Penne Salad with Broccoli Garlic
Buckwheat Noodle and Sticky Salmon with Avocado-Miso Dressing
Sesame Noodles with Savoy Cabbage and Shredded Chicken
Arugula with Carrot Pesto Orzo
Turmeric Grilled Shrimp with Rice Noodle, Nuac Cham, and Greens
Pasta Salad with Sardines, Roasted Tomatoes, Pine Nuts, and Raisins
THERE ARE TIMES WHEN I AM desperate for some vegetables and equally ravenous, and I know a simple green salad won’t cut it. It’s these moments when I turn to noodles. Noodles offer necessary carbohydrates and aid in the feeling of fullness. They also offer variety and texture to a salad and cook up quickly.
Many cultures rely on noodles for daily meals. Italians have pasta in hundreds of shapes and sizes, and in Asia noodles range from thick wheat udon to thread-thin rice noodles. Typically, I purchase a few of each and keep them stocked in my pantry, grabbing what inspires me in the moment or fulfills my dietary demands.
All noodles can be simply dressed and tossed with salad greens if you’re crunched for time—just make sure to add more dressing. Here, the recipes reflect the extra bulk and the proportions on the dressings have been increased to make sure each noodle is generously coated.
Choose your green based on preference or texture. Fat noodles pair well with sturdy greens, whereas thin noodles partner with a spring green mix. Noodles also allow for expanding into other “salad green” territory with any vegetable. I cook down broccoli and carrots, mashing them into a salad sauce that coats and can be served at room temperature or chilled. Think of these as updated pasta salads. These are great for make-ahead meals or parties, as the flavor and texture will hold after hours of sitting in a bowl.
Cook times vary widely across noodle types, so always follow the package’s directions. Wheat noodles are best if left slightly al dente, so be sure to taste regularly. Same with gluten-free pasta, if you’re using that—a little undone is better than overly mushy pasta. Rice noodles are best if left in hot water until entirely soft. I like to salt my water every time I make a noodle, adding a bit of flavor, but you’re welcome to skip this step.
Outside of traditional noodles, you can mix it up by using fresh noodles in any of the recipes. I suggest seaweed “noodles” in one of the recipes—they are made from kelp, are crisp, and are a brilliant choice for anyone with a dietary restriction.
with Broccoli Garlic
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
2 large stalks broccoli
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
6 cloves garlic, quartered
½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
4 cups penne pasta
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino
Pasta salads are easy and filling—this is one of my favorites. A bountiful portion of garlic is slow cooked in an equally indulgent amount of olive oil, turning it velvety and sweet. From here, soft, steamed broccoli is added and smashed, breaking into small bits, before being combined with penne pasta. It’s an excellent salad in summer, where it can sit in the heat for hours and not suffer—the flavor actually develops when slightly warm.
► To prep the broccoli, cut off the stems along the main broccoli stalks, and break or cut off small pieces of the florets. Use a vegetable peeler to shave the outer, tough layer of the stalks, and finely chop the smaller stems and the peeled stalks. In a large saucepan over high heat, bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the broccoli florets, chopped stems, and stalks, and cover, reducing heat to medium low. Simmer until the broccoli is very soft and can be easily smashed with a fork, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain the broccoli and set aside.
► In a large, deep-sided sauté pan over medium heat, warm the oil, then add the garlic cloves and salt. Cook until the garlic is translucent and crisped on the outside, about 15 minutes. You do not want the cloves to brown, so reduce the heat if they are cooking too quickly.
► Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat and add the penne. Cook until al dente, about 12 minutes (or according to the instructions on the package). Drain, reserving ½ cup of the cooking liquid, and set aside.
► Add the steamed broccoli to the garlic and oil. Cook until the broccoli is very soft and starts to brown slightly, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, about once every 5 minutes. Using the back of a fork, smash the broccoli and garlic into small pieces. Add another spoonful of the oil if the pan goes dry.
► Increase the heat to high. When the broccoli starts sticking to the pan, stir in the reserved cooking liquid, cooked penne, and pepper. Remove the pan from the heat and serve immediately, portioning into shallow bowls, dividing the Parmesan evenly over the top of each serving, and seasoning to taste with salt and pepper.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 (8-ounce) package soba noodles
½ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons maple syrup
4 (4-ounce) fillets wild salmon
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE AVOCADO-MISO DRESSING:
1 medium avocado
½ cup water
1 tablespoon white miso
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
4 cups spinach leaves
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
½ cup fresh mint leaves
2 green onions, chopped
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds (optional)
1 medium jalapeño, sliced (optional)
When I’m in a hurry, I quickly boil some soba noodles, which are traditionally made with buckwheat flour—a great gluten-free source of protein. (Buckwheat is a flower, not a grain.) Salmon, too, cooks very quickly and allows this meal to be on the table fast. Make the avocado-miso dressing last, as it discolors quickly.
► Prepare the soba noodles according to the instructions on the package. Drain well and put the noodles in a medium bowl. Set aside.
► To make the salmon, preheat the broiler. In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce and maple syrup and stir until combined and set aside. Rub the salmon fillets with the oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. On a parchment-lined baking sheet, place the fillets so they are not touching and put the baking sheet under the broiler and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the salmon from the oven and brush with half of the soy glaze. Put it back under the broiler for 1 minute more. Remove it from the oven again, glaze the salmon once more (using the rest of the glaze), and put it under the broiler again until the salmon is just cooked through and the glaze is blackening, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the salmon from the oven and set aside.
► To make the avocado-miso dressing, in a blender on high speed, puree the avocado, water, miso, lemon juice, honey, and mustard until very smooth, about 30 seconds.
► In a medium bowl, toss the noodles with the avocado-miso dressing, spinach, cilantro, and mint until well combined. Divide the salad across four shallow bowls and top each with one piece of salmon and the green onions. Garnish with the sesame seeds and jalapeño and serve.
with Savoy Cabbage and Shredded Chicken
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
½ cup avocado oil
1 tablespoon red chili flakes
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
¼ cup tahini
¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar
12 ounces ramen, udon, or soba noodles
3 cups shredded savoy cabbage
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 6 ounces each), poached and torn into large pieces
1 cup fresh cilantro leaves (optional)
1 cup bean sprouts (optional)
A traditional sesame noodle recipe, this salad is delicious served warm straight from the pan, or chilled in the refrigerator and eaten cold. They serve this dish at one of my favorite hole-in-the-wall Szechuan places in Seattle, and this is a close approximation, minus the hand-cut noodles. Noodles and frilly cabbage are tossed in a sesame dressing that is heavily spiked with red chili flakes—if you don’t like heat, make sure to add less—and balances between spicy and cooling. Savoy cabbage is a frilly variety that is lighter and softer than traditional white cabbage, and chicken adds healthy, lean protein.
► In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, heat the avocado oil. When the oil begins to ripple slightly, add the chili flakes and sesame seeds and stir regularly until the seeds are toasted and fragrant. Add the tahini, vinegar, soy sauce, sesame oil, and sugar to the pan and remove from the heat. Whisk to combine until the sauce is smooth. Set aside.
► Cook the noodles according to the instructions on the package. Drain well, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking liquid, and put the noodles into the large sauté pan. Add some of the reserved cooking liquid to thin the sauce, if desired. Add the cabbage and chicken, and using large tongs, stir all to coat well.
► Divide warm salad among four bowls or plates and garnish with the cilantro and bean sprouts.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
6 medium carrots (about 1 pound), peeled and halved lengthwise
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for garnish
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup toasted whole hazelnuts
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan or pecorino, plus more for garnish
1 clove garlic
1 pound orzo
6 cups arugula
I am a huge fan of cooked and mashed vegetables as a base for “pesto.” This is a delicious room-temperature salad that can be made ahead or left to sit on a buffet table for hours without sacrificing the texture or flavor. This orzo pasta salad is a favorite for both adults and kids. The sweetness of the carrots appeal to all, and with a healthy dose of Parmesan over the top, it’s a cheesy mass that most people adore.
► Preheat the oven to 475 degrees F.
► On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the carrots with 2 tablespoons of the oil and a pinch of the salt and pepper, until well coated. Spread the carrots out on the baking sheet so they are not touching, and roast for 20 minutes, until the carrots are cooked through and charred, turning once halfway through.
► Once the carrots are cooked, in a food processor or strong blender, put the carrots, hazelnuts, Parmesan, and garlic. With the food processor running slowly, pour in the remaining ¼ cup oil until well blended and pesto-like. Set aside until ready to use.
► Cook the orzo according to the instructions on the package. Drain, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking liquid. In a large bowl, combine the orzo, reserved cooking liquid, and carrot pesto. Stir well until the orzo is coated and the pesto is combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Fold in the arugula and serve. If you like, scoop the orzo onto a large platter and drizzle with additional oil and a sprinkling of Parmesan before serving.
with Rice Noodle, Nuac Cham, and Greens
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for cooking the shrimp
2 tablespoons ground turmeric
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning
Kosher salt
1 pound shrimp or prawns, shelled and thawed
FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
¾ cup freshly squeezed lime juice (from about 6 limes)
½ cup fish sauce
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup warm water
2 teaspoons red chili flakes
8 ounces rice noodles
8 cups mixed greens (spring greens, green leaf, romaine, watercress, etc.)
½ cup fresh mint leaves
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves
This salad is friendly with all greens and it’s a great way to use lettuce that needs eating. If you dine out and order a rice noodle bowl, its typically more noodles than greens, but here I inverse the portions making it a raw salad with a few noodles tossed in for texture. A traditional Vietnamese vinaigrette is used to liberally coat the veg, noodles, and shrimp—it’s a generous portion of vinaigrette that you can use in one go or save some of for another recipe. Personally, I like mine soaked. Earthy flavor is added with the turmeric-coated shrimp—an appealing peppery bite that goes well with the cooling flavors of the salad, but be mindful as turmeric stains everything, clothes, countertops, pans, hands, etc.
► In a medium bowl, stir together the oil, turmeric, pepper, and a pinch of the salt until coated thickly. The marinade should be thick and paste-like. Add the shrimp, allowing them to marinate for at least 15 minutes, or you can leave them in the refrigerator overnight.
► To make the vinaigrette, in a medium bowl, combine the lime juice, fish sauce, brown sugar, water, and chili flakes, and stir until the brown sugar is dissolved. Set aside.
► To prepare the noodles, set a large saucepan of water over high heat and bring to a boil. While waiting for the water to boil, preheat the broiler. Once the water is boiling, remove the saucepan from the heat, drop in the rice noodles, and cook according to instructions on the package—about 5 minutes for most thin rice noodles—until just soft. Drain and rinse the noodles under cool water, which helps prevent them from sticking.
► In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pan in a pool of oil. When the oil is rippling, add the shrimp and cook until they’re opaque on the sides, 2 to 3 minutes. (Don’t panic if all the marinade does not stick to the shrimp.) Flip the shrimp over and cook until they are cooked through and firm, 2 to 3 minutes more. Remove the shrimp from the pan and set aside.
► To compose the salad, in a large bowl, put the greens, mint, cilantro, noodles, and half of the vinaigrette. Stir well to combine. Divide the salad evenly among four shallow bowls, top with equal portions of shrimp, and serve. Serve any extra vinaigrette on the side, and add as desired.
with Sardines, Roasted Tomatoes, Pine Nuts, and Raisins
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
1 pound roma tomatoes or other paste variety, cut into ½-inch-thick slices
8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 cloves garlic, smashed and roughly chopped
¼ cup pine nuts
2½ cups small pasta (penne, rigatoni, fusilli, farfalle)
¼ cup golden raisins
3 cups arugula
1 (4-ounce) tin sardines, drained and broken into large chunks
Sardines are full of omega-3 fatty acids (which have amazing anti-inflammatory properties), zinc, and calcium—they are an excellent fish to incorporate into your diet and are widely available and affordable as a tinned cold-water fish. Tomatoes are slow roasted, which concentrates their flavor into a sultry heap of chewy tomato. If you have room in the oven, make a double batch and save some for later. This salad can be made as a main meal, is great for crowds, and can be eaten hot, cold, or room temperature. While the ingredients are not the most common, don’t shy away from this recipe. It’s a winner.
► Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
► On a baking sheet, spread the tomato slices in a single layer, being sure not to overlap the edges. Drizzle with 4 tablespoons of the oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bake for 45 minutes and then remove from the oven and turn the tomatoes over. Increase oven temperature to 400 degrees F and roast until the tomatoes have caramelized and are syrupy, about 20 minutes more.
► In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons oil. Add the garlic and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the pine nuts to pan and stir often until the nuts are toasted and brown, about 5 minutes more. Remove the pan from the heat. In a blender or food processor or with a mortar and pestle, puree the pine nut mixture into a chunky paste.
► To compose the salad, cook the pasta according to the instructions on the package. When cooked to al dente, drain the pasta, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking liquid, and add it to a large bowl. To the same bowl, add the reserved cooking liquid, roasted tomatoes, pine nut paste, and raisins, and fold to combine. Add the arugula and sardines and fold once or twice to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
FOR THE PEANUT SAUCE:
½ cup crunchy or smooth peanut butter
¼ cup hot water
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon fish sauce
½ lemon, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon kosher salt
16 large shrimp, thawed
1 package seaweed noodle (about 12 ounces)
12 leaves romaine, cut into 2-inch-wide ribbons
Seaweed noodles are becoming more widely available at health food stores and co-ops, and it’s worth a trip to source them. Made from kelp and sold raw, they are a nice change of pace from a starchy noodle, fresh and crispy, and a healthy, gluten-free option. Doused in a thick peanut sauce and tossed with steamed prawns and romaine, this is a great salad for a weekday lunch, as it keeps well and won’t wilt or turn mushy once dressed. If you can’t find seaweed noodles (either fresh or dry), substitute soba noodles or rice noodles—both will be equally delicious.
► To make the peanut sauce, in a medium bowl, combine the peanut butter, water, soy sauce, lime juice, vinegar, oil, and fish sauce, and smash together with the tines of a fork until the peanut butter is well combined and the sauce is smooth. You can also puree the ingredients in a blender on high speed if you prefer, though if you’re using crunchy peanut butter, this will break down the nut pieces. Set the peanut sauce aside.
► To prepare the shrimp, fill a medium saucepan with water and set over high heat. Add the lemon slices and salt and bring to a boil. While the water is coming to a boil, prepare an ice water bath—add several ice cubes to a large bowl of cold water and set aside.
► Once the water in the saucepan is boiling, add the shrimp and cook until just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook! Using a slotted spoon, remove the shrimp and immediately put them in the ice water bath to halt cooking. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel and set aside.
► While the shrimp are cooling, prepare the seaweed noodles according to the instructions on the package and transfer them to a large bowl. Add the romaine and pour over the peanut sauce. Stir well to combine. Portion the salad across four shallow bowls, top with equal servings of the shrimp, and serve.
