| Start | Meiringen (595m) |
| Distance | 8km (one way) |
| Height gain | 733m |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 3hrs |
| Location | SSW of Meiringen |
Rosenlaui has a magical ring about it. Snug among the trees at the foot of the Wellhorn on the way to the Grosse Scheidegg, it is very much a climbing centre, with the big walls of the Engelhörner nearby. This approach walk, though steep at first, is none too arduous, and is just one section of a longer crossing to Grindelwald. Since much of the valley is hemmed in by steep mountains and forest, it’s preferable to choose a bright day to tackle this outing, otherwise it can seem unnecessarily gloomy.
Leaving Meiringen take the main valley road out of town and across the Aare river to enter the neighbouring village of Willigen. About 50m beyond Hotel Tourist turn right along a narrow road between a house and a barn. When the road ends take a grass path rising steeply ahead. This brings you onto another minor road which you follow briefly before cutting away again on the continuing path. Several times this path leapfrogs the road, but is waymarked with precision so there is little chance of missing it. It leads over pastures and soon reaches the hamlet of Schwendi (792m; 40mins). Accommodation may be had here at Hotel Schwendi (Tel 033 971 28 25).
Continue along the road for a short distance until a footpath cuts off to the right, enters forest and becomes a paved mule-track that brings you to Gasthaus Zwirgi (Tel 033 971 14 22), located near the Reichenbach Falls. A signpost here suggests it will take 45mins to reach Kalterbrunnen. The path leaves the road on the left and takes you through more forest and meadow before rejoining the road near Berggasthof Kaltenbrunnen (1210m) about 1¾hrs from Meiringen (beds & dorm accommodation Tel 033 971 19 08).
By now the gradient has eased with the valley stretching ahead, steep-walled and forested. Keep to the road until it makes a left-hand hairpin, where you keep ahead on a footpath alongside the stream all the way to Rosenlaui. As you approach Gschwantenmad – a group of old barns and farmhouses at 1304m (2¼hrs) – the valley opens to reveal the Engelhörner peaks above to the left, the broken snout of the Rosenlaui Glacier, and the Wetterhorn at the head of the valley. Remain left of the stream, and in another 15mins or so you will arrive at Rosenlaui, with the massive Victorian Hotel Rosenlaui (beds & dorm places Tel 033 971 29 12 www.rosenlaui.ch).
While visiting Rosenlaui a recommended side-trip goes to the Gletscherschlucht (entry fee), a narrow glacier-carved gorge with spectacular cascades just a few minutes’ walk from the hotel.