CHAPTER NINE

COOLING FLAVORS EMBODY EVERYTHING we think about when we crave salads—a plate of something refreshing and cool, a bite to relieve heat, a light meal. By nature lettuce is cooling, particularly wide-ribbed, white-leafed varieties like romaine and iceberg that pack water into their big cells and are hydrating. Other members of the cooling food family are cucumbers, mint, celery, spinach, and zucchini. Fully ripe fruits—melons, grapes, mangoes—are often cooling as well. Avoid the foods that cause heat within the body, such as ginger, hot peppers, and mustard greens.

Cucumbers and melons are members of the same plant family, and all have fruits that contain a high water content, making them a refreshing choice. These fruits add crispness to recipes and are healthy powerhouses helping regulate blood pressure and maintain a body’s hydration.

In addition to vegetables, dairy-based ingredients are thought to be cooling. The Indian condiment raita (a mix of yogurt and cucumber) is used specifically to cool down spice from their culturally aromatic food. Mango lassi, a mango-yogurt beverage, is also cooling and popular in India, where temperatures soar.

Pair cooling salads with simple foods like grilled fish. Of course, these salads can also complement heavy meals, offsetting the richness. The cucumber-onion-dill combination is a perfect accompaniment at a summer barbecue, next to a plate of grilled steak or ribs.

You can also use the cooling salads as garnish for other recipes. Try dolloping a spoonful of cooling salad on soup as a refreshing topper. The fennel shavings in the salted fennel salad (see this page) are lovely over a bowl of hot bean soup. On really hot days, I’ll reach for the melon and cucumber with prawns salad (see this page) that is full of healthy fat and protein but light enough that it will not slow me down.

with Shrimp and Coconut-Avocado Dressing

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 pound shrimp, shelled and thawed

1 pound Little Gem lettuce (about 4 heads), cut into 1-inch-thick ribbons

1 large ripe avocado

¼ cup coconut milk

2 tablespoons grapeseed or avocado oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

This salad is nutritional perfection, and I lean on it often when I’m short on time and looking for a clean-eating option. Simply steamed shrimp and crispy Little Gem lettuce is doused in a luxurious and creamy dressing made from avocado and coconut milk—a winning combination of good fats. (Be sure to choose coconut milk, not coconut cream.) Little Gem lettuce is a cute name for what is essentially really small heads of romaine. Their leaves tend to be deeply wrinkled and the hearts are crispy and strong—a nice counterpoint to the rich dressing.

To cook the shrimp, in a medium pot with a lid over high heat, heat 1 inch of water. While the water is coming to a boil, prepare an ice water bath—add several ice cubes to a large bowl of cold water and set aside. Once the water is boiling, add the shrimp and cook until they are pink in color and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the shrimp from the heat and drain, plunging them into the ice water bath to halt any further cooking. Once the shrimp are cool, drain them from the cold water and set aside until ready to use.

In a large bowl, put the lettuce and set aside.

In a blender on high speed, blend the avocado, coconut milk, oil, and lime juice until well blended and smooth. If the blender stalls because the mixture is too thick, add a small bit of water—2 tablespoons to start and more only as needed to thoroughly blend.

Using a rubber spatula, scrape all the dressing into a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper before spooning half the mixture over the lettuce. Toss the salad to coat, adding more dressing as necessary. Finally, add the shrimp, toss to combine, and serve.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Kosher salt

1 small or ½ large fennel bulb, cored and shaved (about 2½ cups)

1 large Meyer lemon, or 2 small lemons, rinds removed, seeded, and cut crosswise into rounds

½ cup whole fresh mint leaves

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

Shaved fennel bulb is one of the most refreshing ingredients there is. Soaking it in lightly salted water first ups the crispiness and adds to the lightness of this salad. If you don’t have a mandoline to shave the fennel, use a sharp knife and work slowly to get the thinnest cut possible. Meyer lemons are sweeter than the more traditional Eureka lemons, and their flavor is subtle. Though Meyer lemons are still pungent, your lips will not pucker while eating them! This is an enlivening winter salad to perk you up during dark days.

Fill a large bowl halfway with water and add two handfuls of ice cubes. Sprinkle in salt until the water is lightly salted and add the fennel shavings, letting them sit in the water for 10 to 20 minutes. Strain the fennel and pat it dry with a paper towel.

In a large bowl, put the fennel, lemon slices, mint, oil, and vinegar. Stir gently until combined well. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

with Prawns and Avocado Cream

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 pound frozen prawns, shelled and thawed

1 English cucumber, cubed (about 2 cups)

½ medium honeydew melon, cubed (about 2 cups)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves

1 medium avocado

¼ cup plain yogurt

2 tablespoons grapeseed or avocado oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 tablespoon honey

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melon and cucumber are like peas and carrots, and both are nutritional powerhouses in ways that leafy greens are not. Both are packed with potassium, and honeydew is an anticoagulant (so good for heart health) while cucumbers are one of the best diuretics you can eat. What’s not to love? Paired with healthy-fat avocado and the lean protein of prawns, this salad makes a wonderful summertime lunch.

To cook the prawns, in a medium pot with a lid over high heat, heat 1 inch of water. While the water is coming to a boil, prepare an ice water bath—add several ice cubes to a large bowl of cold water and set aside. Once the water is boiling, add the prawns and cook until they are pink in color and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the prawns from the heat and drain, plunging them into the ice water bath to halt any further cooking. Once the prawns are cool, drain them from the cold water and set aside until ready to use.

In a large bowl, put the cucumber, melon, and mint and set aside.

In a blender on high speed, blend the avocado, yogurt, oil, lime juice, and honey until well blended and smooth. If the blender stalls because the mixture is too thick, add a small bit of water—2 tablespoons to start and more only as needed to thoroughly blend.

Using a rubber spatula, scrape all the dressing into a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper before spooning half the mixture over the salad. Toss the salad to coat, adding more dressing as necessary. Finally, add the prawns, toss to combine, and serve.

with Yogurt-Dill Dressing

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

4 cucumbers, peeled and sliced paper thin

1 small white onion, cut super thin into half moons

¼ cup distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon honey

¼ cup plain yogurt

2 tablespoons fresh dill

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Hitting all the cool notes, this salad is flavorful, cooling, and budget friendly. In this eastern European salad, cucumbers and onions are sliced super thin and lightly pickled in vinegar overnight. From there they are strained and tossed with cooling yogurt-dill dressing that is creamy and satisfying. It makes an excellent side salad on its own or works beautifully next to grilled meats and fish.

In a large sealable container (or a resealable plastic bag), put the cucumbers and onions. Pour in the vinegar, oil, and honey and cover. Shake vigorously until all the cucumbers and onions are well coated and put it in the refrigerator overnight or for at least 6 hours.

Before serving, strain any brine from the bag, reserving 2 tablespoons. In a large bowl, put the mixture and add the yogurt, dill, and reserved brine and fold to combine until well blended and no yogurt lumps are left. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

HOMEGROWN SPROUTS

SPROUTS ARE GERMINATED EDIBLE SEEDS. Seeds store all the energy and food they need to produce healthy plants. By eating them at a very early stage of growth, we reap the rewards of all that good energy. Sprouted seeds are phenomenally nutritious. The process of sprouting increases the vitamin content of seeds significantly. All sprouts contain more vitamin C than an orange, pound for pound, and are a source of a long list of nutrients and vitamins. Many legume sprouts contain a complete protein, making them an excellent choice for vegetarians.

Sprouts add a fresh, crispy texture to salads and are easy to grow at home. You can add a handful of sprouts to any of these recipes with good results. They are particularly delicious with grain bowls, as they add nutrition and texture, and in winter salads they supply high-impact nutrients during a season in which our green leafy options are limited.

Different sprouts will carry different flavors, of course. Legumes like peas or mung beans grow into thick, crunchy sprouts that do not produce green leaves. Broccoli and alfalfa sprouts are more delicate and have an earthy flavor, and are among those that contain chlorophyll and develop green leaves. When selecting what to sprout, make sure to purchase organic seed.

You need only a quart-size glass to get going, which will hold about 2 tablespoons of seed successfully. Light is not necessary to sprout seeds, but you do need to keep them warm and moist. Filtered water is preferred.

TO GROW SPROUTS:

Soak the seeds for a few hours in a few inches of water—larger seeds may need to be soaked overnight. After soaking, drain out the water, rinse the seeds in fresh water, and drain them again. Make sure you don’t leave a pool of water in the jar. (You can leave the jar upside down, covered in a piece of cheesecloth, to ensure drainage.)

Once drained completely but still moist, cover the jar with a thick layer of cheesecloth, secure with a rubber band, and turn the jar on its side to allow for sprouting room and air circulation.

Rinse the jar with fresh water two or three times a day, every day. Drain well each time and set it back on its side. The sprouts should be ready to harvest in 3 to 5 days. Taste them after every rinse to see when the flavor has developed to your taste. When done, fill the jar with water for the last time and remove any thick hulls (the outer covering of the seeds) that float to the top. Drain the sprouts in a colander and eat immediately, or wrap in a single layer of dish towel or paper towel and hold in the refrigerator, where they will keep for 3 to 4 days.

with Cilantro Vinaigrette

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

FOR THE CILANTRO VINAIGRETTE:

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves and stems

1 small Anaheim chili, seeded and chopped

⅓ cup freshly squeezed lime juice (from 2 large limes)

1 teaspoon lime zest

1 teaspoon honey

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium jicama, peeled and cut into matchsticks

2 cups spinach leaves

1 cup romaine or mixed greens

1 large avocado, cubed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

I made a version of this salad from Rick Bayless several years ago for a Fourth of July party and everyone raved. We tend to overlook jicama in the United States—it is an uncommon root vegetable that is native to Mexico, but it has a sweet-starchy quality that is refreshing and filling, and this tuber is packed with potassium and vitamin C. A thin vinaigrette is made from blending cilantro with lime juice and chilies, and it’s excellent on many salads, so I always make a double batch and save some for another day. Anaheim chilies tend to have less heat than most, but use jalapeño or serrano if you’d like to turn up the heat.

To make the vinaigrette, in a blender on high speed, blend the cilantro, chili, lime juice and zest, and honey until well combined. With the blender still running on high, drizzle in the oil until the vinaigrette is emulsified, about 30 seconds. Set aside.

In a large bowl, put the jicama, spinach, romaine, and avocado. Pour in half the vinaigrette and toss to combine. Add more vinaigrette as needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

with Fresh Coconut, Mango, and Cashew Dressing

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

½ cup raw cashews

1 teaspoon honey

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

1 young coconut, meat scooped out and cut into strips and water reserved

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 medium head butter lettuce, leaves torn into large strips

2 cups spinach leaves

1 large mango, peeled and diced

This salad has many cooling flavors, making it an excellent choice for a hot day or to cool fiery digestion in cooler months. Young coconut is available in gourmet grocery stores, like Whole Foods, and Asian markets where it is often less expensive. Use a large spoon to scoop the jellylike and fleshy meat out of young coconuts—it’s easy to do and will be intuitive.

To make the vinaigrette, in a small bowl, add the cashews, honey, cumin, and ½ cup of the reserved coconut water and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. In a blender on high speed, puree the cashew mixture until smooth and creamy. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside until ready to use.

In a large bowl, put the lettuce, spinach, mango, coconut meat, and half of the dressing. Fold to combine and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add more dressing, if desired, and serve.

with Feta and Lemon

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

¼ cup pine nuts

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1 pound zucchini (2 to 3 medium zucchinis)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves

½ teaspoon kosher salt

3 ounces feta, crumbled

Everyone has been raving about the spiralizer for years now, and I finally broke down and bought one after so many good meals. A spiralizer is a hand-cranked kitchen gadget that turns fruits and vegetables into noodle shapes, ribbons, and more. I love the noodle fitting and use it often to produce pasta-like strands of raw vegetables for salads. Here, zucchini gets cranked into long noodles and tossed with a refreshing mix of mint and basil—perfect summertime fare. Of course, if you’re not up for running out to purchase a new kitchen toy, you can always make zucchini ribbons by using a mandoline or vegetable peeler.

In a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat, toast the pine nuts, stirring continuously until they are golden on all sides and you can smell them toasting, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and put the pine nuts on a small plate to cool. Set aside until ready to use.

In a medium bowl, stir together the oil and lemon juice and zest. Set aside. Trim the ends of the zucchinis to remove any discolored portions, leaving the stem intact. Using the spiralizer, make long noodles, cutting them every 4 inches or so and letting them fall into the bowl with oil and lemon. Fold to coat the zucchini noodles. Work quickly, as this dressing helps keep the zucchini from turning brown prior to serving.

Add the basil, mint, salt, and pine nuts to the salad bowl. Fold once or twice until just combined. Transfer the salad to a serving platter or a large, shallow bowl and sprinkle the feta on top. Serve immediately.

with Watermelon Vinaigrette

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

2 cups cubed watermelon, seeded

¼ cup rice wine vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper (optional)

2 heads Little Gem lettuce, leaves removed from core and left whole

½ cup cilantro leaves

1 large ripe avocado, cubed

Little Gem lettuce is like baby romaine. It is firm in texture but has a smaller rib, which I prefer, and is deeply creviced and crinkly, adding crunch to a salad. This recipe makes a large portion of dressing, as watermelon varies in its juiciness. Leftovers will store well in the refrigerator for several days, so hold any residual for another salad. I love this salad for its delicate flavors—cool cilantro and creamy avocado.

In a blender on high speed, puree the watermelon until smooth. (You may need to add a tablespoon of water to get the fruit going.) Add the vinegar and honey and puree again until the pulp is a thin, pourable puree, about 1 minute. Pour the watermelon mixture into a fine-mesh sieve, filtering out any seeds and chunks of watermelon. With the blender running, drizzle in the oil until well blended and emulsified. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

In a large bowl, put the lettuce, cilantro, and avocado and pour in half the vinaigrette. Fold gently to coat, adding more vinaigrette as needed. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.