All pâtés, whether en croûte or en terrine, as a galantine or even a hot ballotine, benefit from a condiment or sauce.
Granted, some pâtés are so interesting, so rich in interior garnishes with varying flavors, colors, and textures, that you almost don’t need a sauce. But generally, a pâté can be improved with a condiment or sauce, and rillettes can be enhanced with a really good mustard.
All dishes—everything we eat, really—are a combination of flavors and effects on the tongue (sweet, sour, salty, fatty, lean, umami, bitter), and often the dishes we like best are not necessarily those with the “best” flavor but those that possess the most interesting contrasts. That’s why we find, say, Thai and Vietnamese food so interesting, because of the dramatic contrasts between sweet and sour and spicy, the sharp acidity of lime paired with salty-umami fish sauce. In our experience, cooks rarely go too far with the contrasts, but rather don’t go far enough. When you’re tasting, try to go too far with the acid and pull yourself back so you understand where the boundaries are.
Some condiments are so good they can make the dish (see the Dried Tart Cherry Marmalade, page 231). And given that many of the recipes in this book are meant to be served as a first course, you really want to captivate your audience from the get-go, so put a little effort into your sauces and condiments.
The following condiments fall into a variety of categories. Thick, chutney-like condiments, mustards, a vegetable puree, an all-purpose vinaigrette that can be thought of as a base, pickles, and one curio, the salt-cured egg yolk. The one category that’s not common in the charcutier’s kitchen is a mayonnaise-based condiment, because these preparations are so rich we don’t need to pair them with a heavy, fat-based sauce, though a sweet-sour Sauce Gribiche (page 230) is rich but also goes well with pork. Vegetable and seafood terrines, which are relatively lean, can support such a condiment, like our Avocado and Herb Aioli (page 230).
It’s important to have a mustard, a vinaigrette, mayonnaise, a chutney, and a pickle in your rotation; once you have a good grasp of the basics, you can vary them intuitively.
Whole-Grain Mustard
Mustard is one of the oldest condiments—it was used in ancient Rome and had probably been around for much longer. It was probably first made from mustard seeds ground with wine or must. The term mustard combines that word with a word for “hot” or “fiery,” ardent. It’s very easy to make your own, though it requires a week or two sitting in the fridge for the flavors to mellow, so plan ahead if you want to serve your own whole-grain mustard. It’s a pleasure to make at a time when we think only of condiments that come in jars or plastic squeeze bottles. The three most common mustard seeds are yellow, which are the mildest, then brown and black, which pack more heat. Use a good craft pale ale here for the best flavor.
½ cup/78 grams yellow mustard seeds
½ cup/78 grams brown mustard seeds
½ cup/120 milliliters sherry wine vinegar
½ cup/120 milliliters craft pale ale or other beer
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
3 tablespoons honey
Kosher salt to taste
1. Combine the mustard seeds, vinegar, and beer in a bowl. Stir, cover, and let sit at room temperature until the liquid has been absorbed into the seeds, about 12 hours.
2. Transfer the seeds to a food processor, add the brown sugar, honey, and salt, and pulse five or six times to blend everything together.
3. Transfer the mustard to a clean container, cover, and refrigerate for 10 or 12 days before using; time will allow some of the harshness to mellow. The mustard will keep for several months in the refrigerator.
YIELD: ABOUT 2 CUPS/480 MILLILITERS
Horseradish-Beer Mustard
There are a number of ways to prepare mustard. Make your own using whole seeds (see page 228) or simply add water to Coleman’s ground mustard for a nasal-clearing spread. We think of this as a pub mustard, or a cooked mustard. It is more like a sauce, with a flavorful liquid thickened with egg yolks and seasoned with mustard powder and fresh horseradish.
4 ounces/110 grams grated fresh horseradish
¼ cup/65 grams light brown sugar
6 tablespoons/90 milliliters honey
6 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons Coleman’s ground mustard
1 cup/240 milliliters dark beer
1 cup/240 milliliters malt vinegar
Kosher salt to taste
1. Combine all the ingredients in the top of a double boiler and whisk together. Place over simmering water and whisk continuously until the mixture is thick.
2. Transfer the mustard to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
YIELD: ABOUT 3 CUPS/720 MILLILITERS
Vinaigrette
This is a basic vinaigrette, flavored simply with shallot and mustard, that we intend to be a base for other ingredients that might make it specific to various pâtés. Add diced tomato and cucumber for the Shrimp, Scallop, and Saffron Terrine (page 89), or fresh tarragon for the Lobster Terrine (page 79), or diced dried fruit for any of the pork pâtés. Or add Garlic Confit (page 177) or Roasted Eggplant Caviar (page 236). It’s infinitely variable. A standard vinaigrette is 3 parts oil to 1 part acid, but you can make it more acidic by changing that ratio to 2 to 1.
½ cup/120 milliliters vinegar (red wine, white wine, or champagne)
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon minced shallot
¼ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 to 1½ cups/240 to 360 milliliters vegetable oil and/or extra virgin olive oil
Combine the vinegar, mustard, shallot, salt, and pepper in a bowl and whisk well. Add the oil a few drops at a time while whisking, then add the remaining oil in a steady stream and whisk to emulsify. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
YIELD: 1½ TO 2 CUPS/360 TO 480 MILLILITERS
Avocado and Herb Aioli
This fat-based sauce, further enriched with avocado and flavored with abundant herbs, is the perfect partner for a lean terrine, especially the Lobster Terrine (page 79) or Two-Potato Terrine (page 96). This will keep for a day or so, but it’s best made at the time you want to use it.
2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, lightly smashed
½ teaspoon/3 grams kosher salt
1 ripe avocado, pitted and peeled
½ cup/30 grams chopped fresh soft herbs (such as basil, tarragon, chives, and/or flat-leaf parsley)
2 cups/480 milliliters extra virgin olive oil
1. Combine the egg yolks, lemon juice, vinegar, garlic, and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the avocado and herbs and pulse until combined.
2. With the processor running, add the oil in a thin stream to create a thick sauce.
YIELD: ABOUT 2 CUPS/480 MILLILITERS
Sauce Gribiche
This sauce, a gussied-up tartar sauce, is traditionally served with pork and will go beautifully with just about any of the pâtés. We especially recommend it for the pig’s head preparations. It is best served on the day it’s made.
3 large hard-cooked eggs
1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
Kosher salt to taste
¾ cup/180 milliliters vegetable oil
1 tablespoon capers
3 tablespoons chopped cornichons
1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Separate the egg yolks from the whites. Press the yolks through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl. Add the mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar. Season with salt.
2. Whisking continuously, add the oil, drop by drop at first and then in a steady stream, until all the oil is incorporated in a thick emulsion.
3. Finely dice the egg whites and fold them into the sauce, along with the remaining ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more lemon juice and/or salt and pepper as necessary.
YIELD 1 CUP/240 MILLILITERS
Dried Tart Cherry Marmalade
This condiment was born out of Brian’s Michigan heritage: tart cherries, one of the agricultural treasures of the Midwest. These bright red beauties, like other tart fruits and vegetables (rhubarb, Key limes), are beautifully suited not only to desserts but to condiments as well. Tart cherries, water, and a little sugar, so that the balance remains on the tart side, are all you really need. But Brian has put together a counterintuitive mixture of flavors, including honey, soy, garlic, and Tabasco, along with the crunch of almonds, to create a complex and beguiling condiment.
10 ounces/280 grams dried tart cherries
1½ cups/360 milliliters apple cider
½ cup/120 milliliters honey
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 drops Tabasco
Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon minced garlic
4 ounces/110 grams sliced almonds, toasted
1. Combine all the ingredients except the almonds in a thick-bottomed, nonreactive pot with straight sides. Bring to a simmer slowly and cook until thick and syrupy, 20 to 30 minutes.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and allow it to cool, then fold in the almonds.
3. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.
YIELD: ABOUT 2 CUPS/480 MILLILITERS
Onion Marmalade
This is a great make-ahead condiment to serve with just about any of the pâtés in this book or, really, anything fatty. It’s an argument that supports Brian’s belief that the onion should be thought of as a seasoning rather than a vegetable. While all onions will lose their harsh, acidic qualities to cooking and leave only sweetness, we still prefer naturally sweet onions such as Vidalia or Walla Walla (which are often less expensive than ordinary Spanish or yellow onions).
This preparation owes some of its jam-like consistency to pectin, a starch found in certain fruits that is used as a thickener. Pectin is usually found with the canning supplies at the grocery store.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 pound/450 grams sweet onions, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 cups/480 milliliters orange juice
½ cup/120 milliliters honey
Juice of 1 lemon
1½ teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
½ teaspoon pectin
1. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until they soften but before they begin to brown. Season them with salt and pepper. Add the orange juice and honey. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat so that the liquid simmers gently.
2. Add the lemon juice and thyme leaves and cook until the liquid has reduced to a few tablespoons.
3. Strain the liquid into a small dish. Sprinkle the pectin over the liquid and stir until it dissolves, then drizzle the liquid over the onions. Stir to ensure that the pectin is dissolved and evenly distributed.
4. Transfer the onions to a container, cover, and refrigerate until completely chilled and thickened. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
YIELD: 1½ CUPS/360 MILLILITERS
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Dried Tart Cherry Marmalade (page 231); Mango, Ginger, and Jalapeño Chutney (page 234); Onion Marmalade (page 232); Horseradish-Beer Mustard (page 229); Whole-Grain Mustard (page 228); Roasted Eggplant Caviar (page 236)
Mango, Ginger, and Jalapeño Chutney
This is a dynamic mixture worth having on hand, one of those condiments that can make a dish. It enlivens a pork pâté in a way that goes beyond mustard and pickles. There are a lot of ingredients, but they are simply combined in a pan and cooked until the chutney thickens.
3 mangos, pitted, peeled, and diced small (you should get about 1½ pounds/680 grams mango flesh)
3 ounces/85 grams golden raisins
2 ounces/60 grams minced jalapeño (seeds included if you like it spicy)
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 cup/200 grams light brown sugar
1 cup/240 milliliters champagne vinegar
1 cinnamon stick
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon/3 grams kosher salt
Pinch ground allspice
1. Combine all the ingredients in a thick-bottomed, nonreactive pan and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cook until thick and syrupy, 20 to 30 minutes.
2. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
YIELD: ABOUT 3 CUPS/720 MILLILITERS
Pickled Ramps
When you’re a cook raised in the Great Lakes region, the ramp is its own season. This wild leek begins to appear with the first breath of spring, so we associate it with light and hopefulness. Harvest them yourself or find them at farmers’ markets.
Chefs are always looking for new ways to use ramps because they are so abundant in April and May. But here we use an old method, one that preserves the ramp so that we can make use of it in all its abundance. Once they’re pickled, we can enjoy them throughout the summer and well into the fall. Pickled ramps make an outstanding condiment for just about every pâté, but especially those made with meat. (And if spring is late in your part of the world, this recipe works great with scallions.)
1 pound/450 grams ramps
¾ cup/180 milliliters water
½ cup/120 milliliters white wine vinegar
½ cup/130 grams sugar
1 tablespoon/15 grams kosher salt
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon caraway seeds
1 bay leaf
1. Wash the ramps and trim the green leaves to about 1 inch/2.5 centimeters up from the white part. (The green leaves are edible; mince them and add to scrambled eggs, or use in stock.) Trim the root end as you would a scallion.
2. Bring a pot of salted water to a rapid boil and prepare an ice bath. Add the ramps to the boiling water and blanch till just tender, a minute or two. Drain and shock in the ice bath. Pat the ramps dry and place in a heat-safe container that has a tight-fitting lid.
3. Combine the remaining ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook for a few minutes, then pour the hot mixture over the ramps, cover, and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.
YIELD: 1 POUND/450 GRAMS
Roasted Eggplant Caviar
For this all-purpose condiment, we first char the eggplant over flames and then roast it to further develop the flavor. It works well as a sauce on pizza, a base for a canapé or crostini, or a dip with crackers or crusty bread, or it can be added to Vinaigrette (page 229) to lend an earthy flavor to salads.
2 large eggplants (about 3 pounds/1.5 kilograms total)
½ cup/120 milliliters extra virgin olive oil
½ cup/70 grams minced onion
1 cup/240 milliliters peeled, seeded, and chopped plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F/175°C.
2. On a gas grill or open flame on a stove, char the skin of the eggplants all over.
3. Use 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to grease a rimmed baking sheet. Place the eggplants on the sheet and roast until very soft, 30 or 40 minutes. When the eggplants are cool enough to handle, peel and seed them.
4. Place the eggplant pulp in the bowl of a food processor and add the remaining ingredients. Puree until smooth, a minute or so. This will keep for a week in the refrigerator.
YIELD: ABOUT 3 CUPS/720 MILLILITERS
Salt-Cured Egg Yolks
This is just plain fun, to transform the common egg yolk from a fluid encased in a fine membrane into a solid using salt rather than heat. Once cured, these yolks can be grated over just about anything for added color and flavor—pasta, salads, soups, even hard cheeses. And they’re especially good grated over any of the seafood pâtés and rillettes. You can cure the egg yolks with salt alone, you can mellow the salt by mixing in a half part sugar, or, as we do here, you can add spicy seasonings to the salt to impart to the yolks.
Note that you must remove the chalazae, the white cords that keep the yolk suspended in the albumen, or the yolks may not solidify. Try to use the freshest eggs possible—the vitelline membrane surrounding the yolk must be intact, of course, and will be sturdier in fresher eggs.
1½ pounds/680 grams kosher salt
6 tablespoons/40 grams freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons red pepper flakes
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh thyme
10 large egg yolks
1. In a bowl, combine the salt, black pepper, red pepper flakes, and thyme leaves. Pour a layer of the mixture about ¾ inch/2 centimeters deep into a 12-by-6-inch/30-by-15-centimeter pan or baking dish, or any nonreactive container that will hold the yolks, such as a pie plate. Make 10 indentations in the salt layer.
2. Carefully crack each egg and place one yolk in each indentation. (Reserve the whites for another use.) Carefully cover the yolks with the remaining salt mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 5 days.
3. Remove the yolks from the salt, brush off the excess, and store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
YIELD: 10 CURED YOLKS