The Petersgrat is a remnant of a great ice-sheet that once covered much of the Bernese Alps
| Start | Kandersteg (Selden: 1550m) |
| Distance | 10km |
| Height gain | 1576m |
| Height loss | 1338m |
| Grade | 3 |
| Time | 2 days |
| Location | Southeast of Kandersteg |
This is one of the classic walks of the Alps. Despite journeying the length of a glacier and making the traverse of a high snow- and ice-capped ridge, it is a walk and not a climb. But it’s a tough one that requires a degree of competence and glacier experience. No-one should consider tackling it without the provision of ice-axe, crampons and rope, and understand their correct usage. Given these provisos, this route could be a highlight of any mountain walker’s holiday.
The Petersgrat is a remnant of a vast ice cap that once covered much of the Bernese Alps. Today it divides the Gasterntal from the Lötschental – the latter valley, although included in the Bernese Alps, in fact falls within the jurisdiction of canton Valais. To gain the Petersgrat requires the ascent of the Kanderfirn, while its descent to the Lötschental on the southern side initially involves a steeply-angled ice slope, then an extremely steep and wild glen which eventually gives out to the open splendour of the Lötschental. At all stages of the walk the scenery is glorious. A night is spent in the Mutthorn Hut which gives an opportunity to capture the magic of both evening and early morning in the high mountains.
Take the minibus taxi from Kandersteg station as far as Selden in the Gasterntal, then follow directions given under Route 72 as far as the glacier. The path continues alongside the glacier, and when it ends you climb a series of grit-strewn rock terraces onto the icefield. The Kanderfirn rises at a very gentle gradient and should present no major crevasse difficulties. Head straight up the glacier, keeping to the right-hand side. Above to the right a higher level of glacier holds modest ice cliffs; to the left the bare cliffs of the Blüemlisalp massif are adorned with only small glacial remnants.
On reaching the head of the glacier the low crags of the flat-topped Mutthorn stand to the right of the Tschingelpass, with a second glacial saddle between the Mutthorn and Tschingelhorn. The hut is located just over this saddle, tucked against the eastern (right-hand) base of the Mutthorn’s low cliffs. So reach the Mutthorn Hut, about 2½hrs from the edge of the Kanderfirn (4½hrs from Selden).
The Mutthorn Hut sits amid an icy world, dominated by the double-peaked Tschingelhorn which looks impressive and aloof, and glows in the evening light. With 100 dormitory places and a resident guardian from late June to end of September, meals are provided. To reserve a place Tel 033 853 13 44.
The Petersgrat is a remnant of a great ice-sheet that once covered much of the Bernese Alps
On leaving the hut in the morning head almost due south towards the Petersgrat, aiming for the right-hand end of the Tschingelhorn’s southwest ridge, where the ice folds easily little more than 200m above the height of the hut. There are a few crevasses, but they should be detected without problem, and once on the Petersgrat you’ll find the view is magical as you look directly across the unseen Lötschental to the Bietschhorn, while on the far side of the Rhône Valley almost the complete length of the Pennine Alps is on show, from the Dom to Mont Blanc – but without Monte Rosa or the Matterhorn, both of which are hidden by other peaks.
Below the Petersgrat the head of two valleys offer themselves for possible descent. To the left is the Inners Tal, but almost directly below is the Uisters Tal (also known as the Äusseres Faflertal). This second glen is the one to choose. Descend the steep snow and ice slope towards the left-hand side of the head of the glen, and leave the ice in favour of rocks when you can safely do so. Cairns will be seen leading down from the upper glacial slabs. They lead over modest rock bands, down slopes of scree and old snow tongues until at last you reach a proper path well to the left of the stream flowing into the glen. This path is very steep in its initial stages, but eases lower down. As you progress towards the main Lötschental, views ahead become increasingly impressive.
Once you reach the mouth of the Uisters Tal bear left on a crossing path and follow this down to Fafleralp (accommodation, refreshments) from where you can catch a postbus downvalley to Goppenstein, and from there take a train through the Lötschberg Tunnel back to Kandersteg.