St-Paul-de-Vence • Vence • Grasse • Inland Riviera Drive • Grand Canyon du Verdon
Orientation to St-Paul-de-Vence
For a verdant, rocky, fresh escape from the beaches, head inland and upward. Some perfectly perched hill towns and splendid scenery hang overlooked in this region more famous for beaches and bikinis. A short car or bus ride away from the Mediterranean reaps big rewards: lush forests, deep canyons, and swirling hilltop villages. It’s easy to link the main sights and towns of this region in a day’s drive from Nice. A longer drive brings you to Europe’s greatest canyon, the Grand Canyon du Verdon.
With one full day, rent a car and do my Inland Riviera Drive (described later in this chapter). Start in Nice (or Antibes) and arrive in St-Paul-de-Vence as early as you can to minimize crowds (or just skip it). Do visit Fondation Maeght, then head to nearby Vence for lunch, then take an ice cream stroll through unspoiled Tourrettes-sur-Loup. End your day with a visit to the perfume city of Grasse. (This same trip can be done by bus if you depart early in the morning and forgo Grasse.)
With two days (and a car), conclude your driving tour with an overnight in Vence, then spend your second day visiting the Grand Canyon du Verdon (ideally ending in the Luberon, Cassis, or Aix-en-Provence).
By Car: Driving is the best way to tour this area, though weekend traffic and parking challenges will test your patience. You can rent a car for a day from Nice or Antibes.
By Bus: Buses get you to many of the places in this chapter. Vence, St-Paul-de-Vence, and Grasse are well served by bus from Nice (#94 Nice/Vence, #400 Nice/St-Paul-de-Vence/Vence, #500 Nice/Grasse, about 2/hour). Grasse is also connected by trains from Nice, Antibes, and Cannes (there’s also a bus connection between Grasse and Cannes, #600). Within the area, bus #510/511 runs from Vence to Grasse via Tourrettes-sur-Loup and Le Bar-sur-Loup (6/day, 50 minutes, buy tickets in these towns at tabacs (not from drivers). Bus connections for the Gorges du Loup, the village of Gourdon, or the Gorges du Verdon are either too complicated or nonexistent. For schedules, see www.lignesdazur.com.
With a Local Guide: The owners of the recommended Frogs’ House in St-Jeannet, Benôit and Corinne, are happy to organize cooking classes, wine tastings, hiking trips, and other excursions around their native area (see their listing under “Sleeping in and near Vence,” later in this chapter).
See here for guides with cars who can get you to places you would not find yourself.
This most famous of Riviera hill towns is also the most-visited village in France. I believe it. This incredibly situated village—with views to the sea and the Alps—is understandably popular. Every cobble and flower seems just so, and the setting is postcard-perfect. But it can also feel like an overrun and over-restored artist’s shopping mall. Avoid visiting between 11:00 and 18:00, particularly on weekends. Beat the crowds by skipping breakfast at your hotel to get here early, or come for dinner and experience the village at its tranquil best.
Tourist Information: The helpful TI, just through the gate into the old town on Rue Grande, has maps with minimal explanations of key buildings, and rental boules for pétanque on the square (daily 10:00-18:00, June-Sept until 19:00, closes for lunch on weekends, tel. 04 93 32 86 95, www.saint-pauldevence.com).
Arrival in St-Paul-de-Vence: Pay to park close to the village, or park for free along the road to Fondation Maeght (look for Parking Conseillé signs) and walk down to the village. Free parking is also available at the entry to Fondation Maeght (a 20-minute walk from town). Bus #400 (connecting Nice and Vence) stops on the main road, just above the village.
However you arrive, if the traffic-free lane leading into the old town is jammed, walk along the road that veers up and left just after Café de la Place, and enter the town through its side door.
St-Paul’s old town has no essential sights, though its perfectly cobbled lanes and peekaboo views delight most who come. You’ll pass two vintage eateries before piercing the walls of the old town. The recommended La Colombe d’Or is a good spot for a meal. Back when the town was teeming with artists, this historic hotel/restaurant served as their clubhouse. Its walls are covered with paintings by Picasso, Miró, Braque, Chagall, and others who traded their art for free meals. Café de la Place is a classic spot to have a coffee and croissant while watching waves of tourists crash into town (daily from 7:00). On the square, serious boules competitions take place. Find the cool boules sculpture there.
After entering the walls of St-Paul, meander deep to find its quieter streets and panoramic views. How many art galleries can this village support? Imagine the time it took to create the intricate stone patterns in the street you’re walking along. Visit Marc Chagall’s grave in the cemetery at the opposite end of town, a 10-minute walk keeping straight along the main drag (from the cemetery entrance, turn right, then left to find Chagall’s grave). Walk up the stairs to the view platform above the cemetery and try to locate the hill town of Vence at the foot of an impressive mountain. Is the sea out there—somewhere?
This inviting, pricey, and far-out private museum is situated a steep walk or short drive above St-Paul-de-Vence. Fondation Maeght (fohn-dah-shown mahg) offers an excellent introduction to modern Mediterranean art by gathering many of the Riviera’s most famous artists under one roof. There are no English explanations for the interior displays.
Cost and Hours: €16, daily 10:00-18:00, July-Sept until 19:00, audioguide-€3 (covers primarily art in the gardens), great gift shop and cafeteria, tel. 04 93 32 81 63, www.fondation-maeght.com.
Getting There: The museum is a steep uphill 20-minute walk from St-Paul-de-Vence and the bus stop. Parking is usually available (and free) at the sight and in lower lots, signed Parking Conseillé.
Visiting the Museum: The founder, Aimé Maeght, long envisioned the perfect exhibition space for the artists he supported and befriended as an art dealer. He purchased this arid hilltop, planted 35,000 plants, and hired the Catalan architect José Luis Sert to enact his vision.
A sweeping lawn laced with amusing sculptures and bending pine trees greets visitors. On the right, a chapel designed by Georges Braque—in memory of the Maeghts’ young son, who died of leukemia—features a moving purple stained-glass work over the altar. The unusual museum building is purposely low profile to let its world-class modern art collection take center stage. Works by Fernand Léger, Joan Miró, Alexander Calder, Georges Braque, Marc Chagall, and many others are thoughtfully arranged in well-lit rooms (the permanent collection is sometimes replaced by special thematic shows). Outside, in the back, you’ll find a Gaudí-esque sculpture labyrinth by Miró and a courtyard filled with the wispy works of Alberto Giacometti—both designed by the artists for these spaces.
$$ Le Tilleul is a good place to dine well in St-Paul, either at inviting tables on the broad terrace or in its pleasant interior (daily, near the TI on Place du Tilleul, tel. 04 93 32 80 36, www.restaurant-letilleul.com).
Book well ahead for $$$$ La Colombe d’Or, a veritable institution in St-Paul where the menu hasn’t changed in 50 years (see description earlier). Dine on good-enough cuisine inside by the fire to best feel its pulse (closed Nov-Dec, tel. 04 93 32 80 02, www.la-colombe-dor.com; for reservations, email contact@la-colombe-dor.com).
Vence, an appealing town set high above the Riviera, sees a fraction of the crowds that you’ll find in St-Paul. While growth has sprawled beyond Vence’s old walls and cars jam its roundabouts, the traffic-free lanes of the old city are a delight, the mountains are front and center, and the breeze is fresh. Vence bubbles with workaday life—and ample tourist activity in the day—but it’s quiet at night, with far fewer visitors and cooler temperatures than along the coast. You’ll also find terrific choices for affordable hotels and restaurants. Vence makes a handy base for travelers wanting the best of both worlds: a hill-town refuge near the sea. Some enjoy the Grand Canyon du Verdon as a long day trip from Vence (see the route described at the end of this chapter).
Tourist Information: Vence’s fully loaded and helpful TI is at the southwest corner of the main square, Place du Grand Jardin (in the Villa Alexandrine, Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-18:00; Nov-March 10:00-17:00 and closed Sun, tel. 04 93 58 06 38, www.vence-tourisme.fr). Pick up the city map with a well-devised self-guided walking tour, a list of art galleries, bus schedules, or pétanque instructions, and ask about guided walking tours in English (officedetourisme@ville-vence.fr).
Arrival in Vence: Bus #94 (fastest bus from Nice, about an hour) or #400 (from Nice, Cagnes-sur-Mer, and St-Paul-de-Vence, just over an hour) drops you at the Ara bus stop just off the roundabout at Place Maréchal Juin, a 10-minute walk to the town center (along Avenue Henri Isnard or Avenue de la Résistance). If arriving by car, follow signs to cité historique and park in the underground Parking Grand Jardin, near the TI.
Helpful Hints: Market days are Tuesdays and Fridays until 13:00 on the Place du Grand Jardin and in the cité historique around Place Clemenceau. A big all-day antiques market is on Place du Grand Jardin every Wednesday. If you miss market day, a Monoprix supermarket is on Avenue de la Résistance, across from the entrance to the Marie Antoinette parking lot (grocery store upstairs, Mon-Sat 8:30-20:00, Sun 9:00-13:00). For a taxi, call 04 93 58 11 14.
Explore the narrow lanes of the old town using the TI’s worthwhile self-guided tour map. Connect the picturesque streets, enjoy a drink on a quiet square, inspect an art gallery, and find the small 11th-century cathedral with its colorful Chagall mosaic of Moses. And, of course, visit Matisse’s Chapel of the Rosary. If you’re in Vence later in the day, enjoy the boules action across from the TI.
This 17th-century mansion, adjoining an imposing 12th-century watchtower, bills itself as one of the Riviera’s high temples of modern art, with a rotating collection. Check with the TI to see what’s showing in the temple. The museum offers a loaner guide with English explanations of the collection.
Cost and Hours: €7, Tue-Sun 11:00-18:00, closed Mon, 2 Place du Frêne, tel. 04 93 58 15 78.
The chapel—a short drive or 20-minute walk from town—was designed by an elderly and ailing Henri Matisse as thanks to a Dominican nun who had taken care of him (he was 81 when the chapel was completed). While the chapel is the ultimate pilgrimage for his fans, the experience may underwhelm others. (Picasso thought it looked like a bathroom.) The chapel’s design may seem basic—white porcelain tiles, simple black designs, and floor-to-ceiling windows—but it’s a space of light and calm that only a master could have created.
Cost and Hours: €7; Tue, Thu, and Fri 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, Wed and Sat 14:00-18:00 (Nov-March until 17:00), closed Sun-Mon and mid-Nov-mid-Dec, 466 Avenue Henri Matisse, tel. 04 93 58 03 26, www.chapellematisse.fr.
Getting There: On foot, it’s a 20-minute walk from Place du Grand Jardin. Walk down Avenue Henri Isnard all the way to the traffic circle. Turn right across the one-lane bridge on Avenue Henri Matisse, following signs to St-Jeannet. By car, follow signs toward St-Jeannet, cross the bridge, and start looking for parking—the chapel is about 400 yards after the bridge toward St-Jeannet.
Visiting the Chapel: The modest chapel holds a simple series of charcoal black-on-white tile sketches and uses three symbolic colors as accents: yellow (sunlight and the light of God), green (nature), and blue (the Mediterranean sky). Bright sunlight filters through the stained-glass windows and does a cheery dance across the sketches.
Your entry ticket includes a 20-minute tour from one of the kind nuns who speak English. In the little museum, you’ll find pictures of the artist, displays of the vestments Matisse designed for the priests, his models of the chapel, and sketches. Outside, there’s a terrace with terrific views toward Vence.
Matisse was the master of leaving things out. Decide for yourself whether Matisse met the goal he set for himself: “Creating a religious space in an enclosed area of reduced proportions and to give it, solely by the play of colors and lines, the dimensions of infinity.”
These places tend to close their reception desks between 12:00 and 16:00. Make arrangements in advance if you plan to arrive during this time.
$$$ La Maison du Frêne, centrally located behind the TI, is a modern, art-packed B&B with four sumptuous suites. Energetic and art-crazy Thierry and Guy make fine hosts (RS%, includes good breakfast, kids under 12 free; next to the Château de Villeneuve at 1 Place du Frêne; tel. 04 93 24 37 83, www.lamaisondufrene.com, contact@lamaisondufrene.com).
$ Hôtel La Victoire is a solid value right on the main square next to the TI. Rooms are small but have all the comforts; it’s warmly run and well maintained by Pierre (elevator one floor up, 1 Place du Grand Jardin, tel. 04 93 24 15 54, www.hotel-victoire.com, contact@hotel-victoire.com).
$ Auberge des Seigneurs feels medieval. Located in a 17th-century building, it has six simple but spacious rooms over a well-respected restaurant (Wi-Fi in lobby, no air-con, no elevator, 1 Rue du Docteur Binet, tel. 04 93 58 04 24, http://auberge-seigneurs.fr, sandrine.rodi@wanadoo.fr).
$ The Frogs’ House is situated in the untouristed hill town of St-Jeannet, a 15-minute drive from Vence. (It’s so quiet, it’s hard to believe a Riviera beach is only 10 miles away.) Benôit and Corinne welcome travelers with a full menu of good rooms, cooking lessons, restaurant recommendations, hikes in the area, and day trips. If you don’t have wheels, they’ll pick you up at the train station or airport. Rooms are small but sharp (includes hearty breakfast, some rooms with balconies, family rooms, full-house rentals available in winter, mobile 06 28 06 80 28, www.thefrogshouse.fr, info@thefrogshouse.com). Park in the lot at the bottom of St-Jeannet, a few blocks from this small hotel.
(See “Vence” map.)
Tempting outdoor eateries litter the old town. Lights embedded in the cobbles illuminate the way after dark. The restaurants I list have similar prices and quality, and all have outside dining options.
At $$ Les Agapes, Chef Jean-Philippe goes beyond the standard fare with lavish presentations, creative food combinations, and moderate (for the Riviera) prices. Try the sphere chocolat dessert to round out your meal (closed Mon year-round, closed Sun off-season, reservations smart, 4 Place Clemenceau, tel. 04 93 58 50 64, www.les-agapes.net).
$$ La Litote is a favorite, with outdoor tables on a quiet, hidden square, a cozy interior, and traditional cuisine (closed Sun year-round, closed Mon off-season, 7 Rue de l’Evêché, tel. 04 93 24 27 82).
$ Le Michel Ange is a sweet, kid-friendly place on an adorable square serving excellent-value cuisine from pizza to pasta, as well as tasty, well-presented plats du jour (closed Sun-Mon, 1 Place Godeau, tel. 04 93 58 32 56).
For inexpensive, casual dining, head to Place du Peyra, where you’ll find ample outdoor seating and early dinner service. At the basic $$ Bistro du Peyra, enjoy a relaxed dinner salad or pasta dish outdoors to the sound of the town’s main fountain (closed Mon-Tue off-season, 13 Place du Peyra, tel. 04 93 58 67 63).
The historic and contemporary capital of perfume, Grasse offers a contrast to the dolled-up hill towns above the Riviera. Though famous for its pricey product, Grasse is an unpolished but intriguing collection of walking lanes, peekaboo squares, and vertical staircases. Its urban center feels in need of a graffiti facelift and a jobs program for its large immigrant population. For me, Grasse is refreshingly real. Its historic alliance with Genoa explains the Italian-esque look of the old city. Still, the only good reasons to visit Grasse are if you care about perfume, or if you’re heading to or from the Grand Canyon du Verdon.
All sights in Grasse cluster near the Cours Honoré Cresp, also referred to as Place du Cours.
Tourist Information: The TI is a 10-minute walk from the center on Place de la Buanderie, where buses from Nice and Cannes stop (daily July-mid-Sept 9:00-12:00 & 13:00-19:00, shorter hours off-season, tel. 04 93 36 66 66, www.grassetourisme.fr). Pick up a map with a simple, self-guided tour of the old city. If heading to the Grand Canyon du Verdon, get specifics here.
Arrival in Grasse: Buses from Cannes (#600) and Nice (#500) are better than trains, as they are cheap and run directly to the town center (stopping at the TI and the gare routière).
To reach the town center from the TI, walk out to Avenue Thiers, turn left, and merge onto Boulevard du Jeu de Ballon (where you’ll soon find the stop for bus #510/511 to Vence).
Fifteen trains a day connect Grasse with Nice (1 hour), Antibes (40 minutes), and Cannes (30 minutes). Taxis usually wait at the station and are the best option to reach the town center. From the train station, bus #5 runs to the TI; buses #A, #B, and #C take you to the old town center (€1.50 round-trip, none on Sun, schedules at www.sillages.paysdegrasse.fr).
Those arriving by car are confounded by Grasse’s size, hilly terrain, and inconsistent signage. Follow signs to Centre-Ville, then Office de Tourisme, and park at Parking Notre Dame des Fleurs (under the TI, direct access to the old town) or at Parking Honoré Cresp (follow Sortie Parfumerie signs directly to the Fragonard Perfume Factory).
This city museum is a magnificent—if overwhelming—tribute to perfume, providing a thorough examination of its history and production from ancient Greece until today. The well-designed museum, with excellent English explanations, a good audioguide, and impressive multimedia exhibits, could keep a perfume fan busy for days. Start in the Sensorial Room, where you’ll get mellow while preparing your senses for the visit. The three floors below—organized chronologically—teach you everything there is to know about perfume. Your visit ends with a cool display of perfume packaging for every year since 1900 and a chance to sniff 32 key perfume ingredients. Allow at least one hour to see everything.
Cost and Hours: €4.50, keep ticket for 50 percent off at the gardens (see next); daily 10:00-19:00, Oct-April 10:30-17:30, audioguide-€1, two blocks above Fragonard Perfume at 2 Rue Jeu de Ballon, tel. 04 97 05 58 00, www.museesdegrasse.com.
Perfume Gardens (Les Jardins du MIP): You can also visit the museum’s terraced gardens, about five miles from Grasse, with acres of plants and flowers used in perfume production (€4.50, 50 percent off with perfume museum ticket, includes videoguide, same hours as museum, see website or ask at museum for location).
This historic but still-functioning factory, located dead-center in Grasse, provides frequent, fragrant, informative 20-minute tours and an interesting “museum” to explore while you wait. Pick up the English brochure describing what’s in the museum cases, then drop down to where the tour begins. You’ll learn the difference between perfume, eau de toilette, and cologne (it’s only a matter of perfume percentages); how the product is made today; and how it was made in the old days (by pressing flowers in animal fat). The tour ends with a whiff in the elegant gift shop.
Cost and Hours: Free guided tour, daily 9:00-18:00, closes for lunch Nov-Jan, just off Cours Honoré Cresp at 20 Boulevard Fragonard, tel. 04 93 36 44 65, www.fragonard.com.
This small, dimly lit museum, a few steps from the Fragonard factory, displays traditional dresses and jewelry from the 18th and 19th centuries, giving a sense of the lives of the high- and low-born women of Grasse.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:30, closed Sun in winter, a block above the parfumerie on the pedestrian street at 2 Rue Jean Ossola, tel. 04 93 36 44 65, www.fragonard.com.
This free, air-conditioned museum houses paintings by three of Grasse’s most famous artists: Jean-Honoré Fragonard, Marguerite Gérard, and Jean-Baptiste Mallet. Ask for the English explanations at the welcome desk.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-18:00, just a few doors down from the costume museum, 14 Rue Jean Ossola, tel. 04 93 36 02 07, www.fragonard.com.
Just above Fragonard Perfume, Rue Jean Ossola leads into the labyrinthine ancient streets that form an intriguing pedestrian area. To get a good taste of old Grasse, you can follow the TI’s minimalist self-guided tour with your map (takes an hour at a brisk pace, read the posted information plaques as you go) or, better, wander at will and read the plaques when you see them.
Start by strolling up Rue Jean Ossola (just above Boulevard Fragonard), then turn right down Rue Gazan to find the Romanesque cathedral opposite an unusual WWI monument (it’s worth peering into the cathedral to see its tree-trunk columns and austere decor). Find the view terrace behind the cathedral. Double back to Rue Jean Ossola, turn right, then make a left up bohemian Rue de l’Oratoire and pop out onto a terrific square, making a left just after 27 Place aux Aires (with good eating options).
This splendid loop drive takes you from the Riviera up to inland villages and through a rocky gorge before returning you to the coast. The basic route connects Nice (or Antibes) to St-Paul-de-Vence, Vence, Tourrettes-sur-Loup, and Grasse.
Planning Your Drive: This route adds up to about 2.5 hours of driving and 70 zigzagging round-trip miles, but allow plenty of extra time for stops along the way. Once you are inland, each stop is only minutes away from the next, but allow 45 minutes to drive from Nice (or Antibes) to the first village, St-Paul-de-Vence. Start early to see St-Paul-de-Vence without the mobs. Be prepared for twisty mountain roads, and be aware of bicyclists sharing the road, particularly on weekends.
Route Options: With more time (or if you are staying in Vence), consider taking the beautiful long way around from Vence via the Col de Vence (see the alternate route outlined below). Hardy day-trippers or those leaving the Riviera altogether can opt to extend the drive through the Grand Canyon du Verdon to reach Provence (see “Grand Canyon du Verdon Drive” at the end of this chapter).
The major towns—St-Paul-de-Vence, Vence, and Grasse—on this drive are described earlier in this chapter. The remaining inland villages and sights you’ll see are described later, under “Inland Riviera Towns and Sights”.
Leaving Nice, you’ll drive west, through Cagnes-sur-Mer (passing the Renoir Museum—see here), then follow Vence and St-Paul-de-Vence signs into the village of St-Paul-de-Vence. Consider having breakfast there (at the Café de la Place just before the town walls), then explore the village and visit the Fondation Maeght.
From St-Paul-de-Vence, continue a few miles to Vence, with many good lunch options and Matisse’s famous Chapel of the Rosary (closed Sun-Mon, sparse parking). The best views of Vence are a mile beyond the chapel, where there’s a turnaround.
Next, from Vence, follow D-2210 through slippery-sloped Tourrettes-sur-Loup (great views of Tourrettes-sur-Loup a quarter-mile after you pass through the town). Before long, you’ll see views of Le Bar-sur-Loup, clinging to its hillside in the distance. (Sugar addicts can detour quickly down to Pont-du-Loup and visit the small candied-fruit factory of Confiseries Florian).
Follow Gourdon and Gorges du Loup signs to the right along D-6 and climb into the teeth of a rocky canyon, the Gorges du Loup. It’s a mostly low-gear road that winds between severe rock faces above a surging stream. Several miles into the gorge, you can visit the Cascades du Saut du Loup waterfall, which may have you thinking you’ve made a wrong turn onto Hawaii (€1, easy walk down).
The drive passes all too quickly to where the road hooks back, crossing Pont du Bramafen and around toward Gourdon on D-3. As you climb above the canyon you just drove through, you’ll watch the world below miniaturize. At the top, the Shangri-La village of Gourdon—known as the “Eagle’s Nest” (2,400 feet)—waits for tourists with shops, good lunch options, and grand panoramas.
From Gourdon, slide downhill (stopping at pullouts for views back and up to Gourdon) toward Grasse. Enjoy sensational views down to (literally) overlooked Le Bar-sur-Loup. Follow signs to Grasse, then Centre-Ville, then Office de Tourisme (park under the TI at Parking Notre Dame des Fleurs).
After mastering your scent in Grasse—the capital of perfume—return to your Riviera home base (allow 45 minutes back to Nice or 30 minutes to Antibes), or continue to the Grand Canyon du Verdon (see the end of this chapter).
This dilly of a route is ideal if you’re staying in Vence (it adds about 25 miles and an hour of driving time to the basic route): Follow the route described above until Vence, then find D-2 just before the bridge that leads to St-Jeannet, and follow signs for Col de Vence (the Vence pass) and Coursegoules. The road rises beyond the tree line into a barren landscape to the pass in about 15 minutes. From the pass (3,000 feet), continue on D-2, trading rocky slabs for lush forests, pastures, and vast canyons.
You’ll soon pass the postcard-perfect village of Coursegoules (worth a photo but not a detour), then follow signs to Gréolières. At a roundabout just before Gréolières, find D-3, which leads to Nice, Gorges du Loup, and Gourdon. But first, continue a few minutes past Gréolières to the pullout barely above the village, with stirring views of its ruined castle. Consider a coffee break in Gréolières before backtracking to the roundabout, following signs to Gourdon. After visiting Gourdon, you can continue to Grasse, or return to Nice or Antibes.
This unspoiled and picturesque town, hemmed in by forests, looks like it’s ready to skid down its hill. Stroll the beautifully preserved, narrow medieval lanes, admire the wall-to-wall homes (built for defense, not the view), have an ice cream, and finish with a view drink. Many prefer this peaceful hill town to St-Paul-de-Vence. Known as the Cité des Violettes, this small village produces more violets than anywhere else in France, most of which end up in perfume. In early March, Tourrettes-sur-Loop fills with almost 10,000 visitors (hard to imagine) for the annual Violet Festival.
Park in the lot just outside the village center, on Place de la Libération, where you’ll also find the TI (Mon-Sat 9:30-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun, tel. 04 93 24 18 93, www.tourrettessurloup.com). Wednesday is market day on Place de la Libération (you’ll be forced to park elsewhere if you arrive before 13:30).
If it’s lunchtime, consider sitting outside at the Les Gourmandises pâtisserie on the square, which has delicious pissaladière (pizza-like dough topped with onions, olives, and anchovies) and the filling tourte de Blettes (Swiss chard tart).
Enter the medieval village under the clock tower (just off the square’s right corner) onto Grande Rue. Stroll in a counterclockwise direction, ending up back at the parking lot. Along the way, you’ll find a smattering of arts and crafts boutiques as well as a handful of other places to eat or take a break.
Tom’s Ice Cream may entice you with its violet-flavored scoops or tasty coffee (daily from 12:00, 25 Grand Rue, tel. 04 93 24 12 12). Or finish your walk with a glass of wine on the tiny back terrace at La Cave de Tourrettes. This small wine bar serves salads and quiches, with a daily by-the-glass selection and vast cellar. The sliver-sized balcony has panoramic views (closed Mon, near St. Grégoire church and the parking lot, 8 Rue de la Bourgade, tel. 04 93 24 10 12).
This candied-fruit factory hides between trees down in Pont-du-Loup (though their big, bright sign is hard to miss). Frequent 10-minute tours of the factory cover the candied-fruit process and explain the use of flower petals (like violets and jasmine) in their products. Everything they make is fruit-filled—even their chocolate (with oranges). The tour ends with a tasting of the confiture in the dazzling gift shop.
Cost and Hours: Tours are free, daily 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, gift shop stays open during lunch in summer, tel. 04 93 59 32 91, www.confiserieflorian.com.
The Inland Riviera is crawling with spectacular canyons only miles from the sea. Slotted between Grasse and Vence, the Gorges du Loup is the easiest to reach and works well on a day trip from the Nice area. You can drive about five miles right up into the canyon (on D-6)—passing numerous waterfalls, deep pools, and sheer rock walls. Circling back on the gorge’s rooftop (on D-3) to the village of Gourdon gives magnificent vistas and a complete change of scenery.
This 2,400-foot-high, cliff-topping hamlet features grassy picnic areas, a short lineup of tourist shops, and a few good lunch options (there’s an upper parking lot that reduces some of the uphill walk). The village’s most famous building is its château, which is best enjoyed from the outside. Walk out to the broad terrace for the splendid view (TI in the far corner). A trail (Chemin du Paradis) leads down those cliffs from the far left side of the village to Le Bar-sur-Loup (1 hour)—now that’s steep (you’ll pass the trailhead as your enter the village). This part of the village features fabulous vistas, a tiny Romanesque church, and a nice option for lunch with a view, $$ La Taverne Provençale, which boasts a popular spread of outdoor tables for pizza, pasta, and salads (daily, tel. 04 93 09 68 22). The building below on the left, Le Nid de l’Aigle (“The Eagle’s Nest”), was until a few years ago the region’s greatest view restaurant (now closed).
(See “Grand Canyon du Verdon” map.)
Two hours north of Nice and three hours east of Avignon lies the Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon. This immense area of natural beauty is worth ▲▲▲—even to Arizonans. The park, far more than just its famous canyon, is a vast area mixing alpine scenery with misty villages, meandering streams, and seas of gentle meadows. The Grand Canyon du Verdon (a.k.a. Gorges du Verdon) is the heart of the park, where colossal slabs of white and salmon-colored limestone plunge impossible distances to the snaking Verdon River.
For millions of years, this region was covered by the sea. Over time, sediments and the remains of marine animals were deposited here, becoming thick layers of limestone as they were buried. Later, plate tectonics uplifted the limestone and erosion exposed it, and the Verdon River—with help from Ice Age glaciers—carved out the gorges and its side canyons. At their deepest points, the gorges drop 2,200 feet to the river. At the bottom, the canyons narrow to as little as 26 feet across, while at the top, the canyon walls spread as far as 4,700 feet apart.
The Verdon River is named for its turquoise-green hue (it’s derived from vert, the French word for green). The striking color comes from very fine particles of rock suspended in the water, pulverized by glaciers high at the river’s source. It’s a sight that has inspired visitors since Ligurian Celts ruled the region.
The Grand Canyon du Verdon offers a magnificent route between the Riviera and Provence. You’ll need a car, ample time, and a lack of vertigo to enjoy this area.
The canyon itself is located between the villages of Moustiers-Ste-Marie and Aiguines to the west and Castellane to the east. Roads crawl along both sides of the canyon. The most scenic driving segments are along the south side (Rive Gauche), between Aiguines and the Balcon de la Mescla, and the north side (Rive Droite) between Moustiers-Ste-Marie and the Point Sublime overlook. The Rive Gauche works best for most, though both sides are spectacular. Thrill seekers head for the Castellane area, where the whitewater rafting, climbing, and serious hiking trails are best.
When to Go: The canyon can be overrun with cars in summer and on weekends, but is quiet most days in the off-season. If you are traveling in summer or on holiday weekends, go really early or skip it.
The Basic Route: You’ll drive from the coast through Grasse and toward Castellane, then turn off to hit the canyon at the Balcon de la Mescla. After seeing the canyon’s most scenic stretch, you can either split off (after Aiguines) to return to the Riviera, or continue through Moustiers-Ste-Marie and on to Provence. (For drivers coming from Provence, this tour works in reverse, west to east; see “Approaching the Canyon from Provence,” at the end of the tour.)
Length of This Drive: Figure seven hours and about 150 miles with modest canyon time between Nice and the Luberon or Aix-en-Provence.
Here are some rough driving times: Riviera to Grasse—1 hour, Grasse to Balcon de la Mescla—1.5 hours, Balcon de la Mescla to Aiguines—1.5 hours with photo stops, Aiguines to Moustiers-Ste-Marie—25 minutes, Moustiers-Ste-Marie to Manosque (en route to Provence)—1.5 hours.
Driving Tips: Fill your tank before leaving Grasse or Moustiers-Ste-Marie. Don’t expect US National Park conditions—you won’t see a ranger, signage is minimal, and the road rarely has a shoulder.
There are fewer pullouts and viewpoints than you’d expect, but picnickers will find some good choices for the perfect lunch stop. Just be sure to stock up on provisions before you hit the canyon area—stores are scarce on this route.
Hiking in the Canyon: Hikes into the canyon are long and pretty steep. Most visitors are better off walking along the main road for a bit, or detouring down some of the short paths scattered alongside the road. Your best bet for a canyon hike is the Cavaliers trail, which leads down to the river from a spot near the Hôtel-Restaurant Grand Canyon du Verdon (details later, under “Along the Canyon, from Balcon de la Mescla to Aiguines”).
Overnighting in the Canyon: If you get a late start or just want to savor the canyon, overnighting en route works well (see suggestions later in this chapter).
Round-Trip Option from Nice: You can reach the canyon on a very long round-trip drive from the Nice area if you leave early. From Nice, figure on five hours of driving without stops and about 175 miles round-trip (easier if staying in Vence or Antibes). To do this, take the most direct route to or from the canyon and make it a one-way loop (from Nice take the route via Grasse to Balcon de la Mescla, as outlined later, tour the canyon in the westbound direction, leave the route just before the Lac de Ste-Croix, and connect to the autoroute back to Nice; details below under “Aiguines”).
For drivers connecting the Riviera with Provence via the canyon, this self-guided drive along the Rive Gauche offers the most accessible and most scenic tour of the gorges. You’ll be driving the canyon from east to west in the outside lane, which is best for views.
The most direct route from the Riviera follows D-6185, which starts near Cannes (A-8 autoroute from Nice to Cannes saves time) and passes through Grasse, changing to D-6085 and continuing north toward Digne and Castellane. You’ll turn left off D-6085 about 25 kilometers before Castellane, following signs to the Gorges du Verdon and Draguignan (an impressive medieval bridge stands just north of the road, about 3 kilometers before Comps-sur-Artuby, signed La Souche). Turn right onto D-71 at Comps-sur-Artuby, following signs to Gorges du Verdon, Rive Gauche (not Rive Droite). In a few minutes, you’ll reach a pullout with a good view of the village of Trigance.
Driving along D-71, you’ll soon arrive at the canyon rim at the Balcon de la Mescla. Park just below Le Relais de Balcon café/gift shop, and find the steps down to a memorable lookout above the river bend. The café/gift shop has a small selection of maps and books, and a big selection of drinks.
From here, follow the canyon lip for about 90 serpentine minutes (including ample stops). You’ll drive at an escargot’s pace, navigating hairpin turns while enjoying views of rocky masses and vanishing-point views up the canyon. There are small pullouts along the route that come without warning.
A little beyond the Balcon de la Mescla, you can amble across Europe’s second-highest bridge, the Pont de l’Artuby, and imagine working on its construction crew. There’s a large parking lot at the far end of the bridge; get out and breathe here. About 3 kilometers past the bridge, you’ll find a dirt road and pullout on the north side of the road; drive down 50 yards and you can park easily. A five-minute stroll along the dirt road (push straight through some bushes at end) leads to good views of the canyon and acres of limestone to scramble over—and no car noise. It’s a rare chance to lose the road and be alone with the canyon.
About 10 minutes beyond the bridge, you’ll reach the recommended cliffhanger Hôtel-Restaurant Grand Canyon du Verdon. This funky, concrete place looks slapped together, but the café terrace has tables with stupendous views (drinks, snacks, and meals available at fair prices). If your driver feels cheated about missing the views, make sure you stop here for a break. Just below the hotel, the Cavaliers trail is your best chance to hike into the canyon. For those in reasonable shape, it’s a 90-minute round-trip hike on a well-maintained path to the river and back.
Back along the main road, you’ll pass some of the canyon’s most stunning views along the next stretch. Notice small red and white markers along the guardrails at pullouts. These are trail markers, where you can hop over the guardrail, if you dare, for better views. The Col d’Illoire—the last pass before leaving the canyon—provides sweeping views from the western portal, including your first peek at Lac de Ste-Croix. Park in the large pullout, where you’ll find a few picnic tables scattered above and some good rock-scampering just below.
Just west of the canyon, the small village of Aiguines squats below waves of limestone and overlooks the long turquoise Lac de Ste-Croix. This unspoiled village has a handful of shops, recommended hotels, and cafés. It’s an outdoorsy, popular-with-hikers place that most canyon visitors cruise right through. Detour onto the grounds of the 15th-century château for the view over Aiguines (with picnic benches and a play area for kids; château interior closed to the public). Aiguines’ TI is on the main drag (July-Aug daily 8:30-18:00; Sept-June Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Sat-Sun; Allée des Tilleuls, tel. 04 94 70 21 64, www.aiguines.com). Have lunch at the recommended Hôtel du Vieux-Château’s café on charming Place de la Fontaine (described later under “Sleeping and Eating near the Grand Canyon du Verdon”).
For more views over Aiguines and the lake, stroll north of Place de la Fontaine, then head right and up one of the staircases to find the small Chapelle St. Pierre. From here, you can walk up the small road five minutes to the campground café, with nice tables on its broad view terrace (ideal for a predinner drink or morning coffee).
Returning to the Riviera: If you’re day-tripping from the Riviera rather than continuing to Provence, this is your turnaround point: Follow signs for Aups (D-957) as you leave Aiguines, then Draguignan, then Nice via A-8.
Barely 50 years old, the man-made Lac de Ste-Croix is about six miles long and is the last stop for water flowing out of the Gorges du Verdon. For a fun lake/river experience, rent a canoe or a pedal boat at either side of the low bridge halfway between Moustiers and Aiguines (no motor boats are allowed). You can paddle under the bridge, then follow the aquamarine inlet upstream as far as 2.5 miles, tracing the river’s route up the gorge on its final journey to the lake.
Here’s another pretty Provençal face lined with boutiques—though this one comes with an impressive setting, straddling a small stream at the base of the limestone cliffs of the Grand Canyon du Verdon. The town is busy, as tourists clamoring for the locally famous china compete with hikers. Parking can be difficult, especially in high season (use one of the signed lots, and expect a fair walk to the village center). The TI is in the center, next to the church (daily 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, no midday break July-Aug, Place de l’Eglise, tel. 04 92 74 67 84, www.moustiers.fr).
You can escape some of the crowds by climbing 20 minutes on a steep, ankle-twisting path (262 steps) to the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Beauvoir—a simple chapel that has attracted pilgrims for centuries. A notebook in the chapel allows travelers to pen a request for a miracle for a loved one. For most, the chapel does not warrant the effort, though you’ll get great views over the village by walking a short way up the path.
From here it’s another 1.5 to 2 hours to most Provençal destinations. From Moustiers-Ste-Marie, head for Riez, then Gréoux-les-Bains. From Gréoux-les-Bains, follow signs for Manosque, then Apt for the Luberon and Avignon; or use A-51 south to reach Aix-en-Provence, Lourmarin in the Luberon, Cassis, Marseille, or Arles.
Drivers coming from Provence can reverse the above tour, traveling from west to east (Moustiers-Ste-Marie to the Balcon de la Mescla).
All roads from Provence pass through Gréoux-les-Bains, an hour northeast of Aix-en-Provence. Those coming from Cassis, Aix-en-Provence, the southern Luberon, and Arles will find A-51 north the fastest path; those coming from the central Luberon and Avignon should take D-900 via Apt (turns into D-4100), then follow signs for Manosque. From Gréoux-les-Bains, follow signs to Riez, Moustiers-Ste-Marie, and Aiguines before entering the Grand Canyon du Verdon (Rive Gauche). Ignore the Grand Canyon du Verdon signs as you leave Moustiers-Ste-Marie—they lead to the Rive Droite. Follow the Aiguines signs instead to make sure you are going to the Rive Gauche.
Leave the canyon after the Balcon de la Mescla. To get to Nice, follow signs for Comps-sur-Artuby (and Draguignan for a short distance), then Grasse and Nice. The fastest way from Grasse to Nice is via Cannes and A-8.
These places are listed in the order you’ll reach them on the self-guided driving tour from east to west. Most hotels in this area want you to take half-pension, but it is rarely required outside of high season. Budget-minded travelers will find lots of places to picnic, but bring groceries with you as stores are scarce (grocery stores and bakeries are in Gréoux and Moustiers if coming from the west, but there’s not much if coming from the east—stock up before you head out).
$ Hôtel-Restaurant Grand Canyon du Verdon** is housed in a funky structure that must have been grandfathered-in to own such an unbelievable location—2,500 feet high on the Corniche Sublime. The hotel rents 14 basic, simple, but sleepable rooms—half on the canyon side and many with decks (the best are rooms 8 and 10, well worth reserving ahead, easy parking, closed Oct-early April, tel. 04 94 76 91 31, www.hotel-canyon-verdon.com, hotel.gd.canyon.verdon@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel du Vieux-Château** has been in business for 200 years and is Aiguines’ most characteristic hotel. Warmly run by English-speaking Fred and Eugene, its 10 snug rooms are red-tiled, spotless, and tastefully appointed. The hotel’s good restaurant has hearty fare (great goat-cheese salad and fresh trout, no air-con, no elevator, Place de la Fontaine, closed mid-Oct-March, tel. 04 94 70 22 95, www.hotelvieuxchateau.fr, contact@hotelvieuxchateau.fr).
$ Hôtel Altitude 823,** around the bend below the town, offers a fair deal with good rooms, big public spaces, and quirky owners (no air-con, no elevator, open all year, tel. 04 98 10 22 17, www.altitude823-verdon.com, altitude823@laposte.net).
$ Le Mas du Loup is a fine-value chambre d’hôte, a scenic 10-minute walk below town. Charming Julie welcomes guests to her five-bedroom bastide, where rooms are spacious, tastefully decorated, and come with private patios (cash only, includes breakfast, free parking, tel. 04 92 74 65 61, www.le-mas-du-loup.fr, masduloup7@hotmail.fr).
¢ Restaurant/Chambres Clerissy has four spacious and spotless rooms that are available from mid-June to mid-September. It’s good for families and individuals (cash only, Place du Chevalier de Blacas, in the village center across from the left transept of the church, tel. 04 92 77 29 30).
Eating: There is no shortage of dining options in Moustiers-Ste-Marie. The simple $ Restaurant Clerissy (listed above) offers inexpensive and simple meals (crêpes and pizza) and appealing indoor and outdoor tables. $$$ Côté Jardin is a quiet haven a few steps south of the old town, with a pleasing garden setting, great views, and good cuisine at fair prices (closed Mon evening and all day Tue, tel. 04 92 74 68 91). $$$ La Treille Muscate hangs above the stream and is the place to enjoy a romantic, Provençal meal in a lovely atrium room (closed Wed-Thu, across from the TI on Place de l’Eglise, tel. 04 92 74 64 31).