[Gutenberg 45747] • Climbing on the Himalaya and Other Mountain Ranges

After a book has been written, delivered to the publisher, and the proofs corrected, the author fondly imagines that little or no more is expected of him. All he has to do is to wait. In due time his child will be introduced to the world, and perhaps an enthusiastic public, by judicious comments on the virtues of the youngster, will make the parent proud of his offspring.

Before, however, this much-desired event can take place, custom demands that a preface, or an introduction of the aforesaid youngster to polite society, must be written. Unfortunately also the parent has to compile a list or index of the various items of his progeny's belongings that are of interest; so that nothing be left undone that may be of service to the young fellow, what time he makes his bow before a critical audience. In books on travel, nowadays, it is customary often somewhat to scamp this necessary duty, and, after a few remarks in the preface, on subjects not always of absorbing interest, to conclude with the hope that the reader will be as interested in the description of places he has never seen as the author has been in writing about them.

Of course, formerly these matters were better managed. In the 'Epistle Dedicatorie,' the author would at once begin with:—'To the most Noble Earle'—then with many apologies, all in the best English and most perfect taste, he, under the patronage of the aforesaid Noble Earle, would launch his venture on to the wide seas of publicity, or perhaps growing bolder, would put forth his wares with some such phrases as the following:—'And now, oh most ingenuous reader! can you find narrated many adventures, both on the high mountains of the earth, and in far countries but little known to the vulgar. Here are landscapes brought home, and so faithfully wrought, that you must confess, none but the best engravers could work them. Here, too, may'st thou find described diverse parts of thine own native land.'

'Choose that which pleaseth thee best. Not to detain thee longer, farewell; and when thou hast considered thy purchase, may'st thou say, that the price of it was but a charity to thyself, so not ill spent.'

J. N. C.

16 Campden Grove, London, 24th March 1902

GENERAL HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING IN THE HIMALAYA

'Let him spend his time no more at home, Which would be great impeachment to his age In having known no travel in his youth.'

Shakespeare.

At some future date, how many years hence who can tell? all the wild places on the earth will have been explored. The Cape to Cairo railway will have brought the various sources of the Nile within a few days' travel of England; the endless fields of barren ice that surround the poles will have yielded up their secrets; whilst the vast and trackless fastnesses of that stupendous range of mountains which eclipses all others,

CONTENTS

General History of Mountaineering in the Himalaya

Our Journey out to Nanga Parbat

The Rupal Nullah

First Journey to Diamirai Nullah and the Diamirai Pass

Second Journey to Diamirai Nullah and Ascent to 21,000 feet

Ascent of the Diamirai Peak

Attempt to ascend Nanga Parbat

The Indus Valley and Third Journey to Diamirai Nullah

The Canadian Rocky Mountains

The Alps

The Lofoten Islands

A Chuilionn

The Mountains of Ireland

Prehistoric Climbing near Wastdale Head

A Reverie

The Oromaniacal Quest

Fragment from a Lost MS.

Notes on the Himalayan Mountains

ILLUSTRATIONS

A Stormy Sunset,

A Himalayan Camp,

A Himalayan Nullah

The Diamirai Pass from the Red Pass,

The Mazeno Peaks from the Red Pass,

The Diamirai Peak from the Red Pass,

View of the Diamirai Peak from the Red Pass,

On