| Start | Kandersteg (1176m) |
| Distance | 15km (one way) |
| Height gain | 1138m (378m with cablecar) |
| Grade | 2 |
| Time | 5–5½hrs (2–2½hrs with cablecar) |
| Location | Southwest of Kandersteg |
The Gemmi is an ancient crossing between the cantons of Bern and Valais, and over the centuries it has been traversed by countless thousands of farmers, traders, pilgrims and tourists. In the early 18th century a remarkable staircase of a path was created up the almost perpendicular wall from Leukerbad to the pass; a route that was tackled by mule as well as by men, though accidents were not unknown, as may be guessed by anyone who studies the route today. Nowadays there’s cableway access from Leukerbad to the pass, while the route from Kandersteg is similarly eased by mechanical means. Yet despite this taming of the Gemmi and the approach to it, nothing can detract from the sheer splendour of the panorama that greets those who arrive there. From the pass one gazes south to the great chain of the Pennine Alps including Monte Rosa, the Mischabelhörner, Matterhorn, Dent Blanche, Weisshorn and Bouquetins and many, many more. A fabulous view it is, and one that gives a considerable lift to this walk. The valley that leads to the pass from the upper station of the Eggeschwand–Sunnbüel cablecar is a noted flower garden, spoilt only by high tension power lines and their pylons. Mountains and glaciers wall it, and shortly before reaching the Gemmi you pass alongside the grey limestone-bordered Daubensee. The Wildstrubel rises to the west, Altels and Balmhorn to the east.
Leaving Kandersteg wander upvalley as far as Eggeschwand where the cablecar swings up to Sunnbüel. There are two footpath routes for those who prefer to walk all the way; both entail very steep sections as outlined below.
Option 1: Continue along the road beyond the cablecar station until it makes a hairpin bend to the left to enter the Gasterntal. The footpath to Sunnbüel begins at this bend and works its way among trees and shrubbery, climbing very steeply and in 3hrs from Kandersteg arrives at the upper cablecar station.
Option 2: From the car park by the Eggeschwand–Sunnbüel cableway station walk through the Klus gorge into the Gasterntal as far as Hotel Waldhaus (see Route 76 for details). At the Waldhaus take the path heading off to the right. It takes you up the left-hand side of a narrow cleft on a series of tight zig-zags, the path made safe in places by fixed cable. It works its way ever higher among woods and emerges at last in the upper valley of the Schwarzbach just south of the Sunnbüel cablecar station and restaurant. Continue upvalley along a broad clear path.
For those who choose to ride the cablecar, the way from the upper station is straightforward and signed. Continue upvalley on a well-trodden track. At the alp pasture of Spittelmatte (1875m; 15mins) you cross an area devastated in September 1895 by the collapse of part of the western glacier draped down the Altels (seen above to the left) which killed six herdsmen and their cattle. Beyond this the way crosses a stony region and comes to Berghotel Schwarenbach (2060m accommodation, refreshments), about 4hrs from Kandersteg (a little over 1hr from Sunnbüel). Between Spittelmatte and Schwarenbach you cross the cantonal boundary from Bern to the Valais.
Leaving Schwarenbach you steadily gain height over rocky ground, come to the shallow Daubensee, sometimes semi-frozen in early summer, skirt along its eastern (left-hand) shore, and then rise beyond it for about 10mins to reach Hotel Wildstrubel (accommodation, refreshments) and the Gemmipass with its magnificent views and abundance of wild flowers in the early summer.
Allow 4hrs to return to Kandersteg by the same route. Should your plan be to continue as far as Leukerbad, however, the way is obvious, if rather dizzy with its staggering number of zig-zags. The descent will take about 1¾–2hrs from the pass. Or, alternatively, you could take the cableway.