Chilies—hot or mild, sweet or smoked—are an important ingredient in many cuisines in the world and are very important in Latin cooking. Take time to learn about them and experiment with them to add unique flavors to your cooking. The words “chili” and “pepper” are often used interchangeably. Hot peppers can be called “chilies,” “peppers,” or “chili peppers,” whereas mild peppers—bell peppers, for example—are typically just called “peppers.” If in doubt, just call it a pepper!
The jalapeño is a fresh chili, green or dark green in color, elongated and conical in shape. It averages 2½ inches long by 1¼ inches wide. It is the most popular and recognizable fresh chili in the United States. When the jalapeño matures, it acquires an intense red color. Jalapeños are hot! To reduce their intensity, jalapeños should be deveined, seeded carefully, and washed. Wear gloves when deveining them. The jalapeño is used in such salsas as Classic Pico de Gallo (page 30). Dried, smoked jalapeños are called chipotle chilies. On a heat scale of 1 to 10, the jalapeño rates a 5 or 6 if not deveined.
The chipotle chili is a dried, smoked jalapeño. It is dark reddish brown in color and has a wrinkled texture. On average, the chipotle is 2½ inches long by 1 inch wide. It is one of the hottest dried chilies. In addition to being sold dried, chipotle chilies are commonly sold canned or jarred in a marinade, sauce, or brine, such as in adobo sauce. Chipotles are among the most widely used dried chilies and are considered a must for Mexican cooking. Because they lend a special smoky flavor to soups, rubs, and sauces, they are perfect for barbecue meats, fish, or poultry. On a heat scale of 1 to 10, chipotles rate 6 or 7.
The Anaheim chili is the most common mild green chili available in the United States. It is an elongated, large chili. It can grow to 6 to 10 inches in length and between 1½ and 2 inches wide. The Anaheim is commonly eaten when green, but turns from green to orange when mature. The Anaheim chili can sometimes be hot, though not as hot as the jalapeño. It can be used for chiles rellenos and also in salsas. Dried red Anaheim chilies are used to make ristras (Mexican hanging ornaments). On a heat scale of 1 to 10, the Anaheim chili rates 2 to 3.
The poblano chili is a large, meaty pepper. It is conical in shape with some undulations. It may resemble a green bell pepper, but it is darker and pointed at the end. It is generally a dark, shiny green, although some varieties may be lighter in color. This chili is relatively mild but may still be too hot for some people. This chili tastes better cooked and should be roasted and peeled before using. The poblano chili is the main ingredient of chiles rellenos. It’s also delicious cooked with sour cream and served with chicken or fish. On a heat scale of 1 to 10, the poblano chili rates 3 to 4.
The ancho chili is a poblano chili that has been dried. In Spanish, ancho means wide. It is a triangular-shaped, reddish-brown dry chili with a rough, shiny texture. On average, the ancho chili is about 4½ inches long by 2½ inches wide. It should be flexible and never stiff. When soaked, it acquires a brick-like color. It is the sweetest of the dried chilies. It has a mild fruit flavor, a bit similar to coffee or licorice. It is used to prepare mole sauce, a traditional sauce made with chocolate. On a heat scale of 1 to 10, the ancho chili rates 3 to 4.
The serrano chili is a small, slim, cylindrical, bullet-shaped chili. On average, it measures 1½ inches wide by ½ inches long. The serrano changes from medium green to orangeish-red when mature. It can be purchased fresh, but it can also be found canned in serranos en escabeche, a relish of vinegar, onion, carrot, and herbs. Serrano chilies have a distinct fresh citric flavor, great for salsas and guacamole. They do not need to be peeled, but they can be grilled until slightly charred and softened. Serrano chilies are very hot—sometimes up to five times hotter than jalapeños. On a heat scale from 1 to 10, the serrano chili rates 7 to 8.
The word árbol means “tree” in Spanish, and the árbol chili is sometimes called a “tree chili.” The árbol chili is a long, thin, green chili that turns a shiny orange-red when mature. It is very hot and is similar to the serrano in taste. On average, it is 2½ inches long by ½ inch wide. It is most commonly used for hot sauces. It can also be toasted until crisp, ground to a powder, and used as a condiment on sliced fruit or vegetables, such as cucumbers or jicama. If the recipe calls for an árbol chili or tree chili and does not specify whether to use fresh or dried, always use a dried chili. Árbol chilies are the small dried red chilies used to decorate holiday wreaths in New Mexico. On a heat scale from 1 to 10, the árbol rates 7 to 8.
The habanero is one of the hottest chilies. Habanero is pronounced with a silent h. Not easily mistaken for other chili peppers, the habanero has a distinctive paper lantern-like shape and orange color. Be careful not to confuse it with the small sweet orange pepper. It is 1 to 2 inches long by 1 to 1½ inches wide. Unripe habaneros are green, and they change color as they mature. Common colors are red and orange, but other colors are sometimes seen. Be extremely careful when handling habaneros, and always use gloves—they are extremely hot. A little bit goes a long way. For instance, if you want to add some kick to a pot of soup, all you have to do is soak one habanero in the soup for a couple of minutes and immediately remove it! On a heat scale of 1 to 10, the habanero chili rates 10!
The Peruvian yellow ají pepper (ají amarillo) is the king of Peruvian hot chilies. Shaped like the Anaheim chili but yellow with orange tinges, it has a slightly sweet flavor like a yellow bell pepper but is very hot. If the seeds and veins are removed, the degree of heat is tolerable. The ají amarillo adds a very special flavor to traditional dishes, whether used as a seasoning or as a condiment. The traditional Peruvian ají amarillo can sometimes be found jarred in markets that carry Hispanic products. On a heat scale from 1 to 10, the ají amarillo rates 5 to 6, if not deveined and seeded.
Roasting fresh chilies softens them, makes it easy to remove the outer skin, and gives them a delicious smoky flavor. Make sure they do not burn completely, or they will be bitter and difficult to work with. Chilies can be roasted over a direct flame, such as a gas burner or grill, or they can be roasted using a “comal” or skillet. A comal is a metal hotplate that is widely used for this purpose in Mexico. Be sure to wear gloves when handling the chilies. Roasted chilies can be used in many different ways, such as in Vegetarian Tamales (page 133), Fettuccine with Poblano Sauce (page 118), and Chilies with Shrimp and Spinach Stuffing (page 114).
1 Place the chilies in a skillet, on a metal hotplate or griddle, on a grill over medium heat, or over a gas burner. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them to roast on all sides until the peels are brown and blistered.
2 Place chilies in a closed paper or plastic bag for 10 minutes to loosen the skins. Remove the chilies and peel the blistered skins. Wipe off any leftover skin with a damp cloth. Do not rinse the chilies.
3 Cut a slit on one side and remove the seeds carefully to avoid tearing the chilies. If you will be stuffing the chilies, leave the stems on. If you will be using strips of roasted chili, remove the stems, seeds, and membranes.
4 Carefully place the chilies on paper towels and let them dry until ready to use. If stuffing, squeeze lime juice inside the chilies when ready to use.