Sukhothai
Sukhothai Historical Park
Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park
Sights
Activities
Eating
Information
Sukhothai at a Glance…
Sukhothai is widely regarded as the first capital of Siam. After breaking away from the Khmer kingdom in 1238, the newly founded state established itself as a regional power and a cultural leader. Beautiful temples mixing Khmer and unique Sukhothai styles were built to honour the newly adopted Theravada Buddhism and the new dynasty. Today the old city is sheltered in a quiet park-like setting that creates a meditative calm, perfect for enjoying the gravity of the majestic monuments. Sukhothai never feels crowded but there are off-the-beaten-path corners such as Si Satchanalai-Chaliang, where you can be a solo adventurer.
Sukhothai in Two Days
Explore Sukhothai Historical Park. The central and northern zones are easily visited by bicycle. The next day hire a motorcycle to explore the western and southern zones.
Sukhothai in Four Days
Spend day three at Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park. On your last day sign up for a cycling tour of Sukhothai for a guided adventure to unexplored corners of the park and environs.
Arriving in Sukhothai
Sukhothai Airport Most visitors arrive by bus from Bangkok though Sukhothai does have an airport (located 27km north) and there’s another in nearby Phitsanulok. Minivan services link both airports to accommodation in Sukhothai.
Bus station Located 1km northwest of New Sukhothai; motorcycle taxis do the run between here and central New Sukhothai, or you can hop on any sŏrng·tăa·ou (pick-up minibus) bound for Sukhothai Historical Park.
Sleeping
Most accommodation is in New Sukhothai, which is home to some of the best-value budget accommodation in northern Thailand. Clean, cheerful hotels and guesthouses abound, with many places offering attractive bungalows, free pick-up from the bus station and free use of bicycles. There are an increasing number of options near the park, many of them in the upscale bracket.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Sukhothai Historical Park
Crumbling temple ruins and serene Buddha statues provide a meditative journey through this ancient Thai capital, designated a Unesco World Heritage Site. The central leafy compound is one of the country’s most impressive and peaceful historical parks.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Hiring a bicycle and cycling around the ruins is the best way to explore the central zone.
8 Need to Know
On Saturday night much of the central zone is illuminated and remains open until 9pm.
5 Take a Break
Coffee Cup (MAP GOOGLE MAP Rte 12; dishes 30-150B; 
h8am-10pm; 
W) serves fresh breads, drinks and other cafe fare.
oTop Tip
The soft light and cooler temperatures of evening make it a perfect time to visit the central zone.
The Sukhothai kingdom (‘Sukhothai’ means ‘rising happiness’) flourished from the mid-13th century to the late 14th century, as the imperial Angkor kingdom in Cambodia was losing its grip on its western frontier. This period is often viewed as the golden age of Thai civilisation. Sukhothai’s dynasty lasted 200 years and spanned nine kings. By 1438 Sukhothai was absorbed by Ayuthaya.
Central Zone
The pockmarked ruins of the kingdom, believed to be the administrative centre, are concentrated in the central zone ( อุทยานประวัติศาสตร์สุโขทัย โซนกลาง ; 100B, plus per bicycle/motorcycle/car 10/20/50B; h6.30am-6pm Sun-Fri, to 9pm Sat), in an area known as meuang·gòw (old city), a 45-sq-km compound.
Ramkhamhaeng National Museum
A good starting point for exploring the historical park is this museum (MAP GOOGLE MAP พิพิธภัณฑสถานแห่งชาติรามคำแหง; 150B; h9am-4pm), named for the third Sukhothai king. King Ramkhamhaeng is considered to be the founding father of the nation. He is credited with creating the Thai script and establishing Theravada Buddhism as the kingdom’s primary religion. A replica of the famous Ramkhamhaeng inscription, said to be the earliest example of Thai writing, is kept here among an impressive collection of Sukhothai artefacts.
Religious art and architecture of the era are considered to be the most classic of Thai styles, influenced by the preceding Khmer period but adapted with graceful elements found in the features and gestures of the Buddha sculptures of the time. Other hallmarks are the shape of the chedi (stupa) and stucco relief work. The temple ruins of the historic park are viewed by historians as a transition between Khmer and Thai art.
Admission to the museum is not included in the ticket to the central zone.
Wat Mahathat
The largest temple in the historic park, Wat Mahathat (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดมหาธาตุ) was completed in the 13th century and is considered to be the former spiritual and administrative centre of the old capital. It is a hybrid of Khmer and Sukhothai artistic styles. The temple is surrounded by brick walls (206m long and 200m wide) and a moat that is believed to represent the outer wall of the universe and the cosmic ocean, a common theme in Khmer architecture. Multiple chedi feature the famous lotus-bud motif, considered a distinctive Sukhothai artistic feature adapted from the Sri Lankan bell-shaped chedi. Some of the original stately Buddha figures still sit among the ruined columns of the old wí·hăhn (sanctuary). There are 198 chedi within the monastery walls and many photogenic specimens.
Wat Si Sawai
Just south of Wat Mahathat, this Buddhist shrine (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดศีรสวาย) dating from the 12th and 13th centuries features three Khmer-style towers and a picturesque moat. It was originally built by the Khmers as a Hindu temple. Sukhothai craftspeople added stucco reliefs depicting mythical creatures, such as apsara (heavenly maidens) and naga (serpents).
Wat Sa Si
Wat Sa Si (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดสระศรี, Sacred Pond Monastery) sits on an island west of the bronze monument of King Ramkhamhaeng. It’s a simple, classic Sukhothai-style wát containing a large Buddha, one bell-shaped chedi and the columns of the ruined wí·hăhn. Bell-shaped chedi, an artistic inheritance from Sri Lanka, migrated to Sukhothai thanks to the adoption of Buddhism.
Wat Trapang Thong
Next to the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum, this small, still-inhabited wát (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดตระพังทอง; off Rte 12; hdaylight hours) with fine stucco reliefs is reached by a footbridge across the large lotus-filled pond that surrounds it. This reservoir, the original site of Thailand’s Loi Krathong festival, supplies the Sukhothai community with most of its water.
Northern Zone
The northern zone (อุทยานประวัติศาสตร์สุโขทัย โซนเหนือ; 100B, plus per bicycle/motor-cycle/car 10/20/50B; h7.30am-5.30pm) is 500m north of the old city walls and is easily reached by bicycle. It rivals the central zone with important architectural ruins.
Wat Si Chum
Beloved by shutterbugs, this temple (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดศรีชุม) is northwest of the old city and contains an impressive mon·dòp (a chedi-like spire) with a 15m, brick-and-stucco seated Buddha. The Buddha’s elegant, tapered fingers are much photographed and larger than life. Archaeologists theorise that this image is the ‘Phra Atchana’ mentioned in the famous Ramkhamhaeng inscription. A passage in the mon·dòp wall that leads to the top has been blocked so that it’s no longer possible to view the Jataka inscriptions that line the tunnel ceiling.
o Did You Know?
The park includes the remains of 21 historical sites and four large ponds within the old walls, with an additional 70 sites within a 5km radius.
Wat Phra Phai Luang
Often viewed as an architectural companion to Wat Si Sawai in the central zone, this somewhat isolated temple (MAP GOOGLE MAP วัดพระพายหลวง) featured three 12th-century Khmer-style towers. All but one tower has collapsed and the remaining structure is decorated with time-worn stucco relief indicative of Sukhothai style. This may have been the centre of Sukhothai when it was ruled by the Khmers of Angkor prior to the 13th century.
Western Zone
The western zone (อุทยานประวัติศาสตร์สุโขทัย โซนตะวันตก; 100B, plus per bicycle/motorcycle/car 10/20/50B; h8am-4.30pm) is about 2km from the old city and is rarely crowded. The road here leads past scenic countryside.
Wat Saphan Hin
The name of this wát (วัดสะพานหิน), located on the crest of a hill that rises about 200m above the plain, means ‘stone bridge’, a reference to the slate path and staircase that lead up to the temple and are still in place. All that remains of the original temple are a few chedi and the ruined wí·hăhn, consisting of two rows of laterite columns flanking a 12.5m-high standing Buddha image on a brick terrace. The site is 3km west of the former city wall and gives a good view of the Sukhothai ruins to the southeast and the mountains to the north and south.
oDid You Know?
The establishment of Sukhothai in 1238 is often described as the first Thai kingdom; however, the kingdom of Chiang Saen had already been established 500 years earlier, so this is technically incorrect.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Historical Park
Picturesque countryside and forests frame the ruins of this satellite city of the Sukhothai kingdom, dating to the 13th to 15th centuries. You’re likely to encounter fewer visitors here.
Great For…
y Don’t Miss
Climbing the stairs to the hilltop temple of Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng is a sightseeing workout.
8 Need to Know
อุทยานประวัติศาสตร์ศรีสัชนาลัย-เชลียง; off Rte 101; 100B; h8.30am-4.30pm
5 Take a Break
Roadside vendors line the main road and sell simple meals and drinks.
oTop Tip
Be sure to stock up on water because the sites are far flung without the usual conveniences between.
As Sukhothai’s influence grew, it expanded to this strategic position on the banks of the Mae Nam Yom between two lookout hills. Si Satchanalai hosted many of the Sukhothai kingdom’s monasteries and temples as well as ceramics factories that exported to neighbouring countries. After the fall of Sukhothai, this area continued to be used by the rival forces of Lanna and Ayuthaya. Si Satchanalai, along with Sukhothai, was recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site. The park covers roughly 720 hectares and is surrounded by a 12m-wide moat.
Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat
Si Satchanalai’s main attraction, Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat (วัดพระศรีรัตนมหาธาตุ; 20B) sits outside the entrance to the historical park on the banks of Mae Nam Yom. The impressive central tower poses peacefully among the surrounding greenery and is framed by a large seated Sukhothai Buddha and pillars. Nearby is a smaller standing image and a bas-relief of the famous walking Buddha, exemplary of the flowing, boneless Sukhothai style. The tower is a corn-cob shape, suggestive of Khmer style, but it is actually an Ayuthaya style because it has a smooth curvature rather than the Khmer ‘steps’. Near the main entrance, look for a pillar topped by a Khmer-style four-faced figure, evocative of temples in Angkor. The figure depicts the Hindu god Brahma.
Wat Chang Lom
This fine temple (วัดช้างล้อม; 100B), marking the centre of the old city of Si Satchanalai, is encircled by elephant statues and a towering bell-shaped chedi that is somewhat better preserved than its counterpart in Sukhothai. The elephants’ entire bodies are intact giving the visual appearance of the structure being carried on the backs of the elephants. In Buddhist iconography, elephants are often regarded as guardians and were a common motif in Sukhothai temples. An inscription states that the temple was built by King Ramkhamhaeng between 1285 and 1291.
Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng
On the hill overlooking Wat Chang Lom are the remains of Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng (วัดเขาพนมเพลิง; 100B), meaning Holy Fire Mountain Temple. The forest closes in among a chedi, a large seated Buddha and stone columns that once supported the roof of the wí·hăhn. From here you can make out the general design of the once great city. It is a sweaty walk up the 44 steps made of laterite blocks to the top, but the surrounding forest adds a mystique of adventure. A small shrine to a local goddess receives supplications of dresses from devotees. The hilltop is also a nesting site for waterbirds, including egrets and cranes; locals often carry umbrellas to protect themselves from bird droppings.
Wat Chedi Jet Thaew
A strong contender for Si Satchanalai’s best, Wat Chedi Jet Thaew (วัดเจดีย์เจ็ดแถว; 100B), next to Wat Chang Lom, is so named because of its seven rows of chedi, the largest of which is a copy of one at Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai. An interesting brick-and-plaster wí·hăhn features barred windows designed to look like lathed wood (an ancient Indian technique used all over Southeast Asia). The temple dates back to the 14th century and contains a mix of styles: Khmer, Lanna and Sukhothai.
Wat Nang Phaya
One of the youngest temples in the collection, Wat Nang Phaya (วัดนางพญา; 100B), south of Wat Chedi Jet Thaew, has a bell-shaped Sinhalese chedi and was built in the 15th or 16th century. Stucco reliefs on the large laterite wí·hăhn in front of the chedi – now sheltered by a tin roof – date from the Ayuthaya period when Si Satchanalai was known as Sawankhalok. Goldsmiths in the district still craft a design known as nahng pá·yah, modelled after these reliefs.
Wat Chao Chan
Sheltered by woods, Wat Chao Chan (วัดเจ้าจันทร์; 100B, combined entry with Si Satchanalai & Si Satchanalai Centre for Study & Preservation of Sangkalok Kilns 250B; h8am-5pm) is a large Khmer-style tower similar to later towers built in Lopburi and probably constructed during the reign of Khmer king Jayavarman VII (1181–1217). The tower has been restored and is in fairly good shape. The roofless wí·hăhn on the right contains the laterite outlines of a large standing Buddha that has all but melted away from exposure and weathering.
Si Satchanalai Centre for Study & Preservation of Sangkalok Kilns
At one time, more than 200 huge pottery kilns lined the banks of the Mae Nam Yom in the area around Si Satchanalai. The kilns produced glazed ceramics that were exported to other Asian countries. In China – the biggest importer of Thai pottery during the Sukhothai and Ayuthaya periods – the pieces produced here came to be called Sangkalok, a mispronunciation of Sawankhalok, the original name of the region.
Excavated kilns can be visited at the Si Satchanalai Centre for Study & Preservation of Sangkalok Kilns (ศูนย์ศึกษาและอนุรักษ์เตาสังคโลก; 100B, combined ticket with Si Satchanalai & Wat Chao Chan 250B; h8am-4.30pm), located 5km northwest of the Si Satchanalai ruins. There are also many intact pottery samples and interesting displays despite the lack of English labels. Ceramics are still made in the area, and a local ceramic artist even continues to fire his pieces in an underground wood-burning oven.
o Did You Know?
Wat Phra Si Ratana Mahathat is one of the largest, oldest and most historically important in the park and received the status of royal property after a visit by the previous king.
yDon’t Miss
When visiting the park, make sure to check out the excavated kilns along Mae Nam Yom.
New Sukhothai
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
Sights
Sangkhalok MuseumMuseum
(พิพิธภัณฑ์สังคโลก; Rte 1293; adult/child 100/50B; h8am-5pm)
This small but comprehensive museum is an excellent introduction to ancient Sukhothai’s most famous product and export, its ceramics. The ground floor displays an impressive collection of original Thai pottery found in the area, plus some pieces traded from Vietnam, Myanmar and China. The 2nd floor features examples of non-utilitarian pottery made as art, including some beautiful and rare ceramic Buddha statues. The museum is about 2.5km east of the centre of New Sukhothai; a tuúk-tuúk here is about 100B.
Wat ChetuponHistoric Site
(วัดเชตุพน; off Rte 1272, Southern Zone, Sukhothai Historical Park; h24hr) 
F
Located 1.4km south of the old city walls, this temple once held a four-sided mon·dòp (a chedi-like spire) featuring the four classic poses of the Buddha (sitting, reclining, standing and walking). The graceful lines of the walking Buddha can still be made out today.
Wat Chedi Si HongHistoric Site
(วัดเจดีย์สี่ห้อง; off Rte 1272, Southern Zone, Sukhothai Historical Park; h24hr) F
Directly across from Wat Chetupon, the main chedi here has retained much of its original stucco relief work, which shows still vivid depictions of elephants, lions and humans.
2Activities
Organic Agriculture ProjectCooking
(
%055 647290; off Rte 1195; half-day incl lunch 900B; h8am-5pm Thu-Tue)
Sukhothai’s Organic Agriculture Project allows visitors to take part in traditional Thai farm activities.
Taking place at Sukhothai Airport’s organic farm, the half-day begins by donning the outfit of a Thai rice farmer and riding an ee đǎan (a traditional utility vehicle) to gather duck eggs. This is followed by riding a buffalo, checking into an orchid farm, witnessing the stages of rice production and, ultimately, planting or gathering rice. The session ends with an informal cooking lesson and meal using organic produce from the farm. Book in advance for an English-speaking guide.
The compound is also home to a restaurant serving dishes made from the farm’s organic produce (mains 50B to 120B, open 8am to 5pm Thursday to Tuesday).
The project is located on the same road as Sukhothai’s airport, 27km from New Sukhothai off Rte 1195, and is not accessible by public transport. If you don’t have your own wheels, you can arrange a ride with the Sukhothai Airport’s minivan service.
Cycling SukhothaiCycling
(MAP GOOGLE MAP %085 083 1864, 055 612519; www.cycling-sukhothai.com; off Th Jarodvithithong; half/full day 800/990B, sunset tour 450B)
A resident of Sukhothai for nearly 20 years, Belgian cycling enthusiast Ronny Hanquart offers themed bike tours, such as the Historical Park Tour, which also includes stops at lesser-seen wát and villages.
The office is about 1.2km west of Mae Nam Yom, off Th Jarodvithithong in New Sukhothai; free transport can be arranged.
Sukhothai Bicycle TourCycling
(%086 931 6242; www.sukhothaibicycletour.com; 34/1 Th Jarodvithithong; half day 750B, full day 1050-1150B)
A bicycle-based tour outfit that gets overwhelmingly positive feedback.
Sukhothai-Style Noodles
Sukhothai’s signature dish is gŏo·ay đĕe·o sù·kŏh·tai (Sukhothai-style noodles), featuring a slightly sweet broth with different preparations of pork, ground peanuts and thinly sliced green beans. The best places to try the dish:
Jayhae (MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Jarodvithithong; dishes 30-120B; h8am-4pm) You haven’t been to Sukhothai if you haven’t tried the noodles at Jayhae, an extremely popular restaurant that serves Sukhothai-style noodles, pàt tai and tasty coffee drinks. Located about 1.3km west of Mae Nam Yom, off Th Jarodvithithong.
Tapui (MAP GOOGLE MAP off Th Jarodvithithong; dishes 30-50B; h7am-3pm) Consisting of little more than a brick floor with a tin roof over it, Tapui claims to be the first shop in Sukhothai to have sold the city’s namesake dish. Located about 1.3km west of Mae Nam Yom, off Th Jarodvithithong; there’s no roman-script sign.
Eating
Dream CaféThai$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 86/1 Th Singhawat; mains 120-350B; h5-11pm; av)
A meal at Dream Café is like dining in an antique shop. Eclectic but tasteful furnishings abound, staff members are competent and friendly and, most importantly of all, the food is good. Try one of the well-executed yam (Thai-style ‘salads’).
Night MarketMarket$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP Th Ramkhamhaeng; mains 30-60B; h6-11pm)
A wise choice for cheap eats is New Sukhothai’s tiny night market. Most vendors here are accustomed to accommodating foreigners and even provide bilingual menus.
Fueang FahThai$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP 107/2 Th Khuhasuwan; dishes 50-350B; h10am-10pm)
Pretend you’re a local in the know and head to this long-standing riverside restaurant. The speciality is freshwater fish dishes, such as the tasty ‘fried fish’, the first item on the barely comprehensible English-language menu. There’s no Roman-script sign; it’s just after the bridge on Th Khuhasuwan.
8Information
Sukhothai Hospital (MAP GOOGLE MAP %055 610280; Th Jarodvithithong) Located just west of New Sukhothai.
Tourism Authority of Thailand (MAP GOOGLE MAP TAT; %055 6162 28, nationwide 1672; www.tourismthailand.org; Th Jarodvithithong; h8.30am-4.30pm) About 750m west of the bridge in New Sukhothai, this office has a good selection of maps and brochures.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Sukhothai’s airport is a whopping 27km north of town off Rte 1195. There is a minivan service (
%055 647220; Sukhothai Airport; h7am-7pm) between the airport and New Sukhothai or Sukhothai Historical Park. Alternatively, Air Asia and Nok Air offer minivan transfers to/from both old and new Sukhothai via the airport in Phitsanulok, less than an hour away.
Bus
Sukhothai’s minivan and bus station (MAP GOOGLE MAP %055 614529; Rte 101) is almost 1km northwest of the centre of New Sukhothai; a motorcycle taxi between here and central New Sukhothai should cost around 50B, or you can hop on any sŏrng·tăa·ou (pick-up minibus) bound for Sukhothai Historical Park – they stop at the bus station on their way out of town between 6am and 5.30pm.
8Getting Around
Frequent sŏrng·tăa·ou run between New Sukhothai and Sukhothai Historical Park from 6am to 6pm, leaving from a stop on Th Jarodvithithong. The best way to get around the historical park is by bicycle, which can be rented at shops outside the park entrance for 30B per day. Motorbike rental starts at about 250B per day.