Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe.
— Quotation attributed to Abraham Lincoln
ORGANIZATION = SUCCESS. For the market garden, this adage is especially true at the production planning stage of the job. This process can be particularly difficult, however, when you have little or no experience as a mixed vegetable grower. It was for this reason that I decided to cover this topic at the end of the handbook, even though crop planning really comes at the beginning of any growing season.
Crop planning is absolutely fundamental to profitable market gardening, and we owe a large part of our success to our skill in this area. Knowing what to grow, how much to grow, and when to plant is not a simple task, especially when precision is required. Doing so requires, above all, an understanding of the steps of crop planning. It might seem confusing at first, but hang in there, it follows a straightforward logic. Then it becomes a matter of following the process through with rigor. The planning stage can be an overwhelming endeavor, but it is worth every effort put into it. All that is carefully planned and anticipated for the year ahead enables the streamlining of many operations during the season. Winter, when more time is available, is the perfect time to do this.
We begin our crop planning sessions after taking a few weeks of vacation away from the gardens. Just as taking a power nap makes for great working afternoons, taking a leave from our daily routine helps us freshen our mind for the task at hand. Our first step is to come up with the annual budget. Setting financial goals is a priority for us because we farm to support our family, first and foremost. Therefore, we must make sure our production will generate targeted revenue, or at least one that we can make do with. Our financial objectives are then translated into sales objectives, which in turn determine our production objectives for the season. While this sequence of priorities may seem obvious to some, many farmers do it backwards, establishing their production capacity first and afterwards hoping to make ends meet. I strongly discourage beginning farmers from working that way. My father would always say, “A goal without a plan is just a wish.“ If you want to make an adequate income by market gardening, it is best to plan for it.
In the CSA model,* production objectives are expressed in the number of shares, their weekly price, and the number of deliveries. For example, producing 60 weekly shares at $23 for 18 consecutive weeks generates about $25,000 in revenue. Determining these numbers will depend on the available growing space, the work force, and especially the grower’s experience—all of which need to be considered. This is the step that determines the scale of a market gardening operation.
The second step is to decide the type and quantity of vegetables to grow in order to reach these production objectives. This step is the more challenging one and is done in two parts: first, you need to roughly decide the contents of the CSA shares for every week of the season. You then need to calculate the planting dates in order to harvest these crops on time and in the quantity that will be required to meet the demand. The tables given in this chapter are very useful for this planning.
The third step is to regroup every seeding by species, making sure that everything fits into the garden space available. With all of this information in hand, you then develop your crop calendar and a garden plan. Once these two are established, running a complex production system becomes much simpler.
Finally, the last step of crop planning is an ongoing one, which is to keep records throughout the growing season, taking notes of what went wrong and/or of what could have been planned more precisely. These notes will be of crucial importance the next time around, when you prepare your crop plan for the following season.
The method described here is by no means universal. Many farmers do it differently, but this process is coherent and is relatively simple to follow. Using our own farm as an example, let’s now go through the whole process one more time, but in detail.
At Les Jardins de la Grelinette, we now produce 120 CSA shares over 21 weeks and sell vegetables at two farmers’ markets for 20 weeks. Since it is hard to determine in advance what we will be able to sell at the farmers’ market (as this is subject to weather, how busy the market is, etc.), we estimate that our market customers equate to 100 extra CSA families. Admittedly, this estimate is a bit of a cheat because the market customers do not necessarily buy the same vegetables as those distributed in the CSA shares, but the demand is similar enough that we can base our planning on this assumption. This also happens to be the simplest way we know of going about it.
So, in total, we plan to produce 220 shares every week, each with an estimated value of around $26 worth of vegetables. This targeted revenue of $117, 260 (220 shares x $26 x 20.5 weeks) is enough to meet our financial objectives, allowing us to enjoy our chosen lifestyle.
Next, we need to get more specific about what to grow. To do this, we create a table with 21 rows, corresponding to our weekly deliveries. We then define the shares by making a list of assorted vegetables along with their values. These vegetables are chosen based on seasonal availability, but also on subjective preferences such as crowd-pleasers, or crops we like to grow (or don’t like to grow). In the process, we pin down the exact contents of the first three and last four shares of the season. These ones are the most critical given the limited availability of crops we are able to grow at those times.
For shares 4 to 17, we don’t calculate weekly contents as precisely, but rather make a rough plan of all the vegetables that will be grown in succession. When the season is in full swing and many vegetables are ripening all at once, shares are built with some vegetables that will store (either on the plant, in the ground, or in the cold room) and some that must be harvested and sold quickly (e.g., peas, beans, tomatoes). We calculate our needs differently according to the type of vegetable.
For single-harvest vegetables (roots, lettuce, broccoli, celery root, etc.), we determine the number of times we want to include these in our shares (e.g., 8 times for carrots, 5 times for beets), which gives the number of seedings we will have to plan for. For multiple-harvest vegetables (tomatoes, cucumbers, summer squash, etc.), the objective is to plant enough to produce 220 units per week. For summer squash, for example, this means having 110 summer squash plants producing at a given time, considering that a single plant gives an average of two fruits per week.
Here is what the planned shares might look like for a given year:
SHARE 1 (June 13): spinach ($3), radishes ($2), cucumbers ($4), summer squash ($4), kohlrabi ($2), garlic scapes ($2.5), kale ($2.5), arugula ($4), cilantro ($2). Total value: $26.00
SHARE 2 (June 20): lettuce ($2), turnips ($2.5), beets ($2.5), cucumbers ($4), summer squash ($4), green onions ($2), broccoli ($3), mustard greens ($2), bok choy ($2.5), dill ($2). Total value: $26.50
SHARE 3 (June 27): lettuce ($2), spinach ($3), radishes ($2), cucumbers ($4), summer squash ($4), kale ($2.5), garlic scapes ($2.5), kohlrabi ($2), basil ($2), snow/snap peas ($3). Total value: $27.00
SHARES 4 to 17 (July 4 to October 3): lettuce and, subject to availability, carrots, turnips, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes, summer squash, snow/snap peas, beans, broccoli, cauliflower, garlic, onions, Swiss chard, basil, eggplants, peppers, cherry tomatoes, leeks, melons, tomatillos, celery root, hot peppers and herbs.
SHARE 18 (October 10): lettuce ($2), carrots ($2.5), turnips ($2.5), cucumbers ($4), tomatoes ($4), garlic ($2), leeks ($3), arugula ($2), bell peppers ($3), cilantro ($2). Total value: $27.00
SHARE 19 (October 17): spinach ($3), beets ($2.5), winter radishes ($2.5), cucumbers ($4), kale ($2.5), cauliflower ($3), celery root ($2), onions ($3), broccoli ($3), parsley ($2). Total value: $27.50
SHARE 20 (October 24): spinach ($3), carrots ($2.5), turnips ($2.5), garlic ($4), Chinese cabbage ($4), kohlrabi ($2), leeks ($3), arugula ($2), potatoes ($3), thyme ($2). Total value: $28.00
SHARE 21 (November 1): spinach ($3), carrots ($5), kale ($2.5), onions ($3.5), winter radishes ($2.5), celery root ($2), winter squash ($4), parsley ($2), potatoes ($3). Total value: $27.50
How Much and When to Grow
Once we have decided what to include in our vegetable offering, we need to determine how much to grow and when to grow it. As I began to explain earlier on, we do this by calculating the number of beds needed to generate 220 units per week, as well as the seeding dates required to have the harvest ready as planned. To help us in this task we use a production calculation table like the one on page 141* and go through every seeding, systematically writing down our result on a list like the one presented below. The next step is to combine all the same vegetables together, thereby giving us an overview of how many total beds we will grow of each crop and, in certain cases, how many successions are called for. We then use this information to order seeds for the whole year, while deciding upon cultivars.
Now that we’ve precisely determined the number of beds, and the seeding dates for every seeding to be done during the season, the next step is to consolidate this information into a procedure that is easy to understand and implement. We do this by writing down the data for every crop in a monthly desk calendar (using the codes H = harvest, I = indoor seeding, DS = direct seeding, and T = transplanting).
At that point we also take the time to systemize other cultivating practices in our calendar. For every planned transplanting or direct seeding, we write the date on which the beds must be prepared, factoring in the time needed beforehand for stale seeding (generally two weeks). We also write in the phytosanitary interventions we want to remember, along with any other information we are liable to forget. For example, if we know that our broccolis will need to be supplemented with boron and molybdenum 10 days after being transplanted, we write that down. If we know that our greenhouse tomatoes need to be fertilized every month, we write that down as well. So on and so forth.
Our crop calendar is crucial for achieving all the planting and upkeep required for our production season. Although there are many ways to organize seeding dates (computerized spreadsheets, specialized software, etc.), we prefer the visual clarity of an at-a-glance paper calendar.
If done properly, a calendar of this sort leaves nothing to chance. It tells us at a glance all the tasks that await us in a given week. At any time during the growing season, our calendar is there to tell us what we should do and when. I cannot overstate how truly vital this tool is to the success of our growing season.
The final step in our winter crop planning session is to make a garden plan that determines the exact placement of all our yearly seedings. Recall that our farmland is divided into 10 plots of equal size, each one occupied by a botanical family or group of vegetables that follow a precise rotation (See Chapter 6, Fertilizing Organically). When describing how we went about establishing our rotation plan, I mentioned that the consequences of the plan can be somewhat restrictive. Now that we’ve gone about deciding what to grow and how much we will need of each crop, we also need to make sure that we have enough room to fit everything into the garden, and within the spatial constraints imposed by our rotation plan.
What we do is make a map that shows the 16 permanent beds of each of our 10 plots, labeled by family. The task then is to find the best spot for each seeding, taking into account not only the botanical family, but also grouping crops based on specific characteristics that will make maintenance operations more efficient. Crops that might be grouped together are those that go in the ground the same day, those that require floating row cover, or those that we direct seed and irrigate with our sprinklers — which water a defined width, in our case 4 beds. We also want to group crops that will be harvested around the same time, so that succeeding crops can be started following the same routine.
To make this variable clear, we need to know how long each crop will stay in a bed, from the date it is put in the ground to the last harvest date. For each seeding, we therefore write down not only planting dates, but also estimated harvest dates, to which we add a buffer period of 14 days to make sure the crop has time to grow to full maturity. Then we draw a line indicating that the bed is once again free for another crop of vegetables or cover crop. As an example, I have included a rough version of one of our garden plans in the appendices.
As you might imagine, considering all these variables when deciding where to place our crops makes for a lot of shuffling around. Although this task makes our annual planning more complex, it is important because it allows us to use our small area as efficiently as possible. We usually tackle this job while it is still snowing outside, when we have the luxury of time. This saves us from having to worry about crop placement decisions in the summer.
As I mentioned earlier, once we have developed both our crop calendar and garden plan, we follow though without asking ourselves further questions. This is why it is so important to be really concentrated and focused when doing this work. Developing a crop plan a few days before the seed order deadlines is a really bad idea. Even so, however good a plan we might concoct, it is almost certain that we will discover a mistake in the plan at some point during the season: a miscalculation of the number of days spent in the fields, crop successions too far apart, not enough beds to meet the demand, etc. To prevent these mistakes from happening again the following year, we record all our observations in a loose-leaf binder with a section for each crop. For each cultivar, we note the actual seeding, planting, and harvesting dates along with the yield produced. We also record the number of beds planted, which allows us to adjust our targets for the following year if necessary. At the bottom of each page, we leave a space to note any other useful observations. The sheets in our binder resemble the table on the following page.
Our record keeping system is not complicated or time-consuming, but we’ve learned that it works best when information is recorded on a regular basis, and so we try to do that. Ultimately, crop planning is all about small details that make a big difference.
We take notes of anything that goes wrong as soon as we realize it. We know from experience that otherwise we will forget.
* “Days to maturity” refers to the number of days between the seeding and the first harvest. This expression is not synonymous with “days in the garden” (which I mention in the crop notes), as the figure for days to maturity includes the time spent in cell flats. For vegetables transplanted early in the spring or late in the fall, the days to maturity must be adjusted for slower plant growth.
** The weekly yields are approximate and take account of our intensive spacing on a bed 30 inches wide and 100 feet long. You will have to modify these numbers in proportion to the dimensions of your beds.
* Production for sale at farmers’ markets can be calculated in just the same way as when planning for CSA production.
* Remember that we are working with intensive spacing, which produces higher yields than may be suggested by similar tables based on different cropping systems.