DRIED PASTA
This is the chapter to which I’ve dedicated the most recipes. Dried pasta is just so versatile, quick and easy to cook and can be made in a different way every day. Like all Italians, I always keep a good selection in my storecupboard – at least a couple of varieties of pasta lunga (long pasta) such as spaghetti, linguine and tagliatelle; pasta corta (short pasta) such as penne, farfalle and rigatoni; as well as tiny shapes for soups. Along with some storecupboard essentials and fresh produce, I know I can rustle up a satisfying meal in no time.
There is such a huge variety of dried pasta shapes on the market these days. In Italy, you really are spoilt for choice, with over 650 different types to choose from! Even the ubiquitous spaghetti comes in many varieties, from thin spaghettini to thicker spaghettoni. I love to discover new shapes and imagine how I will cook them.
Cooking times for dried pasta vary greatly, depending on size, shape and brand. This is why I haven’t put cooking times in any of the recipes in this chapter and suggest you check the cooking directions on your packet. I like my pasta to be very al dente, so I always reduce the cooking times stated and do several taste tests along the way.
I find the quality Italian pasta brands, which take a little longer to cook, are really worth paying a little bit extra for. The producers use good-quality durum wheat flour and adhere to strict rules and regulations on the making and drying of the pasta. Look out for pasta that has been ‘bronze-cut’, meaning the shapes have been cut with traditional bronze moulds; this makes the pasta shapes coarser, giving them the classic rough texture that sauces can better cling to, which in turn ensures you enjoy every mouthful. Where possible, go for the better quality Italian brands – it really will make a huge difference to your final dish.
SALSA DI POMODORO E VERDURINE
TOMATO AND VEGETABLE SAUCE
This pasta sauce has been a favourite in my household since our girls were very young. For babies or fussy eaters, you can also blend the sauce so little ones won’t notice the veggies! It’s worth making lots and freezing in batches, so you always have a quick meal to hand. Serve with cooked penne, spaghetti or other pasta shapes, sprinkled with some grated Parmesan, and there you have a quick, delicious meal in no time.
Serves 4–6
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
½ onion, finely chopped
½ celery stalk, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
½ courgette (zucchini), finely chopped
2 x 400-g/14-oz cans of chopped plum tomatoes
1 store-bought vegetable stock pot (bouillon gel cube) or cube
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the finely chopped vegetables and sweat for 3–4 minutes, until softened. Stir in the chopped tomatoes, along with about half a tomato can of water, and the stock pot/cube. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat, cover and cook for 25 minutes. Check for seasoning and add a little salt and pepper if desired.
SALSA AL POMODORO
BASIC TOMATO SAUCE
This is the most basic Italian sauce and the most widely used to flavour pasta dishes. It’s handy to make a large quantity and freeze it in batches for use at other times.
Makes about 680 g/1 lb 8 oz/3 cups
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 x 400-g/14-oz cans of chopped tomatoes
½ handful of basil leaves
sea salt
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the onion and cook for 2–3 minutes, until softened. Add the chopped tomatoes, along with about half a tomato can of water. Season with salt, then stir in the basil leaves, cover and simmer gently for about 20 minutes.
Use according to your recipe. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or freeze on the day of making.
SALSA DI POMODORI AL FORNO
OVEN-ROASTED TOMATO SAUCE
This quick and simple oven-roasted sauce is a delicious way of cooking tomatoes to obtain maximum flavour. Serve with freshly cooked pasta.
Serves 4
700 g/1 lb 9 oz cherry or baby plum tomatoes
4 garlic cloves, left whole and squashed slightly
1 bunch of basil, leaves torn
6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt
Preheat the oven to 200°C fan/220°C/425°F/gas mark 7.
Place all the ingredients into a roasting pan with a generous pinch of salt and mix well.
Roast in the oven for 15–20 minutes, until the tomatoes are golden and soft.
Serve with some freshly cooked spaghetti or your favourite pasta shape and sprinkle with some grated Parmesan, if desired.
RAGU BOLOGNESE
BOLOGNESE RAGÙ
There are so many versions of this popular pasta sauce, which is used to make the traditional lasagne Emiliane. Outside Italy, it can often be made quite badly. Traditional Bolognese ragù does not require canned tomatoes – this recipe gives you a rich, intense flavour using just a little tomato purée and stock. The original recipe, hailing from the gastronomic town of Bologna, used a whole cut of meat that would be hand-cut into tiny pieces, however, ready-prepared minced meat is what is used today, and the combination of both beef and pork gives the dish more flavour. Tagliatelle is the preferred pasta shape for serving with this thick meat sauce.
Serves 4
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped w
200 g/7 oz minced (ground) beef
200 g/7 oz minced (ground) pork
175 ml/6 fl oz/¾ cup red wine
2 tbsp tomato purée (paste)
250 ml/8½ fl oz/generous 1 cup beef or vegetable stock (bouillon)
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the onion, celery and carrot, and sweat for 7–10 minutes, until the onion has softened. Add the beef and pork, and sauté until well browned. Increase the heat, add the wine and allow to evaporate. Dilute the tomato purée in a little of the stock and stir it into the pan until well incorporated. Pour in the remaining stock and cover the pan with a lid.
Reduce the heat to low and cook for 2 hours, checking from time to time. If necessary, add a little hot water to prevent the sauce from drying out. Use according to your recipe.
PESTO GENOVESE
BASIL PESTO
Basil pesto originated in Liguria, where sweet basil grows in abundance and the gentle, light olive oil is perfect for the sauce. Although there are many ready-made varieties available to buy, basil pesto is really quick and simple to make at home. It’s worth making plenty, so that you can keep it in the fridge or freezer to whip up a quick pasta dish whenever you like. Trofie, a small thin twisty shape from the same region, is the ideal pasta for this sauce but you can serve with other pasta shapes such as spaghetti, linguine, farfalle and fusilli.
There are two methods you can use to make pesto: using a traditional pestle and mortar, or a food processor or blender. It’s really up to you; both methods are quick, but the pestle and mortar gives a nice crunchy texture to the pesto.
Serves 4–6
1 garlic clove, peeled
50 g/1¾ oz basil leaves
2 tbsp pine nuts
50 g/1¾ oz/⅔ cup grated Parmesan
30 g/1 oz/scant ½ cup grated Pecorino
5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt
With a pestle and mortar: Pound the garlic to a paste with a pinch of sea salt. Add the basil leaves and continue to pound, adding the pine nuts and cheeses as you go. Continue pounding the mixture until you get a coarse paste, then gradually drizzle in the olive oil until well combined.
With a food processor or blender: Pulse the garlic and a pinch of salt together to a paste. Add the basil leaves and pulse briefly, then add the pine nuts and cheeses. Continue to pulse to a paste, but don’t overdo it – the heat from the machine may spoil the pesto, making it bitter. Gradually add the olive oil, pulsing as you go, until well combined.
Toss the pesto through freshly cooked trofie or other pasta shapes. Alternatively, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to a week. You can also freeze pesto – a tip is to place it in an ice-cube tray and defrost only what you need.
BECHAMEL
WHITE SAUCE
This is such a versatile sauce, which is commonly used in lasagne and other baked pasta dishes, such as mac ‘n’ cheese. It can be kept in the refrigerator for about three days, or it can be frozen. Once defrosted, gently reheat in a saucepan, stirring with a wooden spoon to avoid it burning on the bottom, until it is heated through and returns to its original glossy appearance.
Serves 4–6
40 g/1½ oz/3 tbsp unsalted butter
40 g/1½ oz/generous ¼ cup plain (all-purpose) flour
500 ml/17 fl oz/generous 2 cups milk
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg (optional)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a small saucepan, melt the butter over a medium heat. Remove from the heat and, using a small whisk, quickly beat in the flour (to avoid lumps), then gradually add the milk, whisking all the time. Return to the heat and cook for about 3–4 minutes, whisking continuously, until the sauce begins to thicken slightly.
Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt and pepper and nutmeg, if desired.
BURRO E SALVIA
SIMPLE BUTTER AND SAGE SAUCE
This quick and easy classic condiment is typically used for meat-filled ravioli, however you could use it simply for dressing some cooked spaghetti or other favourite pasta shape. The traditional recipe uses just butter and sage, but I like to add a little vegetable stock (bouillon) for extra creaminess. If you don’t like the pungent taste of sage, especially if cooking for kids, just omit the sage leaves.
Serves 4
100 g/3½ oz/7 tbsp unsalted butter
8 sage leaves
6 tbsp vegetable stock (bouillon)
40 g/1½ oz/generous ½ cup grated Parmesan
Heat the butter and sage leaves together in a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, then add the stock and Parmesan and stir to combine.
Add pasta to the sauce, coating well, and continue to cook according to your recipe. If using filled pasta, such as ravioli, be careful not to break them. Serve immediately.
BUCATINI CON LE SARDE E FINOCCHIETTO
BUCATINI WITH FRESH SARDINES AND WILD FENNEL
The secret of this classic Sicilian dish is in the flavour of the fennel. Pungent wild fennel is best for this – you can obtain it from good greengrocers or forage for it yourself (it grows wild throughout the Mediterranean, UK and US). The crunchy breadcrumb topping is a typical ‘poor man’s’ substitute for grated Parmesan, and combines perfectly with this pasta dish.
Serves 4
1 large handful of wild fennel or the fronds of 2 fennel bulbs
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 sachet of saffron powder (about 0.08g)
40 g/1½ oz/¼ cup pine nuts
40 g/1½ oz/⅓ cup sultanas (golden raisins), soaked in a little warm water
5 anchovy fillets
150 g/5½ oz fresh sardines, cleaned, heads and innards removed, chopped into chunks (alternatively use tinned sardines in olive oil)
300 g/10½ oz bucatini pasta
sea salt
For the topping:
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, left whole
40 g/1½ oz/¾ cup breadcrumbs
Put the wild fennel or fennel fronds in a large saucepan of water and bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and set aside to let the fennel infuse the water. This water will be used to cook the pasta.
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the onion and sweat for about 5 minutes until softened. Stir in the saffron, pine nuts, drained sultanas and anchovy fillets, and cook on a low–medium heat until the anchovy fillets have melted. Add the sardine chunks, increase the heat and stir-fry for 2 minutes, adding a little of the fennel-infused water.
Remove the fennel from the water, cool slightly and finely chop. Set aside.
Add a little salt to the fennel-infused water, bring to the boil and cook the bucatini pasta until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Meanwhile, make the topping: heat the olive oil in a small pan over a medium heat, add the garlic clove and sweat for 1 minute, then add the breadcrumbs. Cook, stirring all the time, until the oil has been absorbed and the breadcrumbs are golden. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Add the pasta and reserved cooking water to the sauce in the pan, then add the chopped fennel and mix together over a high heat until well combined. Serve immediately with the breadcrumb topping sprinkled over.
BIRBONI ATTERRATI
WHOLEMEAL TAGLIATELLE WITH ANCHOVIES AND WALNUTS
Birboni is an ancient pasta of the Amalfi Coast, the origins of which lie in the housewife’s kitchen. Whenever fresh pasta was made, in order not to waste a thing, all the flour that did not end up in the pasta dough would be collected (even swept up from the floor!) and reused to make into more pasta! It became so popular that factories started to make this wholemeal (whole wheat) variety of tagliatelle, sold as ‘birboni’. Obviously, it is now made with clean flour!
Birboni are usually combined with a few simple, local ingredients: anchovies and Colatura di Alici, a concentrated anchovy sauce that comes from the coastal village of Cetara. The sauce is available in Italian delis, however you can easily subsitute with a couple of anchovy fillets instead. Birboni are only obtainable in the local area, so I have substituted wholemeal (whole wheat) tagliatelle here, though white-flour tagliatelle will also work fine.
Serves 4
300 g/10½ oz wholemeal (whole wheat) tagliatelle (or regular tagliatelle)
6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
½ red chilli, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, left whole
10 anchovy fillets
60 g/2¼ oz/½ cup very finely chopped walnuts
a handful of parsley, finely chopped
1 tbsp Colatura di Alici (anchovy sauce)
sea salt
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan or frying pan (skillet) set over a medium heat. Add the chilli and garlic, and sweat for 1 minute, then add the anchovy fillets and continue to cook until the anchovies have melted. Stir in the chopped walnuts, half of the parsley, and a couple of tablespoons of the pasta cooking water. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is cooked. Remove and discard the garlic cloves.
Drain the tagliatelle, add to the sauce along with the Colatura di Alici and mix well to combine. Remove from the heat and serve with the remaining parsley sprinkled over.
FARFALLE CON CARCIOFI E PANCETTA CROCCANTE
FARFALLE WITH ARTICHOKES AND CRISPY PANCETTA
This quick and simple recipe uses tender artichoke hearts, which take no time to cook. In Italy, where artichokes are very popular, the hearts can be found in markets, ready-peeled and placed in buckets of acidulated water to avoid them turning black. The trend hasn’t caught on elsewhere, but it really isn’t difficult to prepare artichokes – once you’ve mastered the first one, it’s child’s play! For this recipe, choose the small purple variety, which are in season throughout spring from around February onwards.
Serves 4
320 g/11½ oz farfalle pasta
8 small artichokes (or preserved artichokes, drained well)
juice of 2 small lemons
6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
8 slices pancetta, finely sliced (or bacon, diced)
2 banana shallots, finely chopped
6 tbsp white wine
handful of parsley, chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated Pecorino (or Parmesan), to serve
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Meanwhile, clean the artichokes by removing all the leaves until you get to the heart, slice in half and, with the help of a teaspoon, remove the hairy choke. Slice the hearts inely and place in a bowl of water acidulated with the lemon juice until you are ready to use.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan (skillet), add the pancetta and sauté over a medium–high heat for about 2–3 minutes until crispy. Add the shallots and sweat for 1 minute. Drain the artichokes, add to the pan, and stir-fry for about 2 minutes until softened but not mushy. Pour in the white wine and allow to evaporate, then season with salt and pepper.
Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the sauce in the pan with a little of the reserved cooking water and mix well to combine. Stir in the chopped parsley. Remove from the heat, drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil and serve with grated Pecorino.
RIGATONI ALLA ZOZZANA
RIGATONI WITH PANCETTA AND SAUSAGE
This robust Roman recipe takes its name from zozza, which in Roman dialect usually means ‘dirty’, but in the case of this recipe means ‘rich’, because all sorts of ingredients are added. It’s a cross between the other classic Roman pasta dishes cacio e pepe and carbonara, and uses up all the typical leftovers, making it a substantial but extremely delicious dish.
Serves 4
300 g/10½ oz rigatoni (or penne) pasta
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
100 g/3½ oz pancetta (or bacon), finely chopped)
100 g/3½ oz Italian pork sausage, skinned and crumbled (or any pork sausage)
1 egg yolk
30 g/1 oz/scant ½ cup grated Pecorino (or Parmesan), plus extra for sprinkling
2 tbsp single (light) cream
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan (skillet) set over a medium heat, add the onion and sweat for 1 minute. Add the pancetta and sausage meat, and sauté for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, whisk together the egg yolk, grated Pecorino and cream, along with some salt and pepper, in a small bowl.
Drain the cooked pasta, add to the pan with the pancetta and sausage meat, mix well and cook for 1 minute over a high heat. Remove from the heat and mix in the creamy mixture. Serve immediately, with an extra sprinkling of black pepper and Pecorino.
FUSILLI CON CAVOLO NERO E SALSICCIA
FUSILLI WITH SAUSAGE AND CAVOLO NERO
This is a nutritious dish traditionally enjoyed during the winter months when cavolo nero is in abundance. If you cannot get hold of cavolo nero, substitute with savoy, sweetheart cabbage or spinach. If using spinach, there is no need to boil first, simply add to the pan. For maximum flavour, use good-quality Italian pork sausages such as luganica (easily obtainable from Italian delis), however, any pork sausage will work. Quick and simple to prepare, it’s a great way of combining winter favourites for a comforting midweek supper.
Serves 4
400 g/14 oz cavolo nero, roughly chopped
6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
2 garlic cloves, left whole and squashed
1 red chilli, finely chopped (optional)
4 Italian pork sausages, skinnned and roughly chopped (or any pork sausage)
320 g/11½ oz fusilli bucati pasta (alternatively use fusilli, penne or farfalle)
sea salt
grated Parmesan, to serve
Bring a large saucepan of slightly salted water to the boil and cook the cavolo nero for about 10 minutes until softened. Drain, reserving the cooking water, and set aside.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat. Add the garlic and chilli, and sweat for 1 minute, then add the sausage meat and stir-fry for about 5 minutes. Add the cavolo nero to the pan and continue to cook on a medium–low heat while you cook the pasta.
Bring the cavolo nero cooking water back to the boil, adding more water if necessary, and cook the pasta until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Drain the cooked pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the cavolo nero and sausage with a little of the cooking water, and mix well to combine.
Serve with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and some grated Parmesan.
MEZZE MANICHE CON BROCCOLI, SPECK E MANDORLE
MEZZE MANICHE WITH BROCCOLI, SPECK AND ALMONDS
Pasta with broccoli is a very common dish in Italy and usually the type of broccoli used is cime di rape (rape tops). However, as this vegetable is not commonly found in the UK, regular or long-stemmed broccoli is perfect. For more flavour, I have added speck – a smoked air-dried ham – but this can be omitted for vegetarians or replaced with bacon. The addition of toasted almonds gives the dish a nice crunchy texture, however use any nuts in your storecupboard such as hazelnuts or walnuts will do. Mezze maniche means ‘short sleeves’, due to the short tubular shape of the pasta. If you can’t get this shape, then use conchiglie or penne.
Serves 4
400 g/14 oz broccoli florets
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
150 g/5½ oz Italian speck (smoked air-dried ham), finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 red chilli, finely chopped
sea salt
325 g/11½ oz mezze maniche pasta
40 g/1¾ oz/⅓ cup whole almonds, toasted and roughly chopped
30 g/1 oz/⅓ cup grated Parmesan
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the broccoli and cook for about 10 minutes until tender.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, add the speck and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and chilli, and continue to sauté for 1 minute or so.
Remove the broccoli florets from their cooking water with a slotted spoon, add them to the frying pan, increase the heat to high and sauté for about 3 minutes. Season with a little salt to taste.
Bring the broccoli cooking water back to the boil, add the mezze maniche and cook until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Drain the pasta, reserving a little cooking water. Add the pasta and reserved coooking water to the frying pan with the broccoli sauce and cook over a medium–high heat until well amalgamated.
Remove from the heat, mix in the toasted almonds and grated Parmesan, and serve immediately.
MAFALDINE CON RICOTTA
MAFALDINE WITH RICOTTA
Pasta with ricotta was always a quick and simple childhood favourite. Ricotta is low in calories, so it’s a healthy option too! Mafaldine pasta is a tagliatelle-type shape with a curly edge, which is ideal with this creamy ricotta sauce. If you can’t find mafaldine, you could substitute with farfalle, linguine or tagliatelle.
Serves 4
325 g/11½ oz mafaldine pasta
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
knob (pat) of butter
5 sage leaves
3 onions, very finely chopped
350 g/12 oz ricotta
40 g/1½ oz/generous ½ cup grated Pecorino or Parmesan
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the mafaldine until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil and butter in a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, add the sage leaves and onions, and sauté for about 7 minutes, stirring from time to time to avoid sticking or burning.
Stir in the ricotta with 4 tbsp of the pasta cooking water and mix together well until you obtain a creamy consistency. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Drain the pasta and add to the sauce with half of the grated Pecorino or Parmesan. Cook for about 1 minute, adding a little more of the pasta water if necessary.
Remove from the heat and serve immediately, sprinkled with the remaining grated cheese and some more freshly ground black pepper.
PENNETTE CON LENTICCHIE E FUNGHI
PENNETTE WITH LENTILS AND MUSHROOMS
Pasta with lentils is a very common dish throughout Italy and made in a variety of ways. It’s quick, easy and makes a nutritious meal at any time. This particular dish has the addition of mushrooms – I have opted for chestnut (cremini) mushrooms, but you could add whichever variety you prefer. For this recipe you can use any of the small brown or greenish varieties of lentil, which are widely available and that you don’t normally need to pre-soak, although always check your packet for cooking instructions.
Serves 4
200 g/7 oz/1¼ cups green or brown lentils
300 g/9½ oz pennette pasta (alternatively use regular penne)
4 tbsp extra-virgin oilve oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
160 g/5¾ oz chestnut (cremini) mushrooms, thinly sliced
200 g/7 oz/scant 1 cup passata (sieved tomatoes)
20 g/¾ oz/¼ cup grated Parmesan
sea salt
a little finely chopped parsley, to serve
Cook the lentils in boiling water until tender (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Meanwhile, bring another large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
At the same time, heat the olive oil in a frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, add the garlic cloves and sweat for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for 5 minutes, then add the passata and cook for 10 minutes. Drain the cooked lentils and add to the tomato sauce.
Drain the pasta, add to the sauce and mix to combine. Mix in the grated Parmesan, then remove from the heat and serve sprinkled with a little chopped parsley.
PENNE INTEGRALI CON BROCCOLI E PATATA DOLCE
WHOLEMEAL PENNE WITH BROCCOLI AND SWEET POTATO
Pasta with broccoli is a common dish in Italy, where it is usually flavoured with garlic and chilli. In this recipe, the broccoli is mashed in a blender and served with small chunks of delicious sweet potato, adding extra nutrients and colour to the dish. It makes a healthy combination, which goes really well with wholemeal (wholewheat) pasta. If you prefer, you can substitute the wholemeal penne with white-flour penne.
Cooking time: 20 minutes (not including prep)
Serves 4
320 g/11¼ oz wholemeal penne
400 g/14 oz broccoli florets
250 g/9 oz sweet potato, cut into cubes
sea salt, for the cooking water
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus an extra splash
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ fresh red chilli, finely chopped
60 g/2¼ oz/1 scant cup grated Parmesan, plus extra for sprinkling, if desired
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and add the pasta, broccoli and sweet potato. Cook until the broccoli is tender, 4–5 minutes. Remove the broccoli with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain in a colander. Continue to cook the pasta and sweet potato, until the pasta is al dente, 8–10 minutes (check the instructions on your packet).
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, add the garlic and chilli, and sweat for about 30 seconds. Add the drained broccoli and stir-fry for 1 minute or so.
Remove from the heat and transfer the broccoli mixture to a food processor. Add a further splash of olive oil and the grated Parmesan and blend until smooth. Return the mixture to the frying pan.
Drain the pasta and sweet potato, reserving some of the cooking water. Add to the broccoli mixture, mix well and heat through, together with a little of the reserved cooking water, if needed.
Serve with an extra sprinkling of Parmesan, if desired.
FUSILLI BUCATI CON PANNA, NOCI E BRICCIOLE CROCCANTI
FUSILLI BUCATI WITH WALNUTS, CREAM AND CRISPY CROUTONS
This creamy pasta dish goes really well with walnuts and celery. Do ensure you buy celery with lots of leaves and use the tender heart or the middle of the celery. In rural southern Italy, it was quite common to use breadcrumbs (from leftover bread) to top pasta dishes when cheese was unavailable, hence the idea of crispy croutons in this recipe. Quick and simple to prepare, this makes a deliciously different pasta dish.
Cooking time: 15 minutes (not including prep)
Serves 4
320 g/11¼ oz fusilli bucati pasta (alternatively use fusilli, spaghetti or linguine)
1 garlic clove, peeled
60 g/2¼ oz day-old bread, cut into small cubes
1 celery heart with leaves, stalks thinly sliced
90 g/3¼ oz/⅔ cup walnuts
3 tbsp milk
a pinch of nutmeg
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
100 ml/3½ fl oz/7 tbsp single (light) cream
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pasta for 10–12 minutes, until al dente (check the instructions on your packet).
Meanwhile, place the garlic, 30 g/1 oz of the bread cubes, celery leaves, walnuts, milk, nutmeg, and some salt and pepper, to taste, in a food processor and whiz until smooth. Add the cream last and mix together. If the sauce is a little thick, add a little reserved pasta water. Set aside.
In a large frying pan (skillet), heat the olive oil over a medium heat. Add the sliced celery stalks and the remaining bread cubes and stir-fry for a minute or so, until golden.
Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Add the creamy sauce to a large saucepan set over a low heat and warm through. Add the pasta and reserved cooking water to the sauce and stir to combine. Divide between the plates and top with the crispy croutons and celery.
TROFIE AL PESTO CON NOCI E POMODORO
TROFIE WITH PESTO, WALNUTS AND TOMATO
Classic Ligurian trofie al pesto is now a popular pasta dish all over Italy and further afield. I remember when I first discovered trofie (short, thin, twisted eggless pasta) on a trip to the region in the 1990s – they were then unheard of in this country. Trofie take a little longer to cook than most other pasta shapes, so it’s important to check the cooking instructions on your packet. I usually like to make my own pesto (see here), but ready-made pesto in jars can be found in most shops and is a storecupboard essential. Here, the addition of walnuts and tomatoes makes this quick and simple dish a very tasty and nutritious meal.
Cooking time: 15–20 minutes (depending on pasta cooking time)
Serves 4
320 g/11¼ oz trofie pasta (alternatively use spaghetti, linguine, farfalle, spirali or fusilli)
sea salt, for the cooking water
100 g/3½ oz Pesto Sauce (see p 50)
a splash of extra-virgin olive oil
40 g/1½ oz/5 tbsp walnut pieces
2 tomatoes (about 250 g/9 oz), deseeded and roughly chopped
a few basil leaves, for garnish
grated Parmesan, to serve
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the trofie and cook for 12–15 minutes, until al dente (check the instructions on your packet).
Meanwhile, prepare the other ingredients.
When the pasta is nearly ready, place the pesto in a large frying pan (skillet) with a splash of extra-virgin olive oil and gently heat through. Drain the trofie, reserving a little cooking water. Add the trofie and reserved cooking water to the pesto sauce and mix well. Stir in the walnuts and tomatoes, remove from the heat and serve, garnished with basil leaves and some grated Parmesan, if desired.
ZUPPA DI VERDURE E PASTINA
VEGETABLE AND PASTINA SOUP
This should be really be called ‘Olivia’s Soup’ as it’s my daughter Olivia’s favourite meal! It’s really simple and quick to prepare and makes a warming, soothing lunch or dinner. Small pasta shapes (pastina) can be little stars, butterflies, alphabet shapes or broken-up capelli d’angelo (very fine spaghetti) or even normal spaghetti.
Serves 4
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
½ onion, finely chopped
½ celery stalk, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
85 g/3 oz courgette (zucchini), finely chopped
800 ml/28 fl oz/3½ cups hot vegetable stock (bouillon)
85 g/3 oz pastina (small pasta shapes)
grated Parmesan, to serve (optional)
Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat, add the onion, celery, carrot and courgette, and sweat for 2–3 minutes until softened. Pour in the vegetable stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and gently simmer for 5 minutes. Add the pastina and cook until al dente (check the instructions on your packet for cooking time).
Divide between serving bowls and serve immediately with a sprinkling of grated Parmesan, if desired.
FRITTATA DI PASTA AVANZATA
LEFTOVER PASTA FRITTATA
This is a tasty way to make use of leftover pasta and any other ingredients you might want to use up, such as cheese, cured meats or grilled veggies. In the Italian kitchen, this has long been made to deal with pasta leftovers and I still do this today, even if the pasta is coated in sauce. I simply mix it up with a couple of eggs and fry it to make a quick, nutritious meal the next day
Serves 4
3 eggs
125 g/4½ oz/1½ cups grated Parmesan
85 g/3 oz/¾ stick butter, melted
10 basil leaves, roughly torn
10 baby plum tomatoes or 4 tbsp leftover tomato sauce
leftovers, such as pieces of ham, salami, other cheeses, grilled (broiled) vegetables (optional)
350 g/12 oz leftover cooked pasta
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl, beat the eggs, then stir in the grated Parmesan, melted butter, basil leaves, tomatoes or tomato sauce and any other leftovers you like. Season with a little salt and black pepper, then combine well with the leftover cooked pasta.
Heat the olive oil in a large ovenproof non-stick frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, pour in the mixture and cook as you would an omelette for 4–5 minutes, until the bottom is set firm. Carefully flip the frittata on to a large plate if you can, then slide it back into the pan to cook the other side for another 4–5 minutes. Alternatively, place under a hot grill (broiler) until golden.
Serve hot or cold.
FRESH PASTA
Well before dried pasta became a global industry, this Italian staple came to us in fresh form from the humble kitchens of nonnas and mammas all over Italy. Certain shapes are still made by hand today in town and villages. If you go to Bari in southern Italy, you can find old ladies making orecchiette and cavatelli in their own kitchens and selling them to passers-by. They really have quite incredible little businesses going and it is fascinating to see how pasta was originally made. It’s good fun – if you’re lucky, they may even invite you to have a go yourself!
Contrary to what most people think, fresh pasta is actually quick to make, does not need many ingredients and is extremely good value. It can be made with eggs or with water and, by using the appropriate flours, there are also some excellent gluten-free varieties. Fresh pasta takes less time to cook than dried pasta – anything from 1 minute for thin spaghetti shapes, to about 6 minutes for thicker shapes and filled pasta.
There are all sorts of regional varieties and each town, village and family have their own specialities. Egg pasta is more common in northern Italy; in areas such as Emilia Romagna it is made for their regional dishes of lasagne, tortellini and tagliatelle. Eggless pasta, with more bite to it, is more common in southern Italy, and you find varieties such as orecchiette in Puglia or ricci (a type of fusilli) from my home town of Minori. I have fond memories of my Aunt Antonietta who, not so long ago, was still making ricci at home when she was well into her nineties.
Of course, if you don’t have time to make your own fresh pasta, there are many available to buy. Check out your local Italian deli or supermarket – they now have so many varieties to choose from. And please bear in mind that, in most of the recipes in this chapter, the fresh pasta can be substituted with dried pasta.
TIPS FOR MAKING PERFECT FRESH PASTA
Always use good-quality Italian ‘00’ pasta flour; it’s finer than other flours and you will find it easier to work with when making the pasta dough. If you are adding semolina flour to your dough, try to get fine semolina flour, ideally the Italian durum wheat variety known as semola rimacinata di grano duro. I highly recommend you get both flours from your nearest Italian deli for the best Italian quality.
When making egg pasta, always use the best free-range organic eggs you can find, with rich yellow yolks.
Eggless pasta is made using just lukewarm water. If you find you need a little more liquid when mixing either type of dough, simply add a little lukewarm water.
Once the dough is made, wrap tightly in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and let it rest for at least 30 minutes in the refrigerator before using. Pasta dough should always be wrapped in clingfilm when you are not using it. Cover rolled-out pasta sheets and shapes with a damp dish towel to stop them drying out, unless you are using them immediately.
EQUIPMENT FOR MAKING FRESH PASTA
ROLLING PIN
Years ago, and certainly when my mum made pasta, she didn’t have the luxury of a pasta machine and instead relied on her trusty rolling pin. So, a rolling pin is always my number one piece of equipment and I still use one if I’m making just a small quantity of fresh pasta. You have to keep rolling and rolling until you get the desired thickness, but I think of it as a bit of a workout!
PASTA MACHINE
This really is a great investment and does cut out a lot of work. Set the machine up on a clean, sturdy work surface and clamp it securely. Click the machine through to its highest setting. Flatten a piece of dough with your hands, feed it between the rollers and crank the machine to roll it through. Reduce the thickness setting and feed the same piece of dough through again. Keep doing this, reducing the thickness settings as you go, and you will see how much thinner the dough becomes. Finish rolling through on setting no. 1 (unless your recipe specifies otherwise), which is usually the narrowest setting, for wafer-thin dough that is suitable for most fresh pasta shapes and for filled pasta. Your pasta machine will also have attachments for long shapes such as spaghetti, tagliatelle, linguine, or tagliolini. Although more expensive, you can also buy an electric machine that mixes the dough for you and comes with attachments for short-shaped pasta too, so you can make your own penne as well as spaghetti.
PASTA CUTTERS
You can buy a lovely variety of round and square pasta cutters in different sizes, but you can also use regular cookie cutters for making filled pasta. A wheel cutter is also nice to have, as it neatens up the rough edges, but you can use a sharp knife instead.
PASTRY BRUSH
Very handy when making filled pasta, to brush the edges of the dough with egg wash or water to help them stick together.
EGG PASTA DOUGH
Makes enough to serve 4
200 g/7 oz/generous 1½ cups Italian ‘00’ pasta flour, sifted
2 large (US extra-large) free-range organic eggs
Put the flour into a large mixing bowl or heap on a clean work surface. Make a well in the centre, add the eggs and mix well together to form a dough. Wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, or until required.
EGGLESS PASTA DOUGH
Makes enough to serve 4
200 g/7 oz/generous 1½ cups Italian ‘00’ pasta flour, sifted
75–100 ml/2½–3½ fl oz/5–7 tbsp lukewarm water
Use the same method as above, but substitute the eggs with lukewarm water, adding it gradually, as you may need less or a little more.
TONNARELLI CACIO E PEPE
TONNARELLI WITH PECORINO ROMANO AND BLACK PEPPER
Tonnarelli are like thick square-cut spaghetti, sometimes known as spaghetti alla chittara due to the traditional method of making this shape with a gadget resembling guitar strings. Cacio e Pepe is a popular Roman recipe using just two additional ingredients: pecorino cheese and black pepper. Try to get Pecorino Romano from your Italian deli for the strong, robust flavour this dish is famous for. Although this is a simple dish to make, you have to work quickly once the pasta starts cooking – the pasta water is used not only to loosen up the pasta to mix with the pepper, but also to melt the cheese, which is mixed separately and added to the pasta once it is off the heat to avoid it going lumpy. This is my version of this traditional recipe, however you can use more or less pepper and cheese according to taste. If you don’t want to make your own tonnarelli, you could use fresh or dried spaghetti.
Serves 4
325 g/11½ oz fresh (or dried)spaghetti or tonnarelli pasta
or
1 x quantity of Egg Pasta Dough (see here)
2 tbsp black peppercorns
160 g/5¾ oz Pecorino Romano, very finely grated, plus extra for sprinkling (alternatively use Parmesan)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
If making your own pasta, make the pasta dough as described here. Roll the pasta dough out to a thickness of about 3 mm (⅛ in) or to setting number 4 of your pasta machine. Feed the dough through the thick spaghetti attachment for your pasta machine. Cover the pasta with a damp dish towel and set aside while you make the sauce.
Heat a large dry frying pan (skillet) over a high heat and briefly toast the peppercorns. Transfer the peppercorns to a pestle and mortar and crush until fine. Put the crushed pepper back into the frying pan, but keep off the heat.
Put the Pecorino cheese into a bowl and set aside.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the tonnarelli pasta and cook for just under 2 minutes, until al dente. As the pasta begins to cook, scoop out a ladleful of the pasta water and add to the frying pan with the pepper, set over a medium heat.
Take another couple of ladlefuls of pasta water and add the bowl with the Pecorino, mixing well until you obtain a creamy mixture.
When the pasta is cooked, use a pair of tongs to transfer it to the frying pan. Increase the heat to high and cook for 1 minute.
Remove the frying pan from the heat, add the cheesy mixture to the pasta and mix until well combined. Serve immediately with a sprinkling of grated Pecorino and some more freshly ground black pepper.
LINGUINE CON TONNO E BRICIOLE
LINGUINE WITH TUNA AND A BREADCRUMB TOPPING
This is quick and easy to make with nutritious fresh tuna, however tinned tuna will also do nicely. The crunchy topping of toasted breadcrumbs and pine nuts adds texture to this light, healthy dish. Buy ready-made fresh linguine from your Italian deli or make your own; if using dried pasta, choose linguine or spaghetti.
Serves 4
400 g/14 oz fresh linguine pasta (store-bought or see Egg Pasta recipe here or Eggless Pasta recipe here)
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 banana shallots, finely chopped (or 1 medium-sized onion, diced)
500 g/1 lb 2 oz fresh tuna, cut into chunks (alternatively use tinned tuna)
grated zest of ½ lemon
100 ml/3½ fl oz/7 tbsp white wine
a handful of parsley, finely chopped
40 g/1½ oz/¾ cup wholemeal breadcrumbs, toasted
2 tbsp pine nuts, toasted (alternatively use hazelnuts or walnuts)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
If making your own pasta, make the pasta dough according to the instructions here. After rolling out to 5 mm (¼ in) on a pasta machine, run it through the linguine attachment.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the fresh pasta until al dente, about 1–2 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan (skillet), add the shallots and sauté over a medium heat until softened. Increase the heat, add the tuna chunks, season with salt and pepper and sauté until sealed on all sides. If using tinned tuna, add straight to the pan. Add the lemon zest and white wine, and allow to evaporate.
Drain the pasta and add to the pan, then stir in the parsley. Mix well together over a medium heat for 1 minute.
Remove from the heat and serve immediately, topped with toasted breadcrumbs and pine nuts.
TAGLIATELLE AL RAGU DI STINCO D’AGNELLO
TAGLIATELLE WITH LAMB SHANK RAGÙ
This makes a hearty, nutritious meal, which, if you prefer, can be served with dried tagliatelle. You could also use pork shank, beef brisket or other value cuts of meat suitable for slow-cooking
Serves 4
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 lamb shank (about 400 g/14 oz)
1 rosemary sprig
½ small onion, finely chopped
½ celery stalk, finely chopped
1 small carrot, finely chopped
1 tbsp tomato purée (paste) stirred into 2 tbsp red wine
2 x 400-g/14-oz cans of chopped plum tomatoes
400 g/14 oz fresh (or dried) tagliatelle pasta
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
grated Parmesan, to serve
Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over a medium heat, add the lamb shank and seal well all over, then remove and set aside. To the same pan, add the rosemary sprig and vegetables, and sweat for a couple of minutes, then return the lamb to the pan, and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the tomato purée mixture and the chopped tomatoes, along with half a tomato can of water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover and cook gently for 2½ hours.
Remove the lamb shank and take the meat off the bone, discarding the bone. Break the meat into small pieces and set aside.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the tagliatelle for 1–2 minutes or until al dente. Drain the pasta, then combine with the tomato ragù. Serve with the pieces of lamb and some freshly grated Parmesan.
MALTAGLIATI CON CANNELLINI E OLIVE
FRESH PASTA STRIPS WITH CANNELLINI BEANS AND OLIVES
I love cannellini beans, especially the dried beans that need to be soaked overnight. Once the beans are soaked, this dish is really easy to make, and the beans and prosciutto give a wonderful aroma as they cook together. The addition of fresh crunchy celery, olives and tomatoes makes this fresher and lighter than a typical pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans) dish. Delicious served next day and can also be enjoyed cold.
Serves 4
300g/10½ oz/1½ cups dried cannellini beans, soaked in water overnight
200g/7oz piece of prosciutto, cubed (or bacon)
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
20 green olives, finely chopped (optional)
2 tomatoes, deseeded and finely chopped
leaves from 2 sprigs of rosemary, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle
300g/10½ oz fresh pappardelle, roughly chopped into 10cm/4-inch long strips (alternatively use dried pappardelle or tagliatelle)
30g/1oz Parmesan, grated, plus extra, shaved, to serve
a small handful of basil leaves, torn if large
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Rinse the beans and put them in a large saucepan with the prosciutto; add 2 litres/3½ pints/2 quarts cold water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat, partially cover with a lid and cook on a very low heat for 1 hour, or until the beans are tender but not falling apart.
Combine the celery, olives, tomatoes, rosemary, garlic and olive oil and add to the beans. Increase the heat, bring to the boil and add the pasta, then reduce the heat to medium and cook for 2–3 minutes, until the pasta is al dente. Remove from the heat, stir in the Parmesan and basil, taste for seasoning and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Serve with black pepper, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a few Parmesan shavings.
PISAREI E FASO’
EGGLESS PASTA DUMPLINGS WITH BEANS
This ancient traditional peasant dish from Emilia Romagna is so delicious that, when I tested the recipe with my family, we realised we had finished the lot in no time! It is a popular adish in the Piacenza area, where you can find it in local trattorias as well as quality restaurants. The eggless fresh pasta and simple bean and tomato sauce makes it perfect for vegans It’s a perfect comfort dish, so nutritious and satisfying, you will want to make it again and again.
Serves 4
200 g/7 oz/generous 1½ cups Italian ‘00’ pasta flour, plus extra for dusting
pinch of sea salt
70 g/2½ oz/1⅓ cups breadcrumbs
140 ml/4½ fl oz/scant ⅔ cup warm water
For the bean and tomato sauce:
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 x 400-g/14-oz cans of borlotti beans, drained
500 ml/18 fl oz/generous 2 cups passata (sieved tomatoes)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl or on a clean work surface, combine the flour, salt and breadcrumbs, then gradually add warm water and mix to form a smooth dough. Wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave to rest for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a medium–low heat, add the onion and sweat until softened. Add the drained borlotti beans, mix well and cook for 1 minute. Add the passata and season with salt and pepper, mix well, cover with a lid and cook on a medium heat for 20 minutes.
Unwrap the dough, cut out a piece and roll out into a sausage shape on a lightly floured work surface (keep the remaining dough wrapped in clingfilm until required). Cut the dough into 1-cm (½-in) pieces, like little gnocchi, and press each piece with your finger to make a slight indentation. Continue until you have used up all the dough.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and add the pisarei. Cook until they rise to the top, then cook for a further 2 minutes. Drain with a slotted spoon and add to the sauce, mixing well to combine. Remove from the heat, allow to rest for a minute, then serve.
GNOCCHI DI PATATE
POTATO GNOCCHI
Rice flour is better than plain flour for rolling out gnocchi as it prevents the dough from sticking.
Serves 4–6
1kg/2lb 4oz floury potatoes such as King Edwards, roughly all same size, scrubbed
salt
1 egg
300g/10½oz/generous 2 cups plain (all-purpose) flour
rice flour, to dust
Put the unpeeled potatoes in a saucepan with lots of cold water, bring to the boil and cook for 15–20 minutes, or until they are tender but not falli
Place the mash in a large bowl, season with salt, stir in the egg, add the flour and work to a soft dough. Sprinkle the rice flour over a work surface and roll out the dough into long sausage shapes. Using a sharp knife, cut into 2cm/¾ inch lengths. Set aside.
Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil. Drop the gnocchi into the water in batches and simmer for a minute or so, until they rise to the top. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain well, then add to a sauce of your choice. Mix well and serve.
This basic gnocchi recipe can be served with a rich tomato sauce (see here) a bolognese ragu (see here) pesto (here) or sage and butter sauce (here). For an oven baked gnocchi, try mixing the bechamel sauce (here) with the cooked gnocchi in an ovenproof dish, sprinkle with grated parmesan and bake in the oven until golden and bubbly –Gnocchi n’ cheese!
GNOCCHI CON GORGONZOLA E PERA
GNOCCHI WITH GORGONZOLA AND PEAR
Classic gnocchi and Gorgonzola are the perfect combination. The addition of sweet ripe pears here really enhances the flavour, making this a delicious speedy meal. You can make your own fresh gnocchi (see here) or buy ready-made from most shops. I really like the small variety, sometimes known as ‘chicchi’.
Serves 4
3 tbsp butter
2 thyme sprigs, leaves only
1 ripe Conference pear, peeled and cut into small chunks
200 g/7 oz Gorgonzola cheese, roughly chopped (alternatively use Dolcelatte)
5 tbsp milk
a pinch of grated nutmeg, plus extra to serve
500 g/1 lb 2 oz pack of ready-made gnocchi
sea salt, to taste
Place a large saucepan of water on the heat to boil.
In a large frying pan (skillet), melt the butter over a medium heat, add the thyme leaves and pear chunks and stir-fry for about 30 seconds. Stir in the Gorgonzola cheese, add the milk and nutmeg, and stir well until the cheese melts. Turn the heat down to low.
When the water in the saucepan is boiling, drop in the gnocchi and cook for 1–2 minutes or so, until the gnocchi float to the top. At this point, use a slotted spoon to transfer the gnocchi into the creamy sauce and mix well to combine. Add a little salt to taste, remove from the heat, and serve immediately with a little extra grated nutmeg.
FILLED PASTA
Filled pasta, like pasta itself, is ancient in origin and there are many, often conflicting, theories on how the various recipes came about. Whatever the origins, we do know that filled pasta plays an important part in Italian gastronomy, especially in the northern and central regions where it is traditionally made on Sundays or for feast days such as Christmas.
The basic concept has remained the same: wafer-thin pasta dough is cut into squares or circles, filled with meat, vegetables, fish or cheese, then wrapped into a parcel. There are so many different shapes, different fillings and, of course, each type can be accompanied with a different sauce. As with all Italian food, these vary between regions, towns and villages, and even families have their own favourites.
In Bologna, tortellini filled with prosciutto are traditionally served in a light broth; in the towns of Parma and Piacenza, half-moon agnolini stuffed with pot-roasted meat are popular served in broth or with a sauce. In Piemonte, agnolotti filled with various meats and vegetables are traditional. Liguria has pansotti filled with local greens and cheese; meaty casoncelli are eaten in Bergamo in Lombardy; and tortelli with pumpkin are a speciality of Cremona. In Sardinia, culurzones are filled with mashed potato, cheese and mint; and their deep-fried seadas have a sweet filling.
In this chapter, I have given you recipes for a few of my favourite filled pastas, but there are so, so many more. If you prefer, you can make them into different shapes, use other fillings or even invent your own – leftover roast meat and veggies make excellent fillings. They do take a little time, patience and love, but these delicious little parcels of joy are worth it. You can always make more and freeze them to enjoy at another time – they don’t need defrosting, as you can cook them from frozen. Serve with a quick butter and sage sauce and you can be enjoying a good, nutritious homemade meal in no time.
PANSOTTI LIGURI CON SALSA ALLE NOCI
LIGURIAN SWISS CHARD PANSOTTI IN A WALNUT SAUCE
These eggless pasta parcels are a speciality of Liguria, where the filling is usually made with local greens known as preboggion. When these greens are not available, Swiss chard, spinach or borage can be used. The butter and sage sauce (see here) would also work well as an alternative to the walnut sauce.
Serves 4 (makes about 24 pansotti)
1 x quantity of Eggless Pasta Dough (see here)
Italian ‘00’ pasta flour, for dusting
1 egg, beaten
sea salt
For the filling:
400 g/14 oz Swiss chard or rainbow chard
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, left whole
100 g/3½ oz ricotta (alternatively use a cream cheese)
40 g/1½ oz/generous ½ cup grated Parmesan
a few thyme leaves
1 egg, beaten
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the walnut sauce:
20 g/¾ oz bread
5 tbsp milk
85 g/3 oz/generous ½ cup walnut halves
1 garlic clove
a few thyme leaves
10 g/¼ oz/3 tbsp pine nuts
20 g/¾ oz/5 tbsp grated Parmesan
Make the eggless pasta dough as described here.
To make the filling, wash the chard, then remove the stalks (keep them for another recipe). Roughly chop the leaves and set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, add the garlic and sweat for 1 minute. Add the chard and some salt, lower the heat, cover with a lid and cook for about 5 minutes until softened. Remove from the heat, discard the garlic, then drain and squeeze excess liquid from the chard. In a large bowl, combine the chard with the ricotta, grated Parmesan, thyme leaves, beaten egg and some black pepper.
Roll out the pasta dough on a lightly floured work surface until wafer-thin (or to the thinnest setting on a pasta machine). Cut the dough into 7-cm (2¾-in) squares and brush each with egg wash. Place a little filling in the middle of each, then fold the dough over to form a triangle. Press to seal.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the pansotti and cook for about 4 minutes.
For the sauce, soak the bread in the milk for about a minute, then place all the ingredients into a food processor and process until smooth. Transfer to a large frying pan (skillet) and heat.
Drain the pansotti with a slotted spoon and add to the walnut sauce, with perhaps a little of the hot pasta cooking water, mixing well to combine. Heat through and serve immediately.
CULURZONES
SARDINIAN CULURZONES WITH POTATO, PECORINO AND MINT
This traditional filled pasta from Sardinia, also known as culurgiones or culinjonis, can have various fillings – however, the shape, which represents a wheat sheaf, always remains the same. It’s quite a tricky shape to master at first, but with a little practice you will get the hang of it. They were traditionally made to celebrate the wheat harvest and this is probably how the shape evolved. The filling of mashed potato and cheese is so delicious that once you start to eat them, you can’t stop! These also work well with a butter ans sage sauce (see here).
Serves 4 (makes about 36 culurzones)
1 x quantity of Egg Pasta Dough (see here)
1 x quantity of Basic Tomato Sauce (see here)
Italian ‘00’ pasta flour, for dusting
sea salt
For the filling:
500 g/1 lb 2 oz potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
splash of extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, very finely chopped
70 g/2½ oz/1 cup grated Pecorino, plus extra to serve (or Parmesan)
10 mint leaves, very finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Make the eggless pasta dough as described here and the tomato sauce as described here.
To make the filling, cook the potatoes in boiling water until tender.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a small frying pan (skillet) over a medium–low heat, add the onion and sweat, covered with a lid, for about 10 minutes until softened.
Drain the cooked potatoes and let steam-dry for a couple of minutes, to make sure all the moisture is removed. Mash the potatoes (I like to use a ricer), then thoroughly combine with the softened onions, grated Pecorino and chopped mint, adding salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Roll out the pasta dough on a lightly floured work surface until wafer-thin (or to the thinnest setting on a pasta machine). Cut the dough into 10-cm (4-in) circles. Place a good amount of the filling (roughly the size of a walnut) in the middle of each pasta circle and brush the edges with a little water. Take each circle in your hand, gently close in half, then pinch a fold of the dough over from the right, and then the left, side to create a pleated effect (similar to a Cornish pasty). Pinch the top to seal.
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil, add the culurzones and cook for 3–4 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat through the tomato sauce in a large frying pan. Using a slotted spoon or pasta spider, drain the culurzones and transfer them to the tomato sauce, just gently coating them to ensure you don’t break them. Serve immediately with a sprinkling of grated Pecorino.
BAKED PASTA
I love a baked pasta dish. When I was a child, we would have pasta al forno for special occasions, which would be lovingly baked in our grandfather’s wood-fired oven. For southern Italians, a special baked pasta dish is like filled pasta in the north of Italy, as some recipes often take a lot of time to prepare. At Christmas, we would enjoy a festive lasagne, with fresh pasta sheets made by my mother, a ragù sauce made by my Zia Maria and meatballs patiently rolled by my sisters. It was such a huge and nutritious dish that a small square of it would suffice, but also because this was just our starter course!
Baked pasta is a great way of using up leftovers and this is probably how it originated. Leftovers of cheese, cured meats and tomato sauce are perfect ingredients – mix these with some cooked pasta, pour into an ovenproof dish, sprinkle with lots of Parmesan or Pecorino, bake in a hot oven and you get a wonderful, nutritious dish with minimum effort.
Again, as with all pasta dishes, there are regional variations. The traditional lasagne with a Bolognese ragù and white sauce, known locally as Lasagne Emiliane, originates from the Bologna region and its popularity has spread worldwide. Of course, there are many more varieties all over Italy and you can enjoy lighter versions with vegetables and ricotta cheese or with seafood. Cannelloni is another classic, with fillings of minced (ground) meat or spinach and ricotta.
Other popular baked shapes are rigatoni, conchiglioni (large shells) and paccheri (large tubes), as well as fusilli, which are excellent with cheese sauces.
The recipes in this chapter all use dried pasta, including lasagne sheets and cannelloni that do not require pre-cooking, and you can find both egg and eggless varieties. You can make your own fresh pasta sheets, however these will need to be blanched and dried with paper towels before baking. I always keep packets of dried lasagne sheets and cannelloni tubes in my storecupboard, as these baked pasta dishes are family favourites – not only made for special occasions, but often for midweek meals.
LASAGNE CON RAGÙ DI VERDURE
LASAGNE WITH SLOW-COOKED VEGETABLE RAGÙ
This is a lighter version of the classic lasagne, with vegetables replacing the meat Bolognese ragù. The vegetables are cooked on a very low heat so they do not go mushy and the flavours infuse well. Delicious comfort food for all the family to enjoy. If you don’t have a particular vegetable, you can replace with what you like or have.
Serves 4
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 shallot, finely sliced
1 leek, finely sliced
1 celery stalk, finely sliced
1 carrot, finely sliced
1 turnip, finely sliced
150g/5½ oz pumpkin, cubed
85g/3oz mushrooms, sliced
100g/3½ oz curly endive, roughly chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 sprig of marjoram
1 sprig of thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tbsp canned chopped tomatoes
250ml/9fl oz/1 cup vegetable stock – or use a stock cube
butter, to grease and finish
8–10 fresh lasagne sheets
100g/3½ oz Parmesan, grated
for the white sauce
40g/1½ oz/3 tbsp butter
40g/1½ oz/5 tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour
500ml/18fl oz/2 cups full-fat milk
a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the shallot and leek and sweat on a medium heat for 3 minutes. Add the celery, carrot, turnip, pumpkin, mushrooms, endive, garlic, herbs and black pepper. Stir in the tomatoes and stock, reduce the heat to minimum, then cover with a lid and cook for 1½ hours, stirring from time to time.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
To make the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan, remove from the heat and whisk in the flour very quickly to avoid lumps, then gradually add the milk, whisking well. Return to the heat and cook on a medium heat for 3–4 minutes, whisking all the time until the sauce begins to thicken. Remove from the heat and stir in some salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Grease an ovenproof dish, about 20 x 25cm/8 x 10 inches, with butter and spread a little of the white sauce on the bottom. Arrange a layer of lasagne sheets on top, followed by some vegetable ragù, a little white sauce, and a sprinkling of grated Parmesan. Continue making layers like this until you have used all the ingredients, ending with white sauce and grated Parmesan. Top with small knobs of butter. Cover with foil and bake in the oven for 20 minutes.
Remove the foil and cook for another 10 minutes to brown the top. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 5 minutes before serving.
LASAGNE DI CARNEVALE
CARNIVAL-TIME LASAGNE
This typical southern Italian lasagne is usually made for special occasions such as Carnevale – the week before Lent. As a time when eating meat is forbidden, a lasagne such as this one – with meat ragù and sausage – would be made to enjoy before the period of abstinence.
Serves 6
250 g/9 oz Italian pork sausage
splash of extra-vigin olive oil
350 g/12 oz ricotta
2 eggs
150 g/5½ oz/2¼ cups grated Parmesan
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 lasagne sheets
250 g/9 oz mozzarella, coarsely chopped
For the ragù:
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 bay leaves
750 g/1 lb 10 oz beef brisket, cut into large chunks
5 tbsp red wine
1 tbsp tomato purée (paste) dissolved in a little warm water
3 x 400-g/14-oz cans of chopped plum tomatoes
a handful of basil leaves
20 g/¾ oz/¼ cup grated Parmesan
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat, add the onion and bay leaves, and sweat for about 3 minutes, until softened. Add the beef and seal well all over. Increase the heat, add the wine and allow to evaporate. Stir in the tomato purée mixture, chopped tomatoes, basil, Parmesan and some salt and pepper, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover and simmer gently for at least 2 hours, until the meat is cooked through and the sauce is thick. Check from time to time, stirring with a wooden spoon and, if necessary, add a little hot water. When cooked, remove the beef and set aside to enjoy later.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Cook the pork sausage: you can either do this in the oven or fry it. If using the oven, put the sausage into a roasting pan with a splash of olive oil and bake for 25 minutes. If frying, fry for about 15 minutes in a frying pan (skillet) with a splash of olive oil over a medium heat. When cooked through, remove, slice and set aside.
In a bowl, combine the ricotta, eggs, half of the Parmesan, and some salt and pepper, until creamy.
Line the bottom of a baking dish (about 24 x 17 cm/9½ x 7 in) with some of the tomato ragù, cover with a layer of lasagne sheets, then add a layer of ricotta, scatter over some sausage slices and some pieces of mozzarella, then add another layer of tomato ragù. Continue making layers in this way until you have used up all the ingredients, ending with a layer of lasagne sheets, tomato ragù, mozzarella and the remaining grated Parmesan sprinkled on top.
Cover with foil and bake in the hot oven for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for a further 20 minutes, until golden and bubbling.
CANNELLONI CON LE BIETOLE
CANNELLONI FILLED WITH SWISS CHARD
Traditionally, cannelloni are filled with meat or, for a veggie option, the classic spinach and ricotta combination. I love the taste of Swiss chard and have combined it here with a little potato and cheese for a different but delicious filling. I’ve used colourful rainbow chard, but you can also use regular green chard or the original spinach, if unavailable..
Serves 4
1 x quantity of Basic Tomato Sauce (see here)
30 g/1 oz/2 tbsp butter
½ small onion, very finely chopped
460 g/12 oz rainbow chard, finely sliced, including stalks (alternatively use spinach)
1 potato (about 150 g/5 oz), grated
20 g/¾ oz/¼ cup grated Parmesan, plus extra for topping (alternatively use cheddar or parmesan)
30 g/1 oz/½ cup grated provolone cheese
14 dried cannelloni pasta tubes
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Make the tomato sauce according to the recipe here.
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Melt the butter in a large frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat, then add the onion and sweat for a couple of minutes. Stir in the chard and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat, cover and cook for about 10 minutes, until the chard is tender – the stalk should be al dente. Stir in the grated potato and cook for a further 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the grated Parmesan and provolone. Fill the cannelloni pasta tubes with this mixture.
Line a baking dish (about 28 x 22 cm/11 x 9 in) with some of the tomato sauce, lay the filled cannelloni tubes on top and pour over the remaining tomato sauce. Sprinkle with some grated Parmesan, cover with foil and bake in the hot oven for 20 minutes.
Remove the foil and bake for a further 15 minutes.
CONCHIGLIONI AL FORNO RIPIENI DI FUNGHI E PROSCIUTTO
BAKED PASTA SHELLS FILLED WITH MUSHROOMS AND HAM
It’s very common in Italy to fill this large shell-shaped pasta and bake it. This is a delicious combination of ham, mushrooms and white sauce. For vegetarians, omit the ham and increase the quantity of mushrooms. I tend to use regular button or chestnut (cremini) mushrooms for this recipe.
Serves 4
about 30 conchiglioni pasta shells
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
150 g/5½ oz prosciutto, very finely chopped
(alternatively use bacon or cooked ham)
2 garlic cloves, minced
750 g/1 lb 10 oz mushrooms, very finely chopped
2 tbsp white wine
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the white sauce:
40 g/1½ oz/3 tbsp butter
40 g/1½ oz/generous ¼ cup plain (all-purpose) flour
500 ml/17 fl oz/generous 2 cups milk
pinch of sea salt
pinch of grated nutmeg
150 g/5½ oz/2¼ cups grated Parmesan
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the conchiglioni until al dente. Drain the pasta, rinse under cold water and let drain upside-down so any excess water drains off.
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan (skillet) over a medium–high heat, add the prosciutto and sauté for 1 minute, then add the garlic and sweat for 1 minute. If using cooked ham, add in after the mushrooms have cooked. Stir in the mushrooms, increase the heat, add the wine and sauté for 5–7 minutes, until the mushrooms are cooked. Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper, then stir in the parsley and let cool slightly.
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Make the white sauce: melt the butter in a small saucepan, then remove from the heat and, with a small whisk, mix in the flour very quickly to avoid lumps. Gradually add the milk, whisking well between each addition. Return to the heat and cook over a medium heat for 3–4 minutes, whisking all the time, until the sauce begins to thicken. Remove from the heat, season with salt and nutmeg, and stir in half of the grated Parmesan.
Combine a ladleful of the white sauce with the mushroom mixture and mix well. Line the bottom of a large baking dish (about 34 x 22 cm/13 x 9 in) with about half of the white sauce. Fill the pasta shells with the mushroom mixture and lay them in the dish on top of the sauce. Pour over the remaining white sauce and sprinkle with the remaining grated Parmesan. Bake in the hot oven for 20 minutes, until golden and bubbly.
