Ko Samui
Ko Samui Beaches
Ang Thong Marine National Park
Mae Nam Viewpoint Trek
Sights
Activities
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Information
Ko Samui at a Glance…
Ko Samui is a small city by the sea, wearing a soft stole of white sand and adorned by modern conveniences. Curvaceous beaches, fast flights to Bangkok, high-end hotels, all-night parties and luxury spas cement Samui’s reputation as Phuket’s little sister. In places it is glitzy, brash and even slapdash, perfect for holidaymakers who prefer recreation over rest. Yet sleepy villages can still be found and beach-hopping to quieter corners delivers solitude. Samui is everyone’s version of an island idyll, you just have to know where to look.
Ko Samui in Two Days
Laze around the beach, eat, sleep, drink, repeat. Supplement this itinerary with a spa treatment at Tamarind Springs. Have dinner at a local seafood spot, such as Bang Po Seafood. Party with the pros in Chaweng’s beach bars and nightclubs.
Ko Samui in Four Days
Join a tour to Ang Thong Marine National Park. Rent a motorcycle and tour the southern part of the island with stops at Ban Hua Thanon and Hin-Ta and Hin-Yai. Enjoy a splash-out dinner at Dining on the Rocks.
Arriving on Ko Samui
Ko Samui Airport Located in the northeast of the island near Big Buddha Beach. Taxis conduct airport transfers. Boats to nearby islands depart from various piers around Samui and pier transfer is usually included in the ticket price.
Sleeping
Chaweng and Lamai have the largest range of accommodation but they are also the busiest. The north coast is quieter with pretty Choeng Mon, populated mainly by high-end hotels; Bo Phut, with artsy flash-pads; and low-key Mae Nam, which retains some backpacker spots.
For more information, see here.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Ko Samui Beaches
East coast beaches are leggy and legendary, famed for their looks and their parties. The north coast gets quieter and more family-friendly. And the southwestern beaches are perfect for a sundowner.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Doing an around-the-island tour to discover your favourite stretch of sand.
8 Need to Know
Ko Samui’s monsoon season runs from October to December; June to August is peak tourist season.
5
Take a Break
Stop at the roadside curry shops along the ring road for tasty southern-style curries.
oTop Tip
At 229 sq km, Ko Samui is pretty large – the island’s main ring road is over 50km total.
Each beach on Samui has a different personality, ranging from uber-social to quiet recluse.
East Coast
Most of the beach development on Samui is on the east coast. Chaweng has the beach version of an hourglass figure: soft white sand that gently curves from Ko Matlang in the north to Chaweng Noi in the south. The wide centre swath is crowded. Music blares from the beach bars and vendors tirelessly trudge through the sand to deliver amusements.
Lamai is just as pretty but not as famous as flamboyant Chaweng. In fact, Lamai has an identity complex. It is the birthplace of Samui’s fasting culture thanks to Spa Samui’s two Lamai branches, but visitors looking for enlightenment will find hedonism in Lamai’s commercial strip of bars. The southern end of the beach has a more old-fashioned, castaway feel.
North Coast
Samui’s alternative coast, the north coast, is more subdued. Near the northeastern tip, Choeng Mon is a scenic bay with shallow waters and a low-key bar scene that is popular with families. Locals consider Choeng Mon’s crescent-shaped beach to be the best on the island. Next in line is Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak), named after the huge golden Buddha. The beach’s western half is by far the best, with an empty stretch of white sand though uncomfortably close to the main road. Bo Phut and its Fisherman’s Village represent the new generation of Thai beaches. Bo Phut’s beach is pebbly and narrow but the village is the place to be for an evening dinner and stroll. The village retains the ambience of an old fishing town now occupied by design-minded restaurants and hotels. Mae Nam offers the right balance of beach distractions with enough Thai necessities to give it a sense of place. The northwestern peninsula is carved into a few stunning bays for luxury resorts but you can spend the day soaking up the views on Ao Thong Sai.
South & West Coasts
The south coast is good for exploring: cruising through little village lanes, checking out different spits of land, nodding to a forlorn water buffalo. The coast is spotted with rocky headlands and smaller coves of pebble sand that are used more as parking lots for Thai fishing boats than for lounge chairs. The west coast also has views out to the Five Islands and the shadowy greens of the mainland are beguiling.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Ang Thong Marine National Park
The 40-some jagged jungle islands of Ang Thong Marine National Park stretch across the cerulean sea like a shattered emerald necklace. This virgin territory is best explored on a guided tour from Samui.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
The islands’ full-time residents are monkeys, birds, bats and crustaceans.
8 Need to Know
Blue Star (MAP GOOGLE MAP 
%077 300615; www.bluestars.info; tours adult/child 2500/1600B) does popular kayak and snorkel tours to the park.
5 Take a Break
Lunch is provided by most tour groups.
oTop Tip
February, March and April are the best months to visit. The park is often closed during the monsoon months of November and December.
After an hour’s boat journey from Samui, you start to see a looming landmass on the horizon. Slipping closer, the jumbled shadow separates into distinct islands, seemingly moored together. Limestone outcroppings jut skyward like ship masts creating the illusion of anchored shapes in the sapphire-coloured water. Closer still and an internal geometry is revealed: primordial figures woven together by a watery maze. The powerful ocean has whittled dramatic arches and hidden caves into the malleable rock.
Birth of a Park
Designated a park in 1980, Ang Thong (Golden Bowl) is 35km west of Samui. The parks covers a total area of 102 sq km with land comprising only 18 sq km. It used to be a training ground for the Royal Thai Navy. The rugged islands are devoid of human inhabitants except day-trippers. This dynamic landscape hosted the fictionalised commune in the other backpacker bible, The Beach, by Alex Garland.
Ko Mae
The myth-maker is Ko Mae (Mother Island) and its inner lagoon. The exterior of the island is a jagged shell of limestone and grizzled vegetation, but a steep climb up to the top reveals a sink-hole filled with a gleaming gem-coloured lake filled by underwater channels. You can look but you can’t touch: the lagoon is strictly off-limits to the unclean human body.
Ko Wua Talap
Ko Wua Talap (Sleeping Cow Island) is the largest island in the chain and hosts the national park office and visitor bungalows. The island has a stunning mountain-top viewpoint, a necessary reward after clawing your way to the summit of the 450m trail, booby-trapped with sharp jagged rocks. A second trail leads to Tham Bua Bok, a cavern with lotus-shaped stalagmites and stalactites. There is a small sandy beach on the sunrise side of the island and a castaway’s tranquillity.
Other Islands
The naturally occurring stone arches on Ko Samsao and Ko Tai Plo are visible during seasonal tides and certain weather conditions. Because the sea is quite shallow around the island chain, reaching a maximum depth of 10m, extensive coral reefs have not developed except in a few protected pockets on the southwest and northeast sides. There is also some diving, though the park is not as spectacular as other nearby spots. Soft powder beaches line Ko Tai Plao, Ko Wuakantang and Ko Hintap.
Ko Samui
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
1 Sights
Ban Hua ThanonArea
MAP Just south of Hat Lamai, Hua Thanon is full of photo ops and home to a vibrant Muslim community; its anchorage of high-bowed fishing vessels by the almost deserted beach through the palm trees at the end of the community is a veritable gallery of intricate designs, though it’s a shame about all the rubbish on the sand. Look out for the green, gold and white mosque in the village, along the main drag.
Hin-Ta & Hin-YaiLandmark
MAP GOOGLE MAP At the south end of Hat Lamai, you’ll find these infamous genitalia-shaped stone formations (also known as Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks) that provide endless mirth for giggling Thai tourists.
Fisherman’s VillageVillage
MAP This concentration of narrow Chinese shophouses in Bo Phut has been transformed into some trendy (and often midrange) boutique hotels, eateries, cafes and bars. The accompanying beach, particularly the eastern part, is slim and coarse but becomes whiter and lusher further west. The combination of pretty sands and gussied-up old village is a winner, but it can get busy during peak season. Off-season, it’s lovely, quiet and elbow-free.
Na Muang WaterfallsWaterfall
MAP 
F Spilling down from the island’s highest points, these two waterfalls – close to each other – are lovely when in full spate, pouring frigid water into rock pools and gushing down towards the blue sea. The larger of the two, at 30m, is the most famous waterfall on Samui and lies in the centre of the island about 12km from Na Thon. During the rainy season, the water cascades over ethereal purple rocks, and there’s a superb, large pool for swimming at the base.
Wat Plai LaemBuddhist Temple
(MAP; 
hdawn-dusk) F
The most arresting statue on the island is the thousand-arm Kwan Im (the Buddhist bodhisattva of compassion), displayed here with 18 arms, in a fan arrangement at this recently built, stunning temple. Perched on an island in a lake, the colourful statue rises up next to a temple hall – similarly constructed above the water. To the north of the hall is a statue of the jovial Maitreya Buddha (the Buddha to come). The setting is highly picturesque and photogenic.
2Activities
Tamarind SpringsMassage
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %080 569 6654; www.tamarindsprings.com; off Rte 4169; spa packages from 1500B)
Tucked far away from the beach within a silent coconut-palm plantation, Tamarind’s small collection of villas and massage studios is seamlessly incorporated into nature: some have granite boulders built into walls and floors, while others offer private ponds or creative outdoor baths. There’s also a superhealthy restaurant and packages for three-night or longer stays in the elegant villas and suites.
Absolute SanctuaryYoga, Spa
(MAP; %077 601190; www.absolutesanctuary.com; Choeng Mon)
Detox, spa, yoga, Pilates, fasting, lifestyle and nutrition packages, in an alluring Moroccan-inspired setting.
Samui Institute of Thai Culinary ArtsCooking
(MAP GOOGLE MAP SITCA; %077 413172; www.sitca.com; Chaweng Beach Rd; courses 1850B)
For Thai cooking skills, SITCA is the place to do it, with daily Thai cooking classes and courses in the aristocratic Thai art of carving fruits and vegetables into intricate floral designs. Lunchtime classes begin at 11am, while dinner starts at 4pm (both are three-hour courses with three or more dishes).
Lamai Muay Thai CampHealth & Wellbeing
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %087 082 6970; www.lamaimuaythaicamp.com; 82/2 Moo3, Lamai; day/week training sessions 300/1500B; h7am-8pm)
The island’s best moo·ay tai (Thai boxing; also spelt muay Thai) training (for the seriously serious) is at this place, which caters to beginners as well as those wanting to hone their skills. There’s also a well-equipped gym for boxers and nonboxers who want to up their fitness levels, plus accommodation and breakfast (and all-meals-included) packages.
Ko Samui’s Best Viewpoints
View Top Stunning views over the jungle interior, sea and Ko Pha-Ngan.
Mae Nam Viewpoint Consider a hike to this viewpoint among the trees.
Lad Koh Viewpoint (off Rte 4169) Supreme views of the Gulf of Thailand.
Wat Khao Hua Jook (MAP GOOGLE MAP Chaweng; h8am-5pm) F Fine views from a golden pagoda.
5Eating
5Hat Chaweng
Dr FrogsSteak$$$
(MAP; %077 448505; www.drfrogssamui.com; Rte 4169; mains from 480B; h7am-11pm)
Perched atop a rocky overlook, Dr Frogs combines beautiful ocean vistas with delicious international Italian grills, seafood, pasta, pizza and Thai favourites. Delectable steaks and crab cakes, and friendly owners, make it a winner. It’s a romantic setting, and for harassed parents there’s a kids playground in the front garden. Live guitar music on Mondays and Wednesdays at 7.30pm.
LarderEuropean$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %077 601259; www.thelardersamui.com; Chaweng Beach Rd; mains 300-820B; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat; 
W)
This restaurant/bar/gastropub pulls out the stops in an invigorating menu of classic fare in a relaxing and tasteful setting, supported by a strong selection of wines and zesty cocktails. It’s a winning formula, with dishes ranging from slow-cooked lamb spare ribs to fish and chips.
5Hat Lamai
Hua Thanon MarketMarket$
(MAP; Ban Hua Thanon; dishes from 30B; h6am-6pm)
Slip into the rhythm of this village market slightly south of Lamai; it’s a window into the food ways of southern Thailand. Vendors shoo away the flies from the freshly butchered meat, and housewives load bundles of vegetables into their baby-filled motorcycle baskets. Follow the market road to the row of food shops delivering edible Muslim culture: chicken biryani, fiery curries or toasted rice with coconut, bean sprouts, lemon grass and dried shrimp.
BaobabFrench$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %084 838 3040; Hat Lamai; mains 150-380B; h8am-6pm)
Grab a free beach towel and crash out on a sun lounger after a full meal at breezy Baobab, or have a massage next door, but seize one of the beach tables (if you can). You’ll need two hands to turn over the hefty menu, with its all-day breakfasts, French/Thai dishes, grills, pastas and popular specials, including red tuna steak (350B).
5 North Coast
Bang Po SeafoodSeafood$$
(MAP; Bang Po; dishes from 100B; hdinner)
A meal at Bang Po Seafood is a test for the taste buds. It’s one of the only restaurants that serves traditional Ko Samui fare: recipes call for ingredients such as raw sea urchin roe, baby octopus, sea water, coconut and local turmeric.
BarracudaMediterranean$$$
(MAP; %077 430003; www.barracuda-restaurant.com; The Wharf, Fisherman’s Village; mains from 575B; h6-11pm)
Abounding in alluring Mediterranean culinary inflections, but only open come evening, Barracuda is one of the island’s best dining options. The romantic and seductive night-time environment is almost as delightful as the menu: expect to be charmed and well fed on a diet of seared scallops, yellowfin tuna, rack of lamb, Norwegian salmon, delectable pasta dishes and fine service.
Dining on the RocksFusion$$$
(MAP; %077 245678; www.sixsenses.com/resorts/samui/dining; Choeng Mon; set menus from 2800B; h5-10pm)
At the isolated Six Senses Samui, the island’s ultimate dining experience takes place on nine cantilevered verandahs yawning over the gulf. After sunset (and wine), guests feel like they’re dining on a barge set adrift on a starlit sea. Each dish on the set menu is the brainchild of cooks experimenting with taste, texture and temperature.
John’s Garden RestaurantThai$$
(MAP; %077 247694; www.johnsgardensamui.com; Mae Nam; mains from 160B; h1-10pm)
This delightful garden restaurant is a picture, with tables slung out beneath bamboo and palms and carefully cropped hedges. It’s particularly romantic when lantern-lit at night, so reserve ahead, but pack some mosquito repellent (which is generally provided, but it’s good to have backup). The signature dish on the Thai and European menu is the excellent massaman chicken.
5South Coast
Hemingway’s on the BeachThai$$
(MAP %088 452 4433; off Rte 4170, Ao Thong Krut; mains from 175B; h10am-8pm Sat, Mon, Tue & Thu, 10am-6pm Sun)
With appetising Thai dishes – and popular cookery courses too – this beachside choice on Rte 4170 as it loops into Thong Krut is an excellent reason to escape to the southwest corner of Ko Samui; tuck into fresh seafood and bask in the views, especially come sundown. Hemingway’s also arranges long-tail and speedboat island tours, while massage is at hand for post-meal relaxation.
Five IslandsSeafood$$$
(MAP; %077 423577; www.thefiveislandssamui.com; Taling Ngam; dishes 250-620B; h11.30am to late)
Five Islands offers a unique (yet pricey) eating experience. First, a long-tail boat (tours for two including meal 7500B to 9250B) will take you out into the turquoise sea to visit the haunting Five Sister Islands where you’ll learn about the ancient art of harvesting bird nests to make bird’s-nest soup, a Chinese delicacy. When you return a deluxe meal is waiting for you on the beach.
Where to Stay
The most famous beaches, Chaweng and Lamai, are crowded in the central area but calm on the periphery. Families opt for Choeng Mon, Bo Phut and Mae Nam.
Chaweng Beautiful beach, variety of accommodation; loud and crowded
Lamai Beautiful beach, variety of lodging; seedy bars
Choeng Mon Beautiful bay, kid-friendly; high-end lodging
Bo Phut & Fisherman’s Village Small, coarse-sand beach, atmospheric village; artsy midrange lodging
Mae Nam Pretty and quiet beach; backpacker and midrange lodging
6 Drinking & Nightlife
A recent ruling that all bars need to close by 1am means the island is quieter at night than it once was. Samui’s biggest party spot is brash and noisy Hat Chaweng. Lamai and Bo Phut come in second and third respectively, while the rest of the island is generally quiet, with drinking usually focused on resort bars. For sunset cocktails, hit the west coast, or parts of the north coast.
Coco Tam’sBar
(MAP; Fisherman’s Village; h1pm-1am)
Grab a swing at the bar or plop yourself on a beanbag on the sand, order a giant cocktail served in a jar and take a toke on a shisha (water pipe; 500B). It’s a bit pricey, but this boho, beach-bum-chic spot oozes relaxation, it’s lovely when the sun goes down and the coconut milkshakes are to die for. Fire dancers perform most nights.
Air BarBar
(MAP; www.samui.intercontinental.com; Intercontinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort, Taling Ngam; h5pm-midnight)
Toast the setting sun as it sinks into the golden gulf from this magnificent outside bar perched above a cliff at the swanky Intercontinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort. There’s an excellent menu of tapas and snacks if you simply can’t pull yourself away and want to make a meal of it. This is pretty much the top romantic choice on the island.
WoobarBar
(MAP; %077 915999; Bo Phut; h11am-midnight; W)
With serious wow factor and 270-degree panoramas, the W Retreat’s signature lobby bar gives the word ‘swish’ a whole new meaning, with cushion-clad pods of seating plonked in the middle of an expansive infinity pool that stretches out over the infinite horizon. This is, without doubt, the best place on Samui for sunset cocktails blended with cool music mixes.
Jungle ClubBar
(MAP; %081 894 2327; www.jungleclubsamui.com; h9am-9.30pm)
With knockout views from its high-altitude perch, you’ll want to head up and back sober if on a scooter as the approach is very steep, otherwise Jungle Club can arrange pick-up from Chaweng for 400B, or you can get a taxi for a similar fare.
Ark BarBar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %7am-1am; www.ark-bar.com; Hat Chaweng)
Drinks are dispensed from the multicoloured bar to an effusive crowd, guests recline on loungers on the beach, and the party is on day and night, with fire shows lighting up the sands after sundown and DJs providing house music from the afternoon onwards.
Nikki BeachBar
(MAP %077 914500; www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui; Lipa Noi; h11am-11pm; W)
The acclaimed luxury brand brings international flair to the secluded west coast of Ko Samui. Think haute cuisine, chic decor, gaggles of jet-setters and killer sunsets. Themed brunch and dinner specials keep the masses coming throughout the week, and sleek villa accommodation is also on offer.
Drink GalleryCocktail Bar
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %077-422767; www.thelibrary.co.th; Chaweng Beach Rd; h4pm-1am)
Part of the Library Hotel, this highly stylish bar has top design and some excellent cocktails. It’s a place to be seen in, and a place to people-watch from or just admire the interior artwork, while nibbling on tapas-style Thai bites.
8 Information
Always wear a helmet and drive carefully on a motorcycle; traffic fatalities are high.
Bangkok Hospital Samui (MAP GOOGLE MAP %077 429500, emergency 077 429555; www.bangkokhospital samui.com) Your best bet for just about any medical problem.
Tourist Police (MAP GOOGLE MAP %077 421281, emergency 1155) Based south of Na Thon.
8 Getting There & Away
Air
Samui International Airport (MAP GOOGLE MAP www.samui airportonline.com) is in the northeast of the island.
Boat
There are almost a dozen daily departures between Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan and many of these continue on to Ko Tao.
There are regular boat departures between Samui and Don Sak on the mainland. High-speed Lomprayah (%077 4277 656; www.lomprayah.com) departs from Na Thon; there’s also the slower but regular Raja (%022 768211-2, 092 274 3423-5; www.rajaferryport.com; adult 130B) car ferry, which departs from Thong Yang.
Ko Samui’s ‘Walking Street’ Night Markets
Ko Samui’s ‘Walking Streets’ are a fun dining experience. These food-filled markets occur at least once per week, offering you the chance to sample local delicacies, shop for gifts and mingle with tourists and locals. They start at around 4pm and run till around midnight.
This was the schedule at the time of research, but some are considering opening more frequently:
Ban Chaweng Monday to Thursday and Saturday
Ban Lamai Sunday
Ban Meanam Thursday
Bo Phut (Fisherman’s Village) Friday
Ban Choeng Mon Friday
8 Getting Around
You can hire motorcycles (and bicycles) on the island for 150B to 200B per day. Sŏrng·tăa·ou (pick-up trucks) run regular routes around the island during daylight hours. It’s about 50B to travel between beaches. These vehicles can also be chartered for private transport. Taxis have high but standardised prices.