The tide is turning. Organics is moving from the hemp-shirt-wearing fringe to centre stage as concerns grow about GM foods, farm chemicals and land degradation. This is a Good Thing and we heartily encourage it, but a few words of warning: be careful of ‘greenwashing’, the disingenuous use of environmental credentials to make a company look like it’s doing the right thing. ‘Organic’ water makes us both chuckle and mad. And watch out for the small asterisk next to the large ‘Organic’ label – you may find the fine print says the farm is ‘in conversion’. But when it comes to food, freshness and flavour are still important, so don’t feel guilty about buying ‘conventional’ vegetables just because they lack organic certification. Like all produce, it’s a question of farming practices, so ask about the grower to get a feel for whether they’re doing the right thing.
Two places we thoroughly recommend investigating are the Organic Food Directory (www.organicfooddirectory.com.au) and, for wine drinkers, Max Allen’s biodynamic vineyard website Red, White and Green (www.redwhiteandgreen.com.au).
About Life
This store is what we hope will become the supermarket of the future. About Life works on a whole lifestyle philosophy: there’s everything from organic fruit and veg to naturopathy consultations, a fully stocked homeopathic dispensary, well-stocked grocery aisles, and a cafe too. Brands like Duchy and Hampstead iced teas in flavours such as Oolong Elderflower and Darjeeling Cherry will grab the most sophisticated eye, but there are also bargains and regular specials, as well as great value takeaway gourmet meals (which serve four people for $20). And for those with food sensitivities, there’s a ‘gluten-free floor plan’ so you know exactly where to look. Also at: 605 Darling Street, Rozelle, 8755 1333.
BONDI JUNCTION
31–37 Oxford Street • 9389 7611
Mon–Fri 7am–8pm; Sat–Sun 7am–7pm
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Cleavers
You have to specialise in the butchering world, says owner Robert Nicholson, ‘otherwise the supermarkets take it from under you’. But Robert says the only-organics angle of Cleavers is also ‘all about health’. The other thing this large wholesale business has over the supermarkets, he says, is that he is buying directly from the farmers, so you know what you are getting. Cleavers makes its own sausages, including the noteworthy turkey and wild cranberry, and the pork, honey and fennel. The beef is all grass fed and the chickens are Enviroganic and Inglewood. There is organic stock and baby food, as well as organic turkey at Christmas.
NEUTRAL BAY
Shop 6, The Grove, 174–176 Military Road
8969 6982
Mon–Fri 6am–6pm; Sat 6am–5pm
Map INNER NORTH
Dynamic Organics
This strictly certified-organic home delivery service has been going strong for more than a decade, and for the past year has been under the direction of new owners, Lin and Clive Park. Lin’s devotion to organics stems from growing up on an apple orchard in Tasmania, and seeing her father’s health deteriorate after using harmful insecticides. Expect seasonal fruit and vegetables from the Sydney Markets, plus farm-direct Fitzroy Falls potatoes, Champion’s Mountain Organics greens, as well as organic dairy products, sourdough bread, dried fruits, nuts and meats. The service allows lots of flexibility, from ordering products à la carte to requesting hand-picked variety boxes based on price or dietary requirements.
BROOKVALE
9 Powells Road • 9905 5553
Order online; pick-up by appointment
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Granny Smith Natural Food Market
Tucked away in a small strip of shops in leafy Turramurra is this organic haven. Owner Peter Kenyon sources his products locally, so much so that he keeps his own bees. Not all their products are strictly organic, but the philosophy when stocking the shop is ‘to eat better’, so they source the best local suppliers who provide the best quality produce. The tomatoes are heirloom from Sorbello, meat is from Cleavers, cream and yoghurt from Barambah Organics, and the breads are from La Tartine and Sonoma. Not to mention their delicious raw honey – we’ve been known to go through a whole jar in a single week!
TURRAMURRA
6 Princes Street • 9988 3787
Mon–Wed & Fri 9am–5.30pm;
Thurs 9am–7pm; Sat 8am–4pm
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Earth Food Store
This much-hyped (mostly) organics shop is a lovely space to shop, although some of the produce on display during our visit looks somewhat worse for wear: pockmarked pears, bruised bananas and browning broccoli are from the old-school of organics, where the appearance of produce was secondary to its provenance. Happily, there is much to compensate for the disappointments. Mushrooms and onions look spanking fresh, prices aren’t exorbitant and everything is charmingly displayed in baskets and buckets. There’s an open kitchen where chefs prepare food for the tiny chandelier-lit cafe next door, and fridges full of quality dairy. An online delivery service is in the pipeline.
BONDI
81A Gould Street • 9365 5098
www.earthfoodstore.com.au
Mon–Sat 7am–7pm; Sun 7am–6.30pm
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Green Tucker Store
It’s not easy being green – unless you live near this suburban store, which stocks everything from fresh organic fruit and vegies to fair trade washing liquid. Owner Anke Pharo has stacked the pine shelves with all the pulses, condiments, oils and vinegars, tinned foods, free-range eggs, juices, coffee and tea you need. The number of gluten- and lactose-free products is growing and the frozen goods section is expanding – look out for frozen vegetables, Byron Gourmet Pies and Eco-Organic ice-cream. Members can save money with a 10 per cent discount, and anyone can save the environment by purchasing clear jars and bags for refilling.
FORESTVILLE
51 Arthur Street • 9453 1133
Mon–Fri 9.30am–6pm; Sat 10am–2pm
Map NORTHERN SUBURBS
The Health Emporium
With a reputation for having the best fresh organic produce in Sydney, The Health Emporium certainly delivers on quality – there are crisp carrots, rosy apples and crunchy-looking capsicums. The trade-off is the price: on the day we visit, cauliflowers are $9 each, as are bunches of celery. Still, if you’re prepared to pay, you could do all your organics shopping here. There are Cleavers organic meats and poultry, plenty of dairy and some refrigerated packaged items including Pasta Emilia pasta and sauce. Browse the aisles, too, for cereal, nuts, grains, and domestic goods such as shampoo, moisturiser and vitamins. The cafe looks good too.
BONDI
263–265 Bondi Road • 9365 6008
Mon–Fri 8.30am–7pm; Sat–Sun 8.30am–6pm
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Lettuce Deliver Organics
Organic fruit and vegetables used to have a reputation for being grubby and ugly-looking, say Cheryl Stuart and her daughter Emma of their niche. But it’s an increasingly health-conscious and environmentally aware public that this well-established home delivery service caters to. The Lettuce Deliver pair deal directly with their growers and producers, such as Angus and Sonya Dowling who own and operate Enviroganic Farm and supply organic chickens and turkeys. Profiles of other suppliers are now up on the Lettuce Deliver website, which also offers weekly updates on seasonal produce and what’s arrived from various producers.
HOMEBUSH
Warehouse 8, 177 Arthur Street • 9763 7337
Honest to Goodness
Matt and Karen Ward open the shopfront itself for only a few hours a week, but you can pick up their bargains on nuts and dried fruit, Honest to Goodness’ own cereals and trail mixes at several growers’ markets in Sydney. Other specials are available online, including massive reductions on 5-kilo bags of all sorts of organic dried fruit (sulphur dioxide free). Dates are popular now, as is dried pineapple, which customers either eat straight up or dehydrate and use in baking. There’s no chocolate per se, which is way too naughty for these quarters, but this is the place for carob and cacao seeds, either whole or powdered. Get things delivered or pick up during the limited opening hours.
ARTARMON
Unit 5, 6–8 George Place • 9420 3761
Tues & Fri 2–4pm
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Naturally Organic
Matt Walker took over this organic butcher shop in early 2010, but there’s still all the favourite organic produce. Sausages, virtually all gluten free, include the lamb, honey and rosemary, and the chicken and spinach. The beef is sourced from Landtasia Organic Farms, the chicken is Inglewood and the whole shop is certified by Australian Certified Organic. The rolled roasts are all popular, but try the rolled chicken with prosciutto, mango and pine nuts. Not all produce is organic, so check the labels or ask to find out which is which, and what’s good today.
NEUTRAL BAY
Shop 14, Big Bear Shopping Centre,
116 Military Road • 9904 3333
Mon–Fri 7am–6.30pm; Sat–Sun 7am–5pm
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The Organic Meat and Poultry Shop
‘Every piece of meat that comes into my store has to be certified organic and has to have a quality difference,’ says Junxiang (Jackson) Ding. ‘That’s because this meat has a much, much better flavour, and it’s good for you, especially for kids.’ It’s fair to say Jackson is enthusiastic about his wares, as he should be. He stocks an extensive range of quality organic or free-range meat, from Bangalow Sweet Pork to rump steak mince and organic duck, and chicken wontons made by his wife, Judy. He also sells hard-to-procure organic turkeys – available year-round – plus chickens, rissoles, sausages and offal.
RANDWICK
Shop 15, Randwick Plaza, 130 Belmore Road
9399 7555
Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 8am–5pm;
Sun 10am–5pm
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Pasta Emilia
The only product pasta-maker Anna Maria Eoclidi uses that’s not organic is her parmesan. Imported from Italy, it’s such a good non-organic product that she hasn’t been able to make the switch to a cheese that would make all of her products fully certified organic. Not to worry though, everything else on offer here is the best of its kind from certified farms or producers that Anna Maria knows personally. And the quality shows in all her pastas, which are handmade onsite. Try the radicchio and ricotta tortelli or the organic Australian beef ravioli, perhaps with a tomato and basil sauce.
BRONTE
129 Macpherson Street • 9386 1516
Mon–Fri 9.30am–6pm; Sat 10am–5.30pm
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Origin of Energy
We’d like to keep this place a secret, but simply couldn’t. Yes, it’s a gym – but no ordinary gym. We can rave on all day about the progressive, holistic philosophies of trainers and owners Alana Mann, Aaron McKenzie and Gus Rickard, but this is a book about food. Their vision of creating a healthier community sees their fridges packed full of organic Pasture Perfect pork, Taralga Springs beef and Malone lamb. Cuts are prepared by Dominic O’Neil of G. R. U. B. – untrimmed, of course, of essential good fats. Here we’re talking Real Food! Be sure to pop in for the ‘meal of the day’ and experience these super foods, slow cooked and nurturing.
BONDI JUNCTION
Tiffany Plaza, Shop 12/422 Oxford Street
0404 225 060
Mon–Fri 6am–8pm; Sat 6am–10.30am
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Sam the Butcher
Not everything on offer at Sam the Butcher is organic, but a lot of it is – and proudly so. Butcher Sam Diasinos takes organics seriously, stating that he believes organic meat to be better for the environment, the health and the soul. His products range from Australian organic beef and lamb to free-range pork and poultry plus a wide range of game meats, from wild boar to crocodile. Be careful, though, to select carefully, as unmarked products are often not organic. He also carries a range of upmarket groceries, from European butter to exotic spice mixes and rock salts.
BONDI
129 Bondi Road • 9389 1420
Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; Sat 8am–4pm;
Sun 8am–3pm
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Summer Hill Organic Fruit Market
This barn-like address looks like it’s been taken straight from a film set. High wood-panelled ceilings, fans, lime green and orange walls and hanging plants – all very rustic country chic. Owners Helen and Jim Papadopoulos opened the store in 1993 as a normal grocer but then decided to go all out with the organic. ‘Why are we selling things we wouldn’t eat?’ they asked themselves at the time. Now the range of organic and biodynamic flours is one of the most extensive around, including Egyptian gold, spelt, soy, barley, tapioca and coconut.
You’ll also find ice-cream, soy beans, four types of eggs, couscous, various spreads, nuts and cereals – all organic, of course.
SUMMER HILL
162 Old Canterbury Road,
(cnr Carrington Street) • 9799 3258
Tues–Sat 8am–5.30pm
Map INNER WEST
Vegan’s Choice Grocery
Colin Fung is a ground-breaker; when he first starting serving tofu in the early ’80s hardly anyone knew what it was. Now his Green Gourmet Restaurant and adjoining vegan grocery shop are major destinations for punters of all dietary persuasions. Come to Vegan’s Choice to stock up on life’s vegan essentials: Tofutti soy cream cheese, Lamyong vegetarian duck, soy sauce, pickled burdock, tahini and even vegan lollies. They sell goods such as yerba maté tea and organic chocolate too, as well as a selection of fresh vegan cupcakes, biscuits and pies.
NEWTOWN
113 King Street • 9519 7646
Mon–Sat 11.30am–8pm; Sun 11.30–7pm
Map INNER SOUTH
TJ’s Quality Meats
Locals love Tony Jenkins’ butchery. Sadly, his is the only one left in Balmain, where once there was virtually a butcher’s store on each corner. His was the first butcher’s store in Sydney to gain Demeter certification – a worldwide system used to verify if a food has been produced by biodynamic methods – and that was back in 2001. All his meats are sourced from biodynamic farms: Bangalow pork, Mandagery Creek venison, Gundooee Organics wagyu, four brands of organic chickens, smallgoods from the Eumundi Smokehouse, biodynamic lamb and beef from Oberon, and organic beef from Greenham in Tasmania. He also stocks a great range of organic eggs and gluten-free sausages.
BALMAIN
319 Darling Street • 9810 2911
Mon–Fri 7am–7pm; Sat 7am–4.30pm
Map INNER SOUTH
Wholefoods House
It could hardly be contested that this place has one of the best ranges of fresh organic fruits and vegetables in Sydney. Sourced from organic markets and directly from organic growers, their produce gleams. Crisp lettuces sit alongside crunchy radishes, and Chinese veg such as tatsoi stand upright beside seasonal kale. In the fruit bins, granny smith apples are fresh and juicy, while bananas and citrus are reasonably priced. Elsewhere, freezer items include Pastabilities and Pasta Emilia pasta meals; there’s own-brand rice, pulses and seeds; plus bulk nuts, grains, vitamins, health soaps, cereals and more. Also at: 3/9 Danks Street, Waterloo, 9319 4459.
WOOLLAHRA
109 Queen Street • 9363 9879
Mon–Fri 8.30am–7.30pm;
Sat 8.30am–6.30pm; Sun 9am–6pm
Map BONDI REGION