t Sunset over the shore at Chipiona, with its 19th-century lighthouse
As you drive along the N440 between Algeciras and Jerez, Medina Sidonia appears startlingly white atop a conical hill. The town was taken from the Moors in 1264 by Alfonso X, and during the 15th century the Guzmán family were established as the dukes of Medina Sidonia to defend the territory between here and the Bay of Cádiz. After the reconquista the family grew rich from investments in the Americas, and Medina Sidonia became one of the most important ducal seats in Spain. Many parts of the town’s medieval walls still stand and cobbled alleys nestle beneath them.
The Iglesia de Santa María la Coronada is the town’s most impressive building. Begun on the foundations of a castle in the 15th century, after the reconquista, it is a fine example of Andalucían Gothic. Inside is a collection of religious works of art dating from the Renaissance, including paintings and a charming retablo with beautifully carved panels.
t Sunset over the shore at Chipiona, with its 19th-century lighthouse
A lively little resort town, Chipiona is approached through sherry vineyards. It has a great beach and a holiday atmosphere in the summer. Days on the beach are followed by a paseo along the quay or in the Moorish old town, where cafés and ice-cream parlours stay open well past midnight. There are also street entertainers and horse-drawn carriages. The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla, the main church, has a natural spring feeding a fountain, and an adjoining cloister decorated with 17th-century azulejos.
t The Museo de Manzanilla at the Bodegas Barbadillo in Sanlúcar de Barrameda
A fishing port at the mouth of the Guadalquivir river, Sanlúcar is overlooked by the Moorish Castillo de Santiago. The Parque Nacional de Doñana, over the river, can be reached by boat from the riverside quay. From here Columbus set off on his third trip to the Americas, in 1498, and in 1519 Ferdinand Magellan left the port with the intention of circumnavigating the globe.
However, Sanlúcar is now best known for its manzanilla, a light, dry sherry from, among other producers, Bodegas Barbadillo. Visitors to this bodega can sip a copita (little glass) of manzanilla and enjoy the local shellfish, langostinos. There are guided tours in Spanish and English every day but Monday, as well as a museum on site, the Museo de Manzanilla, which traces the history of the drink. It’s a must for any sherry lover.
Other sights in the town include the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la O, which has superb Mudéjar portals, with heavily worked stone reliefs.
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⌂ Calle Luis de Eguilaz 11 # Apr–Oct: 10am–3pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm Mon–Sat ∑ barbadillo.com
Steps lead to the top of the Chipiona lighthouse, the tallest in Spain.
Sheltered from the Atlantic wind and waves of the Bay of Cádiz, El Puerto de Santa María is a tranquil town which has burgeoned as one of the main ports for the export of sherry. The bodegas of sherry companies, such as Terry and Osborne, can be visited for tours and tasting.
Among the town’s sights are the 13th-century Castillo San Marcos and the Plaza de Toros – one of the largest and most famous bullrings in Spain. Whatever your opinion is of bullfighting, it’s an impressive building. The main square, the Plaza Mayor, is presided over by the 13th-century, Gothic Iglesia Mayor Prioral, which is worth a look for its unusual choir. Scattered around the town are fine old palacios bearing the coats of arms of wealthy families who prospered in the port during colonial times.
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⌂ Calle de los Toneleros 1 § 956 15 15 00 # Mon–Fri (phone to arrange)
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⌂ Calle de los Moros 7 § 956 86 91 00 # Daily (reservation required)
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⌂ Plaza Alfonso X El Sabio § 956 85 17 51 # For tours, Jul–mid-Sep: 11:30am Wed–Mon & 6pm Mon–Sat; mid-Sep–Jun: 11:30am Tue, Thu & Sat
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⌂ Plaza Elias Ahuja 7 § 956 86 11 88 # 10am–2pm & 4–7pm Mon–Fri
EXPERIENCE Cádiz and Málaga
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eat Casa Bigote Salty air and sandy planks set the mood at this seafood eatery in Sanlúcar de Barrameda. ⌂ Calle Pórtico Bajo de Guia 10, Sanlúcar de Barrameda ∑ restaurantecasabigote.com ¡¡¡ Pantalán G Enjoy views of the marina and lots of fish at this El Puerto de Santa María eatery. There’s live music at the weekend. ⌂ Avenida de la Libertad, El Puerto de Santa María ∑ pantalang.com ¡¡¡ El Jardín del Califa Mouthwatering Moroccan dishes are served in the jasmine-scented courtyard of this restaurant in Vejer de la Frontera. ⌂ Plaza de España 16, Vejer de la Frontera ∑ califavejer.com ¡¡¡ |
Attractively located on a hilltop above Barbate, Vejer de la Frontera was one of the first places occupied by the Muslim invaders in AD 711, shortly after they had defeated the Visigoths in battle close by.
The oldest part of town is enclosed by an irregular wall that is protected by three towers and entered by four gates. Within the walled area are the Arab castle and the parish church, the Iglesia Parroquial del Divino Salvador, which was built on the site of a mosque between the 14th and 16th centuries, in a mix of Gothic and Mudéjar styles.
Later buildings outside the walls include the Palacio del Marqués de Tamaron, which is a 17th- to 18th-century stately home.
EXPERIENCE Cádiz and Málaga
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shop Barbate Mercado de Abastos The tuna at Barbate is said to be the finest in the world. Grab yourself a slab or a slice from the catch-of-the-day displays at this local market, where an abundance of fresh, locally sourced seafood, produce and meats are sold underneath hand-painted ceiling murals of seascapes. ⌂ Avenida de Andalucía 1, Barbate § 956 06 36 25# 9am–2pm Mon–Sat |
The Roman settlement of Baelo Claudia was estab-lished on the seashore in the 2nd century BC and gradually grew in importance through trade with North Africa and its fish salting and pickling works. Emperor Claudius (AD 41–54) elevated Baelo Claudia to the status of a municipality, but its prestige was short-lived, since it was effectively destroyed by an earthquake in the 2nd century AD and finally abandoned in the 6th century. The ruins, which include a theatre, a necropolis and several erect columns, sit in a picturesque spot next to a beautiful beach beside the small settlement of Bolonia.
t The atmospheric ruins of the ancient Roman town of Baelo Claudia
You’ll see windfarms aplenty around Tarifa; the wind blows with such reliable force here that it is used to drive electricity-generating wind turbines. Spain has the world’s second-highest installed capacity of windpower after Germany. Look out for Tarifa’s giant tuna weathervane on the sea front; the names of all the winds that blow in this region are inscribed at its base.
Europe’s wind- and kitesurfing capital takes its name from Tarif ben Maluk, an 8th- century Moorish commander.
The 10th-century Castillo de Guzmán el Bueno is the site of a legend. In 1292, Guzmán, who was defending Tarifa from the Moors, was told his hostage son would die if he did not surrender. Rather than give in, he threw down his dagger for the captors to use.
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⌂ Calle Guzmán el Bueno § 607 98 48 71 # Winter: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun; summer: 10am–4pm daily
t Watching the sunset from a bar at Zahara de los Atunes, near Barbate
The largest coastal settlement between Cádiz and Tarifa, Barbate stands at the mouth of the eponymous river, in an area of marshes and saltflats. There is not much of interest in the town itself, but two small tourist resorts attached to it are worth visiting.
A short way south down the coast is Zahara de los Atunes, which has grown up along one of the coast’s best beaches. Barbate’s culinary speciality is mojama, tuna (atún) that has been cured in the same way as jamón serrano. Inland from Zahara, around the main N340 coast road, are large swathes of wind turbines generating electricity for the national grid. The road north out of Barbate (past the fishing port) climbs over a headland fringed by cliffs and planted with dense pine woods to drop down to the small holiday resort of Los Caños de Meca, which began as a hippy hideaway in the 1970s and still has a carefree feel to it.
On a short sand spit nearby stands a lighthouse marking the Cabo de Trafalgar (Cape Trafalgar), which gave its name to the naval battle fought on 21 October 1805, when Britain’s Admiral Nelson decided to take on – and defeat – the combined, vastly superior fleet of Spanish and French ships.
This nature reserve is named after the alcornocales, cork oak trees, that are prevalent in many parts of it. They are easily identified because they will have been stripped of their lower bark, leaving the vivid red heartwood showing. The far south of the natural park is crossed by deep valleys called canutos, in which rare vestiges of Europe’s ancient fern-rich forests cling on.
Natural beauty aside, the area has a few towns worth visiting, including Jimena de la Frontera, Castellar de la Frontera and Medina Sidonia, plus several caves.
t Hiking on the slopes of Parque Natural de Los Alcornocales
Great View
If you climb the high El Aljibe massif in the Los Alcornocales park, or take the N340 coast road that skirts it from Los Barrios to Facinas, you’ll get superb views across the Strait of Gibraltar to Africa.
t The Rock of Gibraltar, known to the Romans as one of the two Pillars of Hercules
EXPERIENCE Cádiz and Málaga
t The runway of Gibraltar’s airport and the key sights found on the Rock
The high, rocky headland of Gibraltar was signed over to Britain at the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. Today, about 4 million people stream to and fro across the border between Gibraltar and La Línea de la Concepción in Spain every year to visit this speck of England, only 6.7 km2 (2.6 sq miles) in area, bolted on to Andalucía. Pubs, British high street names and “bobbies” on the beat all give a quaint air.
Built on the foundations of Moorish baths, the Gibraltar Museum charts the territory’s history, which has been shaped by its strategic position and geography. The territory is dominated by the so-called Rock of Gibraltar. Halfway up this promontory are an 8th-century Moorish castle, known as The Keep, which was used as a prison until 2010, and the Siege Tunnels, an 80-km (50-mile) network housing storerooms and barracks, used when Spanish and French forces blockaded Gibraltar in the late 18th century. During World War II, Gibraltar was of enormous strategic importance, controlling and defending the gateway to the Mediterranean Sea (today, half the world’s shipping trade uses this narrow strait). Most of the civilian population was evacuated, mainly to London but also to Jamaica, for the duration of the conflict. St Michael’s Cave, which then served as a military hospital, is now used as a venue for classical concerts.
A cable car runs from the centre of Gibraltar town to the Top of the Rock, at 450 m (1,475 ft). The Apes’ Den, north of Europa Point – Gibraltar’s southernmost tip – is home to the Rock’s famous tailless apes. (Strictly speaking they are monkeys, a five-troop colony of Barbary macaques, which originate from Morocco.) Legend says that the British will keep Gibraltar only as long as the apes remain here.
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⌂ 18 Bombhouse Lane # 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat ¢ Public hols ∑ gibmuseum.gi
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⌂ Upper Rock Area # 9:30am–6:15pm daily
Anglo-Dutch forces seized Gibraltar in 1704, as part of the War of the Spanish Succession, and Britain was then granted the Rock “in perpetuity”. An attempt to wrestle it back by Spanish and French forces during the American War of Independence failed. As the gateway to the Mediterranean, Gibraltar was essential to Britain in the age of Empire. In a 1967 referendum, residents voted overwhelmingly to stay under British rule. Tensions over Gibraltar eased for a while, but the spectre of Britain’s exit from the European Union has caused renewed hostility.
La Línea is a town on the Spanish side of the border with Gibraltar. Its name, “The Line”, refers to the old walls that once formed the frontier, but were demolished during the Napoleonic wars to prevent the French using them for defence. Now it is a lively trading town, with several hotels popular with those wishing to avoid the higher prices in Gibraltar.
Lying just above Gibraltar on the Costa del Sol, this exclusive residential seaside town is popular with wealthy Gibraltarians, who commute to the Rock, and with affluent financiers, politicians and minor royalty from elsewhere in Europe. The best place to get an idea of the affluence of this area is at Sotogrande’s marina, which is filled with expensive, gleaming yachts and lined with excellent seafood restaurants.
Nearby, as one might expect, there are several immaculately manicured golf courses, including the Real Club de Sotogrande.
Hidden Gem
World War II buffs can explore several bunkers while strolling around Reina Sofia Park in La Línea de la Concepción. To enter the bunkers, book a guided tour through the tourist information centre.
t Classic whitewashed buildings at Arcos de la Frontera, once a well-defended hill town
EXPERIENCE Cádiz and Málaga
t Stark white dwellings in Arcos de la Frontera
Arcos has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Its strategic position encouraged settlement, first as the Roman town of Arcobriga, and later as the stronghold of Medina Arkosh under the Caliphate of Córdoba.
An archetypal white town, Arcos de la Frontera has a labyrinthine Moorish quarter that twists up to its ruined castle. At its centre is the Plaza de España, with the superb Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción, a late Gothic-Mudéjar building with extravagant Baroque choir stalls and a Renaissance altarpiece. A small museum displays the church treasures. More striking is the massive 14th-century Gothic Parroquia de San Pedro. Its thick-set tower provides a view over the sheer drop down to the Guadalete river. Nearby is the Palacio del Mayorazgo with an ornate Renaissance façade.
⌂ Calle San Pedro 2 § 956 70 30 13 (Casa de Cultura) # 10:30am–1:30pm & 4:30–7:30pm Mon–Fri, 11am–2pm Sat & Sun
Picture Perfect
The gateway to Cadiz’s white towns, lovely Arcos de la Frontera seems to exist for the sole purpose of being photographed. Angle your lens to get as many flower-filled balconies in shot as possible.
Ronda la Vieja is the modern name for the remains of the Roman city of Acinipo. An important town in the 1st century AD, it later declined, unlike the growing town of Ronda, which was called Arunda by the Romans. The ruins are on a hillside where only a fraction of the town has been excavated. The most significant sight is the theatre, but lines of stones also mark the foundations of houses, the forum and other buildings.
Along the C339, 22 km (12 miles) from Ronda la Vieja, are the Cuevas de la Pileta, the site of prehistoric cave paintings dating from about 25,000 BC.
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⌂ Benaoján # By appt only ∑ cuevadelapileta.org
One of Andalucía’s least accessible areas, this UNESCO biosphere reserve southeast of Ronda extends between Parauta (to the east), Tolox (west), El Burgo (north) and Istán (south). It features both extreme highs and lows, reaching up to the peak of Torrecilla (1,919 m/ 6,295 ft) and down to one of the world’s deepest potholes, GESM, which is 1,100 m (3,608 ft) deep. The sierra is popular for caving and rock climbing, and has moderate to difficult signposted walking trails. A short way south, near Ojén, is the Refugio de Juanar, which offers woodland walks.
EXPERIENCE Cádiz and Málaga
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stay Parador de Arcos de la Frontera Perched high on a bluff at the edge of Arcos de la Frontera, this parador offers amazing views and an excellent restaurant. ⌂ Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera ∑ parador.es ¡¡¡ Hotel La Luna Blanca East meets West in this unique Japanese-style hotel in a quiet part of Torrremolinos only five minutes’ walk from the beach. Relax in the rooftop Jacuzzi. ⌂ Pasaje Cerrillo 2, Torremolinos ∑ hotellalunablanca.es ¡¡¡ La Villa Marbella This fully refurbished 200-year-old house in Marbella’s historic centre has old-time romantic charm. After breakfast by the pool it’s only an eight-minute walk to the beach. ⌂ Calle Príncipe 10, Marbella ∑ lavillamarbella.com ¡¡¡ |
The Guadalhorce valley is home to one of Spain’s geographical wonders. The Garganta del Chorro is a gaping chasm 180 m (590 ft) high, slashing through a limestone mountain. In some places, where the Guadalhorce river hurtles through the gorge, waters foaming white, it is only 10 m (30 ft) wide. Visitors can access the Caminito del Rey walkway, attached to the walls of the gorge over 100 m (330 ft) above the river. A limited number of hikers is allowed at any one time, so reservations are essential.
t The Caminito del Rey across the breathtaking Garganta del Chorro
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# Apr–Oct: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–2pm Tue–Sun ∑ caminodelrey.info
The Caminito del Rey is 8 km (5 miles) long and known as “the scariest path in the world”.
t People taking in the weathered limestone formations at the Parque Natural del Torcal
A huge exposed hump of limestone upland battered into bizarre formations by wind and rain, El Torcal is popular with hikers. Most follow a network of footpaths leading from a visitors’ centre; short walks (up to two hours) are marked by yellow arrows; longer walks in red. There are caves, canyons, mushroom-shaped rocks and other geological curiosities to see. The park also has fox and weasel populations, as well as eagles, hawks and vultures.
Situated in the Guadalhorce river valley, Álora is an important agricultural centre. It is a classic pueblo blanco, or white town, perched on a hillside overlooking wheat fields, citrus orchards and olive groves.
The town’s cobbled streets radiate from the 18th-century Iglesia de la Encarnación. At the bustling weekly market, stalls of farm produce and clothing fill nearby streets. On the higher of Álora’s twin hills stands the Castillo Árabe, with a cemetery of niche tombs set in neat blocks.
⌂ Calle Ancha § 952 49 61 00 # 8am–3pm daily
This small town is worth a stop to see its extraordinary Plaza Ochavada – an octagonal square built in the 18th century in a French style, which also incorporates traditional Andalucían features. From the Ermita Virgen de Gracia on a hillside above the town, there are commanding views over rolling countryside.
This busy market town has long been strategically important; first as Roman Anticaria, and later as a Moorish border fortress defending Granada. The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, with its massive Baroque altarpiece, is not to be missed.
High on a hill overlooking the town is the Castillo Árabe, a 13th-century Moorish castle, built on the site of a Roman fort. Visitors cannot go inside, but you can walk round the castle walls to appreciate the scale of this fortress – the approach is through the 16th-century Arco de los Gigantes. There are fine views from the 16th-century Torre del Papabellotas, one of the towers in the castle walls. In the town below, the 18th-century Palacio de Nájera is the setting for the Municipal Museum, whose star exhibit is the Ephebe, a 2,000-year-old statue of a Roman boy.
On the outskirts of town are three large prehistoric dolmens that may have been the burial chambers of tribal leaders. Two of them – Viera and Menga – stand together, the latter the oldest and most impressive of all, dated at between 4,000 and 4,500 years old. The Menga Dolmen is also interesting because it is positioned so that, on the summer solstice, the sun shines straight into its entrance. A short distance away is the Dolmen de Romeral, which has a vaulted central chamber.
t The Ephebe of Antequera, one of the finest Roman statues in Spain
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⌂ Plaza del Coso Viejo § 952 70 83 00 # Mid–Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–2pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 10am–2pm & 4:30–6:30pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–2pm Sun
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§ 952 71 22 06 # Apr–May: 9am–8pm Tue–Sat, 9am–2pm Sun; Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–2pm Tue–Sat, 9am–2pm Sun; mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–2pm Sun
The largest of several lakes in an expanse of wetlands north of Antequera, the Laguna de la Fuente de Piedra teems with bird life, including huge flocks of flamingos. Every March, up to 25,000 of these birds arrive to breed before migrating back to West Africa. However, if there is drought in the region, there will be fewer birds breeding.
Apart from flamingos, there are cranes, herons, bee-eaters, snow-white egrets, as well as many species of ducks and geese. Their numbers have been on the increase since conservation and anti-hunting laws were introduced and the area declared a sanctuary. A road off the N334 leads to the lake side, from where visitors can watch the birds. Restraint is required: it is forbidden to join the waders in the lake. Information is available from a visitors’ centre near the village of Fuente de Piedra.
EXPERIENCE Cádiz and Málaga
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drink Bar Restaurante Tejada Dani-Denis Cool off with a cold beer at a table on the terrace, while enjoying views of Fuente de Piedra’s reservoir. There’s plenty of choice of brews, as well as a food menu. Try the grilled prawn and octopus skewer. ⌂ Plaza de la Constitución 10, Fuente de Piedra § 952 73 53 32 Belvue Rooftop Bar Enjoy views over the Mediterranean and fancy cocktails at this glamorous, adults-only bar in Marbella. Come here for a tipple at sunset or head over later for live music and DJ sounds. The bar serves snacks and there are four restaurants in the hotel if you get peckish. ⌂ Amare Hotel, Paseo Alfonso Cañas Nogueras, Marbella ∑ amarehotels.com |
EXPERIENCE Cádiz and Málaga
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eat Espetos (grilled sardines) are the local speciality in Málaga province. Try this salty dish at one of these authentic eateries. Merendero Moreno ⌂ Playa Burriana, Nerja § 952 52 54 80 ¡¡¡ El Canarias ⌂ Plaza del Remo, Torremolinos ∑ elcanariasplaya.com ¡¡¡ Miguel Cerdán ⌂ Paseo Marítimo, Torremolinos § 952 38 69 13 ¡¡¡ Pepe Oro ⌂ Diseminado Pago Carlaja 1867, Torrox ∑ pepeoro.com ¡¡¡ |
t The seafront promenade at Nerja, shaded by palms and arcades
This fashionable resort at the eastern extremity of the Costa del Sol lies at the foot of the beautiful mountains of the Sierra de Almijara, and is perched on a cliff above a succession of sandy coves. The main area for tourist activity in the resort centres around the promenade, running along a rocky promontory known as El Balcón de Europa (the Balcony of Europe). Spread along its length is a hotel and cafés with outdoor tables. There are sweeping views up and down the coast. On the edges of town, holiday villas and apartments proliferate.
Due east of the town are the Cuevas de Nerja, a series of vast caverns of considerable archaeological interest, which were discovered in 1959. Prehistoric wall paintings found in them are believed to be about 20,000 years old. Unfortunately most are closed to public view, but a few of the many cathedral-sized chambers are open to the public. One of these has been turned into an impressive underground auditorium large enough to hold audiences of several hundred. Concerts are held there in the summer.
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⌂ Carretera Maro s/n # 9:30am–4:30pm daily ¢ 1 Jan, 15 May ∑ cuevadenerja.es
“Nerja” is derived from the word narixa, an Arabic term which translates as “bountiful spring”.
The hills behind Torre del Mar and Nerja make up the pretty upland region of Axarquia, whose main town, Vélez-Málaga, has a few old streets and the remains of a castle to explore. A better base for excursionsis the attractive, sweet-wine-producing town of Cómpeta, 20 km (12 miles) from the coast by winding mountain roads. From here, there is an interesting “Mudéjar route” down the hill and up the valley to Archez and Salares, villages whose church towers are clearly undisguised brick minarets dating, respectively, from the 15th and 13th centuries.
Two other villages worth visiting are Frigiliana, close to the coast and easily accessible from Nerja; and Comares (northeast of Vélez-Málaga), perched on top of an impressive outcrop of rock from which there are superb views.
To the north and east of Málaga are the beautiful hills of Montes de Málaga. A wide area is undergoing reforestation and forms the Parque Natural de Montes de Málaga. Wildlife thrives in the strongly scented undergrowth of lavender and wild herbs. Occasionally, there are glimpses of wild cats, stone martens, wild boars, eagles and other birds of prey.
The C35 road connects Málaga and the park and there are sensational views down to the sea en route. Once you reach the park, walkers can follow the well-marked trails, taking in the mountain panoramas.
t Hiking along well-maintained trails in the Montes de Málaga hills
⌂ Málaga £ @ n Avenida Antonio Machado 10; 952 44 24 94
t The fanciful Castillo de Colomares, Benalmádena
Benalmádena hosts an array of great attractions, including the impressive Castillo de Colomares, built between 1987 and 1994 as a homage to Christopher Columbus. The Castillo de Colomares draws on the many architectural styles that have influenced Spanish culture over the centuries, including Byzantine, Romanesque and Arabic, and carved into the structure are representations of Spain’s history.
Europe’s largest Buddhist monument, the Benalmádena Stupa, is also located here.
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⌂ Carretera Costa del Sol (Finca la Carraca) # Apr–Jun: 10am–1:30pm & 4–7pm Wed–Sun; Jul-Aug: 10am–1:30pm & 5–9pm Wed–Sun; Sep–Mar: 10am–1:30pm & 4–6pm Wed–Sun ∑ castillomonumentocolomares.com
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⌂ Avenida del Retamar § 606 27 53 75 # 10am–2pm & 4:30–8pm Tue–Sun (afternoon hours may vary in mid- and low season; call ahead to check)
t Orange trees in full fruit on a mild day in Marbella’s Old Town
Marbella is one of Europe’s most exclusive holiday resorts. Royalty, film stars and other members of the jet set spend their summers here, in smart villas or at one of Marbella’s luxury hotels. In winter, the major attraction is the golf.
As well as extensive modern developments, Marbella boasts a well-preserved, charming Old Town. A number of streets lead from the main road, Avenida Ramón y Cajal, to Plaza de los Naranjos, the main square, surrounded by orange trees (hence its name).
The remains of the town’s Arab walls loom over adjacent Calle Carmen, which leads to the 17th-century Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación. Nearby is the Museo del Grabado Español Contemporáneo (Museum of Contemporary Engravings), which contains works by big-name Spanish artists, including Miró and Picasso.
On the other side of Avenida Ramón y Cajal is the Paseo de la Alameda, a park with benches decorated with colourful ceramics. From here, the road to the seafront, Avenida del Mar, is lined with sculptures made from designs by famous Spanish artist Salvador Dalí.
Heading west, Avenida Ramón y Cajal becomes the A7/N340. The first stretch is known as the “Golden Mile” because of its real-estate value. At the other end of the Golden Mile is Puerto Banús, the most exclusive marina in Spain. Beyond Puerto Banús is San Pedro de Alcántara, really a separate town but officially part of Marbella. It has a sleepy atmosphere, especially in the Plaza de la Iglesia, the town square. Most of the smart holiday developments are on the town’s fringes, set amid a number of golf courses.
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⌂ Calle Hospital Bazán s/n § 952 76 57 41 # 9am–2pm Mon & Sat; 9am–7pm Tue–Fri ¢ Public hols
Once a quiet fishing port, the town of Fuengirola is today a popular package-holiday resort, with a largely British clientele. Although some of its wilder visitors have moved on to newer pastures.
Nowadays Fuengirola attracts mainly families, while during the mild winter months, retired people from the UK take advantage of the low-season prices and come to stroll along the promenade, meet friends in English bars, and waltz the afternoons away at hotel tea dances.
Playa de Bolonia
One of the few truly virgin beaches in Cádiz.
Playa Cabo Trafalgar
Beautiful white-sand beach at Caños de Meca.
Playa de Valdevaqueros
The strong winds here at Tarifa make this a perfect surf-spot.
Playa Bil-Bil
Benalmádena’s lovely dark-sand beach.
Playa de Puerto Banús
Deluxe Marbella sunning spot, with a marina and high-end hotels.
Torremolinos grew from a village in the 1950s into one of the busiest resorts on the Costa del Sol, where British and, to a lesser extent, German holidaymakers enjoyed cheap package holidays. It also developed its red-light district and a raffish nightlife to offer “recreation” for sailors of the US navy in port at Málaga.
The town was revamped as part of a scheme that spent huge sums on new squares, a promenade, green spaces and enlarging the beach with tonnes of golden sand.
Although Torremolinos still has scores of English bars run by expatriates, the atmosphere is now decidedly less down-market, especially at Carihuela beach, towards the adjoining resort of Benalmádena.
This former fishing village, midway between Marbella and Gibraltar, has been altered, but not totally overwhelmed, by tourist developments. Now a popular resort, it is not particularly attractive at first sight, with big hotels and apartment blocks fronting the town’s busy main tourist area. Behind, however, there are endearing pockets of all that is quintessentially Spanish: orange trees lining the streets, and the lovely Plaza Arce and Plaza de las Flores – peaceful squares where old men sit reading newspapers while around them children kick footballs about. There are also a few good-value fish restaurants and tapas bars serving traditional delicacies. The beach is pleasant enough and evenings in the town tend to be quiet, which makes the resort popular with families with young children.
Not far away from Estepona is a popular nudist beach called the Costa Natura.
t Quaint narrow streets away from the main tourist drag at Estepona
The idealized image of the Costa del Sol before tourism is of idyllic fishing villages where life was always at an easy pace. It is true to say that local economies have turned away from fishing and agriculture, and that the natural beauty of this coast has been marred by development. Any measured view, however, should consider the situation described by Laurie Lee, the author who in 1936 wrote of “… salt-fish villages, thin-ribbed, sea-hating, cursing their place in the sun”. Today, few Andalucíans curse their new-found prosperity.
The closer of Spain’s two North African enclaves is worth visiting if you want to dip your toe into North Africa without leaving Spain (although you will need to show an identity card or passport on entering). Ceuta, only 19 km (12 miles) from mainland Spain, is dominated by a hill called Monte Hacho, on which there is a fort occupied by the Spanish army. The city has Phoenician and Arab remains, and churches dating from the 17th to the 19th centuries; museums include the Museo de la Legión, dedicated to the Spanish Foreign Legion.
You will notice that both Ceuta and Melilla are surrounded by high fences to deter illegal migrants from all parts of Africa.
t Pillars of Hercules statue on Ceuta’s dock
⌂ Avenida Deán Navarro Acuña 6 § 956 52 62 19 # 10am–1pm Mon–Sat ¢ 1st Sat of month
Insider Tip
To get to Ceuta fast, take a helicopter instead of a ferry. For around €50 (single trip), you can fly there in about 10 minutes from Algeciras. Find out more at www.helity.es.
Spain’s second North African enclave, settled by Spain in 1497, is located on the Moroccan coast, 150 km (90 miles) due south of Adra in Almería. It’s a six-hour ferry ride from mainland Spain, but it is worth it as there is plenty to see, including the only Gothic architecture in Africa and samples of Modernisme, the Catalan version of Art Nouveau architecture.
Modern-day Melilla prides itself on being a place of peaceful co-existence between its main four component cultures: Christian, Muslim, Jewish and Hindu.
All the principal sights are located in Melilla La Vieja (Old Melilla), a cluster of four fortified areas separated by moats or walls, built in the 14th century on a hammer-head promontory jutting out into the sea. But the 19th- and 20th-century parts of the city are equally worth strolling around, since it is here that you’ll find splendid Modernista and Art Deco buildings. There is also a small beach.
t Looking over the Kasbah to Tangier’s new town
EXPERIENCE Cádiz and Málaga
t A dining room in the Hotel Continental, Tangier’s most famous hotel
Tangier is only 45 minutes by fast ferry from Tarifa, making it a perfect day trip. Despite its proximity, this ancient Moroccan port, founded by the Berbers before 1000 BC, will be a sharp culture shock for those used to life in Europe. Tangier is vibrant with colour, and the vast, labyrinthine Medina, the market quarter, pulsates with noise. From their workshops in back alleys, craftsmen make traditional goods for busy shops and stalls in the crowded streets.
Rue es Siaghin, “Silversmith’s Street”, was Tangier’s main thoroughfare in the 1930s and still offers a staggering array of merchandise; shop owners will offer you mint tea in a bid to get you to buy. At the end of the street, a gateway in the walls leads to the Grand Socco, a busy square where traders from the Rif mountains come to barter their goods.
The Kasbah or citadel, where the sultans once held court, is at the Medina’s highest point. It is separated from its alleys by sturdy walls and four massive stone gateways. From the battlements there are views over the Strait of Gibraltar.
The Kasbah encloses the Dar El Makhzen, a palace built by Sultan Moulay Ismail, who unified Morocco in the 17th century. The sultans lived here until 1912. It is now a museum of crafts such as ceramics, embroidery and ironwork. The exhibits are arranged round a central courtyard and in cool rooms with tiled ceilings. There are illuminated Qur’ans in the Fez Room and a courtyard in the style of Andalucían Moorish gardens. The treasury house, the old prison and the law courts, and villas once owned by Americans and Europeans, such as Paul Bowles, the author of The Sheltering Sky, are also within the Kasbah walls.
Bowles was a central figure in the cosmopolitan, rather louche expatriate scene in Tangier, especially during the 1950s and ‘60s, when visitors included authors Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams and William S Burroughs. A museum inside the American Legation, itself housed in a former palace, has an exhibit devoted to Bowles’ life and work. Scenes from Bernardo Bertolucci’s film version of The Sheltering Sky were filmed at the Hotel Continental, which has seen numerous intrigues played out within its walls.
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⌂ Place de la Kasbah § (212) 539 93 20 97 # 8:30am–6pm Wed–Mon
⌂ Rue d’Amerique 8 # 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–3pm Sat ∑ legation.org
⌂ Rue Dar El Baroud § (212) 539 93 10 24 # Daily