Ancient Textiles · Production, Crafts and Society by Nosch, Marie-Louise,Gillis, C. -- Read -- Imperial Library of Trantor

Index

Title Page Copyright Page Table of Contents Introduction PART 1 INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILES: BACKGROUND, STUDIES AND APPLICATION

1 Methodological Introduction

Notes

2 The World According to Textiles

Introduction The Construction of Knowledge Experimental Archaeology Inductive and Deductive Reasoning Textile Archaeology and Theory Mons Claudianus The World According to Textiles Textiles in Academia Notes

3 The Academic Craftsman–A Discussion on Knowledge of Craft in Textile Research

Notes

PART 2 PRODUCTION AND ORGANIZATION

4 Textile Tools and Production during the Viking Age

Introduction The Uses of and Needs for Textiles and Raw Materials Tools and Techniques The Organization of Textile Manufacturing The Results Summary Notes

5 Spinning and Weaving at Tell Mardikh-Ebla (Syria): Some Observations on Spindle-Whorls and Loom-Weights from the Bronze and Iron Ages

Introduction Spindle-whorls Loom-weights Conclusion Notes

6 Textile Industry and Minoan Palaces

Introduction Raw Material Production and Collection Raw Material Processing Raw Material Distribution Textile Manufacture Textile Distribution and Consumption Conclusions Acknowledgements Notes

7 Flax and Linen Textiles in the Mycenaean Palatial Economy

Designations for Flax and Linen: Metrological Problems Linen Textiles in the Mycenaean Texts: Overview Specialised Workers in the Linen Cloth Industry Acknowledgements Notes

8 Cloth Production in Late Bronze Age Greece: the Documentary Evidence

Notes

9 Washing and Dyeing Installations of the Ancient Mediterranean: towards a Definition from Roman Times back to Minoan Crete

Introduction Definition of a Working Area and Main Characteristics of Washing and Dyeing Installations Towards a Model: Analyzing the Best-known Ancient Washing and Dyeing Contexts Exporting the Model: Looking for Washing and Dyeing Installations on Minoan Crete Conclusions Acknowledgements Notes

10 The Kingdom of Midas and Royal Cloth Production

Notes

11 Textile Production in Proto-historic Italy: from Specialists to Workshops

Notes

12 Textiles from the 1st Century CE in Jerusalem–a Preliminary Report

Introduction–the Akeldama Area Reconstruction Multi-disciplinary Research Summary and Conclusions Acknowledgements Notes

13 Artifacts Related to Preparation of Wool and Textile Processing Found Inside the Terrace Houses of Ephesus, Turkey

Weaving Sewing and Spinning Bridging Archaeological Finds and Social Life Notes

14 ‘Dyeing’ in Ancient Italy? Evidence for the purpurarii

Acknowledgements Notes

15 Local Cloth Production in Medieval Turku, Finland

Introduction Domestic or Professionally Produced Cloths? Imported or Locally Produced Textiles? Notes

16 Woolen Textiles in Archaeological Finds and Descriptions in Written Sources of the 14th to 18th Centuries

Sites and Contexts of Finds Varieties of Woven Cloth Trade Names in Guild Rolls Pattern Cards from the 17th and 18th Centuries 18th-century Cloths and Worsteds Summary and Conclusion Notes

PART 3 CRAFT AND TECHNOLOGY

17 ‘Translating’ Archaeological Textiles

Cross-disciplinary Work on Archaeological Textiles: Archaeology and Natural Science Microscopy Common in Textile Research X-ray Pictures Digital Cameras and Techniques Cross-disciplinary Work between Archaeology and Crafts Determining Original Weaving Methods and Making Reproductions for Exhibitions Making Reconstructions Determining Unlikely Weaving Methods Determining the Purpose of Tools The Demand for Further Cross-Disciplinary Work Conclusion Acknowledgements Notes

18 The Use of Wool for the Production of Strings, Ropes, Braided Mats, and Similar Fabrics

Ropes and Strings Beds, Stools and Chairs Sails(?) Notes

19 Under Canvas

Introduction Medieval and Younger Sources Criss-cross Patterned Sails on Picture Stones and Coins Criss-cross Patterned Sails in the Mediterranean Identification of Sail Remnants Notes

20 Similarities and Distinctions of Minoan and Mycenaean Textiles

Notes

21 Re-considering Alum on the Linear B Tablets

Introduction What is Alum? What is Alum Used For? tu-ru-pte-ri-ja on the Pylos Tablets ku-pi-ri-jo and a-ta-ro Where was Alum-Stone Found? What was Alum Used For? Notes

22 Late Roman and Byzantine Linen Tunics in the Louvre Museum

Notes

23 Looped-Pile Textiles in the Benaki Museum (Athens)

Comparative Study Notes

24 A Medieval Georgian Textile in the Benaki Museum (Athens): the Sakkos of the Antiochene Patriarch with Georgian Embroidery

Notes

25 The Llangorse Textile: Approaches to Understanding an Early Medieval Masterpiece

Conservation and Recording by Louise Mumford Embroidered Interpretation of Llangorse Textile, by Julie Taylor Woven Interpretation of Llangorse Textile, by Heather Prosser Conclusions Notes

26 A Study of Textile Remains from the 5th Century BC Discovered in Kalyvia, Attica

Archaeological Background The Textile The Selvedge The Fibers The Dyes Conclusion Notes

27 Ancient Textile Evidence in Soil Structures at the Agora Excavations in Athens, Greece

5th-Century BCE Paint Palette Cover 11th-Century CE Infant Burial 5th-Century BCE Pyre Deposit Mycenaean Alabastron, 1400 BCE Notes

PART 4 SOCIETY

28 Weaving the Social Fabric

Notes

29 Invisible Exports in Aratta: Enmerkar and the Three Tasks

The Location of Aratta and the Environment of the Hilmand Basin Shahr-i Sokhta Vegetable Fiber samples Enmerkar’s Net Notes

30 Textile Production at Pseira: the Knotted Net

Notes

31 Weaving at Akrotiri, Thera: Defining Cloth-Making Activities as Social Process in a Late Bronze Age Aegean Town

Notes

32 Can a Textile Tradition Survive? The rebozo in a Changing Society

History and Shape Ikat and Serpent Emblem and Woman Notes

33 Political Affinities and Economic Fluctuations: the Evidence from Textiles

Introduction The Site of Qasr Ibrim Methodology Study 1 Study 2 Study 3 Conclusion Notes

34 Clothing Patterns as Constructs of the Human Mind: Establishment and Continuity

Origins of Mental Constructs Patterns in Cloth and Clothing Example of Rectangular Cloth Piece Patterns Patterns Based on Animal Skins Clothing Based on Semi-circular, Square or Rectangular Patterns Conclusions Notes

35 Picturae in textili on Shoulder Busts in Hellenistic Sicily?

Notes

36 Spinning in the Roman World: from Everyday Craft to Metaphor of Destiny

Spinning between Craft and Symbolism Spinning and Stratification of its Symbolism in Classical Society and Art Spinning Tools in Roman Funerary Art and Rituals Conclusions Abbreviations Notes

37 Wool Work as a Gender Symbol in Ancient Rome. Roman Textiles and Ancient Sources

The Symbolic Role of Wool in Roman Wedding Ceremonies Wool Work as a Symbol of Femininity Roman State Ideology and the Value of Wool Work Summary Notes

38 Christian Influences and Symbols of Power in Textiles from Viking Age Denmark. Christian Influence from the Continent

Iconographic Examples Christian Influence from the East Iconographic Examples Literary Evidence of Christian Influence in Dress from the Viking Age The Christianization of Denmark Conclusion Notes

APPENDIX: FIRST AID FOR THE EXCAVATION OF ARCHAEOLOGICAL TEXTILES - Guidelines for the Excavation of Archaeological Textiles Use of a Digital Camera for Documentation of Textiles List of contributors General Bibliography

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