Success with Caramel 101

The main thing that can cause a calamitous candy problem when you’re making caramel is crystallization. Crystallization is just what it sounds like: as the sugar gets hotter and the liquid in the sugar evaporates, small crystals can form. And if they get in contact with each other, they can quickly become larger, solid chunks of hardened crystal. When this happens, a chain reaction takes place and the sugar quickly goes from a gooey hot mixture to an immovable brick block. It is sometimes possible to halt and reverse the crystallization by adding some corn syrup or a bit of cream and stirring rapidly. But this doesn’t always work, and a better goal is to prevent the crystallization from starting in first place.

The key to avoiding crystallization lies in adhering to a few simple rules:

• Don’t stir. Almost every non-caramel recipe on the planet encourages stirring because stirring helps foods cook evenly and can prevent burning. But when you’re caramelizing sugar, stirring gets in the way of proper chemistry. Once the sugar has dissolved and the temperature is rising, any stirring motion will deposit sugar along the sides of the pan, even if you think you’re being careful. That sugar, now stuck to the side of the pan and without the liquid in the pan to keep it moving around and heating properly, will quickly lose every last bit of its moisture and start to crystallize. It is okay to gently swirl the pan around to move the bubbling sugar a bit. But no stirring!
• Once the sugar mixture has come to a boil, wash down the inside walls of the saucepan with a damp pastry brush. The moisture will keep sugar from sticking to the walls of the pan, which will prevent crystals from forming. Just dip the pastry brush in water so it is more than damp but not dripping wet, and brush it quickly over all the inside walls of the pan.
• Add a little something to the sugar when you start to cook it. Generally, there are three basic methods to start caramel: heat only sugar in the pan, heat sugar and water, or heat sugar with some or all of the other ingredients. Crystallization can occur when the hot sugar mixture loses too much moisture too quickly, so it’s best not to just heat the sugar alone. Yes, this method works most of the time. Its success is based on the fact that the sugar itself often has just enough liquid to keep the mixture moist so that it can begin caramelizing. But this method can be unpredictable, which is why I don’t use it. I prefer to add water (or other ingredients) to the sugar before I start to heat it, which gives me more control over the process. The extra moisture helps ensure that the sugar won’t become too dry. This method, combined with washing down the inside of the pan, works very well.

The Basic Process in Ten Steps

This is the step-by-step process for basic chewy caramel candies although these steps also apply to all caramels. The details of a particular recipe may vary, but you’ll find that the basic steps, from dissolving the sugar, to boiling it, to bringing it to your desired finished caramel, are universal.

Instructions

1. 1. Prepare the baking dish by spraying it with cooking spray, lining it with parchment paper, and spraying the parchment with cooking spray.
   
2. 2. Warm the cream, butter, and salt in a medium saucepan until the butter melts; set aside.
   
3. 3. Bring the sugar mixture to a boil in a large, heavy-duty saucepan. Don’t stir the mixture during this step. You can gently swirl the mixture around the pan, but no stirring.
   
4. 4. When the sugar mixture has reached a boil, wipe down the sides of the pan with a damp pastry brush.
   
5. 5. Once the sugar mixture has reached its desired temperature, remove the pan from the stove and whisk in the warmed cream and butter mixture.
   
6. 6. Return the pot to the stove and bring the caramel back to a boil, without stirring.
   
7. 7. When the caramel is the right color/temperature, remove from the heat and whisk in the vanilla.
   
8. 8. Pour the caramel into the prepared dish.
   
9. 9. Let cool, then transfer the block of caramel to a cutting board and cut into 1- by 2-inch pieces.
   
10. 10. Wrap the caramels in strips of waxed paper or special decorative candy wrappers.
    

Other Helpful Hints

• Safety first! The temperature of the caramel will often be over 300°F. Take care that you and anyone else in the kitchen (especially small children) do not get scalded by the hot mixture. Wear a long-sleeved shirt, and be mindful of the stages and temperature of your caramel. It’s crucial to be aware of any other kitchen distractions that can cause you harm.
• Don’t dip a spoon, or worse, a finger, into the cooked caramel to sneak a taste. This is not a simmering pot of chicken soup. This is a screaming-hot pot of scorching caramel. Unless you consider removing skin from your tongue and the roof of your mouth to be a weight-loss plan, don’t do it.
• Avoid making caramels on a humid day. Humidity can adversely affect the finished candy and prevent it from setting up and achieving the right texture.
• Stay alert while you’re cooking, and don’t leave the kitchen. While it might seem like the initial stages of heating the sugar take forever, as the temperature rises a matter of seconds can mean the difference between golden brown and burned.
• Premeasure all of your ingredients so they are ready to be added. For example, you might need to add the vanilla and salt when the sugar’s temperature is 290°F. If you wait until the temperature gets close, and then you have to reach into the cabinet to grab and measure these ingredients, you’ll probably be too late, and you’ll have burned the sugar.
• When measuring out corn syrup, thinly coat the measuring cup with butter or cooking spray before pouring in the corn syrup. This will help the syrup pour out faster and completely.
• Be careful when adding cream near the end of the cooking. The molten mixture will bubble up, often to two to three times its volume. This is normal, but you have to be ready for it. Using a larger, heavy-duty pot helps keep it all contained so you won’t have hard-to-clean spillovers on your stovetop. If this step makes you nervous, you can remove the pan from the heat while you slowly add the cream. This gives you a bit more control over the process.
• Cleaning up after making caramels is easy with one simple trick: It may look like you need a chisel to remove the cooled coating of caramel from the bottom of the pot, but all you have to do is fill the pot with water and place it on the stove to boil. Once the water boils, the remaining caramel will come right off. If your utensils and tools are covered in caramel, place them into the boiling water and they’ll easily come clean, too.
• Have patience. Depending on the amount of cooling time required by your recipe, it might be hours before you can taste the caramel. Remember: it will be worth it!