GLOSSARY

Awling	Technique used in pattern-cutting for measuring around the circumference of one pattern onto another.
Backstitch	Type of hand stitching where one side of the stitching bites into leather’s surface, and the other sits flat on the panel. Useful when soft material may be cut by the thread.
Belly	Stretchable part of cowhide that is generally unsatisfactory for constructing leather goods.
Bevelling	The removal of the sharp 90° angles from the sides of leather edges prior to the burnishing process.
Buckstitch	Type of thonging that leaves a twisted diamond-style loop visible on one side of the leather.
Built-up work	Term for items made from thin leather (skiver) or rexine, stuck to card or board; e.g. jewellery boxes, attaché cases.
Burnishing	The process of consolidating hairy cut-leather edges by applying an edge-finishing solution and rubbing vigorously with a cloth or an edge-burnishing wheel.
Butt	High quality part of cowhide.
Butt stitch	A type of hand stitching where pieces of leather are butted against one another and saddle-stitched across to effect a join.
Carving	The cutting of leather’s grain surface to produce a decorative design.
Casing leather	Dampening of leather prior to carving or stamping.
Chrome-tanned leather	Leather whose surface has been stained and sealed, so as to prevent the ingress of water or dyes; unsuitable for stamping or carving.
Creasing	The imprinting of a dark line on grain’s surface at a predetermined distance from the edge, for decorative effect and to compress loosened edge fibres.
Cut-edge work	Where leather is joined, flesh-side to flesh-side, and the cut edges burnished and stained to match main surface areas.
Cutting-patterns	Thick card pattern produced for cutting leather or other material to exactly the same size.
Drystick	Method of gluing, whereby adhesive is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry before bringing them together.
Edge bevelling	As bevelling.
Edge-finishing	Encompasses bevelling and burnishing.
Faced-edge work	Where two turned-over-edges are stitched together.
Flesh side	Underside (hairy side) of leather panel.
Full grain	Top surface of leather that has not been buffed.
Grain side	The top (shiny) surface of leather panel.
Gusset	The sides and base of a handbag.
Heavy leather goods	Items made from thick vegetable-tanned leather, e.g. heavy leather belts, robust handbags.
Lacing	The process of joining leather pieces by means of long strips of leather, applied to form a decorative pattern around edges. Otherwise known as thonging.
Light leather goods	Items made from thin, often chrome-tanned, leather, e.g. wallets, purses and soft leather handbags.
Making-patterns	Paper patterns made as a first stage to clarify dimensions; they do not take into account seam allowances.
Paring	Reducing the thickness of part of the leather (flesh side), either along an edge or where a proposed fold necessitates this; otherwise known as skiving.
Pricking out	Marking the position of stiches with a pricking iron or stitch-marking wheel, prior to hand stitching.
Running stitch	Type of thonging (or lacing) where thonging is visible as loops one either side of the assembled article.
Saddle stitch	The most usual type of hand stiching, utilizing a needle on both ends of a length of thread.
Side	Half of a cowhide.
Skin	Leather derived from an animal other than a cow.
Skiving	Reducing leather thickness; otherwise known as paring (see paring for more details).
Splitting	Reducing the thickness of an entire panel of leather.
Stamping	Making decorative impressions on leather’s grain side, using hand-held stamping tools and a rawhide hammer.
Thonging	Alternative word for lacing (see above).
Tooling	General term for decorating leather surface, encompassing carving and stamping.
Turned work	When panels are sewn together with grain sides facing, then the whole item turned inside out.
Turned-over-edge work	When the edges of the body panel are skived, then turned over the gusset edge and all the leather thicknesses stitched through.
Undercutting	Caused when the swivel knife is not held at a 90° angle and slices sideways.
Vegetable-tanned leather	Hide that has been treated with oils and preservatives, but whose surface is receptive to dyes and will absorb water; suitable for carving and stamping.
Wetstick	Type of gluing where the adhesive is applied to one or both surfaces, which are then brought together while it is still wet.
Whip stitch	Straightforward, simplistic type of thonging stitch.