t Skyride to Paradise Point cable cars
t Skyride to Paradise Point cable cars
Located directly across from the Havensight shopping mall, and popular with cruise ship passengers, this aerial cable car whisks visitors more than 700 ft (213 m) up Flag Hill in just seven minutes. On the spacious observation decks at the top are expansive views of Charlotte Amalie’s harbor, the cruise ships in port, planes landing and taking off at Cyril E. King International Airport, and even glimpses of Puerto Rico in the distance during clear weather. The summit restaurant and bar serves the Bushwacker, a surprisingly potent frozen rum cocktail made with Bailey’s Irish Cream. There’s also a short nature trail around the hill and a number of shops selling tourist trinkets. For the best ambience, visit around sunset.
t The spectacular view that awaits travelers at the top
Ever popular Magens Bay beach stretches along a U-shaped bay. This beach has a snack bar, snorkel gear and small sailboat rentals, a beachwear shop, showers, and bathrooms. On cruise ship days the beach can get a little crowded. Locals like to party here on weekends and holidays, when music gets very loud and the atmosphere more than lively. For some solitude, it is best to stroll down to either end of the beach.
Inland from the beach is the Magens Bay Arboretum, a splendid botanical garden that is home to both native and imported plants.
Columbus named the islands “Las Virgenes” after the famed beauty of St. Ursula and her 11,000 virgin companions.
Home to the world’s busiest cruise ship dock, Havensight bustles with activity. Those who arrive on a cruise ship can join their sailing, scuba, or exploring excursions at the dock. A short stroll from the dock is the vast Havensight shopping area. It stretches from Havensight Mall to Port of Sale Mall, and around the corner past Wendy’s fast food restaurant to Yacht Haven Grande Mall. Several downtown Charlotte Amalie stores have branches in the area. Visitors also buy liquor here, since it is available at better prices than anywhere else.
The area is home to many restaurants, so cruise ship passengers not eating on board will not go hungry.
t Relaxing in a shaded green space in downtown Charlotte Amalie
While there are ample stores filled with everything from T-shirts to crafts to luxury items that beckon, Charlotte Amalie, long the center of commerce, offers more than just shopping opportunities. The island’s history reveals itself in stores that formerly served as warehouses or merchants’ homes centuries ago. A short walk takes visitors to Fort Christian, a military construction begun in 1672 by the Danish, who controlled the island at the time. Today, it has been converted into a museum that displays exhibits on the island’s history and culture. Just across the Veterans Drive from Fort Christian, the big green building that now serves as home to the local Legislature was the site for the transfer of power from Denmark to the U.S. of St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix on March 31, 1917. The purchase cost the U.S. government $25 million. Every year on the same day, local residents observe the transfer anniversary in the Legislature’s garden.
For those inclined to take advantage of the shopping opportunities, however, Charlotte Amalie presents a paradise of sorts. Vendor’s Plaza offers great bargains, while various art galleries are scattered around the Shopping District.
Two streets inland from the Shopping District’s Main Street, St. Thomas Synagogue has served as the spiritual home to the island’s Jewish population since 1833. Other historic churches are scattered around the city as well. The Neo-Classical white building, from the Shopping District, is the seat of the local government’s administrative branch, and houses the governor’s office.
Lunch can be enjoyed at any of the numerous restaurants that sit along Main Street, and on the streets and alleys that connect Main Street to the waterfront and the streets inland. The restaurants range from simple sandwich eateries to more formal venues.
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
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Stay Bolongo Bay Beach Resort Head here for spacious rooms, white sands, and a gorgeous turquoise bay where the focus is on watersports. ⌂ Rte 30, Bolongo, St. Thomas ∑ bolongobay.com \\\ St. John Inn A sociable and colorful inn that is well located, with comfortable but basic rooms. ⌂ Off Rte 104, St. John ∑ stjohninn.com \\\ The Buccaneer Hotel This hotel offers a beautiful beachfront location, while staying within easy reach of the town’s shopping and historic sites. ⌂ Rte 82, Shoys, St. Croix ∑ thebuccaneer.com \\\ |
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
t Relaxing on Cruz Bay beach;
St. John is the smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, but arguably offers the most spectacular natural beauty. Most vacationers pass through Cruz Bay, St. John’s main town: ferries from St. Thomas and the British Virgin Islands pull into the port; it has the widest choice of restaurants and shops; and many watersports excursions depart from here. Near the ferry dock, in Cruz Bay Park, taxi drivers wait to pick up visitors, and people relax on the benches scattered around the park. Shops and restaurants are anchored by Wharfside Village shopping center, sitting beachfront near the ferry dock, while the Mongoose Junction shopping center is located where North Shore Road starts uphill and out of Cruz Bay.
The town is home to a few historical sites. The red-roofed Battery, on the north side of the harbor, dates back to 1825 and is currently the seat of the territorial government. Farther afield, at Tamarind Court, is the Elaine Ione Sprauve Library located in a restored apricot-hued plantation house dating from 1757.
t Boats in the bay’s picturesque harbor
Insider Tip
Try the national dish, “Old Wife” – boiled whole fish served with fungi (pronounced foon-ji). Fungi is an Antiguan version of polenta or grits, made by forming a cornmeal and okra paste into balls.
About 200 years ago, Coral Bay was the only large settlement on St. John. Today, it is home to a handful of shops and restaurants that lie along the main road. It is anchored by the Skinny Legs Bar and Grill complex and the Cocoloba shopping center to the south. The Emmaus Moravian Church is an important historical site. The parish dates to 1756, but the church was rebuilt after it was severely damaged during the 1916 hurricane.
Covering nearly two-thirds of St. John, the Virgin Islands National Park encompasses 11 sq miles (29 sq km) above ground and 9 sq miles (23 sq km) of marine sanctuary. It was established in 1956, thanks to land donations by American philanthropist Laurance S. Rockefeller. The Visitors’ Center in Cruz Bay has exhibits, books for sale, and rangers on duty to answer questions. Brochures about various beach, watersports, and hiking opportunities are also available to pick up from the center. The park also offers guided programs including beach walks and birding trips.
t Park ranger on a sea kayak at Virgin Islands National Park, St. John
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
Trunk Bay
An ever-popular spot, with crystal water, towering palms, and a snorkeling trail.
Salt Pond Bay
The curve of white sand here offers great swimming and snorkeling, and is the starting point for many hikes.
Cinnamon Bay
A good bet for a day out, with a watersports center that offers kayaks and snorkeling, and the scenic Cinnamon Bay Trail.
Lameshur Bay
This remote and well protected bay has a talcum-soft sandy beach with good snorkeling along the east edge. It’s also a great place to spot sea turtles and rays.
Maho Bay
This gorgeous strand is popular with families, thanks to the shallow water and abundance of shady spots. There are also a number of barbecue grills and picnic tables.
t Remains of a windmill at the Annaberg Sugar Plantation
Once one of 25 active sugar mills on St. John, Annaberg was a leading producer of sugar, molasses, and rum back in the 19th century. Today, the plantation is the best preserved and most accessible of the old sugar mills, and lies within the Virgin Islands National Park. Visitors can explore the site via a trail that takes in the ruins of the windmill, slave quarters, the rum still, and a dungeon. The latter served as a means of punishment for enslaved laborers. Informative signboards dotted throughout the site explain how sugar was produced; how slaves worked in the fields planting and harvesting sugarcane; while skilled coopers, blacksmiths, and sugar cookers worked in the factory. Ranger-led tours are also available, and can be organized through the National Park visitor center.
The plantation’s 38-ft- (12-m-) tall windmill is a highlight of the site, and is the largest such windmill in the Virgin Islands. It dates to 1830 and was state-of-the-art machinery for that period, being able to produce 300–500 gallons (1,140–1,900 liters) of juice in an hour.
While the historic ruins are what first attracts vistors to Annaberg, lovely views of Leinster Bay, the Sir Frances Drake Channel, and a few of the British Virgin Islands also make a trip worthwhile.
Waterlemon Cay is nestled just a few meters off shore on the eastern end of Leinster Bay, approximately a 20- minute walk along the main shoreline from the parking lot at Annaberg Sugar Plantation. The word “cay” originally translated as a small islet,and this one has a sandy spit and is surrounded by a fringing reef and grassy sea beds that teem with 40 species of coral and hundreds of tropical fish, as well as green turtles, stingrays, starfish, dolphins, and nurse sharks. It’s considered to be one of the best snorkeling spots on St. John.
Water entry is at a pebble beach adjacent to the cay. Once in the water, head for the western edge, which is protected from wind and waves, making for easier and far more pleasant snorkeling than that at the far point or eastern side.
Back on the main shore, the beach trail also leads up to Windy Hill where there are some ruins of an old Danish Guard House, and appealing views back down to the cay and Leinster Bay.
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
t Stunning views from the Salt Pond Trail
St. John is the U.S. Virgin Islands’ premier hiking destination and will appeal to both the experienced hiker and the casual stroller. The Reef Bay guided hike is the most popular, with trips departing from the Virgin Islands National Park’s Cruz Bay Visitors’ Center several times a week. The island also has other trails including the walk through the Annaberg Plantation and the Ram’s Head Trail along the southern shore. A brochure available at the Visitors’ Center covers around 20 hikes, ranging in length and difficulty.
REEF BAY TRAIL
t Hikers descending the hill on a ranger-led hike of the Reef Bay Trail
The 2-mile- (3-km-) long Reef Bay Trail begins on Centerline Road, from where it heads downhill to a sandy beach. On the walk you will pass Reef Bay Great House, now in ruins – a remnant of bygone days when plantations dotted St. John – and ancient petroglyphs, possibly carved by Taínos along the edges of rock pools. The Reef Bay sugar factory ruins and beach mark the end of the Reef Bay Trail. The old mill has been partially restored and the grave of former owner Will Marsh is tucked back in the bushes. A boat picks up hikers for the return trip to Cruz Bay.
SHORTER HIKES
t Ancient petroglyphs on the edge of a rockpool at Reef Bay
St. John has several fairly easy hiking trails that cut across flat terrain. Many of these are no more than 1 mile (2 km) long.
The Annaberg Plantation path leads visitors through a 0.8 sq mile (2 sq km) sugar plantation. Now in ruins, the plantation’s sugar mill, factory, and kitchen date back to the 18th century.
The Ram’s Head Trail, beginning at Salt Pond Bay, stretches across a rocky beach with a short climb uphill to an overlook with fantastic views of the Caribbean Sea.
The Salt Pond Trail offers pleasant hiking through arid vegetation to the pretty Salt Pond Bay Beach and takes less than 20 minutes to complete.
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
Stretching along St. Croix’s north side, the famous Cane Bay Wall attracts divers from around the world. Most prefer to go out on a boat with dive operators, but The Wall is also accessible from Cane Bay Beach and other locations along the island’s north shore. It sits just 100 ft (30 m) to 200 ft (60 m) offshore. Canyons plummet over 2,000–3,000 ft (610–920 m) down, giving novice and experienced divers a view of colorful corals (including the rare black coral), sponges, and fish, as well as the occasional shark.
The U.S. Virgin Islands is the only place in the United States where you drive on the left side of the road.
t Colorful buildings lining the waterfront in Christiansted
Home to Christiansted National Historic Site and its massive waterfront Fort Christiansvaern, this charming town is also the jumping-off point for trips to Buck Island Reef National Monument. Rangers at the fort offer information on the site’s highlights. Christiansted was erected in the 18th century and most of the buildings date back to that time. These have been restored, and transformed into stores and restaurants. The Tourism Department office, in the Government House, has maps and brochures about St. Croix. Tours of this historic structure, built as a home for a Danish merchant in 1747, are available.
Visitors can stroll on the Christiansted Boardwalk that winds along the harbor past Fort Christiansvaern, with benches strategically placed for prime harbor viewing. The town is also home to a handful of small hotels, but note that the closest beach is at the Hotel on the Cay, located in the midst of the Christiansted Harbor.
St. Croix’s second town is a sleepy place. However, it is the site of the territory’s most historic event. On July 3, 1848, about 8,000 slaves marched from nearby Estate LaGrange to Fort Frederik to demand their freedom. Standing in a carriage parked in front of the fort, Danish Governor-General Peter von Scholten announced that freedom was theirs. The Danish government called von Scholten home, while the former slaves continued to work the plantations. Frederiksted was later the scene of other labor uprisings by discontented workers.
The town does not have many shops, and only a few restaurants and a small hotel in the downtown area, but when cruise ships sail in, this is where they arrive. A lovely white sandy beach stretches north from Fort Frederik.
This historical landmark is one of the oldest plantations on St. Croix. Its history dates back to 1743, when it started as a cotton plantation with slaves brought here from West Africa. After cotton, sugarcane was grown until 1952. The museum includes the restored great house, sugar factory ruins and mills, plots of sugar cane, and gardens.
t A glimpse of the vibrant coral reefs beneath the water surface
Day-sail and power boats leave from Christiansted waterfront and Green Cay Marina to this 29-sq-mile (77-sq-km) national park. The rainbow reefs that make up the underwater trail at the eastern side of the monument offer some good snorkeling. After the snorkel stop, most boats anchor off a gorgeous white sandy beach at the western end. Visitors can also hike uphill to the island’s highest point, at 328 ft (99 m) above sea level.
t Snorkelers at the Buck Island Reef Monument
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
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Eat Eat @ Cane Bay A pleasant, open-air spot that dishes up some of the best food on the island. Try the Crab Cake Benedict for Sunday brunch. ⌂ 110c Cane Bay, St. Croix ¢ Tue & Sun eve ∑ eatatcanebay.com \\\ Virgilio’s Top-end Italian cuisine, from great homemade pasta with made-to-order sauces, to delectable tiramisu. ⌂ 5150 Dronnigens Gade, St. Thomas ¢ Sun ∑ virgiliosvi.com \\\ |
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
t A catamaran afloat in turquoise waters, just off Marina Cay
Home to Pusser’s Marina Cay Hotel and a popular boating anchorage, Marina Cay makes an interesting day trip from Tortola. American newlyweds Robb and Rodie White set up house on the island in 1937 and lived here for three years. In his 1985 book, Two on the Isle, Robb White tells the story of their adventures. What is left of their home serves as part of the hotel, and guests can wander the grounds, take a dip in the ocean from the sandy beach, and enjoy the salty ambience of the bar and restaurant. Activities include snorkeling reefs sitting just off the island’s soft white beach. Those with a thirst for greater adventure can try scuba diving from the beach or a boat.
Visitors may enjoy spending part of their day in Tortola driving the North Coast Road for some glorious ocean views and a glimpse into the island’s local life. The drive can be challenging in spots, with lots of twists, turns, and steep hills on the narrow roads. Those driving should remember to keep to the left and watch out for wandering livestock.
The intersection of Zion Hill Road and North Coast Road, where Sebastian’s on the Beach is located, is a good place to start the drive. Heading west, a bumpy road snakes down to the lovely Smuggler’s Cove Beach. It has good snorkeling, shade from coconut palms, and an informal shack for drinks and snacks.
Returning east, back to Sebastian’s, visitors can break for food at its beachfront restaurant, or spend some time on the lovely white sands of Apple Bay Beach. Farther ahead is the the village of Carrot Bay, home to small restaurants and some more beaches. The trip ends in pleasant Cane Garden Bay.
Road Town bustles on days when cruise ships cast anchor, but even on days when there are none in port, the British territory’s main town is active. It is the seat of B.V.I. commerce and home to a large offshore banking industry and other offices. Ferries from Virgin Gorda and St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands tie up at the Road Town ferry dock, further adding to the town’s traffic. It is a working town rather than just a tourist destination, evident from the even mix of locals and visitors dining in the many restaurants. The very heart of Road Town runs from the waterfront one block inland to the narrow Main Street.
East of here, restaurants, shops, and banks overflow on Wickham’s Cay I, which is also home to marinas. Farther east sits Wickham’s Cay II, base of the huge Moorings charter operations, but with little else.
Road Town’s Botanic Gardens provide a pleasant respite from the commotion. Visitors can walk here from the heart of town, but on a hot day a taxi is a better bet. Once here, the gardens offer plenty of shade and benches for resting. The 130,700-sq-ft (12,150-sq-m) gardens feature collections that represent the different plant habitats, exotic species, and a vast collection of palms. Orchids bloom in the gazebo, lilies float in the pond, and cactuses grow in the tropical sun.
Established in 1964, the Sage Mountain National Park is B.V.I.’s first national park, founded through a donation from philanthropist Laurance S. Rockefeller. Stretching over 0.1 sq miles (0.3 sq km), the park reaches a lofty 1,716 ft (523 m) and is the highest point on the entire Virgin Islands. It sits so high that Sage Mountain creates rain: as warm moist air rises from the east and south, it cools as it crosses the mountain, falling as rain on the park’s northern side.
The park offers wonderful panoramic views to hikers willing to spend some time walking its trails. It is home to many native and introduced species of trees and plants, including mahogany, white cedar, and mamey trees. Hikers on the park’s dozen trails, including the popular Mahogany Forest Trail and the Rainforest Trail, might glimpse mountain doves and thrushes flitting among the trees. Much of the vegetation in the area is second growth owing to clearing activity that was carried out by farmers for agricultural purposes, before the establishment of the park.
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
Bushwacker
A frozen cocktail similar to a creamy piña colada, made with dark rum.
Painkiller
A refreshing fruity mix, served over ice with a sprinkle of nutmeg.
Limin’ de Coconut
A smooth, blended concoction, festively served in half a coconut.
Dark ‘n’ Stormy
A highball cocktail made with very dark rum and ginger beer.
Cruzan Confusion
This includes banana Cruzan rum, which is produced on St. Croix.
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
t A family marveling at the boulders in The Baths National Park, Virgin Gorda
Reached by ferry from St. Thomas, St. John, and Tortola, Virgin Gorda is a small island that beckon visitors who want to relax with a good book and a frosty drink in hand. It has a handful of restaurants, a bit of nightlife, and some modest shopping, but the real draws are the luscious white beaches and the chance to do nothing but gaze at the glorious sunrises and sunsets.
The southwestern part of the island is known as The Valley, or Spanish Town, which is the heart of the island’s activity. Most of it is centered at Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour, a smallish marina, and the shopping area, while a few restaurants are dotted along the main road of what is not much more than a village.
On the must-see list for nearly every visitor to Virgin Gorda is the Baths National Park, a collection of massive granite boulders on the white-sand beaches that form lovely pools of seawater. Some of the boulders are 40 ft (12 m) in diameter, and were formed when molten rock seeped into existing volcanic rock layers. It is a fair walk from the parking area but the pools are great for swimming and snorkeling. Restaurants and a few shops nearby provide lunch, drinks, and the obligatory T-shirt, as well as other souvenirs.
Visitors to Virgin Gorda should rent a car for at least a day to get out and about. The 8-sq-mile (21-sq-km) island has just one main main road and a handful of side roads, so it is almost impossible to get lost. West on Lee Road from The Valley, a side road leads to Coppermine Point, a ruin of a mine which was originally built in the 1800s. Spring Bay National Park, just before the Baths, sees far fewer people and is an ideal spot to relax at for a few hours. East from The Valley, an unpaved road leads to Savannah Bay, great for sunbathing and swimming. Gorda Peak National Park offers great hiking, and the drive can end at Gunn Creek, where ferry trips to North Sound begin.
The Gorda Peak National Park covers 0.4 sq miles (1 sq km) of land and is one of the last remaining examples of the Caribbean dry forest in the region. It is home to a couple of endangered and threatened plant species, as well as the world’s smallest lizard – the Virgin Islands dwarf gecko. Two trails lead up to the Gorda Peak, which at 1,370 ft (417 m) is Virgin Gorda’s highest point, and where a lookout tower offers panoramic views of the BVI. On a clear day, it is possible to see all the way to Anegada in the northeast. A picnic table has been placed under the shade of a mango tree where the two trails meet, and provides a pleasant place for lunch or snacks. During the hike uphill, the forest grows more moist with the increasing altitude, and the vegetation changes from species that survive only in dry scrubby areas to those that thrive in slightly damp soil.
t A diver exploring the barnacle-encrusted wreck within RMS Rhone Marine Park
The Royal Mail Steamer Rhone was wrecked here in an 1867 hurricane with more than 100 people on board. Today, it is the only marine national park in the British Virgin Islands, and the main dive destination there. The 310-ft (95-m) vessel sits in two parts at depths ranging from 20 ft to 80 ft (6m to 25m). Much of the ship is intact, with parts such as the propeller, boilers, and more still identifiable. The ship’s anchor broke away from the rest of the boat, and this forms the second portion of the marine park. The Rhone is encrusted with marine growth and serves as a home to many types of fish and marine life. Dive trips depart from Tortola and other British Virgin Islands, as well as from St. Thomas and St. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Those who wish to dive the site need a permit from the National Parks Trust.
EXPERIENCE Virgin Islands
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Drink Foxy’s Bar Run by legendary Foxy Callwood, this party-like beach bar is the number one draw on Jost Van Dyke, and can be reached only by yacht, water taxi, or on the ferries from West End on Tortola. Visitors on a day trip can enjoy lunch, Foxy’s own style of Caribbean rum cocktails, plus beach time and a swim in the warm waters of Great Bay. There are barbecues on Friday and Saturday evenings. ⌂ Great Bay, Jost Van Dyke ∑ foxysbvi.com |