t Costumed dancers taking part in Port of Spain’s carnival parade
t Costumed dancers taking part in Port of Spain’s carnival parade
Gridlocked with traffic but bubbling with life, Trinidad’s capital is home to the island’s best restaurants and nightlife, as well as a vibrant cultural scene. Downtown’s centerpiece is Independence Square, a shop-lined boulevard with the Brian Lara Promenade – named after Trinidad’s greatest ever cricketer – in the middle. A short walk from here is the state-of-the-art Central Bank Museum, with interactive exhibits including the history of money, local currency, and works from the Bank’s extensive art collection. To the north, busy Frederick Street threads up past Woodford Square, a grassy park that is home to an impromptu speakers’ corner known as the University. On the square’s western side stands the Red House, the imposing Neo-Renaissance parliament building. At the northern end of Frederick Street, the National Museum and Art Gallery houses a collection on local history and geology, an art gallery, and the imposing National Academy for the Performing Arts (NAPA), the venue for concerts and other cultural events. Past the museum are the wide spaces of Queen’s Park Savannah, the focal point of the annual Carnival parade. At its northern edge, the Royal Botanic Gardens are home to some 700 trees and exotic plants that attract plenty of birds. The avifauna is even more prolific at the nearby Caroni Swamp Bird Sanctuary, where the main draw is the stunning scarlet ibis. Daily boat tours leave around 4pm – in time to witness thousands of ibis returning to roost.
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⌂ Eric Williams Plaza # 9am–3pm Mon–Fri ∑ central-bank.org.tt
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⌂ Cnr Frederick & Keate sts § 868 623 0339 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sat, 2–6pm Sun
⌂ Circular Rd § 868 622 4221 # 6am–6pm daily
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⌂ Off Uriah Butler Hwy # 9am–4pm daily ∑ caronibirdsanctuary.com
Port of Spain’s playground, and a haven for yacht owners, the Chaguaramas area occupies the island’s western tip. To the north is a national park centered around Tucker Valley, with its bamboo groves, rainforests, and hiking trails. On the southern coast, where U.S. troops built a base during World War II, the Military History and Aerospace Museum chronicles the island’s military history. Spreading into the Gulf of Paria, the Bocas islands are a favored spot for palatial holiday homes. Gaspar Grande holds the Gasparee Cave, a huge cavern with some impressive stalactites and a pool at its base.
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⌂ Western Main Rd, Chaguaramas § 868 634 4391 # 9am–5pm Tue–Sun
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⌂ Gasparee Island
The closest thing to a resort on Trinidad’s northern coast is Blanchisseuse. With its upper and lower villages, this rural area is backed by a string of wild beaches that are favored by surfers. It offers peace and quiet, a few appealing places to stay and dine, and swimming in the sea and the sparklingly clean Marianne River. The river also has a number of waterfalls upstream, reached by an easy 30-minute walk. It is possible to hike from Blanchisseuse along the undeveloped coastline to the east, toward spectacular Paria Bay without a guide.
EXPERIENCE Trinidad and Tobago
Doubles
Two baras (fried flat bread) oozing curry channa (chickpeas).
Roti
Stretchy flatbread “skin” wrapped around a filling.
Chow
Chopped fruit spiced up with lime juice, cilantro, and some hot pepper.
Bake ‘n’ Shark
A tasty fish roll daubed with local condiments.
Kurma
Ginger-spiced fried dough sticks.
t Silhouetted palm trees as the sun sets on Maracas Bay
Trinidad’s most popular beach, Maracas Bay is a palm-lined sweep of fine yellow sand, backed by forested hills. Quiet during the week, it becomes the place to be on weekends, when locals set up camp under beach umbrellas and enjoy drinks and food, such as the must-try Bake ‘n’ Shark.
East of Maracas is another lovely spot for swimming: Las Cuevas, the north coast’s longest beach. Quieter than Maracas but with the same facilities – its only downside is the sandfly population.
t The ecolodge at Asa Wright Nature Centre
High in the rainforested hills of the Northern Range, this center is a renowned ecolodge that offers some of the best bird-watching in the Caribbean. Spread out around a colonial great house, the 2-sq-mile (5-sq-km) pristine forest is home to a multitude of birds and animals. Bird-watchers can see up to 159 species of birds, some with stunning plumages. Non-guests can visit during the day to tour the immediate grounds and for lunch.
t The Asa Wright Nature Centre, Home to many exotic bird species and diverse flora
t A guided boat tour through the Bush Island Forest Reserve
Home to the majority of the island’s East Indian population, Central and South Trinidad have some stunning natural attractions. Lining the east coast is the spectacular 14 mile (22 km) Manzanilla Beach, backed with a dense coconut plantation that gives the area its name, The Cocal. Inland from here, the threatened Nariva Swamp extends across 23 sq miles (60 sq km). A mix of reed-lined marshes, mangroves, and the Bush Bush Island Forest Reserve, this wetland area – Trinidad and Tobago’s largest – is best visited during the rains. Guided tours can take nature-lovers in boats or kayaks along channels where caiman, anacondas, and peaceful manatee lurk.
Southern Trinidad is oil country, and roadside derricks and offshore rigs have become part of the scenery. The geological richness bubbles to the surface at La Brea, site of the world’s largest Pitch Lake. Covering an area of around eight soccer pitches, it contains an estimated 10 million tons of asphalt. A guide from the visitor center will ensure that you experience the lake’s disconcerting hissing in a safe way without being sucked under in gooey, more liquid sections.
On the northern outskirts of Trinidad’s second city, San Fernando, visitors can observe rare birdlife at the Point-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust. Also in the area is the Maha Sabha Indian Caribbean Museum, stuffed full of documents, artifacts, and photos chronicling the country’s Indian-Trinidadian experience.
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⌂ Southern Trunk Rd § 868 651 1232 # 9am–5pm daily
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⌂ Off the Southern Main Road § 868 658 4200 # 10am–5pm daily ∑ papwildfowltrust.org
⌂ Waterloo # 10am–5pm Wed–Fri ∑ icmtt.org
Insider Tip
Visitors on a turtle watch need to maintain a respectful distance and should not use flash photography. It is also imperative not to block the female’s path up the beach or back to the sea.
The northeast coastline is among Trinidad’s most beautiful. Matura, a windswept stretch of beach, is favored by leatherbacks as an egg-laying site. For a number of years a community turtle conservation project has been running (turtlevillagetrust.org). The community also offers visitors responsible guided turtle-watches, during the turtle season (March through August). Matura is also a great spot for beachcombing, but the waters are too rough to swim. Visitors can take a dip some 2 miles (3 km) north at Salybia, where Rio Seco Waterfall, surrounded by greenery, tumbles down into a wide, deep pool. Kayaking on the Salybia River is also offered in this area.
For proper beachlife, it is best to head another 12 miles (19 km) along the main road to Toco, a peaceful fishing village whose calm waters are protected by a reef.
The only good resort along the northeast coast is Grande Riviere, a laid-back spot by the rugged beach with a few staying and eating options. To the west, Shark River offers freshwater bathing.
There is enough asphalt in Pitch Lake to pave around 3,100 miles (5,000 km) of highway.
Hyped as Tobago’s best beach, Pigeon Point is certainly the island’s most quintessentially Caribbean seashore, with its white sand overhung by palm trees, and turquoise waters lapping at the base of its thatched-roof jetty. Controversially, it is also the only beach on the island to charge an entrance fee, which is used to maintain the excellent facilities. Pigeon Point is a great place to spend the day, especially for families with kids, since there is a play ground and the calm waters remain shallow almost up to the distant reef. There are stalls selling food and drinks, while jet skis and Hobie Cats buzz around offshore.
t Colorful seaside huts on Pigeon Point Beach
t A tour boat cruising through the calm waters off the shore of Crown Point
Tobago’s most touristy area, Crown Point holds a wealth of restaurants and hotels, as well as some great beaches. Within walking distance of the airport, Store Bay Beach is a compact stretch of white sand with gentle surf, clear waters, and several craft shops. There is also a line of restaurants that serve some delicious takeaway lunches and breakfasts.
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⌂ Store Bay Local Rd # Lifeguards and changing facilities: 10am–6pm daily
Insider Tip
Tackling a plate of crab and dumplings – the de facto national dish of Tobagonians – is a must; head to one of the beachside stalls at Store Bay. Eating with your hands can be messy, so pick up a few extra serviettes.
Northeast of Crown Point, Shirvan Road shoots off the main Milford Road toward Buccoo, a faded fishing village that plays host to the Sunday School outdoor party each Sunday night. This vibrant street party begins every week with music from a local steel band orchestra.
Just offshore, Buccoo Reef is the island’s most heavily visited patch of coral, with double-decker glass-bottom boats making regular sorties from all the beaches in the area. Though the 40-odd species of coral have suffered a lot of damage from storms and human encroachment, there is still some color to be seen alongside a host of gorgeous tropical fish such as butterfly and parrot fish. If leaving the boat to snorkel during a tour, it’s important not to put your feet down, in order to avoid causing any further damage to the fragile environment.
To the south of the reef is the crystal-clear water of the Nylon Pool sandbar, where swimming is a thoroughly refreshing treat.
The steel pan is said to be the only acoustic instrument that was invented in the 20th century.
EXPERIENCE Trinidad and Tobago
The sound of sweet steel pan is synonymous with Trinidad and Tobago, and visiting a panyard (where pan bands practice) can be an exhilarating experience. Made from oil drums, pans vary in size and musical range from the tenor pan to the bass, which consists of a set of six full-size oil drums. Band sizes also vary, with some containing over 100 pannists. Every year, soloists and bands compete for prizes and bragging rights in the annual Panorama competition in Queen’s Park Savannah just before Carnival.
Past Buccoo is Mount Irvine, a coastal village that is home to Tobago’s first golf course, the 18-hole Mount Irvine Golf Course. Slight farther along is Mount Irvine Bay Beach, a stretch of yellow sand overhung by sea grape and palm trees, and with covered gazebos for picnicking. Other amenities include washroom facilities and a handful of appealing restaurants and bars. The waves here are some of the best in Tobago, making it a surfers’ paradise between November and April. At the other side of the beach is a sandy area that offers lovely swimming and good snorkeling over the rocks and coral. Beyond Mount Irvine, the coast road sweeps past two more excellent places to swim, Grafton and Turtle Beaches. Both have long, wide strands, crystal water, and are perfect for a day by the sea.
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⌂ Shirvan Rd ∑ mtirvine.com
Just past the Mount Irvine Golf Course, Orange Hill Road leads up into the hills and to the intriguing Kimme Museum, the turreted, mural-decorated former home and studio of German sculptor Luise Kimme, who lived in Tobago for some 30 years, until her death in 2013. Inspired by local life and folklore, her stunning pieces are each sculpted from a whole oak trunk, and depict everything from the mythical La Diablesse to Nijinsky dancers, and dancing couples.
t Colorful boats littering the golden sands of Castara’s beach
Castara is the first point of interest along this stretch of inaccessible coastline; a beautiful mini-resort that has grown up around a placid fishing village and a gorgeous curve of beach. It is a laid-back and attractive spot, and is ideal for spending some time relaxing, with a couple of great beachside eateries and a sprinkling of guesthouses overlooking the bay. There is enough space so it rarely feels crowded; however, if need be, it is possible to seek some solitude in the adjoining Little Bay. Castara is also one of the points from which boat tours are available for the various excellent beaches and snorkeling spots located nearby.
t The dramatic curve of Englishman’s Bay, backed by one of the world’s longest protected rainforests
The countryside beyond Castara becomes noticeably less developed, with the Northside Road twisting through jungle-smothered hillsides with hardly a building in sight. The first place to stop is Englishman’s Bay, a stunning horseshoe of yellow sand that lies between untouched rainforest on one side and emerald waters on the other. The offshore reef here offers good snorkeling opportunities.
Just above the fishing village of Parlatuvier, people can stop at a roadside parking spot for some pretty views of the bay below, with fishing boats bobbing in the water and terraced smallholdings rolling up the hillside.
Beyond this village is Bloody Bay, which offers some fine coastal views, with the spectacular Sisters Rocks lying just offshore. At the bay’s rough, yellow-sand beach, a turnoff swings inland leading to the Tobago Forest Reserve. Moving east along the coast, visitors finally reach Charlotteville at the island’s northeast tip.
The scenic views are a bonus during the informative tours of this small cocoa estate, where visitors can learn about the whole chocolate-making process from bean to bar, finishing up with a tasting. Although the business was established in 2006, it took five years for the first bar to be produced. The plantation grows the organic cacao, which is turned into award-winning artisanal chocolate by a chocolatier in France. The popular estate tours run weekly from December to April; outside of this they are by advance appointment only (email to book), and will be run only for a minimum of ten people.
Tobago’s capital, Scarborough, is a hotbed of activity compared to the rest of the island, with taxis and shoppers crowding the streets, vendors setting up their stalls at the roadside, and plenty of traffic streaming to and from the busy ferry port. The best place for shopping is the market, set back from the seafront and accessed from Gardenside Street. It is busiest on Fridays and Saturdays, but visitors will always find piles of exotic fruits and vegetables and other assorted general goods.
On the other side of Gardenside Street is the vast Botanical Garden, its smooth lawns and fishponds offering quiet respite from the clamor. It is open every day.
Scarborough’s other main draw is Fort King George. A collection of handsome, restored colonial-era brick buildings surrounding the modern lighthouse, the complex features many cannons and offers sweeping views down the windward coast and over Scarborough. The fort is also home to the small but interesting Tobago Museum, which has some absorbing exhibits on the island’s local history.
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⌂ Fort King George § 868 639 3970 # 9am–4:30pm Mon–Fri
EXPERIENCE Trinidad and Tobago
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Eat Veni Mangé This hospitable restaurant has a lively vibe, with painted wooden tables and walls laden with local art. The Creole-influenced menu is delicious – try the grilled fish with tamarind or chadon beni sauce. ⌂ 67A Ariapita Ave, Port of Spain § 868 624 4597 ¢ Sat & Sun \\\ Makara Creative modern Caribbean cuisine is beautifully presented and served in style at this sophisticated eatery that overlooks Buccoo’s bay. Sample elegant cocktails as the sun goes down, and the waves wash gently over the rocks below. ⌂ 55 Auchenskeoch Rd, Buccoo ¢ Tue ∑ makaratobago.com \\\ Kariwak Village The ambience is relaxed and rustic at this open-sided, thatched-roof restaurant. The menu is set daily, based on whatever is freshly available, with a prix fixe menu featuring plenty of local vegetables. On weekends, a dinner buffet is served, accompanied by live music. ⌂ Store Bay Local Rd, Crown Point ∑ kariwak.com \\\ |
In comparison with the tranquil leeward side of the island, bordered by the calm Caribbean Sea, the windward coast is more rugged, washed by pounding Atlantic waves and with strong currents that make some beaches out of bounds to swimmers. The best place to experience the sea is King’s Bay, fringed by a forest of palms and with calm water and fine volcanic sand. To the southwest there is another chance to get wet at Argyle Waterfall, the island’s highest three-tiered cascade with several pools. Otherwise, the windward coast is best appreciated as a scenic – if winding – drive, its pretty villages with board houses teetering at the edge of the cliffs or spreading out on either side of the coastal road.
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⌂ Windward Rd # 9am–5pm daily; last tour 4pm
t Visitors exploring the lush, thickly packed greenery of Tobago Forest Reserve
The Tobago Forest Reserve, which is the oldest protected rainforest in the Western Hemisphere, comprises approximately 22 sq miles (57 sq km) of land in the northern half of the island, accessible via a scenic road. Much of the area cannot be reached, but from Gilpin Trace – marked by a huge rock by the roadside – visitors can follow a trail into the close-packed forest, with its towering trees and greenish light filtering through the thick canopy. Traveling with a guide is recommended and you can hire one at the entrance to the reserve.
The red color of the scarlet ibis – Trinidad’s national bird – comes from carotene in its diet of shellfish.
Tucked into a protected bay at Tobago’s extreme northeast tip, Charlotteville is a slow-paced place, with tourism and fishing coexisting easily as the main industries. Tumbling down a steep hillside, the village meets the sea at the yellow sands and calm waters of Man O’ War Bay.
Overlooking the bay to the west is the Cambleton Battery, while to the east, via a rough track around the headland, is Pirate’s Bay – perhaps Tobago’s prettiest beach, entirely undeveloped and with excellent snorkeling spots.
t A diver hovering above an impressive reef formation off the shore from Speyside
On the island’s east coast, Speyside offers some of Tobago’s best diving and snorkeling. The viewing area on the Scarborough road gives a bird’s-eye view of the brightly painted village and the offshore islands, including Little Tobago rising from the blue seas.
It’s possible to see some incredibly diverse marine life among Speyside’s reefs, while above ground there is also some great bird-watching.
As one of the Caribbean’s main seabird sanctuaries, Little Tobago is a highlight for bird-watchers – though this protected islet will enthrall even the most casual nature lover, thronging as it does with colonies of brown and red-footed boobies, terns, and magnificent frigate birds (especially impressive when the males inflate their scarlet pouches). But the stars of the show are the red-billed tropicbirds, with their trademark scarlet bills, dazzling white plumage tinged with black, and trailing tail feathers. During the nesting season (December through March) their aerial acrobatic displays are captivating. Glass-bottom boats are easily rented in Speyside, taking tourists out to the island on a guided trip that may also include a spot of snorkeling at the delightful Angel Reef, though serious bird-watchers can engage a naturalist guide and focus on the avifauna.
The main viewpoint sits at the top of the small island, affording great views back to Pigeon Peak on the mainland. Though the birds are the main draw, the steep-sided forested outcrop is home to plenty of intriguing reptiles – such as green iguanas and a host of geckos and lizards – and curious plants, such as giant anthuriums and Texas madrones, the bark of which exfoliates to reveal colorful smooth underlayers.
EXPERIENCE Trinidad and Tobago
Flagstaff Hill
A former military lookout, offering views across both Atlantic and Caribbean waters.
Glasgow Bar
It’s hard to beat this breezy cliffside setting above Parlatuvier Bay.
Caribbean Kitchen
An open-sided veranda that offers unmatched views of the sunset.
Fort King George
The steep climb from Scarborough is worth it; look out for the rugged landscapes to the east.