CHAPTER EIGHT
salads for a crowd

COOKING FOR A CROWD IS A juggling act of timing everything. If you’re having people over, you want a menu that can be made mostly ahead so that you are not stuck in the kitchen while guests are gathering. Other times cooking for a crowd demands you make a salad in advance and take it somewhere—think potlucks, picnics, and dinner parties. For all variables in feeding the masses, these salads were designed with holdover in mind—you can make them two to three hours ahead (and often prep the day before) without fear of the salad wilting into a soggy heap.

Certain vegetables are better than others when cooking for crowds. Those with strong structures do well—stalks, stems, and hearty greens. It’s the web of cellulose in plants that keep them firm. Most vegetables from the cruciferous family are wonderful choices. Cabbage, broccoli, brussels sprouts, kale—all of these have strong, structured leaves that can sit in acid for some time before going limp. Fruit of plants, too, make for sturdy choices. Green beans, eggplants, and corn can all withstand long soaks in a bath of vinaigrette without adversely affecting their texture and flavor.

Keeping vegetables raw ensures they maintain a crisp bite, but sometimes roasting in advance produces a luscious, velvety quality. In particular, eggplant is a wonderful veg to roast and toss in vinaigrette. As it sits in the dressing, the flavors are absorbed into the flesh and this summer veg turns silky.

Whether raw or cooked, these salads are long-standing winners. Cut any recipe in half for a smaller group of people, or double it if you’re serving the masses. And, as always, institute the cardinal rule—taste as you go and adjust the seasonings and vinaigrette proportions to your liking.

with Mustard Vinaigrette

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

½ pound small waxy potatoes (round yellow, Yukon Gold, or Red Bliss)

2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

2 tablespoons minced shallot

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for seasoning

½ pound sugar snap peas (about 2 cups), chopped

½ cup chopped fresh parsley

½ cup chopped fresh dill

4 cups arugula or other sturdy greens (kales, mustards, etc.)

This salad is as affordable as it is delicious. Perfect in early spring, when there is not much by way of local greens, baby potatoes are tossed with whole snap peas, pods and all, and doused in a bracing and punchy vinaigrette. Use whatever tender herbs you can get your hands on—chervil, tarragon, cilantro, and chives all work well. Here, warm potatoes soak up the vinaigrette and help break down chewy pea pods—a perfect marriage of spring vegetables.

Peel the potatoes and submerge them immediately in a large bowl of cool water. Once all the potatoes are peeled, move them to a large pot and cover them with cold water. Add the salt and bring the potatoes to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat slightly, and cook until the potatoes are just tender, 5 to 20 minutes.

While the potatoes are cooking, in a large salad bowl, put the shallots and vinegar and let it sit for 5 minutes to macerate. Add the oil, mustard, and pepper and stir well with a fork to emulsify the oil with the vinegar and mustard.

Once the potatoes are tender, drain them, reserving ¼ cup of the cooking liquid. Break the potatoes in half, using your hands, so there are rough edges that soak up the vinaigrette. While the potatoes are still warm, add them and the reserved cooking liquid to the salad bowl and, using a large spoon, fold gently to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add the snap peas, parsley, dill, and greens and fold gently once. Leave covered on the countertop until ready to serve.

with Pecorino and Pine Nuts

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

2 pounds large asparagus

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 ounces shaved pecorino

1 cup toasted pine nuts

This is one of my favorite salads. It is simple, delicious, and elegant—a beautiful salad to prepare for a special meal. We don’t often see asparagus served raw, but the tender stalks are actually pretty tasty and crispy when eaten raw. The nutty flavor is pronounced, and they hold their crisp quality, making them perfect for crowds and make-ahead bowls of salad. Opt for thicker spears, making it easier to shave off ribbons of salad.

Hold the asparagus up by the tip in one hand, and using a vegetable peeler, shave off long, thin strips. As the tips are tender, go slowly or snap them off and add them to the bowl whole. When all the asparagus are shaved, add the oil and lemon juice and fold gently to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

On a large platter, place the salad, scatter the pecorino and pine nuts over the top, and serve.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 2 medium lemons)

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons minced shallot

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon maple syrup

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup peanut oil

2 cups walnuts

¾ cup sugar, divided

Kosher salt

1½ pounds brussels sprouts, shredded

1 cup finely grated pecorino

Freshly ground black pepper

Shaved brussels sprouts make for a hearty and surprising salad—most people expect brussels sprouts to be cooked. Shaved thinly, brussels sprouts are tender and won’t break down quickly in acids, making them an ideal choice for crowds and make-ahead salads. For quick prep, use the slicing disc on your food processor—shredding all these sprouts will take seconds. If you don’t have a food processor, get ready for some chopping! Take your time and make the slices as thin as possible.

To make the vinaigrette, in a medium bowl, put the lemon juice, mustard, and shallot and let the shallots macerate, about 20 minutes. Whisk in the olive oil and maple syrup until well combined and emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.

To make the candied walnuts, cover the bottom of a large, deep-sided sauté pan with the peanut oil; let it pool a bit. Heat the pan over medium-high heat, and when the oil begins to ripple slightly, add the walnuts, stirring continuously so they don’t burn. When the walnuts start to smoke and brown, add ½ cup of the sugar and toss, toss, toss! You don’t want to burn that sugar.

After the sugar is dissolved and the nuts are well coated, 3 to 4 minutes, use a slotted spoon to put the nuts in a glass bowl with the remaining ¼ cup sugar and a good pinch of salt. Working quickly, stir to combine and then set aside to cool. Once the nuts are cool, remove them from the bowl, leaving behind any residual sugar.

To compose the salad, add the brussels sprouts and pecorino to the vinaigrette and fold to combine well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. On a large platter, place the salad, sprinkle with the candied walnuts, and serve.

with Basil-Lime Vinaigrette

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Zest from ½ medium lime

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

¼ cup chopped fresh basil

1 medium head Napa cabbage (about 1½ to 2 pounds), cored and shredded

6 medium apples (Pink Lady, Empire, Honeycrisp, etc.), cored and thinly julienned

Freshly ground black pepper

This salad is refreshing and versatile. Less chewy than green cabbage, Napa cabbage is soft and frilly. This light salad can be served on its own as a side salad, or act as a filler for sandwiches and tacos alike. I make a half batch and use it as a garnish over stews and soup, or add some avocado and leftover roast chicken for a more robust and quick weekday meal. Be sure to use a mandoline if you have one, or a sharp knife, and take your time, getting the cabbage as thin as possible.

In a large jar or blender, put the oil, vinegar, honey, lime juice and zest, mustard, cayenne, and salt. Shake vigorously or blend on high speed until well blended and emulsified. Add the vinaigrette to a large salad bowl and stir in the basil.

To the bowl, add the cabbage and apples and toss the ingredients, using both hands or a large spoon. I like to use my hands, ensuring the whole salad gets dressed. Stir very well until the ingredients are well combined and the cabbage is evenly coated. Set aside for at least 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

with Cherry Tomatoes, Avocado, and Basil

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

6 ears sweet corn, husked

2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved

2 medium avocados, cut into 1-inch cubes

½ cup chopped fresh basil

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

This is one of my all-time favorite summer salads, and it is so unbelievably simple that I am betting it becomes a favorite of yours too. It’s great served with anything from the grill or as a fresh, light side dish. In-season corn is paired with ripe tomatoes and creamy avocados for a harmonious blend and colorful dish. For a different variation and some heat, add chopped jalapeño. Or swap out the basil for a mix of herbs. Or add some grilled green onions! This is a fabulous salad to add to your summer lineup.

Fill a large pot with a lid with 1 inch of water and bring it to a boil over high heat. While the water is coming to a boil, prepare an ice water bath—add several ice cubes to a large bowl of cold water and set aside. When the water is boiling, add the ears of corn (breaking them in half if you need to make them fit), cover, and reduce the heat to medium. Steam for 6 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, and using tongs, put the corn directly into the ice water bath until cool, 3 to 4 minutes.

When the corn is cool enough to handle, use a sharp knife to cut the kernels from the corn cob by scraping them with the knife lengthwise. (Set the flat base of the cob against the cutting board for stability.)

In a large salad bowl, put the corn kernels, tomatoes, avocado, and basil. Add the oil and vinegar and stir until well coated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

with Cilantro Vinaigrette

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

3 pounds small Asian eggplant, stemmed and halved lengthwise, then cut into 4-inch-long pieces

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE CILANTRO VINAIGRETTE:

4 green onions, thinly sliced

6 tablespoons fish sauce

6 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice (from about 2 limes)

¼ cup minced shallot

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons sugar

4 teaspoons red chili flakes

1 cup pomegranate seeds (from about ½ pomegranate) (optional)

A perfect accompaniment to grilled foods, this rich-tasting eggplant comes bathed in a pungent vinaigrette spiked with fish sauce. Tossed in olive oil and roasted, eggplant turns supple and has a concentrated flavor that I love. Filling and satiating, this summer fruit makes for a side dish that holds its flavor for hours, even in the sun and heat. I often make a half batch just for myself and eat it for a quick meal over a day or two. The flavors develop as the eggplant marinates, so it’s a perfect choice for long meals, make-ahead recipes, or a backyard barbecue with friends. The vinaigrette is meant to be plentiful, and this salad is strongly flavored, so save any extra for another salad or cut it with some olive oil and dress a bowl of greens.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

In a large mixing bowl, put the eggplant and drizzle with the oil, mixing well to coat each piece. Put the eggplant on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cut side down, and roast in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the eggplant is deep brown on one side.

While the eggplant is roasting, make the vinaigrette. In a large mixing bowl, combine the onion, fish sauce, lime juice, shallot, cilantro, sugar, and chili flakes. Use a whisk to dissolve the sugar.

When the eggplant is nicely brown, remove it from the oven and add it immediately to the vinaigrette. Using a spatula, gently fold the eggplant into the vinaigrette so all the pieces are evenly coated. Set aside for 10 minutes. This allows the flavors to infuse and develop. Garnish with the pomegranate seeds and serve.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

2 stalks rhubarb, chopped (about 2 cups)

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

6 tablespoons avocado or grapeseed oil, divided

1 pound flank steak

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons ground coriander

6 cups arugula or salad greens

2 cups “croutons” (day-old bread cut into 1-inch cubes and grilled or broiled until toasted)

6 ounces blue cheese, crumbled

Parsley leaves (optional)

Celery leaves (optional)

Rhubarb stalks make for excellent purees, adding texture and flavor to thick dressings. Here, cooked and pureed rhubarb is seasoned and then paired with hearty arugula and rich pieces of steak in a tossed salad. The addition of toasted croutons and blue cheese makes this fit for a meal.

To make the vinaigrette, in a small saucepan, add ½ cup water and the rhubarb, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. Once the water is boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the rhubarb is soft and falling apart, about 15 minutes. Drain the rhubarb from the water, and in a blender on high speed, combine the rhubarb mash, maple syrup, and mustard. Slowly pour in 4 tablespoons of the oil until the vinaigrette has emulsified, about 30 seconds. Set aside.

Place the oven rack at the top position—about 6 inches from the broiler coils—and heat the broiler. Season the steak on both sides with the salt, pepper, and coriander and coat with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Lay the steak flat on a baking sheet, place it in the oven, and bake until the steak is brown, about 6 minutes.

Flip the steak over and cook the other side under the broiler until just charred and cooked to medium rare, 6 minutes more. Remove the steak from the oven and let rest it for 10 minutes before slicing it into ½-inch-thick pieces, cutting across the grain.

In a large bowl, add the arugula, croutons, cheese, and half of the vinaigrette. Add the parsley and celery leaves, and toss to combine well. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and divide evenly, adding several slices of steak over each before serving.

with Pomegranate and Orange-Caraway Dressing

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

1 pound white cabbage, cored

½ medium white onion, peeled

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice (from 1 large orange)

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

2 tablespoons caraway seeds, crushed in a mortar and pestle

1 cup pomegranate seeds (from about ½ pomegranate)

1 cup crumbled feta

½ cup whole fresh mint leaves

Cabbage is a cruciferous vegetable that is high in sulfur and therefore encourages your body to produce antioxidant and detoxification proteins. It’s a wonder veg! Winter slaws offer a perfect way to freshen up the typically heavy dishes that predominate when the weather turns cold. In this slaw thinly shaved cabbage is paired with sweet onion and pomegranate seeds for a juicy pop and some color. Slaws are best left to macerate for some time before serving, so plan ahead and let this one rest at least a few hours before the meal. You can play with the flavor profile by adding chopped cilantro, a pinch of cayenne pepper, or a handful of raisins, and this salad can, of course, be made in summer months for outdoor eating or picnic meals—cabbage holds its crunch even in the heat.

Using a sharp knife and working slowly, cut the cabbage into very thin slices—almost shaving them off. The thinner you slice the cabbage, the more appetizing it is. Cut the onion in the same fashion, getting it as thin as possible. Set both aside.

In a large bowl, put the oil, orange juice, vinegar, and caraway seeds and stir well to combine. Add the cabbage and onions and toss well to combine. Cover the bowl with a plate or plastic wrap and set aside on the counter or in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Just before serving, stir in the pomegranate seeds. Pour the salad onto a platter or move to a shallow bowl, sprinkle the feta and mint evenly over the top, and serve.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Kosher salt

2 pounds fresh green beans (haricots verts, romanos, green wax beans, etc.)

FOR THE YOGURT-DILL DRESSING:

½ cup plain yogurt

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup chopped fresh dill

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup toasted and finely chopped hazelnuts

Green beans hold their firmness and shape for days, so they are the perfect choice for serving crowds, allowing home cooks to work many steps ahead of time and have the salad waiting. Choose thin green beans for this salad—they are tenderer and often sweeter than older, more fibrous beans. While a creamy dressing is used here, this salad can be easily updated with a mustard vinaigrette or a miso-based dressing (see this page)—feel free to update it and make it your own.

To prepare the green beans, bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat and season with salt. While the water is coming to a boil, prepare an ice water bath—add several ice cubes to a large bowl of cold water and set aside. Add the green beans to the boiling water, working in batches, and blanch for 2 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Using a slotted spoon, remove the beans from the pot and plunge them into the ice water bath, allowing them to cool 1 to 2 minutes.

Strain the green beans from the water and pat dry.

To make the dressing, in a large bowl, put the yogurt, oil, and dill and stir vigorously until well combined. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then add the green beans and fold until all are well coated. Season to taste again with salt and pepper. Move the beans to a large platter, sprinkle with the hazelnuts, and serve.