring the structure of the garden from the comfort of your own living room or kitchen.
Trees and shrubs stand like sentinels defying the very worst that nature can throw at them. Only the toughest survive and some of them embrace it with such grace and beauty.
It’s a time when the bare bones of the garden are revealed. Deciduous trees are denuded of their leaves and their gnarled, knotty branches create a new season of interest silhouetted against the backdrop of the low winter sun. Brightly coloured winter stems in an array of colours are provided by dogwoods and willows. Trunks with impressive textures or foliage stand out proud against the cold such as the papery, white bark of birch, the stripes of the snakebark acers or the deep red, mahogany and chocolate-brown of some of the cherry trees, which all create bold, upright features in the garden.
Wrapping up warmly with a woolly hat, thick socks, gloves and scarf are part of the ritual before stepping outdoors into the garden. Winter pruning is one of the main jobs in the garden and there is a wonderful satisfaction in shaping a bush or shrub to suit your own taste.
Many of the shrubs provide the chilly winter air with an intoxicating sweet fragrance such as daphne, mahonia, sarcocca, witch hazel and winter honeysuckle. Closer to the ground are the nodding heads of hellebores, while the evergreen foliage of ivy, some with brightly coloured variegated leaves, clothe walls and fences and carpet the ground.
For extra interest, don’t forget the wildlife that will be attracted to your garden if you leave seedheads uncut and grow plants with bright berries. To give your feathered friends an extra hand to survive the cold winter you can always provide a bird table or feeders and a bird bath.
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BETULA UTILIS VAR. JACQUEMONTII |
THE STARK, PEELING TRUNK OF THIS BIRCH TREE FROM THE HIMALAYAS IS EXQUISITE. IT LOOKS GOOD ALL YEAR ROUND BUT IN WINTER, AS PURE WHITE AS THE DRIVEN SNOW, THIS SMALL TREE WITH ITS EXPRESSIVE STRETCHING LIMBS IS REALLY EYE-CATCHING.
Birch are one of the most commonly seen trees on the fringes of our many woodlands, happily colonising any space where a little bit of sunlight can filter through the higher canopy. Their ghostly, white trunks are a familiar sight in nature, but there are lots of garden varieties that have even more impressive and whiter trunks than those seen in the wild. One of the best forms is Betula utilis var. jacquemontii, Himalayan birch.
If space allows, grow them in groups of three or five where they make a much bigger impact. Try growing them against a dark backdrop, such as a yew hedge to get the maximum effect of their brilliant white trunks. At Greenway in Devon, we grow them against the backdrop of the dark River Dart to great effect, but they can equally be grown by the side of a pond in the garden, where the reflections will accentuate the trees. They can be underplanted with bulbs to emphasise the upright accents of the trunks. Snowdrops or snowflakes (Leucojum) are the best as they enhance the trunk’s whiteness, but winter aconites, cyclamen or spring crocus are good alternatives.
In smaller spaces they can be grown in containers where they make all-year-round features in the garden. They can also be grown in raised beds where their elevated height shows off the trunks even more.
Birch trees aren’t too fussy about soil conditions. They’ll tolerate a range of pH conditions and will grow in clay or sand. They prefer full sun, but can be grown in dappled shade. They shouldn’t require pruning except to remove any dead branches. You may want to cut off any really low branches to show off the trunk at its best. The tree will benefit from a mulch with well-rotted manure or compost at the base of its trunk, taking care to ensure the material isn’t in direct contract with the trunk, to prevent it from starting to rot.
Birch can grow up to 12m (40ft) high but doesn’t usually get to these heights in a garden. Birch are considered to be short-term trees, looking good for only about 25–30 years, and with the most impressive looking trunks when they’re very young. This is opposed to trees such as oaks and yew that can live for hundreds of years. After a while, the intense white colouring of a birch tree can start to fade, and may be worth replacing. Some gardeners advocate going out each winter with a sponge and bucket of soapy water to wash off any algae and dirt on the trunk, ensuring that it looks sparkly clean.
ALTERNATIVES
For something more unusual try B. utilis var. jacquemontii ‘Wakehurst Place Chocolate’, which has a dark chocolate-coloured trunk. It makes a great contrast to the white stemmed birches if planted close together. B. utilis var. jacquemontii ‘Grayswood Ghost’ is regarded as having the whitest of any of the B. utilis var. jacquemontii cultivars.
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ACER DAVIDII |
DO YOU EVER WANT TO GIVE A TREE A HUG? I CAN GUARANTEE YOU WILL AT LEAST WANT TO GIVE THIS VERY TACTILE SNAKEBARK TREE TRUNK A STROKE EVERY TIME YOU WALK PAST, MAKING THE ACER DAVIDII A MUST FOR GARDENERS AND TREE-HUGGERS ALIKE.
How can anybody not be smitten with this tree from China? Acer davidii or Père David’s maple has sumptuous green and white vertical stripes all up its trunk, often flecked with a whole range of other hues, such as dark reds, purples and browns. The beauty of this alone is enough to justify growing this tree, but it also produces attractive clusters of winged fruits and gives an impressive display of foliage flushed with orange, yellow and even pink leaves in autumn. Earlier in the year, this maple produces pendulous clusters of pale yellow flowers, which are very distinctive when examined close up.
It can be grown either with a single trunk or multi-stemmed, with the latter being the better option for drawing attention to its quirky snakebark texture.
Like most acers, davidii prefers sheltered locations away from exposed winds, but it is fully hardy and will tolerate the cold. They prefer partial shade, but will cope with full sun. They favour slightly acidic soil, but will cope with a moderate degree of alkalinity.
The best place to grow them is where their trunks can be seen at their best. So avoid planting them at the back of herbaceous borders or in amongst other plants that will screen its lower half when the plant is young. However, later on in life they can grow to about 10m (33ft) in height, which will lift the majority of the plant above the herbaceous foliage.
These acers make great focal points on lawns. Alternatively, in bigger gardens they can be planted at the edge of a woodland or on the margins of larger tree canopies, such as oaks, ash and pines. Woodland-type shrubs like camellias and rhododendrons make an attractive backdrop to acers with their evergreen foliage. Closer to the ground some of the small azaleas such as ‘Greenway’ look good near the base of the trunk. Snakebarks also look impressive when underplanted with low-growing ferns, winter aconites, snowdrops or Cyclamen hederifolium. They can be grown in large pots and containers, which is an ideal option for a small garden or courtyard.
ALTERNATIVES
The most commonly grown A. davidii is named after the famous plant hunter ‘George Forrest’, which has fantastic autumn colour and a fairly open habit. Another davidii variety worth looking out for is named after another explorer and plant hunter ‘Ernest Wilson’, which is more compact and considered by many gardeners to have one of the best displays of autumn colour. The variety ‘Serpentine’ is recognised as having one of the most ornamental bark patterns. Another snakebark species is Acer pensylvanicum from North America, which has impressive markings on its trunk and has attractive yellowy foliage in autumn. There are other acers that are grown for their ornamental trunk, with Acer grisium being the most popular, with amazing, golden coppery colours and a peeling, papery texture.
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PRUNUS SERRULA |
IF YOU THINK THAT ORNAMENTAL CHERRY TREES ARE ALL ABOUT THE BLOSSOM THEN THINK AGAIN. THERE ARE A NUMBER OF CHERRY TREES THAT HAVE GORGEOUS, COLOURFUL TREE TRUNKS THAT POSITIVELY SHINE WHEN THE WINTER SUN CATCHES THEM.
The deep, rich, mahogany-coloured trunk of Prunus serrula makes a bold statement in any garden. Creating an impressive feature all year round, winter is when the trunk stands out most prominently, almost radiating with a polished gleam. Striking, white, horizontal markings run up and down, standing out against the deep red colours, almost looking as if rich cream is spilling out from hundreds of lacerations. This deciduous tree from Tibet and western China forms a small, neat, rounded shape and is perfect for creating an upright, eye-catching focus point in a small garden.
The trunk can be ‘buffed’ or polished with a cloth to make it look even shinier, and remove any dirt or algae. Although its key attribute is the trunk, it also has attractive clusters of white cherry blossom in spring and mellow, yellow leaves in autumn.
Cherry trees require fertile, but well-drained soil. They absolutely hate wet, boggy ground and will instantly sulk as soon as conditions get too wet for them. In prolonged periods of dampness they often succumb to rot and fungal problems. In heavy clay soil it is worth adding a spade or two of grit to help improve drainage. In really poorly drained soil it may be necessary to grow them in large containers.
It is best grown as a multi-stemmed tree to make the most of its rich, coppery colours. However, it can also be grown as a single-stemmed tree, in which case it may be necessary to remove some of the lower branches to show the trunk off at its best. Planting should be in the autumn and should not be too deep, as this can cause the trunk to rot and the tree to die. The top of the rootball should be level with the ground or just very fractionally above it. Dig plenty of organic matter into the soil prior to planting to give the tree the best start in life. Young trees may need staking for the first couple of years until the roots have had a chance to anchor into the ground.
It is best not to prune a cherry tree where possible because they are so susceptible to disease. Only prune to remove any dead or diseased wood. This should be carried out when the plant is in growth, namely spring and summer. Avoid pruning in winter when the tree is dormant as the open wounds leave the cherry susceptible to fungal problems.
ALTERNATIVES
My absolute favourite is the slightly rarer P. himalaica, the Himalayan cherry, which has the most exquisite, rich brown trunk. A similar tree with a dark chocolate-brown trunk is Prunus rufa. For something a bit lighter P. maackii ‘Amber Beauty’ (Manchurian cherry) has glossy golden tones to its trunk.
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SALIX ALBA VAR. VITELLINA ‘BRITZENSIS’ |
WHO SAYS THERE’S NO COLOUR IN THE GARDEN IN WINTER? THE VIBRANT, BRIGHT RED STEMS ON THIS WILLOW LOOK POSITIVELY ABLAZE AT THIS TIME OF YEAR, PROVIDING THE OUTDOORS WITH A BIGGER SPLASH OF COLOUR THAN ANY SUMMER FLOWER.
The young red stems on this shrub are so bright it looks like somebody has lit a bonfire in the garden. They look like burning, hot bushes and there is nothing quite like them for creating a maximum impact of colour outdoors.
Often referred to as the scarlet willow, the brightest colour appears on the new young stems. For this reason it is often coppiced or pruned to near ground level every one or two years. This is usually carried out in early spring, to cut the stems before it actively comes into growth to avoid loss of sap and also so you get to enjoy the colourful bare stems, denuded of their foliage throughout the whole of winter.
Although mainly grown as a coppiced shrub, they can be allowed to grow into an attractive tree, which can eventually reach about 10m (33ft) high and 15m (50ft) wide. Their leaves produce attractive green catkins in spring.
Like most willows they prefer moist soil. They will tolerate most other types of ground conditions except for extreme dryness. They are best planted by ponds where their long roots will thrive in the dampness and this means you get the added bonus of their colourful reflections. They’re really tough plants and grow well in coastal and exposed locations. Pruning them once a year ensures lots of vibrant new stems to admire during wintertime with the entire plant covered in bright scarlet hues. They require sun or dappled shade.
ALTERNATIVES
There are numerous other willows with attractive winter stems so you can take your pick, but some of the most popular are S. daphnoides with intriguing violet stems. S. x rubens ‘Eugenei’ has pale, greenish yellow new growth and S. alba x fragilis produces fiery orange and red young shoots.
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ILEX AQUIFOLIUM ‘PYRAMIDALIS’ |
HOLLIES ARE ONE OF THE CLASSIC WINTER GARDEN PLANTS, PROVIDING EVERGREEN STRUCTURE WITH THEIR DARK, GLOSSY LEAVES AND A SPLASH OF COLOUR WITH THEIR BRIGHT BERRIES. ATTRACTIVE TO WILDLIFE, BIRDS LOVE FEEDING ON THE FRUITS.
I’ve had a love/hate relationship with many a holly in my gardening career. While I love the deep, glossy leaves and bright berries, I also remember the pain! Many a time I have cursed in the garden when I’ve been weeding without gloves (yes, I know I shouldn’t) and inadvertently picked up fallen holly leaves and been stabbed by their prickly thorns. Thankfully Ilex aquifolium ‘Pyramidalis’ has far fewer prickles than some of the other varieties, which is a blessing.
‘Pyramidalis’ is so called because it has a lovely shape with a wide base and gradually tapers neatly towards the top. Hollies can be either male or female, but only the female ones produce berries. Thankfully ‘Pyramidalis’ is female and produces some of the brightest berries I have ever seen. It responds well to pruning so it is possible to keep it reasonably compact. Without pruning it will eventually make quite a large shrub, up to about 8m (26ft) in height and spread. Of course, clippings can always be used in Christmas wreaths.
Hollies are great for brightening up a dark, shady corner where not much else will grow because they tolerate shade and dry soil. They can also be planted in full sun and look great at the back of a deep border where their dark foliage provides a backdrop for low growing flowering plants with winter interest, such as periwinkle, hellebores, winter aconites or snowdrops.
ALTERNATIVES
If you want a prickly hedge as a barrier to keep out intruders then choose the very spiky I. ‘Ferox Argentea’. For impressive foliage try ‘Silver Queen’, which has attractive variegated foliage with a creamy margin, although as it is a male (despite the confusing name ‘Queen’) it won’t produce berries.
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CORNUS ‘MIDWINTER FIRE’ |
IF YOU ARE GOING TO CHOOSE ONE PLANT FOR MAXIMUM IMPACT IN A WINTER GARDEN, THEN THIS SHRUB, LOADED WITH VIVID, BARE WINTER STEMS IN FIERY ORANGES AND REDS, IS IT.
For about six or seven months of the year this deciduous shrub is not particularly exciting to look at with mid-green leaves and smallish, white flowers. It becomes a bit more exciting just before leaf fall, when the leaves turn an attractive orange-yellow, but this dogwood really comes into its own when the leaves drop off the tree in mid-autumn and it continues to steal the show right up until mid-spring. When its bare stems are exposed it creates an unashamed riot of colour with its brilliant flame-coloured stems.
Cornus are best planted en masse to maximise their colourful, vibrant effect. In smaller gardens plant them in clusters of three or five. They prefer damp ground and look particularly effective next to ponds where their reflections increase their bright impression.
They prefer to be planted in full sun, and they also look better because the winter sunshine seems to accentuate their bright, bold colours. However, they will tolerate dappled shade if necessary.
In order to get really colourful stems, it is best to prune them hard, about 5cm (2in) above ground level, in mid-spring, just before they come into growth. Dogwoods will also benefit from a 5cm (2in) layer of mulch around the base of the plant to suppress any competing weeds and retain any moisture.
ALTERNATIVES
One of the most popular dogwoods is C. sericea ‘Flaviramea’, which has bright lime-green winter stems, whereas C. alba ‘Kesselringii’ produces dark purple-black stems in winter and has purple foliage all year round.
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HAMAMELIS X INTERMEDIA ‘PALLIDA’ |
YOU MAY WELL SMELL THIS PLANT BEFORE YOU SEE IT, AS ITS SWEET, INTOXICATING FRAGRANCE CARRIES FOR LONG DISTANCES ON WINTER BREEZES. WHEN YOU DO SEE IT, THE SIGHT OF ITS ENCHANTING FLOWERS, LOOKING LIKE CANDIED SUGAR, WILL NOT DISAPPOINT.
This is probably one of my favourite winter shrubs, although I must admit to being partly biased as the original shrub originates from Battleston Hill at the Royal Horticultural Society Garden, Wisley, in Surrey where I previously worked as supervisor. I always used to love the smell every winter where its fragrance would dominate the scent on the hill in the fresh winter air. Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Pallida’ is one of the most popular hybrid witch hazels and reckoned by many to be one of the greatest of all the winter shrubs.
Witch hazels are deciduous and produce fragrant flowers on bare stems during winter before their hazel-like foliage appears. Later on in the year their leaves turn an attractive, buttery-yellow colour. ‘Pallida’ produces deep yellow flowers with amazing, bright reddish purple calyces.
It will grow up to about 5m (16½ft) in height and width if left unpruned and is fully hardy. In fact, one of the most exquisite ways of seeing the flowers is when they have been hit by a harsh frost and they look like frozen sweets suspended in the air. They tolerate full sun or partial shade and are not too fussy about soil conditions.
They can be planted as individual specimens and make eye-catching winter interest if planted in tree circles in the lawn, or look good planted among mixed borders, particularly those with bold foliage, such as acuba, mahonias, skimmias and hollies.
ALTERNATIVES
H. x intermedia ‘Diane’ is a popular orangey-red flowering variety. It isn’t one of the most fragrant, but does have impressive autumn foliage. ‘Arnold’s Promise’ has pretty, bright yellow flowers with bold autumn colour. ‘Aphrodite’ is another variety you could easily fall in love with that has large, fragrant, orangey-yellow flowers.
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MAHONIA X MEDIA ‘CHARITY’ |
EASY TO GROW AND UNFUSSY ABOUT WHERE IT IS PLANTED, MAHONIAS PROVIDE PLENTY OF INTEREST IN THE GARDEN WITH THEIR LARGE, EVERGREEN, GLOSSY LEAVES, DELICIOUSLY SCENTED FLOWERS AND QUIRKY-LOOKING DARK FRUITS.
Like many winter flowering shrubs, mahonias have a delicious, sweet fragrance that carries on the fresh, cool air, attracting pollinating insects to feed from its nectar. A popular winter shrub, one of their best attributes is that they aren’t demanding. They will tolerate sunshine, partial or full shade although they can get slightly leggy if they aren’t receiving any sunshine at all. However, they do respond well to pruning, so if this happens, they can be cut back by half along the stem, where they will regrow, creating a more compact shrub. They’re not fussy about soil conditions and will cope with almost anything except very wet or boggy.
They have glossy leaves, similar to holly but opposite each other on long, arching stems, which gives the plant a stately, architectural quality. Good for using as features in awkward areas, such as shady corners or under the canopy of taller trees, the sharpness of the leaves combined with their tough, hardy and dense habit, makes them handy shrubs for creating barriers from trespassers, or for screening unsightly areas of the garden. Mahonias are also useful plants for the back of the herbaceous border, with their distinctive leaves making a great background foil for lower growing plants and bulbs, such as hellebores, cyclamen and heathers in winter.
Mahonia x media ‘Charity’ is one of the larger types, growing to about 4m (13ft) in height and spread. It has an upright habit and pale yellow spikes of flowers that can be as long as 35cm (13in). Later, it produces purple fruit that look like clusters of grapes, hence its common name Oregon grape. They require little maintenance, but will benefit from a mulch of well-rotted manure or garden compost once a year around the base of the trunk.
ALTERNATIVES
For something smaller try M. aquifolium ‘Apollo’, which only grows to between 45cm and 1m (1½ and 3ft) tall. It produces large, dark yellow flowers and black berries. M. japonica is slightly bigger than aquifolium, reaching up to 1.5m (5ft) high with long, leathery foliage and drooping flowers, compared to the upright spikes of ‘Charity’.
86 |
VIBURNUM FARRERI |
A DECIDUOUS SHRUB WITH GORGEOUS, CRINKLY LEAVES IS COMPLEMENTED FROM LATE AUTUMN AND INTO WINTER WITH CLUSTERS OF PERFUMED WHITE, PINK-TINGED FLOWERS.
The foliage goes through a whole plethora of colours as the season progresses, starting off bronze when young, then through to dark green and finally a flamboyant flush of red and purple shades, before taking their final bow in autumn. The pretty clusters of whitish pink, tubular flowers appear in late autumn and persist into winter with their sweet scent perfuming the air.
They prefer moist but well-drained soil and will tolerate sun or partial shade making it a versatile plant in any garden. Although the plant is fully hardy, the flowers can be prone to turning brown if they get zapped by the frost so it is worth choosing a sheltered site if possible. Discovered in north China in the early twentieth century by the intrepid plant hunter Reginald Farrer, it will grow to about 2.5m (8ft) high and wide. Because of its delightful smell, it can be a useful shrub to plant near the front door where you will get a whiff of its fragrance every time you go in and out of the house during winter. It is often used as a hedge and can be trimmed once a year after it has flowered to keep it in shape.
Viburnum farreri doesn’t require much maintenance, but like most shrubs, will benefit from an annual layer of mulch being placed around the base of its stems.
ALTERNATIVES
V. farreri ‘Candidissimum’ is a stunning, pure white version of this species.
The other popular winter flowering viburnum is the hybrid x bodnantense, which produces clusters of pink, scented flowers on its bare stems in winter.
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DAPHNE MEZEREUM |
MASSES OF BRIGHT PURPLE, SCENTED FLOWERS APPEAR ON BARE STEMS FROM MID- TO LATE WINTER ONWARDS FILLING THE GARDEN WITH A SENSORY OVERLOAD OF FRAGRANCE. DAHPNE MEZEREUM IS A SMALL, COMPACT SHRUB MAKING IT IDEAL FOR SMALL GARDENS.
According to Greek mythology, Daphne was a beautiful waterside nymph who attracted the unwanted attentions of the god Apollo. Daphne appealed to her father for help, who turned her into a tree to protect her. Regardless of this legend, you can’t help but fall in love with this shrub. Daphne may have been the daughter of a Greek god but her namesake really does smell divine!
Daphne mezereum is a hardy, winter flowering shrub that is grown for its sweet-perfumed flowers that appear in the tips of bare stems from mid- to late winter and persist until early spring. The flowers are a rich magenta colour and are followed by fleshy, toxic, red fruits. It prefers fertile, well-drained soil, which is neutral to alkaline. It is an excellent choice of shrub if your garden is on chalky ground.
They like to be planted in either full sun or dappled shade. It’s a fairly compact shrub, usually only reaching just over 1m (3ft) high and wide. They’re ideal for planting in a shrub or mixed border or on the edge of a woodland garden. Plant them in a sheltered spot as this helps the fragrance to linger in the air better. I have one planted at the bottom of my garden as it is a wonderful enticement to step outside on a cold winter’s day to go and smell the flowers. Despite the shrub being quite a distance from my back door, I can usually smell it the second I take a step outdoors.
Maintenance is fairly low and the shrub is very easy to grow. They don’t require annual pruning, but can occasionally have one or two of the older stems removed to encourage more young shoots as this is where the flowers appear. As with most shrubs, they will benefit from a mulch with organic matter, such as well-rotted manure or garden compost at the base of the plant. Spent mushroom compost is also a good mulch as it has a high pH.
ALTERNATIVES
D. bholua ‘Jacqueline Postill’ is an evergreen daphne, which is larger than mezereum, growing to a height of about 2.5m (8ft). It produces scented, pink flowers with white on the inside. D. laureola (spurge laurel) is another evergreen daphne with scented, pale green flowers and black fruit. Like mezereum it only grows up to about 1m (3ft) high. D. odora ‘Aureomarginata’ is an evergreen with variegated foliage with yellow edges. It produces reddish purple flowers in early spring and reaches a height of about 1.5m (5ft).
88 |
CHIMONANTHUS PRAECOX |
A GRACEFUL, UPRIGHT SHRUB, WINTERSWEET IS GROWN FOR ITS DELICATE, DEEP YELLOW FLOWERS AND THEIR SWEET FRAGRANCE, WHICH APPEAR ON THE NAKED STEMS BEFORE THE LEAVES EMERGE. IT’S A TOUGH PLANT THIS ONE, HARDY AT MINUS TEMPERATURES.
I love the flowers on wintersweet and it’s worth getting close up to take a really good look. They have an outer petal, which is a gorgeous deep yellow colour, and then inside it is another one that has vivid flushes of reddish purple. They hang off the bare stems singly, in the depths of winter, as if to defy the cold weather outside. The leaves come out as the flowers fade, appearing opposite each other along the stem. They have a spicy aroma when crushed between the fingers.
For much of the year the shrub looks insignificant, and it might not be your first choice if space is at a premium. But it is well worth growing if you have the room, because the fragrance it gives off in winter is sensational, with an unusual concoction of sweet overtones and a spicy background. If you don’t venture out into your back garden much in winter, then stick it out in the front, by the drive, along a path or near the front door as you will be able to enjoy the aroma every time you go outside. In larger gardens they can be placed at the back of flower borders or in a sheltered location next to fences and walls. Its slightly lax habit with arching stems makes it suitable for cottage gardens and informal settings. Given that the perfume is so different to the rose-like sweetness of other winter flowering shrubs, such as daphne, Chimonanthus praecox is best planted a little way away from others so that its uniqueness can be better appreciated.
Originating in China, where it grows in the mountain foothills at altitudes up to 3,000m (10,000ft), it was introduced into Britain in 1766 and has been a popular winter flowering shrub ever since. It grows up to 3m (10ft) high and 3m (10ft) wide, and makes a small, domed bush. It likes a well-drained soil and is quite happy in chalky, alkaline conditions. It prefers full sun and a slightly sheltered site; growing against a wall is a popular choice for gardeners in exposed or very cold areas, where it can be pruned once a year after flowering by removing shoots that are growing outwards back to a couple of buds, and training the ones that are horizontal and flush with the wall. Some of the older wood on over-congested bushes should be removed to allow space for new, young, arching stems. Wintersweet will benefit from a 5cm (2in) deep level of mulch at the base of each plant in early May.
ALTERNATIVES
There are two commonly grown varieties of C. praecox. Firstly ‘Luteus’, which as the name suggests, has completely yellow flowers, so none of the attractive purple flushes on the petals, but flowers slightly later than the species, making it a better choice if you don’t venture outdoors in the depths of mid-winter. The other one is C. praecox ‘Grandiflorus’, which has larger leaves and the flowers are a deeper yellow, but possibly not such a powerful, spicy fragrance as the species.
89 |
LONICERA FRAGRANTISSIMA |
FORGET ANY ASSUMPTION YOU MAY HAVE THAT HONEYSUCKLE IS A PLANT ONLY TO BE ENJOYED ON BALMY SUMMER EVENINGS AND TRY GROWING THIS WINTER BEAUTY FOR FRAGRANCE AND FLOWERS.
The honeysuckle family is far more diverse than one might imagine. As well as providing gardeners with one of the quintessential sights and scents of summer, Lonicera also includes quick growing hedging plants and ground cover and, of course, the wonderful L. fragrantissima, a winter flowering shrub that brings delicate spidery blooms and a heady perfume to the barest of garden seasons.
Planted near a sunny wall, close to a path, it will give you the perfect excuse to venture out into the garden even on the coldest days, to remind yourself of far off halcyon times. The stemless creamy white flowers festoon twiggy stems from Christmas onwards, emitting a delicious, redolent scent and enough nectar to tempt out thirsty bumble bees on mild winter days. The more sun it receives the more flowers it will produce.
Normally deciduous, though it may keep its leaves in mild areas, L. fragrantissima grows to around 2m (6½ft) tall but will spread wider, and can be cut back hard if necessary. In order to ensure plenty of flowers the following year any pruning should be done in early spring, just after the flowers have faded. Otherwise it can largely be left to its own devices as it is unfussy about soil and surprisingly drought tolerant.
ALTERNATIVES
L. fragrantissima is fairly ordinary when not flowering, but, if you can get hold of it, the cultivar L. x purpusii ‘Winter Beauty’ produces reddish purple young shoots to extend the season of interest into spring and early summer.
90 |
FATSIA JAPONICA |
FATSIA JAPONICA BRINGS NOT ONLY A TOUCH OF THE EXOTIC TO A SHRUB BORDER BUT ALSO MAKES AN EXCELLENT STRUCTURAL EVERGREEN SHRUB WHERE SPACE IS LIMITED.
When Fatsia japonica was first brought to Britain it was assumed to be tender and you may find older books recommending it for a greenhouse display. In fact it is perfectly happy in our winter climate as long as it is not too exposed to cold north winds. It will also do well in fairly shady conditions, where other flowering shrubs would sulk.
The glossy, hand-shaped leaves are gorgeous, looking like they belong in a rainforest, and they can grow up to 50cm (20in) in size. However, branches are relatively sparse so the plant is never overwhelming, which makes it such a good choice for a small garden. It will eventually reach a height of around 4m (13ft), but can easily be kept in check by cutting back any long, unwanted stems. Its common name, the false castor oil plant, is a reference to its foliage shape and its resemblance to Ricinus communis, the true castor oil plant.
Although it looks good all year round, F. japonica is especially valuable in winter for the clusters of black, shiny berries that follow creamy white flowers held above the foliage. These look a little like huge ivy flowers and are just as attractive to late pollinating insects. As are the berries, which are thoroughly enjoyed by blackbirds.
ALTERNATIVES
There is really nothing quite like F. japonica that will flourish outside, however, for gardeners with an interest in botany, its close relation, x fatshedera lizei is a fascinating hybrid of Fatsia and ivy, slightly smaller- leaved but with a loose, climbing habit.
91 |
STACHYURUS PRAECOX |
A SHRUB WHICH REALLY STANDS OUT BEAUTIFULLY IN THE DARK DAYS OF WINTER, STACHYURUS PRAECOX’S STRINGS OF FLOWER BELLS HANG FROM EVERY BARE BRANCH, LOOKING JUST LIKE CATKINS.
Stachyurus praecox is a wonderful winter shrub, worth hunting out even though it is not the easiest of plants to find. In full flower it is festooned with drooping, lemon-yellow flowers resembling tiny cow bells, each one joined to a central stem that can be up to 10cm (4in) long. They hang almost all the way along the bare, reddish bronze branches, as if someone has deliberately pinned them up to dry.
S. praecox needs neutral to acid soil to do well, which makes it an excellent shrub for woodland- style gardens, although it does require some sun at least and is best in dappled shade. In its native Japan it grows at the edge of the woods, a pioneer paving the way for bigger trees to march onwards and outwards. Given the right conditions it will eventually reach a height of around 4m (13ft), but may also spread by nearly the same amount. Fortunately it has a nice open habit so even when the leaves unfurl it is not overpowering.
It is pretty much hardy in Britain, although it is wise to provide some shelter from strong, chilly winds. Otherwise, as long as the soil is not too heavy, with a good mulch of leaf litter to hold in moisture it should be perfectly happy.
ALTERNATIVES
The Stachyurus family is limited and most are not necessarily hardy but the other possible variety to try is S. chinensis, even more difficult to find, but a little more delicate in leaf and flower, which will cope well in milder areas.
92 |
SARCOCOCCA HOOKERIANA VAR. DIGYNA |
THE HONEY SCENT OF THE SWEET BOX, SARCOCOCCA HOOKERIANA VAR. DIGYNA IS A WONDERFUL SURPRISE GIVEN THE INCONSPICUOUS NATURE OF THIS UNASSUMING PLANT: SWEET, POWERFUL AND AS WARMING TO THE SPIRIT AS A HOT TODDY ON A WINTER’S DAY.
No commonly available member of the Sarcococca family could ever be called showy but they are lovely, useful little plants nevertheless. They will thrive despite most attempts to neglect them and tolerate a wide range of conditions, including difficult dry shade, a problem for most plants and most gardeners. They are ideal plants for shade in general, but can be grown in sun as long as the ground is naturally damp.
Sarcococca hookeriana var. digyna never grows too tall but will spread to around 2.5m (8ft) by suckers. Its evergreen leaves are a good, strong green that contrast well with the purplish stems. In winter the white flowers can hardly be seen, often hiding under the leaves but the scent they produce is unmistakeable, and they are then followed by glossy black berries that can remain on the plant for month after month.
S. hookeriana var. digyna is a perfect plant to grow in a pot near the door to make the most of the scent, but its real value lies in its tolerant nature, and it should always be first choice to cover a shady bank or slope where little else would grow.
ALTERNATIVES
For those with more space to fill, S. confusa grows to about twice the height of its smaller cousin and makes an excellent shrub for the middle of the border to provide evergreen structure throughout the year.
93 |
ERICA X DARLEYENSIS ‘WHITE PERFECTION’ |
ALTHOUGH THE HEATHER FAMILY HAS A REPUTATION FOR PREFERRING ACID SOIL, ERICA X DARLEYENSIS HAS BEEN BRED TO THRIVE IN NEUTRAL CONDITIONS AND WILL EVEN TOLERATE A BIT OF CHALKINESS.
It is strange that mentioning the plant heather seems to conjure up two opposing images – the wild, ling covered moors, backdrop for so many passionate, tempestuous fictional relationships, stand in complete contrast to the neat tidiness of a suburban garden where heather and dwarf conifers are marshalled by loving owners. This only serves to show that the heather is a plant for many situations. It is also a useful plant in many other ways, having been traditionally employed for bedding, fuel, cloth dye and making wonderful honey.
The acid-loving heathers tend to flower in the summer. Erica x darleyensis is different not only in its tolerance for less acidic conditions, but in its flowering season, making it a valuable addition to the garden in early winter. Given good soil that does not dry out too much it will perform well, not only smothering weeds but covering itself entirely in pretty-coloured, bell-shaped flowers. It needs only a light trim to remove any dead flowerheads and will then produce plenty of pinky cream new growth through the summer months.
E. x darleyensis ‘White Perfection’ is generally considered to be one of the best ericas available, with pure white flower spikes and strong foliage. It is spreading in habit rather than tall, reaching about 40cm (16in) in height, and has deep green foliage that turns a slight bronze in the winter months.
ALTERNATIVES
E. x darleyensis ‘Phoebe’ is a pretty salmon colour, compact and perfect for a smaller space or a pot display.
For extra height the award-winning E. x darleyensis ‘Kramer’s Rote’ and its cultivated varieties is an excellent choice.
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ERANTHIS HYEMALIS |
CARPETING THE WOODLAND FLOOR IN A VIVID, BRIGHT YELLOW COLOUR, WINTER ACONITES ADD A WARM GLOW AND ARE A WELCOME SPLASH OF COLOUR DURING SOME OF THE COLDEST AND DARKEST MONTHS OF THE YEAR.
Closely related to the buttercup, but far more attractive, is the pretty winter aconite. They produce bright yellow flowers upon a ruff of green, deeply divided flower bracts. Originally a woodland plant from Italy and southern France, they send out a flush of tulip-shaped flowers from mid- to late winter. Plant them under deciduous trees and shrubs to replicate their natural growing conditions. In the wild they flower, grow and seed all before the canopies of the overhead trees come into leaf, meaning they can maximise the sunlight during their small lifecycle above ground, while enjoying shelter from the larger trees. At Polesden Lacey in Surrey where I was garden manager we had masses of Eranthis hyemalis in the classic Graham Stuart Thomas designed Winter Garden, growing under three large Persian ironwood trees. They only reach about 10cm (4in) high and so need to be planted in large quantities to really make an impact.
Tubers should be planted in autumn and they prefer fertile, moist, but well-drained soil. They will freely seed themselves. If they become too congested they can be lifted while ‘in the green’, which basically means while still in leaf, and moved. Propagating them is easy too; simply dig up the tubers after flowering and cut them into smaller sections, before replanting. Like many bulbous plants, avoid cutting back their scruffy foliage after flowering as they need to continue growing to store energy for the following year. By mid-spring the foliage should have died down naturally.
ALTERNATIVES
There are a few rarer cultivars to try such as E. hyemalis ‘Guinea Gold’ with bronze green foliage and ‘Orange Glow’ with slightly deeper coloured flowers. There is also a double flowering one called ‘Flore Pleno’, which needs sheltered, shady locations to thrive. E. hyemalis ‘Cilicica Group’ is another popular variety with larger flowers and finer foliage.
95 |
BERGENIA ‘BALLAWLEY’ |
GLOSSY EVERGREEN LEAVES THAT COVER THE GROUND ARE NOT ALL THE BERGENIA HAS TO OFFER IF YOU CHOOSE THE RIGHT VARIETY. THERE ARE FLOWERS IN SPRING AND OCCASIONALLY AUTUMN, AND RICH WARM TONES THAT GLOW AND SHINE IN THE WINTER MONTHS.
Bergenia, sometimes called ‘elephant’s ear’, is a plant commonly recommended as ground cover for shady areas but this pigeonholing does it an injustice, condemning it to the darkest, gloomiest place in the garden and to mere workhorse status. Admittedly it is a very unfussy plant indeed, happy in all kinds of soil and situations except extreme dry heat, and the evergreen tough leaves do a wonderful job of denying light to any weeds trying to grow under them. However, that is by no means the end of the story.
In a way bergenia is almost two plants. Give it moist, rich soil in sun or partial shade and it will put on plenty of glossy, new, attractive growth and flowers in spring, but in poor soil and an exposed site it will put on a completely different type of display, equally rewarding at a time when choices are limited.
In the colder, frostier conditions of winter, the foliage of many bergenias will colour up wonderfully, with tones ranging from scarlet through burgundy almost to purple. Many of our greatest garden designers have made the most of this, bringing bergenia out from under its bushy hiding places and placing it at the front of the border or display. Here it takes its place as a great plant in its own right, chosen for its winter leaf change or as a vibrant backdrop to plantings of snowdrops and other early bulbs.
Bergenia ‘Ballawley’ will give you the best of both worlds. The largest of the bergenias, its pink flowers stand 60cm (2ft) tall, flowering in both late spring and to a lesser extent again in autumn. The extra-large leaves will then turn a rich, red bronze. Like all bergenias it requires very little attention, needing little more than the occasional removal of dead material and can be increased simply by cutting off some of the fleshy rhizomes for replanting.
ALTERNATIVES
If the bold structural statement of B. ‘Ballawley’ is a little too much for you then B. ‘Baby Doll’ might be more to your liking. At only 18cm (7in) high its pink flowers and smaller foliage provides a more delicate show. For maximum winter colour B. ‘Eric White’ is an excellent choice. Its upright leaves turn deep red, almost black and are simply gorgeous.
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HELLEBORUS X HYBRIDUS |
ONE OF THE BEST FLOWERING PERENNIALS FOR THE WINTER GARDEN, HELLEBORES PRODUCE LOVELY, SAUCER-SHAPED FLOWERS FROM AS EARLY AS DECEMBER, ALL THE WAY THROUGH TO APRIL DEPENDING ON THE SPECIES.
Their beauty and flowering season have earned them the names ‘Christmas rose’ and ‘Lenten rose’. Hellebores in general flower just after Christmas in a wide range of colours, from white through to the deepest purple-black, although the darker, smokier colours are usually the most desirable. Occasionally they have added spotted patterns.
The offspring of the oriental hellebores are notoriously variable, so just letting them self-seed around your garden could bring you some surprises, although the flowers themselves are always uniformly attractive whatever their eventual colour. It is always worth keeping an eye on the seedlings to see what may actually appear. Oriental hellebores, especially, are so variable that they are often sold by colour and type rather than by named varieties.
The evergreen leaves have a very distinct shape and are tough enough to survive snow without a problem, doing a wonderful job of protecting the unfurling flower buds. It is worth remembering that these older, overwintering leaves are best cut back just before the flowers open or they will continue to hide the delightful, outward-facing blooms. The new season’s leaves will appear soon enough.
The best spot to plant hellebore is under the canopy of deciduous trees, so that the flowers get the maximum amount of any available winter sunshine while enjoying cooler, shadier conditions in the summer months. This will also help shelter them, as they dislike being exposed to drying winds and will do less well in open, harsher sites.
Woodland conditions also guarantee their soil needs are met. Rich soil with plenty of leaf mould or other organic matter will be perfect, as long as it is not too acidic.
ALTERNATIVES
The plant usually called the Christmas rose is H. niger, a compact plant with blue-green leaves and pure white flowers that sometimes fade to pink as they age. It is smaller and a little better behaved than its oriental cousin but nevertheless a wonderful sight. For sunnier, more exposed conditions try the Corsican hellebore, H. angustifolia, with its spiky, silver-green leaves and green flowers. It packs quite an architectural punch.
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GALANTHUS ELWESII |
THERE IS NO SIGHT THAT CHEERS THE HEART MORE THAN THE SNOWDROP NUDGING UPWARDS THROUGH THE FROST AND SNOW OF LATE WINTER, FOLLOWED BY A MULTITUDE OF DELICATE, NODDING BELLS. MINIATURE PERFECTION WITH VERY LITTLE EFFORT.
The humble snowdrop is one of our best-loved plants and one of the easiest to grow, requiring little more than a well-drained soil with plenty of leafy mulch. This makes it ideal for planting under deciduous trees, where there is plenty of springtime light before the canopy unfolds, and dappled, cooling shade in the summer months. Not that the snowdrop necessarily requires shade as such. Try planting them on a north-facing bank and they should thrive, with the added advantage of being a little easier to examine closely without getting down on one’s hands and knees.
All snowdrops are tiny plants, normally reaching little more than 15cm (6in) high at most, but Galanthus elwesii is almost a giant in comparison to the others. At around 30cm (12in) tall it makes for a surprisingly dramatic display when planted en masse. The leaves are relatively broad for a snowdrop but it is the flowers that make this plant so special. The three outer sepals seem to open wider than others and their length and shape are reminiscent of moth wings, while the inner flower has emerald spots, which contribute to the effect of a silky-winged insect at rest. They are absolutely fascinating to look at and, to add to the attraction, also have a definite honey scent.
G. elwesii are perfectly hardy and the flowers are amongst the earliest to appear so a drift of these is almost certainly guaranteed to appear each year. Like other snowdrops they are easily increased by digging up congested clumps as soon as the flowers are over and replanting sections ‘in the green’. This garden term simply indicates a bulb planted while it still has green leaves and is generally thought to be the most successful way of spreading snowdrops out. Having said that, G. elwesii, coming from the mountains of Turkey with hot, dry summers, can tolerate drying out after lifting and survive. Keep lifting and dividing this way and you will end up with a carpet of nodding white bells.
ALTERNATIVES
Lovers of the snowdrop have a wealth of cultivars and types to choose from, thanks to their natural tendency to change and the tireless efforts of breeders. G. nivalis, the common snowdrop, is always a perfectly good choice for large-scale planting drifts, either under trees or even in grass, but there are many, many fancier snowdrops to be found from specialist nurseries, including yellow-marked, double and upward-facing flowers, and even an autumn flowering snowdrop.
98 |
HEDERA ‘BUTTERCUP’ |
CLIMBING IVY, THE DARK GREEN LEAVES THAT CLOTHE OUR WALLS AND ABANDONED BUILDINGS, WILL BE FAMILIAR TO MOST, BUT SOME MEMBERS OF THIS FAMILY, LIKE HEDERA ‘BUTTERCUP’, HAVE A MORE CHEERFUL EFFECT AND CAN PERFORM A DIFFERENT FUNCTION.
One of the few plants that can cope with dense, dry shade, ivy is usually recommended for places where no other plant could survive. Although officially a climber for trees, walls or unsightly objects, it is also much used in gardens as ground cover, since most varieties are as happy growing horizontally as they are vertically and its trailing habit can also be utilised in pots and planters. In effect the long tendrils of ivy have one purpose and one purpose only, which is to cover bareness, wherever it finds it.
The standard dark green ivies provide a good background for lighter planting schemes, making an excellent substitute for yew hedges in smaller gardens, and surviving where yew could not. As long as ivy is kept away from house gutters and eaves and lightly trimmed once a year it will rarely be a problem. The aerial roots that it uses to attach itself do no permanent harm.
It is worth remembering though that there is a noticeable difference between juvenile ivy, with its defined leaves and tendrils and its mature, flowering form, which will appear if ivy is left to grow unfettered. When mature the leaves broaden and become less shapely, the growth bushes out in all directions and in late summer cream flowerheads appear that are a magnet for flying insects of many types, followed by the black berries that are loved by birds. Mature ivy is one of the best wildlife attractors of any garden, providing shelter and food for any number of creatures but its weight and the restrictions on cutting it in the bird nesting season make it a little more problematic to live with.
Few such issues surround Hedera ‘Buttercup’, however, as long as it is planted in a sheltered position. Growing only to around 2m (6½ft) high, H. ‘Buttercup’ is much more manageable, and it will bring not Gothic gloominess but sunshine brightness to your walls. This is a plant that really deserves to be centre stage. Indeed planting it in the background in shade would be a pointless exercise as its glorious yellow leaves need sun at least some of the time to keep their colour. It is a perfect choice for a city garden or a courtyard, preferring chalky soil but tolerating a wider range of conditions happily.
ALTERNATIVES
H. colchica has the largest leaves and is an excellent choice for ground cover in difficult places. In pots, especially for winter displays, small-leaved ivies, such as H. ‘Garland’ can be allowed to trail over the edge.
99 |
CLEMATIS CIRRHOSA VAR. PURPURESCENS ‘FRECKLES’ |
IF YOU ARE PREPARED TO PROTECT THIS WONDERFUL PLANT FROM THE WORST OF THE WINTER WEATHER YOU WILL BE REWARDED WITH ONE OF THE MOST DELIGHTFUL WINTER FLOWERING DISPLAYS IMAGINABLE. PURE MAGIC.
Gardeners are fortunate to have such a wide variety of clematis to choose from, providing flowers almost the whole year round. Although the big summer clematis are the most familiar and popular, Clematis cirrhosa var. purpurescens ‘Freckles’ has a charm that can supersede all of its showy cousins and is all the more welcome in a garden at a time when so little else is available. This clematis is festooned from late autumn right the way through to early spring with delectable speckled blooms and silky seedheads.
Its evergreen leaves become slightly bronze during the winter months and make a superb backdrop to the four-petalled flowers that start off as creamy yellow bells before opening up and showing off their maroon speckles. The overall effect is reminiscent of butterfly wings. As the flowers are followed by wispy, silky seedheads, there is always a fairy lightness to this plant that makes it irresistible.
In mild areas this clematis needs only the shelter of a north wall and to enjoy as much warmth as the winter sunshine can provide. In colder areas it is probably best grown in a pot so that it can be brought inside when harsh weather threatens. Otherwise it is perfectly happy in fertile, neutral to chalk soil, where it should be planted, unlike many other clematis, at the same level as its surroundings. If you can shade the roots with another plant it will perform even better.
Pruning is also less tricky than for other clematis. In late spring, after flowering, simply remove any dead or damaged stems as required. Untangling is usually a waste of time and the plant is better cut back completely almost to the ground every now and again if control is needed. It will reshoot quickly and should then be left for at least three years before performing such drastic surgery again.
ALTERNATIVES
There are other C. cirrhosa available to try. C. cirrhosa var. balearica is the Majorcan original and has more muted, lighter spotting that produces a slightly antiqued effect, while C. cirrhosa ‘Wisley Cream’ has no markings at all, just creamy, elegant flowers.
100 |
JASMINUM NUDIFLORUM |
JASMINUM NUDIFLORUM IS ALWAYS ONE OF THE FIRST PLANTS OF THE YEAR TO COME INTO FLOWER, PRODUCING ITS BUTTER-YELLOW, FLARED TRUMPETS ALL ALONG ARCHING BARE STEMS OF BRIGHT GREEN. ONLY AFTER FLOWERING DOES IT PUT OUT ITS LEAVES.
I adore this sprawling shrub, the winter jasmine, and thankfully where I live on the south coast I see it everywhere. In the sandstone walls of South Devon seaside towns, this plant can often be found cascading out of nooks and crannies where one could hardly believe anything could grow, let alone a shrub wreathed in bright yellow flowers in the middle of winter.
It is completely hardy, vigorous and very easy to grow, requiring very little in the way of fertility, hence its ability to grow out of walls or on cliff faces with shallow soil. This makes it a very useful plant for covering a steep bank, where its cascading effect will be at its best and its cheerful brightness a welcome relief during dark winter days. It is also a useful plant to train up a trellis or wire, although its natural habit is always to arch outwards, so if the idea of controlling does not appeal try growing it naturally over a low wall instead.
Jasminum nudiflorum needs the occasional trim, removing weak stems and leaving the stronger growth, and it is beneficial, though not essential, to remove a few of the older stems each year to encourage new growth from the base to keep the plant fresh.
ALTERNATIVES
There are no hybrids or cultivated varieties of winter flowering jasmine but you could substitute the shrub Coronilla valentina subsp. glauca for a more substantial effect within borders where J. nudiflorum’s arching habit would be unsuitable. The pea-like, yellow flowers are fragrant and also arrive in winter and early spring on a bushier shrub with blue-grey leaves.
Betula utilis var. jacquemontii
Ilex aquifolium ‘Pyramidalis’
Clematis cirrhosa var.purpurescens ‘Freckles’
Helleborus x hybridus
Erica x darleyensis ‘White Perfection’
Bergenia ‘Ballawley’
Eranthus hymenales
Galanthus elwesii
A winter border can look extremely elegant if the right plants are chosen, especially those that will shine through low light levels. In this design the glossy dark greens of the Ilex aquifolium ‘Pyramidalis’ and the leathery hellebore leaves are a foil for the white trunks of the Betula utilis and the Galanthus elwesii underplanting.
• Plant and train Clematis cirrhosa var. purpurescens ‘Freckles’ up the wall or fence on the left side.
• Plant one Betula utilis at the back left of the border and another three towards the right. In between plant the Ilex aquifolium ‘Pyramidalis’ where its shape will not be impeded by other plants. At each of the front corners place Erica x darleyensis ‘White Perfection’ to add some low structural interest.
• Begenia ‘Ballawley’ can be planted in drifts along the back of the border with clumps of Helleborus x hybridus and Eranthus hymenales in front. Any remaining space can be filled with Galanthus elwesii.
A WINTER GARDEN CAN BRING AS MUCH JOY AS THE FIRST FRESH, BRIGHT BLOSSOMS OF SPRING. THESE BORDER IDEAS COMBINE STUNNING COLOUR WITH INTENSE FRAGRANCE FOR AN ALL-ROUND SENSORY EXPERIENCE.
With winter sunlight filtering through the planting, this kidney shaped bed will glow and bring real joy and colour to your winter garden. Both the Salix and Cornus will need hard pruning in spring to ensure that their stems remain colourful.
Prunus serrula
Cornus ‘Midwinter Fire’
Salix alba var. vitellina ‘Britzensis’
Erica x darleyensis ‘White Perfection’
• Plant Prunus serrula with its lovely bark to the right of your bed, then add clumps of Cornus ‘Midwinter Fire’ towards the centre and Salix alba var. vitellina to the right. Edge the bed with Erica x darleyensis ‘White Perfection’ for structural contrast.
If you have space outside a window or door this small grouping of scented plants is guaranteed to bring you pleasure without venturing too far in cold weather.
Mahonia x media ‘Charity’
Daphne mezereum
Sarcococca hookeriana var. digyna
• Plant Mahonia x media ‘Charity’ on the right hand side. Add Sarcoccocca hookeriana var. digyna at the front and Daphne mezereum on the left hand side.
Pruning a plant can be very satisfying. It may seem harsh, to stand there in winter wielding a pair of secateurs, loppers or a saw and start removing some of the limbs of a tree or shrub. However, very often the plant will benefit enormously from this ‘surgery’ and it should encourage the plant to flourish for years to come.
There are numerous reasons why it may be necessary to prune a tree or shrub:
1. Pruning can give the plant better shape. Some trees and shrubs get leggy and lose their structure. Sometimes it can be a specific shape, such as with topiary; at other times trees are merely pruned to keep the tree looking balanced.
2. Pruning reinvigorates a tree. So if you have a spindly tree that isn’t growing well, it may be encouraged to put on more growth if it is pruned. Very often by pruning the tip of a shrub back by about a third, it will encourage more laterals (side shoots) to grow. This is often done on fruit bushes to encourage more fruiting shoots.
3. Pruning helps to improve the circulation of air around a tree or shrub. If a tree’s branches are really congested it can cause fungal problems due to poor air circulation and a build-up of both pests and diseases.
4. Trees with ornamental trunks, such as birch and Prunus serula, look better if the lower branches are removed so that it can be seen more easily. This process is called crown lifting.
5. Plants that have colourful winter stems like cornus or willow can also be pruned down to near ground level to encourage a plant to send out more colourful stems. This is usually done just before the plant comes into growth in late winter. Some plants, such as hazel and sweet chestnut are also often pruned in this way to encourage young, new, straight stems that can then be harvested later and be used for plant supports and stakes. This process is called coppicing. Some trees are pruned higher up the trunk, in a technique called pollarding.
6. It can improve better fruiting or flowering. For example, roses or wisteria are often pruned in late winter as this encourages more flowers for the following year. Fruit trees will nearly always fruit more if pruned. Do remember, though, that most of the stone fruit family (plums, cherries, damsons, peaches, apricots etc.) should only be pruned when in growth (so not winter) as it can cause disease to enter the plant.
7. Sometimes it is necessary to prune a plant for the benefit of a neighbouring plant. For example, if a tree has outgrown its space and is casting too much shade over its surrounding area, it might be preventing plants nearby from growing properly.
8. To remove dead, dying or diseased branches. If these aren’t removed they can become a source of infection and the infection can spread to the remainder of the tree.
Secateurs are the essential tool for pruning. The best type of secateurs are bypass types that have a cutting action similar to scissors. They give the cleanest cut without damaging the plant. Anvil-type secateurs are the other poplar type whereby one blade comes down onto another. These are fine, but can cause the remaining wood to become crushed, which can lead to infection.
Loppers are useful for cutting larger shoots. Some of the more expensive types have a ratchet system that helps you get through the really thick stuff.
Pruning saws are used for the largest branches. They are designed so that they can fit into small spaces and help you get a clean cut. Some are folding types, which are really useful for carrying around in your pocket when out and about in the garden.
• Prune dogwoods in late winter or early spring each year just before they come into growth. Start by removing any damaged or diseased shoots.
• Next, look to remove any weak or wispy growth to make the plant look tidier.
• Prune back the new growth on remaining larger shoots to about two buds from the base of the plant. These are the ones you want to shoot out and provide the winter interest next year.
• Remove some of the gnarly old stems and spurs at the base of the plant because if they all send out shoots then the winter stems will look messy and tangled.
Enjoying gardening is not just about choosing and planting our favourite plants. They all need some looking after, even the low-maintenance ones. However, looking after them is just as rewarding as planting them. It gets you outside in all kinds of weather, enjoying the wildlife, getting pleasure from making your hands dirty, and getting up close and personal with those plants that you put in the ground for fun.
Whether we like it or not, one of the most common jobs in the garden is weeding. In fact during the spring and summer it can seem like that is all you’re doing in the garden. The best method of reducing the amount of future weeding is ‘prevention’. Avoiding having bare soil is the key, because wherever there is exposed ground weeds will quickly colonise it. Ideally empty beds should be planted up with exciting new plants, but if this isn’t possible then they can be covered with weed-supressing membranes or a natural mulch, such as well-rotted manure or garden compost until it can be planted up.
The reason for removing weeds is not just because they can look unsightly, but also because they compete with your existing plants for nutrients and water in the soil. Some weeds get so big that they will also swamp and smother the plants, blocking out light and preventing them from growing to their full potential.
There are essentially two different types of weeds, annuals and perennials. The former are usually easier to control and spread by seeding everywhere. Some of them will pull easily out of the ground by hand; others can be removed by hoeing. Ideally try to remove the weeds before they form their seedheads and start spreading everywhere. Annuals can be left to desiccate on the surface after hoeing in warm, sunny weather. Otherwise they can be raked up and added to the compost heap.
Examples of annual weeds: fat hen, annual meadow grass, chickweed, groundsel, annual nettle, hairy bittercress.
Perennials are far harder to control as they have pernicious root systems that lie beneath the surface of the soil. All the roots of these plants need removing to eradicate them completely. That’s not always an easy task considering that some roots can be several metres below the surface. To make matters even worse, unless the plant with all its root is removed, it can still spread if added to the compost heap immediately. Perennial roots should be bagged up and removed, or they should be left out to dry in the sun for a few weeks before finally being added to the compost.
Examples of perennial weeds: bindweed, ground elder, knotweed, perennial stinging nettle, dandelion, brambles, Equisetum (mare’s tail).
Stay on top of weeds otherwise they could take over your garden.
A hoe is excellent for getting rid of annual weeds but will leave the roots of perennials in the ground.
