Say you wake up tomorrow morning to a polite knock on your door from a group of E.T.-looking alien fools, demanding the answer to one simple question about humanity: What is lasagna? Armed with this chapter, you could provide a pretty well-rounded answer.
In these first eight recipes, you’ll find the most foundational formulas of pasta, sauce, and cheese. There are lasagnas you’ll recognize from your grandma’s kitchen, the ice-crusted box of Stouffer’s in the back of your freezer, or the charmingly dysfunctional red-sauce joint in your neighborhood.
Later in the book, we’ll dig deeper into the world of baked pastas like elegant lasagna timpanos and new interpretations like crunchy life-changing deep-fried bricks of lasagna. But for now, let’s start with the classics.
CLASSIC MEAT SAUCE & RICOTTA LASAGNA
This is the most essential, cartooniest lasagna in this book—definitely Garfield-approved. When they create a lasagna emoji (fingers crossed!), this will be the model: wavy noodles, fluffy ricotta, a sweet tomato sauce full of ground beef, and a lightly blistered layer of gooey mozzarella crowning the top. Classic and simple, this is the lasagna you’ll dig into over warm, raucous gatherings full of mismatched plates and spilled Chianti.
8 TO 12 SERVINGS
Meat Sauce
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, minced
12 ounces (¾ pound) extra-lean ground beef (96% lean)
4 tablespoons tomato paste
1 (28-ounce) can tomato puree
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
½ teaspoon dried thyme
1 dried bay leaf
Coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal) and freshly ground black pepper
Lasagna
2 pounds ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 ounces freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about ½ cup)
1 pound low-moisture mozzarella cheese (not fresh), shredded (about 4 cups)
2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal)
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large egg, beaten
15 dry lasagna noodles, cooked and cooled (see this page)
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Make the meat sauce: Heat the olive oil in a medium pot over medium heat until shimmering, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the ground beef and cook, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring gently, until the paste darkens slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomato puree, sugar, oregano, thyme, bay leaf, and 3 cups water. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper and bring to a boil. Cover partially, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the sauce is thick and has reduced to about 6 cups, about 45 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reserve 4 cups of the sauce for the lasagna and keep the rest warm for serving. Discard the bay leaf.
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Make the cheese mixture: Preheat the oven to 375°F and position a rack in the center. In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, parsley, ¼ cup of the Parmesan, two thirds (about 2⅔ cups) of the mozzarella (reserve the remaining cheese for the top), the salt, and the pepper. Add the egg and stir to combine.
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Assemble the lasagna: Spread 1 cup of the meat sauce in the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch (3-quart) glass or ceramic baking dish. Arrange 5 of the noodles, overlapping slightly, in the dish. Spoon half of the ricotta mixture onto the noodles, then use the back of the spoon or a butter knife to spread in an even layer. Top with 1 cup of the sauce, spreading evenly. Arrange another 5 noodles on top, followed by the remaining ricotta mixture and another 1 cup sauce. Arrange the remaining noodles on top and spread with an even layer of 1 cup sauce.
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Bake the lasagna: Sprinkle the remaining mozzarella and Parmesan on top and bake until the top is browned, the noodles are crusty around the edges, and the sauce is bubbling, about 45 minutes. Remove the lasagna from the oven and set it aside to rest for 20 minutes before cutting into squares and serving. Serve the remaining sauce on the side.
LASAGNA WITH MEATBALLS & SUNDAY SAUCE
If you manage to make a batch of Sunday Sauce (this page), there is a definite chance that you will accidentally keep wandering into the kitchen in a sausage-scented daze, taking a taste here and there until the whole pot has somehow vanished. If your sauce survives its two-hour simmer, however, then you’re going to want to make a pan of this lasagna. The sauce is meaty enough (from a combination of Italian sausage, meatballs, and pork shoulder) that it feels less like a sauce and more like a hearty, spicy three-course meal hiding under sheets of curly noodles and golden-brown Pecorino Romano cheese.
10 TO 12 SERVINGS
2 pounds ricotta cheese
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil leaves
2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, freshly grated (about ½ cup)
1 pound low-moisture mozzarella cheese (not fresh), shredded (about 4 cups)
2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal)
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs, beaten
½ recipe Sunday Sauce (this page), meat and sauce separated (12 meatballs, 4 cups sauce, 2 sausages, and half of the braised pork), warm
15 dry lasagna noodles, cooked and cooled (see this page)
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Make the cheese mixture: Preheat the oven to 375°F and position a rack in the center. In a large bowl, combine the ricotta, parsley, and basil. Add ¼ cup of the Pecorino Romano cheese and 2⅔ cups of the mozzarella (reserve the remaining cheese for the top) and season with the salt and pepper. Add the eggs and stir to combine.
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Assemble the lasagna: Cut the 12 meatballs from the Sunday Sauce in half. Spread 1 cup of the sauce (no meat) in the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch (3-quart) glass or ceramic baking dish. Arrange 5 of the noodles, overlapping slightly, in the dish. Spoon half of the ricotta mixture onto the noodles, spreading to an even layer. Top with 1 cup of the sauce and half of the meatballs, sausages, and pork. Arrange another 5 noodles on top, followed by the remaining ricotta mixture, 1 cup sauce, and the remaining 6 meatballs, 1 sausage, and the pork. Arrange the remaining 5 noodles on top and spread with the remaining 1 cup sauce. In a small bowl, toss together the remaining mozzarella and Pecorino Romano and sprinkle over the lasagna.
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Bake the lasagna: Bake until the top is browned and crusty around the edges and bubbling, about 45 minutes. Let the lasagna rest for 20 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.
CREAMY MUSHROOM LASAGNA
This simplified lasagna is built around a few handfuls of mushrooms that require only about fifteen minutes to caramelize on the stovetop. Since mushrooms are the star here, it’s a great opportunity to use those blue oysters you found at the co-op, or the chestnut mushrooms you picked up at the greenmarket. If you end up sticking to the standard creminis and oysters from the grocery store, rest assured the final result will still taste great.
8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Lasagna
2 pounds mushrooms, cleaned and sliced (oyster, cremini, and chanterelle varieties are all great)
1 large shallot, halved and thinly sliced (about ¾ cup)
1½ teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
1½ teaspoons chopped fresh sage
1½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal) and freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds ricotta cheese (4 cups)
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, freshly grated (about ½ cup)
1 pound Fontina cheese, coarsely grated
15 dry lasagna noodles, cooked and cooled (see this page)
Béchamel
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup all-purpose flour
3 cups whole milk
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
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Cook the mushrooms: Preheat the oven to 375°F and position the oven rack in the center. In a large bowl, combine the mushrooms, shallot, and herbs. In a very large skillet set over medium heat, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter with the olive oil. Add the mushroom mixture and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is evaporated and the mushrooms are golden, about 12 minutes. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper, and transfer to a bowl. Set aside.
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Make the cheese mixtures: In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta with half of the Parmesan and season with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. In another bowl, combine the Fontina and remaining Parmesan.
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Make the béchamel: In a medium saucepan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook over moderately high heat, whisking constantly (be sure to get into the edges of the pan—a flat whisk works best), until lightly golden and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the milk all at once and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low, and whisk until the sauce is thick, about 8 minutes. Add the nutmeg and season with 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.
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Assemble the lasagna: Spread a thin layer of béchamel (about ½ cup) on the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch (3-quart) glass or ceramic baking dish. Arrange 5 of the noodles, slightly overlapping, in the dish. Add half of the ricotta mixture, spreading it to an even layer, and top with half of the mushrooms. Top with one third of the Fontina mixture. Drizzle with one third of the remaining béchamel sauce. Repeat with 5 more noodles, the remaining ricotta and mushrooms, half of the remaining Fontina mixture, and half of the remaining béchamel. Top with the remaining 5 noodles, Fontina mixture, and béchamel.
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Bake the lasagna: Cover the baking dish loosely with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake until golden and bubbling, 20 to 25 minutes longer. Let rest for 15 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.
ETHIOPIAN LASAGNA
For Hannah Giorgis, a journalist and TASTE contributor, Ethiopia and Eritrea are as much a part of lasagna’s history as Italy or the United States. As a result of Italy’s long, complicated past as a colonizer of these countries in the Horn of Africa, lasagna has found its way onto party buffets right alongside the injera and the doro wat. In Hannah’s recipe, green onions, berbere (a spice mix of ginger, chiles, nigella, and fenugreek), and smoky paprika scent the meat sauce, and the whole thing is topped with a sprinkling of mozzarella and orange Cheddar cheese to give it a warm, golden hue.
8 TO 10 SERVINGS
Meat Sauce
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced
2 large fresh tomatoes, chopped
2 scallions, white and green parts, thinly sliced
8 large garlic cloves, minced
1½ pounds ground beef (85% lean)
1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal), plus more to taste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon berbere spice mix (or more to taste)
2 (15-ounce) cans tomato sauce
2 dried bay leaves
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon dried oregano
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
Lasagna
Olive oil or softened butter for baking dish
1 pound mozzarella cheese, shredded (about 4 cups)
8 ounces orange Cheddar cheese, shredded (about 2 cups)
15 dry lasagna noodles, cooked and cooled (see this page)
2 ounces freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about ½ cup)
Pan spray
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Make the meat sauce: Heat the olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and cook gently without browning until soft, about 3 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes, scallions, and garlic. Cook until the tomatoes are broken down and the liquid is slightly reduced, 3 to 5 minutes.
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Add the beef to the pot, breaking up clumps with a wooden spoon. Add the salt and pepper, then cook until the meat is browned, about 15 minutes. If you prefer a thinner sauce, add about ½ cup water to the meat as it cooks.
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Stir in the tomato paste and berbere and cook until slightly darkened and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes, before adding the tomato sauce, bay leaves, paprika, coriander, oregano, and basil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened and slightly reduced, about 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Discard the bay leaves.
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Preheat the oven to 375°F with the rack in the center and grease a 9 x 13-inch (3-quart) glass or ceramic baking dish with olive oil or softened butter.
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Make the cheese mixture: Just before you are ready to assemble the lasagna, stir 1 cup of the mozzarella directly into the sauce. In a bowl, combine the remaining 3 cups of mozzarella with the Cheddar.
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Assemble the lasagna: Ladle ½ cup of the meat sauce mixture into the baking dish, spreading to cover evenly. Follow with a layer of 5 noodles, then one third of the remaining sauce, then one third of the mixed cheeses. repeat with 5 more noodles, half of the remaining sauce, and half of the remaining mixed cheeses. Top with the remaining 5 noodles, sauce, and mixed cheeses. Sprinkle the Parmesan over the top layer of mozzarella and Cheddar.
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Bake the lasagna: Spray the shiny side of a sheet of aluminum foil with pan spray, then cover the lasagna with the greased side facing down, folding the edges over the sides of the pan. Bake covered for 45 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for another 15 minutes or until a significant portion of the top cheese layer has browned. Allow to cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing and serving.
SUMMER VEGGIE LASAGNA
Do you ever think back wistfully to the 1990s and wonder why we stopped putting zucchini, bell peppers, and button mushrooms in everything? This recipe resurrects the Clinton-era combination in baked-pasta form. By seasoning and browning all of the vegetables together before layering them in the pasta, you draw out the moisture and caramelize and intensify their sweetness so your veggies are extra flavorful. Adding a bit of fresh parsley and crushed fennel seeds (hallmark seasonings of a good sweet Italian sausage) keeps the flavors bright and fresh.
8 TO 12 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 ounces white button mushrooms, stemmed and quartered
1 small yellow onion, cut into ½-inch pieces
Coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal) and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces
1 pound zucchini, trimmed and cut into ½-inch pieces
½ teaspoon crushed fennel seeds or fennel pollen
1 pound ricotta cheese
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 ounces freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about ½ cup)
1 large egg
8 ounces low-moisture mozzarella cheese (not fresh), shredded
1 recipe (4½ cups) Classic & Simple Red Sauce (this page), warm
15 dry lasagna noodles, cooked and cooled (see this page)
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Cook the vegetables: Preheat the oven to 375°F and position a rack in the center. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until any liquid is evaporated and the mushrooms are lightly browned, 8 to 12 minutes. Add the onion, season with 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining oil and the bell peppers, zucchini, and fennel seeds or pollen and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned and tender, about 10 minutes longer. Season generously with salt and pepper.
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Make the cheese mixture: In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, parsley, and half of the Parmesan and season to taste with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Stir in the egg and half of the mozzarella.
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Assemble the lasagna: Spread ½ cup of the red sauce in the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch (3-quart) glass or ceramic baking dish. Arrange 5 of the noodles, overlapping slightly, in the dish. Spoon half of the ricotta mixture onto the noodles, spreading to an even layer, followed by half of the vegetables. Top with 1½ cups of the sauce. Arrange another 5 noodles on top, followed by the remaining ricotta mixture and vegetables and another 1½ cups sauce. Arrange the remaining noodles on top and spread with the remaining sauce.
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Bake the lasagna: Sprinkle the remaining mozzarella and Parmesan on top and bake until the top is browned and crusty around the edges and the cheese is bubbling, about 45 minutes. Let the lasagna rest 20 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.
SLOW-COOKER SPINACH RICOTTA LASAGNA
A slow-cooker lasagna recipe? Believe. Since the countertop crock traps in moisture and maintains a consistent low temperature, you can construct this lasagna with totally uncooked pasta (yes, really). All the ingredients (the baby spinach, the ricotta, the red sauce) hang out and cook together for three and a half hours, and come dinnertime, the noodles have absorbed any extra liquid, and the basil and spinach have played nicely with the cheeses. Is your slow cooker round? Or oval shaped? No problem—just break the pasta up into slightly smaller pieces as you go so it all fits.
6 TO 8 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
¼ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
10 ounces baby spinach
Coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal) and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups (15 ounces) ricotta cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
1 pound low-moisture mozzarella cheese (not fresh), shredded (about 4 cups)
1 recipe (4½ cups) Classic & Simple Red Sauce (this page), warm
9 dry, curly lasagna noodles (uncooked)
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Make the spinach-and-cheese mixture: Set a 5-quart slow cooker to the high heat setting and preheat while you prepare the filling. Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook on high heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, rosemary, and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the spinach to the skillet in large handfuls and give it a few stirs, allowing each handful to wilt for about a minute before adding more. Season to taste with salt and black pepper and transfer to a colander to drain and cool slightly. Gently press the spinach to extract some of the liquid.
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In a bowl, combine the ricotta, basil, three fourths of the mozzarella (about 3 cups; save the remaining mozzarella for the top), ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Fold in the spinach.
Assemble the lasagna: Spoon 1 cup of the sauce into the slow cooker. Arrange 3 lasagna noodles over the sauce, breaking them to fit and cover any empty spots. Spread half of the ricotta mixture over the noodles and top with 1 cup of the sauce. Top with 3 more noodles, breaking to fit. Add the remaining ricotta mixture and another cup of the sauce. Top with the remaining 3 noodles, breaking to fit, and the remaining sauce.
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Slow cook the lasagna: Cover the slow cooker, placing a clean kitchen towel between the lid and the slow cooker to catch condensation. Cook on high heat until the noodles are tender and the sauce is absorbed, about 3½ hours. Sprinkle the remaining mozzarella on top, cover, and cook until melted, about 10 minutes. Turn cooker off and let rest, uncovered, for 15 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.
To Make In the Oven
Use 15 cooked noodles (5 for each layer; see this page), and assemble in a 9 x 13-inch (3-quart) glass or ceramic baking dish according to the previous instructions. Top with mozzarella and bake, uncovered, at 375°F for 45 minutes. Let rest for 15 minutes before serving.
CLASSIC BOLOGNESE & BÉCHAMEL LASAGNA
There are times when you want a lasagna packed with melty, stretchy cheese. This is not that time; lasagna Bolognese is for when you want to spotlight subtle flavors and textures like peppery nutmeg in a Parmesan-laced béchamel with butter-softened celery and carrots in the rich, beefy ragu. Lasagna Bolognese takes time to make (the sauce alone takes about ninety minutes), but the payoff is enormous. If you’re having people over for Sunday dinner, or just trying to get your family to sit down at the same time for a shared meal, make the sauce a day or two before, and make lots of it (the recipe doubles easily) for a quicker overall prep time. By the way, Bolognese sauce gets better overnight in the refrigerator (and is pure gold when you find some hidden in the freezer), and, bonus, you can use leftovers as a spaghetti topping all week long.
8 TO 12 SERVINGS
Unsalted butter, for the dish
1 recipe (4 cups) Thick Béchamel (this page)
½ recipe (6 sheets; about 8 ounces) Fresh Pasta Sheets (this page)
½ recipe (3 cups) Ragu Bolognese (this page), warm
4 ounces freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 1 cup)
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Preheat the oven to 375°F and position a rack in the center.
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Assemble the lasagna: Mix together ½ cup of the béchamel sauce and ¼ cup of room-temperature water and spread it in a 9 x 13-inch (3-quart) glass or ceramic baking dish, then top with one third of the noodles (2 sheets). Spread 1 cup of the béchamel sauce on the pasta and cover with 1½ cups of the Bolognese sauce. Sprinkle with ⅓ cup of the Parmesan. Repeat with another layer of noodles, 1 cup of the béchamel, the remaining Bolognese sauce, and ⅓ cup of the Parmesan. Top with the remaining noodles, béchamel, and Parmesan.
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Bake the lasagna: Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Uncover and bake until bubbling and the top is golden, about 20 minutes longer. Let rest for 15 minutes before cutting into squares and serving.
MOUSSAKA
When we asked Philadelphia chef Michael Solomonov about his favorite lasagna recipe, his answer was simple: moussaka. Skeptical as we were, it was hard to deny that the classic Greek dish has a number of lasagna hallmarks; after all, many historians speculate that lasagna has its roots in ancient Greece (see this page). In this version, adapted from his award-winning cookbook Zahav, there are eggplant layers rather than pasta; ground beef cooked simply and quickly with onions, carrots, and cinnamon; and a spicy tomato sauce. Some classic versions include a top layer of béchamel, but in his, Michael avoids the mixture of milk and meat so that the dish is a little lighter (and potentially kosher).
8 SERVINGS
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1 cup)
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 pound ground beef (85% lean)
¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1½ teaspoons ground coriander
Coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal) and freshly ground black pepper
1 medium eggplant (about 1¼ pounds), sliced crosswise ¼ inch thick on a mandoline or with a sharp knife
¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 cup Classic & Simple Red Sauce (this page), warm
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Make the meat mixture: Warm 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened but not begun to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the beef, cinnamon, coriander, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper, stirring to incorporate, and continue cooking, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon until the beef is cooked through and begins to brown, another 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.
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Bake the eggplant: Preheat the oven to 400°F and position a rack in the center. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Brush each side of the eggplant slices with oil, using about ¼ cup in total. Arrange the slices on the prepared baking sheet and season with ¾ teaspoon salt. Bake until the eggplant softens, about 5 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 350°F.
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Bake the moussaka: Brush the bottom of a 9-inch glass or ceramic pie dish with oil and line it with the eggplant slices, leaving some to hang over the sides. Mix the parsley with the ground beef and spoon it over the eggplant. Top with the red sauce. Fold the overhanging eggplant over the filling. Drizzle the top with more oil. Bake until the top begins to brown in spots, about 30 minutes. Let the moussaka rest at room temperature for 30 minutes before slicing and serving. Or cool completely and reheat to serve.