n This section divides Seville into four colour-coded sightseeing areas, as shown on this map, plus an area across the river.
One of the world’s most romantic cities, Seville is made up of diverse, but equally beguiling, neighbourhoods. The heart of the city lies to the east of the Río Guadalquivir and it’s here that you’ll find the city’s big-name sights, but the area to the west of the river is just as rewarding.
n This section divides Seville into four colour-coded sightseeing areas, as shown on this map, plus an area across the river.
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
Once the city’s port, the area between the Avenida de la Constitución and the Río Guadalquivir wears its seafaring past on its sleeve. It’ll come as no surprise then that El Arenal has some fine freidurias (fried fish takeaways), where everything from cod to cuttlefish comes in a paper cone for you to savour while watching the boats on the river. Back on the cobbled streets, old-fashioned tapas bars and abacerias (grocery stores), selling jars of jam and hulking legs of marbled Iberian ham, stand side by side with slick, modern gastropubs.
Best for Old-fashioned bars and restaurants
Home to Museo de Bellas Artes
Experience A bike ride along the riverfront
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
t The glowing Torre del Oro, on the Río Guadalquivir
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
Many of Seville’s best-known sights are grouped here in the oldest part of the city, including the cathedral and royal palace. Spreading northeast from these great monuments is an enchanting maze of cobblestone streets. Narrow walkways meander into hidden courtyards, where window boxes are ablaze with flowers and the strains of flamenco and scent of jasmine waft through the air. Further north, busy Calle Sierpes is the city’s favourite shopping street, lined with traditional stores selling hats, fans and mantillas (lace headdresses).
Best for Iconic monuments
Home to Seville Cathedral and La Giralda, Real Alcázar
Experience A guided tour of the cathedral to admire the stained-glass windows up close
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
t Cycling down one of the labyrinthine streets in Santa Cruz
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
Often overlooked by visitors, the north of Seville is perhaps the most off-beat corner of the city. Artsy bookshops, independent boutiques, Moroccan teahouses, micro-theatres and vintage stores are found alongside magnificent churches, palatial residences and modest apartments. Bisecting the area is the wide promenade of Alameda de Hércules. Lined with trendy bars and restaurants, it’s always buzzing, and street markets, live music and dance, and all kinds of entertainment only add to the atmosphere.
Best for Experiencing local life
Home to Historic churches and contemporary constructions
Experience Rifling through the bizarre selection of goods for sale at the Thursday-morning flea market on Calle de la Feria
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
t Fresco of the coronation of the Virgin Mary, Basílica de la Macarena
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
This lush area is the ideal place to take a break from the bustling city, with its sparkling arabesque fountains, peaceful lagoons, bougainvillea-covered pergolas and sprawling grassy lawns. Take a stroll, enjoy a picnic or hire a boat to explore the mini-canal encircling the majestic Plaza de España, with its colourful ceramics. And there’s more – the pabellóns (pavilions) built for the 1929 exhibition now house museums, atmospheric Moroccan teahouses and, after dark, neon-lit, open-air nightclubs.
Best for Leafy strolls
Home to Parque María Luisa
Experience Rowing a boat along the Plaza de España’s canal, passing under the fairy-tale bridges
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
t Walking along the shaded colonnade on the Plaza de España
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
The other side of the Río Guadalquivir seems a world away from central Seville. Triana’s quiet cobbled streets are home to historic potteries and intimate flamenco peñas, resounding with the clacking of castanets and stomping of feet. To the north is La Cartuja, which was once best known for its monastery but now draws visitors for the Torre Sevilla. Disparagingly christened “The Lipstick” by locals due to its incongruous form on the city’s skyline, the tower’s observation deck has amazing views of Seville – although Triana’s riverfront cafés and bars afford equally inspiring vistas.
Best for Authentic flamenco
Home to Triana
Experience Using a kiln to make your own ceramic tile in Triana
Getting to Know EXPERIENCE Seville
t Ceramic figure on a house in Triana