Survival Guide
Directory A–Z
Accommodation
Climate
Customs Regulations
Electricity
Food
Health
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
LGBTIQ Travellers
Money
Opening Hours
Photography
Public Holidays
Safe Travel
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Travellers with Disabilities
Visas
Women Travellers
TRANSPORT
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Directory A–Z
iAccommodation
Thailand offers a wide variety of accommodation, from cheap and basic to pricey and luxurious. In places where spoken English might be limited, it is handy to know the following: hôrng pát lom (room with fan) and hôrng aa (room with air-con).
Book Your Stay Online
For accommodation reviews by Lonely Planet writers, check out http://hotels.lonelyplanet.com/ Thailand. You’ll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all, you can book online.
Climate
ECustoms Regulations
You do not have to fill in a customs form on arrival unless you have imported goods to declare. In that case you can get the proper form from Thai customs officials at your point of entry. The Customs Department (
% 02 667 6000; www.customs.go.th) maintains a helpful website with specific information about regulations for travellers.
Thailand allows the following items to enter duty-free:
oreasonable amount of personal effects (clothing and toiletries)
oprofessional instruments
o200 cigarettes
o1L of wine or spirits
Thailand prohibits the import of the following items:
ofirearms and ammunition (unless registered in advance with the police department)
oillegal drugs
opornographic media
When leaving Thailand, you must obtain an export licence for any antique reproductions or newly cast Buddha images. Submit two front-view photos of the object(s), a photocopy of your passport, the purchase receipt and the object(s) in question to the Office of the National Museum (%02 224 1370; National Museum, 4 Th Na Phra That, Bangkok; 
h9am-4pm Tue-Fri; 
fChang Pier, Maharaj Pier, Phra Chan Tai Pier). Allow four days for the application and inspection process to be completed.
R
Electricity
Thailand uses 220V AC electricity. Power outlets most commonly feature two-prong round or flat sockets.
kFood
The following price ranges indicate how much you should expect to pay for a main dish in Thailand.
$ less than 150B
$$ 150–350B
$$$ more than 350B
FHealth
Health risks and the quality of medical facilities vary depending on where and how you travel in Thailand. The majority of cities and popular tourist areas have adequate, and even excellent, medical care. However, travel to remote rural areas can expose you to some health risks and less adequate medical care.
Travellers tend to worry about contracting exotic infectious diseases when visiting the tropics, but these are far less common than problems with pre-existing medical conditions, such as heart disease, and accidental injury (especially as a result of traffic accidents).
Other common illnesses are respiratory infections, diarrhoea and dengue fever. Fortunately most common illnesses can be prevented or are easily treated.
Our advice is a general guide and does not replace the advice of a doctor trained in travel medicine.
Before You Go
Pack medications in clearly labelled original containers and obtain a signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions, medications and syringes or needles. If you have a heart condition, bring a copy of your electrocardiogram (ECG) taken just prior to travelling.
If you take any regular medication bring double your needs in case of loss or theft. In Thailand you can buy many medications over the counter without a doctor’s prescription, but it can be difficult to find the exact medication you are taking.
Contact your home country’s Department of Foreign Affairs or the equivalent and register your trip; this is a helpful precaution in the event of a natural disaster
Insurance
Don’t travel without health insurance – accidents do happen. You may require extra cover for adventure activities such as rock climbing or diving, as well as scooter or motorcycle riding. If your home health insurance doesn’t cover you for medical expenses abroad, ensure you get specific travel insurance.
Most hospitals require an upfront guarantee of payment (from yourself or your insurer) prior to admission. Enquire before your trip about payment of medical charges and retain all documentation (medical reports, invoices etc) for claim purposes.
Medical Checklist
Recommended items for a personal medical kit include the following, most of which are available in Thailand.
oantifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole
oantibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin
oantibiotic for skin infections, eg Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin
oantibiotics for diarrhoea include Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin for bacterial diarrhoea; for giardiasis or amoebic dysentery, take Tinidazole
oantihistamine – there are many options, eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethazine for night-time
oantiseptic, eg Betadine
oantispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg Buscopan
ocontraceptives
odecongestant
oDEET-based insect repellent
ooral rehydration solution for diarrhoea (eg Gastrolyte), diarrhoea ‘stopper’ (eg Loperamide) and antinausea medication
ofirst-aid items such as scissors, Elastoplasts, bandages, gauze, thermometer (but not one with mercury), sterile needles and syringes (with a doctor’s letter), safety pins and tweezers
oalcohol-based hand gel or wipes
oibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory
oindigestion medication, eg Quick-Eze or Mylanta
olaxative, eg Coloxyl
omigraine medicine – for migraine sufferers
oparacetamol
opermethrin to impregnate clothing and mosquito nets if at high risk
osteroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg 1% to 2% hydrocortisone
osunscreen, sunglasses and hat
othroat lozenges
othrush (vaginal yeast infection) treatment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflucan tablet
oUral or equivalent if prone to urinary-tract infections
Recommended Vaccines
Arrange your vaccines six to eight weeks prior to departure through a specialised travel-medicine clinic.
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (www.cdc.gov) has a traveller’s health section that contains recommendations for vaccinations. The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. Proof of vaccination will only be required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior to entering Thailand. If you are travelling to Thailand from Africa or South America you should check to see if you require proof of vaccination.
In Transit
Deep-vein thrombosis (DVT) occurs when blood clots form in the legs during long trips chiefly because of prolonged immobility. Though most blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully, some may break off and travel through the blood vessels to the lungs, where they can cause life-threatening complications.
The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but not always on one side. When a blood clot travels to the lungs, it may cause chest pain and difficulty in breathing. Travellers with any of these symptoms should immediately seek medical attention.
To prevent the development of DVT on long flights, you should walk about the cabin periodically, and drink plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic).
Jet lag is common when crossing more than five time zones. It results in insomnia, fatigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag, drink plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic) and eat light meals. Upon arrival, seek exposure to natural sunlight and readjust your sleep schedule. Some people find melatonin helpful to relieve symptoms.
In Thailand
Infectious Diseases
Cuaneous Larva Migrans
This disease, caused by dog or cat hookworm, is particularly common on the beaches of Thailand. The rash starts as a small lump, and then slowly spreads like a winding line. It is intensely itchy, especially at night. It is easily treated with medications and should not be cut out or frozen.
Dengue Fever
This mosquito-borne disease is increasingly problematic in Thailand, especially in the cities. As there is no vaccine, it can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito bites. The mosquito that carries dengue is a daytime biter, so use insect-avoidance measures at all times. Symptoms include high fever, severe headache (especially behind the eyes), nausea and body aches (dengue was previously known as ‘breakbone fever’). Some people develop a rash (which can be very itchy) and experience diarrhoea.
There is no specific treatment, just rest and paracetamol – do not take aspirin or ibuprofen as they increase the risk of haemorrhaging. See a doctor to be diagnosed and monitored.
Dengue can progress to the more severe and life-threatening dengue haemorrhagic fever, but this is very uncommon in tourists. The risk of this increases substantially if you have previously been infected with dengue and are then infected with a different serotype.
Hepatitis A
The risk of hepatitis A in Bangkok is decreasing, but there is still significant risk in most of the country. This food- and waterborne virus infects the liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin and eyes), nausea and lethargy. There is no specific treatment for hepatitis A. All travellers to Thailand should be vaccinated against hepatitis A.
Hepatitis B
The only sexually transmitted disease (STD) that can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis B is spread by body fluids, including sexual contact. In some parts of Thailand up to 20% of the population are carriers of hepatitis B, and usually are unaware of this. The long-term consequences can include liver cancer, cirrhosis and death.
HIV
HIV is now one of the most common causes of death in people under the age of 50 in Thailand. Always practice safe sex, and avoid getting tattoos or using unclean syringes.
Influenza
Present year-round in the tropics, influenza (flu) symptoms include high fever, muscle aches, runny nose, cough and sore throat. Flu is the most common vaccine-preventable disease contracted by travellers and everyone should consider vaccination. There is no specific treatment, just rest and paracetamol. Complications such as bronchitis or middle-ear infection may require antibiotic treatment.
Leptospirosis
Leptospirosis is contracted from exposure to infected surface water – most commonly after river rafting or canyoning. Early symptoms are very similar to flu and include headache and fever. It can vary from a very mild ailment to a fatal disease. Diagnosis is made through blood tests and it is easily treated with Doxycycline.
Malaria
There is an enormous amount of misinformation concerning malaria. Malaria is caused by a parasite transmitted by the bite of an infected mosquito. The most important symptom of malaria is fever, but general symptoms such as headache, diarrhoea, cough or chills may also occur – the same symptoms as many other infections. A diagnosis can only be made by taking a blood sample.
Most parts of Thailand visited by tourists, particularly city and resort areas, have minimal to no risk of malaria, and the risk of side effects from taking antimalarial tablets is likely to outweigh the risk of getting the disease itself. If you are travelling to high-risk rural
areas (unlikely for most visitors), seek medical advice on the right medication and dosage for you.
Measles
This highly contagious viral infection is spread through coughing and sneezing and remains prevalent in Thailand. Measles starts with a high fever and rash and can be complicated by pneumonia and brain disease. There is no specific treatment. Ensure you are fully vaccinated.
Rabies
This disease, fatal if left untreated, is spread by the bite or lick of an infected animal – most commonly a dog or monkey. You should seek medical advice immediately after any animal bite and commence post-exposure treatment. Having a pretravel vaccination means the postbite treatment is greatly simplified.
STDs
Sexually transmitted diseases most common in Thailand include herpes, warts, syphilis, gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People carrying these diseases often have no signs of infection. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea and chlamydia, but not warts or herpes. If after a sexual encounter you develop any rash, lumps, discharge or pain when passing urine, seek immediate medical attention. If you have been sexually active during your travels, have an STD check on your return home.
Rare But Be Aware
oAvian Influenza Most of those infected have had close contact with sick or dead birds.
oFilariasis A mosquito-borne disease that is common in the local population; practice mosquito-avoidance measures.
oHepatitis E Transmitted through contaminated food and water and has similar symptoms to hepatitis A. Can be a severe problem in pregnant women. Follow safe eating and drinking guidelines.
oJapanese B Encephalitis Viral disease transmitted by mosquitoes, typically occurring in rural areas. Vaccination is recommended for travellers spending more than one month outside cities, or for long-term expats.
oMeliodosis Contracted by skin contact with soil. Affects up to 30% of the local population in northeastern Thailand. The symptoms are very similar to those experienced by tuberculosis (TB) sufferers. There is no vaccine, but it can be treated with medications.
oStrongyloides A parasite transmitted by skin contact with soil; common in the local population. It is characterised by an unusual skin rash – a linear rash on the trunk that comes and goes. An overwhelming infection can follow. It can be treated with medications.
oTuberculosis Medical and aid workers and long-term travellers who have significant contact with the local population should take precautions. Vaccination is recommended for children spending more than three months in Thailand. The main symptoms are fever, cough, weight loss, night sweats and tiredness. Treatment is available with long-term multidrug regimens.
oTyphus Murine typhus is spread by the bite of a flea; scrub typhus is spread via a mite. Symptoms include fever, muscle pains and a rash. Follow general insect-avoidance measures; Doxycycline will also prevent it.
Typhoid
This serious bacterial infection is spread through food and water. It gives a high and slowly progressive fever, severe headache and may be accompanied by a dry cough and stomach pain. It is diagnosed by blood tests and treated with antibiotics. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers spending more than a week in Thailand, or travelling outside of the major cities. Be aware that vaccination is not 100% effective, so you must still be careful with what you eat and drink.
Traveller’s Diarrhoea
Traveller’s diarrhoea is by far the most common problem affecting travellers. In over 80% of cases, traveller’s diarrhoea is caused by a bacteria (there are numerous potential culprits) and responds promptly to treatment with antibiotics.
Here we define traveller’s diarrhoea as the passage of more than three watery bowel movements within 24 hours, plus at least one other symptom such as vomiting, fever, cramps, nausea or feeling generally unwell.
Treatment consists of staying well hydrated; rehydration solutions such as Gastrolyte are the best for this. Antibiotics such as Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin or Azithromycin will kill the bacteria quickly. Seek medical attention if you do not respond to an appropriate antibiotic.
Loperamide is just a ‘stopper’ that only treats the symptoms. It can be helpful, for example, if you have to go on a long bus ride. Don’t take Loperamide if you have a fever, or blood in your stools.
Giardia lamblia is a parasite that is relatively common. Symptoms include nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue and intermittent diarrhoea. ‘Eggy’ burps are often attributed solely to giardiasis. The treatment of choice is Tinidazole, with Metronidazole being a second-line option.
Amoebic dysentery is very rare in travellers, but may be misdiagnosed by poor-quality labs. Symptoms are similar to bacterial diarrhoea. You should always seek reliable medical care if you have blood in your diarrhoea. Treatment involves two drugs: Tinidazole or Metronidazole to kill the parasite in your gut and then a second drug to kill the cysts. If left untreated complications, such as liver abscesses, can occur.
Environmental Hazards
Jellyfish Stings
Box jellyfish stings are extremely painful and can even be fatal. There are two main types of box jellyfish – multi-tentacled and single-tentacled.
Multi-tentacled box jellyfish are present in Thai waters – these are the most dangerous and a severe envenomation can kill an adult within two minutes. They are generally found along sandy beaches near river mouths and mangroves during the warmer months.
There are many types of single-tentacled box jellyfish, some of which can cause severe symptoms known as the Irukandji syndrome. The initial sting can seem minor; however severe symptoms such as back pain, nausea, vomiting, sweating, difficulty breathing and a feeling of impending doom can develop between five and 40 minutes later.
There are many other jellyfish in Thailand that cause irritating stings but no serious effects. The only way to prevent these stings is to wear protective clothing.
Heat
For most people it takes at least two weeks to adapt to the hot climate. Prevent swelling of the feet and ankles as well as muscle cramps caused by excessive sweating by avoiding dehydration and excessive activity in the heat of the day.
Heatstroke requires immediate medical treatment. Symptoms come on suddenly and include weakness, nausea, a hot dry body with a body temperature of more than 41°C, dizziness, confusion, loss of coordination, fits and eventually collapse and loss of consciousness.
Insect Bites & Stings
oBedbugs live in the cracks of furniture and walls and then migrate to the bed at night to feed on humans. You can treat the itch with an antihistamine.
oTicks are contracted when walking in rural areas. They are commonly found behind the ears, on the belly and in armpits. If you’ve been bitten by a tick and a rash develops at the site of the bite or elsewhere, along with fever or muscle aches, see a doctor. Doxycycline prevents tick-borne diseases.
oLeeches are found in humid rainforests. They do not transmit disease, but their bites are often itchy for weeks afterwards and can easily become infected. Apply an iodine-based antiseptic to the bite to help prevent infection.
oBee and wasp stings mainly cause problems for people who are allergic to them. Anyone with a serious allergy should carry an injection of adrenalin (eg an EpiPen) for emergencies. For others, pain is the main problem – apply ice to the sting and take painkillers.
Avoiding Mosquito Bites
Travellers are advised to prevent mosquito bites by taking these steps:
oUse a DEET-containing insect repellent on exposed skin.
oSleep under a mosquito net, ideally impregnated with permethrin.
oChoose accommodation with screens and fans.
oImpregnate clothing with permethrin in high-risk areas.
oWear long sleeves and trousers in light colours.
oUse mosquito coils.
oSpray room with insect repellent before going out.
Parasites
Numerous parasites are common in local populations in Thailand, but most of these are rare in travellers. To avoid parasitic infections, wear shoes and avoid eating raw food, especially fish, pork and vegetables.
Skin Problems
Prickly heat is a common skin rash in the tropics, caused by sweat being trapped under the skin. Treat by taking cool showers and using powders.
Two fungal rashes commonly affect travellers. The first occurs in the groin, armpits and between the toes. It starts as a red patch that slowly spreads and is usually itchy. Treatment involves keeping the skin dry, avoiding chafing and using an antifungal cream such as Clotrimazole or Lamisil. The fungus Tinea versicolor causes small and light-coloured patches, most commonly on the back, chest and shoulders. Consult a doctor.
Cuts and scratches become easily infected in humid climates. Immediately wash all wounds in clean water and apply antiseptic. If you develop signs of infection, see a doctor. Coral cuts can easily become infected.
Snakes
Though snake bites are rare for travellers, there are more than 85 species of venomous snakes in Thailand. Wear boots and long pants if walking in an area that may have snakes.
The Thai Red Cross produces antivenom for many of the poisonous snakes in Thailand.
Sunburn
Even on a cloudy day, sunburn can occur rapidly. Use a strong sunscreen (at least factor 30+), making sure to reapply after a swim, and always wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses outdoors. If you become sunburnt stay out of the sun until you have recovered, apply cool compresses and take painkillers for the discomfort. One-percent hydrocortisone cream applied twice daily is also helpful.
Tap Water
Although it’s deemed potable by the authorities, the Thais don’t drink the tap water, and neither should you. Stick to bottled or filtered water during your stay.
Children’s Health
Consult a doctor who specialises in travel medicine prior to travel to ensure your child is appropriately prepared. A medical kit designed specifically for children includes liquid medicines for children who cannot swallow tables. Azithromycin is an ideal paediatric formula used to treat bacterial diarrhoea, as well as ear, chest and throat infections.
Good resources include Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children and, for those spending longer away, Jane Wilson-Howarth’s Your Child’s Health Abroad.
Women’s Health
oIn 2016, the Zika virus was confirmed in Thailand, and two cases of birth defects related to the virus were reported. Check the International Association for Medical Assistance for Travellers (www.iamat.org) website for updates on the situation.
oSanitary products are readily available in Thailand’s urban areas.
oBring adequate supplies of your personal birth-control option, which may not be available.
oHeat, humidity and antibiotics can all contribute to thrush, which can be treated with antifungal creams and Clotrimazole. A practical alternative is one tablet of fluconazole (Diflucan).
oUrinary-tract infections can be precipitated by dehydration or long bus journeys without toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics for treatment.
aInsurance
A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a good idea. Be sure that your policy covers ambulances or an emergency flight home. Some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’, which can include scuba diving, motorcycling and even trekking. A locally acquired motorcycle licence is not valid under some policies. You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later, make sure you keep all documentation.
Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online any time – even if you’re already on the road.
IInternet Access
Wi-fi is almost standard in hotels, guesthouses and cafes. Signal strength deteriorates in the upper floors of a multistorey building; request a room near a router if wi-fi is essential. Cellular data networks continue to expand and increase in capability.
HLegal Matters
In general Thai police don’t hassle foreigners, especially tourists. They usually go out of their way to avoid having to speak English with a foreigner, especially regarding minor traffic issues. Thai police do, however, rigidly enforce laws against drug possession. Do be aware that some police divisions, especially on the Thai islands, might view foreigners and their legal infractions as a money-making opportunity.
If you are arrested for any offence, the police will allow you the opportunity to make a phone call, either to your embassy or consulate in Thailand if you have one, or to a friend or relative if not. There’s a whole set of legal codes governing the length of time and the manner in which you can be detained before being charged or put on trial, but a lot of discretion is left to the police. In the case of foreigners the police are more likely to bend these codes in your favour. However, as with police worldwide, if you don’t show respect you will make matters worse.
Thai law does not presume an indicted detainee to be either guilty or innocent but rather a ‘suspect’, whose guilt or innocence will be decided in court. Trials are usually speedy.
The tourist police (%24hr 1155) can be very helpful in cases of arrest. Although they typically have no jurisdiction over the kinds of cases handled by regular cops, they may be able to help with translations or with contacting your embassy. You can call the hotline to lodge complaints or to request assistance with regards to personal safety.
tLGBTIQ Travellers
Thai culture is relatively tolerant of both male and female homosexuality. There is a fairly prominent LGBTIQ scene in Bangkok, Pattaya and Phuket. With regard to dress or mannerism, the LGBTIQ community are generally accepted without comment. However, public displays of affection – whether heterosexual or homo-sexual – are frowned upon.
It’s worth noting that, perhaps because Thailand is still a relatively conservative place, lesbians generally adhere to rather strict gender roles. Overtly ‘butch’ lesbians, called tom (from ‘tomboy’), typically have short hair, and wear men’s clothing. Femme lesbians refer to themselves as dêe (from ‘lady’). Visiting lesbians who don’t fit into one of these categories may find themselves met with confusion.
Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com) posts lots of Thailand information for LGBTIQ travellers and publishes a gay guidebook to the kingdom.
aMoney
Most places in Thailand deal only with cash. Some foreign credit cards are accepted in high-end establishments.
ATMs
Debit and ATM cards issued by a bank in your own country can be used at ATMs around Thailand to withdraw cash (in Thai baht only) directly from your account back home. ATMs are extremely ubiquitous throughout the country and can be relied on for the bulk of your spending cash. Most ATMs allow a max of 20,000B in withdrawals per day.
The downside is that Thai ATMs charge a 200B foreign-transaction fee on top of whatever currency conversion and out-of-network fees your home bank charges. Before leaving home, shop around for a bank account that has free international ATM usage and reimburses fees incurred at other institutions’ ATMs.
Changing Money
Banks or private money changers offer the best foreign-exchange rates. When buying baht, US dollars is the most accepted currency, followed by British pounds and euros. Most banks charge a commission and duty for each travellers cheque cashed. Current exchange rates are posted at exchange counters.
Credit & Debit Cards
Credit and debit cards can be used for purchases at some shops, hotels and restaurants. The most commonly accepted cards are Visa and MasterCard. American Express is typically only accepted at high-end hotels and restaurants.
Contact your bank and your credit-card provider before you leave home and notify them of your upcoming trip so that your accounts aren’t suspended due to suspicious overseas activity.
Tipping
Tipping is not generally expected in Thailand, though it is appreciated. The exception is loose change from a large restaurant bill – if a meal costs 488B and you pay with a 500B note, some Thais will leave the change. It’s a way of saying ‘I’m not so money grubbing as to grab every last baht’. At many hotel restaurants and upmarket eateries, a 10% service charge will be added to your bill.
JOpening Hours
Banks and government offices close for national holidays. Some bars and clubs close during elections and certain religious holidays when alcohol sales are banned. Shopping centres have banks that open late.
Banks 8.30am to 4.30pm; 24hr ATMs
Bars 6pm to midnight or 1am
Clubs 8pm to 2am
Government Offices 8.30am to 4.30pm Monday to Friday; some close for lunch
Restaurants 8am to 10pm
Shops 10am to 7pm
APhotography
Be considerate when taking photographs of locals. Learn how to ask politely in Thai and wait for an embarrassed nod. In some of the regularly visited hill-tribe areas, be prepared for the photographed subject to ask for money in exchange for a picture. Other hill tribes will not allow you to point a camera at them.
wPublic Holidays
Government offices and banks close their doors on the following public holidays. For the precise dates of lunar holidays, see Events & Festivals on the Tourism Authority of Thailand (www.tourismthailand.org/Events-and-Festivals) website.
1 January New Year’s Day
February (date varies) Makha Bucha; Buddhist holy day
6 April Chakri Day; commemorating the founder of the Chakri dynasty, Rama I
13–15 April Songkran Festival
1 May Labour Day
5 May Coronation Day
May/June (date varies) Visakha Bucha; Buddhist holy day
28 July King Maha Vajiralongkorn’s Birthday
July/August (date varies) Asanha Bucha; Buddhist holy day
12 August Queen Sirikit’s Birthday/Mother’s Day
23 October Chulalongkorn Day
5 December Commemoration of Late King Bhumiphol/Father’s Day
10 December Constitution Day
31 December New Year’s Eve
LSafe Travel
The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot spots.
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)
British Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)
Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs (http://www.fait-maeci.gc.ca)
New Zealand Foreign Affairs & Trade (www.safetravel.govt.nz)
US State Department (www.travel.state.gov/traveladvisories)
KTelephone
The telephone country code for Thailand is %66 and is used when calling the country from abroad. All Thai telephone numbers are preceded by a ‘0’ if you’re dialling domestically (the ‘0’ is omitted when calling from overseas). After the initial ‘0’, the next three numbers represent the provincial area code, which is now integral to the telephone number. If the initial ‘0’ is followed by a ‘6’, an ‘8’ or a ‘9’ then you’re dialling a mobile phone.
International Calls
If you want to call an international number from a telephone in Thailand, you must first dial an international access code plus the country code followed by the subscriber number.
In Thailand there are various international access codes charging different rates per minute. The standard direct-dial prefix is %001; it is operated by CAT and is considered to have the best sound quality. It connects to the largest number of countries, but it is also the most expensive. The next best is %007, a prefix operated by TOT with reliable quality and slightly cheaper rates. Economy rates are available through different carriers – do an internet search to determine promotion codes.
Mobile Phones
The easiest option is to acquire a mobile (cell) phone equipped with a local SIM card. Buying a prepaid SIM is as simple as finding a 7-Eleven. SIM cards include talk and data packages and you can add more funds with a prepaid reload card.
Important Phone Numbers
| Thailand country code | %66 |
| Bangkok city code | %02 |
| Mobile numbers | %06,%08,%09 |
| Operator-assisted international calls | %100 |
| Free local directory assistance | %1133 |
WTime
Thailand is seven hours ahead of GMT/UTC (London). Times are often expressed according to the 24-hour clock.
GToilets
The Asian-style squat toilet is increasingly less the norm in Thailand. There are still specimens in rural areas, provincial bus stations, older homes and modest restaurants, but Western-style toilets are becoming more prevalent and appear wherever foreign tourists are found.
If you encounter a squat, here’s what you should know. You should straddle the two foot pads and face the door. To flush use the plastic bowl to scoop water out of the adjacent basin and pour into the toilet bowl. Some places supply a small pack of toilet paper at the entrance (5B), otherwise bring your own stash or wipe the old-fashioned way with water.
Even in places where sit-down toilets are installed, the septic system may not be designed to take toilet paper. In such cases there will be a waste basket where you’re supposed to place used toilet paper and feminine hygiene products. Some toilets also come with a small spray hose – Thailand’s version of the bidet.
CTourist Information
The government-operated tourist information and promotion service, Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; %1672; www.tourismthailand.org), was founded in 1960 and produces excellent pamphlets on sightseeing. The TAT head office is in Bangkok and there are 35 regional offices throughout the country; check the website for contact information.
MTravellers with Disabilities
Thailand presents one large, ongoing obstacle course for the mobility impaired. With high kerbs, uneven footpaths and nonstop traffic, Thai cities can be particularly difficult. In Bangkok many streets must be crossed on pedestrian bridges flanked by steep stairways, while buses and boats don’t stop long enough even for the fully mobile. Rarely are there any ramps or other access points for wheelchairs.
A number of more expensive top-end hotels make consistent design efforts to provide disabled access to their properties. Other deluxe hotels with high employee-to-guest ratios are usually good about accommodating the mobility impaired by providing staff help where building design fails. For the rest, you’re pretty much left to your own resources.
Download Lonely Planet’s free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel. Alternatively, some organisations and publications that offer tips on international travel include the following:
Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com)
Asia Pacific Development Centre on Disability (www.apcdfoundation.org)
Mobility International USA (www.miusa.org)
Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (www.sath.org)
Wheelchair Holidays @ Thailand (www.wheelchairtours.com)
EVisas
Thailand has visa-exemption and visa-on-arrival agreements with most nations (including European countries, Australia, New Zealand and the USA). Nationals from these countries can enter Thailand at no charge without pre-arranged documentation. Depending on nationality, these citizens are issued a 14- to 90-day visa exemption. Note that for some nationalities, less time (15 days rather than 30 days) is given if arriving by land rather than air. Check the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (%02 203 5000; www.mfa.go.th) website for more details.
Without proof of an onward ticket and sufficient funds for your projected stay, you can be denied entry, but in practice this is a formality that is rarely checked.
OWomen Travellers
Women travellers face relatively few problems in Thailand. It is respectful to cover up if you’re going deep into rural communities, entering temples or going to and from the beach. But on the whole, local women dress in a variety of different styles (particularly in cities), so you can usually wear spaghetti strap tops and short skirts without offending Thais’ modesty streak.
As in most countries, attacks and rapes do occur, especially when an attacker observes a vulnerable target. If you return home from a bar alone, be sure to have your wits about you. Avoid accepting rides from strangers late at night. Some women may prefer to avoid travelling around isolated areas alone.
Keep Thai etiquette in mind during social interactions. A Thai man could feel a loss of face if conversation, flirting or other attention is directed towards him and then diverted to another person. In extreme cases (or where alcohol is involved), this could create an unpleasant situation or even lead to violence. Women who aren’t interested in romantic encounters should not presume that Thai men have merely platonic motives.
Transport
(Getting There & Away
Flights and tours can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
Air
Airports with international connections include the following:
Suvarnabhumi International Airport (%02 132 1888; www.suvarnabhumiairport.com) The country’s main air terminal is located in Samut Prakan, 30km east of Bangkok and 110km from Pattaya. The airport’s name is pronounced sù·wan·ná·poom.
Don Mueang International Airport (%02 535 2111; www.donmueangairportthai.com) Located 25km north of central Bangkok, Don Mueang was retired from service in 2006 only to reopen later as the city’s de facto budget and domestic hub.
Phuket International Airport (%076 632 7230; www.phuketairportthai.com) With several domestic and international destinations.
Chiang Mai International Airport (%05 327 0222; www.chiangmaiairportthai.com) International destinations include many Asian and Southeast Asian cities.
Chiang Rai International Airport (Mae Fah Luang International Airport; %053 798 000; www.chiangraiairportthai.com) International destinations include Kunming, China.
Samui International Airport (www.samuiairportonline.com) International destinations include Singapore.
Krabi International Airport International destinations include Doha, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and a few cities in China.
Land
Thailand shares land borders with Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia and Myanmar. Land travel between all of these countries can be done at sanctioned border crossings. With improved highways and new bridges, it is also easier to travel from Thailand to China via Laos.
Climate Change & Travel
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
PGetting Around
Air
Hopping around the country by air continues to be affordable. Most routes originate from Bangkok (both Don Mueang and Suvarnabhumi International Airports), but Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Ko Samui, Phuket and Udon Thani all have a few routes to other Thai towns.
Bicycle
Lack of infrastructure and dangerous roads mean that cycling isn’t generally recommended as a means of transport for the casual tourist. Exceptions are the guided bicycle tours of Bangkok and some other large cities that stick to rural routes.
Boat
The true Thai water transport is the reu·a hăhng yow (long-tail boat), so-called because the propeller is mounted at the end of a long driveshaft extending from the engine. The long-tail boats are a staple of transport on rivers and canals in Bangkok and neighbouring provinces, and between islands.
Between the mainland and small, less-touristed islands, the standard craft is a wooden boat, 8m to 10m long, with an inboard engine, a wheelhouse and a simple roof to shelter passengers and cargo. To more popular destinations, faster hovercraft (jetfoils) and speedboats are the norm.
Bus
The bus network in Thailand is prolific and reliable. The Thai government subsidises the Transport Company (bò·rí·sàt kŏn sòng), usually abbreviated to Baw Khaw Saw (BKS). Every city and town in Thailand linked by bus has a BKS station, even if it’s just a patch of dirt by the side of the road.
By far the most reliable bus companies in Thailand are the ones that operate out of the BKS stations. In some cases the companies are entirely state owned; in others they are private concessions.
We do not recommend using bus companies that operate directly out of tourist centres, such as Bangkok’s Th Khao San, because of repeated instances of theft and commission-seeking stops. Be sure to be aware of bus scams and other common problems.
For an increasing number of destinations, minivans are superseding buses. Minivans are run by private companies and because their vehicles are smaller, they can depart from the market (instead of the out-of-town bus stations) and in some cases will deliver passengers directly to their hotel. Just don’t sit in the front – that way you can avoid watching the driver’s daredevil techniques!
Car & Motorcycle
Hire
Cars, 4WDs and vans can be hired in most major cities and airports from local companies as well as all the usual international chains. Local companies tend to have cheaper rates, but the quality of their fleets vary. Check the tyre tread and general upkeep of the vehicle before committing.
Motorcycles can be hired in major towns and tourist centres from guesthouses and small mom-and-pop businesses. Hiring a motorcycle in Thailand is relatively easy and a great way to independently tour the countryside. For daily hires most businesses will ask that you leave your passport as a deposit. Before hiring a motorcycle, check the vehicle’s condition and ask for a helmet (which is required by law).
Road Rules & Hazards
Thais drive on the left-hand side of the road – most of the time! Other than that, just about anything goes, in spite of road signs and speed limits.
The main rule to be aware of is that right of way goes to the bigger vehicle – this is not what it says in the Thai traffic laws, but it’s the reality. Maximum speed limits are 50km/h on urban roads and 80km/h to 100km/h on most highways – but on any given stretch of highway you’ll see various vehicles travelling as slowly as 30km/h and as fast as 150km/h.
Indicators are often used to warn passing drivers about oncoming traffic. A flashing left indicator means it’s OK to pass, while a right indicator means that someone’s approaching from the other direction. Horns are used to tell other vehicles that the driver plans to pass. When drivers flash their lights, they’re telling you not to pass.
In Bangkok traffic is chaotic, roads are poorly signposted and motorcycles and random contraflows mean you can suddenly find yourself facing a wall of cars coming the other way.
Outside of the capital, the principal hazard when driving in Thailand, besides the general disregard for traffic laws, is having to contend with so many different types of vehicles on the same road – trucks, bicycles, túk-túk and motorcycles. This danger is often compounded by the lack of working lights. In village areas the vehicular traffic is lighter but you have to contend with stray chickens, dogs and water buffaloes.
Insurance
Thailand requires a minimum of liability insurance for all registered vehicles on the road. The better hire companies include comprehensive coverage for their vehicles. Always verify that a vehicle is insured for liability before signing a rental contract; you should also ask to see the dated insurance documents. If you have an accident while driving an uninsured vehicle, you’re in for some major hassles.
Local Transport
City Bus & Sŏrng·tăa·ou
Bangkok has the largest city-bus system in the country, while Udon Thani and a few other provincial capitals have some city-bus services. The etiquette for riding public buses is to wait at a bus stop and hail the vehicle by waving your hand palm-side downward. You typically pay the fare once you’ve taken a seat or, in some cases, when you disembark.
Elsewhere, public transport is provided by sŏrng·tăa·ou (‘two rows’; a small pick-up truck outfitted with two facing benches for passengers). They sometimes operate on fixed routes, just like buses, but they may also run a shared taxi service where they pick up passengers going in the same general direction. In tourist centres, sŏrng·tăa·ou can be chartered just like a regular taxi, but you’ll need to negotiate the fare beforehand. You can usually hail a sŏrng·tăa·ou anywhere along its route and pay the fare when you disembark.
Depending on the region, sŏrng·tăa·ou might also run a fixed route from the centre of town to outlying areas, or even points within the provinces.
Mass Transit
Bangkok is the only city in Thailand to have an above-ground (BTS) and underground light-rail (MRT) public transport system.
Taxi
Bangkok has the most formal system of metered taxis, although other cities have growing ‘taxi meter’ networks. In some cases, fares are set in advance or require negotiation.
In bigger cities, traditional taxi alternatives and app-based taxi hailing initiatives are also available – at least, sort of.
Introduced to Thailand in 2014, Uber (www.uber.com) quickly gained popularity among those looking to avoid the usual Bangkok taxi headaches: communication issues, perpetual lack of change and inability to get a taxi during peak periods. Later that year, however, the service was banned because drivers and the payment system didn’t meet government standards. It continues to operate, although less visibly.
Other app-based services include GrabTaxi (www.grabtaxi.com/th), All Thai Taxi (www.allthaitaxi.com) and Easy Taxi (www.easytaxi.com).
Dangerous Roads
Thailand’s roads are dangerous: in 2015 the World Health Organization declared Thailand the second-deadliest country for road fatalities in the world. Several high-profile bus accidents involving foreign tourists have prompted some Western nations to issue travel advisories for highway safety due to disregard for speed limits, reckless driving and long-distance bus drivers’ use of stimulants.
Fatal bus crashes make headlines, but nearly 75% of vehicle accidents in Thailand involve motorcycles. Less than half of the motorcyclists in the country wear helmets and many tourists are injured riding motorcycles because they don’t know how to handle the vehicles and are unfamiliar with local driving conventions. British consular offices cited Thailand as a primary destination for UK citizens experiencing road-traffic accidents, often involving motorcyclists.
If you are a novice motorcyclist, familiarise yourself with the vehicle in an uncongested area of town and stick to the smaller 100cc automatic bikes. Drive slowly, especially when roads are slick or when there is loose gravel. Remember to distribute weight as evenly as possible across the frame of the bike to improve handling. And don’t expect that other vehicles will look out for you: motorcycles are low on the traffic totem pole.
Motorcycle Taxi
Many cities in Thailand have mor·đeu·sai ráp jâhng, motorcycle taxis that can be hired for short distances. If you’re empty-handed or travelling with a small bag, they can’t be beaten for transport in a pinch.
In most cities, you’ll find motorcycle taxis clustered near street intersections. Usually they wear numbered jerseys. You’ll need to establish the price beforehand.
Săhm·lór & Túk-túk
Săhm·lór (also spelt sǎamláw) are three-wheeled pedicabs that are typically found in small towns where traffic is light and old-fashioned ways persist.
The modern era’s version of the human-powered săhm·lór is the motorised túk-túk (pronounced đúk dúk). They’re small utility vehicles, powered by screaming engines (usually LPG-powered) with a lot of flash and sparkle.
With either form of transport the fare must be established by bargaining before departure. In tourist centres, túk-túk drivers often grossly overcharge foreigners, so have a sense of how much the fare should be before soliciting a ride. Hotel staff are helpful in providing reasonable fare suggestions.
Readers interested in pedicab lore and design may want to have a look at Lonely Planet’s Chasing Rickshaws by Lonely Planet founder Tony Wheeler.
Train
Thailand’s train system connects the four corners of the country and is a scenic, if slow, alternative to buses for the long journey north to Chiang Mai or south to Surat Thani. The train is also ideal for short trips to Ayuthaya and Lopburi from Bangkok, where traffic is a consideration.
The 4500km rail network is operated by the State Railway of Thailand (SRT; % 1690; www.railway.co.th) and covers four main lines: northern, southern, northeastern and eastern. All long-distance trains originate from Bangkok’s Hualamphong Train Station.
Most train stations have printed timetables in English, though this isn’t always the case for smaller stations.
Classes
The SRT operates passenger trains in three classes – 1st, 2nd and 3rd – but each class varies considerably depending on whether you’re on an ordinary, rapid or express train. In 2016, SRT announced the purchase of 115 modern train carriages with seat-mounted TV screens and more comfortable bathrooms, currently in use on the northern and northeastern routes.
1st class Private, two-bunk cabins define the 1st-class carriages, which are available only on rapid, express and special-express trains.
2nd class The seating arrangements in a 2nd-class, non-sleeper carriage are similar to those on a bus, with pairs of padded seats, usually recliners, all facing towards the front of the train. On 2nd-class sleeper cars, pairs of seats face one another and convert into two fold-down berths. The lower berth has more headroom than the upper berth and this is reflected in a higher fare. Children are always assigned a lower berth. Second-class carriages are found only on rapid and express trains. There are air-con and fan 2nd-class carriages.
3rd class A typical 3rd-class carriage consists of two rows of bench seats divided into facing pairs. Each bench seat is designed to seat two or three passengers, but on a crowded rural line nobody seems to care. Express trains do not carry 3rd-class carriages at all. Commuter trains in the Bangkok area are all 3rd class.
Costs
Fares are determined on a base price with surcharges added for distance, class and train type (special express, express, rapid, ordinary). Extra charges are added if the carriage has air-con and for sleeping berths (either upper or lower).
Reservations
Advance bookings can be made from one to 60 days before your intended date of departure. You can make bookings in person from any train station. Train tickets can also be purchased at travel agencies, which usually add a service charge to the ticket price. If you’re making an advance reservation from outside the country, contact a licensed travel agent; the SRT previously had an online ticket service but that has been discontinued.
It is advisable to make advanced bookings for long-distance sleeper trains between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, or from Bangkok to Surat Thani, as seats fill up quickly.
For short-distance trips you should purchase your ticket at least a day in advance for seats (rather than sleepers).
Partial refunds on tickets are available depending on the number of days prior to your departure that you arrange a cancellation. These arrangements can be handled at the train station booking office.