t St.Gerard’s Catholic Church with Wallblake House in background
t St.Gerard’s Catholic Church with Wallblake House in background
Anguilla’s capital, The Valley is so small it barely seems like a town. Along the broad Queen Elizabeth Avenue, there are a few civic buildings, including government offices, the post office, and a couple of shopping malls. At the foot of the street is the open-sided People’s Market, where fruit and vegetables are sold.
The oldest section of the town is Coronation Avenue, which runs up the hill toward Crocus Bay. Here you’ll find a handful of the town’s original stone buildings, including the Warden’s Place, a former sugar plantation greathouse that has an excellent bakery.
Toward the airport, is St. Gerard’s Catholic Church with its three pebble-dashed arches. The adjoining building, Wallblake House, is one of the oldest buildings in Anguilla. Built in 1787, this old plantation house has been restored. It has a stone foundation and a clapboard upper set behind a picket fence. The house was donated to a Catholic church in 1959 but proved too small to hold services.
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⌂ Wallblake Road ∑ wallblake.ai
Extending almost 2 miles (3 km) along the northern coastline, this is Anguilla’s best and liveliest beach. Backed by sea grape and coconut palms, Shoal Bay East’s swath of powdery white sand shelves into translucent waters, and frequently features in lists of the world’s best beaches. A sprinkling of brilliant bars, restaurants, and loungers cater for the handful of hotels and day-trippers from St Martin, but peaceful spots are not hard to find. The protected reef offshore provides opportunities for snorkeling, diving, and glass-bottom kayaking.
“The Fountain,” which is the island’s most important pre-Columbian site, lies off the eastern end of the beach. A ceremonial Arawak cavern, it is currently closed to the public.
The number of idyllic beaches in Anguilla.
Around the headland west of Rendezvous Bay, lies the sweeping arc of Cove Bay. It is the base for the island’s kitesurfing school, and bobbing offshore is the aqua park – essentially a floating obstacle course – which provides hours of fun for kids.
Two bays farther west lies Shoal Bay West, which is smaller and more secluded than its more famous north-coast namesake. Its most prominent landmark is the ultra-modern Covecastles. Though no longer in operation, these sci-fi-looking villas, designed by award-winning architect Myron Goldfinger, are still a sight to behold.
Road Bay is Anguilla’s deep-water port, but the sand is as good as the sand on some of the best beaches on the other islands. Set in a cliff-bound bay, the west-facing harbor and its small settlement, Sandy Ground, are well protected. The long stretch of sand is magnificent, backed by beachfront restaurants and bars, houses, and the pier. Offshore, fishing and pleasure boats can be seen anchored in the bay. Around the lagoon, which was once used for salt cultivation, the low mud walls that sectioned the salt pans can still be seen. Salt was once a thriving Anguillan industry and a major export until the 1980s. The Anguilla National Trust conducts a Heritage Tour (by appointment) to many heritage sites and places of natural importance. Tours take between 20 minutes and 4 hours and are fully customized.
t A woman examining exhibits included on Sandy Ground’s Heritage Tour
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⌂ The Valley # 8am–4pm Mon–Fri ∑ axanationaltrust.com
Restored after being flattened in 2017 by Hurricane Irma, this museum has an interesting, if eccentric, collection of coins, pottery, and photographs that illustrate local life through Arawak and colonial times to recent years.
Opposite the museum lies East End Pond, one of Anguilla’s top birding spots. Specialist bird-watching tours to the site and other island wetlands can be arranged through the Anguilla National Trust or Nature Explorer.
EXPERIENCE Anguilla
Cheddie’s Carving Studio
⌂ 0.8 miles (1.3 km) N of Cove Bay
This West End Village location features wonderfully unique driftwood sculptures of local wildlife.
Lynne Bernbaum
⌂ Sandy Ground 2640
Caribbean-inspired fine art originals and giclées by this talented, Sandy Ground-based artist.
Devonish Gallery
⌂ The Cove, West End Village
Head here for fabulous wood and bronze sculptures and ceramics by renowned artist Courtney Devonish.
Savannah Gallery
⌂ Coronation Ave, The Valley 2640
Unique work by local artists using a variety of media is showcased here.
t Brightly painted boats moored off the shore of Island Harbor
Some 2 miles (3 km) east of Shoal Bay Village lies Island Harbor, an active fishing community, where brightly colored boats bob at anchor out in the bay. For the adventurous, night excursions in LED-illuminated glass-bottom kayaks are a novel attraction (www.anguillakayak.com).
More conventionally, the Anguilla National Trust (www.axanationaltrust.com) arranges hikes and visits to some of the few archaeological sites in this area, including to “Big Spring.” This is the island’s second most important Arawak site; a water source and a ceremonial cave, it contains over a hundred petroglyphs, though most are indistinct and in need of restoration.
Beyond the settlement, toward the end of the island, are some remote beaches, including Captain’s Bay and Savannah Bay.
A popular day-trip destination off the north coast of Anguilla, Prickly Pear Cays are two rocky islets separated by a narrow channel. They are home to important colonies of nesting seabirds such as laughing gulls, brown boobies, and the elegant red-billed tropicbird. The critically endangered Lesser Antillean iguana has also been reintroduced here.
It is primarily the gorgeous soft-sand beach and calm clear waters of Prickly Pear East that draw the visitors, however. A couple of laid-back bar-restaurants dish up fresh lobster, offer sun loungers, and even massages. Those craving more action can rent kayaks and snorkel gear.
Restaurants offer transportation to and from Sandy Ground, while the Anguilla National Trust arranges tours to the even more remote seabird colonies of Sombrero Island (Hat Island). The island was so named because it was once shaped like a traditional Mexican hat – but this profile was indelibly altered following the guano mining boom of the mid- to late-1800s.
Anguilla’s West End plays host to some of the island’s swankiest hotels and resorts, as well as more spectacular beaches. Chief among them is Rendezvous Bay, a jaw-dropping crescent of pink sand lapped by sparkling aquamarine waters. The back of the beach is dominated by the neo-Mediterranean architecture of the CuisinArt Resort, a luxurious hotel and spa with pristine white walls that stand out against the sea. The resort features a Greg Norman-designed golf course. A favorite spot among locals, Rendezvous offers impressive views across to St. Martin.
Insider Tip
Every March, local reggae artist Bankie Banx hosts the annual Moonsplash Festival. Staged in his ramshackle beach bar in Rendezvous Bay, it is the Caribbean’s oldest independent music festival.
From the island’s highest point at Crocus Hill – a mere 213 ft (85 m) above sea level – a steep descent leads into the delightful Crocus Bay. Historically, this has always been a locals’ beach, where Anguillians from The Valley take exercise in the early morning and pelicans glide across the waves in search of fish. But with the arrival of Da’Vida – an award-winning restaurant, bar, and spa – it has become a popular spot with tourists also, who can rent kayaks and standup paddleboards in the area.
Many head for neighboring Little Bay, a diminutive, secluded cove to the north, enclosed by dramatic cliffs and reachable only from the sea. With a mere sliver of a beach, the main attractions lie beneath the sheltered waters, since it is one of the best snorkeling areas on the island, with steeper drop-offs than elsewhere. Little Bay is particularly rewarding in the late afternoon sun, when the cove is at its most serene. For those who like a bit of action, a jump or dive off “The Rock” is a must.
EXPERIENCE Anguilla
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EAT Blanchard’s Beach Shack The perfect spot to watch the sunset with a cocktail in hand. There is a varied and delicious beach food menu. ⌂ Meads Bay ¢ Sun ∑ blanchardsrestaurant.com/beach-shack \\\ Da’Vida Located bang on the beach, with a Caribbean-Asian fusion menu that rivals the views. ⌂ Crocus Bay ¢ Sun & Mon evening ∑ davidaanguilla.com \\\ Veya Restaurant One of Anguilla’s finest restaurants, offering creative veggie lunches and nightly live music. ⌂ Sandy Ground ¢ Sun ∑ veya-axa.com \\\ |