Orange • Châteauneuf-du-Pape • Vaison-la-Romaine • Best of the Côtes du Rhône Villages • Côtes du Rhône Wine Road Drive • More Côtes du Rhône Drives
Orientation to Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Sleeping and Eating in Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Orientation to Vaison-la-Romaine
Best of the Côtes du Rhône Villages
Côtes du Rhône Wine Road Drive
Map: Côtes du Rhône Driving Tour
The sunny Côtes du Rhône wine road—one of France’s most engaging—starts at Avignon’s doorstep and winds north along a mountainous landscape carpeted with vines, studded with warm stone villages, and carpeted with fields of fragrant lavender, all presided over by the wind-scarred Mont Ventoux. The wines of the Côtes du Rhône (grown on the côtes, or hillsides, of the Rhône River valley) are easy on the palate and on your budget, as are the area’s good-value restaurants. But this hospitable area offers lots more than wine—its hill-capping villages inspire travel posters, its Roman ruins add historical perspective, and the locals seem as excited about their region as you are.
If you’re sleeping in this area, Vaison-la-Romaine is a handy home base. It offers reasonable bus connections with Avignon and Orange, bike rental, and a mini Pompeii in the town center. For more Roman ruins, visit the awe-inspiring Roman Theater in nearby Orange. To delve further into the region’s highlights, follow my driving tour of favorite wine villages, or side-trip to nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape. With more time, dig deeper into the Côtes du Rhône with a drive up Mont Ventoux, a spin around the Drôme Provençale, or a visit to the Ardèche Gorges (see the self-guided drives at the end of this chapter). Or pedal along peaceful roads to nearby towns. The vineyards’ centerpiece, the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains, are laced with hiking trails.
To explore this area, allow two nights for a decent dabble. Drivers should head for the hills (read this chapter’s self-guided driving tour before deciding where to stay). If you’re without wheels, Vaison-la-Romaine or Orange make the only practical home bases (or, maybe better, consider a minivan tour for this area).
By Car: Pick up Michelin maps #332 or #527. Landmarks like the Dentelles de Montmirail and Mont Ventoux help you get your bearings. I’ve described my favorite driving route in this region (“Côtes du Rhône Wine Road Drive”) near the end of this chapter, along with other drives, including one that connects the Côtes du Rhône with the Luberon region via a scenic saunter over Mont Ventoux.
By Bus: Orange is the transit hub in this area. From there, buses run regularly to Vaison-la-Romaine and Avignon Monday to Saturday, though for most, taking the train from Avignon to Orange and then the bus to Vaison-la-Romaine is best. A few buses also run from Orange to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and there’s only scant service between Orange and several of the wine villages described in this chapter (see “Orange Connections” for details). All routes provide scenic rides through this area. A useful website for figuring out your bus options is www.pacamobilite.fr; see also the Connections sections in this chapter.
By Train: Trains from Avignon (15/day, 20 minutes) will get you as far as Orange (and bus connections).
By Minivan Tour: There’s no shortage of people willing to take you for a ride through this marvelous region—so buyer beware. For my recommendations on wine-focused tours, more general tours, and private guides, see “Tours in Provence” on here.
Monday: Bédoin (intimate market, between Vaison-la-Romaine and Mont Ventoux)
Tuesday: Vaison-la-Romaine (great market with produce and antiques/flea market)
Wednesday: Malaucène (good and less touristy market with produce and antiques/flea market, near Vaison-la-Romaine), Buis-les-Barronies (on recommended loop drive north into the Drôme Provençale), and Sault (handy if you’re driving to the Luberon area)
Thursday: Orange (produce and local goods), Nyons (great market with produce and antiques/flea market), and Vacqueyras
Friday: Châteauneuf-du-Pape (small market) and Carpentras (big market)
Saturday: Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes, near Vaison-la-Romaine
Orange is notable for its grand Roman arch and exceptional Roman Theater. Called “Arausio” in Roman times, Orange was a thriving city in those days—strategically situated on the Via Agrippa, connecting the important Roman cities of Lyon and Arles. It was founded as a comfortable place for Roman army officers to enjoy their retirement. Did the emperor want thousands of well-trained, relatively young guys hanging around Rome? No way. What to do? “How about a nice place in the south of France...?”
Today’s Orange (oh-rahnzh) is a busy, workaday city with a gritty charm that reminds me of Arles. Leafy café-lined squares, a handful of traffic-free streets, a fine Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), and that theater all give the town some serious street appeal. For some, Orange works well as a base, with its quick access to the Côtes du Rhône wine villages by car (slower but OK by bus) and quick rail access to Avignon (which even drivers should consider).
The unnecessary TI is located next to the fountain and parking area at 5 Cours Aristide Briand (Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:00—no lunch break July-Aug, Sun 9:00-12:30; shorter hours and closed Sun Oct-March; tel. 04 90 34 70 88, www.orange-tourisme.fr).
Market Day: Thursday is market day, and it’s a big deal here, with all the town’s streets and squares crammed with produce and local goods for sale until 12:30. I like this market because it focuses on locals’ needs and not touristy kitsch.
By Train: Orange’s train station is a level 15-minute walk from the Roman Theater (or an €8 taxi ride, mobile 06 66 71 58 02). Sadly, there’s no bag storage in Orange. To walk into town from the station, head straight out of the station (down Avenue Frédéric Mistral), merge left onto Orange’s main shopping street (Rue de la République), then turn left on Rue Caristie; you’ll run into the Roman Theater’s massive stage wall.
By Bus: All buses stop at Cours Pourtoules, two blocks from the Roman Theater; the bus to Vaison-la-Romaine also stops at the train station.
By Car: Follow Centre-Ville signs, then Office du Tourisme or Théâtre Antique signs; park as close to the Roman Theater’s huge wall as you can. If coming from Avignon on D-907, park where you see Parking Théâtre signs; if coming from the autoroute, park near the TI on Cours Aristide Briand. If arriving on a Thursday morning—market day—expect lots of traffic and scarce parking; the road leading to the train station (15-minute walk to the theater) is your best bet. There’s lots of free parking by the Roman arch, a 10-minute walk from the town center (leave nothing visible in your car).
Orange’s ancient theater is the best preserved in existence, and the only such theater in Europe with its (awesome) acoustic wall still standing. Built in the first century AD, the huge theater celebrated the glory of the empire and cemented Rome’s presence in Provence.
Cost and Hours: €9.50, drops to €8.50 one hour before closing; ticket includes good audioguide (not available within an hour of closing) and entry to the small museum across the street; if visiting several ancient sites in Nîmes, consider the €18.50 Nîmes Culture Pass, which also covers the Roman arena and Maison Carrée, www.arenes-nimes.com; daily April-Sept 9:00-18:00, June-Aug until 19:00; Oct and March 9:30-17:30; Nov-Feb 9:30-16:30; closing times can change for evening performances or rehearsals, tel. 04 90 51 17 60, www.theatre-antique.com.
Video and Multimedia: In a passageway at the very top of the tiered seats, you’ll find a worthwhile 15-minute video history of the theater plus the amusing Ghosts of the Theater multimedia show, which covers four periods of performance history (including rock concerts).
Cheap Trick: Vagabonds wanting a partial but free view of the theater (or others wanting a view from above) can find it in the Parc de la Colline St-Eutrope. Walk around to the left of the theater (see map on here), and find the steps to the right, just after the tabac. Climb the steps, keep left at the first fork, and continue for a little over 100 yards, then take the steps to the right to the top. From here, follow the Point de Vue sign to the right. Benches and grassy areas make this a good picnic spot (no WCs), and you can scamper about for views of the theater from different angles.
Eating: The café in the theater, La Grotte d’Auguste, has reasonably priced snacks and lunches plus views (closed Sun-Mon, tel. 04 90 60 22 54). A shaded, café-filled square, Place de la République, is two blocks from the theater up Rue Segond-Weber.
Visiting the Theater: As you enter, to the right you’ll see a huge dig devoted to the Temple to the Cult of the Emperor (English explanations posted). But we’ll turn left, into the theater.
Climb the steep stairs to find a seat high up to appreciate the massive acoustical theater wall, one of the greatest surviving examples of Roman architecture. Contemplate the idea that 2,000 years ago, Orange residents enjoyed grand spectacles here, with high-tech sound and lighting effects—such as simulated thunder, lightning, and rain. If you’ve been to Arles’ Ancient History Museum, conjure up the theater model there and imagine this place covered with brilliant white marble.
From the center of the acoustic wall, a grandiose Caesar overlooks everything, reminding attendees of who’s in charge. If it seems like you’ve seen this statue before, you probably have. Countless identical sculptures were mass-produced in Rome and shipped throughout the empire to grace buildings like this for propaganda purposes. To save money on shipping and handling, only the heads of these statues were changed with each new ruler. The permanent body wears a breastplate emblazoned with the imperial griffon (body of a lion, head and wings of an eagle) that only the emperor could wear. When a new emperor came to power, new heads were made in Rome and shipped off throughout the empire to replace the pop-off heads on these statues. (Imagine Barack Obama’s head on George W. Bush’s body—on second thought...)
Archaeologists believe that a puny, vanquished Celt was included at the knee of the emperor, touching his ruler’s robe respectfully—a show of humble subservience to the emperor. It’s interesting to consider how an effective propaganda machine can con the masses into being impressed by their leader.
The horn has blown. It’s time to find your seat: row 2, number 30. Sitting down, you’re comforted by the “EQ GIII” carved into the seat (Equitas Gradus #3...three rows for the Equestrian order). You’re not comforted by the hard limestone bench (thinking it’ll probably last 2,000 years). The theater is filled with people. Thankfully, you mix only with your class, the nouveau riche—merchants, tradesmen, and city big shots. The people seated above you are the working class, and way up in the “chicken roost” section is the scum of the earth—slaves, beggars, prostitutes, and youth hostellers. Scanning the orchestra section (where the super-rich sit on real chairs), you notice the town dignitaries hosting some visiting VIPs.
OK, time to worship. Around the stage, they’re parading a bust of the emperor from its sacred home in the adjacent temple. Next is the ritual animal sacrifice called la pompa (so fancy, future generations will use that word for anything full of such...pomp). Finally, you settle in for an all-day series of spectacles and dramatic entertainment. All eyes are on the big stage door in the middle—where the Angelina Jolies and Brad Pitts of the day will appear. (Lesser actors use the side doors.)
The play is good, but many spectators are here for the halftime shows—jugglers, acrobats, and striptease dancers. In Roman times, the theater was a festival of immorality. An ancient writer commented, “The vanquished take their revenge on us by giving us their vices through the theater.”
With an audience of 10,000 and no amplification, acoustics were critical. A partial roof made of wood was originally suspended over the stage, somewhat like the glass and iron roof you see today (installed to protect the stage wall). The original was designed not to protect the stage from the weather, but to project the voices of the actors into the crowd (see if you can eavesdrop on people by the stage). For further help, actors wore masks with leather caricature mouths that functioned as megaphones. The theater’s side walls originally rose as high as the stage wall and supported a retractable awning (called a velarium) that gave the audience some protection from the sun or rain. (When you leave the theater, look up to the stage wall from the outside and notice the supports for poles that held the velarium in place, like the masts and sails of a ship.)
The Roman Theater was all part of the “give them bread and circuses” approach to winning the support of the masses. Its spectacles grew from 65 days of games per year when the theater was first built (and when Rome was at its height) to about 180 days each year by the time Rome finally fell.
In the fourth century (under Christian emperor Constantine), the church forced many theaters to close their doors, and eventually this one was abandoned and forgotten. The entire seating area filled up with sand—effectively preserving it.
Later, during the barbarian invasions, the stage wall became a protective wall, essentially creating a secure zone for many residences. Amazingly, people squatted here until the 19th century, when the theater was finally dug out—in nearly perfect condition.
Nearby: Pop into the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire across the street (included with ticket, free audioguide) to see a few theater details and a rare Roman land register, ordered by Emperor Vespasian in AD 79. Carved on marble, this was an official record of property ownership—each square represented a 120-acre plot of land. The fine mosaics and carvings displayed here humanize what are otherwise stony ancient ruins.
This 60-foot-tall arch is in the center of a pleasant traffic circle, a level 15-minute walk north of the theater. Technically the only real Roman arches of triumph are in Rome’s Forum, built to commemorate various emperors’ victories. But this arch was the model for those in Rome, preceding the famous arches of Septimius Severus and Constantine. It was erected in about AD 19 to commemorate the Roman general Germanicus and one of the bloodiest battles in the conquest of Gaul. The facade is covered with reliefs of military exploits, including naval battles and Romans beating up on barbarians and those rude, nasty Gauls. (Around the arch, you’ll find easy free parking and a picnic site.)
Orange owns a fine City Hall, worth the short detour to appreciate it (in the heart of the old town on Place Georges Clemenceau).
(See “Orange” map.)
Sleeping: $ Hôtel le Glacier,*** across from the TI, is run by English-speaking and affable Philippe. It’s a good value, with easy parking, a comfortable lobby with a bar, and well-designed rooms (book directly for a free upgrade when available, elevator, air-con, a few parking spaces, 46 Cours Aristide Briand, tel. 04 90 34 02 01, www.le-glacier.com, info@le-glacier.com).
Eating: Orange has several inviting squares with ample eating choices in all price ranges. A few cafés/restaurants are across from the theater. You’ll find more choices by wandering the lanes toward the Hôtel de Ville. For a more refined meal, $$$ Au Petit Patio delivers elegant dining and fine cuisine (closed Wed-Thu and Sun, 58 Cours Aristide Briand, tel. 04 90 29 69 27).
From Orange by Train to: Avignon (hourly, 20 minutes), Arles (4/day direct, 35 minutes, more frequent with transfer in Avignon), Lyon (16/day, 2 hours).
By Bus to: Vaison-la-Romaine (bus #4, 10/day Mon-Sat, 2/day Sun, 1 hour), Avignon (bus #2, 14/day Mon-Sat, 3/day Sun, 45 minutes), Châteauneuf-du-Pape (bus #23, 3/day Mon-Sat only, 20 minutes). For all bus service, check www.cars-lieutaud.fr or www.voyages-arnaud.com.
Buses to Vaison-la-Romaine and other wine villages depart from the train station and from Cours Pourtoules (see map on here). Because of occasional route changes, bus #4 to Vaison-la-Romaine may depart across from the bus shelter (look for blue bus icon or verify with any bus driver at the shelter).
This most famous of the Côtes du Rhône wine villages is busy with tourists eager to sample its famous product and stroll its climbing lanes. While I prefer the less-famous wine villages farther north (described later, under “The Best of the Côtes du Rhône Villages”), this welcoming, wine-drenched town makes an easy day trip from Avignon and works well with a visit to nearby Orange.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, meaning “New Castle of the Pope,” is named for the pope’s summer retreat—now a ruin capping the beautiful-to-see but little-to-do hill town (more interesting during the Friday market). Wine-loving popes planted the first vines here in the 1300s. The pope’s crest is embossed on all bottles of this deservedly famous wine.
Approaching from Avignon, signs announce, “Here start the vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.” Pull over and stroll into a vineyard with a view of the hill town. Notice the rocky soil—perfect for making a good wine grape. Those stones retain the sun’s heat (plentiful here) and force the vines to struggle, resulting in a lean grape—lousy for eating, but ideal for producing big wines (see “Côtes du Rhône Wines” on here). Eight different grapes are blended to make the local specialty, which has been strictly controlled for 80 years. Grenache dominates the blend, accounting for about 75 percent of the grapes grown. Syrah and mourvèdre are the next two most-used grapes, each contributing about 10 percent to the final blend. The most interesting white wines in Provence are also made here (a blend of up to five grapes), but the reds are what attract most visitors. Most reds show their full flavor five years after bottling. For more information on the area’s wines, look for the Wine Museum (described later) at the start of the village as you come from Avignon.
Arrival in Châteauneuf-du-Pape: If you’re coming by car, park below the hill town, then walk following Château signs a few blocks up to the main square, Place du Portail, with its small fountain.
Tourist Information: The helpful TI by Place du Portail has a long list of wineries you can visit and good documentation on the area (Mon-Sat 9:30-18:00, closed Sun—except July-Aug 9:30-12:30; off-season closed for lunch; 3 Rue de la République, tel. 04 90 83 71 08, www.chateauneuf-du-pape-tourisme.fr). Appealing streets fan out from here, most with cellars selling the famous wine.
Located at the Brotte Winery, this museum provides an excellent background for your Côtes du Rhône exploration. Use the audioguide for a 35-minute tour of the Côtes du Rhône exhibits, which explain the basics of grape-growing, the winemaking process, and the work of a vigneron, after which you’ll enjoy a tasting. The English-speaking staff is ready to help you make your choices, though it helps to tell them what you like. For a clear contrast, taste the “ready-to-drink” wine (La Fiole du Pape), which made the winery famous, then a wine “to keep” (vin de garde).
Cost and Hours: Free, daily April-Oct 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-19:00 (no lunch break June-mid-Sept), off-season 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, on Avenue Pierre de Luxembourg, at start of village if coming from Avignon, tel. 04 90 83 59 44, www.brotte.com.
The town offers countless places to taste wine, including these three cellars.
Near the TI: These two cellars are central. With your back to the TI, find (on your left) The Best Vintage cave, a top place to sample Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Speaking fluent English and offering wines from 35 different producers, Stéphane provides a good introduction to area wines in his small shop. He can arrange shipping back to the States—expensive but you’re spared the VAT tax (daily March-Oct 10:30-12:30 & 13:30-18:30, shorter hours Nov-Feb, near Place du Portail at 7 Rue de la République, tel. 04 90 83 31 75, www.thebestvintage.fr). A basic WC is next door.
A few doors farther down this street and up the staircase, find Vinadéa Maison des Vins, where they sell more than 200 kinds of Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation wines from 120 different producers and offer a free tasting selection every day. Thomas speaks English (daily June-Sept 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:30, shorter hours off-season, 8 Rue Maréchal Foch, tel. 04 90 83 70 69, www.vinadea.com).
Uphill from Place du Portail: Several blocks above Place du Portail is Cave du Verger des Papes, best suited for more serious tasters. Enter the glass door for tastings with friendly Claude-Richard and a look at underground ruins from Roman times (free, rotating selection of 3-4 wines, best to call ahead, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:30; 2 Rue Montée du Château, tel. 04 90 83 58 08, www.caveduverger.com).
To bed down in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, try the traditional $ Hôtel-Restaurant La Garbure, ideally located one door up the (mostly) pedestrian street from the TI (3 Rue Joseph Ducos, tel. 04 90 83 75 08, www.la-garbure.com).
You’ll find several appealing eateries around Place du Portail on Rue Joseph Ducos. $$ Le Pistou serves salads and menus from €15 (closed Sun evening and all day Mon, at #15, tel. 04 90 83 71 75). $$ La Maisouneta, at #7, is good for fresh pasta dishes (menus from €15, closed Tue evenings and all day Wed, tel. 04 90 32 55 03).
It’s well worth the time and energy to follow signs up the hill to $$$ Le Verger des Papes, a fine restaurant where you can feast both on the terrace views and on their traditional, sophisticated cuisine (their €22 lunch menu is a great deal if you’re hungry; closed all day Mon and Sun evenings; reservations smart, 4 Rue Montée du Château—drivers can follow Château signs and park at the top to skip the climb, tel. 04 90 83 50 40, www.vergerdespapes.com).
For picnic supplies, try one of the three cafés that surround the TI, all of which will make their sandwiches to go, or find the small grocery, Le Cigalou, halfway up Rue Joseph Ducos (Tue-Fri 8:00-12:30 & 15:30-19:30, Sat-Mon 8:00-12:30).
With quick access to vineyards, villages, and Mont Ventoux, this lively little town of 6,000 makes a good base for exploring the Côtes du Rhône region by car, by bike, or on foot. You get two villages for the price of one: Vaison-la-Romaine’s “modern” lower city has Roman ruins, a lone pedestrian street, and the lively, café-lined main square—Place Montfort. The car-free medieval hill town looms above, with meandering cobbled lanes, a handful of cafés and art galleries, and a ruined castle. (Vaison-la-Romaine is also a good place to have your hair done, since there are more than 20 hairdressers in this small town.)
The city is split in two by the Ouvèze River. A Roman-era bridge connects the lower town (Ville-Basse) with the hill-capping medieval upper town (Ville-Haute).
The TI is in the lower city, between the two Roman ruin sites, at Place du Chanoine Sautel (July-Aug Mon-Fri 9:00-18:45, Sat-Sun 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:45; Sept-June Mon-Sat 9:30-12:00 & 14:00-17:45, Sun 9:30-12:00—except closed Sun mid-Oct-March; tel. 04 90 36 02 11, www.vaison-ventoux-tourisme.com). Say bonjour to the charmante and ever-so-patient staff, use the free Wi-Fi, ask about festivals and other events, and pick up information on walks and bike rides.
By Bus: For most, taking the train from Avignon to Orange and then the bus to Vaison-la-Romaine is the best way to get here. Bus stops are near the Cave la Romaine winery on the edge of the lower town. Tell the driver you want the stop for the Office de Tourisme. When you get off the bus, walk five minutes down Avenue Général de Gaulle to reach the TI and recommended hotels.
By Car: Follow signs to Centre-Ville, then Office de Tourisme, and park in or near the big lot across from the TI. Parking is free in Vaison-la-Romaine. If your hotel is the upper town—Ville-Haute—see “Sleeping in Vaison-la-Romaine” later in this chapter.
Market Day: Sleep in Vaison-la-Romaine on Monday night, and you’ll wake to an amazing Tuesday market. If you spend a Monday night, ask your hotelier where you can park—avoid parking at market sites and where signs indicate Stationnement Interdit le Mardi, or you won’t find your car where you left it.
Laundry: The self-service Laverie la Lavandière is on Cours Taulignan, near Avenue Victor Hugo (daily 8:00-22:00, English instructions). The friendly owners, who work next door at the dry cleaners, will do your laundry while you sightsee (dry cleaners closed Sun).
Supermarket: A handy Casino is on Place Montfort in the thick of the cafés (Mon-Sat 7:30-13:00 & 15:30-19:30, Sun 9:00-13:00).
Bike Rental: The TI has a list. Sunebike is the most central, with electric and regular bikes (160 Avenue René Cassin, tel. 09 54 94 99 14, www.sun-e-bike.com). For help with bike rental and biking plans, contact John and Monique at the recommended L’Ecole Buissonnière Chambres (see listing under “Sleeping in Vaison-la-Romaine”).
Taxi: Call 04 90 36 00 04 or 04 90 46 89 42.
Car Rental: You can rent cars by the day, though they must be returned to Vaison-la-Romaine and supply is limited; ask at the TI for locations. Better yet, rent a car more dependably in nearby Orange, where most major companies have offices.
Local Guide: Scottish by birth and an attorney by profession, Janet Henderson offers enthusiastic and educational walks of Vaison-la-Romaine that bring those Roman ruins and medieval buildings to life (€30/person, minimum 3 people or €90, allow 2.5 hours, www.provencehistorytours.com, janet.henderson@wanadoo.fr).
Tourist Train: The Petit Train stops in front of the TI and does a 35-minute loop around the town (€5, free for kids under 12, daily July-Aug 10:00-17:00, Sept-June 14:00-17:00).
Cooking Classes: Charming Barbara Schuerenberg offers reasonably priced cooking classes from her view home in Vaison-la-Romaine, where you’ll pick herbs from the garden to use in the recipes (€90, cash only, includes lunch, 4-person maximum, tel. 04 90 35 68 43, www.cuisinedeprovence.com, cuisinedeprovence@gmail.com).
After-Dinner Fun: You won’t party late in this quiet town, but there are a few fun places to consider. Place Montfort has most of the action: Brasserie L’Annexe has the warmest interior, while Le Comptoir des Voconces is the happening hangout with a pub-like ambience. Below the Roman bridge, Le Patio has cool wine-bar action at the back of its restaurant (closed Wed and Sun, 4 Rue de Ventoux).
Vaison’s top sight is its Gallo-Roman ruins—Puymin and Villasse. Start your sightseeing day at the Puymin site, then follow my short self-guided walk to tie together the rest of Vaison’s sights. Pick up the detailed city map from the tourist office before you begin.
A modern road splits the town’s Gallo-Roman ruins into two well-presented sites, Puymin and La Villasse. The Puymin side has more to see and gives a good introduction to these ruins, thanks to its small museum offering a look at life during the Roman Empire (see later). For helpful background about Roman civilization, read “The Romans in Provence” on here.
Cost and Hours: €9 ticket admits you to both sites; daily June-Sept 9:30-18:30, shorter hours off-season, closed Jan-Feb; good audioguide-€3, tel. 04 90 36 50 48, www.vaison-la-romaine.com.
Visiting the Puymin Ruins: Near the entry are the scant but worthwhile ruins of a sprawling mansion. Find the faint remains of a colorful frescoed wall and mosaic floors, as well as a few wells, used before Vaison’s two aqueducts were built. Climb the short hill to the good little museum (pick up your audioguide here; exhibits also well explained in an English loaner booklet). Artifacts include lead water pipes, well-preserved mosaic floors, and a few models of ancient buildings. Be sure to see the 12-minute film (plays in English every other showing) that takes you inside the homes and daily life of wealthy Vaison residents some 2,000 years ago. A five-minute walk behind the museum brings you to a largely rebuilt (but still used) 6,000-seat theater—just enough seats for the whole town (of yesterday and today).
• Exiting the Puymin site will deposit you just above the TI—and the start of my self-guided walk, next.
Give yourself 45 minutes for this level, crosstown ramble. We’ll start just across from the TI, behind the post office. Lean against the railing there overlooking the Villasse archaeological site.
La Villasse Ruins: When the Romans took over Provence (2nd century BC), the people of Vaison-la-Romaine sided with their vanquishers, earning themselves a preferred “federated” relationship with Rome (rather than being a simple colony). This, along with a healthy farming economy (olives and vineyards) and good weather made it a most prosperous place...as a close look at these sprawling ruins demonstrates.
About 6,000 people called Vaison-la-Romaine home 2,000 years ago. The Roman town extended all the way from where you’re standing to the Ouvèze River (to the left, or south). The ancient forum lies between you and the river (not excavated). At 172 acres, Vaison covered about the same area as Roman Arles (Nîmes was over double that size). And like Arles, Vaison was a river port, boasting aqueducts, a big theater, baths, a forum, busy shopping streets, and the trophy homes of wealthy businessmen.
When the barbarians arrived in the fifth century AD, the Romans were forced out, and the townspeople fled from their unwalled, unprotected low neighborhoods into the hills (see the sidebar on here). The town’s population has only recently recovered from those barbaric times, with the number of residents again reaching Roman-era levels.
If you have a ticket, you can walk through the Villasse ruins, though you can see everything from the sidewalks that run along the perimeter—which is our plan. What you can see between both Puymin and Villasse is only about 10 percent of the Roman town’s extent—most is still buried under today’s city.
Make your way to the corner of Rue Trogue Pompée, just behind the post office. The ruins sit behind a stone and iron fence that runs the length of the street. Stop in about 20 steps, just before reaching the tall arch. Spot the wire mesh that covers parts of a Roman sewer that was used until the 1900s. That tall arch was the centerpiece of a public Roman bath. Notice the public latrines a few steps farther along. That stone channel in front of the toilets had running water that men used to rinse the public sponge (usually attached to a stick—before the invention of toilet paper). Hmmm.
The stone-paved street running perpendicularly below you was lined with shops. The columns and remnants on the left side are what’s left of two mega-homes. Rich guys needed plenty of room to house their extended families and slaves, to accommodate their own private baths, and to carry on public business. You won’t see the homes of poorer folks as they were built from materials that did not last.
Continue along the pedestrian walkway that hugs the ruins. Just below, find an original (if faded) mosaic under a tiled roof. Nearby, there’s a linear channel that was once lined in marble and used as a fishpond (some parts of it are now planted).
• Turn left as you leave the ruins behind. You’ll pass a lovely garden, then turn right at the first little path you come to. Stop when you reach the back of...
Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral: As you approach this medieval church, look at its base to find the stubs of Roman columns that form its foundation. This is a perfect example of how the traditions of the Roman Empire lived on through the Catholic Church (Latin became the language of the Mass; senators became bishops; emperors become popes; and Roman law courts—called basilicas—became churches like this). This church wasn’t built until 600 years after the Romans left, thanks to a lack of security in the lower town and a complete loss of Roman-era building techniques. The first church built over the Roman ruins was abandoned in the Middle Ages, when residents fled to the relative safety of the upper town; the present building dates from the 11th to 12th century.
Walk left, then right, to view the church from its side. Appreciate the simple exterior. This is a fine example of Romanesque architecture: heavy arches, few windows, and little exterior decoration. Notice the delicate frieze under the eaves. If you enter the church, you’ll see almost no art—just pure stonework and nothing to detract from the focus on God.
• With your back to the church, walk out to the street and turn left on Avenue Jules Ferry, then veer right on Quai Louis Pasteur. After several blocks, angle through the parking lot and find a spot above the river.
Medieval Hill Town: During the Roman era, Vaison was a port, and its river was navigable by flat-bottom boats with sails (hard to fathom today).
Look up to the medieval village. From the fourth century onward, Vaison-la-Romaine was ruled by a prince-bishop. When the sitting prince-bishop came under attack by the count of Toulouse in the 12th century, he built the abandoned castle you see on the top of this rocky outcrop (about 1195). Over time, the townspeople followed, vacating the lower town and building their homes behind the upper town’s fortified wall—where they would remain until after the French Revolution. The castle, which the count of Toulouse successfully claimed, protected the town for a while, but the count was eventually chased out by the armies of a Cathar-hating pope and a land-grabbing French king. The bell tower crowned by a lovely 18th-century wrought-iron bell cage (beautiful at night) tolled to announce curfew (the hill town was sealed tight after-hours), to warn of danger, or to signal important public events.
• Continue along the river to the corner of the parking area closest to the Roman bridge.
Roman Bridge: The Romans cut this sturdy, no-nonsense vault into the canyon rock 2,000 years ago, and it has survived ever since. Until the 20th century, this was the only way to cross the Ouvèze River. A vicious 1992 flood crested well above the bridge, and locals still talk of how water flowed through the windows and doors of the buildings on your left. The flood destroyed several other modern bridges downstream, but couldn’t budge the 55-foot Roman arch supporting the bridge.
• Exit the parking lot, turning right, and make your way to the bridge.
Read the information panel on the left side of the bridge, then find the small dark plaque (Septembre 22-92...) on the wall to the right, showing the high-water mark of the record flood that killed 30 people. A 50-yard detour down the road (with the river to your right) leads to fun views of the hill town’s rock-hugging Catholic church (it replaced Notre-Dame de Nazareth when folks fled the lower town).
• Our walk is over. From here, you have two choices: Explore the medieval lanes of the upper town, or meander the shops and main square of the lower town.
Upper Town (Ville-Haute): To reach the upper town, hike across the Roman bridge and up to the right (passing a WWI memorial), looping around and through the medieval gate, under the lone tower. Although there’s nothing of particular importance to see in the medieval town, the cobbled lanes and enchanting fountains make you want to break out a sketchpad. Look for occasional English information plaques as you meander. The château itself is closed, and the view from the steep, uneven trail to its base does not merit the effort.
Lower Town (Ville-Basse): To reach Place Montfort, the TI, and the main parking lots, from the Roman bridge do an about-face and walk up the pedestrian-only Grande Rue, Vaison’s main shopping street. The modern town centers on café-friendly Place Montfort. Tables grab the north side of the square, conveniently sheltered from the prevailing mistral wind while enjoying the generous shade of the ubiquitous plane trees.
In the 16th century, the pope gave Vaison-la-Romaine market-town status. Each Tuesday morning since then, the town has hosted a farmers market. Today merchants turn the main squares and streets in town into a festival of produce and Provençal products. This market is one of France’s best, but it can challenge claustrophobes. Be warned that parking is a real headache unless you arrive early (see “Helpful Hints,” earlier).
Cave la Romaine, a five-minute walk up Avenue Général de Gaulle from the TI, offers a big variety of good-value wines from nearby villages in a pleasant, well-organized tasting room (free tastes, Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:30, Sun 9:00-12:00, Avenue St-Quenin, tel. 04 90 36 55 90, www.cave-la-romaine.com).
Stop at the TI for detailed information on hikes into the hills above Vaison-la-Romaine.
It’s about 1.5 hours to the quiet hill town of Crestet, though views begin immediately. To find the trail, drive or walk on Chemin des Bois Communaux, the road behind the castle in the upper town (with the rock base and castle on your left), continue onto Chemin des Fontaines (blue signs), and stay the course as far as you like (follow yellow Crestet signs). Cars are not allowed on the road after about a mile.
To find the five-mile trail to Séguret (allow 2 hours), take the same road above Vaison-la-Romaine and look for a yellow sign (Sablet/Coste Belle) to the right. For either route, consider hiking one way and taking a taxi back (best to arrange a pickup in advance in Vaison-la-Romaine—ask your hotelier).
The TI has details on several manageable bike routes, with good directions in English, as well as information on mountain-biking trails (also available at bike shops). The easiest is the yellow itinerary to Séguret and Sablet (shortcuts back to Vaison are described, allowing for loop rides of one to three hours). If the air’s calm, the five-mile ride to cute little Villedieu (with the recommended La Maison Bleue restaurant) is a delight. The bike route is signed along small roads; from Vaison-la-Romaine, find the road to Villedieu at the roundabout by Cave La Romaine (see map on here). Alternatively, get a good map and connect the following villages for an enjoyable 11-mile loop ride: Vaison-la-Romaine, St-Romain-en-Viennois, Puyméras, Faucon, and St-Marcellin-lès-Vaison.
Hotels in Vaison-la-Romaine are a good value and are split between the upper medieval village (with all the steps) and the lower main town (with all the services). Those in the upper village (Ville-Haute) are quieter, cozier, cooler, and give you the feeling of sleeping in a hill town (some come with views), with all the services of a real town just steps away. But they require a 10-minute walk down to the town center and Roman ruins. None of the hotels listed has an elevator, and few have air-conditioning.
If you have a car, consider staying in one of the Côtes du Rhône villages near Vaison-la-Romaine. I’ve listed a few nearby places here; for more suggestions see the “Côtes du Rhône Wine Road Drive,” later.
If staying in the upper village with a car, follow signs to Cité Médiévale and park just outside the upper village entry (driving into the Cité Médiévale itself is a challenge, with tiny lanes and nearly impossible parking).
$$ Hôtel le Beffroi*** hides deep in the upper town, just above a demonstrative bell tower (which stops demonstrating at 22:00). The hotel offers 16th-century red-tile-and-wood-beamed-cozy lodgings with nary a level surface. The rooms—split between two buildings a few doors apart—are Old World comfy, and some have views. You’ll enjoy antique-filled public spaces, a view-filled garden, a small pool with more views, and animated Nathalie at reception (several good family rooms, closed mid-Jan-March, Rue de l’Evêché, tel. 04 90 36 04 71, www.le-beffroi.com, hotel@le-beffroi.com). The hotel has a $$$ restaurant with pleasant outdoor seating in fine weather (see “Eating in Vaison-la-Romaine,” later).
$ L’Evêché Chambres, a few doors away from Hôtel le Beffroi, is a five-room melt-in-your-chair B&B. The charming owners (the Verdiers) have an fine sense of interior design and are passionate about books, making this place feel like a cross between a library and an art gallery (the solanum suite is worth every euro, Rue de l’Evêché, tel. 04 90 36 13 46, eveche.free.fr, eveche@aol.com).
$ Hôtel Burrhus** is equal parts contemporary art gallery and funky-creaky hotel—but a good value. It’s a central, laid-back place, with a broad, terrific terrace over Place Montfort and surprisingly big rooms (for maximum quiet, request a back room). Its floor plan will confound even the ablest navigator (air-con, 1 Place Montfort, tel. 04 90 36 00 11, www.burrhus.com, info@burrhus.com).
$ Les Tilleuls d’Elisée is a terrific chambres d’hôte in a stone, blue-shuttered home near the Notre-Dame de Nazareth Cathedral, 10 minutes’ walk below the TI. Anne and Laurent Viau run this comfortable five-room place with grace and great rates. Relax in the garden with views to the upper town and ask about wine tastings in their small cellar (includes breakfast, air-con, 1 Avenue Jules Mazen, tel. 04 90 35 63 04, www.vaisonchambres.info, anne.viau@vaisonchambres.info).
$ L’Ecole Buissonnière Chambres is run by an engaging Anglo-French team, John and Monique, who share their peace and quiet 10 minutes north of Vaison-la-Romaine. This creatively restored farmhouse has three character-filled rooms and comfy public spaces. Getting to know John, who has lived all over the south of France, is worth the price of the room. The outdoor kitchen allows guests to picnic in high fashion in the tranquil garden (family rooms, includes breakfast, cash only; between Villedieu and Buisson on D-75—leave Vaison following signs to Villedieu, then follow D-51 toward Buisson and turn left onto D-75—Route de Villedieu; tel. 04 90 28 95 19, www.buissonniere-provence.com, ecole.buissonniere@wanadoo.fr).
Vaison-la-Romaine offers a handful of good dining experiences—arrive by 19:30 in summer or reserve ahead, particularly on weekends. And while you can eat very well on a moderate budget in Vaison, it’s well worth venturing to nearby Côtes du Rhône villages to eat. I’ve listed three nearby places; for recommendations farther afield, see the “Côtes du Rhône Wine Road Drive,” later. Wherever you dine, begin with a fresh glass of Muscat from the nearby village of Beaumes-de-Venise.
(See “Vaison-la-Romaine” map.)
$$$ Restaurant La Fontaine, located at the recommended Hôtel le Beffroi, serves traditional cuisine of average quality in the lovely hotel gardens when the weather agrees, and in the pleasant dining room when it doesn’t. If they’re serving in the garden, you won’t find a better setting in Vaison (closed Wed, tel. 04 90 36 04 71).
$$$ Bistro du’O dishes up creative and well-presented Franco-Provençal cuisine in a smart, stone-arches-meet-wood-tables setting in the lower part of the Ville Haute (closed Sun-Mon, Rue Gaston Gevaudan, tel. 04 90 41 72 90).
$ You’ll also find a simple crêperie with a view deck and a decent pizzeria on the main street leading up to the old town. Both have indoor and outdoor seating, some views over the river, and cheap, basic food (good for families).
(See “Vaison-la-Romaine” map.)
$$ La Bartavelle, run by friendly Berangère, is a good place to savor traditional French cuisine, with tourist-friendly mix-and-match choices of local options. The €30 menu gets you four courses, including a great cheese tray; the €23 menu offers top-end main-course selections and dessert (excellent foie gras and seafood plate—assiette de pêcheur, closed Mon and Fri lunch, also closed Sun evening off-season; outside terrace, air-con, 5 Rue Camille Pelletan, tel. 04 90 36 02 16).
$$ La Lyriste is an unpretentious and intimate place to experience true Provençal cuisine, with Sandra taking your orders and her husband doing the cooking (closed Sun-Mon, 45 Cours Taulignan, tel. 04 90 36 04 67).
$$ O’Natur’elles is a sweet little place, especially for lunch. It’s ideal for vegetarians, but good for all persuasions as the all-organic dishes can be served with or without meat. The cuisine is delicious, but the place is small (closed Wed, open Sat for dinner—ask about other nights, reservations smart, 38 Place Montfort, tel. 04 90 65 81 67).
Cafés on Place Montfort: Come here for classic $$ café fare and to observe the daily flow of life in Vaison-la-Romaine. Outdoor tables are ideal but can come with smokers. The popular Brasserie l’Annexe is best, with a good selection of fine quality dishes ranging from big salads to tempting plats du jour (open daily).
$ La Maison Bleue, about four miles north of Vaison-la-Romaine on Villedieu’s delightful little square, serves good pizzas and salads with great outdoor ambience. Skip it if the weather forces you inside (March-Oct Thu-Sun open for lunch and dinner, closed Mon-Wed except July-Aug closed Mon only, tel. 04 90 28 97 02).
$ Auberge d’Anaïs, at the end of a short dirt road 10 minutes from Vaison-la-Romaine, is a fun Provençal experience, ideal for a relaxing lunch or dinner en plein air (not worth it in bad weather). Outdoor tables gather under cheery lights with immediate vineyard views and classic Provençal cuisine. Ask for a table sur la terrasse (daily, tel. 04 90 36 20 06). Heading east of Vaison-la-Romaine, follow signs to Carpentras, then St. Marcellin-lès-Vaison. Signs will guide you from there.
$$ La Fleur Bleue is a good find, serving fresh and local cuisine in a charming blue-shuttered farmhouse (open for lunch and dinner, closed Wed and Sun, reservations smart, Chemin du Sublon, a mile from Crestet on the road toward Malaucène, tel. 04 90 36 23 45, www.lafleurbleue.fr).
The most central bus stop is a few blocks up Avenue Général de Gaulle from the TI near the main winery, Cave la Romaine. Buses to Orange and Avignon stop on the winery side (see “Vaison-la-Romaine” map for location). Buses to Nyons, Crestet, and Carpentras depart from the bus station farther east on that road.
From Vaison-la-Romaine by Bus to: Avignon (#4 to Orange, transfer to #2, 10/day Mon-Sat, 2/day Sun, 1.5 hours—train from Orange is faster), Orange (bus #4, 10/day Mon-Sat, 2/day Sun, 1 hour), Nyons (3-5/day, none on Sun, 45 minutes), Crestet (lower village below Crestet, bus #11, 5/day Mon-Sat, none on Sun, 5 minutes), Carpentras (bus #11, 5/day Mon-Sat, none on Sun, 1 hour).
Officially, the Côtes du Rhône vineyards follow the Rhône River from just south of Lyon to Avignon. Our focus is the southern section of the Côtes du Rhône, centering on the small area between Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Vaison-la-Romaine.
Circling the rugged Dentelles de Montmirail mountain peaks, you’ll experience all that’s unique about this region: its natural beauty, glowing limestone villages, inviting wineries, and rolling hills of vineyards. One hundred million years ago, the Mediterranean Sea extended this far north, leaving behind a sandy soil base for today’s farmers (the wine town of Sablet’s name comes from the French word sable, meaning “sand”).
Although seeing the Côtes du Rhône is possible as a day trip by car from Arles or Avignon, you’ll have a more enjoyable and intimate experience if you sleep in one of the villages (my favorite accommodations are listed under “Sleeping in Vaison-la-Romaine,” earlier).
With a car, the best one-day plan is to take the driving tour described later (allow an entire day from Avignon for the 80-mile round-trip; from Vaison-la-Romaine or nearby, you’ll need a half-day for the 35-mile round-trip). Try to get the first two stops done before lunch (most wineries are closed 12:00-14:00; call ahead if possible), then complete the loop in the afternoon. Some wineries are closed on Sundays, holidays, and during the harvest (mid-Sept). This area is picnic-friendly, but there are few shops along the way—stock up before you leave.
This area is clearly easiest if you have four wheels (rentable in Orange or Avignon, and sometimes in Vaison-la-Romaine—ask at TI). Without a car, it’s tougher, but a representative sampling is doable by bike (for ideas, see “Biking” on here) or by bus (5-10 buses/day Mon-Sat stop at several Côtes du Rhône villages—bus #4 from Orange/Vaison-la-Romaine stops at Sablet and Séguret, bus #11 from Vaison-la-Romaine stops in Crestet and Malaucène, tel. 04 90 36 05 22, www.cars-lieutaud.fr. For less effort and more expense, several of the local guides and minivan tour companies I list are happy to follow my route (see “Tours in Provence” on here).
(See “Côtes du Rhône Driving Tour” map.)
This self-guided driving tour provides a crash course in Rhône Valley wine, an excuse to meet the locals who make the stuff, and breathtaking scenery—especially late in the day, when the famous Provençal sunlight causes colors to absolutely pop. Allow at least a half-day for this 35-mile loop drive, which starts in the village of Séguret, skirts Vaison-la-Romaine, and then winds clockwise around the Dentelles de Montmirail, visiting the mountaintop village of Crestet, adorable little Suzette, and the renowned wine villages of Beaumes-de-Venise and Gigondas. (You can, of course, start anywhere along this circular route.)
Even if wine isn’t your thing, don’t miss this scenic drive. This region is not only about wine; you’ll pass orchards of apricots, figs, and cherries, as well as fields of table grapes. As you drive, notice how some vineyards grow at angles—they’re planted this way to compensate for the strong effect of the mistral wind.
Planning Your Drive: Our tour starts a bit south of Vaison-la-Romaine in little Séguret. By bike, or for a more scenic drive from Vaison-la-Romaine, cross to the Cité Médiévale side of the river, then follow D-977 signs downriver to Séguret (park in lots P-2 or P-3). Theft is a problem in this beautiful area—leave absolutely nothing in your car.
Alternatives on Foot: Hiking trails from above Vaison-la-Romaine’s castle lead to Séguret in 5 miles or Crestet in 3 miles (see here).
Wineries: I’ve listed several wineries (domaines) along the way. Remember that the wineries you’ll visit are serious about their wines—and they hope that you’ll take them seriously, too. (Before you go, study up with “French Wine-Tasting 101” on here.) At private wineries, tastings are not happy-go-lucky chances to knock back a few glasses and buy a T-shirt with the property’s label on it. Show genuine interest in the wines, and buy some if you like it.
Eating: Drivers on this route can enjoy a wealth of country-Provençal dining opportunities in rustic settings (even within 15 minutes of Vaison-la-Romaine). It’s a great opportunity to experience rural France. All restaurants listed have some outdoor seating and should be considered for lunch or dinner.
Blending into the hillside with a smattering of shops, two cafés, made-to-stroll lanes, and a natural spring, this hamlet is understandably popular. Séguret makes for a good coffee or ice cream stop and has a good café-restaurant.
Séguret’s name comes from the Latin word securitas (meaning “security”). The town’s long bulky entry arch came with a massive gate, which drilled in the message of the village’s name. In the Middle Ages, Séguret was patrolled 24/7—they never took their securitas for granted. Find the drawing of the medieval town with its high-flying castle on the arch’s wall. A castle once protected Séguret, but all that’s left today is a tower that you can barely make out (though trails provide access).
Walk through the arch and up a block. To appreciate how the homes’ outer walls provided security in those days, drop down the first passage on your right (near the fountain). These tunnel-like exit passages, or poternes, were needed in periods of peace to allow the town to expand below. You will come across La Maison d’Eglantine tucked in here, serving delicious cakes, coffee, and tea in a cozy room with views.
Find Séguret’s open washbasin (lavoir), a hotbed of social activity and gossip over the ages. The basins behind the fountain (now planted) were reserved for washing animals (which outnumbered residents in the Middle Ages); the larger ones (on the left) were for laundry only. Public washbasins like this were used right up until World War II. Farther on, take a left at the fork. The community bread oven (four banal) was used for festivals and celebrations.
Moving along, you could follow Rue Calade up to the unusual 12th-century St. Denis church for views (the circular village you see below is Sablet). This rock-sculpted church is usually closed, but it’s worth a look from the outside. We’ll veer right and down instead, aiming for the santon shop (worth a peek for its displays). At Christmas, this entire village transforms itself into one big crèche scene—a Provençal tradition that has long since died out in other villages. From here, drop down and return to your car past the recommended Restaurant/Café Côté Terrasse.
Sleeping and Eating: Sure, it’s a hotel and restaurant, but winemaking is also part of the business at $$ Domaine de Cabasse,*** a lovely spread flanked by vineyards at the foot of Séguret (with views and a walking path to the village). Free tastings are offered every evening from April through September. Each of the 23 rooms has tasteful decor, air-conditioning, and views over vines; all the first-floor rooms have balconies or decks (elevator, big heated pool, discount for 2-3 night stay if reserved directly with hotel; on D-23 between Sablet and Séguret, entry gate opens automatically...and slowly, tel. 04 90 46 91 12, www.cabasse.fr, hotel@cabasse.fr). It’s worth booking ahead for their $$ classy country restaurant.
$ Le Bouquet de Séguret Chambres d’Hôte is a lovely Provençal refuge perched just above Séguret with vineyard and village views, a pool, and owners Jos and Ingrid—who spoil their guests with optional home-cooked dinners, wine tastings, and afternoon tea (near Domaine de Cabasse at 252 Route de Sablet, tel. 04 90 28 13 83, www.lebouquetdeseguret.com, info@lebouquetdeseguret.com).
With a terrific setting in the center of the village, $$ Restaurant/Café Côté Terrasse offers all-day café service as well as lunch and dinner. They deliver big portions, reasonable prices, good quality, and cheerful service, either on the terrace or in the modern interior (daily from 10:00, Rue des Poternes, tel. 04 90 28 03 48).
• Signs near Séguret’s upper parking lots lead you up, up, and away for to our next stop, the nearby Domaine de Mourchon (leave bread crumbs or track your route up to find your way back down).
This high-flying winery blends state-of-the-art technology with traditional winemaking methods (a shiny ring of stainless-steel vats holds grapes grown on land plowed by horses). The wines have won the respect of international critics, yet the (Scottish) owners, Walter and daughter Kate, seem eager to help anyone understand Rhône Valley wines. Language is not an issue here, nor is a lack of stunning views. Take advantage of the amazing deal they’ve arranged to deliver wine stateside for nearly the same price you’d pay at the winery. Free and informative English tours of the vineyards are usually offered on Wednesdays at 17:00, followed by a tasting, though you’re welcome to taste anytime they’re open (winery open Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun by appointment only; from Easter-Oct, call to verify; tel. 04 90 46 70 30, www.domainedemourchon.com).
• Next, drop back down to Séguret, head toward Vaison-la-Romaine, and once past the city follow signs for Carpentras/Malaucène. After passing through “lower” Crestet on the main highway, look for signs for a side road leading up to Le Village. Drivers can park at the second lot on the approach to the town, then hike up through the village on foot, or bypass the lower lots to keep climbing toward Place du Château at the top of town.
This quiet village—founded after the fall of the Roman Empire, when people banded together in high places like this for protection from marauding barbarians—followed the usual hill-town evolution (see sidebar). The outer walls of the village did double duty as ramparts and house walls. The castle above (from about 850) provided a final safe haven when the village was attacked.
The bishops of Vaison-la-Romaine were among the first occupants of this town, lending little Crestet a certain prestige (they hid out here when things got too testy with the counts of Toulouse). With about 500 residents in 1200, Crestet was a big deal in this region, reaching its zenith in the mid-1500s, when 660 people called it home. Crestet’s gradual decline started when the bishopric moved to Vaison-la-Romaine in the 1600s, though the population remained fairly stable until World War II. Today, about 35 people live within the walls year-round (about 55 during the summer boom).
Wander the peaceful lanes and appreciate the amount of work it took to put these stones in place. Notice the elaborate water channels. Crestet was served by 18 cisterns in the Middle Ages. Imagine hundreds of people living here with animals roaming everywhere. The bulky Romanesque church is built into the hillside; if it’s open, peek in to see the unusual stained-glass window behind the altar.
Eating: The village’s only business, the café-restaurant $$ Le Panoramic, is well signed at the top of town and has an upstairs terrace with a view that justifies the name...even if the food is mediocre. You’ll be served basic omelets, salads, crêpes, and plats from what must be Provence’s greatest view tables. Stop for a coffee or drink and enjoy the panorama (April-Nov daily 10:30-22:00, closed in bad weather and Dec-March, tel. 04 90 28 76 42).
Nearby: A fine lunch stop about a mile from Crestet is $$ La Fleur Bleue (see “Eating in Vaison-la-Romaine,” earlier).
• For those walking back to Vaison-la-Romaine, signs from the top of the village lead to a footpath. The trail leaves from Chemin de la Verrière at the very top of the village (by the intersection with the road from below). The brown sign indicates that it’s 8.8 kilometers (about 5 miles) to Vaison-la-Romaine, but—in a few steps—turn right, following the yellow sign that shows it’s 5.1 kilometers (3 miles) to Vaison-la-Romaine (via Chemin des Fontaines).
Drivers should carry on and reconnect with the road below, following signs to Malaucène. Entering Malaucène, turn right on D-90 (direction: Suzette) just before the gas station. After a few minutes you’ll approach a pass. Look for signs on the left to Col de la Chaîne (Chain Pass).
Get out of your car at the pass (elevation: about 1,500 feet) and enjoy the breezy views. The peaks in the distance—thrusting up like the back of a stegosaurus or a bad haircut (you decide)—are the Dentelles de Montmirail, a small range running just nine miles basically north to south and reaching 2,400 feet in elevation. This region’s land is constantly shifting. Those rocky tops were the result of a gradual uplifting of the land, which was then blown bald by the angry mistral wind. Below, pine and oak trees mix with the shrub Scotch broom, which blooms brilliant yellow in May and June. You may see rich yellow-to-reddish patches of land—the result of deposits of ochre located deep below. The village below the peaks is Suzette (you’ll be there soon).
The scene is gorgeous and surprisingly undeveloped. You can thank the lack of water for the absence of more homes or farms in this area. Water is everything in this parched region, and if you don’t have ready access to it, you can’t build or cultivate the land. (Some farmers have drilled as far as 1,300 feet down to try to find water.) With no water at hand, farmers here lie awake at night worrying about fire. Hot summers, dry pines, and windy days make a scary recipe for fast-traveling fires.
The Dentelles provide fertile ground for walking trails. Yellow-signed hiking-only trails lead from here to several destinations (the castle-topped village of Le Barroux is 3.5 miles away and mostly downhill).
Now turn around and face Mont Ventoux. Are there clouds on the horizon? You’re looking into the eyes of the Alps (behind Ventoux), and those “foothills” help keep Provence sunny.
• Time to push on. You’ll pass more yellow trail signs along this drive. With the medieval castle of Le Barroux topping the horizon in the distance (off to the left), drive on to little...
Tiny Suzette floats on its hilltop, with a small 12th-century chapel, wine tastings, a handful of residents, and the gaggle of houses where they live. Park in Suzette’s lot, then find the big orientation board above the lot (Rome is 620 kilometers—385 miles—away). Look out to the broad shoulders of Mont Ventoux. At 6,000 feet, it always seems to have some clouds hanging around. If it’s clear, the top looks like it’s snow-covered; if you drive up there, you’ll see it’s actually white stone (see the Mont Ventoux drive later in this chapter). If it’s very cloudy, the mountain takes on a dark, foreboding appearance.
Look to the village. A sign asks you to Respectez son Calme (respect its peace). Suzette’s homes once lived in the shadow of an imposing castle, destroyed during the religious wars of the mid-1500s.
Back across the road from the orientation table is a simple tasting room for Château Redortier wines (unreliable hours, but well-explained wine list provided). Good picnic tables lie just past Suzette on our route.
Sleeping and Eating: $ La Ferme Dégoutaud is a splendidly situated, roomy, and utterly isolated chambres d’hôte about halfway between Malaucène and Suzette (well signed, a mile down a dirt road). Animated Véronique (speaks minimal English, her son Thibault more) rents three country-cozy rooms with many thoughtful touches, a view pool, table tennis, picnic-perfect tables, and a barbecue at your disposal (includes breakfast, apartments available by the week, 20-minute drive from Vaison-la-Romaine, tel. 04 90 62 99 29, www.degoutaud.fr, le.degoutaud@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Côté Vignes, off a short dirt road between Suzette and Beaumes-de-Venise, is a lighthearted wood-fired-everything restaurant with outdoor tables flanked by fun interior dining. Young, English-speaking Corinne runs the place with enthusiasm; try the Camembert cheese flambé with lettuce, potatoes, and ham (salads and good pizza, menus from €20-36, daily May-Aug, closed Mon and also Tue-Wed evenings off-season, tel. 04 90 65 07 16).
• Continue from Suzette in the direction of Beaumes-de-Venise. You’ll drop down into the lush little village of La Fare. Here, joyriders can take a beautiful 20-minute round-trip detour into the teeth of the Dentelles by taking a very sharp right on entering the village, following Dentelles de Montmirail signs. The Domaine de Cassan winery (tastings Mon-Sat 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun, tel. 04 90 62 96 12, www.domaindecassan.fr) is a good stopping point near the end of this road, which also leads to the Col du Cayron hiking trail (to the village of Gigondas). Your partner could drop you off and meet you in Gigondas (it’s a 1.5-hour walk over the pass).
Phoenicians brought about five grape varieties with them to southern Europe approximately 3,000 years ago. Today there are more than 2,000 different grape varieties in the world, of which 150 are in France and 14 are in the Côtes du Rhône.
But some things have changed very little over the past three millennia: Today’s Provençal farmers tend their grapes following much the same rhythm as did their Phoenician forerunners.
After a quiet winter, the plants begin waking up in March, pushing out new growth. By about mid-May, the plants are growing at a very fast pace, requiring farmers to do their first pruning of the year. Often working by hand, they pull off sucker plants and prune back new shoots, focusing the plant’s energy on four to five main stalks.
Over the next three months, the farmers plow the soil, encouraging moisture to reach the plants. Every few weeks they spray for mildew (not a big problem in this dry area).
Next comes the harvest. Its precise date is dictated by how much sun and warmth the vines absorbed through the spring and summer: The hotter and drier the weather, the earlier the harvest.
In France, the grape harvest starts in the south and rolls north, ending about six weeks later in the country’s northernmost vineyards, in Champagne. During the harvest, grapes are picked from the vines—either by hand or by machine—then separated from their stems. Pressing comes 2 to 3 weeks later, and the winemaking process is under way.
In the fall, farmers are busy watching and tweaking their wines. By December it’s time for heavy pruning, when the plants are cut way back for the winter hibernation. Farmers spend the winter months catching up on maintenance, reading...and sleeping.
But La Fare’s best wine-tasting opportunity is back on our route, just after leaving the village, at...
A private road winds up and up to this impossibly beautiful setting, with the best views of the Dentelles I’ve found. Olive trees frame the final approach, and Le Caveau signs lead to a modern tasting room (you may need to ring the buzzer) within a big winery. The owners and staff are sincere and take your interest in their wines seriously—skip it if you only want a quick taste or are not interested in buying. These wines have earned their good reputation, and some are now available in the US (winery generally open daily 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, except closed Sun off-season and no midday closure July-Aug; tel. 04 90 12 42 42, www.domainedecoyeux.com, some English spoken).
• Drive on toward Beaumes-de-Venise. You’ll soon pass the recommended Côté Vignes (see earlier), a good stopping place for lunch or dinner.
Next, navigate through Beaumes-de-Venise, following signs for Vacqueyras (a famous wine village with a Thursday market). At a big roundabout, you’ll pass Beaumes-de-Venise’s massive cave coopérative, which represents many growers in this area (big selection, but too slick for my taste); you’ll see more modest coopératives showcasing local winemakers in other villages. Continue tracking signs for Vacqueyras, and then signs for Gigondas and Vaison par la route touristique. As you enter Gigondas, follow signs to the TI and park on or near the tree-shaded square.
This upscale village produces some of the region’s best reds and is ideally situated for hiking, mountain biking, and driving into the mountains. The TI has Wi-Fi, lists of wineries and chambres d’hôtes, and tips for good hikes or drives (Mon-Sat 10:00-12:30 & 14:30-18:00, closed Sun, 5 Rue du Portail, tel. 04 90 65 85 46, www.gigondas-dm.fr). Take a short walk up through the village lanes to find a good viewing platform over the heart of the Côtes du Rhône vineyards (leaving from the recommended Du Verre à l’Assiette restaurant, veer right just after the Nez Bar à Vins, then make a quick left uphill); you’ll find even better views a little higher at the church.
Several good tasting opportunities lie on the main square. Le Caveau de Gigondas is the best, where Sandra and Barbara await your visit in a handsome tasting room with a large and free selection (daily 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, close to the TI on the main town square, tel. 04 90 65 82 29, www.caveaudugigondas.com). Here you can compare wines from 75 private producers in an intimate, low-key surrounding. The provided list of wines is helpful. A self-imposed gag rule (intended to keep staff from favoring the production of a single winery in this co-op showcase) makes it hard to get a strong recommendation here, so it’s best to know what you want (see “French Wine-Tasting 101” on here).
Sleeping and Eating: The shaded red tables of $$ Du Verre à l’Assiette (“From Glass to Plate”) entice lunchtime eaters, as does the good interior ambience (open for lunch daily except Wed, dinner Fri-Sat nights, and every night but Wed mid-June-mid-Sept, located diagonally across from TI, Place du Village, tel. 04 90 12 36 64). $ Nez Bar à Vins, with good ambience inside and out, is a cool-if-trendy place to enjoy a glass of wine and light appetizers; you’ll find it along a pedestrian lane a block up from the main square (closed Sun-Mon, Place du Rouvis, tel. 04 90 28 99 59).
$$ Hôtel les Florets,*** with tastefully designed rooms, is a half-mile above Gigondas, buried in the foothills of the Dentelles de Montmirail. It comes with an excellent restaurant, a vast terrace with views, a pool, and hiking trails into the mountains (no air-con, annex rooms by pool have front patios, tel. 04 90 65 85 01, www.hotel-lesflorets.com, accueil@hotel-lesflorets.com). Their traditional, family-run $$$ restaurant is well worth the price—particularly if you dine on the magnificent terrace. Dinners blend classic French cuisine with Provençal accents, served with class by English-speaking Thierry. The weighty wine list is literally encyclopedic (closed Wed, also closed Thu for lunch, service can be slow).
• From Gigondas, follow signs to the circular wine village of Sablet—with generally inexpensive yet tasty wines (the TI and wine coopérative share a space in the town center)—then back to Séguret, where our tour ends.
But if you haven’t had your fill, consider adding a detour to...
About 10 miles west of Vaison-la-Romaine is this pleasant wine village, with one of the largest and most respected wine coopératives in this region. The Cave de Cairanne has been making wine for more than 80 years with grapes from more than 60 different farmers. Start with the free, museum-esque “sensory trail,” which explores the five senses through interactive displays in English and French, preparing you to taste their large range of wines (free, daily wine tasting 9:00-18:00 but closes at lunchtime, museum closes at 17:00, lots of English spoken, on Route de Bollene on the outskirts of town on D-8—you can’t miss the signs, tel. 04 90 65 98 15, www.cave-cairanne.fr).
Whether or not you travel to Provence during the late-June and July lavender blossom, you’ll see and smell examples of this particularly local product everywhere—in shops, on tables in restaurants, and in your hotel room. And if you come during lavender season, you’ll experience one of Europe’s great color events, where rich fields of purple lavender meet equally rich yellow fields of sunflowers. While lavender season is hot, you’ll find the best fields in the cooler hills, because the flowers thrive at higher altitudes. The flowers are harvested in full bloom (beginning in mid-July), then distilled to extract the oils for making soaps and perfume.
And though lavender seems like an indigenous part of the Provence scene, it wasn’t cultivated here until about 1920, when it was imported by the local perfume-makers. Because lavender is not native to Provence, growing it successfully requires great care. Three kinds of lavender are grown in Provence: true lavender (traditionally used by perfume-makers), spike lavender, and lavandin (a cloned hybrid of the first two). Today, a majority of Provence lavender fields are lavandin—which is also mass-produced at factories, a trend that is threatening to put true lavender growers out of business.
Some of the best lavender fields bloom near Vaison-la-Romaine. Lavender blooms later the higher you go; the ones described here are listed from lowest to highest elevations. For an impressive display, drive north of Vaison-la-Romaine and ramble the tiny road between Valréas and Vinsobres (D-190 and D-46). You’ll see more beautiful fields along D-538 between Nyons and Dieulefit, and still more if you climb Mont Ventoux to Sault (see Mont Ventoux drive later in this chapter).
Eating: Consider a meal afterward at the nearby wine-bar/restaurant $$ Le Tourne au Verre (good value lunch menu, closed Mon and Sun evenings, Route de Sainte-Cécile, tel. 04 90 30 72 18, www.letourneauverre.com).
For further explorations of the Côtes du Rhône region, consider these suggestions: a scenic mountaintop, an off-the-beaten-path countryside ramble, and an impressive gorge.
The drive to Mont Ventoux is worth ▲▲▲ if the summit is open and skies are crystal-clear, or in any weather between late June and the end of July, when the lavender blooms. From Vaison-la-Romaine, allow a good hour to drive to the top of this 6,000-foot mountain, where you’ll be greeted by cool temperatures, crowds of visitors, and acres of white stones. Most days you’ll see any number of cyclists braving the long, grueling ascent, made famous by its annual inclusion in the Tour de France. This drive can also be extended to take you into the Luberon region (see later).
Mont Ventoux is Provence’s rooftop, referred to as the “Giant of Provence” or “the Bald Mountain,” with astonishing Pyrenees-to-Alps views when it’s really clear (it usually isn’t). But even under hazy skies, it’s an interesting place. The top combines a barren and surreal lunar landscape with souvenirs, bikers, and hikers. All that chalky mess you see was once the bottom of a sea. Miles of poles stuck in the rock identify the route.
Road Conditions: Before venturing out, confirm that the roads at the top are open, as they close annually from mid-November to mid-April (and sometimes later).
From Vaison-la-Romaine to Mont Ventoux: For the most direct route, drive to Malaucène (15 minutes on D-938), then wind up D-974 for another 45 minutes to the top. For a slightly longer but prettier route, from Malaucène you can drive around the base of the mountain, over the Col de la Madeleine (follow signs from Malaucène) and through the quaint village of Bédoin (good Monday market); from there the southern leg of D-974 leads to the top. For more driving and walking routes in the area, see the Routes de la Lavande website (www.routes-lavande.com).
Mont Ventoux Summit: Mont Ventoux has two small ski stations, both at 4,600 feet (about 4 miles from the top). Mont Serein station is on the north and Chalet Reynard station is on the south. The mountain pass (Col de Mont Ventoux) between these stations and the summit are inaccessible in winter months due to snow and ice. At the summit, you’ll find an orientation board and Le Vendran restaurant (near the old observatory and Air Force control tower), whose snacks and meals come with commanding views.
Sault: Continuing on to Sault (pronounced “soh”) is a worthwhile 45-minute detour (about 16 miles) when the lavender blooms (simply follow signs to Sault). Lavender fields forever surround this rock-top village, which produces 40 percent of France’s lavender essence. A welcoming town in any season, Sault goes unnoticed by most hurried travelers. It’s a slow-down-and-smell-the-lavender kind of place, with a sociable “mountain market” on Wednesdays.
There’s no reason to sleep in Sault, but it’s a fine place for lunch or un café. La Promenade de Justin Sebastien café has simple salads and grilled meats with territorial valley views (daily mid-April-mid-Sept, closed Tue off-season, tel. 04 90 64 14 34). Or enjoy the same views with a picnic in the adjacent, tree-lined area, the “promenade.”
From Mont Ventoux to the Luberon: Mont Ventoux provides a scenic connection between the Côtes du Rhône villages and the Luberon—and one of the most spectacular routes in Provence. From Sault, continue south toward Roussillon (start by following signs for Gordes, about 40 minutes, 20 miles). Along the way, you’ll duck into and out of several climate zones and remarkably diverse landscapes. The scene alternates between limestone canyons, lush meadows, and wildflowers. (If the summit is closed, skip the long alternate route through Bédoin; instead, zip to the Luberon on the autoroute via Orange and Cavaillon.)
This meander north from Vaison-la-Romaine into the Drôme Provençale is overkill for many, as the scenery is only subtly different than what you’ll see closer to your hotel. But if you haven’t had your fill of pretty vistas, this 60-mile loop combines rugged scenery with overlooked towns and villages, away from popular tourist areas (see map on here). I’d do it on a Thursday, when it’s market day in Nyons, or on a Wednesday, when it’s market day in Buis-les-Barronies. Allow most of a day for this up-and-down, curve-filled drive, particularly if the market in Nyons is on. Or you can just do Nyons and call it a good day.
From Vaison-la-Romaine, drive to Nyons, an attractive midsize town set along a river and against the hills. Here you’ll find a Roman bridge with views, an olive mill, a lavender distillery, a handful of walking streets, and an arcaded square—all with few tourists. Nyons is famous for its rollicking Thursday market (until 12:30) and for producing France’s best olives, which you can taste at its well-organized coopérative (daily 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-19:00, closes at 18:00 on Sun, shorter hours off-season, interesting museum about olives, on Place Olivier de Serres, tel. 04 75 26 95 00).
From Nyons, head for the hills following signs to Gap on D-94, then follow signs to Ste-Jalles on D-64. Little Ste-Jalles hovers above the road, with a pretty Romanesque church (usually closed), two cafés (Café de Lavande overhangs the river, providing a fine backdrop for a drink, lunch, or a snack), and a small winery making crisp whites and easy reds (Domaine de Rieu Frais, daily 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun in winter, tel. 04 75 27 31 54, www.domaine-du-rieu-frais.com, best to call ahead and let them know you’re coming).
From Ste-Jalles, cross the bridge following D-108 and Buis-les-Barronnies signs, and start your ascent over the rocky mountains. Prepare for miles of curves, territorial views, and no guardrails. Drop down (er, drive down) and meet the Ouvèze River, then follow it into bustling Buis-les-Barronnies (with all the services, including a slew of cafés and an attractive old town to stroll). Buis-les-Barronnies is the linden tree capital of France and hosts an earthy outdoor market on Wednesdays with produce and crafts.
From Buis-les-Barronnies, continue south on D-5, then turn left toward Eygaliers on D-72. Follow this slow, serpentine road along the back side of Mont Ventoux and go all the way to the jewel of this trip: Brantes, one of Provence’s most spectacularly located villages. Stop here for some fresh air, a look at the local pottery, and lunch with a Ventoux view at La Poterne (daily, closed Nov-March, tel. 04 75 28 29 13).
Finally, follow signs back to Vaison-la-Romaine along the faster, less curvy D-40. A few minutes before Vaison-la-Romaine, you’ll pass through pleasing little Entrechaux.
These gorges, which wow visitors with abrupt chalky-white cliffs, follow the Ardèche River through immense canyons and thick forests. To reach the gorges from Vaison-la-Romaine, drive west for 1.5 hours (about 50 miles), passing through Bollène and Pont Saint-Esprit to Vallon-Pont-d’Arc (the tourist hub of the Ardèche Gorges). From Vallon-Pont-d’Arc, you can canoe along the river through some of the canyon’s most spectacular scenery and under the rock arch of Pont d’Arc (half-day, all-day, and 2-day trips possible; less appealing in summer, when the river is crowded and water levels are low). Otherwise, hiking trails will get you above it all (TI tel. 04 28 91 24 10, www.pontdarc-ardeche.fr).
The Ardèche region is a hot destination, thanks to the recent opening of a replica of one of France’s largest and most impressive prehistoric caves, the Chauvet Pont-d’Arc, just outside the village of Vallon-Pont-d’Arc. Not discovered until 1994, the cave holds the oldest and best preserved man-made images anywhere (some date back over 36,000 years). The original cave is closed to the public, but the full-scale replica reproduces its art and artifacts to create the same feeling that the original cave inspires (€15—smart to book ahead online, daily generally 9:30-19:00, longer in summer, shorter in winter, last entry two hours before closing, tel. 04 75 94 39 40, http://en.cavernedupontdarc.fr). The Slice of France travel agency offers tours of the cave replica and the Ardèche region (www.slice-of-france.com).
If continuing north toward Lyon, connect Privas and Aubenas, then head back on the autoroute. Endearing little Balazuc—a village just north of the gorges, with narrow lanes, flowers, views, and a smattering of cafés and shops—makes a great stop.