Nîmes • Pont du Gard • Uzès
Although Avignon lacks Roman monuments of its own, some of Europe’s greatest Roman sights are an easy, breezy day trip away. (To get the most out of these sights, read “The Romans in Provence” on here before you visit.) The Pont du Gard aqueduct is a magnificent structure to experience, as is the city it served 2,000 years ago, Nîmes, which wraps a handful of intriguing Roman monuments and a grand new Roman World Museum in a mellow, bigger-city package. The pedestrian-friendly town of Uzès, between Nîmes and Pont du Gard, is a refreshing break from power monuments and busy cities. Combining these three sights makes a memorable (if busy) day trip into the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Traveling by car, you’ll drive scenic roads between Uzès and Nîmes that show off the rugged garrigue landscape that has made this region famous.
Consider getting away from the tourists and spending the night in classy Nîmes or cozy Uzès; both beat Avignon for quick and easy access to Pont du Gard. If you’re on a tight schedule, this region’s sights are doable as day trips from Avignon, even without a car. Avignon to Pont du Gard is a 30-minute drive; it’s 45 minutes to Uzès, and 45 minutes to Nîmes. Car-less day-trippers from Avignon have these options:
Minivan Tour: Several reliable companies run day trips from Avignon to Pont du Gard, Uzès, and other popular destinations (see here). For example, Visit Provence Tours offers a package that includes Nimes, Uzès, and Pont du Gard for about €70 per person (www.provence-reservation.com). Avignon’s TI can suggest other options.
Bus, Train, and/or Taxi: With few buses connecting Avignon with Pont du Gard and Uzès, plan carefully—particularly off-season when weekend service all but vanishes (generally 5/day Mon-Fri, 3/day Sat-Sun). Check schedules at Avignon’s bus station (see here), at a TI, or at www.edgard-transport.fr. Arrive at bus stops at least five minutes early, pay the driver (coins or small bills), and verify your stop and direction with the driver.
Buses take around 40-60 minutes from Avignon or Nîmes to Pont du Gard; almost hourly trains take 30 minutes to connect Avignon and Nîmes. Allow €60 and 30 minutes for a one-way taxi ride from Avignon or Nîmes to Pont du Gard.
Here are three day-trip plans to consider. The best morning buses usually depart Avignon for Pont du Gard at about 8:45 and 11:40. Double-check all departure times before you set out.
Day Trip to Pont du Gard Only: Take a morning bus from Avignon’s bus station to Pont du Gard, tour the site, then hop on an afternoon bus back to Avignon. For more flexibility, catch a cab from Avignon, then ride the bus back.
Day Trip to Pont du Gard and Nîmes: Take the first bus from Avignon to Pont du Gard, tour the site, then take an early-afternoon bus to Nîmes for more sightseeing. Return by train to Avignon.
Day Trip to Pont du Gard and Uzès: Take the first bus from Avignon to Pont du Gard, tour the site, then catch a midday bus to Uzès and stroll the town. Catch the late-afternoon bus back to Avignon.
Most travelers make time in their schedules for Arles and Avignon, but ignore Nîmes. Arles and Avignon may have more popular appeal, but Nîmes—which feels richer and surer of itself—is refreshingly lacking in overnight tourists. This thriving town of classy shops and serious businesses is studded with world-class Roman monuments and laced with traffic-free lanes. (And if you’ve visited the magnificent Pont du Gard, you must be curious where all that water went.)
Since the Middle Ages, Nîmes has exported a famous fabric: The word “denim” actually comes from here (de Nîmes = “from Nîmes”). Denim caught on in the United States in the 1800s, when a Bavarian immigrant, Levi Strauss, popularized its use in the American West.
Today, Nîmes is officially in the Languedoc-Roussillon region (for administrative purposes), yet historically the town has been a key player in the evolution of Provence. Only 30 minutes by train or car from Arles or Avignon, and three hours from Paris on the TGV, Nîmes is easy to reach. The city keeps its clean and tranquil old center a secret for its well-heeled residents. (Locals admit they don’t need the tourism money as much as other Provençal towns.) While most visitors understandably prefer sleeping in Arles or Avignon, a night here provides a less touristic taste of this corner of France.
Nîmes (“neem”) has no river or natural landmark to navigate by, so it’s easy to become disoriented. For a quick visit, limit yourself to the manageable triangle within the ring of roads formed by boulevards Victor Hugo, Amiral Courbet, and Gambetta.
The town’s landmarks are connected by 10-minute walks: It’s 10 minutes from the train station to the arena and Roman World Museum, 10 minutes from the arena to the Roman temple of Maison Carrée, and 10 minutes from Maison Carrée to either the Castellum or the Fountain Garden. Apart from seeing a handful of museums and ancient monuments, appreciate the city’s traffic-free old center—a delight for browsing, strolling, sipping coffee, and people-watching.
The TI is across the street from the arena (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-18:00, shorter hours Oct-March, 6 Boulevard des Arènes, tel. 04 66 58 38 00, www.nimes-tourisme.com). Pick up the English-language pamphlet, which includes a map with a description of the city’s sights and museums and a worthwhile Old City walk, and ask about sight-seeing passes.
By Train and Bus: The stations for trains and buses are adjacent (handy if you’re combining Pont du Gard with Nîmes). There’s baggage storage nearby (see “Helpful Hints,” later). Confirm return schedules before leaving the station (beware of gaps in train service to Arles).
The bus station and bus information office are out the rear of the train station. Find the yellow Edgard sign a block straight out the station’s back door (Mon-Fri 8:00-18:45, Sat until 12:00, closed Sun, www.edgard-transport.fr). Buses you care about use stalls 8 to 15 (coming from the train station, the shelters are to the right). Confirm your destination and pay the driver (about €2 one-way to Pont du Gard, use small bills or coins).
The ancient Roman arena is a pleasant 10-minute walk out the front of the train station (see the “Nîmes” map). Head up the pedestrian parkway, go left at the big plaza, curve right, and you’ll see the arena (to find its entrance, walk counterclockwise around it). To reach the TI, walk clockwise around the arena. The Maison Carrée is a lovely stroll from the arena through Nîmes’ traffic-free Old City.
By Car: The A-54 autoroute provides the easiest access to Nîmes. You can follow signs for Centre-Ville and TI, then Arènes Parking, and pay to park underneath the arena, or use Nîmes’ efficient park-and-ride scheme. Simply leave A-54 at Nîmes-Centre exit #1 and follow signs to Caissargues Tram Bus T1 P&R (a few seconds from the off-ramp). There you can park for free and hop tram-bus T1 directly to the center (Arènes), see “Helpful Hints,” next, for details.
Summer Thursdays: The “Jeudi de Nîmes” (Thursdays of Nîmes) tradition turns the entire old center of town into a festival of shops, street music, and liveliness on Thursday nights in July and August from 18:00 until late.
Sightseeing Pass: The €17 Nîmes Culture Pass covers the arena, Maison Carrée, Magne Tower, and the Roman World Museum—a deal even if you just visit the arena and museum. If you’re also visiting Orange, consider the €18.50 pass that covers the arena, Maison Carrée, and the Orange Roman Theater (buy online, at the TI, or at sights, www.arenes-nimes.com).
Baggage Storage: The Hôtel Abalone stores bags. It’s to your right as you exit the train station (daily 8:00-22:00, 23 Avenue Feuchères, tel. 04 66 29 20 14).
Laundry: A launderette is near my recommended hotels at 1 Rue des Fourbisseurs (daily 7:00-21:00).
Taxi: Call 04 66 29 40 11 for a cab. It’s about €60 to Pont du Gard.
Car Rental: Very near the station, you’ll find Avis (tel. 04 34 14 80 15), Europcar (tel. 04 66 29 07 94), and Hertz (tel. 04 66 76 25 91).
Public Transit: Only one transit route matters here: the sleek tram-bus T1 which circles through the town center (€1.60, buy ticket from machines or pay driver, runs every 7 minutes from the P&R Caissargues park-and-ride lot and stops near the arena, Maison Carrée, and Les Halles).
Local Guide: Delightful Sylvie Pagnard’s walking tours are top quality. She also does regional tours (€145/3 hours, €360/8 hours, extra if she drives, tel. 04 66 20 33 14, mobile 06 03 21 37 33, sylviepagnard@gmail.com).
Tourist Train: Nîmes’ petit train leaves from the arena for a 45-minute circuit of town with recorded English commentary (€8, daily, leaves nearly hourly 10:00-18:00, off-season 11:00-17:00, no trains Nov-March).
View Café: Ride the glass elevator to the recommended, top-floor Restaurant Café Ciel de Nîmes at the Museum of Contemporary Art for a great view over the ancient Maison Carrée and a quiet break.
(See “Nimes” map.)
I’ve described Nîmes’ best sights below in a logical order for a good daylong visit, and have linked them with walking directions. You’ll get your historic bearings next door to the arena at the...
This decades-long project opened in 2018, finally giving the city a museum to match its fine ancient ruins. The state-of-the-art building has a grassy rooftop terrace and a public lane passing through it to an archeological park out back. Its airy design is meant to counter the heaviness of the ancient arena it faces. With the help of high-tech interactive stations, it shows off 5,000 artifacts from Roman Nîmes (plus a few from pre-Roman and medieval times). A forte is its rich collection of Latin-inscribed stones and mosaics—some of which were discovered when digging the garage for the site (€8, free first Sun of the month, covered by Nîmes Culture Pass; daily 10:00-19:00, until 20:00 July-Aug, until 18:00 in winter; Boulevard des Arènes, tel. 04 48 21 02 20, www.museedelaromanite.fr).
• Next to the museum is the...
Nîmes’ arena dates from about AD 100 and is more than 425 feet in diameter and 65 feet tall. Considered the best-preserved arena of the Roman world, it’s a superb example of Roman engineering. The 24,000 seats could be filled and emptied in minutes (through 60 passageways called vomitoires). The games that were held here were free and designed to keep the populace entertained...and distracted from other concerns. Since 1850, Nîmes’ arena has been a venue for entertainment, including bullfights and rock concerts featuring musical gladiators from Sting to Santana.
Cost and Hours: €10, includes the necessary audioguide, covered by Nîmes Culture Pass; daily July-Aug 9:00-20:00, until 19:00 in June, until 18:30 April-May and Sept; closes earlier Oct-March. Eager visitors can rent (and share) a €5 iPad that gives lots more detail and fun imagery. Tel. 04 66 21 82 56, www.arenes-nimes.com.
Visiting the Arena: You’ll find helpful information panels in English as you tour the arena; these combine with the excellent audioguide or tablet tour to give a thorough and enjoyable history lesson. Don’t miss the panels describing the different types of gladiators.
Climb to the very top. This is a rare opportunity to enjoy the view from a surviving high point—the nosebleed seats—of a Roman arena. An amphitheater is literally a double theater: two theaters facing each other, designed so that twice the people could view a Dirty Harry spectacle—without the acoustics provided by the back wall of a theater stage. (You may think of this as a “colosseum,” but that’s not a generic term. Rome’s Colosseum was a one-of-a-kind arena—named for a colossal statue of Nero that stood nearby.)
As at the arena in Arles and other Roman arenas, the floor here would have been covered in sand (to absorb blood). Underground were tunnels and rooms for storage. An elevator raised angry animals to the floor level to do battle with gladiators.
After Rome fell, the arena was bricked up and made into a fortress (as in Arles). In the 13th century, after the region was incorporated into France, the arena became a gated community housing about 700 people—with streets, plumbing, and even gardens on the top level. Only in 1809 did Napoleon decide to scrape away the dwellings and make this a historic monument, thus letting the ancient grandeur of Roman Gaul shine.
The two exhibits included in your visit are small side-by-side “multimedia” rooms on the ground floor with puny offerings: one for bullfighting and the other for gladiators. To get the most out of these rooms, look for the audioguide numbers before entering the exhibits.
Bullfighting in the Arena Exhibit: Couleurs des Corridas (Room V104) shows the thrilling Camargue bullgames in action, as well as a serious Spanish-style bullfight. Three-minute video clips on small monitors are worth watching. La Course Camarquaise (center screen) shows the crazy local “bullfight” where daredevil young men get chased into the seats by famous nimble bulls. On the right screen, a video shows bulls and horses on ranches in the Camargue “from herd to arena.”
Gladiators in the Arena Exhibit: The Quartier des Gladiateurs (gladiators’ locker room, Room V106) is a kid-friendly look at gladiator life. Monitors show the Hollywood-created image of gladiators.
• From the arena, enter Nîmes’ Old City.
Those coming to Nîmes only for its famous Roman sights are enchanted by its carefully preserved old center. Here, you can study how elements from medieval and Renaissance times artfully survive in the buildings: Shop interiors incorporate medieval brick with stone arches, windows expose Gothic finery, and Renaissance staircases grace peaceful courtyards.
• With your back to the arena’s ticket office, angle right to follow Rue des Arènes one block into...
With an inviting café ambience, including a wispy palm-tree-and-crocodile fountain (Nîmes’ emblem in Roman times—see sidebar), this fine square is ideal for lunch or a coffee break. Facing the fountain, the recommended Courtois Café/Pâtisserie is the class act of the square—check out its old-time interior. Marie Manuelle can explain how it’s been in her family since 1892. If you have a sweet tooth, let the sweet women here serve you the house specialty, a chocolate-dipped nélusko; it’s like a cross between a cake and a cookie, and the oldest recipe of the house. Or try a Nîmes specialty, caladon—literally “cobble,” like on the street—a hard honey-and-almond cookie.
• Leave the square, passing the croc on your right (on Rue des Broquiers), then turn left on Rue de l’Aspic, the town’s primary shopping spine. Follow Rue de l’Aspic straight past lots of shops several blocks to Place de l’Horloge (with its freestanding bell tower of the city government), marking the center of the Old City. From here pedestrian-friendly streets fan out in all directions, including directly to Maison Carrée. We’ll take unsigned Rue de la Madeleine, the first street to the right as you enter Place de l’Horloge, to the...
This inviting square is the site of Nîmes’ oldest market. At the center of the Old City, it’s a good hub for a bit of sightseeing and café lounging. The next three sights are on or near this square.
Nîmes Cathedral: While its Romanesque facade survives from the 12th century, the cathedral’s interior—gutted over centuries of dynastic squabbles, Reformation, and Revolution—is unremarkable Neo-Romanesque, mostly from the 19th century.
Museum of Old Nîmes: Turn left as you leave the cathedral to see this humble museum inhabiting a 17th-century bishop’s palace. You’ll get a sense of how the bishop lived; see a room of fine, carved hutches (delicately carved with reliefs illustrating Bible stories); exquisite textile and silk work, and learn the story of indigo, 19th-century denim wear, and early Levi’s. You’ll even see a 200-year-old denim jacket (€5, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon). A free English booklet describes the museum in general, but, sadly, exhibit information is in French only.
Old-Time Spice Shop: L’Huilerie is a charming time warp displaying spices and herbs, oils, and candy (Tue-Sun 9:00-12:30 & 14:30-19:00, closed Mon; 50 yards from the church, down the small lane by Le Petit Moka café, at 10 Rue des Marchands).
• With your back to the church door, leave the square at the far right corner and go one block down Rue des Halles. Across Rue Général Perrier on the left is the big, modern black-and-green market hall. Enter under the glassy facade a half block to your left.
Les Halles Centre Commercial looks black and ugly on the outside, but inside its ground floor is a thriving, colorful market, well worth exploring (Tue-Sun until 13:00, closed Mon). Mug shots of all the merchants hang in the aisles at each stand, making it fun to greet merchants by name. Within the market, Halles Auberge is a cheap and characteristic lunch-only spot (in the far left corner, see “Eating in Nîmes” for specific recommendations). Crèmerie de la Rue des Greffes is every local’s favorite for Chantilly and strawberries (mid-market on the far right).
If it’s hot, and/or you need to shop, walk straight through the produce market and into the air-conditioned Coupole shopping mall, where you’ll find a FNAC department store and lots of mod French stores.
• Leaving the market, take a right on Rue Général Perrier. On the corner opposite the market hall is Souleiado, a festival of fashion with dresses, shirts, scarves, and more all made locally of Provençal fabrics (Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, closed Sun, 3 Rue Guizot). Then walk several blocks to the...
This stunning temple rivals Rome’s Pantheon as the most complete and splendid building that survives from the Roman Empire. Admire the original columns and Corinthian capitals. The temple survived in part because it’s been in constant use for the last thousand years—as a church, a City Hall, a private stable, an archive during the Revolution, a people’s art gallery after the Revolution (like Paris’ Louvre), and finally as the monument you visit today. It’s a textbook example of a pseudo-peripteral temple (surrounded by columns, half of which support the roof over a porch, and half of which merely decorate the rest of the building) and a “six-column temple” (a standard proportion—if it’s six columns wide, it must be eleven columns deep).
The lettering across the front is long gone, but the tiny surviving “nail holes” presented archaeologists with a fun challenge: Assuming each letter would leave a particular series of nail holes as evidence, derive the words. Archaeologists agree: This temple was built to honor Caius and Lucius, the grandsons of Emperor Augustus. And from this information, they date the temple to the year AD 4.
Maison Carrée (“Square House”—named before they had a word for “rectangle”) was the centerpiece of a fancy colonnaded plaza surrounded by a U-shaped commercial, political, and religious forum. This marked the core of Roman Nîmes. As was the case in all Roman temples, only the priest went inside. Worshippers gathered for religious rituals at the foot of the steps. Climb the steps as a priest would—starting and ending with your right foot...dexter (from the Latin for “right”) rather than sinister (“left”). Put your right foot forward for good karma.
Inside, the cheesy Nemausus—The Birth of Nîmes movie tells the story of Nîmes...it’s like watching a 25-minute TV dramatization (€6, covered by Nîmes Culture Pass, every 30 minutes, daily July-Aug 9:30-20:00, April-June and Sept 10:00-18:30, March and Oct until 18:00, shorter hours Nov-Feb, soundtrack in Latin and French with English subtitles).
Nearby: The modern building facing the temple is Nîmes’ Carré d’Art (“Square of Art”), designed by British architect Lord Norman Foster. It’s home to the city’s Museum of Contemporary Art (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, WCs, recommended view café).
• Next, facing the Museum of Contemporary Art, turn right and walk up the busy Boulevard Daudet one block to a statue of a Roman emperor. Emperor Antoninus Pius (who ruled after Hadrian in the second century AD, and whose mother was from Nîmes) seems to be enjoying a view of the canals leading to the ancient spring. Step across the street for a fine canal view. The force of the little waterfall gives an indication of the water gushing into town from the spring. Walk along the left side of the tree-lined canal until you reach the grand gate to the grand...
Centuries before the Romans arrived in Nîmes, the Spring of Nemo was here (named, like the town itself, for a Celtic god). Rather than bulldoze the Nemo temple, the Romans built a shrine to Emperor Augustus around it and welcomed Nemo into their own pantheon (as was their “the-more-gods-the-merrier” tradition). Today, the spring remains, though the temple is gone.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 7:30-22:00, March and Sept until 20:00, Oct-Feb until 18:30.
Visiting the Garden: Walk into the center of the Fountain Garden to the statue of the goddess of the spring, which is sitting atop the ancient temple of Augustus. You can see the ancient stones and a band of carved reliefs down by the spring’s water.
In the early 1700s, Nîmes needed a reliable source of water for its textile industry—to power its mills and provide water for the indigo dyes for the fabric serge de Nîmes (denim). About 1735, the city began a project to route a canal from this ancient spring through the city, and excavated clues to its ancient past. The city eventually agreed to fund a grander project that resulted in what you see today: a lavish Versailles-type park, complete with an ornate network of canals and boulevards. It was finished just 50 years after the construction of Versailles, and to the French, this place has a special significance: These were the first grand gardens not meant for a king, but for the public. The industrial canals built then still wind throughout the city.
• Hiding behind trees in the back-left corner of Fountain Garden, find the...
This first-century “temple,” which modern archaeologists now believe was more likely a Roman library, has long been considered one of the best surviving examples of ancient stonework. Its roof—a round Roman barrel vault laced together with still-visible metal pegs (find the panel with a drawing of the temple before entering)—survived until it was hit by a blast in the 1500s, during the Catholic-Protestant Wars of Religion.
Cost and Hours: Free; same hours as Fountain Garden.
Visiting the Temple: As you explore the ruins, notice the graffiti carved artfully into the stones. It’s actually part of the temple’s story. For centuries, France had a highly esteemed guild of stone-, metal-, and woodworkers called the Compagnons, founded by Gothic-church builders in the Middle Ages. As part of their ritualistic training, these craftsmen would visit many buildings—including the great structures of antiquity (such as this one)—for inspiration. Walk through the side aisle (right side) for a close look at the razor-accurate stonework and the 17th-, 18th-, and 19th-century signatures of the Compagnon craftsmen inspired by this building. Notice how their signatures match their era—no-nonsense “Enlightened” chiseling of the 18th century gives way to ornate script in the Romantic 19th century.
Overlooking the garden, capping the hill high above, is the ancient Magne Tower. Originally a Celtic lookout (450 BC), it was built grander by the Romans and is arguably the oldest structure in the city. While you could hike up there (€3.50, covered by Nîmes Culture Pass), and climb the tight spiral staircase 140 steps to the tiny lookout at the top for a commanding view, if you’re tired, you could also just have a coffee at the inviting café adjacent to the Temple of Diana.
• From the Temple of Diana, the next (worthwhile) sight is a 10-minute walk away. Angle back across the park, turning left at the canal (Quai de la Fontaine). You’re walking back to the statue of the emperor but on the other side of the canal. If the old guys are out playing pétanque, drop in and observe. (This is a popular way to spend your retirement in France.) Halfway to the end, notice that one of the trees that line the canal is actually a carving of a diving nymph (Nemausa) with her legs gracefully fluttering up in the sky. When you reach the emperor, continue straight another block. Just after the tiny park, turn left onto tiny Rue Ménard. Follow it uphill for three blocks, then head right on Rue d’Albenas, which ends at the...
This small excavation site, sitting next to the street, is free and always open. It’s the end of the grand, 30-mile-long Nîmes aqueduct made famous by the Pont du Gard. Two thousand years ago this modest-looking water tank distributed the water brought in by the aqueduct to the hot and thirsty city of Nîmes.
Discovered in the 1850s, this is one of only two known Roman distribution tanks (the other is in Pompeii). The water needs of Roman Nîmes had grown beyond the capacity of its local springs and an aqueduct was needed to bring water in from farther afield. Imagine the jubilation on the day (in AD 50) that this system was finally operational. Suddenly, the town had an abundance of water—for basic needs as well as for cool extras like public fountains.
Notice the square hole marking the end of the aqueduct, a pool, a lower water channel, and the water-distribution holes. The lower channel, which runs under you, served top-priority needs, providing water via stone and lead pipes to the public wells that graced neighborhood squares. The higher holes—which got wet only when the supply was plentiful—routed water to the homes of the wealthy, to public baths, and to nonessential fountains. (For more on this impressive example of Roman engineering, see the “Pont du Gard” section, later.)
Hotels in Nîmes are a terrific value.
$ Hôtel de l’Amphithéâtre*** is ideally located on a pedestrian street a spear’s toss from the arena. Run by gracious Ghislaine and Marcus, this is a top Nîmes value, with quiet, spacious, and sharp rooms (no elevator, 4 Rue des Arènes, tel. 04 66 67 28 51, www.hoteldelamphitheatre.com, contact@hoteldelamphitheatre.com).
$ Hôtel des Tuileries** is a sure value, with helpful English hosts (Andrew and Caryn) and a central location 10 minutes on foot from the train station. Rooms are comfortable, large, and modern, and most have balconies (22 Rue de Roussy, tel. 04 66 21 31 15, www.hoteldestuileries.com, les-tuileries@wanadoo.fr).
¢ Hotel Ibis Budget,** behind the train station, gives modern, minimalist comfort for cheap (Avenue de la Méditerrannée, tel. 08 92 68 20 36, https://ibis.accorhotels.com, h7467@accor.com).
(See “Nimes” map.)
Enjoy the elegance of Nîmes by eating lunch in the market or on one of its charming squares. These cafés serve lunch but many close for dinner.
Les Halles Centre Commercial (described earlier) is a thriving, colorful market, well worth exploring (Tue-Sun until 13:00, closed Mon).
$ Halles Auberge, in the far-left corner, is a convivial lunch-only spot serving fresh French cuisine. While there are a few tables, the action is at the bar.
$ Rotisserie Thibaud (just to the right as you enter the market) is the domain of energetic Thibaud. He grills great burgers and for €5 will grill your fish or meat purchased from the market. He stays open after 13:00 if there are lingering diners.
Crèmerie de la Rue des Greffes (mid-market on the far right) is the traditional favorite for dessert to go—try the strawberries with Chantilly cream.
This square, beautifully situated in the shadow of the cathedral, boasts several popular bistros where you can lunch for €10. All close daily at 19:00 and all day on Sundays.
A block from the arena, this square is home to several worthwhile eateries. $ Courtois Café/Pâtisserie, with a fine €13 salade Nîmoise (local pâté, tapenade, and brandade) and trademark desserts (described under my self-guided walk) makes a good choice.
Filling a terrace atop the Museum of Contemporary Art, $$ Restaurant Café Ciel de Nîmes offers great views of the Roman temple (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Place de la Maison Carrée, tel. 04 66 36 71 70).
(See “Nimes” map.)
$$ Restaurant Le Vintage, a cool and contemporary wine bar/bistro, offers local cuisine and wines with an easygoing ambience inside or outside on a sweet little terrace. The cuisine is Provençal with an emphasis on salads in the summer (closed Sun, a few blocks up Rue Fresque from Place du Marché at 7 Rue de Bernis, tel. 04 66 21 04 45, www.restaurant-levintage-nimes.com).
$$$ Lisita, a dressy place a few steps from the arena, serves serious French cuisine and has a smart interior with modern art and terrific exterior seating. It feels formal and a bit pretentious (daily July-Aug, otherwise closed Sun-Mon, 2 Boulevard des Arènes, tel. 04 66 67 29 15, www.lelisita.com).
$$ L’Imprévu is a modern bistro serving traditional cuisine on a breezy square. It’s a popular place with locals and has fine terrace seating and a well-appointed interior with an open kitchen and friendly service (closed Tue-Wed, 6 Place d’Assas, tel. 04 66 38 99 59).
See “Arrival in Nîmes,” earlier, for train and bus station information.
From Nîmes by Train to: Arles (hourly, 30 minutes, beware of gaps in the afternoon), Avignon (hourly, 30 minutes), Aigues-Mortes in the Camargue (6/day Mon-Fri, 2/day Sat-Sun, 45 minutes), Carcassonne (8/day, 2.5 hours, transfer in Narbonne), Paris (10/day, 3 hours).
By Bus to: Uzès (#E52, 7/day Mon-Fri, 3/day Sat, 1/day Sun, 40 minutes, or slower #B21, 6/day Mon-Sat, 1/day Sun, 75 minutes), Pont du Gard (#B21, 6/day Mon-Fri, 4/day Sat, 2/day Sun, 40 minutes), Aigues-Mortes in the Camargue (6/day, 50 minutes), Arles (8/day Mon-Fri, 2/day Sat-Sun, 1 hour).
Throughout the ancient world, aqueducts were like flags of stone that heralded the greatness of Rome. A visit to this impressively preserved sight still works to proclaim the wonders of that age.
In the first century AD, the Romans built a 30-mile aqueduct that ran to Nîmes, one of ancient Europe’s largest cities. While most of it ran on or below the ground, at Pont du Gard the aqueduct spans a canyon on a massive bridge over the Gardon River—one of the most remarkable surviving Roman ruins anywhere. The aqueduct supported a small canal that dropped one inch for every 350 feet, supplying the city of Nîmes with nine million gallons of water per day (about 100 gallons per second).
Allow about a full four hours for visiting Pont du Gard (including transportation time from Avignon).
The famous aqueduct is between Remoulins and Vers-Pont du Gard on D-981, 17 miles from Nîmes and 13 miles from Avignon.
By Car: Pont du Gard is a 30-minute drive due west of Avignon (follow N-100 from Avignon, tracking signs to Nîmes and Remoulins, then Pont du Gard and Rive Gauche), and 45 minutes northwest of Arles (via Tarascon on D-6113). If going to Arles from Pont du Gard, follow signs to Nîmes (not Avignon), then D-6113, or faster A-54 (autoroute) to Arles.
By Bus: Buses run to Pont du Gard (on the Rive Gauche side) from Avignon (#A15, 5/day Mon-Fri, 3/day Sat-Sun, 1 hour), Nîmes, and Uzès. Combining Pont du Gard with Nîmes and/or Uzès makes a great day-trip excursion from Avignon and allows more bus options when leaving the Pont du Gard.
Buses stop at the traffic roundabout 400 yards from the museum (stop name: Rond Point Pont du Gard; see “Pont du Gard” map). If leaving by bus, make sure you’re waiting on the correct side of the traffic circle (stops have schedules posted), and wave your hand to signal the bus to stop for you—otherwise, it may drive on by. Buy your ticket when you get on and verify your destination with the driver.
By Taxi: From Avignon, it’s about €60 for a taxi to Pont du Gard (tel. 04 90 82 20 20). If you’re staying in Avignon and only want to see the Pont du Gard (and not Nîmes or Uzès), consider splurging on a taxi to the aqueduct in the morning, then take the early-afternoon bus back.
There are two riversides at Pont du Gard: the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) and Right Bank (Rive Droite). Park on the Rive Gauche (parking validated with ticket purchase), where you’ll find the museums, ticket booth, TI, cafeteria, WCs, and shops—all built into a modern plaza. A restaurant and ice-cream kiosk are on the Rive Droite side. You’ll see the aqueduct in two parts: first the informative museum complex, then the actual river gorge spanned by the ancient bridge.
Cost: €8.50 Discovery Pass includes access to the aqueduct, museum, film, and outdoor garrigue nature area; €11.50 Pass Aqueduct also includes a 30-minute tour through the top channel of the aqueduct—book online in advance, tour described later. Skip the €15.50 Pass Patrimoine—the museum tour is too long. Kids 6-17 pay €6 for any of the ticket options; kids under 6 are free.
Hours: Pont du Gard open daily May 9:00-21:00, June and Sept until 22:00; July-Aug until 23:00; Feb-April and Oct until 20:00, Nov-Jan until 18:00. Museum open daily April-June and Sept 9:00-19:00, July-Aug until 20:00, Oct-Nov and March until 18:00, Dec-Feb until 17:00.
Information: Tel. 04 66 37 50 99, www.pontdugard.fr.
Pont du Gard After Hours: During summer months, the site is open late so that people can hike, enjoy a picnic or the riverside restaurant, and watch the light show projected on the monument. The parking lot is staffed and guarded until 24:00, and after the museum closes you’ll pay only €5/person to enter (free for kids under 17). If you don’t care to see the museum, seeing Pont du Gard in the evening is dramatic (and cheap). The light show is projected from the north, so those in the picnic area and at the restaurant enjoy a good view.
Walking Tour Through Pont Du Gard: The 30-minute tour included in the Pass Aqueduct (described earlier) takes you through the 4-foot-wide, 6-foot-high, 900-foot-long water channel at the very top of the aqueduct, where you’ll walk the route of the water high above the river below. Guides range in quality from mediocre to excellent, provide commentary in French and English, and lead groups of up to 30 people. The massive calcium buildup lining the channel from more than 400 years of flowing water is impressive to see. Manhole-cover-like openings allow light in, though a flashlight is helpful to discern details.
Canoe Rental: Floating under Pont du Gard by canoe is an unforgettable experience. Collias Canoes will pick you up at Pont du Gard (or elsewhere, if prearranged) and shuttle you to the town of Collias. You’ll float down the river to the nearby town of Remoulins, where they’ll pick you up and take you back to Pont du Gard (€23, kids under 12-€12, usually 2 hours—though you can take as long as you like, reserve the day before in July-Aug, tel. 04 66 22 87 20, www.canoe-collias.com).
Plan Ahead for Swimming and Hiking: Pont du Gard is perhaps best enjoyed on your back and in the water—bring along a swimsuit and flip-flops for the rocks. (Local guides warn that the bridge can create whirlpools and be dangerous to swim under.) The best Pont du Gard viewpoints are up steep hills with uneven footing—bring good shoes, too.
In this state-of-the-art museum (well presented in English), you’ll enter to the sound of water and understand the critical role fresh water played in the Roman “art of living.” You’ll see copies of lead pipes, faucets, and siphons; walk through a mock rock quarry; and learn how they moved those huge rocks into place and how those massive arches were made. A wooden model shows how Roman engineers determined the proper slope. While actual artifacts from the aqueduct are few, the exhibit shows the immensity of the undertaking as well as the payoff. Imagine the jubilation when this extravagant supply of water finally tumbled into Nîmes. A relaxing highlight is the scenic video of a helicopter ride along the entire 30-mile course of the aqueduct, from its start at Uzès all the way to the Castellum in Nîmes.
Several additional attractions are designed to give the sight more meaning (but for most visitors, the museum is sufficient). Skip the 15-minute film showing aqueduct images with no captions or information (in the museum building). The nearby kids’ museum, called Ludo, offers a scratch-and-sniff teaching experience (in English) of various aspects of Roman life and the importance of water. The extensive outdoor garrigue natural area, closer to the aqueduct, features historic crops and landscapes of the Mediterranean.
A broad walkway from the museum complex leads in 10 minutes to the aqueduct. Until a few years ago, this was an actual road—adjacent to the aqueduct—that had spanned the river since 1743. Before crossing the bridge, walk to a terrific riverside viewpoint by continuing under the aqueduct on a stony path, then find two staircases about 50 yards apart leading down to an unobstructed view of the world’s second-highest standing Roman structure. (Rome’s Colosseum is only 6 feet taller.)
This was the biggest bridge in the whole 30-mile-long aqueduct. The arches are twice the width of standard aqueducts, and the main arch is the largest the Romans ever built—80 feet across (the width of the river). The bridge is about 160 feet high and was originally about 1,200 feet long.
Though the distance from the source (in Uzès, on the museum side of the site) to Nîmes was only 12 miles as the eagle flew, engineers chose the most economical route, winding and zigzagging 30 miles. The water made the trip in 24 hours with a drop of only 40 feet. Ninety percent of the aqueduct is on or under the ground, but a few river canyons like this required bridges. A stone lid hides a four-foot-wide, six-foot-tall chamber lined with waterproof mortar that carried the stream for more than 400 years. For 150 years, this system provided Nîmes with good drinking water. Expert as the Romans were, they miscalculated the backup caused by a downstream corner, and had to add the thin extra layer you can see just under the lid to make the channel deeper.
Walk back to the bridge and stand above the river. The bridge and the river below provide great fun for holiday-goers. While parents suntan on rocks, kids splash into the gorge from under the aqueduct. For the most refreshing view, float flat on your back underneath the structure (but beware of whirlpools, which can be dangerous).
The appearance of the entire gorge changed in 2002, when a huge flood flushed lots of greenery downstream. Those floodwaters put Roman provisions to the test. Notice the triangular-shaped buttresses at the lower level—designed to split and divert the force of any flood around the feet of the arches rather than into them. The 2002 floodwaters reached the top of those buttresses. Anxious park rangers winced at the sounds of trees crashing onto the ancient stones...but the arches stood strong.
The stones that jut out—giving the aqueduct a rough, unfinished appearance—supported the original scaffolding. The protuberances were left, rather than cut off, in anticipation of future repair needs. The lips under the arches supported wooden templates that allowed the stones in the round arches to rest on something until the all-important keystone was dropped into place. Each stone weighs from two to six tons. The structure stands with no mortar (except at the very top, where the water flowed)—taking full advantage of the innovative Roman arch, made strong by gravity.
Cross to the right bank for a closer look and the best views. Soon find steps leading up a short, steep trail (marked View Point/Bellevedere). You’ll come to the point where the aqueduct meets a rock tunnel, which was built in the 1800s to try to reuse the aqueduct and provide water to Nîmes (it failed). Notice how the aqueduct curves left before the tunnel. Follow the short-but-rugged trail with the river to your right to several superb lookouts above the aqueduct.
Back on the museum side, steps lead up to the top of the Rive Gauche side of the aqueduct, where tours meet to enter the water channel. From here you can follow the canal path along a trail (marked with red-and-white horizontal lines) to find remains of the Roman canal (spur trails off this path lead to more panoramic views). Hikers can continue along the path, following the red-and-white markings that lead through a forest, after which you’ll come across more remains of the canal (much of which are covered by vegetation). There’s not much left to see because of medieval cannibalization—frugal builders couldn’t resist the precut stones as they constructed area churches. The path continues for about 15 miles, but there’s little reason to go farther.
Located near the source of the spring that fed the Pont du Gard aqueduct, this intriguing, less-trampled town is officially in Languedoc-Roussillon, not Provence. Uzès (oo-zehs) feels like it must have been important once—and it was, as a bishopric from the fifth century until 1789. Today Uzès offers a refreshing small-town break from serious sightseeing. If you sleep here, try to arrive on a Tuesday or Friday night to enjoy the next morning’s market day.
Uzès is a short hop west of Pont du Gard. It can be reached easily by a €1.60 bus from Nîmes (Edgard buses #E52 and #B21, direction: Pont St-Esprit, #E52 is much faster, 7/day Mon-Fri, 3/day Sat, 1/day Sun, 40 minutes; #B21, 6/day Mon-Sat, 1/day Sun, 75 minutes), but less so from Avignon (Edgard bus #A15, direction: Alès, 5/day Mon-Fri, 3/day Sat-Sun, 80 minutes, stops near Pont du Gard). Check www.edgard-transport.fr or call 08 10 33 42 73 for schedules. The bus stop for Uzès is Esplanade.
By car, Uzès is 15 minutes from Pont du Gard and 45 minutes from Nîmes and Avignon. Drivers will circle the old town on the busy ring road. The TI and hotels that I list are on this ring road.
The TI sits at the top of the ring road on Place Albert I. Pick up the brief self-guided tour brochure in English, with a map of the town—usually available outside when the TI is closed (June-Sept Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00; shorter hours off-season and closed Sun; tel. 04 66 22 68 88, www.pays-uzes-tourisme.com).
The traffic-free, tastefully restored town itself is the sight. It’s best seen slowly on foot, with a lingering coffee break in its arcaded and mellow main square, Place aux Herbes (not so mellow during the colorful Wed morning market and even bigger all-day Sat market).
In spite of all those bishops, there are no important sights to visit in Uzès. You can follow the TI’s self-guided walking tour, but skip their sad app tour and avoid the dull, overpriced Palace of the Duché de Uzès (the courtyard view is free). The town’s trendy boutiques are as numerous as its English-speaking visitors, which give the place an upscale, international feel. The unusual circular tower called Tour Fenestrelle is all that remains of a 12th-century cathedral.
Even if you’re not a plant enthusiast, pop into the Medieval Garden, a “living herbarium” with plants thought to have curative qualities. The garden is at the foot of the King’s and Bishop’s towers. The entrance fee includes a little shot of lemongrass tea lovingly delivered by the volunteers who care for this sight (€6, July-Aug daily 10:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:00; off-season daily 14:00-18:00 plus Sat-Sun 10:30-12:30; closed Nov-March, English handout, tel. 04 66 22 38 21).
The Musée du Bonbon candy museum, a mile and a half below Uzès on the road to Avignon and Pont du Gard, explains the history and manufacturing process of Haribo (of Gummi Bears fame). It’s interactive and makes a worthwhile detour for the kids (adults-€7.50, kids 5-15-€5.50, kids under 5 free, daily July-Aug 9:30-19:30; Sept-June Tue-Sun 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Mon; last entry one hour before closing, tel. 04 66 22 74 39, www.museeharibo.fr).
Sleeping: Hotels in Uzès mirror the upscale flavor of the town. Pale-green signs direct drivers to hotels from the ring road.
$$$ La Maison d’Uzès,***** in the heart of the old town, is filled with modern luxury and nestled in the charm of a beautifully restored 17th-century building. In this boutique hotel, you’ll find sumptuous lounges, a gastronomic restaurant, a spa complete with a waterfall Roman bath, and nine well-designed rooms (elevator serves half the rooms, 18 Rue du Docteur Blanchard, tel. 04 66 20 07 00, www.lamaisonduzes.fr, contact@lamaisonduzes.fr).
$$ L’Hostellerie Provençale,*** a charming place with nine plush rooms and four chambres d’hôte, is just off the ring road, a few blocks after the TI. Breakfast and dinner can be served on their splendid rooftop terrace or downstairs in the cozy restaurant (pricey breakfast on terrace, breakfast included for the four B&B rooms, kitchenette, no elevator, pay parking, restaurant closed Sun-Mon, 1 Rue de la Grande Bourgade, tel. 04 66 22 11 06, www.hostellerieprovencale.com, contact@hostellerieprovencale.com).
Eating: When the weather cooperates, it’s hard to resist meals on Place aux Herbes, which is lined with appealing café options. $ Terroirs has inviting seats at one corner of the square and is ideal for enjoying Provençal tapas, tartines, or salads with a glass of local wine (daily, long hours, 5 Place aux Herbes, tel. 04 66 03 41 90).
$ Le Zanelli Italian, dishing up pizzas and more, is located on the most prized, tucked-away terrace in the center of Uzès. Leave Place aux Herbes through the passage between #17 and #19 (closed Tue, 3 Rue Nicolas Froment, tel. 04 66 03 01 93).
$$ Restaurant TEN, located one street north of Place aux Herbes, serves international cuisine in an appealing historic building. Choose between dining under the arcades outside, the trendy but appealing interior, or the peaceful interior courtyard (closed Mon-Tue, 10 Place Dampmartin, tel. 04 66 22 10 93).
To dine well indoors or high above the town on their rooftop terrace, find $$$ La Parenthèse restaurant (daily, fixed-price menu only) in the recommended L’Hostellerie Provençale.