chapter six

GRAINS

A mass of grasslike plants huddles under the great grain umbrella. My scientific terminology isn’t entirely correct, I grant you, but, as I know of no other term to encompass the whole gamut of grains, grasses and cereals that we eat, “grains” will do as my shorthand.

Vegetables, even when they take center stage, often need the balance and bolster of grains. And, yet, the nutritious whole forms are today often lambasted with the same “bad carbohydrate” brush usually reserved for cheap white bread and cakes. I wonder if we are in danger of losing our way completely and forgetting that eating is about giving ourselves energy, pleasure, balance and sustenance, not about achieving weight loss. Unless you have an allergy, I have seen no good evidence to avoid grains; in fact, I feel that a daily diet without them would be restrictive and lacking. Eating whole grains, for flavor as well as complete nutrition, couldn’t be further from mainlining sliced white bread and jam. And it certainly won’t make you fat.

There are many levels of processing where grains are concerned, a veritable minefield of them in fact. Pearled barley and spelt, for example, are not whole grains, because the fibrous bran has been polished away, but rolled oats—even whole-grain flour—are in the club with their brans intact. A whole grain is just that: the outer bran, the starchy endosperm and the protein- and oil-rich germ all present together. Your body can glean B vitamins, iron and omega-3 fatty acids (and more) from the germ, and has to work harder to break through the bran layer. Hence whole grain’s status as a darling of low glycemic index (GI) eating: They sustain steady blood sugar levels for a long time. All told, they are a notable source of energy for very little outlay and they bring flavor in spades. If you eat whole grains where possible, but cook any grain—whole or occasionally not—in a modern way, for texture as well as taste, combining them with vegetables and high-quality protein, I don’t feel any concern is warranted.

The breadth of grains at our fingertips is magnificent, ranging from lesser-known amaranth, kasha, millet and teff, through still-quite-exotic buckwheat, farro, quinoa and rye, to mainstream barley, corn, oats, spelt, wheat and wild rice (in fact all rices).

Dry roasting—or roasting or sautéing grains in flavor-rich fat—is the best way to impart a rounded, nutty flavor to grains. After that initial toast, intense enough to turn them a shade or two darker, and making them smell toasted, they are ready to be simmered as usual. They will be a better, more confident version of themselves, once cooked.

If you aren’t planning on dry-roasting or toasting grains, soaking them in cool water for an hour or two will lessen cooking times. And here, on that all-important simmer, you can alter the direction of a grain-based dish significantly. Add umami with vegetable or mushroom stock, lend comfort with coconut milk, or boost aromatic qualities with bay, thyme, cinnamon or star anise. Leave well alone to cook, or stir constantly to coax out starches, thickening to a risotto-like end.

Any grain portion of a recipe doesn’t have to be the main, or even side, event, it can be the finishing touch . . . so I’d always recommend cooking more than you need, in order to have extra in the fridge or freezer. It is easy to use it up: Throw cooked grains into or onto rustic soups and stews; fold them into sweet, roasted roots with legumes and a mustard dressing; add herbs, seeds and nuts with a generous hand. . . .

And you can toast grains at the end as well as at the start of cooking. In the fava bean tostadas in this chapter (see Fava Bean and Asparagus Tostadas with Refried Beans), I suggest frying a small amount of cooked quinoa to spoon over at the end. The cooked grains shrink down in a hot frying pan, turning crunchy and intensifying in flavor. They are there for texture as much as taste. Similarly, raw rice can be toasted in a dry pan until golden, then pounded to a gritty dust, with or without spices, to throw over East Asian salads. A small spoonful adds great texture contrast and flavor.

To take the texture in a different direction, try sprouting grains such as rye, wheat and oat groats just as you would seeds or legumes: Cover a handful of grains with plenty of cool water and leave to soak overnight. Rinse and drain well and transfer to a clear jar with a square of muslin or cheesecloth fastened over the top with an elastic band. Invert the jar and prop it up at an angle in a bowl or similar. Now leave the jarred grains in a cool place to sprout, filling the jar with cool water, rinsing out and draining through the muslin or cheesecloth twice a day (return it to its inverted, angled position after each rinse). When you see little sprouts growing, which could take two to five days, rinse the grains well and eat immediately, or keep in the fridge for about three days. They are milky and slightly crisp, packed with nutrients and excellent on salads or blended into pesto, hummus, or even smoothies.

Lastly, a note. Gluten-free readers will know this, but, for the rest of us, it is useful—essential even—to know which grains and grasses are safe for those with an allergy. Amaranth, buckwheat, corn, millet, oats, quinoa, rice, teff and wild rice—if from a certified gluten-free source—are all fine.

Quinoa and Fava Bean Falafel with Lemon

Please make these; they are incredible. They have a delightful crunch from the quinoa—I used black for the picture—and a fresh quality from the herbs. Do buy the peeled or skinless dried fava beans, or you’ll spend a good 20 minutes slipping soaked beans from their brown skins. Try health food shops and anywhere selling North African food if you can’t find them in the supermarket.

Serves 4 to 6 / Makes about 36

• 1½ cups (300 g) split, dried fava beans

• 1⅓ cups (150 g) quinoa

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds

• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

• ½ red onion, chopped

• 1 plump garlic clove, chopped

• 1 preserved lemon, rind only, chopped

• Handful each of parsley, cilantro and mint leaves

• Pinch of cayenne pepper

• Pinch of baking powder

• 1 quart (1 L) canola oil

• Handful of pea shoots or watercress

• 1¼ cups (200 g) fava beans, lightly steamed and double shelled

• 4 tablespoons Roasted Tomato and Pickled Lemon Relish

The day or night before, cover the dried fava beans with plenty of cold water in a bowl and leave to soak in a cool place for 10 to 24 hours. Drain thoroughly.
Put the quinoa in a saucepan, add 1¼ cups (290 ml) of water and a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Partially cover with a lid, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until no liquid remains in the pan. Set aside to cool slightly.
Toast the coriander and cumin seeds in a dry pan over medium heat until just fragrant. Crush roughly and add to a food processor with the soaked beans, red onion, garlic, preserved lemon rind, herbs and cayenne. Blend to make a rough, moldable paste, stopping to scrape down the sides and mix through every now and then and adding the quinoa near the end of blending time. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the baking powder, season generously with salt and pepper, cover with plastic wrap and chill for 1 hour to make the mixture easier to shape.
Form into walnut-sized balls, scooping out spoonfuls and rolling them firmly between your palms. Wet your hands lightly if they stick at all. Have them all ready on a tray.
Put the oil in a medium saucepan and heat gently until a scrap of the falafel mixture sizzles gently when dropped into the oil.
Deep-fry in batches until golden, keeping a close watch and turning the falafel regularly so that they color evenly. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on a plate lined with paper towels, keeping the fried falafel warm in a low oven.
Serve with a little salad of the pea shoots and fresh beans, with spoonfuls of the Roasted Tomato and Pickled Lemon Relish.

Fragrant Carrot, Mandarin and Onion Red Rice Pilaf

Much can be made from an onion or two, and this beautiful red pilaf, with its gently spiced rice and colored-at-the-edges onion-mandarin hat, relies on cooking them slowly and patiently to release their natural sugars. It won’t attain the heights of fluffiness because of the grated carrot, but it’s no less delicious for that. Serve this with roasted roots on the side and perhaps some yogurt.

Serves 4

• 1½ cups (300 g) red rice

• 1 large mandarin, halved

• 4 to 5 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, optional

• 3 large onions, halved and finely sliced

• 1 teaspoon coriander seeds

• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds

• 4 green cardamom pods

• 1 large cinnamon stick

• 2 large carrots, coarsely grated

• 2½ cups (600 ml) vegetable stock

• ¾ cup (100 g) sliced almonds, toasted

• Large handful of fennel fronds or dill, chopped

• Large handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Start by rinsing the rice in a bowl of water held under the cool tap, swishing the grains and draining, then refilling, until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well and set aside.
Squeeze a little of the mandarin juice into a cup and finely slice the mandarin halves. Set aside.
Put 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the butter, if using, in a large frying pan and set it over medium-low heat. Add the onions and cook gently for 15 minutes, stirring often, until they are very soft and beginning to turn golden. At this point, transfer one third of the onions to a large saucepan and return the frying pan to medium heat, stirring in the mandarin slices and a little more oil. Cook, stirring often, until both onions and mandarins begin to color at the edges. Set aside.
Meanwhile, lightly crush the coriander and cumin seeds with a mortar and pestle. Add the cardamom pods and crush to split them open. Stir all these spices, along with the cinnamon stick, into the smaller amount of onions in the saucepan over gentle heat and cook for 5 minutes more. Stir in the drained rice and grated carrots, coating with the fat. Add the stock, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cover the pan and cook for about 30 minutes, until the liquid has been absorbed.
Remove the rice pan from the heat, cover with a kitchen towel, replace the lid and leave to steam for 10 minutes. Stir the almonds, fennel fronds and mint into the rice. Season with the reserved mandarin juice, salt and pepper and spoon the golden onion and mandarin mixture over to finish.

Fennel and Lima Bean Tabbouleh

This is not an authentic tabbouleh by any stretch; I have simply borrowed the idea of an exuberant and herb-rich grain salad. Herb-rich means positively singing with green herbs, so don’t stint; these simple flavors rely on their vibrancy to pull the dish off. Replace the toasted freekeh (green wheat) with any grain or grass you like. The slight crunch of quinoa works particularly well as an alternative.

Serves 4

• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds

• 1 cup (150 g) freekeh (green wheat)

• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 ml) extra virgin olive oil

• Leaves from 2 large bunches of flat-leaf parsley

• Leaves from 1 large bunch of mint

• 1 large fennel bulb, halved

• 1¾ cups (300 g) cooked, drained lima beans (or one 15-ounce/400 g can)

• 1 bunch of scallions, trimmed and finely sliced

• Juice of 1 large lemon

• 1 garlic clove, crushed

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tablespoons Sesame Seed Za’atar

Lightly crush the fennel seeds. Put the freekeh and fennel seeds in a saucepan with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Toast over medium heat, stirring often, until the grains begin to darken slightly and smell nutty. Add 2 cups (450 ml) of water, bring to a boil and partially cover with a lid. Reduce the heat and simmer briskly for 10 minutes or so, until the water has been absorbed. The freekeh should still have texture and bite. Set aside to cool.
Finely chop the parsley and mint leaves, along with any fennel fronds. You should have a very generous amount, far more herb than grain. Combine with the freekeh in a large bowl.
If you have a mandoline, use it to slice the halved fennel bulb very finely. Otherwise, use a sharp knife and have patience. Add to the freekeh with the lima beans and most of the scallions, keeping a small handful back for the end.
Combine the lemon juice and remaining olive oil with the crushed garlic. Season well with salt and pepper to make a dressing and pour most of it over the freekeh mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed, then spoon onto a serving plate. Finish with the rest of the dressing, the remaining scallions and the za’atar.

Turkish Peppers

Bouncy wheat grains are ideal spooned into these Mediterranean-inspired peppers, adding sustenance and texture to the sweetly roasted vegetables. The baked peppers are finished with a light dill and feta yogurt and plenty of golden pine nuts. There is a lot going on, but the premise owes more than a nod to the well-known Piedmont peppers Elizabeth David first wrote about more than half a century ago.

Serves 4

• ¾ cup (150 g) wheat berries

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 4 red, yellow or orange peppers

• 5 scallions, trimmed

• Small bunch of dill

• 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced

• Handful of mixed olives, pitted and halved

• 16 sun-dried tomato quarters, drained

• Olive oil

• ⅔ cup (100 g) crumbled feta

• ½ cup (100 g) Greek yogurt

• 2 tablespoons pine nuts

• ½ teaspoon sumac, optional

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
Put the wheat berries in a large saucepan with a generous pinch of salt, cover with cool water and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, partially cover and leave to cook for 25 to 30 minutes, until the grains are just tender (they should still be slightly chewy). Drain and set aside.
Slice the peppers in half from stalk to base and remove the pale ribs and seeds. Arrange in a single layer in a roasting pan, cut sides up. Finely slice the green scallion tops and set aside. Cut the remainder of the scallions into thirds and finely chop half the dill, keeping the rest in sprig form. Tuck a few slices of garlic, a few olive halves, a couple of sun-dried tomato quarters, a sprig of dill and 1 or 2 scallion lengths into each pepper half. Drizzle with olive oil—be generous—and roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until tender.
While the peppers cook, beat the feta and Greek yogurt together with the chopped dill and plenty of black pepper until light. Cook the pine nuts in a frying pan with another drizzle of olive oil over medium heat. They’ll need a couple of minutes, with frequent stirring, to turn golden brown all over. Transfer to a plate.
Gently stir 1 heaping tablespoon of cooked wheat into each pepper half, coating it with the garlicky, olive-y, peppery juices that have pooled there. At this stage you can leave the peppers to cool if you like, but I think they are best when warm. Either way, top with a spoonful of the whipped feta, sliced scallion tops and a final scattering of golden pine nuts, sprigs of dill and sour sumac, if you have any.

Eggplant and Sweet Potato Lasagna with Walnuts

I will leave the type of pasta up to you; there are some pretty good dried whole-grain varieties around now, beyond the standard durum wheat. When developing this recipe, I used whole-grain spelt lasagna sheets and was impressed with their flavor and texture after baking. Serve this with salad and red wine.

Serves 4

• Two 14.5-ounce (400 g) cans plum tomatoes

• 2 garlic cloves, crushed

• Pinch of chile flakes

• 3 tablespoons red wine

• 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for roasting

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 pound (450 g) sweet potatoes, peeled

• 2 tablespoons chopped thyme leaves

• 2 medium eggplants

• 5.3 ounces (150 g; about 7) lasagna sheets

• Three 5.3-ounce (150 g) spheres of vegetarian mozzarella, drained and sliced

• Handful of basil leaves, torn

• ⅔ cup (100 g) chopped walnuts

Put the tomatoes, half the garlic, the chile flakes, wine and 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan with a pinch of salt. Set over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring often, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 50 minutes, stirring now and then, until rich and thick, not watery.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Slice the sweet potatoes into ⅜-inch (1 cm) discs. Toss with a good pinch of the thyme and enough olive oil to coat. Season with salt and pepper and spread out in a roasting pan. Roast at the base of the oven for 30 minutes, until tender.
Trim the eggplants and slice from top to bottom, making each slice about ¼ inch (5 mm) thick. Brush with oil, season and lay out on 2 large baking sheets, in single layers. Roast at the top of the oven for 20 minutes, swapping the trays around halfway, until tender and beginning to brown.
To assemble the lasagna, spread one quarter of the tomato sauce into an 8 × 12-inch (20 × 30 cm) ovenproof dish. Cover with a single layer of lasagna sheets, topping these with one quarter more of the sauce. Now add half the sweet potato in a single layer, followed by an overlapping layer of about half the eggplant slices. Cover with half the mozzarella slices and torn basil leaves. Repeat the layers once more, finishing with the remaining tomato sauce in an even layer. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until bubbling.
While the lasagna bakes, combine the remaining crushed garlic clove, walnuts and remaining thyme in a bowl with a drizzle of oil and plenty of seasoning. When there are 10 minutes until the lasagna is ready, scatter evenly with the walnut mixture. Set aside to rest and settle for a final 10 minutes before attempting to slice and serve.

Farro and Squash Kofta in a Roasted Tomato Sauce

These plump little kofta—as close as I could get to meatless meatballs, really—are as delicious with braised lentils or beans as they are with peppery salads. Because they are so rich in grains, I’d opt for serving them with “zucchini noodles” or other vegetables that are blanched and shredded into strands instead of pasta (more grains), though of course you can serve them just as suggested below, with their smoky-rich tomato sauce, basil and cheese.

Serves 4 / Makes about 20

• 2 sweet white onions, finely chopped

• 3 garlic cloves, chopped

• ½ teaspoon dried oregano

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Olive oil

• 2½ pounds (1.2 kg) ripe tomatoes, halved

• 1 pound 3 ounces (550 g) firm winter squash, peeled deseeded and cut into ¾-inch (2 cm) cubes

• 1⅓ cups (200 g) farro or spelt

• 1 celery stalk, finely chopped

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• 2 teaspoons chopped rosemary leaves

• 1½ cups (150 g) sourdough bread crumbs

• 1 egg, lightly beaten

• ⅓ cup (30 g) finely grated vegetarian Parmesan cheese, plus more, shaved, to serve

• Large handful of basil leaves, chopped, plus more to serve

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Scatter half the onions into a roasting pan with the garlic. Sprinkle with the oregano, season with salt and pepper and drizzle generously with olive oil. Cover the whole lot with the tomatoes in a single layer, cut sides down. Slide into the oven and roast for about 45 minutes, until completely tender. Set aside to cool slightly, then remove the tomato skins by pulling them off. Blend to make a rich, smooth sauce.
Meanwhile, toss the squash with oil to coat and spread out in a roasting pan with plenty of salt and pepper. Roast for 45 minutes, or until tender. Transfer into a large bowl and set aside. Cover the farro with water in a saucepan, add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer merrily for 25 minutes, or until just tender. Drain thoroughly and add to the squash.
Put 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a frying pan and set over medium-low heat. Add the remaining onion and the celery with a pinch of salt and sauté gently for 10 minutes, until soft and just beginning to brown. Add the tomato purée and rosemary and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes. Transfer into the bowl with the farro. Using the back of a spoon, crush the squash to make a rough mash—you don’t need to overdo it—combining all the ingredients. Stir in the bread crumbs, egg, grated Parmesan and chopped basil. Season with lots of black pepper and a little salt. Cover and chill for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours to firm up.
Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Scoop out a heaping tablespoon of the mixture and roll into kofta, each slightly smaller than a golf ball. They can be chilled again for up to 24 hours at this point. Put your largest frying pan over medium heat and add enough oil to form a film over the surface. Fry the kofta gently for 8 minutes, until golden brown all over. Spoon the tomato sauce into the pan, giving it a shake to redistribute. Bring to a simmer, then slide into the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Scatter with basil leaves and Parmesan before serving.

Idli with Coconut Chutney

If you have spent any time in south India, you will have tried these fluffy, slightly sour rice cakes with sambal. Though the batter takes a while to ferment, they’re easy to make with a powerful blender. Track down urad dal (black gram) in Asian shops; you want the skinned, white ones. The ground rice is good old cream of rice, found in the baking section of supermarkets. You could always soak, dry and grind white basmati instead.

Serves 4 / Makes about 18

For the idli

• ½ cup (120 g) urad dal

• ¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds

• 1 cup (210 g) ground rice (also known as cream of rice)

• 1 cup (175 g) cooked brown basmati rice

• 1 scant teaspoon fine salt

• Sunflower oil, for the molds

For the coconut chutney

• 1 tablespoon sunflower oil

• Small handful of mint leaves

• ½- to 1-inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and chopped

• Handful of curry leaves

• 1 green chile, roughly chopped

• 1¼ cups (100 g) grated fresh coconut

• Sea salt

• ½ teaspoon mustard seeds

At least 14 hours before you want to eat the idli (in practice, this will be more like 2 days), soak the urad dal and fenugreek seeds in a bowl of cool water for at least 4 hours or overnight. Put the ground rice in a second bowl and cover generously with cool water. It will look cloudy; don’t worry, it will settle. Leave the rice to soak for 2 hours. I usually leave both bowls to soak overnight with no ill effects.

Strain the urad dal and fenugreek through a fine sieve, but save the soaking water. Strain the ground rice, too. The sieve needs to be very fine here, so line with a piece of muslin or cheesecloth if needed; there is no need to save any of this soaking water. Put both in a powerful blender with the cooked rice.

Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved dal-soaking water and begin to blend. When the mixture begins to break down, stop the motor and stir, then blend again to make a paste. Add a further ⅔ cup (150 ml) of the reserved soaking water and continue to blend until completely smooth. The mixture should be bubbling on top and silky, not gritty (check by rubbing a little between your fingers). If your blender is too small, divide the mixture—and the liquid to be added—in half and blend in two batches.

Pour into a large bowl and stir in the salt. Cover with plastic wrap or a plate and set aside in a warm place (an airing pantry, or next to the oven in a warm kitchen, are both ideal) to ferment for 10 to 12 hours, until the batter smells pleasantly sour and has risen and bubbled dramatically. If it hasn’t fermented properly, the idli won’t rise or turn out fluffy, so be patient and let the batter sit for up to 10 hours longer if needed, making sure the room isn’t too cold, as this will slow fermentation drastically.

To make the chutney, put half the oil in a frying pan set over medium heat. Add the mint leaves, ginger, half the curry leaves and the green chile. Cook for a few minutes, until the leaves turn dark and fragrant. Transfer into the blender with the coconut and 3 tablespoons of water. Blend until smooth, stirring in salt to taste; it should make quite a loose mixture. Wipe out the pan and return to high heat with the remaining oil. Add the remaining curry leaves and the mustard seeds and cook, stirring, until the seeds begin to pop. Pour this temper over the chutney.

Assuming you don’t own an idli mold, oil 6 heatproof ramekins or dessert molds (about 2¾ inches/7 cm in diameter). Arrange in a steamer, fill each mold with 1½ tablespoons of idli batter and steam, covered, over simmering water for 8 to 10 minutes until puffed and springy to the touch. Flip the cooked idli out of the molds, wrap in a kitchen towel and keep warm while you cook the remaining 12 in the same way. Serve with the chutney.

Sweet Potato, Buckwheat and Herb Muffins

Like most recipes in this book, these wholesome savory muffins contain a generous hit of vegetable. So much grated sweet potato means they will never be elegant, but that’s not to their detriment. They are well suited to buttering or spreading with cream cheese to go with soup. And should you want a muffin for breakfast, make a batch the night before and reheat them. They also freeze well, once baked.

Makes 6 large muffins

• ⅓ cup (75 ml) fruity olive oil, plus more for the pan, optional

• 1⅓ cups (200 g) grated sweet potatoes

• ⅔ cup (100 g) mixed seeds (flax, pumpkin, sesame, sunflower seeds . . . )

• Large handful of soft herbs, finely chopped

• Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon

• 2 tablespoons chia seeds

• ¼ teaspoon fine salt

• 2 eggs, lightly beaten

• 1 heaping tablespoon Greek yogurt

• ½ cup (60 g) buckwheat flour

• ½ cup (60 g) whole-grain spelt or unbleached all-purpose flour

• ¾ teaspoon baking powder

• ¼ teaspoon baking soda

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line 6 holes of a 12-hole muffin pan with paper baking cups, or just oil the pan.
Stir together thoroughly the grated sweet potatoes, two thirds of the mixed seeds, the herbs, lemon zest, chia seeds, salt, oil, eggs and yogurt and set aside for 5 minutes, so that the chia seeds swell up a little. Sift the flours, baking powder and baking soda into a second bowl.
Stir the sweet potato mixture into the dry ingredients to form a very dense batter; be careful not to overmix. Divide between the muffin cups, sprinkle the tops with the reserved seeds and bake for 20 minutes or so, until risen and springy to the touch. Leave to cool for 5 minutes before turning out to cool completely on a wire rack.

Grain Supper Bowls . . . Principles and Variations

The idea of today’s “bowl food” is to create informal and relaxed meals. They don’t need to be slovenly; in fact, they are the ideal opportunity to put personality and care into your food, considering balance and texture in particular.

GRAIN OR GRASS

The nutritious base. Let your mood guide you. Robust buckwheat and rye overpower timid flavors and jar with spices, so combine them with pesto, dairy and roasted veggies. Any rice, or quinoa, takes well to Asian or South American spice. Nutty grains—the wheat, spelt, farro and pot or Scotch barley tribe—mix well with strong dressings. Summery grain bowls can be a showcase for sprouted grains (especially good for you).

VEGGIES . . .

Don’t hold back; these are the stars. Spike them with spices and herbs. Roast, grill, steam or sauté, balancing their textures with other additions.

. . . OR SALAD

I include handfuls of soft herbs and young brassicas in the salad bracket. Don’t forget cutting techniques make a real difference: Shaved fennel or carrot, perked up in ice water for a minute, will add another element.

HUNGRY?

Add good-quality protein. Tofu, tempeh, seitan, dairy, eggs in any form, legumes, even mushrooms, nuts and seeds will do the job.

SWEET NOTES

Naturally sweet alliums and peppers, cooked slowly to coax their sugars out, add another layer, especially when balanced with vinegar or citrus.

POKE

Think pickled. Kimchi or quick pickles of radish, carrot or cucumber lend crisp crunch and sour contrast.

DRESS

Sauces, dressings, pestos and relishes to stir through as you eat are of pivotal importance. Try a miso seaweed relish with rice bowls, or spoon on serious spice with a Thai-style chile paste.

TO FINISH

A chance to add charm and texture. Sprouts; nuts and seeds (soaked or toasted); herbs; fried shallots; cold-pressed oil; matchsticks of ginger . . .

Whole Eggplants, Couscous and Confit Peppers

A stunner. Sweet peppers, charred eggplants, toasted giant couscous, a spiced dressing, mint and spoonfuls of cool labneh. It is important to choose the longest eggplants you can find. Plump eggplants will need to be sliced in half, or given a good 10 minutes longer if left whole. You could forgo the broiler entirely in favor of a grill; the extra smokiness would be very welcome.

Serves 4

• 4 large, sweet peppers

• 4 garlic cloves

• 1 red onion, halved and sliced

• ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (135 ml) extra virgin olive oil

• 3 tablespoons good sherry vinegar

• ½ teaspoon sweet smoked paprika

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3 tablespoons ras el hanout

• 4 large, long eggplants

• Good squeeze of lemon juice

• Small handful of mint leaves, chopped, plus more to serve

• ¾ cup (150 g) Israeli whole-grain couscous

• 1½ cups (350 ml) vegetable stock or water

• 4 heaping tablespoons labneh, store-bought or homemade (see Labneh)

Up to a week ahead of time, make the pepper confit. Deseed the peppers, cutting them into chubby strips and removing any pale ribs from the insides as you do so. Finely slice 3 of the garlic cloves and add to a frying pan with the peppers, red onion and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Sauté over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, for 20 minutes, until softened. Once they have started to color at the edges, add 1 tablespoon of the sherry vinegar and stir well, scraping at the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze. Stir in the paprika, reduce the heat to low and cover. Leave to cook, stirring now and then, for a further 15 minutes, until sweet and very soft. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Use immediately, or cover and chill for up to 7 days.
To cook the eggplants, preheat the broiler to medium. Combine 1 tablespoon of the ras el hanout with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Prick the eggplants all over with a fork. Rub with the spiced oil, turning to coat; the hope is that each eggplant absorbs oil and spice through the holes. Arrange on a baking sheet and broil for 25 to 30 minutes, turning with tongs every 10 minutes.
To make the dressing, crush the remaining garlic clove with a fat pinch of salt to make a paste. Combine it with the remaining ¼ cup (60 ml) of olive oil, remaining vinegar and ras el hanout, lemon juice and chopped mint. Make the dressing directly with a mortar and pestle if you have one, muddling the mint slightly. Otherwise, just combine everything in a bowl.
Toast the couscous until golden in a dry frying pan set over medium heat, stirring. Add the stock, cover and cook for 15 minutes, stirring often, until the liquid is absorbed and the couscous is cooked through. Fold half the dressing through and season to taste.
Serve the whole eggplants and confit peppers with the couscous, pouring the remaining dressing over with spoonfuls of the labneh. Scatter more mint leaves over the top.

Coconut Sevai Rice

I can’t recommend this gentle rice highly enough as a simple, soothing supper with stir-fried greens, or as a rice bowl with spiced roasted vegetables and a tangle of fried onions. If you don’t have fresh coconut, soak 1/3 cup (25 g) unsweetened desiccated coconut in boiling water for 15 minutes and replace some of the 2 cups (500 ml) rice-cooking water with the soaking water. I suggest using broken cashews, as they are cheaper.

Serves 4 as a side dish

• 1⅓ cups (250 g) whole-grain basmati rice

• ⅔ cup (160 ml) coconut milk

• 2 tablespoons coconut oil

• 1¼ cups (100 g) grated fresh coconut (or see recipe introduction)

• Handful of fresh curry leaves

• ½ green chile, sliced

• 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

• Pinch of chile flakes

• Sea salt

• ¼ cup (30 g) broken cashews

• ¼ cup (30 g) golden raisins

Start by rinsing the rice in a bowl of water held under the cool tap, swishing the grains and draining, then refilling, until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well and set aside.
Combine the coconut milk with 2 cups (500 ml) of water and pour into a medium saucepan. Add the rinsed rice and bring slowly to a boil. Partially cover with a lid, reduce the heat and simmer for about 25 minutes, until the rice is just tender and the liquid no longer present. Cover with a kitchen towel and the lid and set aside to rest for 5 minutes.
While the rice rests, put 1½ tablespoons of the coconut oil in a frying pan. Melt over medium heat and add the grated coconut, curry leaves, green chile slices, mustard seeds and chile flakes. Season with salt and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture sizzles slightly. Fold through the rice. Wipe the pan out and return to the heat with the remaining ½ tablespoon of coconut oil. Add the broken cashews and cook until golden all over. Remove from the heat and stir in the raisins with a little more salt. Spoon the coconut rice into a serving bowl, or divide between individual plates or bowls, and top with the cashew and raisin mixture.

Brown Rice Bibimbap Bowls with Smoky Peppers

An exercise in organization if ever there was one, this Korean-inspired dish isn’t hard to make, but it does involve spinning a few plates. Drop one or more of the vegetable elements to make it easier, or get a friend to help you, dividing the cooking between you. Gochujang is a fiery Korean chile paste. Find it online or in East Asian shops or, in a pinch, substitute Thai-Style Roasted Chile Paste.

Serves 4

For the bibimbap

• 1 cup (200 g) brown short-grain rice

• Sea salt

• 4 red peppers, halved

• Peanut oil

• Toasted sesame oil

• Toasted sesame seeds

• Tamari or light soy sauce

• 3 tablespoons gochujang

• 2 tablespoons unrefined brown sugar

• 1 garlic clove, crushed

• 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

• 1 carrot, sliced into matchsticks

• 1¼ cups (100 g) sliced shiitake mushrooms

• 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely chopped

• 2 handfuls of kale, shredded

• 1 cup (100 g) bean sprouts

• 4 very fresh eggs

To serve

• Pickled ginger, finely sliced

• Scallions, finely sliced

• Rehydrated seaweed or nori strips

Start by rinsing the rice in a bowl of water held under the cool tap, swishing the grains and draining, then refilling, until the water runs clear. Drain the rice well and transfer into a saucepan. Cover with 2 cups (450 ml) of water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 25 minutes, until the water has evaporated and the rice is tender.
Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Arrange the pepper halves on a baking sheet, skin sides up. Drizzle with a little peanut oil and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until soft and blackened. Transfer into a bowl and cover with a plate. Leave for 10 minutes, then peel and roughly slice. Season the pepper ribbons with sesame oil, sesame seeds and tamari.
Meanwhile, make the bibimbap sauce by combining the gochujang, sugar, garlic and vinegar with 2 tablespoons each of water, sesame oil and sesame seeds in a small bowl. Season with salt and set aside.
To cook the carrot, heat a whisper of peanut oil in a wok over high heat. Add the carrot and stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes until just tender. Season with salt and set aside. Wipe the wok clean before returning it to the heat. Cook the mushrooms in a little oil in the same way, keeping the heat high and the pan moving until the mushrooms are cooked. Season with tamari.
Again, wipe out the wok. Add a little more oil followed by the ginger and the kale and a splash of water, stir-frying for a few minutes until wilted. Toss with a drizzle of sesame oil, 1 teaspoon of sesame seeds and salt to taste.
Blanch the bean sprouts in boiling salted water for a few seconds, until just wilted. Scoop out with a slotted spoon, refresh under cool water and drain well.
To fry the eggs, pour a thin film of peanut oil into a wok or frying pan set over medium heat. Crack the eggs in separately and fry gently, flicking a little oil over the tops, until they are golden and lacy underneath and the whites have set.

To serve, divide the warm rice between generous warmed serving bowls. Spoon each distinct element on top in a roughly circular pattern: peppers, carrots, mushrooms, greens and bean sprouts. Lay the fried egg on top and add pickled ginger, sliced scallions, seaweed, toasted sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds to taste. Add a generous spoonful of the bibimbap sauce, putting the rest on the table to spoon over as you mix everything together and eat.

Dill and Celery Wild Rice with Roasted Fennel

Celery, fennel and onion all cook down to become soft and sweet. Celery in particular, I feel, is vastly underrated as a cooked vegetable; it is excellent braised or slowly roasted. All that natural sweetness, further enhanced by dried apricots and pecans, makes this baked pilaf of sorts the perfect candidate to accompany a salty slab of baked feta (see Rye Migas, Baked Feta and Hot Caper Salsa) and perhaps a crisp salad of bitter chicory, endive or dandelion greens.

Serves 4

• 1 cup (100 g) pecans

• 3 celery stalks

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 teaspoons coriander seeds, lightly crushed

• 1 small red onion, halved and finely sliced

• 1⅓ cups (250 g) wild rice

• 3¾ cups (900 ml) vegetable stock

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 fennel bulbs, trimmed

• ½ cup chopped (100 g) dried apricots

• Small bunch of dill, chopped

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Spread the pecans out on a baking sheet and roast for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden and toasted. Cool and roughly chop.
Slice 1 celery stalk. Heat the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large Dutch oven set over medium heat. Add the crushed coriander seeds and cook for a minute or so. Stir in the sliced red onion and sliced celery and cook for 5 minutes, until beginning to soften. Now add the wild rice, stirring well to coat with the fat, and pour in the stock. Season lightly with salt and pepper (you can always adjust the seasoning later), cover with a lid and bake for 40 minutes.
Cut the remaining celery stalks into thirds. Trim the bases from the fennel bulbs and cut each into 8 slim wedges. Toss the celery and fennel pieces with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, spread out in a roasting pan and roast alongside the wild rice for about 30 minutes, until soft and sweet. Set aside.
Uncover the pilaf and cook for 15 minutes, then remove from the oven to fold in the roasted vegetables, apricots, toasted pecans and chopped dill. Return to the oven—still uncovered—for 10 to 15 minutes, until no liquid remains. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.

Fava Bean and Asparagus Tostadas with Refried Beans

Grains don’t always have to form the basis of a dish. Here, a little quinoa—strictly a grass and not a grain—is flashed through a frying pan until crisp, adding a clever hit of texture to these tostadas. The refried beans will be better made with freshly cooked beans, but canned are absolutely fine to use, in which case, drain them, but reserve the canning liquid to add as needed.

Serves 4

• ½ cup (50 g) black quinoa

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 red onion, halved

• ¼ cup (60 ml) plus 2 tablespoons sunflower oil

• 1 scant teaspoon cumin seeds

• 1 tablespoon oregano leaves

• 2 cups (300 g) cooked black beans, plus ½ to ⅔ cup (100 to 150 ml) bean cooking liquid (or use one 15-ounce/400 g can and its liquid)

• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped

• 1 bunch of asparagus, trimmed and chopped

• 1 cup (150 g) shelled fresh fava beans

• 8 small corn tortillas

• 1 cup (100 g) coarsely grated Wensleydale or feta

Cover the quinoa with ½ cup (125 ml) of water in a small saucepan, add a fat pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, until the grains have unfurled slightly. Set aside.
Finely slice half the red onion and set aside. Finely chop the remaining half. Add 1 tablespoon of the sunflower oil to a saucepan and set over medium heat. Add the chopped onion with a pinch of salt and cook for 5 minutes, until softening. Stir in the cumin seeds and half the oregano and cook until the onion is golden. Stir in the black beans and cook for a minute to warm through, then stir in ½ cup (100 ml) of their cooking or canning liquid and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and, using a potato masher, crush the beans roughly, seasoning generously with salt and pepper and adding more liquid if they are too thick, or simmering down a little if they seem thin. You want a soft, spoonable purée. Cover and keep warm.
Put a frying pan over high heat and add 1 tablespoon of sunflower oil. Add the sliced onion, garlic and asparagus. Season and stir-fry for 3 to 4 minutes, until the asparagus is almost tender. Add the fava beans and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and keep warm.
Wipe out the pan and return to the heat with the remaining ¼ cup (60 ml) oil. Flick a drop of water at the pan: If it dances and spits, it is hot enough. Add half the tortillas and cook for 30 seconds on each side, turning with tongs when pale golden and crisp. Drain on paper towels and repeat, topping up the oil if needed. Keep the pan on the heat (there should be about 1 tablespoon of oil left, drain any excess away) and quickly add the quinoa, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes, until each sphere has reduced in size, turning crunchy. Add the remaining oregano, season and remove from the heat.
Spoon refried beans onto each crisp tostada, top with the asparagus mixture and spoon over the crisp quinoa and grated Wensleydale.

Very Green Spelt “Risotto”

This verdant “risotto” is particularly elegant served as I have described below, with more spinach leaves, roasted winter squash and a lemon and thyme crème fraîche, but you could always substitute celery root or even plump tomatoes for the squash, if you prefer. Or forget the embellishments and serve the risotto just as it is, with the extra cheese pared over the top with a vegetable peeler.

Serves 4 generously

• One 21-ounce (600 g) piece of firm winter squash, deseeded

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• A few sprigs of thyme

• 1½ quarts (1.5 L) vegetable stock

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

• 4 shallots, finely chopped

• 1¾ cups (375 g) pearled spelt

• ½ cup (125 ml) dry white wine

• 10 cups (300 g) spinach leaves, plus more to serve

• Extra virgin olive oil, to taste

• ½ cup (50 g) finely grated vegetarian Parmesan cheese, plus more, shaved, to serve

• ¼ cup (60 g) crème fraîche

• Finely grated zest and 1 tablespoon juice of 1 unwaxed lemon

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Slice the squash into 4 wedges. Toss them in a roasting pan with 2 tablespoons of the regular olive oil and all but 2 of the thyme sprigs. Roast for 30 minutes or so, until browned and soft.
You will need a grand total of 3 pans here, so bear with me. Put the stock in a saucepan and bring it to a simmer. Reduce the heat and keep it hot.
Heat the butter and remaining 1 tablespoon of regular olive oil in a second saucepan over low heat. Add the shallots and cook for 5 minutes, until translucent, but not colored. Spoon half into a bowl and set aside. Increase the heat slightly and stir in the spelt. Add the wine and stir until it has nearly all evaporated. Add a ladleful of hot stock and stir until it has nearly evaporated before adding another. Continue in this way, adding stock and stirring constantly, for about 20 minutes, until the spelt is almost cooked. Make sure you have about ½ cup (100 ml) of stock left.
Transfer the reserved shallots to a deep-sided frying pan. Set it over medium heat and add the spinach with the remaining stock. Heat until the spinach wilts. Transfer to a blender with a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and blend to make a velvet-textured purée.
The spelt grains should still have a little bite and the overall consistency should be thicker than a standard risotto. Stir in the spinach purée with the finely grated Parmesan. Cover and leave to settle for a few minutes. Strip the leaves from the remaining sprigs of thyme and stir through the crème fraîche with the lemon zest and juice and seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.
Divide the risotto between serving bowls (it won’t sit on a plate), topping with roasted squash, a few extra spinach leaves, spoonfuls of thyme and lemon cream and Parmesan shavings. Finish with a little extra virgin olive oil, if you like.

Cress, Millet and Beet Salad with Cilantro Yogurt

This is an excellent opportunity to use up any cold-pressed oil you might have sitting in the fridge. It will add great flavor to the fluffy millet grain, as well as precious polyunsaturated fatty acids. I love pumpkin seed oil, but you could use any nut oil or avocado, canola or hemp. Substitute more cilantro or more cress for the microherbs, if you can’t get them easily or cheaply.

Serves 4

• 12 multicolored beets, scrubbed and cut into wedges

• A few sprigs of thyme

• ¼ cup (60 ml) olive or canola oil

• 1 cup (200 g) millet

• 2 cups (450 ml) vegetable stock

• 2 preserved lemons, rind only, roughly chopped

• 1 green chile, deseeded if you like, roughly chopped

• Large handful of cilantro, half finely chopped

• ¾ cup (200 g) mild Greek or plain yogurt

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 3 small containers cress, snipped

• Handful of sprouts or microherbs, such as cilantro microgreens (coriander cress)

• Extra virgin olive oil or pumpkin seed oil, to drizzle

• Squeeze of lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Coat the beets and sprigs of thyme in 2 tablespoons of the regular olive or canola oil, spread out in a baking pan and roast for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring halfway, until soft and tinged with brown.
Rinse the millet in a sieve held under a cool running tap. Drain well. Put the remaining 2 tablespoons of the regular olive or canola oil in a large frying pan set over medium-high heat. Add the rinsed millet and toast it, stirring often, for 6 minutes or so, until the water evaporates and the grains turn an even, pale golden color and smell fragrant.
Add the stock, bring to a boil, partially cover with a lid, reduce the heat and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, until all the liquid has been absorbed and the millet is fluffy and soft. Set aside to steam off the heat for 10 minutes. After this time the grains should no longer have a mealy texture (as does only partially cooked millet).
Pound the preserved lemon rind and green chile together with a mortar and pestle until pulverized. Stir the finely chopped cilantro into the yogurt with this pounded lemon-chile mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve the roasted beets on the millet with the cress and sprouts, reserved cilantro leaves and spoonfuls of cilantro yogurt, all drizzled with extra virgin olive and a good squeeze of lemon juice.

Roasted Cauliflower and Sesame Bowls with Miso

Comfort food can appear in many guises. This bowl of thoughtfully spiced and dressed grains, vegetables and leaves is simple to throw together if you are feeling fragile. Use any grain you like, though I suggest choosing similarly sized grains or groats to suit the cooking times below. Farro, kamut, oat (groats), pot or Scotch barley, rye, spelt and wheat all have great character and respond well to a bout of oven-toasting.

Serves 2

• ½ cup (100 g) grains (see recipe introduction)

• 1¼ cups (250 ml) vegetable stock

• 3¾ cups (400 g) cauliflower florets

• 2 tablespoons sunflower oil

• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric

• ½ teaspoon chile flakes

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 5 tablespoons sesame seeds

• 2 tablespoons mellow miso paste

• 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

• 2 teaspoons maple syrup

• ½-inch (1.5 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely grated

• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil, plus more to serve

• 4 scallions, finely sliced

• Handful of cilantro, roughly chopped

• Handful of baby kale leaves

• 2 tablespoons sprouts or cress

• Sambal Oelek, or chile sauce, to serve

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Spread the grains out in a roasting pan and roast for 12 to 15 minutes, shaking the pan partway through, until the grains turn a couple of shades darker and smell nutty. Transfer into a saucepan and pour in the stock. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 25 minutes or so, until the grains are just tender but still retain a touch of bite. Different grains will vary, so check the pan every now and then, splashing in more water if the pan looks dry.
In a second roasting pan, toss the cauliflower with the sunflower oil, turmeric and chile flakes. Season generously with salt and pepper and spread out in a single layer. Roast for 15 minutes, then scatter with 2 tablespoons of the sesame seeds and roast for 5 minutes more, until tender and deeply golden.
Toast the remaining 3 tablespoons of sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium-low heat until golden.
To make the dressing, put 2 tablespoons of the toasted sesame seeds in a powerful blender with the miso, vinegar, maple syrup, ginger, 2 teaspoons of toasted sesame oil and ¼ cup (60 ml) of water. Blend until smooth. Taste and season as needed.
Toss a spoonful of the dressing through the cooked grains with nearly all the scallions and chopped cilantro. Divide between 2 serving bowls with the baby kale and the cauliflower. Drizzle with the rest of the dressing and scatter with the remaining scallions and cilantro and the sprouts. Finish with a final scattering of sesame seeds, a drizzle of sesame oil and a spoonful of sambal, if you like.

Brown Rice Congee with Asian Greens

Cooking the rice separately at first makes its second simmer shorter, keeping the flavors fresh and true but still allowing it time to break down slightly into a magnificent savory porridge. Swap in another sweet root such as celery root or parsnip for the carrot, if you like, or add a halved (boiled) or whole (fried or poached) egg on top. Use any tender Asian leaves here, or substitute watercress, spinach or young kale.

Serves 4

• 1¼ cups (200 g) long-grain brown rice

• Sea salt

• 2 tablespoons coconut oil

• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece fresh ginger root, peeled and finely grated

• 1 red chile, sliced

• ½- to 1-inch (1.5 to 2.5 cm) piece fresh turmeric, peeled and finely grated, optional

• 1 large carrot, coarsely grated

• 1⅓ cups (120 g) sliced mushrooms, such as shiitake

• 1 quart (1 L) weak vegetable stock, plus more if needed

• Large handful of tender Asian greens, such as mizuna, mustard greens, or tatsoi

• 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

• Small handful of cilantro, roughly chopped

• Your choice of toasted sesame seeds, crisp fried shallots or sliced scallions, or all 3, to serve

If you can, soak the rice in plenty of cool water for at least 4 hours or overnight. This will lessen the cooking time dramatically and make for a more porridge-like congee. Rinse the rice in a sieve held under cold running water. Drain well, transfer into a large saucepan and add 2⅓ cups (550 ml) cool water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, cover with a lid—set very slightly ajar—and reduce the heat to low-ish. Cook for 35 minutes or so, until no liquid remains and the rice is extremely tender. Remove from the heat.
When the rice is nearly done, put the coconut oil, garlic, ginger, chile and turmeric, if using, in a large wok or saucepan. Set over high heat and stir-fry until the mixture begins to fizz, but not color. Once softened (about 30 seconds), add the carrot and mushrooms and stir-fry for a couple of minutes. Transfer the cooked rice into the wok, pour the stock over and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat to keep the mixture simmering merrily and leave to cook for 35 minutes or so, stirring occasionally. The rice should break down a little to form a porridge-like consistency, but it will take a long time to become completely smooth (so be aware if you want a smoother congee). Adjust the consistency as you wish: For a thicker result, continue to simmer; or add extra stock or water to thin the mixture down. When you are roughly happy with the consistency, add the greens and cook for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and season with salt to taste.
Stir in the sesame oil and serve scattered with cilantro and your choice of sesame seeds, fried shallots or sliced scallions (or all 3).