1

ABOUT THAI CURRIES

Curry in some form or another is popular throughout Asia and the Middle East. Thought to have its origins in India and Pakistan, curry was introduced to south-east Asia by Indian immigrants several centuries ago, where over time it underwent a period of evolution, changing and developing some unique characteristics with the inclusion of local ingredients and cooking styles.

Thai v Indian Curry

The typical Thai curry (gaeng) is quite different from Indian curry. The Thai curry is generally a speedily cooked more soup-like dish made with coconut milk or water with a complex and aromatic base of fresh curry paste, compared to its Indian counterpart which is often slow cooked with a thicker sauce made with a base of onion, ginger and dried spice blends. Also, Thai cooks use more fresh herbs (such as lemongrass, kaffir lime and basil) and rarely use the dried herbs and spices favoured by Indian cooks. On the whole there are very few Thai curries that resemble Indian curries. A couple of exceptions are the Massaman (Thai Muslim) and Panang curry – two Thai curries based predominantly on dried herbs and warm Indian style spices.

There are only four spices used regularly in Thai cooking. Dry roasted cumin and coriander seeds, turmeric and dried chilli are ground and combined in varying proportions with fresh herbs to make the pungent and beautifully aromatic curry pastes that are unique to Thai cooking. Indian cuisine, on the other hand, is characterized by the expert use of several spices and spice blends that include cardamom, fenugreek, mustard seed, cinnamon, nutmeg and many others.

Types of Thai Curry

In many Thai homes some type of spicy, aromatic curry is eaten with rice every day. Endless combinations of fresh and tasty ingredients go to make dozens of different types of delicious Thai curries, traditionally containing little meat. With local herbs and vegetables, some grown around the home, it is an economical, tasty and nutritious dish.

Thai curries can be broadly split into two categories – coconut based or water based – and further identified by the colour or type of curry paste used.

Coconut based Thai Curry

The richer coconut based Thai curries are the most popular in Thai restaurants throughout the west, with red (gaeng phet), green (gaeng kiow whan) and Massaman (gaeng massaman) being the most popular with western diners. Yellow Thai curry (gaeng leuang) and Panang (gaeng phanaeng) are also common. These curries, often made with generous amounts of coconut cream or milk, are deliciously creamy and generally less spicy, the coconut fat effectively toning down the heat of the chillies.

Water based Thai Curry

The spiciest Thai curries are generally water based. Water based sour curries (gaeng sohm plah), often prepared with fish and souring agents such as tamarind or lime, are typically eaten throughout Thailand. Jungle curry (gaeng pah), a delicious, spicy curry cooked with or without meat, is probably the best known water based curry in western restaurants. Water or stock based Thai soups are often eaten with rice or noodles in much the same way as curries.

Whether you choose to make your curries with water or coconut, how hot you choose to have them is purely a matter of personal taste and your own chilli tolerance. Varying the amount of chilli, using a milder variety of chilli, adding more coconut milk or cream, are all effective ways of moderating the heat of the Thai curry.

 

2

BASIC INGREDIENTS FOR THAI FLAVOURS

The unique taste of Thai food comes with the harmonious melding of four main flavours – sweet, sour, salty and spicy-hot – underpinning the lively, fresh aromas and flavours produced by fresh herbs and vegetables. Good Thai cuisine is intensely flavoursome and incredibly delicious, so much so that eating a good Thai curry can lift your spirits and enhance your mood.

The best Thai cooking utilizes the freshest ingredients possible to produce wonderfully vibrant, fragrant and flavour packed dishes, but the secret of a really good Thai dish is in creating a balance between the four main flavours. Each flavour has to be intense enough to make a statement but not so strong that it overpowers the others. More about how to create this harmony of flavours is outlined further on in the book.

The basic ingredients used to produce the sweet, sour, salty and spicy flavours unique to Thai food are listed overleaf.

Although these ingredients are readily available in most places these days, you don’t have to do without Thai food just because you can’t find one or more of them where you live. The beauty of Thai cuisine is that it is quite adaptable and flexible so you can successfully substitute any of the ingredients listed here with other readily available items for similar results.

Fish sauce

(nam pla)

salty and pungent

Kaffir limes

(ma gruud)

sour and aromatic

Tamarind

(ma kam piek)

sour with a hint of sweetness

Lemongrass

(ta krai)

sour and aromatic

Palm sugar

(nam taan peep)

rich and sweet

Cumin

(ye raa)

spicy and aromatic

Ground pepper

(prig thai bhon)

spicy and hot

Ground chillies

(prig kee nu bonn)

very hot

Fresh Thai chillies

(prik kee noo)

hot (7/10) and aromatic

For instance, fish sauce can be substituted with light soy sauce or even salt. As fish sauce is quite pungent and not to everyone’s taste some western cooks prefer to use soy sauce or salt instead anyway.

Kaffir limes, lemongrass and tamarind can be substituted with limes, lemons or even a little vinegar. I often use grated fresh lime zest and lime juice instead of kaffir lime, for impromptu and delicious Thai curries and soups.

Soft brown or white sugar can be used instead of palm sugar, and cumin may be substituted with coriander (seed) or left out altogether if neither was available. Even the chilli powder can be substituted with hot sauce if necessary.

Some ingredients like lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves may be available frozen so check the freezer section of your supermarket if you can’t get them fresh. Whilst the frozen ingredients are quite good, in my experience the same ingredients in dried form are generally tasteless.

The key is to use fresh vegetables and herbs and authentic ingredients where you can, and substitute where you can’t but also to cook Thai dishes according to your personal taste, tasting as you cook, and adding a little more of this or that until the balance of those four flavours feels just right to your tastebuds.

Other Important Ingredients for Thai cooking

There are many exotic, unusual and (in the west) unfamiliar ingredients used in traditional Thai cooking throughout Thailand. I have focused mainly on recipes that can be made with ingredients that are easily available just about everywhere, but I’ve also given some ideas on substituting in case you can’t find something.

Fresh Ingredients

Coriander (Cilantro)

Mint

Galangal

use ginger instead

Thai chillies

use any chilli according to how

hot you want it

Thai basil

use sweet basil instead

Thai holy basil

use sweet basil instead

Thai lemon basil

use lemon scented basil instead

Crispy fried garlic

omit or use crispy fried onion

Crispy fried onion

omit if not available

Bean sprouts

Garlic

Garlic shoots

(flat garlic chives)

omit or grow your own

Shallots

(French shallots)

cooking onion may be used instead

Spring onions

(scallions)

Thai eggplant

any aubergine (eggplant)

Dried Ingredients

Bay leaf

Cardamom

Cumin

Cloves

Coriander seeds

Turmeric

Paprika

Dried shrimps

omit if not available

Other Ingredients

Coconut milk

use canned in preference to powdered

Coconut cream

use canned in preference to powdered

Jasmine rice

any long-grain white rice

Rice noodles

fresh or dried

Shrimp paste

(Ka Pee or Belacan)

omit if not available

 

3

HERBS IN THAI COOKING AND HOW TO GROW YOUR OWN

Fresh herbs are used liberally in Asian cooking, and Thai food is no exception to this. The colour, aroma and flavour that fresh herbs impart cannot be matched by anything else. Herbs like coriander, basil and mint are available everywhere nowadays which is just as well because no Thai dish would be complete without one or more of these lovely culinary wonders.

Most herbs are really easy to grow and can be grown in pots, hanging baskets, borders or beds. The sheer pleasure of picking your own, fresh, intoxicatingly aromatic herbs just when you need them is worth experiencing – and you can be sure that they are chemical-free and with no food miles.

To get the best possible flavour and aroma, always try to include as many as possible of the fresh herbs listed in a recipe for Thai food.

Coriander (Cilantro)

Coriander is an absolute must for Thai cooking, where not just the leaves but all parts of the plant are used in different preparations and stages of cooking. Coriander root is an essential ingredient for Thai curry pastes, the stems are added to soups, curries and stir-fries and the leaves used for garnish and decoration.

Home-grown coriander, freshly picked, is the best for flavour and fragrance. It is easy to grow and can be grown year round in a warm climate and during the warmer months in cold climates. Soak a handful of coriander seeds (the same coriander seeds you use as a spice) in a little water overnight. The next day, spread the seeds onto well drained soil in a garden bed, or in a deep pot placed where it will get lots of sun. Cover with a light sprinkling of soil or compost and water in. Keep moist and the seeds will germinate in about 14 days. Yo u can begin to harvest when the plants are as little as 10 cm (3 inches) high but they will grow to about double this height.

Coriander bolts and goes to seed quite quickly if it dries out or if the weather becomes hot. The green seeds are intensely aromatic and can be used for anything that you would use the fresh herb for.

Coriander is not a ‘cut and come again’ herb like mint or basil and will need to be sown every three to four weeks for a continuous supply.

Thai Basil, Thai Holy Basil and Thai Lemon Basil

These three varieties are quite different in appearance, aroma and flavour but all are interchangeable according to personal preference. Thai Basil has beautiful purple-green leaves and a mild aniseed flavour. Thai Holy Basil has large green leaves with purple stems and tastes more of cloves with a musky aroma that intensifies with cooking. Lemon Basil is a fast-growing plant with pale-green leaves and a fresh citrus aroma that is great with seafood dishes.

Basil is a popular herb in Thai cooking and there are several strains of oriental basils, all generally stronger in flavour than western varieties. These sensationally aromatic herbs make excellent pot plants that can be grown indoors (preferably with periods of sunshine in the open air) or outdoors during warm weather. Grow them as border plants or in pots and containers. They will do well in partial shade or full sun but they need a sheltered position and good drainage.

Sow seeds in late spring or early summer about 5mm (¼ inch) deep and about 30 cm (12 inches) apart where they are to grow, or buy seedlings or potted plants from your local nursery or garden centre. Pick the leaves as needed and remove flower heads to keep the plants growing vigorously.

Garlic Shoots (Flat Garlic Chives)

Garlic is used liberally in Thai cooking and, although the green shoots that appear when garlic cloves are planted are not absolutely essential, the best flavour, colour and aroma will be achieved if they are included in a recipe that calls for them. Many greengrocers and supermarkets sell them these days but why pay the extra when you can so easily grow your own and have the freshest garlic chives in your backyard just when you need them?

Garlic shoots are similar in appearance to the green shoots on spring onions only they are flat and not quite as dark green. They can be grown year round except in very cold climates when the ground is frozen. In cold climates, plant cloves from spring onwards for harvesting through summer and autumn, right through to about six weeks before the ground is expected to freeze for harvesting the following spring. To sow, simply insert unpeeled garlic cloves into free-draining soil, about 15 cm (6 inches) apart in pots or garden beds until just the very top is visible above the soil. Keep moist and harvest when the shoots are around 25 cm (10 inches) high. If you harvest by slicing off the green part about 2 cm (just under an inch) above the ground, it will sprout again at least two or three times before you have to start again.

Beware though. Much of the garlic available in the western world is imported and, as part of the regulatory process, it is irradiated and treated with chemicals and hormones. This treatment increases the shelf life of the garlic but also effectively kills it so it will not grow. My mother, who had been growing garlic all her life, spent several frustrated years trying to grow it in England only to find that she couldn’t. The garlic either would not sprout shoots at all or, if it did, growth was stunted and useless. She had given up in despair until I realized what was going on and purchased some organically grown garlic bulbs which she hopefully, but sceptically, divided into cloves and planted in deep pots. Because the garlic was fresh and young, it took much longer to sprout than expected (during which time my mother totally gave up on the idea) but suddenly one day beautiful, healthy green shoots appeared all over the place. Needless to say, mum was ecstatic.

Planting it for garlic chives is a great way to use garlic cloves that are a bit old or starting to sprout, but, to be sure it will grow, you will need to buy organically or locally grown garlic that has not been destroyed with chemicals.

Spring Onions (Scallions) and Onion Shoots

These versatile little plants are used by cooks all over the world. Many western recipes call for the white part of the spring onion only but in Thai and other Asian cooking it is the green shoots that are most prized to add flavour, colour and aroma to a whole host of dishes. They are not an ‘essential’ but they do contribute that wow factor to many curries and soups.

Spring onions are readily available all year round, but home-grown produce is always fresher, costs next to nothing and is available just when you need it. Sow seeds thinly in rows in well-drained soil every three weeks or so from spring to autumn or buy onion sets for greater ease and speed to harvesting. Another way of obtaining fresh green onion shoots quickly and cheaply is to plant cooking onions that are beginning to sprout. Simply bury them in soil or compost, in pots or garden beds, leaving the shooting peak exposed above ground. Water occasionally and slice off shoots as you need them.

Mint (Spearmint)

One of the most wonderful of herbs, mint is popular all over the world. Nothing compares with its fresh, ‘minty’ flavour and aroma. It’s fabulous in anything from sweets like chocolate to ice-cream and savoury concoctions like chutneys to sauces. It’s also amazingly easy to grow; in fact, given half a chance, this hardy perennial will happily spread all over your garden.

Mint does not grow well from seed so either buy a plant from your local nursery or dig up a small piece of the plant – including some of the root – from a friend’s or neighbour’s crop. Choose a site in your garden where it can spread freely without interfering with other plants, or plant it in a good-sized pot. Another way to control mint’s rampant habit is to plant it in a bottomless container sunk into the soil. I’ve grown mint this way for some years and it works really well.

Mint prefers partial shade and moist, reasonably rich soils, but it will grow in full sun or very little sun and in any kind of soil you have. Keep the soil moist until the plant is established and harvest often, whether you need it or not, to encourage vigorous growth. Prune back to just above ground level once the gardening season is over and top dress with compost. Once in a while, dig out the excess to keep it in check.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass is a tropical plant used liberally in Thai and other Asian cuisines for its lovely zingy, lemony flavour.

Although lemongrass is native to the tropics and is frost tender, it can be grown as an annual or a tender perennial in cold climates. Lemongrass will grow from root cuttings or can be propagated by dividing an existing plant, so, if you know someone who grows it, ask for a piece of stem with some root on it, or a small clump. (Wear gloves if you divide a lemongrass clump as the leaves have sharp edges.) Otherwise, buy small plants or start off as seed indoors. Plant outdoors in pots or borders, feed with lots of organic compost and water generously – lemongrass likes lots of water. Lemongrass will grow to around 1.2m (4 feet) tall and is an attractive ornamental.

In cold climates, cut back a little and bring indoors during winter. For cooking, peel away the tough outer leaves and use the pale bulbous section only, either crushed or finely sliced.

Bay Leaf (Sweet Bay or Laurel Tree)

Bay leaves are common in the cuisines of Asia and the Mediterranean, where the bay tree is thought to have originated, and an essential ingredient in a bouquet garni.

Most people know the bay leaf as a grey-green, hard dry leaf that comes in a little plastic bag and, more often than not, after using the odd one, the remainder are left languishing at the back of the pantry shelf. However, bay leaves can be used fresh and, as is usually the case in the wonderful world of herbs, fresh is better for flavour and aroma than the old, dried leaves commonly found in shops and supermarkets in the west.

The flavour of bay leaves is quite strong, and most dishes require only one or two leaves. It is, however, very satisfying to be able to pick one fresh off the tree when needed to add that distinctive robust flavour to all manner of savoury soups, casseroles, sauces and curries.

Bay trees are relatively easy to grow, particularly in warm climates where they can grow to 25m (60 feet) tall and look quite beautiful. In cooler climates bay trees will not grow anywhere near as tall. Grown in containers they make gorgeous patio plants and can be kept pruned to a relatively compact size. Container grown plants can easily be over wintered indoors in very cold climates.

When cooking with bay leaves, whether fresh or dried, use sparingly, tear them up before using to release the aromatic oils and remove them before serving the dish.

 

4

THAI FOOD AND GOOD HEALTH

For those who love the tantalizingly lively and spicy flavours of Thai food, it is an added bonus that Thai cuisine is incredibly healthy, in fact possibly one of the healthiest you can eat. In eastern cultures it has been accepted for centuries that certain spices and herbs have the ability to prevent and even cure many ailments. It is usual within these cultures, even today, to treat many common illnesses with age old ‘remedies’ – everyday ingredients often residing in the pantry or growing in the garden.

Having been brought up in such a culture, it is ‘normal’ for me to use common ingredients as medicines for minor health issues. For example, I still reach for the fennel seeds and cardamom for stomach upsets; prepare a ginger ‘tea’ or soup for digestive problems or nausea and use turmeric both taken in food or drink and externally for strains and sprains. In recent years, as science has proved their worth, it has become more common in the west to use natural ingredients such as these to treat a range of conditions.

Many of the fresh herbs and spices, such as coriander, turmeric, galangal, lemongrass, mint and fresh chillies used in Thai cooking have proven immune boosting and disease fighting ability. Even coconut milk and cream, items perceived to be fattening and unhealthy, are in fact considered by nutritional experts and scientists to be extremely good for you. Including these ingredients in your diet will not only make your food taste great, but will also assist in promoting optimal health and well being.

Turmeric

Turmeric is a known anti-inflammatory. The active ingredient abundant in turmeric, curcumin, has been shown to be effective in relieving symptoms of arthritis, fighting infections and speeding wound healing. Turmeric is available in capsule form from leading healthfood stores and supermarkets but is comparatively expensive. Eating foods, such as curries, cooked with turmeric is a good, inexpensive way to get the health benefits of this useful spice.

Galangal

A relative of ginger and similar in appearance and flavour, galangal has been used for centuries in holistic medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments. Like ginger, galangal is very effective for alleviating abdominal discomfort, vomiting and nausea and aiding digestion. It is also effective in improving peripheral blood circulation and reducing the pain associated with arthritis. Try this ‘tea’ next time you have a stomach upset or feel nauseous – steep about a tablespoonful of grated ginger or galangal in a cup of boiling water for about ten minutes. Strain and sweeten with sugar or honey and drink while still warm.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass is used extensively in Thai cooking and ancient Chinese medicine. It has been shown to be particularly useful for reducing the incidence of colds and flu and relieving symptoms such as fever and headache.

Coriander Seed

Coriander seed has been used for centuries by healers all over the world, including the UK, Greece, China and India, to treat gastrointestinal problems such as flatulence and bloating, bacterial and fungal infections and to stimulate appetite.

Chillies

Researchers in Thailand first noticed that people who ate large amounts of chilli experienced a lower incidence of potentially dangerous blood clots. After studying data from other countries where hot and spicy food is commonly consumed by the general population, scientists concluded that the active ingredient – capsaicin – found in chillies does indeed possess the ability to break down blood clots. Applied topically in an ointment, capsaicin has also been found to control the chronic pain associated with conditions such as shingles and neuralgia. Capsaicin ointments are now available on prescription.

Mint

Mint has long been integral to the cuisine and medicinal practices of Indian, European and Middle Eastern societies. It is well known for its ability to soothe the digestive tract, reduce the severity of stomach ache and alleviate the discomfort of irritable bowel syndrome (IBS). Mint also has documented anti-fungal properties, and animal studies show that it can prevent the formation of lung, skin and colon cancers. Mint supplements and teas are readily available, or try making this delicious fresh mint tea: steep a small handful of fresh mint leaves and a teaspoon (or teabag) of black or green tea in hot (not boiling) water for about five minutes. Keep covered to prevent the volatile oils from escaping. Strain and sweeten with honey or sugar if desired.

Basil

Basil is a lovely, robustly aromatic herb used widely in Thai, Indian, Italian, Mediterranean and other cuisines. Rich in flavonoids, basil has been shown to prevent cell damage from radiation and free radicals. Also, the numerous volatile oils in basil have demonstrated bactericidal activity and been shown to be effective against organisms that have become resistant to antibiotics. A solution containing just 1 per cent of these oils can be used to rinse vegetables and kill infectious bacteria that cause diarrhoea. Some dieticians recommend adding basil to salad dressings to ensure safety when eating salads.

Basil also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, apparently in a similar manner to aspirin, making it a good herb to consume by people who suffer with arthritis.

Coconut Milk and Cream

Coconut milk and particularly coconut cream are generally perceived to be high in calories and to be contributing to obesity and related illnesses. Yes, it is a calorie dense food but that is a plus in many countries. Yes, it does contain fat, but the fats in coconut milk and cream are considered by experts to be the good fats, not the bad disease-causing ones. The principal fatty acid in coconut is lauric acid, the same fatty acid found in abundance in mother’s milk. Lauric acid strengthens the immune system and protects bone and brain tissue.

It is now known that eating good fat is essential to good health and even to weight control. The fats in coconut have been shown to lower bad cholesterol (LDL) and raise good cholesterol (HDL), boost immunity, modulate insulin levels and provide valuable fatty acids often lacking in western diets. It is thought that the fats in coconut milk and coconut cream do not cause weight gain as readily as polyunsaturated fats.

 

5

EQUIPMENT AND COOKING BASICS

It never ceases to amaze me how something as delicious as Thai food can be so simple, flexible, undemanding and so quick to cook. All you have to do is equip yourself with a few simple kitchen items, get to know a few basic principles and techniques, and you can prepare the most wonderful Thai dishes in minutes.

Equipment

The typical Thai kitchen takes quite a simple approach to kitchen equipment so you really don’t need any special items to cook great Thai food. Many Thais have very minimalist cooking facilities with few kitchen utensils, yet the elaborate and diverse food they cook is simply amazing – grinding spices and making rich and colourful curry pastes with nothing more than a sharp knife and a pestle and mortar and cooking a range of mouthwatering dishes with one or two small pots and a single wok. Furthermore, simple, portable kitchens set up by the roadside cook and sell incredibly delicious food to hundreds of people daily without much ado.

Most of us in the west are not quite that adept however, so below are some kitchen items that will make preparing and cooking Thai food really easy and quick for the western cook.

If you don’t have a blender or coffee grinder and don’t wish to purchase these items, you can use a pestle and mortar for both grinding spices and making pastes – this is the traditional way and you will produce great curry pastes, but it is more laborious.

If you don’t own a wok and don’t want to get one, you can use a deep frying pan or saucepan. However, I will explain a bit about why a wok does what it does so you can decide whether to get one or use an existing utensil that may help you do much the same thing. In contrast to the favoured pots and pans of western cooks that allow for long, slow, even cooking, a wok is designed to be lightning fast. It will heat up rapidly and cool down just as fast. The thin metal of a good wok will transfer most of the heat of the flame to the food inside it almost immediately, cooking and searing the food at super speed whilst maintaining its freshness and crunch and giving it the caramelization that is characteristic of a good Thai dish. This speed of cooking is particularly important for Pad Thai and stir-fries.

Fortunately, a good wok need not be expensive. In fact, you can buy the cheapest and thinnest you can find, with two provisos: it is better not to buy an aluminium wok or one with a non-stick coating. Aluminium doesn’t heat up quickly and common coating materials don’t tolerate high temperatures and are likely to chip and flake and give off toxic fumes when heated to the temperatures you will need for Thai cooking. Unless you wish to spend more, look for a thin carbon steel wok about 34 cm (14 inches) wide. If you use gas to cook, buy a round-bottomed wok that comes with a ring for setting the wok on. This shape allows the flames to travel up the sides of the wok for better heat distribution.

The secret is in the ‘seasoning’ – of the wok that is.

How to Season Your Wok

A well seasoned wok will prevent food from sticking to it and will be protected from rusting. Yo u can buy ready seasoned woks at a price. Otherwise, there are varying ways of seasoning a wok but all use oil, salt and heat to do the job and I find this one easy and effective.

  • Spray a generous amount of cooking oil over the cooking surface of the wok, or pour about a quarter of a cup of oil into it and spread it over the surface using a paper towel. Discard any excess oil that pools at the bottom. Yo u don’t need to use expensive oil, any cooking oil will do.

  • Place the wok on medium-high heat and heat it for about 5 minutes. Make sure the extractor fan is on and windows are open as the wok will get very hot and the oil will smoke.

  • Turn off the heat and add about half a cup of table or cooking salt to the hot pan. Take a thick wad of paper towels or a kitchen rag and rub the salt well into the wok. Take care as it will be quite hot.

  • Discard excess salt and place the wok on medium-high heat again. Heat again for a further 4–5 minutes.

  • Turn off the heat, allow the wok to cool and wipe clean with a damp cloth. Spray or rub a little more oil onto the surface. Your previously shiny wok should now be blackened, seasoned and ready to cook up a feast.

This process can be repeated whenever your wok ceases to be non-stick.

Other Basics

Cooking Thai food is amazingly simple and speedy once you learn the basics. These few basic principles of Thai cooking once put into practice will have you cooking delicious Thai food in minutes.

  • Stock your pantry with all the non-perishable items that you plan to use regularly. Ingredients like coconut milk, fish sauce, soy sauce, palm sugar, dried shrimp, rice noodles and jasmine rice all keep well.

  • Have your basic equipment at the ready and your wok seasoned if you plan to use a wok.

  • Consider growing herbs that you will use regularly so that they are always on hand.

 

6

THAI COOKING TECHNIQUES, SECRETS AND TIPS

The Secret is in the Preparation

The secret to cooking great Thai food successfully is in the preparation. This is particularly true for wok cooking when the cooking itself is fast and furious. The following tips will help to make your Thai cooking really good, easy and incredibly quick.

Before You Start Cooking

Finding the Sweet, Sour, Salty, Spicy Flavour Balance

Balancing and harmonizing the four key flavours is the secret to obtaining those wonderful flavours characteristic of Thai food. The intensity of flavour is very much a matter of personal preference and you can use larger or smaller amounts of the four ingredients depending on how intense you want the overall flavour to be, but no one flavour should over-power another. Just as you might vary the amount of chilli, garlic or ginger in Indian dishes according to the taste and tolerance of the diner, you can vary the amount of the key flavouring ingredients in Thai dishes so that the intensity of flavour feels right to you. However, Thai food should never taste dull and there should be enough of each of the four flavours to create a lively symphony of flavour on your tastebuds.

It is also important to be aware that recipes for Thai dishes are, to some extent, guides only, because flavours of many ingredients such as fish sauce, limes and lemongrass will vary according to the season, where they come from and how old they are. Taste testing, therefore, is absolutely essential. Flavours of fish and soy sauce also vary from one brand to another so finding a brand that you like and sticking to it will help give you some consistency.

Extra fish sauce, soy sauce, sliced chilli and lime wedges should be served with the meal, much like salt and pepper, to cater for individual tastes.

Tips for Taste Testing and Balancing

  • Too spicy hot. Add more fish sauce and lime juice to counter the heat and balance with a little sugar.

  • Too salty. Add lime juice, lemon juice or tamarind paste dissolved in a little water and balance with a touch of sugar.

  • Too sour. Add palm sugar or any sugar you have and balance with a little fish or soy sauce.

  • Not spicy enough. Add fresh chillies, chilli powder, cayenne, ground pepper or chilli sauce.

  • Not salty enough. Add fish sauce or soy sauce in preference to salt for a better depth of flavour.

  • Not sour enough. Add lime or lemon juice or tamarind paste dissolved in a little water. Balance with some sugar if needed.

  • Remember you can always add some coconut milk or cream to tone down the flavours too.

Experiment by making some sauce with a little stock or coconut milk and adding chilli, garlic, fish sauce, lime juice and sugar one at a time, tasting the sauce before adding the next key ingredient to experience the impact of each on the overall flavour.

Tips for Great Stir-Frying

Prior preparation is the holy grail of great stir-frying, followed very closely by a really hot, well seasoned wok or frying pan. Stir-fries are cooked at high heat and super speed, a method of cooking that makes the food taste fresh and delicious and keeps the nutrients intact.

 

7

THAI CURRY PASTES

Thai curry pastes are a mix of aromatic fresh herbs, chillies and spices that combine to create an explosion of intense, complex and delicious flavours. These pastes are the basis of all types of Thai curries, many stir-fries and some noodle dishes. Each paste has different characteristics and colouring and its own unique taste, even though many of the primary ingredients are the same. Seemingly minor changes to the basic ingredients and the method of preparation produce an array of different colours and varied and delicious flavours.

Curry pastes keep well in the fridge for up to a week and can be frozen for six months, so by preparing some when you have time you can make delicious Thai curries in minutes whenever you wish. If you decide to freeze your home-made curry paste, a useful tip is to divide it into one tablespoon portions so that you can take out just as much as you need. Ice-cube trays are great for this purpose.

Red Curry Paste is a hot paste, the red colouring being derived entirely from hot, dried red chillies. It is a versatile paste used to flavour a range of curries, soups and stir-fries.

Green Curry Paste is thought to be (in Thailand) the hottest of all Thai curry pastes, its green colouring coming from fresh herbs and a generous quantity of hot green chillies. Yo u can use the larger, milder chillies if you don’t want so much heat. Green curry is perhaps the most unique to Thailand as it is very different from the curries of other countries. This paste is used exclusively for green Thai curries.

Yellow Curry Paste has a mellow spicy-sweet flavour and produces curry that is similar in colour and taste to Indian curries. The yellow colour is due to the use of turmeric. This mild paste is used with or without coconut milk and is traditionally used to make chicken and potato or fish curries.

Panang Curry Paste is based on red curry paste but contains more Indian style spices. Panang curry is traditionally cooked with meat only – no vegetables are used – and with just enough coconut milk to cover. The resulting curry is quite dry, unlike red or green curry which has much more sauce, but is very flavoursome.

Massaman Curry Paste is based largely on dried spices not typical of Thai cuisine. Its origins are in the deep south of Thailand on the border of Malaysia so it is significantly influenced by the local Malaysian cuisine. Beef or lamb is the traditional meat for this curry but it is also good with chicken. Massaman curry is very aromatic but comparatively mild as the heat is mellowed by the coconut cream, onions and potatoes.

Jazzing up Shop Bought Pastes

Home-made curry pastes are hard to beat for flavour and aroma but you can buy ready made pastes from Asian grocers and supermarkets. If you choose to buy a commercially made curry paste, note the list of ingredients on the label and add whatever is missing in the ready made preparation when you use it. I also add some fresh ingredients like extra garlic, coriander root and lime peel as the wonderful aromas and flavours of these ingredients are generally minimal in these pastes.

Other Pastes and Sauces

There are several tasty Thai pastes and sauces used as flavourings or dipping sauces. Below are some of the most popular.

Roast Chilli Paste nahm prik pow, or ‘roasted chilli paste’, is not a curry paste but a flavouring agent commonly used in Thai cooking. It is used to flavour soups, stir-fries and noodle dishes and is also fantastic as a dipping sauce or as an addition to dressings for Thai salads. As the name implies, the main ingredient is dried red chillies roasted over hot charcoal until a deep, dark red. Against the smoky, fragrant base of pungent roasted flavours the paste bursts with a complex mix of sweet, salty, spicy and tangy flavours that complement a range of Thai dishes.

Peanut Sauce is a firm favourite in Thailand, and, unlike most western recipes which use commercially prepared peanut butter, it is made with freshly roasted peanuts ground and combined with other tasty ingredients. And you can taste the difference. It is used not just for making satays but also as a tasty dipping sauce for meat, seafood and vegetables.

Pad Thai Sauce is a delicious and potent mix of tangy, spicy and sweet flavours. A good sauce is essential for making great Pad Thai.

Thai Sweet Chilli Sauce has a distinctive flavour and is excellent as a dip for lots of different dishes.

 

8

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

Both metric and imperial measurements have been given in this book with the imperial measures being rounded up or down to the nearest unit. Remember to use one or the other and not to combine imperial and metric measurements in one recipe.

All spoon measurements throughout the book are slightly rounded spoonfuls unless specified as being level.

Fluid ounces refer to the British fluid ounce which is slightly smaller than the US equivalent. This difference is not significant for the recipes in this book.

Cup size is the metric cup (250 ml) or half a US pint.

Some conversions are given in the table below:

Measure

UK

USA

Australia

Teaspoon

5 ml

4.93 ml

5 ml

Dessertspoon

10 ml

10 ml

Tablespoon

15 ml

14.79 ml

20 ml

Cup

285 ml

236.59 ml

250 ml (metric up)

Fluid oz

28.41 ml

29.57 ml

1 litre

2.2 pints

2.1 pints